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Eagle Cuda 168About Eagle Cuda 168
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Comments to date: 3. Page 1 of 1. Average Rating:
sted 2:36am on Saturday, July 24th, 2010 
fish finder eagle is one of the top rated marine electronics and this device only needed a colored screen , and it cames with its own sonar Nice Little Fish Finder The Eagle Cuda 168 is a portable fish finder that runs on 8AA batteries.
cclay1358 3:37am on Friday, July 23rd, 2010 
Eagle Cuda 168 portable The Cuda 168 combines real portability with highly functional sonar capabilities.
gilsbert 11:50pm on Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 
Excellent Item Works as advertised, switches easily from kayak to boat, and gives you all the info you need to catch the big one.

Comments posted on www.ps2netdrivers.net are solely the views and opinions of the people posting them and do not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of us.

 

Documents

doc0

Pub. 988-0143-631 www.eaglesonar.com
Cuda 128, Cuda 128 Portable, Cuda 168, Cuda 168EX
Fish-finding & Depth Sounding Sonars
Installation and Operation Instructions
Copyright 2002 Eagle Electronics All rights reserved. Eagle is a registered trademark of Eagle Electronics Marine-Tex is a trademark of Illinois Tool Works Inc.
Eagle Electronics may find it necessary to change or end our policies, regulations, and special offers at any time. We reserve the right to do so without notice. All features and specifications subject to change without notice. All screens in this manual are simulated.
For free owner's manuals and other information, visit our web site:

www.eaglesonar.com

Eagle Electronics P.O. Box 669 Catoosa, OK USA 74015 Printed in USA.

Table of Contents

Introduction... 1 Capabilities and Specifications: Cuda Family.. 1 Installation Preparations... 3 Transducer Installation... 4 Recommended Tools and Supplies.. 4 Selecting a Transducer Location... 5 Shoot-Thru-Hull vs. Transom Mounting.. 7 Transom Transducer Assembly and Mounting.. 7 Trolling Motor Bracket Installation.. 12 Transducer Orientation and Fish Arches.. 12 Shoot-Thru-Hull Preparation and Installation. 14 Power and Cable Connections.. 16 Mounting the Sonar Unit: In-Dash or Bracket.. 18 In-Dash Installation... 18 Bracket Installation... 21 Portable Sonar Installation... 25 Operation.... 30 Keyboard Basics... 30 PWR/Clear (Power and Clear).. 30 Menu Up and Menu Down... 30 Up and Down Arrows.. 31 Memory... 31 Menus... 31 Display Opening Screen... 32 Chart Scroll (Stopping and Starting)... 33 Full Chart... 34 Depth Range Zoom (Automatic and Manual).. 35 Zoom.... 36 Sensitivity... 37 Grayline... 40 Fish I.D... 41 i
FishTrack... 43 Chart Scroll Speed... 44 Noise Reject and ASP (Advanced Signal Processing). 44 Alarms.... 45 Fish Alarm... 45 Depth Alarms... 46 Shallow Alarm... 46 Deep Alarm.... 46 Display Adjustments... 47 Backlights... 47 Display Contrast... 47 Depth Units of Measure... 48 Preset Unit (Reset All Options).. 48 System Info... 48 Simulator... 48 Digital Data Size for Depth and Temperature. 49 Troubleshooting... 50 Warranty and Service Information.. 57

Introduction

Thank you for buying an Eagle sonar! Your unit is a high-quality sonar designed for both professional and novice fishermen. All Eagle sonars have an automatic mode that finds and displays the bottom, fish, underwater structure and more right out of the box. All you have to do is press the on (PWR) key. However, if you want to fine-tune your unit, press the MENU UP key. The sonar has several powerful features you can control by scrolling through easy-to-use menus with the arrow and menu keys. To get started with your Eagle sonar, first read the installation section. It contains instructions for mounting the sonar unit and the transducer. Following recommended installation practices will pay off in optimum performance of your Eagle sonar. Improper installation can cause problems down the road, especially if the transducer is badly mounted. After you've read the installation instructions, install the unit and accessories. Then, read the rest of the manual. The more you know about your sonar, the better it will work for you. Take advantage of the Simulator feature. It allows you to practice operating your sonar before you get it in the water. And when you finally head for your favorite fishing hole, take this manual along for reference.

Capabilities and Specifications: Cuda Family
General Case size:. Cuda 128 and Cuda 168: 5.8" H x 4.3" W x 2.5" D (14.7 cm H x 10.8 cm W x 6.6 cm D). Cuda 168EX: 5.4" H x 6.9" W x 3.4" D (13.8 cm H x 17.6 cm W x 8.6 cm D). Sealed, waterproof; suitable for saltwater use. Display:.. High-contrast Film SuperTwist LCD. Diagonal viewing area: Cuda 128 and Cuda 168: 4.0" (10.2 cm). Cuda 168EX: 4.5" (11.4 cm). 1
Resolution:.. Cuda 128 and Cuda 128 Portable: 128 pixels (vert.) x 65 pixels (horiz.) resolution; 8,320 total pixels. Cuda 168 and Cuda 168 EX: 168 pixels (vert.) x 132 pixels (horiz.) resolution; 22,176 total pixels. Backlighting:. Backlit screen and keypad for night use. Input power:. 10 to 17 volts DC. Current drain:.. 110 ma lights off; 250 ma lights on. Back-up memory:.. Built-in memory stores sonar settings when unit is turned off. Sonar Frequency:.. 200 kHz. Transducers:. A Skimmer transducer comes packed with your sonar unit. Its 20 cone angle offers a wide fish detection area of up to 60 with high sensitivity settings. Operates at boat speeds up to 70 mph (61 kts). Transmitter:. 800 watts peak-to-peak; 100 watts RMS. Sonar sounding depth capability:. 600 feet (180 meters). Actual capability depends on transducer configuration and installation, bottom composition and water conditions. All sonar units typically read deeper in fresh water than in salt water. Depth display:. Continuous digital readout. Audible alarms:. Deep/shallow/fish. Automatic ranging:. Yes. Auto bottom track:. Yes. Zoom bottom track:. Yes. Surface water temp:.. Yes. 2
NOTICE! The storage and operation temperature range for your unit is from -4 degrees to +167 degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees to +75 degrees Celsius). Extended storage or operation in temperatures higher or lower than specified will damage the liquid crystal display in your unit. This type of damage is not covered by the warranty. For more information, contact the factory's Customer Service Department; phone numbers are inside the manual's back cover.
Installation Preparations
You can install the sonar system in some other order if you prefer, but we recommend this installation sequence: Caution: You should read over this entire installation section before drilling any holes in your vessel! 1. Determine the approximate location for the sonar unit, so you can plan how and where to route the cables for the transducer and power. This will help you make sure you have enough cable length for the desired configuration. 2. Determine the approximate location for the transducer and its cable route. 3. Determine the location of your battery or other power connection, along with the power cable route. 4. Install the transducer and route the transducer cable to the sonar unit. 5. Install the power cable and route it to the sonar unit. 6. Mount the sonar unit.

Transducer Installation

These instructions will help you install your Skimmer transducer on a transom, on a trolling motor or inside a hull. Please read all instructions before proceeding with any installation. Your Skimmer transducer typically comes packaged with a one-piece stainless steel bracket for mounting it to the transom of your boat. The optional trolling motor mount uses a one-piece plastic bracket with an adjustable strap. These are "kick-up" mounting brackets. They help prevent damage if the transducer strikes an object while the boat is moving. If the transducer does "kick-up," the bracket can easily be pushed back into place without tools. Read these instructions carefully before attempting the installation. Determine which of the installation methods is right for your boat. Remember, the transducer installation is the most critical part of a sonar installation. Recommended Tools and supplies If you prefer the option of routing the cable through the transom, you will need a 5/8" drill bit. The following installation types also call for these recommended tools and required supplies (supplies are not included):

Transom installation

Tools include: two adjustable wrenches, drill, #29 (0.136") drill bit, flathead screwdriver. Supplies: high quality, marine grade above- or belowwaterline caulking compound.
Trolling motor installations
Tools: two adjustable wrenches, flat-head screwdriver. Supplies: plastic cable ties.
Shoot-through hull installations
Tools: these will vary depending on your hull's composition. Consult your boat dealer or manufacturer. Supplies: 100 grit sandpaper, good quality epoxy adhesive. 4
Selecting a Transducer Location 1. The transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of water at all times. If the transducer is to be mounted inside the hull, then the chosen location must be in the water at all times. If the transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of water, interference caused by bubbles and turbulence will show on the sonar's display in the form of random lines or dots whenever the boat is moving. NOTE: Some aluminum boats with strakes or ribs on the outside of the hull create large amounts of turbulence at high speed. These boats typically have large outboard motors capable of propelling the boat at speeds faster than 35 mph. Typically, a good location on aluminum boats is between the ribs closest to the engine. 2. The transducer should be installed with its face pointing straight down, if possible. 3. If the transducer is mounted on the transom, make sure it doesn't interfere with the trailer or hauling of the boat. Also, don't mount it closer than approximately one foot from the engine's lower unit. This will prevent cavitation (bubble) interference with propeller operation. 4. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps and aerators can be displayed on the sonar's screen. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires.

CAUTION: Clamp the transducer cable to transom near the transducer. This will help prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed.

Good location

Poor location Good location
Good location Poor angle Good and poor transducer locations.
How low should you go? For most situations, you should install your Skimmer transducer so that its centerline is level with the bottom of the boat hull. This will usually give you the best combination of smooth water flow and protection from bangs and bumps.
Transom Transducer centerline
Hull bottom Align transducer centerline with hull bottom.
However, there are times when you may need to adjust the transducer slightly higher or lower. (The slots in the mounting brackets allow you 6
to loosen the screws and slide the transducer up or down.) If you frequently lose bottom signal lock while running at high speed, the transducer may be coming out of the water as you cross waves or wakes. Move the transducer a little lower to help prevent this. If you cruise or fish around lots of structure and cover, your transducer may be frequently kicking up from object strikes. If you wish, you may move the transducer a little higher for more protection. There are two extremes you should avoid. Never let the edge of the mounting bracket extend below the bottom of the hull. Never let the bottom the face of the transducer rise above the bottom of the hull. Shoot-thru-hull vs. Transom Mounting Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability. There is no possibility of damage from floating objects. It can't be knocked off when docking or loading on the trailer. However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks. First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same hull. This is caused by differences in hull lay-up and construction. Second, the transducer angle cannot be adjusted for the best fish arches. This can be a problem on some hulls that sit with the bow high when at rest or at slow trolling speeds. Follow the procedure listed in the shoot-thru-hull installation section at the end of this lesson to determine if you can satisfactorily shoot through the hull. TRANSOM TRANSDUCER ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING The best way to install the transducer is to loosely assemble all of the parts first, place the transducer's bracket against the transom and see if you can move the transducer so that it's parallel with the ground. 1. Assembling the bracket. Press the two small plastic ratchets into the sides of the metal bracket as shown in the following illustration. Notice 7

there are letters molded into each ratchet. Place each ratchet into the bracket with the letter "A" aligned with the dot stamped into the metal bracket. This position sets the transducer's coarse angle adjustment for a 14 transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms have a 14 angle.
Align plastic ratchets in bracket.
2. Aligning the transducer on the transom. Slide the transducer between the two ratchets. Temporarily slide the bolt though the transducer assembly and hold it against the transom. Looking at the transducer from the side, check to see if it will adjust so that its face is parallel to the ground. If it does, then the "A" position is correct for your hull. If the transducer's face isn't parallel with the ground, remove the transducer and ratchets from the bracket. Place the ratchets into the holes in the bracket with the letter "B" aligned with the dot stamped in the bracket. Reassemble the transducer and bracket and place them against the transom. Again, check to see if you can move the transducer so it's parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3. If it doesn't, repeat step 2, but use a different alignment letter until you can place the transducer on the transom correctly.

Ratchets

Insert bolt and check transducer position on transom.
3. Assembling the transducer. Once you determine the correct position for the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the following figure. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.

Nut Metal washer

Rubber washers Bolt

Metal washer

Assemble transducer and bracket.
4. Drilling mounting holes. Hold the transducer and bracket assembly against the transom. The transducer should be roughly parallel to the ground. The transducer's centerline should be in line with the bottom of the hull. Don't let the bracket extend below the hull! Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You will drill one hole in the center of each slot. Drill the holes using the #29 bit (for the #10 screws). 9

Transom Transom

Position transducer mount on transom and mark mounting holes. Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
5. Attaching transducer to transom. Remove the transducer from the bracket and re-assemble it with the cable passing through the bracket over the bolt as shown in the following figures.
Route cable over bolt and through bracket. Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the transducer up or down until it's aligned properly with the bottom of the hull as shown in the preceding and following figures. Tighten the bracket's mounting screws, sealing them with the caulking compound. Adjust the transducer so that it's parallel to the ground and tighten the nut until it touches the outer washer, then add 1/4 turn. Don't over tighten the lock nut! If you do, the transducer won't "kick-up" if it strikes an object in the water. 10

Bottom of hull

Deep-"vee" hull Flat-bottom hull Align transducer centerline with hull bottom and attach to transom.
6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit. Make sure to leave some slack in the cable at the transducer. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from the engine's wiring, bilge pumps, VHF radio wires and cables, and aerators can be picked up by the sonar. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires. WARNING: Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the transducer. This can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed. If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through, the required hole size is 5/8". Caution: If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the mounting screws. 7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the transducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water, hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull! 11
TROLLING MOTOR BRACKET INSTALLATION 1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer. (Note: The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.)

Bolt Internal tooth washer Nut TMB-S bracket

Flat washer

Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.
2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the water. Tighten the strap securely. 3. Route the transducer cable alongside the trolling motor shaft. Use plastic ties (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the motor to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is ready for use.
Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.
TRANSDUCER ORIENTATION AND FISH ARCHES If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because
the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest in the water or at slow trolling speeds.

Partial fish arches

Transducer aimed too far back
Transducer aimed too far forward
Full fish arch Proper transducer angle Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.
If the arch slopes up but not back down then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down and needs to be raised. NOTE: Periodically wash the transducer's face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity or may even prevent operation. 13
SHOOT-THRU-HULL PREPARATION The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials (such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if the material is removed from the chosen area.
Fill with epoxy Flotation material Inner hull
Epoxy to hull first Outer hull Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.

CAUTION: When using the unit in a saltwater environment, we strongly recommend that you shut off the power supply to the power cable when the unit is not in use. When the unit is turned off but still connected to a power supply, electrolysis can occur in the power cable plug. This may result in corrosion of the plug body along with the electrical contacts in the cable and the unit's power socket. In saltwater environments we recommend you connect the power cable to the auxiliary power switch included in most boat designs. If that results in electrical interference, or if such a switch is not available, we recommend connecting direct to the battery and installing an inline switch. This will let you shut off power to the power cable when the unit is not in use. When you are not using the unit, you should always shut off power to the power cable, especially when the power cable is disconnected from the unit.
To unit Optional power off switch for saltwater installations
Black wire 12 volt battery Red wire with 3 amp fuse
Power and transducer connections for the Cuda family sonar units (direct battery connection shown).
If possible, keep the power cable away from other boat wiring, especially the engine's wires. This will provide the best isolation from electrical noise. If the cable is not long enough, splice #18 gauge wire onto it. The power cable has two wires, red and black. Red is the positive lead, black is negative or ground. Make sure to attach the inline fuse holder to the red lead as close to the power source as possible. 17
For example, if you have to extend the power cable to the battery or power buss, attach one end of the fuse holder directly to the battery or power buss. This will protect both the unit and the power cable in the event of a short. It uses a 3-amp fuse. CAUTION: Do not use this product without a 3-amp fuse wired into the power cable! Failure to use a 3-amp fuse will void your warranty. This unit has reverse polarity protection. No damage will occur if the power wires are reversed. However, the unit will not work until the wires are attached correctly. MOUNTING THE SONAR UNIT: In-Dash or Bracket You can install the sonar unit on the top of a dash with the supplied bracket. It can also be installed in the dash with an optional dashmounting kit (FM-5 mount kit for Cuda 168EX, FM-6 mount kit for all others covered in this manual). In-Dash Installation

For the Cuda 168EX

The following figure shows dimensions for in-dash mounting a Cuda 168EX. The in-dash adapter kit includes a template for cutting the mounting hole and complete installation directions on instruction sheet 988-0147-43. NOTE: The Cuda 168EX needs only one cable, but some of the other products covered by the FM-5 instruction sheet use more. When installing your unit, use the instructions for the transducer cable and ignore references to any others.

Use the arrow keys to select a desired zoom size. When you're finished, press PWR to clear the menu from the display.

Enlarged fish arches

Zoom Size menu with the 5-15 foot zoom selected. The boat is in 28 feet of water, but the screen has zoomed in on the water column from 5 to 15 feet below the surface.
You can select from these zoom size ranges: 0-10, 5-15, 10-20, 1530, 20-40, 30-60, 40-80, 60-120, 80-160, 120-140, 160-320, 240-480 and 320-640. SENSITIVITY Sensitivity controls the unit's ability to pick up echoes. If you want to see more detail, try increasing the sensitivity, a little at a time. There are situations when too much clutter appears on the screen. Decreasing the sensitivity can reduce the clutter and show the strongest fish echoes, if fish are present. As you change the sensitivity setting, you can see the difference on the chart as it scrolls. You can change the sensitivity level whether you are in Auto Sensitivity mode or Manual Sensitivity mode. The adjustment method works the same in both modes, but it gives you slightly different results. Adjusting sensitivity in Auto Sensitivity Mode is similar to manually 37
adjusting a car's speed with the accelerator pedal while cruise control is on. You can tell the car to run faster, but when you let off the gas the cruise control automatically keeps you from running slower than the minimum speed setting. In your unit, auto mode will let you increase sensitivity to 100 percent, but the unit will limit your minimum setting. This prevents you from turning sensitivity down too low to allow automatic bottom tracking. When you change the setting with auto turned on, the unit will continue to track the bottom and make minor adjustments to the sensitivity level, with a bias toward the setting you selected. Adjusting sensitivity in Manual Sensitivity Mode is similar to driving a car without cruise control you have complete manual control of the car's speed. In your unit, manual mode allows you to set sensitivity at 100 percent (maximum) or zero percent (minimum.) Depending on water and bottom conditions, the bottom signal may completely disappear from the screen when you reduce sensitivity to about 45 percent or less! Try adjusting sensitivity in both auto and manual modes to see how they work.

Bait school

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fish arches

Fig. 3

Fig. 4
These figures show results of different sensitivity levels on the same location. Fig. 1: Sensitivity at 98 percent, determined by Auto Sensitivity. Typical of full auto mode. Fig. 2: Sensitivity set at 71 percent. Fig. 3: Sensitivity set at 47 percent. Fig. 4: Sensitivity set at 100 percent.
To adjust sensitivity: Press MENU until the SENSITIVITY ADJUSTMENT menu appears. Press UP ARROW to increase the sensitivity, DOWN ARROW to decrease it. When it's set at the desired level, press PWR to clear the menu. 39

Fish arches Fish I.D. symbols
At left, underwater scene in normal fish arch mode. Right, Fish I.D. menu with the feature turned on.
Fish I.D. is an easier way for a sonar novice to recognize a fishy signal return when he sees it. However, locating fish by symbol only has some limitations. Your sonar unit's microcomputer is sophisticated, but it can be fooled. It can't distinguish between fish and other suspended objects such as trotlines, turtles, submerged floats, air bubbles, etc. Individual tree limbs extending outward from a group of limbs are the hardest objects for the Fish I.D. feature to distinguish from fish. To see what's under your boat in maximum detail, we recommend you turn off Fish I.D. and begin learning to interpret fish arches. You may see Fish I.D. symbols on the screen when actually, there are no fish. The reverse is also true Fish I.D. can actually miss fish that are present. Does that mean Fish I.D. is broken? No the feature is simply interpreting sonar returns in a specific way to help take some of the work out of reading the screen. Remember: Fish I.D. is one of the many tools we provide so you can analyze your sonar returns for maximum fish finding information. This and other features can help you successfully "see" beneath the boat under varied water and fishing conditions. So, practice with the unit in both the Fish I.D. mode and without to become more familiar with the feature. This unit's default Fish I.D. setting is on. 42
Fish I.D. is most handy when you're in another part of the boat or performing some task that prevents you from watching the sonar screen. Then, you can turn on Fish I.D. and the audible FISH ALARM. When that lunker swims under your boat, you'll hear it! Fish I.D. can also be useful when you want to screen out some of the sonar detail gathered by your unit. For example, it can help cut through the clutter of suspended bubbles caused by wave action or boat wakes. To turn Fish I.D. off, press MENU until the FISH ID menu appears. Press DOWN ARROW to select OFF, then press PWR. To turn it back on, repeat the above steps, but press UP ARROW to select ON. FISHTRACK The FishTrack feature shows the depth of a fish symbol when it appears on the display. To turn it on, press MENU until the FISH ID menu appears. Press UP ARROW to select TRACK ON, then press PWR. To turn it off, repeat the above steps, but press DOWN ARROW to select OFF. (If you want to turn off FishTrack depths but leave Fish I.D. on, press DOWN ARROW to select ON, then press PWR.) Remember, Fish I.D. must be on in order to use the FishTrack feature.

DEPTH UNITS OF MEASURE This unit can show the depth in feet or meters. To change the depth units of measure, press MENU DOWN until the UNITS menu appears. Use the arrow keys to select the desired unit of measure, then press the PWR key to clear the menu. PRESET UNIT (reset all options) This command is used to reset all features, options and settings to their original factory defaults. This is useful when you have changed several settings and want to return the unit to basic automatic operation. Turn the unit off. Press and hold the DOWN ARROW key and the MENU DOWN key at the same time while you press the PWR key. Release the keys as the unit powers up. The unit will turn on with factory settings restored. SYSTEM INFO To show the operating software system information, press
MENU DOWN until the UNIT INFO menu appears. Press PWR to
clear the screen. SIMULATOR This unit has a built-in simulator that shows a simulated bottom signal with fish signals. This lets you practice with the unit as if you were on the water; all features and functions of the unit are usable. A message appears occasionally to remind you that the simulator is on. To use the simulator, press MENU DOWN repeatedly until the SIMULATOR menu appears. Press UP ARROW to turn it on, and press PWR to clear the menu. Repeat the above steps to turn it off, or you can simply turn the unit off and back on again.
DIGITAL DATA SIZE FOR DEPTH and TEMPERATURE The size of the digital numbers for the depth be changed to medium or large. The digital display for both Depth and Temperature can also be turned off or on. To change either of these options, press MENU DOWN until either the DEPTH SIZE or TEMP SIZE menu appears, then use the ARROW keys to select the desired option. Press the PWR key to clear the menus.

Troubleshooting

If your unit is not working, or if you need technical help, please use the following troubleshooting section before contacting the factory customer service department. It may save you the trouble of returning your unit for repair. For contact information, refer to the last page, just inside the back cover of this manual. Unit won't turn on: 1. Check the power cable's connection at the unit. Also check the wiring. 2. Make certain the power cable is wired properly. The red wire connects to the positive battery terminal, black to negative or ground. 3. Check the fuse. 4. Measure the battery voltage at the unit's power connector. It should be at least 11 volts. If it isn't, the wiring to the unit is defective, the battery terminals or wiring on the terminals are corroded, or the battery needs charging. Unit turns on only in simulator mode: There is a problem with the transducer or the transducer cable. Check the cable for damage. Unit freezes, locks up, or operates erratically: 1. Electrical noise from the boat's motor, trolling motor, or an accessory may be interfering with the sonar unit. Rerouting the power and transducer cables away from other electrical wiring on the boat may help. Route the sonar unit's power cable directly to the battery instead of through a fuse block or ignition switch 2. Inspect the transducer cable for breaks, cuts, or pinched wires. 3. Check both the transducer and power connectors. Make certain both are securely plugged in to the unit. 50

example, turn on the bilge pump and view the sonar display for noise. If no noise is present, turn the pump off, then turn on the VHF radio and transmit. Keep doing this until all electrical equipment has been turned on, their effect on the sonar display noted, then turned off. If you find noise interference from an electrical instrument, trolling motor, pump, or radio, try to isolate the problem. You can usually reroute the sonar unit's power cable and transducer cable away from the wiring that is causing the interference. VHF radio antenna cables radiate noise when transmitting, so be certain to keep the sonar's wires away from it. You may need to route the sonar unit's power cable directly to the battery to isolate it from other wiring on the boat. If no noise displays on the sonar unit from electrical equipment, then make certain everything except the sonar unit is turned off, then start the engine. Increase the RPM with the gearshift in neutral. If noise appears on the display, the problem could be one of three things; spark plugs, alternator, or tachometer wiring. Try using resistor spark plugs, alternator filters, or routing the sonar unit's power cable away from engine wiring. Again, routing the power cable directly to the battery helps eliminate noise problems. Make certain to use the in-line fuse supplied with the unit when wiring the power cable to the battery. When no noise appears on the sonar unit after all of the above tests, then the noise source is probably cavitation. Many novices or persons with limited experience make hasty sonar installations which function perfectly in shallow water, or when the boat is at rest. In nearly all cases, the cause of the malfunction will be the location and/or angle of the transducer. The face of the transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of water at all boat speeds. Read your transducer owner's manual for the best mounting position.
If the dash mount template on page 55 has been removed from this manual, a free replacement manual containing the template can be downloaded from our web site, www.eaglesonar.com.
ALWAYS VERIFY DIMENSIONS. Measure the reference cross-hair below to confirm that this template is printed to the correct scale. The vertical line and the horizontal line should each be 2 inches long (50.8 mm.) Print only at 100% scale do not fit to page, do not enlarge or shrink.
In-dash mounting template for Cuda 128 and Cuda 168. NOTE: This figure is printed to scale. For use with FM-6 mount kit.
EAGLE ELECTRONICS FULL ONE-YEAR WARRANTY
"We," "our," or "us" refers to EAGLE ELECTRONICS, a division of LEI, the manufacturer of this product. "You" or "your" refers to the first person who purchases this product as a consumer item for personal, family, or household use. We warrant this product against defects or malfunctions in materials and workmanship, and against failure to conform to this product's written specifications, all for one (1) year from the date of original purchase by you. WE MAKE NO OTHER EXPRESS WARRANTY OR REPRESENTATION OF ANY KIND WHATSOEVER CONCERNING THIS PRODUCT. Your remedies under this warranty will be available so long as you can show in a reasonable manner that any defect or malfunction in materials or workmanship, or any non-conformity with the product's written specifications, occurred within one year from the date of your original purchase, which must be substantiated by a dated sales receipt or sales slip. Any such defect, malfunction, or non-conformity which occurs within one year from your original purchase date will either be repaired without charge or be replaced with a new product identical or reasonably equivalent to this product, at our option, within a reasonable time after our receipt of the product. If such defect, malfunction, or non-conformity remains after a reasonable number of attempts to repair by us, you may elect to obtain without charge a replacement of the product or a refund for the product. THIS REPAIR, OR REPLACEMENT OR REFUND (AS JUST DESCRIBED) IS THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY AVAILABLE TO YOU AGAINST US FOR ANY DEFECT, MALFUNCTION, OR NON-CONFORMITY CONCERNING THE PRODUCT OR FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE RESULTING FROM ANY OTHER CAUSE WHATSOEVER. WE WILL NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BE LIABLE TO ANYONE FOR ANY SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR OTHER INDIRECT DAMAGE OF ANY KIND. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. This warranty does NOT apply in the following circumstances: (1) when the product has been serviced or repaired by anyone other than us; (2) when the product has been connected, installed, combined, altered, adjusted, or handled in a manner other than according to the instructions furnished with the product; (3) when any serial number has been effaced, altered, or removed; or (4) when any defect, problem, loss, or damage has resulted from any accident, misuse, negligence, or carelessness, or from any failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance in accordance with the instructions of the owner's manual for the product. We reserve the right to make changes or improvements in our products from time to time without incurring the obligation to install such improvements or changes on equipment or items previously manufactured. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which may vary from state to state. REMINDER: You must retain the sales slip or sales receipt proving the date of your original purchase in case warranty service is ever required.

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Eagle Pub. 988-0143-631 Printed in USA 111902
Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved Eagle Electronics

doc1

Installation Guide: Fishfinders
Tools Needed: Wire Strippers Vise Grips Lighter or Heat Gun Marine Goop Electric Drill 13/16 drill bit (2) large pairs of pliers, such as channel locks Phillips head screwdriver Utility Knife Dish soap Duct Tape These instructions are for Eagle and Lowrance fishfinder models with a single power/transducer plug. (eg. Eagle Cuda 168, 242, 250, Lowrance X67C, M68C). Other models may require a larger wire seal and may not withstand the elements quite as well as these proven fishfinders.
STEP 1: DETERMINE LOCATIONS Decide where the fishfinder head unit, transducer and battery will be mounted. Note: The head unit will need to be placed in an area with enough room behind it for the wire seal to fit. Make sure you have access to the underside of this area as well. The transducer must be placed inside the kayak, on a flat surface where it is angled directly downward. It will shoot through the plastic. The battery is also placed inside the kayak. STEP 2: MOUNT THE HEAD UNIT A.) Screw the base in using self tapping stainless steel screws. Make sure the fishfinder is facing straight. B.) Drill a 13/16 hole about 1 directly behind the head unit. STEP 3: INSTALL THE WIRE SEAL
A.) Remove the wire seal from packaging and unscrew the large cap. B.) Inside of the threaded cylinder is a black gasket similar to the grey one but thinner. Remove this gasket by prying it out with a screwdriver. Note the orientation of the gasket as youll be replacing it with the grey one later (which side is up, which is down). C.) Cut off the two small triangular ears on the head of the transducer plug using a utility knife. D.) Place the threaded ring from the wire seal over the head of the plug. E.) Reach inside the kayak and stick the head of the plug up through the 13/16 hole behind the head unit. F.) Stick the plug through the threaded cylinder of the wire seal (dish soap may be necessary) G.) Place the grey gasket over the head of the plug and slide it into the threaded cylinder. H.) Place the large cap over the head of the plug and lightly screw it in place on the threaded cylinder. I.) Stick the threaded cylinder in the hole and adjust the wire to the proper length. J.) Remove wire seal from hole and tighten the cap by using two pairs of pliers. Tighten until the grey gasket has sealed around the wire. K.) Place wire seal back into the hole and screw the threaded ring onto the underside of the wire seal. Hand tighten. STEP 4: MOUNT THE TRANSDUCER A.) Run the transducer and wiring inside of the kayak to the selected location. B.) Place a 6 strip of duct tape across the top side of the transducer, leaving the ends hanging off each side. C.) Make sure the surface is clean and dry. D.) Completely cover the bottom of the transducer with Marine Goop making sure not to leave any gaps or air bubbles (tiny bubbles are ok). E.) Lightly roll the transducer onto the bottom of the kayak and press down firmly once it is straight up and down. Press down tape to keep in place. F.) Tape the wire coming off the transducer in a position which doesnt pull the transducer to one side. G.) It may be necessary to add additional tape to keep the transducer in place. H.) Periodically check to make sure it hasnt shifted. STEP 5: WIRING A.) If extending the wiring is necessary, follow these instructions. If not skip to STEP 6. B.) Carefully strip the ends of the power wires (scissors or the cutting edge of the wire stripper will probably be necessary). C.) Crimp heat shrink butt connectors on each wire using the vise grips.
D.) Strip the ends of additional wire and crimp to the other end of the butt connectors. E.) Heat connectors with a lighter or heat gun until the heat shrink bubbles out of the ends. F.) Extend wire to desired battery location and cut. Make sure to allow for enough slack for easy plugging in and out of battery. If youre using a dry bag for your battery leave enough slack to roll the wiring up in the top of the bag. STEP 6: CONNECT THE BATTERY A.) Cut the loop on the fuseholder and insert fuse. B.) Hold the end of the fuseholder next to the end of the positive wire and cut the positive wire the length of the fuseholder. C.) Connect fuseholder to positive wire using a heat shrink butt connector. D.) If using a dry bag for your battery, connect terminal connectors to the ends of both wires. If using a HookedOnKayaks Battery Box, remove the rubber boot on the male end of the deck connector and slide it onto the wiring. Strip the ends of the wires and back out the set screws in the connector just until you can no longer see them in the cylinders. Stick the wires into the cylinders and screw set screws back in. Cover the back end of the connection with Marine Goop and slide the boot back over the connector. Your installation is now complete. Allow the transducer to dry overnight before contacting water. If you have any further questions please give us a call at (562) 592-0800.

 

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