ProSeal Instructions for Minolta Hi-Matic F Rangefinder
Please read these instructions completely before you start. Knowledge builds confidence, and like most jobs, this is better done right the first time. I think youll find it rewarding and fun, and Ive tried to keep things as easy and logical as possible. Youre working on one of Minoltas finest small rangefinders, and the job youre doing now is very important in repairing one of its most common problems. You have been given these instructions as a free gift from one of my light seal kits, or for some other reason, and for that reason I think you already have studied my basic light seal replacement instructions. Here are some things you may need: (1) a safe surface to work onI like to use a piece of cardboard about 1.5 by 1.5, but you can work on fiberboard, newspaper or anything else handy--the important thing is to protect the surface beneath you. (2) Solvent--Naphtha (cigarette lighter fluid is the same thing) or denatured alcohol are my favorites. (3) a paper towel or two. (4) some toothpicks or your bamboo toolif you have access to a wooden cuticle stick, this is a handy tool. (5) a safety razor blade, hobby knife, or small scissors. (6) a small screwdriver (7) a pair of tweezers. Now, let's take a look inside your camera: Beneath the top plate, you will see a long thin rail slot. There is a corresponding slot at the bottom. In the top slot, you will see the frame counter reset lever about 1 inch from the right side. There will be a seal at the hinge end, too. It may be on the door or on the camera body. Well replace it on the film door. On the top side of the film door, there is a small seal leading from the hinge edge past the film frame reset lever on the bottom side of the flange. There is no latch end seal. You may see black residue on the camera body and the film door edges. Use your small screwdriver as a dropper to carefully drop solvent where you need it. I normally use enough to saturate it, but not to the point of dripping. An old plastic bottle (like a contact lens cleaner bottle) makes a good solvent dropper, too. The procedure is to let it sit a few minutes, and then begin scraping it off. You may use a toothpick with the end broken off, your bamboo tool, a wooden cuticle stick, or you may use the tip of your small screwdriver. Work carefully and try not to scratch the painted surface. Your work will go better if you are patient and give the naphtha time to dissolve and loosen the old adhesive. IMPORTANT NOTE: Observe the precautions on the solvent can. Work in a well-ventilated area and avoid too much skin contact or contact with eyes, and dont drink it. SECONDARY IMPORTANT NOTE: This camera uses some internal plastic pieces. DO NOT use any solvent such as Acetone or MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) to clean up your old seal material. These are NOT safe on plastics. Now were going to clean out the rail slots on the camera body and replace those seals. Heres how: First, run a toothpick with the end broken off or the narrow end of your bamboo tool through the slot to remove the gunk. Repeat if needed, working away from the frame counter reset lever (as shown). Dont push old seal material into the frame counter reset area. Then run a small piece of paper towel with a little naphtha on it through the slot to finish cleaning it.
When you have the slots clean, take a long 2mm piece of seal material from your kit and press it into the slot using your fingertip. Start at the hinge end and work toward the frame counter reset lever (but dont cover it or go underneath it). Dont let the seal material turn or twist and press it into the slot with the thin end of the little bamboo tool, as below.
Dont worry that there is no adhesive. With this seal you dont need it. I designed it so the pressure of the seal material against the channel walls will keep it in place perfectly and provide a full-channel and completely effective light baffle. When you reach the end, use a razor blade, small knife or tiny scissors to trim the excess so the strip will finish at end of the rail slot. Repeat this procedure for the part of the slot starting at the film frame reset and extending to the hinge enduse the piece of 2mm material you just trimmed off for this. Repeat for the lower slot. Now, with a blunted toothpick or the thin tip of your bamboo tool, trace the seals length, pressing it gently down into its slot to seat it. Dont poke into it or damage it. Then, close your door. It is normal to feel resistance from your new seal material. Dont worry unless the resistance seems excessive. If you encounter too much resistance, make sure you got your seal material neatly tucked into the ends at both rail slot end. Now, lets remove and clean the hinge end seal. Left: drop some solvent on the old seal. Let it soak a minute or so-dont forget the seal piece at the top of the door. Right: scrape the old seal off as shown. Finish cleaning with paper towel & solvent. Cut a piece of 1mm fabric seal or 1mm open-celled foam material to fit and remove the paper backing. In these instructions, Ive chosen the fabric seal. Please note this seal does not reach from end to end on your film door. Here is a view: The seal material starts and stops at the place where the door breaks into the trough on both ends. You can see this clearly in the picture to the left. Lick the adhesive side of the piece before you install itthis will de-activate the adhesive, allowing you time to position it correctly. After about 15 minutes, you can press it down for the final installation. If you happen to install your seal piece crooked, simply drop some solvent on it and let it soak a minute or so. This will free the adhesive, allowing you to re-locate the piece where it should be. Next, we will replace the little strip at the top of the cameras film door.

As mentioned earlier, there is a small piece of seal material at the top of the film door. You should have already removed and cleaned the area using either the narrow end of your bamboo tool or a blunt toothpick and some naphtha on a small piece of paper towel. Replace it, using the small thin self-adhesive piece in your kit. Cut the new piece from 1.5mm open-celled foam or 1.5mm self-adhesive foam, and position it at the edge of the film door. Carefully follow down the contour of the film door as shown. When you have it positioned correctly, press into place using a blunted toothpick or your bamboo tool to gently press it down. Heres a picture of how it should look: Please remember, you can make installing a seal like this much easier if you remember to lick the adhesive side first. This will allow you time to position it properly, and when your saliva has dried (about 15 minutes), you can press the seal down again. When all is finished, be sure to clean the edges of the film door with a piece of paper towel and solvent. There may be old seal residue left on them, and you dont want this to foul your new seals.
Now, close your film door and let your camera sit a few hours or overnight to allow the new seals to get happy with their new surroundings. Your work is finished, and your camera will have a very effective light seal for years to come. Jon Goodman --- 2002 ~~NOTES~~

ProSeal Instructions for Minolta Hi-Matic Rangefinder Series
Please read these instructions completely before you start. Knowledge builds confidence, and like most jobs, this is better done right the first time. I think youll find it rewarding and fun, and Ive tried to keep things as easy and interesting as possible. This is a great rangefinder, and the job youre doing now is very important in repairing one of its most common problems. You have been given these instructions as a free gift for buying one of my light seal kits or for some other reason. I am assuming you have already read my basic light seal replacement instructions. Here are some things you may need: (1) a safe surface to work onI like to use a piece of cardboard about 1.5 by 1.5, but you can work on fiberboard, newspaper or anything else handy--the important thing is to protect the surface beneath you. (2) Solvent--Naphtha (cigarette lighter fluid is the same thing) or denatured alcohol are my favorites. (3) a paper towel or two. (4) some toothpicks or your bamboo toolif you have access to a wooden cuticle stick, this is a handy tool. (5) a safety razor blade, hobby knife, or small scissors. (6) a small screwdriver (7) a pair of tweezers. Now, let's take a look inside your camera: Ill use the model F for an example. The full-sized Hi-Matic is a little different, but not much. Beneath the top plate, you will see a long thin rail slot. There is a corresponding slot at the bottom. In the top slot, you will see the frame counter reset lever (pin) about 1 inch or so from the right side. There will be a seal at the hinge end, too. It may be on the door or it may have been relocated to the camera body. Well replace it on the film door. There is no latch end seal. You may see black residue on the camera body and the film door edges. Use your small screwdriver as a dropper to carefully drop solvent where you need it. I normally use enough to saturate it, but not to the point of dripping. An old plastic bottle (like a contact lens cleaner bottle) makes a good solvent dropper, too. The procedure is to let it sit a few minutes, and then begin scraping it off. You may use a toothpick with the sharp end removed, your bamboo tool from the light seal kit, a wooden cuticle stick, or you may use the tip of your small screwdriver. Work carefully and try not to scratch the painted surface. Your work will go better if you are patient and give the solvent time to dissolve and loosen the old adhesive. IMPORTANT NOTE: Observe the precautions on the solvent can. Work in a well-ventilated area and avoid too much skin contact or contact with eyes, and dont drink it. Now were going to clean out the rail slots on the camera body and replace those seals. Heres how: Place a small bit of paper towel in the slot and push it down with your tool. Next, drip a little solvent onto itenough to wet it, but not to the point of being messy. Use your tool to push it through the slot, cleaning the old goop out. You may need to repeat this three or four times until the slot is nicely clean. Push the old material away from the reset pin, so you dont get old goop under it, then clean the slot on the other side of the pin. Repeat for the lower slot.
When you have the slots clean, take a long 2mm piece of seal material from your kit and press it into the slot using your fingertip. Start at the hinge end and work toward the frame counter reset lever. Dont let the seal material turn or twist and press it into the slot with the thin end of the little bamboo tool, as below. When you get to the film frame reset pin, cut the strip so that it will stop right at the pin, as shown. Start the strip back in the slot on the other side of the pin.
Dont worry that there is no adhesive. With this seal you dont need it. I designed it so the pressure of the seal material against the channel walls will keep it in place perfectly and provide a full-channel and completely effective light baffle. When you reach the end, use a razor blade, small knife or tiny scissors to trim the excess so the strip will tuck under the latch coversee below:
You will repeat this procedure for the seal at the bottom of the camera body. Notice there is a cutout to allow easy removal of the film canister. Simply follow through this cutout with your seal strip, pushing it into place with your bamboo tool or a blunted toothpick. When you reach the end, trim as per above. I normally leave about 3/8 inch of extra material. I will push this extra piece down into the space between the body and the latch plate, as shown in the image to your left.

Now, with a blunted toothpick or the thin tip of your bamboo tool, trace the seals length, pressing it gently down into its slot to seat it. Dont poke into it or damage it.
Now, lets remove and clean the hinge end seal. To the left, I drop some Left: drop some solvent seal solvent on the hinge end on the old seal. Let it soak a and let it soak a minute or so. minute or so-dont the large To the right, I use forget the of the bamboo tool to end seal piece at the top of the door. scrape the old seal material Right: scrape the old (or off. The bamboo toolseal a off as wooden one) will not similar shown. Finish cleaning with paper cameras paint. damage thetowel & solvent. Well want to clean the hinge area really well, as per the image to your left. In this example, the slots have not yet been cleaned. To the right, I use a bit of towel soaked in solvent to clean the film door edges. We dont want them to foul your new seal material. Cut a piece of 1/32 fabric seal material to fit. The dimensions of the piece you will need are 46mm x 8mm wide. Remove the protective backing, and carefully install it. Please note this seal does not reach from end to end on your film door. Here is a view of how it should look: The seal material starts and stops at the place where the door breaks into the trough on both ends. You can see this clearly in the picture to the left. If you happen to install your seal piece crooked, simply drop some solvent on it and let it soak a minute or so. This will free the adhesive, allowing you to re-locate the piece. Be careful not to poke into the seal piece when it is wet with solvent, or you could damage the fabric. Move it gently if you need to do this.
When finished, this is how your new seal material should look. You can see the slots have been re-sealed in this image. Since there is no latch end seal, were finished, and your Hi-Matic is ready to take excellent pictures. Also, because we used a fabric seal at the hinge end and high grade LDPE in the film door slots, it is unlikely you will ever have to worry about light leaks again.
Now, please close your film door and let your camera sit a few hours or overnight to allow the new seals to adjust to their new surroundings.
A little further into the camera we go
Is your rangefinder foggy or not as bright as you wish? Ill show you how to clean it. First, we remove the top plate of the camera:

Jon Goodman --- 2004