Tips and Hints - Hi-Fi Modifications

Soundproofing

Why Soundproof ?
As you drive down along the road surface, over rumble strips or cattle grids, the impact the rough surface makes is transferred from the tyres, through the suspension and shocks and finally into the body of the vehicle causing vibration, as the car motion continues, so does the energy to make the car body resonate, creating a noise floor that quickly rises to an annoying drone. Speakers also cause the resonances that affect the body panels of the vehicle. A door mounted mid range speaker can cause the outer skin of the door to vibrate, which in turn causes another part of the door (inner door panel) to also resonate so on and so forth. So the best idea is to apply a sound damping material. Applied in the correct this material will go a long way towards absorbing the resonant energy. Cutting down these resonances will also improve the overall dynamics of the audio system importantly being the mid-bass region. It has been reported that if the installation of this damping material has been installed properly a car can result in a reduction of road noise by upto six decibels, maybe more. In laymans terms that can be the same as 4 times the output of the amps.
http://www.installer.com/

Figure 1

So how much do I use ?
Well the answer is you cant use too much, research from the suppliers of these materials indicates that the single biggest reduction in noise is achieved by dampening the cars floor-pan. (figure 1), then the front bulkhead between the passenger and engine compartments, then the inside of the wheel arches, the door skins, the rear side body panels and finally the boot area including the lid. If you have the money and time you could also do the roof and engine compartment.
What type of damping material should I use ?
There are different types of damping materials from the aerosol kind to the bitumen asphalt types which come in sheet form. The best I my opion is the self-adhesive sheets can be cut installed without much difficulty at all.

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Dynamat Orginal Noise Killer Figure 2
How to soundproof your car
Firstly work out the amount of damping material you need to buy.
Soundproofing the tailgate
Thoroughly clean each mounting area with a quick-drying solvent that is residue free i.e.; (Acetone or Thinners) so removing grease, dirt, oil, wax, moisture and rust. Now with a clean and smooth surface, a permanent bond will be gained. Making a paper template (figure 3) of the area you are going to cover. This should save you material and a good check. It can be very sticky once applied and you will not get the chance to remove it. Using a sharp knife or scissors cut the material to the desired shape. Remove the backing. On larges areas only remove small sections at a time, working your way over the panel. Heating the panel surface with a hairdrier (figure 4) that you are about to apply the material to will ensure a proper and permanent bond. Also heating the material will make the glue stickier and the material more pliable to conform to the body panels, This will keep the material in full contact with the panel maximizing the damping efficiency. Figure 3

Figure 4

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Apply the material to the panel surface starting at the top corner working your way down and across, pressing the material into place. With a small roller, (figure 5) press the material to the surface. Starting from the centre, work it into all contours of the panel, even if the panel is smooth rolling it will ensure lasting adhesion and full contact with the panel surface removing any trapped air. Carry on soundproofing the rest of the boot (figure 6) in the desired areas till you are happy it has stopped the rattles and has enhanced your sound.

Figure 5

Figure 6

Soundproofing the doors

To soundproof the doors you go about it in the same way as you did the boot in the previous section remembering the more you can afford to put on the better the soundproofing will be. Figures 7 and 8 show how I soundproofed the doors of an Vauxhall Astra a few years ago. If you need larger copies of the images found in this document, they can be downloaded in a zip file from : http://www.mitsubishi-fto.org/hifi/soundproofing.zip Some manufacturers of soundproofing products: Dynamat : http://www.dynamat.com/ Noise Killer : http://www.quietnoise.com/nkillers.htm Autoleads : http://www.autoleads.co.uk/ Figure 7 Figure 8
Copyright - 1999 Steve Hemming All photographs are the copyright of the author. It is unlawful to reproduce, retransmit, or distribute in any format (electronic or otherwise) in whole or in part, without written consent of the author. I have taken great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which I can not know of. No liability can be accepted by the authors or distributors for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

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Tips and Hints - Hi-Fi Modifications
Replacing the Rear Speakers
Replacing the rear speakers
The rear speakers in the FTO are what is commonly known as 6 x 9, nearly all car audio manufacturers produce a replacement speaker that fit straight in, but be careful as some 3-way speakers can be quite tall and this may stop you getting the shelf with the grills back on, so check this before you buy them

Removing the rear seat

Pull the rear plastic stopper (2 places) towards you to unclip the base, Then lift up the seat and pull it towards you. (figure 1) This is what you should see now. (figure 2) Unbolt the back part of the rear seat using a 12mm spanner (2 places). (figure 3) You now should see a view like this. (figure 4)

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Removing the rear shelf

The rear shelf is held in place with 2 off phillips screw, remove these and keep safe. (figure 5) If you need to run cables from the front of the car to the rear, it may be necessary to remove the rear quarter panels, if so start with the plastic clip at the top. (figure 6)

Figure 5

Figure 6

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Then unscrew the 3 off phillips screws, (figures 7,8 and 9) and then carefully remove the rear quater panels. Back to the rear speakers, get in boot and push upwards the central plastic tang and about 8 smaller round ones. (figure 10)
Removing existing speakers
Now disconnect the leads from the speakers. Figure 7 By now you should be in a position like this. (figure 11) Now is a great time to clean under that shelf, you won't be back here for a while. Using a very small (due to the rear window shape) phillips screw driver, unscrew the 8 off fixing screws. (figure 12) It is a good idea to put those old speakers in the box the new ones came in, so when you sell the car, they will be kept in good condition. Figure 9 Figure 10 Figure 8
Installing your new speakers
Place the new speaker in the holes on the body work, reconnect your leads or use new ones, depending on your installation and type of speaker. (figure 13)

Figure 11

Figure 12

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The speakers used here have an adjustable tweeter (figure 14) so they require a passive crossover (which comes as part of the new leads). Reconnect and tidy away all loose cables you may have disconnected. (figure 15) If you have a rear wash wipe this plastic thing (figure 16) can be a bitch to get back over the shelf, I found it is best to put the shelf in first, then hook the seal back up after. NOTE You do not need to take out the rear wiper motor. If you need larger copies of the images found in this document, they can be downloaded in a zip file from : http://www.mitsubishi-fto.org/hifi/rearspeaker.zip

Figure 13

Figure 14

Figure 15

Figure 16
Copyright - 1999 Steve Hemming All photographs are the copyright of the author. It is unlawful to reproduce, retransmit, or distribute in any format (electronic or otherwise) in whole or in part, without written consent of the author. I have taken great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which I can not know of. No liability can be accepted by the authors or distributors for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.