Capabilities and Specifications: FishEasy 245DS, FishEasy 245DS Portable & SeaFinder 245DS
General Case size:..5.8" H x 4.3" W x 2.5" D (14.7 cm H x 10.8 cm W x 6.6 cm D) sealed, waterproof; suitable for saltwater use. Display:..High-contrast Film SuperTwist LCD. Diagonal viewing area: 4" (10.16 cm). Resolution:..240 pixels (vert.) x 160 pixels (horiz.) resolution; 38,400 total pixels Backlighting:.incandescent backlit screen Input power:.10 to 17 volts DC. Current drain:.170 ma lights off; 240 ma lights on. 1
Back-up memory:.Built-in memory stores sonar settings when unit is turned off. Sonar Frequency:..83/200 kHz. Transducers:.A dual search Skimmer transducer with built-in temperature sensor is packed with your unit. It has a wide fish detection area of up to 60/120 with high sensitivity settings. Operates at boat speeds up to 70 mph (61 kts). Transmitter:..1,500 watts peak-to-peak power (typical); 188 watts RMS power (typical). Sonar sounding depth capability:.1,000 feet (305 meters). Actual capability depends on transducer configuration and installation, bottom composition and water conditions. All sonar units typically read deeper in fresh water than in salt water. Depth display:.Continuous digital readout. Audible alarms:.Deep/shallow/fish. Automatic ranging:.Yes, with instant screen updates. Auto bottom track:.Yes. Zoom bottom track:.Yes. Split-screen zoom:.No. Surface water temp:..Yes, built into transducer. Optional external temperature sensor or combo speed/temp sensor available. NOTICE! The storage temperature for your unit is from -4 degrees to +167 degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees to +75 degrees Celsius). Extended 2
storage in temperatures higher or lower than specified will damage the liquid crystal display in your unit. This type of damage is not covered by the warranty. For more information, contact the factory's Customer Service Department; phone numbers are inside the manual's back cover.

How Sonar Works

Sonar has been around since the 1940s, so if you already know how it works, skip ahead to the next segment on the typographical conventions used in this manual. But, if you've never owned a sonar fish finder, this segment will tell you the underwater basics. Sonar is an abbreviation for SOund NAvigation and Ranging, a technology developed during World War II for tracking enemy submarines. A sonar consists of a transmitter, transducer, receiver and display. In simple terms, here's how it finds the bottom, or the fish: The transmitter emits an electrical impulse, which the transducer converts into a sound wave and sends into the water. (The sound frequency can't be heard by humans or fish.) The sound wave strikes an object (fish, structure, bottom) and bounces back to the transducer, which converts the sound back into an electrical signal. The receiver amplifies this return signal, or echo, and sends it to the display, where an image of the object appears on the scrolling sonar chart. The sonar's microprocessor calculates the time lapse between the transmitted signal and echo return to determine the distance to the object. The whole process repeats itself several times each second.

Single-frequency transom installations
Tools include: two adjustable wrenches, drill, #29 (0.136") drill bit, flathead screwdriver (for mounting screws and their pilot holes). Supplies: none.
Single-frequency trolling motor installations
Tools: two adjustable wrenches, flat-head screwdriver. Supplies: plastic cable ties.
Shoot-through hull installations
Tools: these will vary depending on your hull's composition. Consult your boat dealer or manufacturer. Supplies: 100 grit sandpaper, specially formulated epoxy adhesive available from LEI (see ordering information on the inside back cover). A sandwich hull also requires polyester resin. Selecting a Transducer Location 1. The location must be in the water at all times, at all operating speeds. 2. The transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of water at all times. If the transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of water, interference caused by bubbles and turbulence will show on the sonar's display in the form of random lines or dots whenever the boat is moving. NOTE: Some aluminum boats with strakes or ribs on the outside of the hull create large amounts of turbulence at high speed. These boats typically have large outboard motors capable of propelling the boat 6
at speeds faster than 35 mph. Typically, a good transom location on aluminum boats is between the ribs closest to the engine. 3. The transducer should be installed with its face pointing straight down, if possible. For shoot-thru applications: Many popular fishing boat hulls have a flat keel pad that offers a good mounting surface. On vee hulls, try to place the transducer where the deadrise is 10 or less.

Deadrise less than 10

Strakes Pad Vee pad hull (left); Vee hull (right). A pod style transducer is shown here, but the principle is the same for Skimmers inside a hull.
4. If the transducer is mounted on the transom, make sure it doesn't interfere with the trailer or hauling of the boat. Also, don't mount it closer than approximately one foot from the engine's lower unit. This will prevent cavitation (bubble) interference with propeller operation. 5. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps and aerators can be displayed on the sonar's screen. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires.
CAUTION: Clamp the transducer cable to transom near the transducer. This will help prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed. Good location
Poor location Good location Good location Poor angle Good and poor transducer locations.
How low should you go? For most situations, you should install your Skimmer transducer so that its centerline is level with the bottom of the boat hull. This will usually give you the best combination of smooth water flow and protection from bangs and bumps.

Transducer centerline Transom
Hull bottom Align transducer centerline with hull bottom.
There, however, are times when you may need to adjust the transducer slightly higher or lower. (The slots in the mounting brackets allow you 8
to loosen the screws and slide the transducer up or down.) If you frequently lose bottom signal lock while running at high speed, the transducer may be coming out of the water as you cross waves or wakes. Move the transducer a little lower to help prevent this. If you cruise or fish around lots of structure and cover, your transducer may be frequently kicking up from object strikes. If you wish, you may move the transducer a little higher for more protection. There are two extremes you should avoid. Never let the edge of the mounting bracket extend below the bottom of the hull. Never let the bottom the face of the transducer rise above the bottom of the hull. Shoot-Thru-Hull vs. Transom Mounting In a shoot-thru-hull installation, the transducer is bonded to the inside of the hull with epoxy. The sonar "ping" signal actually passes through the hull and into the water. This differs from a bolt-thru-hull installation (often called "thru-hull"). In that case, a hole is cut in the hull and a specially designed transducer is mounted through the hull with a threaded shaft and nut. This puts the transducer in direct contact with the water. Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability. There is no possibility of damage from floating objects. It can't be knocked off when docking or loading on the trailer. However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks. First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same hull. This is caused by differences in hull lay-up and construction. Second, the transducer angle cannot be adjusted for the best fish arches. This can be a problem on hulls that sit with the bow high when at rest or at slow trolling speeds. Third, a transducer CAN NOT shoot through wood and metal hulls. Those hulls require either a transom mount or a thru-hull installation. 9
Fourth, a Skimmer transducer with a built-in temp sensor will show only the temperature of the bilge, not the water surface temp. Follow the procedure listed in the shoot-thru-hull installation section at the end of this lesson to determine if you can satisfactorily shoot through the hull. Transom Transducer Assembly and Mounting The best way to install these transducers is to loosely assemble all of the parts first, place the transducer's bracket against the transom and see if you can move the transducer so that it's parallel with the ground. 1. Assembling the bracket. Press the two small plastic ratchets into the sides of the metal bracket as shown in the following illustration. Notice there are letters molded into each ratchet. Place each ratchet into the bracket with the letter "A" aligned with the dot stamped into the metal bracket. This position sets the transducer's coarse angle adjustment for a 14 transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms have a 14 angle.

Route cable over bolt and through bracket. Side view shown (left) and seen from above (right).
Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the transducer up or down until it's aligned properly with the bottom of the hull as shown in the preceding and following figures. Tighten the bracket's mounting screws, sealing them with the caulking compound. Adjust the transducer so that it's parallel to the ground and tighten the nut until it touches the outer washer, then add 1/4 turn. Don't over tighten the lock nut! If you do, the transducer won't "kick-up" if it strikes an object in the water.

Bottom of hull

Deep-"vee" hull Flat-bottom hull Align transducer centerline with hull bottom and attach to transom.
6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit. Make sure you leave some slack in the cable at the transducer. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring. Electrical noise from the engine's wiring, bilge pumps, VHF radio wires, cables and aerators can be picked up by the sonar. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires. WARNING: Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the transducer. This can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed. 14
If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through, the required hole size is 5/8". (If you intend to route an additional speed or temp sensor cable through the same hole, you will need a 1" (25.4 mm) drill bit instead.) Caution: If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the mounting screws. 7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the transducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water, hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull! Trolling Motor Bracket Installation 1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer. (Note: The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.)

Internal tooth washer Bolt Nut TMB-S bracket
Flat washer Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.
2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. 15
Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the water. Tighten the strap securely. 3. Route the transducer cable alongside the trolling motor shaft. Use plastic ties (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the motor to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is ready for use.
Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.
Transducer Orientation and Fish Arches If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest in the water or at slow trolling speeds.

Partial fish arches

Transducer aimed too far back
Transducer aimed too far forward
Full fish arch Proper transducer angle Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.
If the arch slopes up but not back down then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down and needs to be raised. NOTE: Periodically wash the transducer's face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity or may even prevent operation. 17
Shoot-Thru-Hull Preparation
Hulls with Flotation Materials
The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials (such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if the material is removed from the chosen area. See the figure below. WARNING: Do not remove any material from your inner hull unless you know the hull's composition. Careless grinding or cutting on your hull can result in damage that could sink your boat. Contact your boat dealer or manufacturer to confirm your hull specifications.
Fill with resin Flotation material Fill with resin Inner hull

Epoxy to hull first

Outer hull
Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.
For example, some (but not all) manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass, then a core of balsa wood, finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass. Removing the inner layer of fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes the outer layer of fiberglass. The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures for 24 hours, fill the remaining space with polyester resin. When the job is finished, the hull is watertight and structurally sound. Remember, the 18

sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. Any air bubbles in the fiberglass or the epoxy will reduce or eliminate the sonar signals.
Transducer location (high speed) Transducer location (trolling speed)
Shoot-thru-hull transducer locations for high speed or trolling speed operation.
Testing Determines Best Location Ideally, the shoot-thru transducer should be installed as close to the transom as possible, close to the centerline. This will give you the best performance during high speed maneuvers. 1. Anchor the boat in about 30 feet of water. Add a little water to the sump of the boat. Plug the transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on, then hold the transducer over the side of the boat in the water. Adjust the sensitivity and range controls until a second bottom echo is seen on the display. (You'll need to turn off Auto Sensitivity, Auto Depth Range and ASP. Try a range setting that is two to three times the water depth. The harder (more rocky) the bottom, the easier it will be to get a second bottom signal.) Don't touch the controls once they've been set. 2. Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in the sump of the boat, face down. (The transducer face is shown in the figure on the following page.) Notice how the signal strength decreases. The second bottom signal will probably disappear and the bottom signal intensity will likely decrease.

True bottom

Second bottom

Manual range setting

Example of a second bottom signal. Unit is in 30 feet of water, with range set at 80 feet and sensitivity set at 87 percent.
3. Now move the transducer around to find the best location with the strongest possible bottom signal. If you find a spot with an acceptable bottom signal, mark the location and move on to step 4. If you can't get an acceptable bottom signal, try turning up the sensitivity by three or five keystrokes and then move the transducer around once more. If you find a spot that works, mark it and move on to step 4. If you have to turn up sensitivity by more than five keystrokes to get a good signal, the transducer should be mounted on the outside of the hull. This is especially true if you have to turn sensitivity all the way up to get a decent bottom signal. 4. Most people can get good results by following steps 1 through 3, so this step is optional. If you want to make an extra effort to be absolutely sure that your selected location will work under all conditions, make a test run with the boat on plane and observe the bottom signal. You'll need to figure some way to prop the transducer into position while you make your test run. (A brick or two might be sufficient to hold it in place.) 5. When you're satisfied with a location, mark it and proceed with the installation. 20
Shoot-Thru-Hull Installation 1. Make sure the area is clean, dry and free of oil or grease, then sand both the inside surface of the hull and the face of the transducer with 100 grit sandpaper. The sanded hull area should be about 1-1/2 times the diameter of the transducer. The surface of the hull must be flat so the entire transducer face is in contact with the hull prior to bonding. After sanding, clean the hull and transducer with rubbing alcohol to remove any sanding debris.

Holes in the brackets base allow wood screw or through-bolt mounting. You may need to place a piece of plywood on the back side of thin panels to reinforce the panel and secure the mounting hardware.

107.5 [4.23] 82.7 [3.26]

156 [6.26]

12.09 [0.48]

76.9 [3.03]

Millimeter [Inch]

70.3 [2.77]
Front view (left) and side view (right) showing dimensions of the FishEasy 245DS and SeaFinder 245DS when mounted on quick release bracket.
Drill a 1" (25.4 mm) hole in the dash for the power/transducer and accessory cables. The best location for this hole is immediately under the gimbal bracket location. This way, the bracket can be installed so that it covers the hole, holds the cables in position and results in a neat installation. Some customers, however, prefer to mount the bracket to the side of the cable hole it's a matter of personal preference. After drilling the hole, pass the connectors up through the hole from under the dash. If you wish, you can fill in the hole around the cable with 25
a good marine caulking compound. (Some marine dealers stock cable hole covers to conceal the opening.)
Using the Quick Release Mounting Bracket
These units use a quick release mounting bracket. When you run the cables through the bracket's cable slots, make sure you allow enough slack for tilting the unit and attaching the connector. (The snug fit of the push-on waterproof connector requires some force to attach.) Align the bracket over the cable hole with the cable slots facing away from you and fit the cable through one of the slots. Fasten the bracket to the dash using the three screw holes.
Ratchet Rear (away from viewer) Screw hole

Power/transducer cable

Cable slot
FishEasy 245DS and SeaFinder 245DS quick release mounting bracket. Slots in the base allow routing the cable from beneath the mount.
Attach the unit to the bracket by first connecting the power/transducer and accessory cables. Then, hold the sonar unit vertically and slide it onto the bracket from above. (The back of the unit should be touching 26
the front of the bracket as you lower it into position.) As you push down, the unit will lock into place with a distinct click. To adjust the viewing angle, pinch the ratchets with one hand, then tilt the unit with your other hand. Release the ratchets and the unit locks into the new position. To dismount the unit for storage, press the ratchets and lift the unit off the bracket.

Portable transducer assembly: rear view (left) and side view (right).
Clean the chosen area of the hull before attaching the suction cup. Locate the transducer on the hull as shown in the following figure. Don't let the bracket extend below the hull, because water pressure against it can cause the suction cup to come off at speed. NOTE: For optimum operation, the portable transducer should be adjusted so that it is parallel to the ground. For more information on this, see the segment in the unit's operation manual on Transducer Orientation and Fish Arches. 31
Tie nylon cord here Suction cup Screw

Bolt Washer

Nut Washer Transducer
Moisten the suction cup, then press it onto the hull as firmly as possible. Tie the nylon cord to the boat and set the power pack and sonar unit in a location for easy viewing. Your portable sonar is now ready for use.
Portable transducer installed on boat transom.
Portable Transducer Storage There is room inside the power pack for the portable transducer. When you're finished fishing, tilt the sonar down to the storage position. Open the case and lay it flat. Unplug the power connector from the battery compartment socket. Wrap the transducer cable around the suction cup, then stow the transducer on top of the battery compartment cover. Close the case and your equipment is ready for transport.
Stow transducer on top of battery cover.

Operation

Keyboard Basics
The unit sounds a tone when you press any key. This tells you the unit has accepted a command. Numbers in the figure correspond to key explanations below:

Eagle FishEasy 245 DS.

1. PWR/CLEAR In this manual, the Power/Clear key is referred to as PWR. Press this key to turn the unit on and off. It also clears menus and menu selections from the screen. To clear a menu from the screen, press PWR. NOTE: Hold the PWR key down for five seconds to turn off the unit. 2. MENU UP & MENU DOWN These keys appear in the manual text as MENU UP or MENU DOWN. Most of the time, you can press either of the menu keys, so in those cases, the text uses the word MENU. Usually, when the instructions say MENU, you can press the MENU UP key for consistency. The MENU UP key cycles forward through the menus. The MENU DOWN key moves backward through the menus. To check out the menus, repeatedly press a MENU key to scroll through them. 3. UP & DOWN ARROWS ( ) These Up and Down arrow keys are referred to as (DOWN) or (UP) in this manual. You will use these keys to adjust most features and functions on your unit.

Memory

This unit has permanent memory that saves the following user settings when power is turned off: Units of Measure, Temp Size, Depth Size, Fish I.D. mode, Noise Reject mode, Range mode, Zoom, Sensitivity, Grayline, Chart Speed, Battery Alarm, Display Contrast, Backlight, Language, Fish Alarm, Battery Alarm and Shallow and Deep alarms. It does not require, nor does it use an internal backup battery, so you never have to worry about replacement batteries.

Grayline scroll bar.

If you have two signals of equal size, one with gray and the other without, then the target with gray is the stronger signal. This helps distinguish weeds from trees on the bottom or fish from structure. Grayline is adjustable. Since Grayline shows the difference between strong and weak signals, adjusting the sensitivity may also require a different Grayline level. The level chosen by the sonar unit at power on is usually adequate for most conditions. Experiment with your unit to find the Grayline setting that's best for you. To change the Grayline level, repeatedly press MENU until the GRAYLINE scroll bar appears. Press to increase Grayline, to decrease it. Echoes scrolling on the screen will show the effects of the Grayline adjustment. If you reach the maximum or minimum level, a tone sounds alerting you to the limits. Press PWR to clear the menu.

Thin or no Grayline

Wider Grayline
A small amount of Grayline indicates a soft bottom (left), probably sand or mud. More Grayline indicates a harder, rocky bottom (right).

Chart Speed

The speed at which echoes scroll across the screen is called the chart speed. The default for this unit is "max" (100 percent). We recommend you leave the scroll speed setting there for most all fishing conditions.

Chart Speed scroll bar.

You, however, might consider experimenting with chart speed when you are stationary or drifting very slowly. 45
Sometimes, you may achieve better images as you decrease the chart speed to match the speed of your boat. If you are at anchor, ice fishing or fishing from a dock, experiment with a chart speed of 25 percent. If you are drifting slowly, try a chart speed of 50 percent. When you are stationary and a fish swims through the sonar signal cone, the image appears on the screen as a long line instead of a fish arch. Reducing the chart speed may result in a shorter line that more closely resembles a regular fish return. To adjust Chart Speed, repeatedly press MENU until the CHART SPEED scroll bar appears. Press to increase the speed of the chart. Press to decrease it. Press PWR to clear the menu. To return to the original setting, repeat the steps above, but use the arrow keys to set the speed to 100% before clearing the menu.
Frequency menu with 200 kHz selected.

Frequency

Your sonar unit can transmit signals at 83 kHz and 200 kHz. The default frequency is 200 kHz, best used in shallow water (about 300 feet or less). This frequency is the best choice for about 80 percent of the 46
fresh and salt water sport fishing applications. When you get into very deep salt water, up to 1,000 feet, the 83 kHz frequency will work best. The 200 kHz transducer will give you better detail and definition, but less depth penetration. You will not get as much detail or definition with the 83 kHz frequency, but it has greater depth penetration and up to 120 of wide fishing finding coverage. Remember, all sonar units typically read deeper in fresh water than in salt water. To switch the Frequency, repeatedly press MENU until the Frequency menu appears. Press to select 200 KHZ or press to choose 83 KHZ. Press PWR to clear the Frequency menu from the screen.

Deep Alarm

To set the deep alarm depth, repeatedly press MENU until DEEP ALARM appears.
Deep Alarm menu (left). Deep Alarm dialog box (right).
Press the to SET VALUE. The Deep Alarm Value dialog box will appear. Use to enter the first number in the dialog box, then press MENU DOWN to move to the next digit. Repeat those steps until the desired depth has been entered in the dialog box. To move the cursor back to any of the previously entered numbers, press MENU UP. Press PWR to return to the Deep Alarm menu. Press to select ON, which will turn on the alarm, then press PWR to clear the menu. When the bottom depth becomes deeper than the alarms setting, an alarm will sound and a message will appear on the screen.

Battery Alarm

To set the battery alarm depth, repeatedly press MENU until BATTERY ALARM appears. Press the to SET VALUE. The Low Battery Alarm Value dialog box will appear. Input a voltage value between 7 and 18 volts. Use the keys to enter the first number in the dialog box, then press MENU DOWN to move to the next digit. Repeat those steps until the desired value has been entered in the dialog box.
Battery Alarm menu (left). Low Battery Alarm Value (right).
To move the cursor back to any of the previously entered numbers, press MENU UP. Press PWR to return to the Battery Alarm menu. Use to select ON, which will turn on the alarm, then press PWR to clear the menu. If the voltage value falls below the alarms setting, the alarm will sound and a message will appear on the screen.

Noise Rejection and ASP

The ASP (Advanced Signal Processing) feature is a noise rejection system built into the sonar unit. It constantly evaluates the effects of boat speed, water conditions and electrical interference and automatically gives you the best display possible under most conditions. ASP is an effective tool in combating noise. In sonar terms, noise is any undesired signal. It is caused by electrical and mechanical sources such as bilge pumps, engine ignition systems, wiring, air bubbles passing over the face of the transducer and even vibration from the engine. In all cases, noise can produce unwanted marks on the display. The ASP noise rejection feature is especially useful because, typically, it lets you operate the boat at all speeds without adjusting the sensitivity or other controls. 53

Try using resistor spark plugs or routing the sonar unit's power and transducer cables away from other electrical wiring on the boat. No fish arches when the Fish I.D. feature is off: 1. Make certain the transducer is pointing straight down. This is the most common problem if a partial arch is displayed. 2. The sensitivity may not be high enough. In order for the unit to display a fish arch, it has to be able to receive the fish's echo from the time it enters the cone until it leaves. If the sensitivity is not high enough, the unit shows the fish only when it is in the center of the cone. 3. Use the Zoom feature. It is much easier to display fish arches when zoomed in on a small range of water than a large one. For example, you will have much better luck seeing fish arches with a 30 to 60 foot range than a 0 to 60 foot range. This enlarges the targets, allowing the display to show much more detail. 4. The boat must be moving at a slow trolling speed to see fish arches. If the boat is motionless, fish stay in the cone, showing on the screen as straight horizontal lines. NOISE A major cause of sonar problems is electrical noise. This usually appears on the sonar's display as random patterns of dots or lines. In severe cases, it can completely cover the screen with black dots, or cause the unit operate erratically, or not at all. To eliminate or minimize the effects of electrical noise, first try to determine the cause. With the boat at rest in the water, the first thing you should do is turn all electrical equipment on the boat off. Make sure the engine is also off. Turn your sonar on, then turn off Noise Reject [also known as the ASP feature (Advanced Signal Processing)]. Sensitivity should be set at 90-95 percent. There should be a steady bottom signal on the display. Now turn on each piece of electrical equipment on the boat and view the effect on the sonar's display. For example, turn on the bilge pump and view the sonar display for noise. 63
If no noise is present, turn the pump off, then turn on the VHF radio and transmit. Keep doing this until all electrical equipment has been turned on, their effect on the sonar display noted, then turned off. If you find noise interference from an electrical instrument, trolling motor, pump, or radio, try to isolate the problem. You can usually reroute the sonar unit's power cable and transducer cable away from the wiring that is causing the interference. VHF radio antenna cables radiate noise when transmitting, so be certain to keep the sonar's wires away from it. You may need to route the sonar unit's power cable directly to the battery to isolate it from other wiring on the boat. If no noise displays on the sonar unit from electrical equipment, then make certain everything except the sonar unit is turned off, then start the engine. Increase the RPM with the gearshift in neutral. If noise appears on the display, the problem could be one of three things; spark plugs, alternator, or tachometer wiring. Try using resistor spark plugs, alternator filters, or routing the sonar unit's power cable away from engine wiring. Again, routing the power cable directly to the battery helps eliminate noise problems. Make certain to use the in-line fuse supplied with the unit when wiring the power cable to the battery. When no noise appears on the sonar unit after all of the above tests, then the noise source is probably cavitation. Many novices or persons with limited experience make hasty sonar installations which function perfectly in shallow water, or when the boat is at rest. In nearly all cases, the cause of the malfunction will be the location and/or angle of the transducer. The face of the transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of water at all boat speeds. Read your transducer owner's manual for the best mounting position.

EAGLE ELECTRONICS FULL ONE-YEAR WARRANTY "We," "our," or "us" refers to EAGLE ELECTRONICS, a division of LEI, the manufacturer of this product. "You" or "your" refers to the first person who purchases this product as a consumer item for personal, family, or household use. We warrant this product against defects or malfunctions in materials and workmanship, and against failure to conform to this product's written specifications, all for one (1) year from the date of original purchase by you. WE MAKE NO OTHER EXPRESS WARRANTY OR REPRESENTATION OF ANY KIND WHATSOEVER CONCERNING THIS PRODUCT. Your remedies under this warranty will be available so long as you can show in a reasonable manner that any defect or malfunction in materials or workmanship, or any non-conformity with the product's written specifications, occurred within one year from the date of your original purchase, which must be substantiated by a dated sales receipt or sales slip. Any such defect, malfunction, or non-conformity which occurs within one year from your original purchase date will either be repaired without charge or be replaced with a new product identical or reasonably equivalent to this product, at our option, within a reasonable time after our receipt of the product. If such defect, malfunction, or non-conformity remains after a reasonable number of attempts to repair by us, you may elect to obtain without charge a replacement of the product or a refund for the product. THIS REPAIR, OR REPLACEMENT OR REFUND (AS JUST DESCRIBED) IS THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY AVAILABLE TO YOU AGAINST US FOR ANY DEFECT, MALFUNCTION, OR NON-CONFORMITY CONCERNING THE PRODUCT OR FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE RESULTING FROM ANY OTHER CAUSE WHATSOEVER. WE WILL NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BE LIABLE TO ANYONE FOR ANY SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR OTHER INDIRECT DAMAGE OF ANY KIND. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. This warranty does NOT apply in the following circumstances: (1) when the product has been serviced or repaired by anyone other than us; (2) when the product has been connected, installed, combined, altered, adjusted, or handled in a manner other than according to the instructions furnished with the product; (3) when any serial number has been effaced, altered, or removed; or (4) when any defect, problem, loss, or damage has resulted from any accident, misuse, negligence, or carelessness, or from any failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance in accordance with the instructions of the owner's manual for the product. We reserve the right to make changes or improvements in our products from time to time without incurring the obligation to install such improvements or changes on equipment or items previously manufactured. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which may vary from state to state. REMINDER: You must retain the sales slip or sales receipt proving the date of your original purchase in case warranty service is ever required. EAGLE ELECTRONICS PO BOX 669, CATOOSA, OK 74015 (800) 324-1354