Suzuki LTZ 400 and Kawasaki KFX-400 installation guidelines:
1. 2. 3. Torque specs: 6mm bolts to 6ft. lbs., 8mm bolts to 14 ft. lbs. Use Loc-tite on all nuts and bolts. Tools needed: 10 & 12mm wrenches, 5 & 6mm Allens wrenches, drill motor and an 8mm or (5/16 drill). If you plan to relocate the instrument lights and key switch instead of removing them entirely, we recommend a Dremel tool or a 1 hole saw or butterfly bit, 5/8 hole saw, a square edge file and a rat tail file. The plastic can be cut with almost anything sharp and is easy to work with. Its fairly easy if you follow our instructions and photos. Review all the photos first so you get a good idea of how this installation proceeds. KFX and LTZ are identical. Follow the instructions step by step and youll save yourself a lot of time. Remove the seat and then using a ball point pen or pointed object, push on the center of the black push tab retaining plungers that hold the cowling and shrouds on. Depress the center and then push the whole retainer out backwards from the hole. Remove the instrument light housing and key switch plastic cover via 2 bolts and then it unclips from your bars. Remove the front cowling = 4 bolts under the cowling hold this to the frame. Remove all the necessary push-tabretaining-pins around the outside and unplug the headlight. Remove the Reverse switch via 2 Phillips head screws from underneath. The front cowling then slides off toward the front. Loosen the 2 pillow block (steering column guide bushing) bolts. You are going to slide of the new frame bracket into the area between the pillow block and frame and the other of the frame bracket between the front side of the pillow block and cable guide. Review the photo so you understand how this goes in. Install the new 8x90mm Allen bolts through the cable guide first, then the frame bracket, pillow block, frame bracket again and into the frame. Thread them in just far enough so you can start the additional 8mm flange nuts provided to go on the other side of the 8x90mm Allens. We want both sets of nuts on the backside of those 8x 90s. Tighten the 8x90s to 14 ft. lbs and then seat the nuts tightly on the backside up against the stock nuts. Some IMS tanks sit closer to the front than others and the bracket may need a little grinding where the tank might bump it. Install the 6x16mm flange bolts in the frame bracket that ties the front and back portions together. If the holes do not line up, you might have to loosen the 8x90s and reposition until they line up. Remove the large plastic castle nut that holds the key switch in place. Slide the key switch out of the housing. Mark the instrument lights so you know where they belong and unplug the bulbs. Leave the white portion of the bulb assembly in the rubber boot. Now by pushing from the under side you can force the instrument lens out. Dont try to pry them out from the top, they are too tight, you push from the bottom side. Using the empty instrument shroud as your guide, mark the front cowling as to where you want the lights and key. Be sure to allow clearance underneath your selection point for the key and light housings. Drill a 1 hole for the Key switch and a square edge file to notch the plastic for the key switch anti rotation tab. Drill 5/8 holes for the instrument lights and the use a rat tail file or Dremel tool to finish the elliptical shape that matches the lens covers. Deburr the excess plastic and sand the edges. Unplug the ignition key from the wire loom under the tank. Its the green plug and lift up on the locking tab to release it. Install the key switch through the new 1 hole you made. Instrument light installation: Now is a good time to be sure the white bulb retainers are in rubber boots. Install the rubber boot housings into the cowling first, then apply a little WD-40 to the lens and slide them into the rubber. Unplug the instrument light wire loom from under the tank, you lift up on the tab to release the plug. Now install the instrument lights into their new location in the front cowling. When you reinstall the cowling, route the wire looms so they are best protected. Re-plug the key and lights in. Replace your lower handlebar mounts with the new Scotts Lower mount and secure with (4) 6x16mm bolts. Mark and drill the additional 8mm holes for these mounts using an 8mm drill or 5/16. Install (2) 8x35mm Allen bolts through the holes and use washers and Nylok nuts on the under side. This means your lower bar perches are held on with (4) 6mm bolts and (2) 8mm bolts, which is mandatory for sufficient strength. Install the new upper barclamp with the SCOTTS logo reading correctly as you sit on the quad. Install the steering stabilizer to the barclamp using the (2) 6x20 Allen bolts provided. Rotate the bars left to right to full lock and be sure the steering stops make contact. Occasionally, the link arm bottoms out before the steering stops make contact. On these rare bikes, you will need to extend the steering stops by inserting a sheet metal screw to the leading edge of the steering stop, so the head takes up any extra gap. Grease and install the floating tower pin into the tower of the frame bracket. Should you have any questions please feel free to call 818 248-6747, we are here to help you. LTZ 400 and KFX 400 instructions 08/21/07 20-127

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Finished kit should look like this
Marking where the gauges will go
Drilling 1 hole for the ignition
Notching the ignition hole with file

Finished gauge holes

Elongating the gauge hole shape
Finished gauge installation
Unplugging the ignition switch

Drilling the 8mm holes

How to remove the button attachments
Complete kit installed top view

Frame bracket installed

LTZ 400 and KFX 400 instructions 08/21/07 20-127