BMW R 1150 GS
State-of-the-art replacement seats Seats are built on a precision-molded; lightweight Polytec base pan Each seat features improved foam contours and Super Cell Atomic Foam for increased comfort and support Seat covers are marine-grade; UV-stabilized; mildew-resistant CarbonFX vinyl Most seat applications include under-seat storage cargo areaTwo-up seat models include steel retractable cargo hooks built into seat base pan
Part Numbers: WS-520-19, WS52019
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BMW R 1150 Gs - Catalogue 2010-2011 Motorcycle, size: 13.6 MB
BMW R 1150 GS
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R1100GS R1150GS Maintenance Manual
by Carl Kulow
Send comments/corrections to email@example.com
ISBN R1100-1150CC First Edition Copyright: All Oilhead GS Riders
The author has done his best to produce accurate information. However, he assumes no liability for any damage or injury caused by any errors or omissions in this manual. Use at your own risk.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE..... 4 PARTS AND TOOL LIST..... 5
Cold Engine and Drivetrain Procedures
ALTERNATOR BELT..... 6 VALVE ADJUSTMENT..... 7 SPARK PLUGS...... 10 AIR FILTER..... 11 LUBE SIDESTAND AND CENTERSTAND..... 12 CLUTCH CABLE..... 12 BRAKE AND CLUTCH FLUID..... 13 BRAKE PADS...... 14 BATTERY INSPECTION..... 15 FUEL FILTER..... 16 MISCELLANEOUS...... 17 SUMP GUARD REMOVAL..... 18 TEST RIDE...... 18
Hot Engine and Drivetrain Procedures
THROTTLE BODY SYNC.... 19 ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE.... 21 TRANSMISSION GEAR OIL CHANGE..... 22 REAR WHEEL DRIVE GEAR OIL CHANGE.... 23 SUMP GUARD INSTALLATION.... 23
BRAKE PAD REPLACEMENT..... 24 TIRE CHANGE..... 26
Service Every 6K Miles
Engine oil and filter - change
Brake fluid check Brake pads check Clutch fluid check Sidestand grease Sidestand switch check Spark plugs check Valves adjust Throttle cables check Throttle Bodies - synchronize
Inspection Every 12K Miles
Transmission gear oil change Rear drive gear oil change (every 24K miles) Fuel filter change (every 24K miles) Battery fluid level check Battery electrolyte level, clean/grease terminals Air filter change Alternator belt change (every 36K miles, some R1100GS at 24K miles) Wheel bearing play check Swing arm bearing play check Spark plugs change
Brake fluid change Clutch fluid change (every 2 years)
socket set, metric hex bit socket set (allen), metric (Sears) ratchet extensions wrenches open end/box, metric hex wrenches (allen T-handle), metric torque wrench pliers screwdrivers feeler gauges oil filter wrench oil drain pan motorcycle toolkit (BMW) rubber gloves (dishwashing) flashlight, minimag measuring cylinder (photo store) Twin Max Mityvac or one man brake bleeder tire change tools (see tire change instructions)
Parts spark plugs oil filter air filter brake pads oil - 4 qt. gear oil - 1 1/4 qt. alternator belt fuel filter, o-ring, clamps crush washers for: - oil drain plug - transmission fill and drain plugs - rear drive fill and drain plugs Misc. compressed air anti seize paste carb or brake cleaner rags BMW #10 grease flexible tubing (tygon) grease chain lube brake fluid (DOT 4) distilled water
Check Alternator Belt
Tools T-handle hex 4mm Parts none
1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Check the belt for cracks or shredding. 4. Check the belt tension, quite tight, ~1/4 deflection when you press on the center. Note: Paul Glaves suggests that proper belt tension is when you can twist the belt ~90 degrees, midway between the pulleys. If you can twist it more than 90 degrees, it is too loose. If you cannot twist it 90 degrees, then it is too tight. 5. Leave the cover off for the valve adjustment procedure on the next page.
Change Alternator Belt
Tools T-handle hex 4mm socket 13mm ratchet wrench 13mm torque wrench Parts alternator belt
1. Remove the four bolts holding the black plastic alternator belt cover at the front of the engine, 4mm T-handle hex. 2. Remove the cover by sliding it straight down. 3. Loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, that hold the alternator one is on top and one is on each side, thus allowing the alternator to pivot down. 4. Remove the old belt. 5. Install the new belt being sure it is properly seated. 6. BMW calls for a tensioning torque of 5.9 ft.lb. (8 Nm) on the adjuster bolt on the left side of the bike. You have to get at this bolt from the alternator side and you may have to lift the tank. Alternatively, you can pry the alternator up with a large screwdriver to tension the belt. 7. Once the belt is under proper tension, tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, 13mm, to 15 ft.lb. (20 Nm). 8. Check the belt for proper tension (see above) and proper seating alignment.
Tools T-handle hex 3mm, 5mm, 6mm plug wire cap puller sparkplug socket short extension ratchet rag hex socket - 6mm long thin screwdriver box wrench 10mm, 17mm small flashlight feeler gauges sharp awl Parts none
1. Remember engine cold! 2. Bike on centerstand. 3. Transmission in neutral. 4. Remove the black plastic valve cover protectors, if installed, using a 5mm Thandle hex wrench. 5. Remove the black valve cover strip by pulling outward on the end where the plug wire goes under it. 6. Pull the plug wire cap off the sparkplug using the special black plastic tool in your BMW tool kit. 7. Before removing the sparkplug, blow compressed air around the plug well there is often dirt here that can fall into the cylinder when you remove the spark plug!!! Note: If you do not have an air compressor, you can get a compressed air tank at any Xmart automotive department, or you can get a small can of compressed air at any photo or computer supply store. 8. Repeat again after turning the spark plugs a couple of turns. 9. Remove the spark plugs using the tool kit spark plug socket or 5/8 in. deep well very thin wall socket. Warning!: It is very easy to get a spark plug socket stuck in the plug well. If your socket does not slide onto the spark plug easily, do not use it!!! Use the spark plug socket in the BMW tool kit instead. I welded a nut onto the end of my BMW socket so I could use a torque wrench on it when installing the spark plugs. 10. Place an oil drain pan under the valve cover. 11. Remove both valve covers using a 6mm hex socket and ratchet. Note: Loosen the valve cover bolts until you can pull them part way out. They stay in the valve cover do not try to pull them all the way out.
Note: The valve covers may stick slightly and you will need to tap them firmly with the palm of your hand. Note: Be careful not to dislodge the black rubber vibration damper block in the bottom front of the valve adjustment area (not on some R1100GS). 12. Remove the black rubber timing hole plug, located above and behind the right side throttle body, using a long thin screwdriver to pry it off. 13.Turn the lower alternator pulley clockwise with a 17mm box wrench. 14. Insert a long screwdriver into the right side spark plug hole while turning the engine over. 15. When the screwdriver is almost pushed out the maximum, use a flashlight and start looking for the timing marks S OT in the small timing window where you removed the rubber plug. (R1100GS = Z S OT) 16. Center the OT mark in the window. Note: Also at OT, the arrow on the cam chain gear will be pointing straight out. 17. Wiggle the valve rockers in and out on both sides - both the intake and exhaust valve rockers for one side should wiggle slightly in and out, the rockers on the other side should be tight. 18. You will be adjusting the valves on the side where they all wiggle slightly as follows: Valve Clearance Intake =.006in. (.15mm) Exhaust =.012in. (.30mm) Valve Location Intake Valves are to the rear (take air/gas in from the throttle body). Exhaust Valves are to the front (exhaust to the exhaust pipes). 19. Adjust the proper valves, as described above, using a 10mm box, 3mm hex T-handle, and feeler gauge(s). Note: Each intake and exhaust has two valves each that are operated by a forked rocker. Correct procedure calls for you to use two identical feeler gauges simultaneously one for gauging the valve you are adjusting, and the other as a spacer on the other valve. This is to prevent the rocker from canting while you are adjusting it. Many people get excellent results using only one feeler gauge and skip the spacer feeler gauge. 20. Insert the correct feeler gauge between the valve stem and the adjuster screw. There should be slightly firm drag on the feeler gauge be sure that you do not have the gauge canted or curved as you are measuring.
Note: One method is to insert the feeler gauge and tighten the adjuster until the feeler gauge will not slide, then back off the adjuster a little until the feeler gauge begins to slide. Note: You can use the go, no go method a.008in. gauge should not go into the.006 intake; a.014 should not go into a.012 exhaust if adjusted properly. A.007 gauge will go into the.006 intake and a.013 gauge will go into the.012 exhaust, but will give a too tight drag. 21. If any valve needs adjusting, loosen the adjuster lock nut with a 10mm box wrench and turn the adjuster screw with a 3mm hex T-handle to get the correct clearance slightly firm drag on the feeler gauge. 22. Slide the box wrench over the shaft of the 3mm hex T-handle and hold the adjuster screw with the 3mm hex T-handle while tightening the lock nut with the 10mm box wrench. 23. After tightening, double-check the clearance. 24. Rotate the engine 360 degrees to the same OT mark by turning the lower alternator pulley clockwise with a 17mm box wrench as in step 13. 25. Check the rockers on the other side for wiggle they should all wiggle slightly 26. Now adjust the valves on this other side. 27. Clean the valve covers of any dirt or oil on its sealing edge. 28. Wipe the oil off the valve cover gasket to help ensure no oil leaks. Place it onto the head so that the edge with 3 notches goes to the top. Be sure all the notches are fit into the corresponding studs on the head. 29. Be certain the center donut gasket is in place on the valve cover!!! 30. Carefully replace the valve cover so as not to dislodge the center donut gasket. 31. Evenly tighten the 6mm hex bolts until they bottom out - 6 ft.lb (8 Nm). 32. Replace the small black rubber timing hole plug. Warning!: Be careful!!! It is fairly easy to push it all the way through. I use a sharp awl and stab the plug in the center to hold it. I then place the plug so its right lip is under the timing hole edge and then use a long thin screwdriver to push the left lip into place. 33. Leave the black valve cover strips and the valve cover protectors off until you are done with the spark plugs in the next procedure.
Tools T-handle hex 5mm, 6mm plug wire cap puller sparkplug socket short extension ratchet rag hex socket - 6mm small flashlight spark plug gauge torque wrench anti-seize paste Parts spark plugs
1. The spark plugs were removed in steps of the preceding valve adjustment procedure. Be sure to read the Warning! following step 9 of the valve adjustment procedure. 2. Replace plugs every 12K miles. 3. Visually inspect the spark plugs and check each for abnormalities carbon or oil deposits, burned or cracked electrodes, etc. 4. If installing new plugs (every 12K miles), check that they are still set at the factory set gap of.031 in (0.8mm). 5. Very lightly coat the plug threads with anti-seize. 6. Install the plugs by hand using only the spark plug socket to avoid any possibility of crossthreading them. 7. Torque the plugs to 15 ft.lb.(20 Nm). 8. Push the spark plug wire caps firmly onto the spark plugs. 9. Replace the black valve cover strips by putting the two rear tits into place at the spark plug wire and then pushing the front in until it snaps into place. 10. Replace the valve cover protectors using the 5mm hex T-handle start the bottom center bolt first - short screw goes to the front. 11. Replace the alternator cover try to get the oil line brackets lined up first and start the top right bolt first since you may need to push the oil line bracket to get the bolt started same with the bottom right bolt.
Tools phillips screwdriver rag compressed air Parts air filter
1. Remove the rear and then the front seats. 2. Unscrew the two phillips screws holding the air filter cover down (R1100GS has clips). 3. Pivot the cover up. 4. Remove the old filter and inspect it for damage or replace it with a new one. 5. Place a rag tightly over the air intake where the air filter sat and blow all the dirt and dead bugs out of the filter housing and air horn. 6. Insert the air filter being careful to seat it properly. 7. If the cover hinges came unhooked from their holes, pivot the cover up as high as it will go and hook the hinge tabs into their holes by pivoting the cover down. 8. Fasten the cover by tightening the two phillips screws. Warning!: The air filter housing is a prime candidate for a mouse nest and the air filter for use as nesting material. Especially after winter storage be sure to check your air filter. Or screen off the air horn opening during storage so the mice cant get in there in the first place.
Lube Side Stand and Center Stand
Tools wire grease gun chain lube Parts none
1. Remove the debris from the small grease hole (not found on some R1100GS) at the rear of the pivot point on the side stand using a small wire or carb or brake cleaner if necessary. 2. Use a cone tip adapter on your grease gun to grease the side stand or use chain lube. 3. Spray the center stand pivot bushings with chain lube.
Lube and Adjust Clutch Cable (R1100GS)
Tools phillips screwdriver Parts #10 grease
1. Adjust maximum slack at the clutch lever 2. At the rear of the transmission pry the clutch release arm to release the clutch cable there 3. Lube both ends of the clutch cable with BMW #10 grease 4. Reattach the cable at the transmission 5. Using the knurled adjuster at the hand lever adjust to 12mm between it and the knurled locknut 6. At the clutch release arm loosen the 13mm locknut using a 13mm deepwell socket and swivel 7. Adjust the 10mm bolt to give 7mm freeplay at the hand clutch lever 8. Pull in the hand clutch lever while tightening the locknut at the rear clutch arm
Brake and Clutch Fluid
Tools phillips screwdriver towel Parts brake fluid
Note: R1100GS does not have a hydraulic clutch. See previous procedure. Note: Brake fluid can ruin the bikes paint, so cover the tank and any painted or plastic parts with a towel if you are adding or changing fluid!!! Front Brake Fluid Reservoir 1. Put the bike on the centerstand. 2. Turn the handlebar straight ahead so the reservoir on the right handlebar is level. 3. Check the fluid level in the sight glass of the reservoir. 4. Add only DOT 4 brake fluid if the level is at or below the LOWER level mark.
Rear Brake Fluid Reservoir 1. Put the bike on the centerstand. 2. Check the fluid level in the rear reservoir which is located on the right side just below the seat. 3. Add only DOT 4 brake fluid if the level is at or below the LOWER level mark. Note: If either the front or rear is low on fluid, be sure to check the brake pads for wear! As the pads wear, more fluid is taken into the system. Clutch Fluid Reservoir 1. Same as Front Brake Fluid Reservoir above, but on the left handlebar.
Brake and Clutch Fluid Replacement Bleeding the Brakes Note: BMW calls for a fluid change annually. Good brakes are too important to skip this relatively straightforward procedure. Note: There are some devices that aid in bleeding the brakes as you replace the fluid: 1. Mityvac is a small hand held vacuum pump that sucks the brake fluid down and out through the bleeder nipple at each brake caliper. It is available at most auto parts stores. 2. Speed Bleeder is a one way valve bleeder nipple that replaces your stock bleeder nipples. It is available at www.speedbleeder.com
3. One Man Brake Bleeder is a one way valve that attaches to your stock bleeder nipple via a hose. It is available at some auto parts stores. 4. A turkey baster is handy for removing the old fluid from the reservoir before you add the fresh fluid. Once you use it for brake fluid, do not return it to the kitchen. Note: If bleeding by the standard method of pumping the lever, do not pull the lever all the way to the handlebar or you will force the caliper piston too far out and possibly ruin the seal. This applies to the clutch and rear brake as well. Note: On the 1150 GS, BMW has a plug or grub screw instead of a bleeder nipple on the right front brake caliper and on the clutch slave cylinder. BMW wants you to replace these with a bleeder nipple to bleed the system and to then reinstall the grub screw when you are finished. Note: For brake bleeding procedures see R1100 Tune Up Manual at http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/index.shtml
Tools phillips screwdriver Parts brake pads
Note: Check front and rear pads for wear and replace them if they have less than 1 mm of pad left. Remove the right saddle bag so you can do a good inspection of the rear pads. Note: If either the front or rear brake fluid reservoir is low on fluid, be sure to check the brake pads for wear! As the pads wear, more fluid is taken into the system. Note: For replacement of the pads, see R1100 Tune Up Manual at http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/index.shtml
Note: Be sure to check the brake fluid reservoir after replacing the pads as fluid is forced back into the reservoir by the new thicker pads the reservoir may be too full.
Tools flashlight, minimag phillips screwdriver hex socket 6mm ratchet Parts distilled H2O
Quick Check Method 1. Place the bike on the centerstand. 2. Remove the front seat. 3. Hold a minimag flashlight right up against the batttery, at the expected electrolyte level, and next to the cell you are checking. Note: I have a 4 cell minimag type flashlight that is brighter and works somewhat better than a minimag. 4. Gently rock the bike so that the battery electrolyte sloshes back and forth. It is this movement of the electrolyte that you are able to see. 5. Repeat for the other cells. 6. If the electrolyte level is low, follow the Standard Method below. 7. Reinstall the front seat.
Standard Method 1. Remove the seats. 2. Remove the right side black plastic panel below the fuel tank. 3. Remove the fuel tank bolt, 6mm hex socket, right side of fuel tank. 4. Raise the back of the tank and support it with a block of wood. 5. Remove the rubber battery strap. 6. Check the battery electrolyte level. 7. Fill to the max level with distilled water only. 8. Clean and grease the battery terminals. 9. Reinstall the fuel tank being sure the black rubber connectors at the front of the tank are in place. 10. Buy a sealed maintenance free battery and skip steps 1 9. 11. Leave the tank off if you are doing a fuel filter change.
Tools siphon empty gas can rubber gloves pencil hex bit socket 6mm socket 8mm ratchet Parts fuel filter large tank o-ring 2 small hose clamps 2 tiny hose clamps
Note: I have not done this procedure on an R1150GS yet, so the following is based on the procedure for my R1100R which should be similar. 1. Ride the bike until you are almost out of gas or siphon the gas from the tank. 2. Remove the seats. 3. Remove the right side black plastic panel below fuel tank. 4. Remove the fuel tank bolt, 6mm hex bit socket, right side of fuel tank. 5. Set the tank to the side of the bike lawn chair with an old blanket to prevent scratching the tank. 6. With the tank on its side, remove the fuel pump plate, 8mm socket. 7. Disconnect the fuel overflow and vent hoses the 2 small hoses inside the tank, noting which hose goes where. Warning! Do not get any of the hoses mixed up! Label them. 8. Remove the pump unit from the tank. 9. Replace the fuel filter noting the direction of flow. 10. Reconnect the new fuel filter using the 2 small hose clamps. 11. Insert a new o-ring into the tank groove. 12. Insert the pump unit into the tank. 13. Reconnect the 2 small hoses being sure to connect the striped hose to the striped hose using the 2 tiny hose clamps. 14. Evenly tighten the fuel pump plate, 8mm socket. 15. Install the fuel tank. 16. Check for any leaks
Tools tire gauge sockets hex bit sockets ratchet torque wrench powdered graphite Parts none
1. Check tires for nails, tread wear, damage, etc. 2. Check tire pressure. 3. Check rear wheel lug bolts, 17mm socket, torque to 105 Nm. 4. Check the front wheel axle bolt, 30 Nm, - axle clamp bolts, 22 Nm. 5. Check all nuts and bolts. 6. Check all lights. 7. Check horn. 8. Check all air and oil hose clamps. 9. Check the throttle cables. 10. Check for debris in the throttle cable pulleys. 11. Check rotor rivets. 12. Lube locks with powdered graphite. 13. Check the front wheel bearing. 14. Check the rear wheel bearing. 15. Check the swing arm bearings. 16. Check the spokes front and rear tap them with a box wrench, if they are properly tensioned they will ping at various pitches when tapped. If too loose, you will hear more of a thud sound tighten the spoke until it pings. It is generally recommended that you do NOT try to true these wheels yourself, only tighten the occasional loose spoke. 17. Splines it is generally considered that the splines do not require lube maintenance. If you find it necessary to do a spline lube see R1100 Tune Up Manual at http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/index.shtml for a detailed procedure.
Sump Guard Removal
Tools socket 10mm ratchet channel lock pliers Parts loctite(?)
Note: Before you do the test ride, remove the sump guard (skid/bash plate) from the bottom of the engine in preparation for the oil and filter change after your test ride. It is much more pleasant to do before the engine is hot.
1. Remove the four nuts holding the sump guard on, using a 10mm socket and ratchet Note: If the rear (or front) studs come out with the nuts, loctite the studs into the engine block after you remove the nuts. Once off, the nuts can be removed by holding the rubber spacer with channel lock pliers. The rear nuts are self-locking and will remove more easily after a few removals. (R1100GS may have the selflocking nylock nuts front and rear). 2. Clean the stones, dirt, and dried mud from the sump guard plates. Note: If you do not ride your GS offroad, you can consider leaving the sump guard plates off permanently.
Test Ride Bike
1. Take the bike out for a test ride, ~15 min., to get the bike to operating temperature for the throttle body sync and fluid changes in the next several procedures. 2. After the ride, check for oil leaks around the valve covers.
(i.e. normal operating temperature)
Throttle Body Sync
Tools Twin Max or carb stix screwdriver, flat blade needle nose pliers wrench, 10mm house fans Parts none
Note: If you are doing this procedure for the first time, you should seat the brass bypass screw and record the number of turns for each. Return the screws to where you found them. Also make a note of the number of threads at some reference point on the right throttle body cable adjuster. All this is so you can get back to the same starting point if you mess up. 1. Engine hot at the normal operating temperature of 5 bars on the RID. 2. Bike on the centerstand. Note: If you are experienced with this procedure, it only takes a couple of minutes including several double checks. If you have never done a throttle body (TB) sync or your TBs are really out of sync, it could take much longer and you should place 1 or 2 house fans blowing on your engine to help keep it from overheating. Note: You may need to slacken the throttle body cables. See R1100 Tune Up Manual at http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/index.shtml 3. Warm up the Twin Max to help prevent drifting from the zero calibration setting. 4. Remove the vacuum hoses from the bottom of each throttle body (TB). 5. Attach the Twin Max hoses to each TB, left hose to the left TB, right hose to the right TB. 6. Calibrate the Twin Max by setting the sensitivity to max and then zero the needle.
Transmission Gear Oil Change
Tools hex bit socket 8mm socket 13mm ratchet short extension oil drain pan carb or brake cleaner torque wrench clear tubing (tygon) funnel measuring cylinder (photo store) rag Parts gear oil, synthetic (75W/90) 1000cc crush washers - drain plug - fill plug
1. Put the bike on the centerstand. 2. Place the oil drain pan under the drain plug. 3. Remove the drain plug on the right side of the transmission just above the brake pedal, 8mm bit hex socket. (R1100GS transmission drain plug is just below the fill plug, hidden up the tunnel, 13mm socket). 4. Remove the fill plug on the right side of the transmission just above the drain plug, 8mm hex bit socket. 5. Clean the metal filings from the magnetic drain plug using a rag and carb or brake cleaner. 6. Install the drain plug using a new crush washer, torque to 22 ft.lb. (30 Nm). (Some R1100GS do not use a crush washer on the transmission drain plug). (Some R1100GS torque the drain plug to 17 ft.lb. (23 Nm)). 7. Fill the transmission with 1000cc (1.06 qt.) of synthetic gear oil using the flexible tubing and a funnel fill to the bottom edge of the filler hole. Note: I use tygon tubing from the hardware store one end goes into the fill hole and a funnel is inserted into the other end. 8. Install the fill plug using a new crush washer, torque to 22 ft.lb. (30 Nm) (Some R1100GS torque the fill plug to 17 ft.lb. (23 Nm)).
Rear Wheel Drive Gear Oil Change
Tools socket 19mm hex bit socket 6mm ratchet oil drain pan carb or brake cleaner torque wrench funnel measuring cylinder (photo store) rag Parts gear oil, synthetic (75W/90) 250cc crush washers - drain plug - fill plug
1. Put the bike on the centerstand. 2. Remove the right saddle bag. 3. Place the oil drain pan under the drain plug. 4. Remove the drain plug on the bottom center of the rear wheel hub, 19mm socket. 5. Remove the fill plug at the rear of hub, 6mm hex bit socket. 6. Clean the metal filings from the magnetic drain plug using a rag and carb or brake cleaner. 7. Install the drain plug using a new crush washer, torque to 17 ft.lb. (23 Nm). 8. Fill the rear wheel drive with 250cc (0.26 qt.) of synthetic gear oil using a funnel fill to the bottom inside edge of the filler hole threads. 9. Install the fill plug using a new crush washer, torque to 17 ft.lb. (23 Nm).
Sump Guard Installation
Tools socket 10mm ratchet Parts none
1. Reinstall the sump guard (skid/bash plates), 10mm socket. Note: The front nuts with their metal sleeve will tighten up normally. However, the rear nylock nuts will not get tight because of the rubber spacers above the plates so just tighten them until they are snug. (R1100GS may have the self-locking nylock nuts front and rear).
Rear 1. Place the bike on the centerstand. 2. Remove the saddlebags. 3. Remove the keeper from the pin. 4. Drive out the pin from the keeper side (drive toward the wheel). 5. Remove the caliper bolts that hold it to the rear drive, 8 mm hex bit socket. 6. To remove the caliper, gently rock it back and forth on the rotor to spread the brake pads. Warning! Do NOT compress the rear brake pedal while the calipers are removed! 7. Remove the old pads. 8. Grind or file the EBC pads to fit (see note above). 9. Insert new pads. 10. Drive the pin in. 11. Insert the keeper. 12. Install the caliper onto the rotor. 13. Install the caliper bolts, torque to 30 ft.lb. (40 Nm). 14. Pump the rear brake pedal until pressure returns!!!!! 15. Check the brake fluid level in the rear reservoir.
Tools hex bit socket 6, 8mm ratchet socket 17mm screwdriver pencil wood frame of 2x2 (16 sq. OD) bead breaker (JC Whitney) balancing stand (homemade) tire irons, 3 tire lube paint brush (for applying lube) valve core tool heavy rubber mallet razor knife dish soap compressed air supply alcohol rag torque wrench short extension rear wheel axle adapter (BMW) axle to fit adapter (BMW) tape grease Front Wheel Removal 1. Place the bike on the centerstand. 2. Weight the rear of the bike so it will not rock forward. 3. Remove both sets of calipers, 8mm hex bit socket to remove the 2 bolts holding each caliper to the bottom of the fork leg 4. To remove the caliper, gently rock it back and forth on the rotor to spread the brake pads. Warning! Do NOT compress the front brake lever while the calipers are removed! 5. Remove the axle nut (bolt) from the left end of the axle, 17mm socket 6. Loosen the axle clamp bolts several turns, 6mm hex bit socket. 7. Note carefully the orientation of the speedometer drive unit so you get it installed correctly later on!!! 8. Insert a screwdriver into the end of the axle and pull and twist to remove the axle while supporting the tire (watch for the spacer on the right side). 9. Roll the wheel out. 10. Now is a good time to take a good look at the brake pads. 11. Check the front wheel bearing. Parts tires wheel weights
Front Tire Change Hints: Warm the tires in the sun! A warm tire goes on much more easily. When levering the last of the tire bead onto the wheel, be absolutely certain the opposite bead is not seated but rather squeezed into the middle of the wheel. Put just the wheel, no tire on it, on the balancing stand and check for the heavy spot and use that rather than the tire stem for the heaviest spot. Tire Removal 1. Place the wheel on the wooden support frame to prevent rotor damage (or remove the rotors, 5mm hex bit socket). 2. Mark the direction of rotation on the wheel so you dont put the new tire on backwards! 3. Remove the valve core with the valve core tool being careful not to let it get launched. 4. With the wheel in the wooden frame, break the bead all around on both sides with the bead breaker being careful that it does not slide into the wheel and scratch it 5. Lube the bead on one side with tire lube. 6. Pry off the first side with 2 or 3 tire irons (tape them with electrical tape or duct tape to avoid scratching the wheel). Note: The GS has very thick rim edges and regular rim protectors do not fit. Also because of the thick rim edges, tire irons tend to slip off unless you insert them a little farther than usual. Note: There is a bit of a trick to getting the second side off. Proceed as follows: 7. Lube the second bead extra well this is the hard one to remove. 7. Stand the tire and wheel vertical 8. With 1 or 2 tire irons reach into the wheel and pry the second side over the edge of the wheel (pry it part way off) and hold it there under tension. 9. Take the heavy rubber mallet and pound the tire off the rest of the way. 10. Clean the wheel of any dirt. Clean off any old rubber from the wheel where the tire seals. 11. Remove the old wheel weights with a razor knife and alcohol. 12. Balance just the wheel to confirm (or not) that the valve stem is the heaviest spot. Mark the heavy spot if different than the valve stem. Tire Installation 13. Align the painted tire balance dot with the tire stem or heavy spot on the wheel!!! and the correct direction of rotation!!! 14. Lube the first bead of the new tire and push it on with hands, knees, feet and tire iron. 15. Lube the second bead and push it down with hands, knees, feet ~ the way on.
16. Using three tire irons pry the tire on the rest of the way - the real secret is to be sure the opposite side of the tire is squeezed into the center of the wheel (use bead breaker if necessary). 17. Double check alignment of tire balance dots with the valve stem!!! 18. Double check the direction of rotation. 19. Insert the valve core, inflate to seat tire, inflate to 40 psi you should hear a loud pop as each side seats. 20. Mix up some soap bubbles and check the bead/wheel seal on both sides and check the valve core for leaks. 21. Check that the thin tire ridge is evenly spaced all the way around the wheel.
Front Tire Balance 1. Insert the axle into the wheel and place on the balancing stand. 2. Determine balance by taping assorted weights to the wheel. 3. Precurve the whole weight ribbon to same curvature as the wheel. 4. Clean the wheel with alcohol before sticking the weight on.
Front Wheel Installation 1. (Reinstall the rotors if you removed them, 24 Nm plus Loctite 243). 2. Grease the axle lightly. 3. Roll the wheel in geared ABS teeth to the left side of the bike. 4. Lift the wheel slightly and start the axle from the right side of the bike and insert the right side spacer and the left side speedo drive - the tab on top of the speedo drive goes in front of the tab on the inside of the left fork leg. 5. Tighten the axle nut (bolt),17mm socket, torque to 22 ft.lb.(30 Nm). 6. Gently pry the brake pads apart with a tire iron. 7. Install the calipers, 8mm hex bit socket, torque to 30 ft.lb (40 Nm). 8. Pump the front brake lever until pressure returns!!!!! 9. With the bike off the centerstand compress the front forks several times with the rear brake applied. 10. With the bike on the sidestand tighten the axle clamp bolts, 6mm hex bit socket, torque to 16 ft.lb (22 Nm). 11. Pump the front brakes!!!
Rear Wheel Removal 1. Place the bike on the centerstand. 2. Block up the bike under the catalytic converter so the rear tire is up off the floor 3. Put the bike into first gear. 4. Remove both saddlebags. 5. Remove the rear brake caliper by removing the caliper bolts that hold it to the rear drive, 8 mm hex bit socket. 6. To remove the caliper, gently rock it back and forth on the rotor to spread the brake pads. Warning! Do NOT compress the rear brake pedal while the calipers are removed! 7. Remove the 4 wheel lug bolts and cone spacers, 17mm socket. 8. Roll the wheel out. 9. Check the rear brake pads.
Rear Tire Change 1. Same as the front. Note: The rotor is recessed from the outside of the rim and should be OK without using the wooden frame, but be careful.
Rear Tire Balance 1. Same as the front EXCEPT: a. Pry or push out the plastic hub cap in the center of the wheel. b. The rear tire can be a real bear to get on helps to have a long 18 tire iron. c. To balance, attach the four hole axle adapter to the rear wheel using the lug bolts and spacer cones. d. Reinstall the little plastic hubcap.
BMW R1150GS Specifications
Start of Production 1999 End of Production N/A
Numbers Produced N/A Price (2003) UK US $ 7,995 14,500
Engine Motor Type Bore x Stroke Displacement Max Power Max Torque Compression Ratio Valves Per Cylinder Valve Control Four-stroke, two cylinder, horizontally opposed "Boxer" engine, air cooled 101 x 70.5 mm (3.97 x 2.77 in) 1130 cc 85 hp (62.5 KW) at 6,750 rpm 98 Nm / 72 ft lb at 5,250 rpm 10.3 : hc, using chain drive, cup tappets, push rod and rocker arm Electronic intake pipe injection/digital engine management: Bosch Motronic MA 2.4 with overrun fuel cut off, twin spark ignition (Dec 2002 on) Closed loop 3 way catalytic converter Wet sump
Mixture Control / Engine Management Emission Control Engine Lubricating System Power Transmission Clutch Gearbox Gearbox Ratios Rear Wheel Ratio Bevel / Crownwheel Drive Electrical System
Single disc dry clutch, hydraulically operated Constant mesh 6 speed gearbox (overdrive) (special equipment: short 6th gear) 2.045 / 1.600 / 1.267 / 1.038 / 0.900 / 0.679 2./ 11 Shaft Drive
Ignition System Alternator Battery Chassis Type of Frame Front wheel suspension
Electronic ignition, Bosch Motronic MA 2.4. Twin spark (Dec 2002 on) 600 W three phase alternator (special equipment: stronger power supply 700W) 12V / 14 Ah (special equipment: 12V / 19 Ah)
Rear wheel suspension
Travel Front/Rear Wheels Wheel Rims, Front Wheel Rims, Rear Tyres, Front Tyres, Rear Brakes, Front Brakes, Rear ABS Dimensions/Weights Length x Width x Height Seat Height Wheel Base Castor (in Normal Position) Steering Head Angle (in Normal Position) Fuel Tank Useable Volume Reserve Unladen Weight with Full Tank Dry Weight Max. Permissible Weight Payload (with Standard Equipment) Fuel Consumption over 100 Km @
Three section composite frame consisting of front & rear section, load bearing engine BMW Motorrad Telelever; stanchion diameter 35 mm, central strut, spring preload 5 times mechanically adjustable) Die cast aluminium single sided swinging arm with BMW Motorrad Paralever; central strut, spring pre-load and rebound damping adjustable to continuously variable levels by mean of a hydraulic handwheel 190 / 200 mm (7.48 x 7.87 in) Cross spoke wheels 2.50 x 19 4.00 x / 80-ZR 19 and 110 / 80 B / 70-ZR 17 and 150 / 70 B 17 EVO brake system with dual disc, floating brake discs, diameter 320 mm / 12.6 in ,4 piston fixed caliper Single disc brake 276 mm / 10.86 in diameter, double piston floating caliper Special equipment BMW Motorrad Integral ABS (partially integral) (disconnectable)
2189 x 980 x 1366 mm (86.18 x 38.58 in) 840 / 860 mm (33.07 / 33.85 in) 1509 mm / 59.40 in 115 mm / 4.52 in 62.9 degrees 22.1 litres / 4.86 gal / 5.83 gal US 4.0 litres / 0.87 gal / 1.05 gal US 249 Kg / 548 lb 228 Kg / 502 lb 460 Kg / 1013 lb 211 Kg / 464 lb 4.5 litres / 62 mpg / 52 mpg US
constant 90 Kph Fuel Consumption over 100 Km @ constant 120 Kph Fuel Type Top Speed
5.7 litres / 49 mpg / 41 mpg US Unleaded Premium minimum octane rating 95 (RON) Approx. 194 Kph / 120 mph
EDC46130W Jimny DX 350 Calculator Gioconda 20LS2R UX-G45 MC-8084NLC KRC-191 RY08510 FL-01CX CT-S810S Speaker HD160JJ-B Joybee 102R Monitor C2117T MIO C520 32LG70-UA LE-19R86BD NMH305 Denon S-32 CPJ-100 VPL-PX21 Medeli MC10 EX-Z12 FPS1000 Integral 3 S5PRO NW-E002 3 5 Cintiq 12WX S1000PJ HD160JJ-P Aspire 3620 SA-WM200 Dab-radio CN-DV155FD 1290F-W MPX 100 Specs Aclea DSC-W310 EW1062W Review Comfort Nx-530 Explorer-2007 Office XVD220 LVC-837 TA833V DZ-GX20A 1000C DF KH 2355 28 RF Of Ages F-F3-J LAN-9600R M90 28SR 12 V XR-MJ10 Accessories SUR-20 Ducato Digicorder 3 5 Prius 2005 SE6551B WD450 SA-WM20 RSG5furs M1033 Thermometer Printer 775I915P-sata2 AEG-electrolux Z55 Ryobi 765R SST4324A Filter II PV-DV102D VL1916-FE DGS-3024 P5GD1-FM 550 Live BX 280 DV-33 Nav III NV-VP32 998C SI 101925 MB85-P-037 Falcon UR4-EXP SMX-K45BP SD-RS50 Parts WCM 84 SB-22S Yamaha 02R 25NMO DMP-BD10 1450LMT 4040 Inox Adventure Adventure
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