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THE DEFINITIVE OPEL GT GUIDE FOR YEAR, COLOR AND PARTS IDENTIFICATION
This has been a common question on the mailing list and for most Opel GT owners for years. One explanation for this trouble was the difference between the European model year and the American model year in years past. The European model year ran from January to January, while the American model year ran from September to September. The tactic of introducing your companys New model year early eventually influenced the Europeans and now everyone does it. Of course we can now see new models show up as early as Mid-April, but thats another story altogether. The other reason or excuse that has been kicked around is that Opel was trying to build the GT to sell at a fair price. To do this with all the extra labor it took to put the GT together required cost-cutting measures. So when Opel redesigned a component on the GT they would first use up all the old components before they made the change. Thats why differences in model years cross over. Or perhaps Opel or the assembly plant workers were just plain lazy. In any case, it has become somewhat difficult to distinguish between the different model years.
1968 Yes Virginia, there is a 68 GT. But it is VERY RARE, most records indicate that only approximately 121 of them were ever built and only 31 were imported into the US. These were first-run vehicles that were sent to special dealers as promotional tools. Because the GT was a custom Kaddett in many ways, at this stage they were still working out the bugs and were hand building them. This causes you to find a few very unique items on a 68, which can be dead giveaways. With that said, it should be noted that you still have to remove the dash and look at the back of the gauges to be certain of the month and year of production. Early 1969 Models (anything built after August of 68), can have a few of these clues, if not all of them, but true 68s were only built prior to 8/68, anything else is close but no cookie. Also note that all 68s were 1.9L 4speeds, if the car has a 1.1L or an Automatic it cannot be a 68.
Starting Chassis # : Unknown Production Numbers:
Records indicate that only 31 were imported into the US, 121 total were built. Some records, however, show a total production of 541. Its possible that the numbers are more like 541 produced in the year 1968 with 121 built prior to August 1968. Also conflicting is the fact that I have read old internal Opel documents which mentioned that all 68 GTs were only of the 1.9L variety. BUT, the records that indicated the higher 541 production number indicate there were 12 - 1.1L versions. All this makes the confirmation of the build date that much more important. While a finding a 68 GT would indeed be rare, confirming a 1.1L 68 would be this side of finding a Convertible AAR Plymouth Cuda. Note that even if the GT fits ALL of these criteria, what looks like a 68 could still be an early 69. I recently Un-confirmed a 68 GT that was VERY close, it had a split bumper, flat back panel, H head, No A.I.R. emissions, no W on the speedometer and in every way seemed to be a 68. BUT, the build date on the speedo and ammeter was 11/68, making it a VERY early 69. It was probably hand-built like the 68s, and to the unknowing could have been one but, alas, it wasnt.
Unique Color Combinations or Trim:
Unknown (Assume they are the same as 69) One confirmed 68 had a silver exterior and a red interior, one other was red and black.
1.9L H head (Its a 1.5L Head with 1.9L valves Results in about a 0.5:1 compression increase over any other 1.9L ) (SOME Very early 69s also had this head and did not come with the A.I.R. emissions system) Split front bumper (Front bumper is a two-piece design meeting in the middle) Tail Panel is flat (no indentation for license plate) Speedometer face WITHOUT W (897,1062) calibration number. Dash Gauges have a wider chrome ring face Air Filter lid on Solex has red paint on the part numbers. Spare tire wood shelf has an access hole for the fuel gauge sending unit. Spare tire hold-down bracket has a Square wing-nut Heater Valve is located INSIDE the car. Rear view mirror is wider than later models. Sun visors have a different shape.
THE DEFINITIVE OPEL GT GUIDE FOR YEAR, COLOR AND PARTS IDENTIFICATION CONT.
1969 The first official model year of the GT. This was also the GTs best selling year as far as orders received, although a lot of
orders were filled in the 70 model year. This is also the year (along with the 68s) which had the most parts that differed from later years.
Starting Chassis # : 94-1535504
Some Early 70 models (up to approximately Chassis #94-1925379) have some of these traits as well.
Production Numbers : (These numbers vary due to differences in overall production, US imports, and US sales numbers)
Overall production: 34,997 1.1L versions: 3,523 1.9L versions: 31,474 U.S. Sales: 11,880
British racing green with a light buckskin interior, silver with a red interior (also seen on one of the confirmed 68 GTs)
Dealer installed A.R.A. air conditioning first offered Rectangular dash indicator lights above steering wheel in dash. Dash wiring and some of the headlight wiring is totally different, if you have a 69 you NEED to use the 69 wiring diagram. The Standard 7173 wiring diagram is quite different due to this fact. Button on end of turn signal stalk (for High Beams) Window Crank is 6 from bottom of driver door (same as the passenger door) Driver window crank assembly pulley is 3-7/8 in diameter with 81.5 cable (part number 140-422) Passenger window crank assembly crank pulley is also 3-7/8 in diameter but w/ 82 cable (part number 140-423) Shoulder belt is mounted just below side quarter window A.I.R. emissions system on engine (air pump, extra hoses, etc.) (This came into existence after 1/69) Larger temperature sender on thermostat housing Single retainer bracket on underside of hood Wiper arm on drivers side without metal wing Suspension parts are narrower: inner tie rods, cross member Steering coupler uses a metal flex plate (Not rubber) Headlight mechanism has an additional microswitch Throttle rod is shorter on left side of engine Ashtray lid is hinged with a vinyl cover Cigarette lighter and dash mount is narrower Highlight lever is thinner, squared off plastic Carpet piece under E-brake handle Car Jack has a spherical ball red handle GM Logo behind rear window, 1900 or 1100 designation on rear panel, Opel GT insignia on front fender (these logos also appear on 68 and 70 Models as well)
1970 This year is a bit different; its a transition year. There was a lot of confusion with the new Federal regulations which caused
some 69 models to be held up at the factory for emission reasons, and then sold as 70s, without the A.I.R. system. So some early 70s look like and fit all the 69 parameters (right down to the wiring diagram). While the late 70 cars have a lot of drive train differences from the transmission to the rear end. Also, this was the last year for the 1.1L drive train.
Starting Chassis # : 94-1888818
Early 70 chassis end around chassis #94-1925379. These cars are more in line with the 69 than the 70 as far as components go. Also take note that the numbers are not in sequence. It seems that the GT and Kaddett shared the final 7 digits of the chassis number so the sequential numbers of the GT and Kaddett are intertwined. Thus adding 34,997 to the 1535504 number doesnt give you the starting chassis number of the 70, which is 94-1888818 or 353,314 units (if it were in series).
Production Numbers : (The numbers vary due to differences in overall production, US imports, and US sales numbers)
Overall production: 24,342 1.1L versions: 38 (though I have seen higher numbers) 1.9L versions: 24,304 U.S. Sales: 21,240 (The US Sales number seems high, and it is assumed that this probably includes a good number of late 69 models being sold as 70s)
Last year for red interior, offered in white instead of silver. Silver was discontinued due to quality problems in 69.
GM (Frigidaire) air conditioning offered, dealer installed OR factory installed. Rubber rimmed steering wheel, (Was only put in the middle 70 versions. Towards the latter part of the 1970 model year they reverted to the wood grained version) Date code and chassis number on left door latch area. Round dash indicator light lenses on dash plate (From ~Chassis #94-1925380) (This change also includes a change in the wiring to the standard 71-73 wiring diagram, although the 70 service manual shows the older wiring diagram, so be careful if you have a 70 with this change - get the 71 wiring diagram) Cigarette lighter size changes (Coincides with round indicator lights and wiring changes) Ignition lock cylinder changes to BB code (Coincides with round indicator lights and wiring changes) Light lens in dash panel above switch bank (Coincides with round indicator lights and wiring changes) Turn signal ring is hinged ( High beams are activated by pulling stalk back also coincides with indicator light and wiring changes) Window crank is 12 from bottom of driver door (From Chassis number #94-1925380 to #94-2265861) (6 higher than Passenger door) Driver window crank assembly pulley is 3-7/8 in diameter w/ 80 cable (part number 140-430) Passenger window crank assembly same as 69 for entire 70 model year (part number 140-423) Evaporative canister in belly pan next to battery (the evaporative system replaced the A.I.R. smog pump) Plastic tray underneath the E-brake. Rear axle design change (From Chassis #94-2264500) Transmission change (synchros, speedo gear location - From Chassis #94-2264500)
1971 Major changes this year, some were actually integrated (like the rear end and transmission) in the late 70 models. The engine
was a major change. For emission reasons, the engine was de-tuned and had the compression dropped from 9:1 to 7.3:1, causing a loss of over 20 HP and effectively taking a lot of the spunk out of the GT and its sales. This year also coincided with the introduction of the Datsun 240Z (now Nissan) which didnt help matters at all, especially since the Z was cheaper than the GT and had an in-line 6 cylinder engine. My personal belief is that if Opel had really been behind the GT, the GTs engine would have been increased in power and not stripped of it, the engineering to make it more powerful and emissions friendly at the same time was there. The only problem is that GM didnt want to dedicate the time and effort. Interestingly, Opel and Buick did devote a lot of money into the promotion of the car. In the memorabilia market for the GT, a lot of dealer literature and promotional items can be found for the GT dating back to this model year and this model year ONLY (Although promotional models were available for the 69 (red) and 70(green) model year). In typical GM fashion they felt promotion of an inferior product was the key to sales, instead of actually spending time on making the product better. Can we believe that a more powerful 1.9L (or possibly a 2.2L) fitted into the GT and Manta Rallye Models would have helped sales to the point of actually keeping the GT and Opel in The US?
Starting Chassis # : 77-2265862
Production Numbers :
Overall production: 14,715 U.S. Sales: 13,696 Production numbers include a European ONLY version called the GT/J. The GT/J was a stripped down version with rubber floor mats and a few other economy items to make the car cheaper in Europe where sales were down to almost nothing.
Model number changed from 94 to 77 GM logo under rear window deleted 1900 logo under gas cap deleted Opel GT logo moved from front fender to rear of car (Above license plate) Side rear quarter windows pop-out for ventilation. Cylinder Head goes from 3 bearing design to 4 bearing design Cylinder Head goes from solid lifters to hydraulic lifters Note: the 71 and early 72 head did not have the extra Allen bolt holes in the front of the head, although they were cast to be able to be drilled for them. This head is the preferred head to rebuild, since it is less prone to warping or cracking than any of the other 1.9L heads, except the rare 68 H head. Stock Rims changed to 15-hole design Instrument panel face held in with 7 screws 35 amp alternator option with rear window defroster Parking light indicator (red light) on dash face plate Intake manifold has taller carburetor mounting studs. Shoulder belt mounts on posts near door. Driver window crank changed to 3 in diameter w/ 75.5 cable (part number 140-431) Crank handle 12 from bottom of door Passenger window crank changed to 3 diameter w/755 cable (part number 140-432) Crank handle 6 from bottom of door
1972 This was by far the most stable of years. There are very few and very subtle changes from the 71. Some have said this is the
best year for the GT. Most of the bugs were worked out, workmanship was at its peak and it doesnt have some of the more undesirable changes that were introduced in the 73 model year. Also, there was a subtle change to the bushings in the control arms that made a noticeable difference in the handling.
Starting Chassis # : 77-2560567 Production Numbers :
Overall production: 17,389 U.S. Sales: 12,055 (The introduction and acceptance of the GT/J by the European community, and resurgence of the European car market helped boost sales in Europe)
Writing on interior buttons, heater and headlight lever Clock manufacturer changed to Borg Engine Dipstick goes into the block and not into a dipstick tube Starter Manufacturer changed from Bosch to Delco Stock alternator changed from 30amp to 35amp. Air filter canister top lid narrowed, grille deleted Engine oil pan changed to steel with center drain plug 3-point seat belt configuration introduced Ignition lock cylinder and key changed to CC code. Lower control arm bushing inner sleeve widened Heater side ducts connected with rubber vent hoses Door glass mounted with round plastic plugs Rear axle on early 72 Models include rear sway bar mounts on housing Rear brake shoes and cable changed to a stirrup / hook end. (late 72) Thermostat changed to a 2-bolt design (late 72) Head and timing cover changed to have two Allen bolts in the front to help keep head from warping. This redesign of the head caused it to be weaker and these (late 72) and the 73 heads leaving them prone to cracking
1973 The final year for the GT. This year included a few changes that were brought on for the sake of Opels own convenience.
Towards the end of the 72 model year Opel was running out of GT taillight lenses and the Manta was in production. So instead of spending the money to get Hella to tool up and produce a few more tail light lenses, the decision was made to use Manta taillights instead of the traditional taillight lenses. This caused a few minor differences in the wiring in the back end of the GT and the removal of the back-up lens from under the license plate. They also seemed to want to connect the sporty GT with the Manta as well, since they had rims made for the GT that matched the look of the Manta Rallye.
Starting Chassis # : OY0NC2944586 Production Numbers :
Overall production: 11,380 U.S. Sales: 11,693 (The US Sales number seems wrong, and it is assumed that this probably includes a good number of late 72 models being sold as 73s)
The return of the buckskin interior and green body color, although the color of the Buckskin is a bit lighter than the original 69 color scheme.
V.I.N. number begins with OY0 Rear lenses same as the Opel Manta (after 1/1/73) EGR valve system from exhaust to intake manifolds Solex Carburetor has an electric choke Intake manifold has a vacuum fitting on engine side Engine cross-member protecting plates near mounts Gas tank has an extra vent hose to a 3-hose fuel filter Clutch arm has a plastic plug to hold return spring. Seatbelt connects to stiff plastic buckle Door pull handle has a plastic (not metal) bezel. Rear back-up housing and lens deleted (after 1/1/73)
1974 It doesnt exist. But technically in the US it did, sort
of. What happened was that Opel built GTs up to approximately October of 1973, which technically (by US standards) made them 74 Models. Due to importation laws they were still allowed to be imported as 73 models since they were made to fill outstanding dealer orders from the 73 model year. Dealers on the other hand did at times title them as 74 Opel GTs, from all the research I have done I have confirmed about five 74 GTs that were titled that way. But seeing the difference in production numbers and US Sales numbers of the 73 model year, one can assume that there may be as many as 100-300 Opel GTs that were mis-titled as 74 Models.
It should be noted that most GTs have had parts swapped from one GT to another which can skew things a bit. Especially when it comes to trying to use these guidelines to confirm a GTs year and build. The best indicator is the V.I.N. number, working back from there to confirm what is and isnt original to the car. Also I would like to give great thanks to Dave Altenberg and the OMC for their original article on the subject in their November 1995 Newsletter, from which I was able to gather some information for this article. Other thanks go to Nathan Acree, Tom and Tobbie Thevenin (of Opel Parts and Service), Adam Opel A.G. (Production numbers), Buick Public Relations (US Sales numbers), and all the others that have helped me with information for this article. Any additional notes or corrections will be gladly accepted for future newsletters.
Modernizing Your Opel GT: Power Side Mirrors
By Wayne Torman (firstname.lastname@example.org) Personally, I hate stock Opel mirrors. And I really hate not having a passenger side mirror. And if I do have a passenger side mirror, I still hate having to go through hell to adjust it from the drivers seat. But the real reason for this project was that adding modern electric stuff to my Opels is a lot of fun!
Figure 1. Power Mirrors installed on my 1973 GT What to Get After many, many trips to the junkyard I finally settled on Mazda mirrors, from RX-7's or 626's (they are the same) in the years (around) 1980 to 1983. I'm not sure about the years immediately before or after, but I know for sure that by 1985 they had switched over to "sail" mirrors, which attach at the front of the window (almost all cars for the last 15 years have sail mirrors) and wont work on a GT. The 1978 or 1979 mirrors are similar, but seem a lot more flimsy, so go with the later ones. The reason I went with these is that they attach directly to the door by two large screws. You should probably pay only somewhere around $75 or $80 for the two mirrors and the control units (separate knobs for each mirror, unfortunately, but they are pretty easy to work with). When buying them, the #1 thing to watch out for is that the plastic on the mirror casing is not scratched or cracked. Usually there is no way to test whether they actually work at the junkyard so there is some risk there. On the other hand, I've bought 4 so far, and they've all worked fine despite Seattle's wet weather and the fact that they'd apparently been in the junkyards where I got them for quite a while already. Youll also need: (4) (Inside diameter) Well Nuts (metal preferred, but rubber is OK) (4) by 1" Stainless Steel Flat Head Screws. (I prefer Phillips Head but that's up to you) 16 gauge, 4-conductor wire, (or four separate wires to be taped together later) about 5 or 6 feet Optional: Take all the screws from the mirrors with you to the hardware store and replace them all with stainless steel ones.
Preparing the Mirrors for Mounting
Each of the mirror assemblies consists of 4 pieces: 1. The rounded mirror casing itself, with the mirror and motors attached on the inside. 2. The "stand" or vertical spar that actually supports the mirror casing. 3. The support bracket, which is screwed to the door and which the "stand" is attached to. 4. The plastic gasket that goes between the support bracket and the door.
Preparing the Mirrors for Mounting - Cont.
The angle of the sheet metal where they need to attach to the GT door is different from the Mazdas. The mirrors are level on the Mazdas but would slant upwards a lot on the GT, so the support bracket needs to be modified to get them level. In order to make this work, you must plane the bottom of the support bracket with a belt sander until the bottom edge of the base is parallel to the top edge of the base (thereby completely flattening the wedge).
Grind down to get bottom edge flat.
Figure 2. Preparing the Support Bracket As you will see, this makes the support bracket somewhat less hefty, and also reduces the depth of the countersink holes in it, but it has to be done and it still holds together quite nicely. The screws will still have enough edge left on the countersunk holes to hold it securely. Also, by planing the base like this, the plastic gasket will no longer fit correctly. They have little ridges, that were meant to fit inside the lip on the base of the support bracket, but since you've planed off the lip, they won't fit like they were supposed to. What I've done, and it works really well, is to cut out some 1/8 thick rubber mat (I used an old thin mouse pad) to the exact shape of the plastic gaskets. Install the rubber gaskets BELOW the plastic gasket (i.e. rubber against the sheet metal), and then use the plastic gaskets on the OPPOSITE doors than what they were intended for, so that you can turn them upside down. The good news is that the ridges (now pointing downward) make the new rubber gaskets stay in place quite well. One other thing. you'll need to extend the center square hole in the plastic gaskets in order to make them match the holes in the opposite sides bracket to let the wires through (you'll see what I mean when you fit them together)!
Attaching the Mirror Assemblies to the Doors
To attach the support brackets to the doors, youll use the well nuts and screws. The location of each mirror is further forward and higher than the original mirror(s), with the mirror casing's front point just about right at the front point on the window.
Figure 3. Locations for Mounting Holes
Attaching the Mirror Assemblies to the Doors - Cont.
It requires three holes in the door, all 2 1/16" inch below the edge of the sheet metal at the top of the main body of the door. In other words, measure down from the 90 degree bend in the sheet metal below the aluminum trim at the bottom of the window frame. Do not measure from the aluminum! The first hole is directly below the point at the front of the window opening (again, pay attention only to the door's sheet metal rather than the aluminum!). The second hole is about 1 3/16" back from the first hole and the third hole is 1 3/16" back from the second. (Actually 3 CM is closer to the correct measurement than 1 3/16", but they are damned close to the same distance anyway.) Don't worry too much about being *exactly* 3 CM (or whichever measurement you choose), since there will be some play in it, but you do want to be pretty close. Remember to keep all three holes at 2 1/16" from that lip so that they are parallel with the window opening! Also, if you are unsure of where "exactly below the front point of the window opening" is (for the first hole) since you'll pretty much just be "eyeballing" it, err towards the front of the car, NOT the back. Unfortunately, there is a piece of sheet metal inside the door near where the mirror gets installed. if you go too far back you will have a hard time getting the wiring up into the mirror. The measurements I've given you should give you plenty of clearance away from that sheet metal. The first pair of mirrors that I installed are actually about 3/8" further back than I've described, and it was a pain in the ass getting the wires through! Once you've drilled small pilot holes (1/16" inch) and then widened them a little (to 1/8" or 1/4"), you'll want the final hole sizes to be 1/2" for each of the two outside holes and 5/8" for the center hole. You might want to put a little nail polish or clear paint around each of the holes to avoid rust. Use a rubber grommet on the center hole (after you've snaked the wire through from inside the door, put the grommet over the plug and onto the wire, slide it down and work it into the hole). Insert the well nuts into each of the two outside holes.
Preparing for the Wiring
The holes for the wires are relatively straightforward: one in the front of the door and a corresponding one in the door jam. Unfortunately, there isn't a "great" place to put the holes, but I found it works best if you put the door hole right about the height of the little nubby projection at the front (which presses on the light switch). The hole in the door jam should be about 1.5 inches from the outside edge and about an inch or so higher than the door hole. I made 3/4" holes, and used plastic trim rings (easier to snap in a plastic ring than wrestle with a grommet that could potentially fall into the door or door jam with regular use). Of course, you'll also have to drill holes inside the car, which means removing the stainless steel kick panel trim plate (bottom of the door opening) and the weatherstripping (below dashboard level) on the door jam. This is necessary to allow you to remove the snapped-in vinyl-covered trim panel on the outboard wall of each footwell. It's really tough to find a good place for the hole on the passenger side, but I finally put it about an inch below the top of that trim panel and just in front of the forward wall inside the compartment for the door hinges, and it worked out ok. Be careful you don't make the hole so far forward that you are in the next compartment (where the circular air vent cover is). Once you examine the area, you'll see what I mean. One final note on these holes. make them low enough so the door hinges wont crush the wires inside the door hinge compartment.
The two control units each have their own wires, but join together and run to a large male/female connector, and then the wires need to be separated to go to the respective mirrors, ground and power source. The wire colors from the control units match going to the passenger side (green, black, green/red, and green/black) but they don't match going to the driver's side. Black still goes to black, but the other three are brown (goes to green), brown/white (goes to green/red), and brown/yellow (goes to green/black). Finally (about the wiring, that is.) all the blacks (1 from each mirror and one from the combined control units) go to ground. I powered my mirrors from the leftmost (black) wire at the back of the fusebox (closest to the driver and closest to the trim pad on the outboard wall of the footwell). This appears to be the main (*unfused*) source of current for all of the devices that depend on the key being "on". I used one of those clip-on splicer thingies (the plastic thing with a metal part in the middle that you squeeze onto two wires in order to splice them and then snap the plastic cover closed) to connect it. I ran power from there through an inline 4-amp fuse to the control units. To mount the control units, I recommend that you put a piece of at least about 1/4" or 3/8" plywood or stryofoam between them and then tape this sandwich together. The knob on the front of each control unit simply pulls off (with enough pressure), or you can use a tiny flat blade screwdriver to help you pry them off if you are nervous about pulling! Then you can easily unscrew the trim rings below the front knobs. Once you've done that, measure the exact distance between the tips of the two metal rods that the knobs mount onto. those will be the center points of the mounting holes for the control units.
Figure 4. The Control Mounting Bracket (Side View) To install the control units, I went to a model railroad store, bought a sheet of hobbyists aluminum, and bent it to a squared-off "C" shape (like three sides of a square). To get nice, crisp bends, I drew the lines on the metal, then clamped it between two sheets of plywood hanging off the edge of my workbench, with the line on the metal at the end of the two sheets of plywood. I bent it down by hand, and then used a hammer and another piece of wood to flatten out the metal at the corner. I turned up the back edge (about 1/8") of the top side, and mounted it below the dash to the left of the steering wheel (there's actually more room for your legs there than you need). To mount it, I used a large (about 1") "Binder Clip" (available at any office supply store) and simply clipped it to the dash. that way I won't get castrated if I get into a car accident -- it will simply break away from the dash. If you prefer, you could also drill a couple of holes in the top side of the mounting bracket and screw (or better yet, nut and bolt) it to that lower lip of the dash. I do find that with the clip-on version, I need to remember to hold the bottom of the bracket if I want to adjust the mirrors downward. Once you've prepared the mounting bracket (or any other location of your choosing - *if* you can find one!) and marked off the center points for the two control units, drill holes of 3/4" for each unit. Slip them in, screw on the trim rings, press on the knobs and away you go! And as always, please let me know if you have any additional questions, corrections or suggestions. and also PLEASE let me know if you decide to do this. I've written a lot of tech tips, but never hear whether people actually DO any of them! :-) You can contact me via e-mail at or by snail mail through the club. Special thanks to Don Trelstad for helping me get this down in writing (a few months ago!). Good Luck! Wayne (Many thanks once again Wayne - Ed.)
Tech Tip No.2 - Headlight Cable Lubrication - Ken Goff ( thanks of the Opel mailing list )
Someone suggested lubricating the cable that actuates the headlamp mechanism. It was mentioned that it would take at least a couple of hours to drip oil into a small hole near the top of the cable housing. I'm not that patient and did not want to take that much time from the numerous other things I needed to do. However, lubricating the cable might alleviate some of the problem of excessive force on the cable in order to rotate the lights. I lubricated my headlamp cable in 20 minutes. This time included installing a small amount of hardware (about 5 bucks). First, go to a good hardware store and purchase a saddle valve for a 1/2 inch water line. You will also need a simple common grease fitting of the standard size. These are commonly used for ice machines and other small appliance add-ons which need to connect to a water line. Gently, use a knife to remove a small part of the plastic coating on the cable sheath located under the hood on the left side, exposing the metal spiral inside. Now, with a hand drill or a slow electric screwdriver, slowly and gently drill a small hole (1/16" is plenty) through the spiral housing; between two portions of the spiral. Do not drill into the cable itself located inside. Set the rubber gasket and the upper portion of the saddle directly over the hole(remove the valve, you won't need it). Align the bottom portion of the saddle below and insert the screws and hand tighten(you might need to use shorter screws than the ones that come with the valve. Tighten the screws securely without overtightening. You want only to flatten the rubber down securely to seal around the hole you made in the sheath. Insert the grease fitting into the saddle, tighten it a bit and pump the cable full of grease with a grease gun. I leave mine in place so I could lube it again, but it could easily be removed and the hole taped over.
Ken Goff ( Thanks for the tip it is a good one - Ed.)
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