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Feature 2007 Kawasaki Jet Skis
16 PWI 20TH ANNIVERSARY DECEMBER 2006
We ride Kawasakis new 250-horsepower four-stroke Ultra 250X and new Ultra LX
BY JOSH BURNS PHOTOS BY HEATHER SELWITZ BRIGLIA/KAWASAKI
he rope-a-dope may be a tactic made famous by Cassius Clay in the ring, but Kawasaki may have just pulled its best Muhammad Ali impression on the PWC industry. For those unfamiliar with the strategy, Ali used the rope-adope against George Foreman in The Rumble in the Jungle fight, allowing Foreman to basically punch himself out of energy, round after round. Ali, who appeared to be on the ropes and in trouble, came back late in the eighth round to deliver a shocking knockout to Foreman, and the term rope-a-dope was coined. Kawasaki has been doing a little rope-a-doping of its own lately. Last year, the company cut down its 2006 lineup to a meager four craft - the smallest lineup in the industry. With few offerings and no new models for 2006, it seemed the Jet Ski manufacturer was on the ropes and possibly in a bit of trouble. But Kawasaki is stepping into 2007 swinging, providing the most powerful watercraft in the industry: the 250-horsepower, supercharged four-stroke Ultra 250X. It is also offering another allnew model in the 160-horsepower Ultra LX. While the engine packages for each craft are different, they both rely on newly designed hull-and-deck platforms that vary greatly from Kawasakis existing STX platforms used on the STX-15F and STX-12F. Though Kawasaki does have two new models for the upcoming year, its really the Ultra 250X that the company bubbles over with excitement when talking about it. If youre wondering if Kawasakis new 250-horspower supercharged four-stroke engine was intended to compete with Sea-Doo 215-horsepower RXT, youre not too far off base. But you get the feeling when speaking with Kawasaki employees that this craft wasnt meant to merely jab with the RXT - it was made to knock it to the canvas. To get a look at the
The 250-horsepower engine of the Jet Ski Ultra 250X relies on the four-cylinder four-stroke engine Kawasaki previously (and currently) uses on its four-stroke-powered STX-15F, though it features some significant changes to produce the extra 90 horsepower the updated engine makes.
rest of Kawasakis lineup, flip to page 22, but otherwise continue on for more on the new Ultras.
Though there are many new elements to the 250-horsepower engine on the Ultra 250X, the powerplant is based on the companys four-cylinder, four-stroke engine that has, up to this point, only been used in Kawasakis STX-15F. For 2007, the naturally aspirated version of this engine will power the Ultra LX model, while a supercharged version of this engine will power the Ultra 250X. The platform features an 83mm bore and a long 69.2mm stroke, which combine for a 1498cc displacement, and it has a claimed 160 horsepower output. The Ultra 250X offers an additional 90 horsepower over the Ultra LX because of a few key components, most notably the supercharger and intercooler. Its no secret to anyone whos followed PWC racing the last few years that Kawasaki-supported racers have been using supercharged versions of the 15F, some producing as much as 380 horsepower! Kawasaki took much of
Its a tight fit once the engine is installed into the hull of the Ultra 250X, but everything is, in fact, in its right place.
DECEMBER 2006 watercraft.com 17
Kawasaki decided upon using a roots-type supercharger for this application and to cool the hot air from the blower, Kawasaki engineers designed an oversized intercooler (shown below) to keep the engine running at its peak.
Kawasaki moved its reverse lever from the right-hand side of the cowling to the left-hand side, and we couldnt be happier!
Kawasaki features fiveposition adjustable handlebars on the new Ultra LX and Ultra 250X, which makes it easy for the operator to find the right bar angle for their height and the conditions.
To compensate for the added air being forced into the engine, Kawasaki installed larger fuel injectors (the green pieces along the fuel rail) on the 250X engine that provides as much as 1.6 times more fuel than the naturally aspirated version of the engine on the Ultra LX.
this information from its racing efforts when it went to work on this motor. Up until this point, a centrifugal supercharger, just as the one Vortech offers for the 15F that is distributed by Riva Racing, has been the choice among most racers and other aftermarket companies. But after extensive testing, Kawasaki decided to go another route, using a roots-type blower instead. Kawasaki felt the benefit with using this type of supercharger is that it provides more power at lower rpm, unlike the centrifugal blowers used on the race craft that provide more boost at higher rpm. Kawasaki was more concerned with providing instant hit with the throttle and a linear power delivery up to top speed.At its peak output, the supercharger provides the engine with a maximum boost of 11.4 psi. To compensate for the added pressure put on the engine as it is force-fed more air via the supercharger, Kawasaki reduced the compression ratio to 7.8:1, as opposed to the 10.6:1 compression ratio of the naturally aspirated version of the engine on the Ultra LX and STX-15F. To keep the engine operating smoothly and reliably, Kawasaki designed an all-new, oversized intercooler to cool the air coming from the supercharger. The super18 PWI 20TH ANNIVERSARY DECEMBER 2006
charger itself gets very hot as it builds up the boost of air that is delivered to the engine, and the water-cooled open-circuit intercooler reduces the temperature before being sent to the engine for maximum performance and reliability. The extra air being sent to the engine via the supercharger does little good if there is not extra fuel to combine with the air as it is sent to the engine, so Kawasaki installed larger, 60mm fuel injectors on the 250X engine that can deliver up to 1.6 times more fuel than the Ultra LX and STX-15F. Kawasaki also decided to fit the Ultras with a much larger fuel tank that holds 20.6 gallons of fuel, which is 3.7 gallons larger than the tanks on the STX models. While this means the high-horsepower Ultra 250X wont need to stop at the fuel dock quite as often for fill-ups, it also means the Ultra LX, which uses the 160-horsepower engine, might just be an ideal touring boat since it can stay on the water arguably longer than most. One important note for the 250X is that, unlike other craft on the market that utilize blowers, it will run on 87-octane gasoline and does not need premium, 91-octane gas. To manage the engine timing, a new
ECU is used on both craft. The ECU not only controls much of the engine timing, but it also controls both of the crafts new security systems, which we will get to a little later in the story.
For both the Ultra 250X and the Ultra LX, Kawasaki went back to the drawing board to redesign a new hull-and-deck platform. It was arguably long overdue since the STX hull has been utilized for a number of years, and fortunately, Kawasaki engineers used the opportunity to address some key issues and make some noticeable upgrades. First off, the hull of the new Ultra is designed to provide a smooth ride, but offer the ability to corner aggressively. The fiberglass-reinforced plastic (FRP) hull is actually 10 inches longer than the previous 122.8-inch STX hull. Aside from being longer, the hull also features Kawasaki Quatro KSD (Kawasaki Splash Deflector), which features one more splash deflector than the STX-15F hull to provide a dry ride. The new hull features a deeper 22.5degree V-angle design that Kawasaki says should provide better grip and offer precise turning. The sharper bow angle of the hull
(Right) The handle at the stern of the craft make deep-water boarding a cinch.
(Below) The bow storage compartment on the Ultra models is massive, as it features a removable tub and a 53-gallon storage area under the tub.
is also designed to offer a smooth ride in rough waters. The chines have also been revised on the hull to provide high-speed stability for the craft. To complement the hull changes, the Ultras also feature new sponsons to increase straight-line stability as well as bite hard in the corners. Kawasaki actually goes as far as saying it designed this hull to offer more of a lean-in cornering style that is similar to riding motorcycles, a product that Kawasaki knows quite well. Back at the pump, Kawasaki had to make some changes to handle the extra power made by the engine. A new 155mm pump is used on the Ultras, which is 15mm larger than the one used on the STX-15F. A new eight-vane stator is used (on the 15F it was a six-vane), and a new impeller is used to complement the engine.
(Far right) The new glove box features plenty of room for a few drinks, and its Styrofoam drink holder is removable. This compartment is also the location of the crafts Immobilizer security system.
The top deck of the new Ultra models is where this new platform differs most noticeably from other Kawasaki Jet Skis. The bow of the craft is redesigned to feature a more aggressive-looking, sleek design. The bow hatch opens to access a removable front storage tray (which is nice but does not have any handles to grip it with), which removes to access a massive 53-gallon storage area that Kawasaki notes is the largest in the class.This huge amount of bow storage is a welcome improvement to Kawasakis previously cramped storage space on the STX models. Upon opening the bow storage compartment, the gas fill is exposed, as well as Kawasakis engine flush fitting, which is arguably the easiest system to find in the industry. The cowling is a new design as well, and it features some notable updates. First off, the adjustable rearview mirrors are no longer attached to the hood, which Kawasaki changed in an effort to reduce the weight of the hood when accessing the bow storage. The instrumentation is also redesigned
20 PWI 20TH ANNIVERSARY DECEMBER 2006
on this model. It provides both a digital and analog tachometer, a digital speedometer, a cool new boost strip to show the approximate amount of boost delivered to the engine from the supercharger, a function to save the peak speed and rpm for the craft, along with all the standard functions such as clock, trip timer, hour gauge, fuel-level gauge, engine warnings, etc.While the features are cool on the craft, they are tough to read in some light conditions and seem some what crammed in the space provided. Certain readouts are easier to read than others, such as the fuel gauge, which is a little tough to read unless the craft is stopped. Kawasaki made some major ergonomic changes to this new model as well, such as the handlebars on the new Ultras are adjustable to five different positions, making the bar angle more adaptable to stand-up or sit-down riding. Kawasaki also decided to change the placement of its reverse lever from the right side of the cowling (just under the throttle lever) to the left-hand side, which we feel is a great change since it makes close-quarters navigating more manageable. The glove compartment was also redesigned on the Ultras, and it is now much larger than previous Jet Skis runabouts. It is large enough to hold two
drinks, and it features a removable Styrofoam cup holder. Upon opening this compartment, Kawasakis Immobilizer system is accessed. It is basically an ignition-like security system utilizing keys to communicate with the ECU, and only the keys for each particular craft will start that vehicle. There are two keys that come with each vehicle, as the FPO (Full Power Operation) key allows the engine to operate at full power (the rev-limiter kicks in at 8900 rpm).The other key, the SLO or Smart Learning Operation key, limits the engine rpm to approximately 5800 rpm (about 40 mph) to allow novice or younger riders the chance to pilot the craft at a reduced speed to get comfortable with riding. The keys are used in addition to the lanyard and their function as an anti-theft system is a good feature, but it is a little annoying when the engines power is shut off for a minute or so, and a key needs to be reinserted to start the engine again. We would like the system much more if they keys didnt need to be re-inserted so often.
To check out and ride Kawasakis new craft, we were flown out to Las Vegas, where we stayed at the MonteLago Resort on Lake Las Vegas.The next morning, we were given free rein of Lake Mead (or at least a portion of it, because the lake is huge).We had the chance to test the craft in just about
The newly designed instrumentation on the Ultras has some cool features, but its not the easiest setup to view while riding.
any way imaginable - and we made sure to make the most of this opportunity. The morning was spent powering around the lake on the Ultra 250X. One grab of the throttle and you know this craft is the real deal. It accelerates very hard, and once the craft starts to hit the midrange power (somewhere in the 30-40 mph range) the boost from the supercharger comes on. A superchargers power delivery may not feel quite as noticeable as a turbocharger, as the power delivery of a supercharger tends to be smoother and more linear. But the Ultra 250X certainly pulls hard from the first tug of the throttle all the way to its peak speed. As for peak speed, well, Kawasaki representatives tells us that with a full tank of gas and an average-sized rider of about 190 pounds, the craft will have a peak of about 65 mph. Though we didnt get to put these craft to the test in front of a radar gun (well
have to wait for a shootout in the middle of next year for that), some crafty journalists were cunning enough to bring along a GPS unit, which read that the 250X traveled at a peak speed of about 66.5 mph with a full tank of gas, while the Ultra LX model ran about 52 mph at its peak speed. Speed and power aside, the 250X handles very well. Its obvious the hull was designed to match the power delivery of the engine, as the craft carves through corners in an aggressive yet confident manner. Although we werent given the exact weight of the craft, we do know its closer to 1000 pounds than Kawasakis previous STX models (the STX15F has a claimed dry weight of 745 lbs.) But on the water the Ultra doesnt feel heavy and cumbersome. It corners and performs like a musclecraft three-seater. It manages to take chop bumps and boat wakes well, and it tracks straight through any rough water we encountered during the ride. As for comfort, the new adjustable handlebars are just plain awesome. They make it easy to find just the right angle for the type of riding you plan on doing. The seat and rider area are nice as well, as the new seats seemed to provide plenty of comfort (though they are not quite as defined as on the STX models).Tossing on a passenger was no trouble at all, and all parties had no major complaints. We even managed to perform a towing evaluation with both the supercharged Ultra 250X and the Ultra LX. While the Ultra LX was great for both wakeboarder and spotter, the driver also noted that it was easy to find
the sweet spot with the engine (something that wasnt always as easy to do with the STX-15F while towing). While we thought it might be tougher to modulate the throttle on the superchaarged craft, it actually rode very similar to the Ultra LX, as the boost from the supercharger didnt quite kick in hard at the lower speeds we traveled for towing. By looking at the boost gauge on the craft, the boost didnt come on until about 5000 rpm, which is just out of the engine speed for towing. Ergonomically, there are some great new features on this craft. Aside from the bars, the newly placed reverse lever on the left of the cowling is a very welcome change. We also noted the new handle Kawasaki placed at the base of the seat at the stern, which assists riders in boarding from the water. The use of this handle and the retractable reboarding step make the process so easy that we wonder how a handle concept such as this ever escaped engineers in the first place. The new Kawasaki Ultra 250X is the real deal. The 250 horsepower it produces is no joke, but its not fair to say that this is all the craft has to offer. Kawasaki really did its homework when it came to all the features of this craft, and many of the updates made on the Ultra platforms are welcome adjustments. The all-new Ultra 250X will be available in two color options of Sunbeam Red or Valiant Blue/Metallic Phantom Silver, and it will carry a suggested retail price of $11,499. The all-new Ultra LX comes in one color of Jet White/Valiant Blue, and it will have an MSRP of $9,799.
The Ultra LX features the same all-new hull and deck as the Ultra 250X, though it is powered by a 160horsepower naturally aspirated engine instead of the supercharged engine found on the 250X.
DECEMBER 2006 watercraft.com 21
JET SKI STX-15F
The STX-15F is back for another year without any major changes.The 15F features the same four-stroke motor as the STX-12F, but with a longer stroke to increase its displacement to 1498cc. The craft puts out 160 horsepower and has been designed to deliver a smooth spread of power across the entire rpm range. Aside from offering a performanceminded engine, the STX-15F has a Three-Star Ultra-Low Emission rating
JET SKI STX-12F
Back for its fourth year, Kawasakis STX12F is based on the same hull-and-deck and platform as the STX-15F. However, there are some key engine differences with the powerplant. The 1199cc, 125horsepower 12Fs engine has a smaller displacement that has a little less punch than the 15F but offers a little more fuel economy. Theres also a small difference with the fuel-injection system on the 12F compared to the 15F, as the STX12F uses smaller 54mm throttle bodies to inject fuel into the cylinders. The STX-12F features Kawasaki Smart Steering (KSS) and the Smart Learning Operation (SLO). The 12F also features a magnetic-keyed ignition switch to prevent unauthorized use of the craft. For 2007, the Kawasaki STX-12F is available in Candy Thunder Blue/Jet White and Firecracker Red, and at $7,999, it is Kawasakis most affordable runabout.
from the California Air Resources Board (CARB), which has even more stringent standards than the Environmental Protection Agencys (EPA). The 15F features the Kawasaki Smart Steering (KSS), a system that aids riders in completing a turn in off-throttle situations. The STX-15F also features
Kawasakis Smart Learning Operation (SLO), which is a system designed to limit the top speed of the craft so novice riders dont get in over their heads. The STX-15F will come in one color choice next year, which is Metallic Nocturne Blue/Jet White. The STX-15F will have an MSRP of $9,499.
KAWASAKI 800 SX-R
The 800 SX-R returns to the Jet Ski lineup for its fifth year, and not much has changed other than new graphics and colors.The SX-R is again powered by the 781cc 80-horsepower, twin-cylinder twostroke engine that features a bore and stroke of 82mm x 74mm. The SX-R utilizes twin BN40 Mikuni carburetors to provide fuel-air mixture to the engine, while a water-jacketed exhaust pipe keeps temperatures in the engine compartment down and helps to reduce engine noise. The hull of the SX-R is constructed of fiberglass-reinforced plastic, and Kawasaki says the hull is designed for exceptional stability yet does not sacri22 PWI 20TH ANNIVERSARY DECEMBER 2006
fice turning prowess. The SX-R comes with a 4.5-gallon fuel tank and requires the use of premixed fuel. It also comes equipped with a freshwater-flush fitting to make it easy to rinse
out the motors cooling lines after riding. For 2007 the SX-R is available in Lime Green/Jet White and Firecracker Red/Jet White, with a suggested retail price of PWI $5,999.
When shifted to the normal operation mode (Full Power
Operation mode, FPO), the same initial display is first shown and followed by FPO for two seconds. However, FPO is shown only once when shifted and is not displayed thereafter. When the ignition switch is turned off and on again, the same mode when turned off is displayed again.
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-3
Before starting to perform an inspection service or carry out a disassembly and reassembly operation on watercraft, read the precautions given below. To facilitate actual operations, notes, illustrations, photographs, cautions, and detailed descriptions have been included in each chapter wherever necessary. This section explains the items that require particular attention during the removal and reinstallation or disassembly and reassembly of general parts. Especially note the following:
Kawasaki Diagnostic System (KDS) Software
KDS software version 2.2 that runs on Windows personal computer (PC) will be available as a diagnostic tool for watercraft with Kawasaki DFI system. You need the following items to use the KDS. Item KDS Software Version 2.2 (CD-ROM) Signal Converter Communication Cable and Cable Adapter Relay Cable P/No. 57001-1503 57001-1504 57001-1470 57001-1535
The connectors for the communication cable and relay cable are located in the front of the battery. Connect the communication cable to the KDS connector (4-pin) [A] and the relay cable between the relay assembly [B] connectors (8-pin) [C].
Adjustments shall be made in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart or whenever troubleshooting or presence of symptoms indicate that adjustments may be required. Whenever running of the engine is required during maintenance it is best to have the watercraft in water.
Do not run the engine without cooling water supply for more than 15 seconds, especially in high revolutionary speed or severe engine and exhaust system damage will occur.
An auxiliary cooling supply may be used if the watercraft cannot be operated in water during adjustments. If possible, always operate the watercraft in water rather than use an auxiliary cooling supply.
1-4 GENERAL INFORMATION
standard garden Obtain a[B] as shown. hose [A] and a garden hose adapter C: Garden Hose Fitting of Adapter D: Flushing Fitting of Adapter E: Thread: Rp 3/4
Optional part (P/No. 92005-3746) is available as a garden
Hardening, shrinkage, or damage of both gaskets and O-rings after disassembly can reduce sealing performance. Remove old gaskets and clean the sealing surfaces thoroughly so that no gasket material or other material remains. Install new gaskets and replace used O-rings when re-assembling
1-8 GENERAL INFORMATION
Liquid Gasket, Locking Agent
For applications that require Liquid Gasket or a Locking agent, clean the surfaces so that no oil residue remains before applying liquid gasket or locking agent. Do not apply them excessively. Excessive application can clog oil passages and cause serious damage.
For items such as bearings or oil seals that must be pressed into place, apply small amount of oil to the contact area. Be sure to maintain proper alignment and use smooth movements when installing.
Do not remove pressed ball or needle unless removal is absolutely necessary. Replace with new ones whenever removed. Press bearings with the manufacturer and size marks facing out. Press the bearing into place by putting pressure on the correct bearing race as shown. Pressing the incorrect race can cause pressure between the inner and outer race and result in bearing damage.
Oil Seal, Grease Seal
Do not remove pressed oil or grease seals unless removal is necessary. Replace with new ones whenever removed. Press new oil seals with manufacture and size marks facing out. Make sure the seal is aligned properly when installing.
Apply specified grease to the lip of seal before installing the seal.
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-9
Circlips, Cotter Pins
Replace circlips or cotter pins that were removed with new ones. Take care not to open the clip excessively when installing to prevent deformation.
It is important to lubricate rotating or sliding parts during assembly to minimize wear during initial operation. Lubrication points are called out throughout this manual, apply the specific oil or grease as specified.
Direction of Engine Rotation
When rotating the crankshaft, by hand, the free play amount of rotating direction will affect the adjustment. Rotate the crankshaft to positive direction (counter-clockwise viewed from stern sinde).
A two-color wire is identified first by the primary color and then the stripe color. Unless instructed otherwise, electrical wires must be connected to those of the same color.
1-10 GENERAL INFORMATION
JT1500-A1 Left Side View
JT1500-A1 Right Side View
GENERAL INFORMATION 1-11
Items Engine Type Displacement Bore and Stroke Compression Ratio Maximum Horsepower Maximum Torque Ignition System Lubrication System Carburetion System Starting System Cylinder Numbering Method Firing Order Valve Timing: Inlet: Open Close Duration Exhaust: Open Close Duration Tuning Specifications Spark plug: Type Gap Ignition Timing Idle Speed Compression Pressure Drive System Coupling Jet Pump: Type Thrust Steering Braking Performance Minimum Turning Radius Fuel Consumption Cruising Range Dimensions Overall Length JT1500-A1 A2 4-stroke, DOHC, 4-cylinder, water cooled mL (91.4 cu in.) 83 69.2 mm (3.27 2.72 in.) 10.6 : kW (160 PS) @r/min (rpm) 152 Nm (15.5 kgfm, 112.1 ftlb) @r/min (rpm) Digital transistor Forced lubrication (semi-dry sump) FI (fuel injection) MIKUNI AC Electric starter Front (bow) to rear (stern), 1-2-3-4 1-2-4-3
L S L, S L SS SS see chapter 3 L
S S S First, MO, S Final, MO, S L S L
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-5
Fastener Inlet Side Camshaft Chain Guide Bolts Camshaft Chain Tensioner Mounting Bolts Camshaft Chain Tensioner Cap Bolt Camshaft Position Sensor Rotor Bolt Water Hose Joint Oil Passage Joint Engine Removal/Installation Engine Mounting Bolts Engine Damper Mounting Bolts Engine Bottom End Crankshaft Sensor Cover Bolts Engine Bracket Mounting Bolts Timing Rotor Bolt Connecting Rod Nuts Oil Passage Plugs Stator Mounting Bolts Grommet Cover Bolts Magneto Cover Bolts Output Cover Bolts Output Shaft Coupling Crankcase Bolts (M10) Crankcase Bolts (M8) Crankcase Bolts (M8) Crankcase Bolts (M6) Cooling and Bilge Systems Breather Mounting Bolt Water Hose Joint (L Shape Type) Water Hose Joint (Straight Shape Type) Water Hose Joint (Straight Shape Type) Drive System Coupling Drive Shaft Holder Mounting Bolts Coupling Cover Bolts Pump and Impeller Steering Nozzle Pivot Bolts Pump Mounting Bolts Pump Outlet Mounting Bolts Pump Cap Bolts Pump Cap Plug Impeller Pump Bracket Mounting Bolts (2) Pump Bracket Mounting Bolts (4) Nm 12 9.16 7.12 184.108.40.206.8 3.19 9.8 Torque kgfm 1.2 1.0 2.0 1.2 1.1 1.1 3.7 1.6 0.80 3.0 3.0 2.0 1.2 1.0 2.0 0.10 5.0 3.0 3.0 1.2 1.1 2.0 1.1 4.0 2.2 0.90 1.9 3.7 1.9 1.0 0.1.9 1.0 ftlb 104 inlb 87 inlb inlb 95 inlb 95 inlb 69 inlb inlb 87 inlb inlb inlb 95 inlb inlb 78 inlb inlb 35 inlb 87 inlb Remarks L L L SS L L L
L L MO, see text L L L
MO MO, S MO, S S S L SS SS SS, see text L L L L L L L
L, SS L
2-6 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Fastener Pump Cover Mounting Bolts Grate Mounting Bolts Filter Cover Mounting Bolts Steering Handlebar Clamp Bolts Start/stop Switch Case Mounting Screws Throttle Case Mounting Screws Steering Shaft Locknut Steering Shaft Nut Steering Holder Mounting Bolts Steering Neck Mounting Bolts Steering Cable Joint Bolt Ball Joint Shift Cable End Nut Reverse Bucket Pivot Bolts Shift Cable Nut Steering Cable Nut Shift Lever Locknut Hull/Engine Hood Crossmember Bolts Handrail Bolts Lock Assembly Nut Front Duct Bolts Damper Bolts Damper Bracket Bolts Front Storage Compartment Cover Bolts Hinge Bolts Front Storage Compartment Hook Bolts Steering Cover Bolts Meter Screen Bolts Seat Hook Bolts Seat Locknut Reboarding Step Bolts Mirror Stay Bolts Stabilizer Bolts Air inlet Duct Bolts Exhaust Outlet Bolts Electrical System Vehicle-Down Sensor Mounting Screws Electrical Parts Bracket Screws Starter Relay Case Bolts Ignition Coil Mounting Bolts Water Temperature Sensor Nm 7.9 9.8 9.3.9 3.16 9.8 9.8 9.20 7.8 9.8 4.9 9.8 1.5 4.9 7.8 8.Torque kgfm 0.80 1.0 1.0 1.6 0.40 0.40 5.0 6.0 2.0 1.6 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.9 4.0 4.0 2.0 0.80 1.0 0.50 1.0 0.15 0.50 0.80 0.90 1.5 ftlb 69 inlb 87 inlb 87 inlb inlb 35 inlb 14.87 inlb 87 inlb 87 inlb 29 14.inlb 87 inlb 43 inlb 87 inlb inlb inlb inlb inlb 11 Remarks L L L L
Install the filler cap.
Oil Filter Replace
Check the oil level (see Engine Lubrication System chapter). Remove: Hull/Engine Hood chapter) Seat (see Drain the engine oil (see Engine Oil Change). Place a reg or cloth under the oil filter to receive the re maining oil. Remove the oil filter [A] with the oil filter wrench [B].
Special Tool - Oil Filter Wrench: 57001-1249
Torque - Oil Filler Cap: 1.0 Nm (0.10 kgfm, 8.7 inlb)
new Replace the filtertowith agasketone.before installation. Apply engine oil the [A] Tighten the filter with the oil filter wrench.
Pour in the specified type and amount of oil (see Engine Oil Change).
Torque - Oil Filter: 18 Nm (1.8 kgfm, 13 ftlb)
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-15
Periodic Maintenance Procedures Engine Top End
Air Suction Valve Inspection
Remove the air suction valve (see Engine Top End chapter). Visually inspect the reeds [A] for cracks, folds, warps, heat damage, or other damage.
If there is any doubt as to the condition of the reed, replace the air suction valve as an assembly. Check the reed contact areas [B] of the valve holder for grooves, scratches, any signs of separation from the holder, or heat damage. If there is any doubt as to the condition of the reed contact areas, replace the air suction valve as an assembly. If any carbon or other foreign particles have accumulated between the reed and the reed contact area, wash the valve assembly with a high-flash point solvent.
Do not scrape off the deposits with a scraper as this could damage the rubber, requiring replacement of the suction valve assembly.
Valve Clearance Inspection
Valve clearance must be checked and adjusted when
the engine is cold (at room temperature).
Remove: Hull/Engine Hood chapter) Seat (see
Cylinder Head Cover (see Engine Top End chapter) Position the crankshaft at #1, #4 piston TDC as follows. clockwise [B] and set the crankshaft at #1, 4 piston TDC.
Special Tool - Shaft Wrench: 57001-1551
Using the shaft wrench [A], turn the crankshaft counter-
The timing marks [A] must be aligned with the cylinder
head upper surface [B] as shown.
2-16 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
Measure the valve clearance between the cam and the valve lifter with a thickness gauge [A].
Valve Clearance Standard: IN 0.15 0.24 mm (0.0059 0.0094 in.) EX 0.22 0.31 mm (0.0087 0.0122 in.)
When positioning #1 piston TDC at the end of the
EXHAUST SYSTEM 5-9
Water Box Muffler
Water Box Muffler Removal
Remove: Pocket Rear Storage
Oil Separator Tank with Oil Separator Hoses (see the Lubrication System chapter) Air Filter (see the Fuel System chapter)
Loosen: Clamp Screw (see Exhaust Manifold ReJoint Tube
moval) the Remove[B]. front exhaust tube [A] by loosing the clamp screws Unhook the rubber strap [C] from the left water box muffler.
Exhaust Manifold [B] (see Exhaust Manifold Removal)
Remove the left water box muffler by pulling it to the rear.
When removing the left water box muffler, remove the
water box muffler [A] from the deck with turning it with the welding spot [B] and rivets [C]. Only left side water box muffler should be removed or inspected.
Remove the joint tube from the exhaust pipe.
Water Box Muffler Installation
dampers Be sure the place. [A] on the hull bottom and muffler body are in
5-10 EXHAUST SYSTEM
the dampers Be surein place. [A] on the left side water box muffler [B] are
Make sure the two rings [A] are installed to the correct position.
If the rings are damaged or warped, replace the rings with new ones.
the the paper Bindrings.two rings [A] by putting be burnedtape [B] around the The paper tape can out soon after firing.
the joint tube to the exhaust pipe. Install the left water box muffler to the exhaust pipe. Install the clamp securing the front exhaust tube, noting Tighten position, and check the hose routing and clamp its screw screw position (see Cable, Wire and Hose Routing in Appendix chapter).
Water Box Muffler Inspection
Remove the left water box muffler. of the water box. Empty water outspigot for damage caused by excessive Check the inlet heat.
If there is heat damage to the inlet spigot, check the cooling system for blockage (see Cooling System Cleaning and Inspection) and the fuel system for proper adjustment (see Fuel System chapter).
Valve Spring Paint Color: EX-Red IN-Blue
[A] Valve Stem [B] Oil Seal [C] Spring Seat [D] Closed Coil End [E] Valve Springs (Inner) [F] Valve Springs (Outer) [G] Retainer [H] Split Keepers
Valve Guide Removal
Remove: Valve Removal) Valve (see
Oil Seal Spring Seat Heat the area around the valve guide to 120 150C (248 302F), and hammer lightly on the valve guide arbor [A] to remove the guide from the top of the head.
Do not heat the cylinder head with a torch. This will warp the cylinder head. Soak the cylinder head in oil and heat the oil.
Special Tool - Valve Guide Arbor, 5: 57001-1203
ENGINE TOP END 6-25
Valve Guide Installation
Apply engine oil to the valve guide outer surface before installation. Heat the area around the valve guide hole to about 120 150C (248 302F). from Drive the valve guide in flangethe top of the head using the valve guide arbor. The stops the guide from going
in too far.
Ream the valve guide with valve guide reamer [A] even if the old guide is reused.
Special Tool - Valve Guide Reamer, 5: 57001-1204
Special Tool - Valve Guide Arbor,
Valve-to-Guide Clearance Measurement (Wobble Method)
If a small bore gauge is not available, inspect the valve guide wear by measuring the valve to valve guide clearance with the wobble method as indicated below. Insert a new valve [A] into the guide [B] and set a dial gauge against the stem perpendicular to it as close as possible to the cylinder head mating surface. Move the stem back and forth [C] to measure valve/valve guide clearance. Repeat the measurement in a direction at a right angle to the first. If the reading exceeds the service limit, replace the guide.
The reading is not actual valve/valve guide clearance
because the measuring point is above the guide.
Valve/Valve Guide Clearance (Wobble Method) Standard: Exhaust Inlet Service Limit: Exhaust Inlet 0.35 mm (0.014 in.) 0.29 mm (0.011 in.) 0.09 0.17 mm (0.0035 0.0067 in.) 0.03 0.11 mm (0.0012 0.0043 in.)
6-26 ENGINE TOP END
Valve Seat Inspection
Remove the valve (see Valve Removal). the valve [B] valve seating Check the seat [C]. surface [A] between and valve
Measure the outside diameter [D] of the seating pattern
on the valve seat. If the outside diameter is too large or too small, repair the seat (see Valve Seat Repair).
Valve Seating Surface Outside Diameter Standard: Exhaust Inlet 27.6 27.8 mm (1.087 1.094 in.) 32.6 32.8 mm (1.283 1.291 in.)
Measure the seat width [E] of the portion where there is
no build-up carbon (white portion) of the valve seat with a vernier caliper. Good [F] If the width is too wide [G], too narrow [H] or uneven [J], repair the seat (see Valve Seat Repair).
Connecting Rod Twist Service Limit: 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)
Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance
ther crank web to determine clearance.
connecting rod clearance Measurethickness gauge big end side the big end[A]. ei[B] between and Insert a
Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance Standard: 0.13 0.38 mm (0.0051 0.0150 in.) Service Limit: 0.58 mm (0.023 in.)
If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the connecting rod with a new one and then check clearance again. If clearance is too large after connecting rod replacement, the crankshaft also must be replaced.
Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin Wear
Measure the bearing insert/crankpin [B] clearance with a plastigage [A].
Tighten the connecting rod big end nuts to the specified
torque (see Connecting Rod Installation). Do not move the connecting rod and crankshaft during clearance measurement.
Connecting Rod Big End Bearing Insert/Crankpin Clearance Standard: 0.041 0.071 mm (0.0016 0.00280 in.) Service Limit: 0.11 mm (0.0043 in.)
If clearance is within the standard, no bearing replacement is required. If clearance is between 0.072 mm (0.00284 in.) and the service limit (0.11 mm, 0.0043 in.), replace the bearing inserts [A] with inserts painted blue [B]. Check insert/crankpin clearance with the plastigage. The clearance may exceed the standard slightly, but it must not be less than the minimum in order to avoid bearing seizure. If the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the diameter of the crankpins.
Crankpin Diameter Standard: 38.984 39.000 mm (1.5348 1.5354 in.) Service Limit: 38.97 mm (1.534 in.)
ENGINE BOTTOM END 8-23
If any crankpin has worn past the service limit, replace the crankshaft with a new one. If the measured crankpin diameters are not less than the service limit, but do not coincide with the original diameter markings on the crankshaft, make new marks on it.
Crankpin Diameter Marks None 38.984 38.992 mm (1.5348 1.5351 in.)
: Crankpin Diameter Marks, mark or no mark.
38.993 39.000 mm (1.5352 1.5354 in.)
bore diameter, Measure the connecting rod big endaccordance withand mark each connecting rod big end in the bore diameter. Big End Cap [A] Connecting Rod [B] Weight Mark [C]: A letter of the alphabet Bore Diameter Mark (Around Weight Mark) [D]: or no mark.
CY: Apply cyanoacrylate cement. L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent. SY: Apply synthetic rubber adhesive.
13-4 HULL/ENGINE HOOD
HULL/ENGINE HOOD 13-5
No. 3 Fastener Stabilizer Bolts Air Inlet Duct Bolts Exhaust Outlet Bolts cyanoacrylate cement. a non-permanent locking agent. silicone sealant. synthetic rubber adhesive. Nm 9.8 Torque kgfm 1.0 ftlb 87 inlb Remarks L L L
CY: Apply L: Apply SS: Apply SY: Apply
13-6 HULL/ENGINE HOOD
Pull [A] the latch handle [B].
Remove the seat up [A] and to the rear [B].
hook [A] into the deck Insert theitseatthe way forward bybracket [B] on theof the and slide all pushing the rear
seat. Push down on the rear of the seat to lock it.
Front Storage Compartment Cover Removal
Remove: Bracket Mounting Bolts [A] Damper
Front Storage Compartment Cover Bracket Mounting Bolts [B] Front Storage Compartment Cover Assembly [C]
HULL/ENGINE HOOD 13-7
the hinge To removeBolt [A] assembly, remove the following. Damper Hinge Bolts [B]
Front Storage Compartment Cover Disassembly
Unscrew the front duct bolts [A] and remove the front duct [B].
Unscrew the lock assembly nut [A] and remove the lock assembly [B].
13-8 HULL/ENGINE HOOD
out the drill Drill removerivets [A] with acoverbit [B] of the correct size and the front duct [C].
Rivet Removal Drill Bit Size 5.0 mm (0.2 in.)
Stop drilling when the rivet head starts to turn with drill Tap the rivet out with a suitable punch and hammer.
Front Storage Compartment Cover Assembly
cover Secure the front duct[B]. to the front duct [A] with the rivets using a riveter
Be sure that the trim seals [A] are in position.
Torque the lock assembly nut.
Air Duct Bolts Hinge Bolts Damper Bolts
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the following bolts.
Torque - Lock Assembly Nut: 4.9 Nm (0.50 kgfm, 43 inlb)
HULL/ENGINE HOOD 13-9
front storage compartment cover. Open the the nuts [A] and washers [B] and remove the Unscrew (both sides). mirrors [C]
Be sure that the washer [A] are in position.
Mirror Stay Removal
To remove the right mirror stay [A], remove the bolts [B].
The plate [C] on the inside of the hull will drop down when the last bolt is removed.
Remove the right mirror (see Mirror Removal). To remove the left mirror stay, perform the next procedures.
Loosen the clamp [A] and disconnect the flushing hose
Remove the flushing cap.[A] with the damper [B] from the Pull up the flushing fitting hull. Unscrew the bolt [C] and remove the left mirror stay [D].
The plate [E] on the inside of the hull will drop down
Drill out the rivets [D] (see Rivet Removal).
Remove the rear bumper [E].
Rear Bumper Installation
Secure the bumpers to the hull flange with the rivets (see Rivet Installation).
HULL/ENGINE HOOD 13-19
Side Bumper Removal
out the plugs [A]. Takeout the rivets [B] (see Rivet Removal). Drill the corner bumper [C]. Remove
Remove the trim strip [A] from the side bumper [B].
Drill out the rivets [A] (see Rivet Removal).
Side Bumper Installation
side bumpers Secure theInstallation). to the hull flange with the rivets (see Rivet Install the trim strip.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 14-1
Parts Location. Exploded View.. Wiring Diagram.. Specifications. Special Tools and Sealant.. Precautions.. Electrical Wiring.. Wiring Inspection.. Battery.. Removal.. Installation. Electrolyte Filling. Initial Charge.. Precautions.. Interchange.. Charging Condition Inspection.. Refreshing Charge.. Electric Starter System.. Starter Relay Removal.. Starter Relay Installation. Starter Relay Inspection.. Starter Motor Removal.. Starter Motor Installation. Starter Motor Disassembly. Starter Motor Assembly.. Brush Inspection. Commutator Cleaning and Inspection.. Armature Inspection. Brush Lead Inspection.. Brush Plate and Terminal Bolt Inspection.. Reduction Gear Removal/Installation.. Reduction Gear Inspection.. Charging System. Magneto Output Voltage. Regulator/Rectifier Removal/Installation. Regulator/Rectifier Inspection. Regulator Inspection.. Ignition System.. Crankshaft Sensor Removal. Crankshaft Sensor Installation.. Timing Rotor Removal.. Timing Rotor Installation. 14-3 14-6 14-12 14-16 14-17 14-18 14-20 14-20 14-21 14-21 14-21 14-21 14-23 14-23 14-24 14-24 14-24 14-26 14-26 14-26 14-26 14-27 14-27 14-28 14-28 14-29 14-29 14-30 14-30 14-30 14-31 14-31 14-33 14-33 14-33 14-34 14-34 14-37 14-37 14-37 14-38 14-38 Crankshaft Sensor Inspection. Ignition Coil Removal. Ignition Coil Installation.. Ignition Coil Inspection.. Camshaft Position Sensor Removal. Camshaft Position Sensor Installation.. Camshaft Position Sensor Inspection.. Igniter Removal/Installation.. Igniter Inspection. Spark Plug Removal.. Spark Plug Installation.. Spark Plug Inspection. Spark Plug Adjustment. Spark Plug Cleaning.. Kawasaki Smart Steering System.. Steering Position Sensor and Magnet Removal.. Steering Position Sensor and Magnet Installation.. Inspection of Kawasaki Smart Steering System. Steering Position Sensor Clearance.. Steering Position Sensor Input Voltage Inspection. Steering Position Sensor Output Voltage Inspection. Sensors.. Speed Sensor Removal/Installation.. Speed Sensor Inspection. Fuel Level Sensor Inspection. Throttle Sensor Removal/Installation.. Throttle Sensor Inspection. Water Temperature Sensor Inspection.. Inlet Air Temperature Sensor Inspection.. Oil Temperature Sensor Inspection.. Multifunction Meter.. Display Function Inspection. 14-38 14-39 14-40 14-41 14-42 14-42 14-43 14-43 14-43 14-46 14-46 14-46 14-46 14-46 14-49 14-49 14-49 14-50 14-50 14-51 14-52 14-54 14-54 14-54 14-55 14-55 14-56 14-56 14-56 14-56 14-57 14-57
Torque - Starter Relay Mounting Nuts: 4 Nm (0.40 kgfm, 35 inlb)
the gasket [A] a one. Replace the dowel pins witharenewposition. sure in Be sure the grommet [C][B] installed on the relay case [D]. Be is Be sure the battery cable is connected to the battery ter minal having red mark.
Torque - Starter Relay Case Bolts: 7.8 Nm (0.80 kgfm, 69 inlb) Starter Cable Mounting Nuts: 4 Nm (0.40 kgfm, 35 inlb)
Starter Relay Inspection
(see Starter Remove the starterRrelay range. Relay Removal). Set hand tester to 1 Connect meter leads to starter relay as shown. If resistance is less than infinite, the starter relay switch is not returning and must be replaced.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 14-27
1 Set ohmmeter to R to range. as shown. Connect meter leads starter relay Activate starter relay switch by connecting a 12 V battery as shown. If the starter relay switch clicks and the ohmmeter indicates zero resistance, the starter relay switch is good. If the meter indicates high or infinite () resistance, the starter relay switch is defective and must be replaced.
Starter Motor Removal
Inlet Manifold (see Fuel System chapter) Side out the rubber caps [A] and remove the terminal nuts.
the mounting bolts Removethe starter motor [B].[A]. Pull out
Starter Motor Installation CAUTION
Do not tap the starter motor shaft or body. Tapping the shaft or body could damage the motor. the starter motor, clean the starter mo When installing crankcase [B] where the starter motor is tor legs [A] and grounded. [A]. Apply grease to the O-rings tighten the mounting bolts. Install the starter motor and
Torque - Starter Motor Mounting Bolts: 8.8 Nm (0.90 kgfm, 78 inlb)
14-28 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Starter Motor Disassembly
the Removal). Remove the starter motor (see Starter Relayand remove off starter motor through bolts Take end covers [B] and pull the armature[A] of the yoke both out [C].
[A] bolt [B], Remove the terminal locknut the and terminal [C] from and then remove the brush with brush plate the yoke.
Starter Motor Assembly
thin coat of grease to Apply atoothed washer [B] intothe oil seal [A]. the end cover. Fit the
the plate cover Installthe yoke [C]. [A] and the positive brush assembly [B] in Tighten the terminal nut [D] securely.
[A] with Holding the spring ends brushes.suitable plates [B], put the armature among the
Clean the cooling system (see the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
bilge Maintenance Clean the Beforesystem (see the Periodic to the plastic chapter). reconnecting the hoses breather fitting, blow air through both hoses [A] to force all water out of the bilge system.
Change the engine oil (see Engine Lubrication System in Periodic Maintenance chapter).
Drain the fuel tank. This should be done with a siphon or pump.
[A] Siphon Hose
Lift the stern upward a little so that fuel and water in the bottom of the fuel tank may flow toward the fuel filter to completely drain the fuel tank.
Fuel System chapter). Remove the fuel pump (see the (see Fuel System in PeClean the fuel pump screen [A] riodic Maintenance chapter). Refill the fuel tank with fresh fuel approximately 10 L (2.6 gal U.S.). Turn the ignition switch on. the stop button, and start the Push the lanyard key under periods until all fuel in the engine and run it in 15 second fuel system is with fresh fuel. Wait 5 minutes between 15 seconds running periods.
Do not run the engine without cooling water supply for more than 15 seconds at a time or severe engine and exhaust system damage will occur. the lanyard Pull switch off. key off the stop button and turn the ignition Drain the fuel tank. cap loose to prevent condensation in Leave the fuel filler the tank.
Remove the front storage pocket (see Hull/Engine Hood chapter). both two Disconnectconnectorsconnection on the ignition coil primary lead [A]. plugs (see Remove the sparkchapter). Electrical System in Periodic Maintenance fogging oil directly into Spraythe ignition switch on. each cylinder. Turn Push the lanyard key under the stop button. Turn the engine over several times with the start button to coat the
cylinder walls with oil.
Do not lean over the engine when performing this procedure. An air/oil mist may be forcibly ejected from the spark plug holes and could get into your eyes. If you do get some in your eyes, wash your eyes immediately with liberal amounts of clean, fresh water. Consult a physician as soon as possible. the lanyard Pull switch off. key off the stop button and turn the ignition the spark plugs with fogging Spray plugs and caps (see Electricaloil, and reinstall the spark System in Periodic Maintenance chapter).
1. Clamp 2. Breather Hose (Cylinder Head Breather Case) 3. Clamp Detail 4. Position the clamp pinch heads as shown. 5. Air Suction Valve 6. Air Suction Valve Hose 7. Inlet Water Pipe Joint on the Cylinder (Cooling Water from Left Water Box Muffler) 8. Cylinder 9. Cylinder Head Cover 10. Output Cover 11. Protective Tube 12. Return Oil Hose (Cylinder Oil Pan) 13. Breather Hose (Cylinder Breather Case) 14. Breather Case 15. Oil Pan 16. Front Pinch Head 17. Rear Pinch Head 18. Position the clamp so that its pinch heads do not touch the oil separator tank hose.
Refer to the Exploded View and Flow Diagram in the Cooling and Bilge Systems chapter. Install the clamp as shown, noting its screw head direction. 1. Bypass Outlet 2. Clamp 3. Holder 4. Bypass Outlet Hose: Run the bypass outlet hose between the fuel tank and the straps as shown. 5. Cooling Hose (Oil Cooler Exhaust Manifold): Run the cooling hose between the fuel tank and the straps as shown. 6. Cooling Hose (Pump Oil Cooler) 7. Oil Cooler 8. Water Pipe on the Cylinder Head 9. Position the clamp screw head as shown. 10. Cooling Hose (Cylinder Head Water Pipe Joint under the Left Water Box Muffler) 11. Protective Tube 12. Cooling Hose (Output Cover Exhaust Pipe) 13. Output Cover 14. Cooling Hose (Pump Output Cover) 15. Oil Pan 16. Band 17. Right Water Box Muffler 18. Position the clamp so that its screw head faces downward and outside. 19. Position the clamp so that its screw head faces backward. 20. Pump 21. Drain 22. Cooling Hose (Pump Output Cover) 23. Left Water Box Muffler 24. Cooling Hose (Left Water Box Muffler Hull) 25. Fix the No.26 and No.27 cooling hoses with the band. 26. Cooling Hose (Output Cover Exhaust Pipe) 27. Cooling hose (left water box muffler cylinder): Run the No.27 cooling hose under the No.26 cooling hose as shown. 28. Exhaust Pipe 29. Position the clamp so that its screw head faces inside. 30. Exhaust Manifold 31. Cooling Hose (Oil Cooler Exhaust Manifold) 32. Fuel Tank 33. Fuel Tank Strap 34. Shift Cable 35. Fix the No. 6 cooling hose and the shift cable with the band.
1. Exhaust Manifold 2. Exhaust Pipe 3. Water Hose Point (Cooling Hose from the Output Cover) 4. 30 5. Water Hose Joint (Cooling Hose from the Oil Cooler) 6. Upper Water Hose Joint 7. Cooling Hose Fitting (Left Water Box Muffler Cylinder) 8. Cooling Hose Fitting (Left Water Box Muffler Drain) 9. Lower Water Hose Joint 10. 45 11. Dampers 12. Left Water Box Muffler 13. Position the clamp so that their screw heads face forward. 14. To Tail Pipe 15. White Marks 16. F Mark 17. R Mark 18. Exhaust Tubes 19. Right Water Box Muffler
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