Instructions for consumer products as easy as 1-2-3?
Plain Language Association InterNational conference Sydney, Australia, October 2009 Martin Cutts, research director, Plain Language Commission, UK
Fig 1: Advert for Stihl chainsaw, The Times, September 2009. Note the close-up photography showing the correct grip. Most instructions for chainsaws lack this kind of clarity. Why dont companies regard instructions as part of their marketing?
From the perspective of first-time users and hobbyists, this paper examines the language, layout and graphics of the instructions for several makes of chainsaw. It finds them generally poor. The paper suggests ways of improving them and considers how chainsaw manufacturers could use better instructions as a low-cost marketing aid. Theres more on writing instructions well in The Oxford Guide to Plain English (2009) Cutts M, Oxford; Instructions for Consumer Products (1988) Cooper S and Page M E Consumer Safety Unit, DTI, UK; and Warnings and instructions to minimise risks in consumer products (2000) Page M E, Hawskmere seminar on European product liabilities.

Contents

9 Why instructions need to be good Why instructions are often bad Good features of 4 chainsaw manuals Failings of the manuals Poor explanations of the chain brake Is readability testing the answer? Er, not really Legal points Writing instructions better Accidents with chainsaws: some notes 12
This paper is available from Plain Language Commissions website, http://www.clearest.co.uk. Visit the site for articles, guides on plain English, free books and newsletters for download, and details of our services.
1| Why instructions need to be good
Step one you find a girl to love Step two she falls in love with you Step three you kiss and hold her tightly Yeah! that sure seems like heaven to me
Instructions for some consumer products may never be as easy to understand as the three steps to heaven suggested by Eddie Cochran in his 1960 hit single. But when products can cause injury and death if not properly used, assembled and maintained, the instructions need to be so well written and well designed that they give the users the best possible chance of understanding them. The need for good instructions is not an academic matter: numerous deaths have occurred in the US because parents fail to fit child seats properly in cars, according to the US Department of Transportation (www.cdc.gov/ncipc/duip/spotlite/chldseat.htm). Once the preserve of professional users, chainsaws are now often bought by hobbyists to do their own logging and treework. Chainsaws are fearsome. Users need special equipment to protect their face, hands, feet and legs, and they should follow correct felling and logging practices.
2| Why instructions are often bad
Why do so many companies have difficulty writing easy-to-follow instructions for consumer products? One answer is that they dont do the basics well. The basics include legible type; clear language; clear well-captioned illustrations or photos; a clear hierarchy of headings; a contents list; a whats in the box list; well-placed and relevant warnings; and, for products used outside the home, paper thats waterproof. Many excuses for failure are given, including its a bad translation and the regulations and the fear of being sued militate against clarity. Both excuses are weak. Instructions are so poor, I believe, because companies continue to see them as a boxticking exercise to satisfy the regulations on product safety, they want to spend as little money on them as possible, and they dont regard them as part of their marketing effort for the product. Only rarely have I seen a product box claiming that the instructions within have been clarity-checked. Too often theres a mismatch between the purpose of the instruction booklet to the manufacturer, and the purpose to the user. While manufacturers are mainly concerned with regulatory compliance, the user reads instructions to release the value in the purchase and to avoid mutilation and death. In my experience, retailers and so-called helplines tend to be condescending to consumers who complain that they dont understand the instruction manual. On calling one shop recently about why a chainsaw wouldnt start even though I was following the manual to the letter I was told: Look, just ignore the manual. Ive never even looked at that manual myself. Just use your common sense! Common sense is, of course, fairly uncommon. And common sense and chainsaws dont necessarily sleep well in the same bed. I first began writing about bad instructions in 1980 (Writing Plain English by Cutts M and Maher C, Plain English Campaign, Stockport 1980). Things havent got much better since then even though in law (at least in Europe) instructions are regarded as part of the product and, in theory, consumers can go to court if they suffer physical injury through bad instructions. The injuries they usually suffer, though, are wasted time and mental anguish, neither of which is worth suing for. And, of course, when instructions are bad, users tend to blame themselves.

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3| Good features of 4 chainsaw manuals
If you own a bit of land with some trees, you can be fairly self-sufficient in wood for your winter fires or cooking stove if youre handy with a chainsaw. Its cheaper than buying lorry-loads of logs and it gets you out in the fresh air on a cold winters day. Ive owned 4 chainsaws since 2002. The first 3 were electric and fairly cheap at GBP5070. My present machine has a petrol engine and cost GBP250. In all cases, the instructions have been confusing on several important points. Yet they have also had a few good features, which Id like to mention first for the sake of balance. The Ikra PP350C booklet has a global diagram of the chainsaw, which labels nearly all the parts on the same page (Fig 2). Not all manuals do this. The B&Q PPT PWR 1800CSD booklet has fold-out flaps showing photos of all the parts and legible diagrams of tasks (eg, Fig 3). It also has a convincing hierarchy of headings, and a clear matrix about troubleshooting. Large sections of the manual seem to have been written by someone familiar with English, with good explanations like Felling is a term for cutting down a tree and Bucking is cutting a fallen log into lengths. The Black & Decker GK1630 series booklet has excellent illustrations. However, because these dont name the parts, readers have to refer to text several pages away to make sense of them. The Echo CS-351 WES is in many ways the best of the manuals (and the machine is by far the best of the chainsaws). The manual has A4 pages, which enables illustrations to be placed adjacent to the relevant text. It also has a contents page.
Fig 2: Global diagram of Ikra chainsaw parts. This is helpful though the print is very faded. (70% size)
Fig 3: Clear diagrams support the text in B&Qs manual. (80% size)
4| Failings of the manuals
Ill limit myself to the most obvious failings of each.
Fig 4: Pointless pictograms (Ikra manual) only
one of them is used again after this key. (55% size) 1 The drawings are mainly faded and barely legible copies, probably photocopies (eg, Fig 2). 2 Although there are 7 well-captioned pictograms (Fig 4), only one of them is used in the rest of the booklet. So, in other words, 6 of them are pointless. Pictogram 6, on kickback, would have been relevant in several places but doesnt appear. 3 In one diagram, items A and B are illegible (Fig 5). In the same diagram, item C is so small that the novice may not realize what its trying to show. 4 The key to parts is on a different page from its diagram. Fig 5: Illegible diagrams in the Ikra manual make them almost impossible to use. (60% size)

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5 One diagram is meaningless (Fig 6). Its meant to show the correct chain tension you should be able to lift the chain 3mm off the guide bar. Compare this with the clearer Black & Decker drawing of the same point in Fig 7. Fig 6, above: chain tension, Ikra. 6 Some of the text is irrelevant: one page speaks of installing a (100% size) cutting grip and a strain relief device but neither of these was Fig 7, below: chain tension, Black & available with my chainsaw. The heading Cutting a felling tree Decker. (100% size) is nonsense. 7 Instructions 1645 (ie, 30 instructions) should have been grouped under subheads otherwise readers cant easily find a particular point when re-reading (see Fig 8). Theres no clear hierarchy of headings and the type is too small for ease of reading, yet 3 pages of the manual are left blank.
Fig 8: Lack of coherent structure in the Ikra manual. (Actual size)
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B&Q

1 Some of the typography is disgusting small black type on a dark red background why? 2 The first sentence is badly punctuated: Read all instructions failure to follow all instructions listed below may result in electric shock, fire and/or serious injury. Of course, omitting a full stop is not a hanging offence but it immediately signals that the manual is a bit slipshod and that the instructions will be a puzzle. 3 Quaint English: Persons unfamiliar with the power tool. All persons who use and service the machine have to be acquainted with this Manual. Kickback is a phenomenon whereby the tip of the saw flies quickly and uncontrollably upwards towards the operator. Why use the word phenomenon here? Is it translated from the Greek? Prefer Kickback is when. Note: Direct of fall is controlled by the notching cut. Before any cuts are made, consider the location of larger branches and natural lean of the tree to determine direction of the tree that will fall. 4 Missing words: Do not operate tool and This will prevent the guide bar from binding in felling cut if you have misjudged the falling direction. Why do writers imagine they are sending a telegram or text message? Do they think missing out words like the and a enables people to read smoothly? The opposite is true. 5 Unusual construction: Carrying power tools with your finger on the switch or plugging in power tools that have the switch on invites accidents. 6 Strange bits of jargon: residual risk factors. 7 Impersonal passives instead of imperatives: The operation of the chain brake must be checked prior to each use.

Black & Decker

1 The diagrams do not include labelled parts, which are instead named throughout the booklet. Theres no complete diagram with the parts named and shown. The diagrams themselves are, however, very well drawn. (Figs 9 and 10) 2 The language is quaint: Double insulation means greater electrical safety and obviates the necessity of having the machine earthed. Check for.mounting and any other conditions that may affect its operation. What is mounting in this context? It can hardly be what a chainsaw does on meeting a particularly nubile piece of softwood. Then theres.familiarise yourself with your chainsaw, in particular with regard to the sawing of round wood. But round wood isnt mentioned again in the booklet, and there arent any particular problems with the sawing of round wood as far as I know. One heading says: Filling oil into the reservoir, which is poor English. 3 The manual tells people to keep the saw chain sharp but does not say how. The Echo manual is the only one of the 4 manuals to explain how to do this.
Figs 9 & 10: Clear illustrations from Black & Decker. (About 75% size)
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1 Some of the illustrations are lamentably small (eg, Fig 11, at actual size). 2 There is random use of impersonal passives: After choke control knob is pulled and then knob is returned to original position, throttle remains a little open (latch condition). Yet users will want to know whether the throttle remains a little open automatically or whether they can control it. The text continues: If engine is started in this latch condition, chain starts to turn. But is this a good thing or a bad thing? Is there any alternative? The text goes on: Do not start engine before chain brake is activated. Well, were not likely to start the engine because we havent yet been told how, and as yet weve no idea how to activate the chain brake, whatever that is. (In fact, the retailer told me to ignore the manual on this point and start the engine with the brake released.) At various times we read about releasing, engaging and activating the chain brake without getting any clear explanation of these 3 actions. When the chain brake is engaged, is this the same as Fig 11: Echo diagrams far activated? Probably, but its a guess. The 2 terms seem to be used too small. (100% size) interchangeably, which is confusing to a novice.

3 Important sections are puzzling. For example, points A15 (Fig 12) look like steps in a process whereas they summarize (badly) what you do next and also try to explain the illustrations near by. The text is a muddle, though, because it explains first how to fill the machine with fuel and oil, which you should do beforehand and which is nothing to do with the headline on this page, which is Starting the cold engine. And what does Starter handle ESSTART mean? The answer is 11 pages distant. 4 Though the manual often uses imperatives, which is good practice, the booklet
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Fig 12: Part of the Echo manual. Items 15 look like a sequence the user should follow. But theyre not. (92% size)
shies away from using you when addressing the user directly. For example, Pull start handle several times until first firing sound is heard. Why not until you hear the first firing sound? The authors also omit context words: If engine does not stop, pull choke control knob all the way out to stop engine. Yet soon afterwards they put them all in again If the tip of the bar touches wood or the like, the guide bar kicks back in an instant.? This inconsistency trips up the reader. 5 Some of the language is odd, eg To avoid housing deterioration carefully remove all packed saw dust around clutch and guide bar area and wash with water. Presumably housing deterioration is nothing to do with houses. It may mean deterioration during storage or possibly deterioration of the casing. One heading says, in the kind of English a particularly dim lumberjack might use, Fell big tree. And there are borrowings from officialese: A damaged hand guard and lever may render the brake inoperative. In plain English,.may stop the brake working. The booklet has more than its fair share of typos, too: hige, anytihing, srarting.
5| Poor explanations of the chain brake
Three of the 4 manuals have poor explanations of how the main safety feature, the chain brake, works.
The heading Safety devices on your chain brake is weak because the chain brake is the safety device. The text says that if the tip of the saw blade comes into contact with solid objects, the drive of the chain is immediately stopped by activation of the hand guard (4). The manuals diagram 4 does not actually show this happening, as you may have hoped. In fact, 4 refers to item 4 on the parts diagram 3 pages earlier, called front hand protection, while the manuals figure 7 tries, badly and in faded ink, to show what happens (Fig 13). But what does immediately activated mean to novice users? That they have to activate the hand guard or that it happens automatically? The section continues: This brake function is initiated by the back of your hand pushing on the front handle (2). Yet this doesnt make clear whether the user has to do something or whether it happens automatically. Nor does it make any sense because the front handle is a fixed thing and the back of your hand never pushes on it because your hand is actually grasping it. No amount of pushing on the front handle achieves anything at all. What seems to happen is that the back of your hand will automatically contact the front hand guard, pushing it forward, bringing the chain brake into action and stopping the chain. The booklet, as far as I can tell, uses activated to mean 2 things: first being in the correct position for the saw to work safely, and second its polar opposite, being applied to stop the chain. This hideous muddle seems to be most evident in the CAUTION note, which reads: No buttons should be depressed when the chain brake is activated (hand protection pulled back in the direction of the handle and locked). This, of course, is the safe operating state of the chainsaw and actually the chain brake is NOT activated in this state. Its only in this state that you SHOULD press the buttons. This is confirmed by the following sentence: Always ensure before starting the chainsaw that the hand protection (4) is locked in the operating position. To do this pull back the hand protection in the direction of the handle. What the instructions should have done is to clearly describe 2 opposite states: first the brake being set or ready, and second the brake being activated or engaged. Then, having chosen one of these words in each case, the instructions should use the chosen word consistently.

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Fig 13: Feeble attempt to show how the Ikra chain brake works. (100% size)
Fig 14: The chain brake section in the B&Q manual is strangely split by the main heading Operation. Note the small type size. Its even smaller on 2 other pages, where the readers eye is also assaulted by a strong red background. The grey bars shown here are pink in the manual. (100% size)
This manual has a reasonably clear explanation of how the chain brake works. The section is supported by 2 good illustrations but oddly has the major heading Operation between its 2 paragraphs of text (see Fig 14). This Operation heading actually covers all the main cutting and felling instructions, not just how the chain brake works. The manual proclaims: The operation of the chain brake must be checked prior to each use [why do authors love prior to so much?] but doesnt say how the user should do this. The manual also says that if kickback occurs, the left hand will come into contact with the chain brake. This isnt true because if it did, it would shred your fingers. In fact, it will come into contact with what is called elsewhere in the booklet the safety chain brake lever. Yet this component is called by this name only in the list of parts, as far as I can see. So in the section on how the chain brake works, the main component is not given its proper name. This seems bizarre.
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The text explanation of the chain brakes function is almost unbelievably bad. It is at least supported by well-drawn illustrations (Fig 15) but these are 6 pages away and you cant see them while youre reading the text.
Fig 15: Good illustrations from Black & Decker, though the text is dire. (100% size)
The manual speaks of 4 different kinds of chain brake: chainbrake, auto-stop chainbrake, anti-kickback chainbrake and inertia activated chainbrake. Novice users might assume these were 4 different parts. In fact, there seems to be only one chain brake that springs into action in 4 different ways hence, perhaps, the 4 different names. But the novice user doesnt know this. The text under auto-stop chainbrake says This brake should be tested before every use but doesnt tell you how to do this. Later theres an explanation of how to test the anti-kickback chainbrake, which gives the reader the impression this is another component which it isnt. Muddle. Even in that section about testing, were told (Fig 16) that the back of your hand comes in contact with the front guard and pushes it backwards. This is totally wrong. It means pushes it forwards as the illustration shows. The text under How the inertia activated chainbrake works is written mainly in the impersonal passive so its not clear whether the user has to do anything or whether actions take place automatically. It says, The chainbrake is activated when the front hand guard is pushed forward, either manually, by the back of the users [sic] hand or by its own weight. But what does its mean? Grammatically, it could mean the chain brakes own weight or the front hand guards own weight, but either meaning would be nonsense. The manuals whole explanation of the chain brake is a dreadful failure.

Fig 16: Part of Black & Deckers failure to explain the chain brake well. (120% size)
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The Echo manual devotes 2 A4 pages to Correct use of the chain brake. The first page gives mainly warnings and context. The second page (Fig 17) is abysmal in language, logic and layout. For example, why is the heading Release the chain brake in the same font as Checking the brake function of the brake when it seems to be merely a part of that section? And if its not part of that section, why doesnt the heading say How to release the chain brake? And instead of writing Checking the brake function of the brake, why not put it in normal English, eg How to check whether the brake works properly? What does item 2 mean by saying Hold the handle with both hands. There are 2 handles, one at the front and one at the back. Which one should the user hold with both hands? The text is just nonsense: the user must grip the front handle with the left hand and the rear handle with the right as the diagram tries to show. Why are key points written in the impersonal passive: When front hand guard is fully pulled towards the operator, chain brake is released.? Is it telling us to do these things, ie: Pull the front hand guard towards you so it locks into place. This releases the chain brake.? It might just mean this. But readers have to figure it out for themselves. The next line of type is utterly baffling: If the chain does not stop immediately,
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Fig 17: The Echo manuals attempt to explain the chain brake. (100% size)
take the saw to your ECHO dealer to repair. As John McEnroe once said: You can NOT be serious. This line of text should follow the item in the list in the previous section. Its nothing to do with releasing the chain brake. The heading Release the chain brake would then be in normal-size type as the final item in the list. This is what the list should say: 1 Place the chainsaw on the ground. 2 Hold the handles as shown in the diagram and accelerate the engine to high speed using the throttle trigger. 3 Operate the chain brake by pushing your left wrist against the front hand guard while gripping the front handle. 4 The chain should stop immediately. If it does not, there is a serious fault so take the chainsaw to your Echo dealer for repair. 5 Release the throttle trigger. 6 Release the chain brake by pulling the front handle towards you. The manual then goes on to introduce a part called, apparently, a non-manual chain brake. You can see it has a large heading saying this. Well, its not a part at all. Its just the way the chain brake works automatically if theres a kickback. The final line of this section refers to the impact being transferred to the brake lever which actuates the chain brake. Yet no such part called brake lever is shown on the parts diagram or referred to again in the booklet, as far as I can tell. The word actuates is a rarity, but anyone whos read this far in the booklet and not torn it into little pieces will probably get the general idea. The same section tells us to Operate the front and rear handles with hands (grip them lightly). But this is weird English because no operating of the handles occurs, and its hard to grip lightly a tool weighing 4kg. It just means Grip the front handle with your left hand and the rear handle with your right.

6| Is readability testing the answer? Er, not really
People may imagine that the oversold panacea of doing a readability test on manuals like these will indicate how easy they are for the target audience to understand. The 4 manuals under discussion are written in short sentences and the vocabulary is not particularly specialized, so theyd probably score quite well on the tests. Yet the manuals make little sense in key sections, and readability tests neither examine sense nor usability. They might give the impression that the target audience would easily be able to understand and use the manuals, which is, I believe, false. Doing readability tests on these manuals would be very low in the priority list of things to do before or after rewriting them.

7| Legal points

According to Consumer Direct, the UK Governments consumer advice service, the main rule on instructions for products bought in the UK is that they have to be written in English. No particular kind of English is specified. So nonsensical illogical English may be lawful, and certainly there are plenty of examples of such writing. Instructions are regarded as part of a product, though, in the Sale of Goods Act 1979 (as amended), and if instructions are poor then consumers may be entitled to regard the goods as not being of satisfactory quality or fit for purpose and get redress from the retailer. This requires the consumer to return to the shop (or write) and try to explain how an instruction manual is unclear and how this has caused him or her wasted time, mental anguish and (maybe) physical injury. It would also be possible to try to sue a
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retailer if injury occurred through bad instructions. This kind of legal case seems to be rare. Many parents fail to fit child seats properly in their cars and this can lead to injury or death. A US survey of 3,500 child restraint systems in 2006 found that 73% were badly fitted. Car crashes are the leading cause of child deaths in the US (see website reference on page 2). What about more regulation? Should there be a regulation saying that all instructions for consumer goods above a certain price should have a clarity certificate from a usability or plain-language company (or have passed a user-group test) before the goods can be sold? A similar regulation operates for bank current-account information in Northern Ireland and thus, virtually automatically, in the rest of the UK.

8| Writing instructions better
There ought to be a British Standard or International Standard (or both) on writing instructions for consumer products. I understand that a British Standard may be in the offing as a consultation paper is being circulated at present. In the meantime, the notes in the Oxford Guide to Plain English and Instructions for Consumer Products (both cited on page 1) offer sensible guidance. The Oxford Guide suggests, for example, that companies hire a usability firm to test their instructions with real people.David A McMurrey also gives good advice at http://www.io.com/~hcexres/textbook/instrux.html. Here are some of the principles in the Oxford Guide: 1 Remember the readers. Usually readers havent used the product before; thats why theyre reading the instructions. Say a little at a time. 2 Favour a basic style of language. This often means using the command form of the verb, the imperative, which helps you state the action early and keep the message simple. 3 Split the information into chunks and use separate headed sections. A common sequence of sections is: introductory explanation, overview or summary tools or materials needed definitions warnings main text, split into headed sections. 4 Use clear illustrations of adequate size with good labels and captions. Relevant illustrations should be visible while the user is reading the text. 5 Test with typical users. Above all, though, pick a capable writer who is fairly ignorant about the product but has it in front of him or her and has an expert on call for guidance. The writer should be fluent in the language of the manual. If the writer is, say, preparing a base version of the manual in English for translation into other languages, his or her version must be tested to destruction before the translations are made. This is because errors and idiocies in the base text tend to be magnified by translators, who may not have the product in front of them.
9| Accidents with chainsaws: some notes
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (US website, 2009) Each year, approximately 36,000 people are treated in hospital emergency departments for injuries from using chain saws. The potential risk of injury increases
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after hurricanes and other natural disasters, when chain saws are widely used to remove fallen or partially fallen trees and tree branches. National AG Safety Database (US website, 2009) Do you know approximately what percentage of all woods accidents in a year are typically the result of a chain saw cut? 30 percent. Chainsaw accidents (UK) House of Commons Debates 7 May 1991 vol 190 cc423-4W 424W Mr Gareth Wardell: To ask the Secretary of State for Health what information his Department holds on the number and nature of non-work accidents through the use of chainsaws over each of the past 10 years. Mr Dorrell: This information is not collected centrally. BBC News, 30 September 2008 [from the Web] A man who cut his arm off with a chainsaw is recovering in hospital after having the severed limb reconnected in 14 hours of surgery. John Stirling was gardening at his house in Telscombe Cliffs, East Sussex when the accident happened on Monday. He kicked on the door of neighbour Steve Francis who dialled 999 and kept the limb in a bag of frozen pastry. Mr Francis said: My first impression was it was a joke. Then I looked down at his arm and saw there was no arm. After that, it was just like 999 and call the ambulance. I talked to them, put a belt around his arm, and they just talked me through it. When the ambulance crews arrived, they realised the arm was still in Mr Stirling's back garden where he had been cutting down trees, he added. Mr Francis said: The ambulance men were working on him. So someone had to go and get the arm. I just went up the road and got the arm, put it in a bag and put it in with some pastry. He added: It just happened. Anyone would do exactly the same. Safety first an anecdote John runs a small carpet-cleaning and gardening business. He's savvy but not very literate. He'd bought a chainsaw to use at work but found the instructions so daunting that he'd not used it for the first 12 months. By the time he did fathom it out, the saw was out of guarantee. Not that anything went wrong with it then, but he could have lost money if it had been faulty. Chainsaw accident kills Glenn Dobrusky Published: April 2, 2009 [from the Web] Glenn Dobrusky, a local Gold Beach wood sculptor and surfer, was found dead at his Hunter Creek Heights home last Tuesday afternoon, March 24, 2009, after apparently accidentally slicing his throat with a chainsaw he was using to create his artwork. A Curry County Sheriff's deputy found 58-year-old Dobrusky at 1:18 p.m. last Tuesday when he went to serve legal papers at Dobrusky's home located at 28390 Hunter Creek Heights. Next-of-kin was located and notified, and an autopsy was performed on March 26. The results of the autopsy were consistent with the investigative finding that Dobrusky's death was accidental. Analysis of the scene indicated that Dobrusky was working in his shop, using a chainsaw on a wooden sculpture when the chainsaw blade somehow made contact with the throat area of his neck, causing a fatal wound. It appears that the accident occurred sometime early in the morning on March 24.

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www.blackanddecker.com

Copyright Black & Decker

ENGLISH

CHAINSAW
Know your chainsaw Warning! When using electric tools, basic safety precautions should always be taken to reduce the risk of fire, electric shock and personal injury. Read this user manual carefully, observing all of the recommended safety instructions before, during and after use of your chainsaw. Maintain your chainsaw in good working order. Familiarise yourself with the controls on your chainsaw before attempting to operate it, but above all, be sure you know how to stop the tool in an emergency. Retain this user manual and all other literature supplied for future reference. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Know your chainsaw. Please read this user manual carefully and familiarise yourself with your chainsaw, in particular with regard to the sawing of round wood. We strongly recommend that first time users practice sawing logs on a saw horse or cradle. Avoid dangerous environments. Keep your work area clean and remove clutter. Keep the work area well lit. We strongly recommend the use of a sawhorse or cradle whenever possible. Do not saw wet wood or use your chainsaw when it is raining. Keep people away while your chainsaw is in use. Do not allow children, other people or animals near your chainsaw while you are using it. Maintain your chainsaw when not in use. Do not store your chainsaw for any length of time without first removing the saw chain and guide bar which should be kept immersed in oil. Store all parts of your chainsaw in a dry, secure place out of reach of children. We recommend you drain the oil reservoir prior to storage.
Do not force your chainsaw. It will do the job better and more safely at the rate for which it was intended. Protective clothing. Wear close fitting and protective clothing including a safety helmet with visor/goggles, ear protectors, safety shoes, protective bib trousers and strong leather gloves. Do not abuse the cable. Never carry a chainsaw by the cable or jerk it to disconnect the plug from the socket. Keep the cable away from heat, oil or sharp edges. Check the cable frequently for damage. Secure your work using clamps or chocks. Be sure that you use both hands when operating your chainsaw. Remove the plug from the mains before changing the work location, adjusting, sharpening or cleaning, changing any accessory such as the chain, or if the cord becomes entangled or damaged. Adjusting wrenches. Form a habit of checking to see that adjusting wrenches are removed from your chainsaw before starting. Only use extension cable type HO7RN-F 2 x 1mm2, as a minimum only. Stay alert. Never operate your chainsaw when you are tired. Check damaged parts. Before further use of your chainsaw, a guard or other part that is damaged should be carefully checked to determine whether it will operate properly and perform its intended function. Check for alignment of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting and any other conditions that may affect its operation. A guard or other part that is damaged should be properly repaired or replaced by an authorised service agent. Do not use your chainsaw if the switch does not turn it on and off.
Warning! The use of an accessory or attachment other than those recommended in this user manual may present a risk of personal injury. For all types of cutting, always hold the saw firmly with both hands, with thumbs and fingers encircling the saw handles. Do not release your grip until your chainsaw has stopped moving. Be sure of your footing and pre-plan a safe exit from a falling tree or branches. Use wedges to help control felling and prevent binding the guide bar and saw chain in the cut. Keep all parts of your body and clothing away from the saw chain when running your chainsaw. Before you switch on make sure your chainsaw is not contacting anything. Do not touch or try to stop a moving saw chain with your hand. Carry your chainsaw carefully with the mains supply disconnected and with the guide bar and saw chain to the rear and the blade sheath fitted. Keep your chainsaw clean. Do not allow dirt, oil or sawdust to build up on your chainsaw. Pay particular attention to the air inlet and outlet slots; these must not become clogged. Clean your chainsaw with a dry cloth but do not use any solvents or cleaning fluids. Saw chain care. Keep the saw chain sharp and snug on the guide bar. Ensure the saw chain and guide bar are clean and well oiled.

Lack of attention when holding or guiding the saw while cutting. Over-reaching. Keep proper footing and balance at all times and do not overreach. Do not try to insert into a previous cut, as this could cause kickback. Make a fresh cut every time. We strongly recommend you do not attempt to operate your chainsaw while in a tree, on a ladder or on any other unstable surface. If you decide to do so, be advised that these positions are extremely dangerous. When cutting a branch that is under tension, be alert for spring back so that you will not be struck when the tension is released. Avoid cutting: x Prepared timber. x Into the ground. x Into wire fences, nails, etc. x Into small sized brush and saplings because slender material may catch the saw chain and be whipped towards you, or pull you off balance. Do not use your chainsaw above shoulder height. Ensure someone is nearby (but at a safe distance) in case of an accident. If for any reason you have to touch the chain, make sure your chainsaw is disconnected from the mains. The noise from this product can exceed 85 dB(A). We therefore recommend you take appropriate measures for the protection of hearing.
Beware of kickback. Kickback is upward/ backward motion of the guide bar that may occur when the nose of the saw chain unexpectedly comes in contact with an object. Hold your chainsaw firmly with both hands when the motor is running. Use a firm grip with thumbs and fingers encircling the handles and watch carefully what you cut. Kickback can be caused by: x Striking branches or other objects accidentally with a tip of the saw while the saw chain is moving. x Striking metal, cement or any other hard material near the wood, or buried in the wood. x A dull or loose chain. x Cutting above shoulder height.
Warning symbols on your chainsaw
Read all of this manual carefully.
Do not use your chainsaw in wet conditions or expose it to rain.
Always wear ear and eye protection. Always remove the plug from the socket before inspecting a damaged cable. Be careful not to use your chainsaw if the cable is damaged.

To ensure continued safe operation, check the chain tension as described in this manual after every 10 minutes of use, and adjust back to a clearance of 3 mm as required. Insertion of a detached plug into a 13 amp socket outlet may result in electric shock. Only fit BS1363A approved plugs fitted with the correctly rated fuse (1). The cable wire colours, or a letter, will be marked at the connection points of most good quality plugs. Attach the wires to their respective points in the plug. Brown is for Live (L) (2) and blue is for Neutral (N) (4). Before replacing the top cover of the mains plug ensure that the cable restraint (3) is holding the outer sheath on the cable firmly and that the two leads are correctly fixed at the terminal screws.

Double insulation

Your chainsaw is double insulated. This means that all external metal parts are electrically isolated from the power supply. This is achieved by placing an extra insulation barrier between the electrical and mechanical parts. Double insulation means greater electrical safety and obviates the necessity of having the machine earthed.
Electrical safety x Make sure your chainsaw is correct for your supply. The voltage can be found on the rating plate.
Fuse replacement (UK & Ireland only) If you need to replace the fuse on your extension cable, please note the following: x The plug should be fitted with a 13 amp fuse which is the recommended fuse for your chainsaw. x Only use replacement fuses which are approved to BS1362. x When changing the fuse in your plug, always ensure the fuse cover is refitted. If the fuse cover is missing or damaged do not use the plug. Note: Fuses do not give personal protection against electric shock. Plug replacement (UK & Ireland only)
Warning! Never connect live or neutral wires to the earth pin marked E or. Note: Do not wire an extension cable directly into your chainsaw. Increased safety can be obtained by having a qualified electrician install a high sensitivity (30 mA / 30mS) circuit breaker in the house wiring. If you do not wish to have one installed, then we strongly recommend that the electrical power to your chainsaw be supplied through a high sensitivity residual current device (RCD). The RCD is designed to provide a high degree of personal protection against harmful electric current should fault conditions occur. Warning! The use of an RCD or other circuit breaker unit does not release the operator of your chainsaw from the safety instructions and safe working practices given in this user manual. We recommend that if your mains cable is cut or requires replacement that you return your chainsaw to a Black & Decker service agent. When repaired, your chainsaw will be tested for electrical safety. Cable connection system (UK only) Black & Decker continually makes every effort to achieve the highest standards in performance, quality and reliability. We recommend the use of a new outdoor cable connection system, which gives additional protection against the possibility of water or moisture entering into the cable connector during normal use.

We strongly recommend the use of PVC or rubber covered plugs or connectors with your chainsaw. x Disconnect the plug from the supply. x Cut off the plug and dispose of it immediately.
The new connection system does not release the operator of the tool from the safety precautions and safe working practices given in the manual. Particular attention is drawn to the fact that this connection system is weather resistant, but not suitable for immersion, submersion or being subjected to water jets. Take care to prevent the cable from lying in or trailing through pools of water or from splashing with hose pipes. The following items are available: Am cable, socket, 13 Amp plug Am cable, socket, 13 Amp plug and Cable Tidy frame Am cable, socket, 13 Amp plug and Cable Tidy frame Am cable, socket, 13 Amp plug and Cable Tidy reel This adaptor is only suitable for products rated up to 500 W. It is not recommended for use with hover mowers, rotary mowers with grass collection, chainsaws, shredders and blower vacs. Please contact your local service centre if you need further advice.
Fitting your own extension cable x When making your own extension cable, fit a 13 Amp plug to one end of the cable (see Mains plug replacement) and a female connector to the other end. For wiring instructions, see those supplied with the female connector. x A male connector (see below) is already attached to the power supply cable on your tool. It is non-rewireable and should not be removed. If the connector is damaged and needs replacement, take the tool to a Black & Decker service centre.
Existing cable systems Your tool either comes with a cable attached (the cat. no. ends with a C) or with a male connector built into the tool. If you already own an outdoor cable system with the old female connector shown below, we recommend that you replace this connector with the new female connector, which is available from most major DIY outlets and from Black & Decker service centres (cat. no. A6624S).

female connector

male connector

old female connector

new female connector
Never wire an extension cable with anything other than the female connector supplied and a 13 Amp BS1363A approved plug with the recommended fuse. Never wire a male connector to the extension cable. Never wire an extension cable with a plug of any kind at each end of the cable. This is extremely dangerous and results in the pins being live, which may cause a fatal electric shock.

Follow the instructions supplied with the connector. If in doubt, consult a qualified electrician.
Existing outdoor tools To connect existing Black & Decker outdoor tools to the new system, you will need an adaptor (see below), which is available as an accessory from most major DIY outlets and from Black & Decker service centres (cat. no. A6623S).
Fitting the female connector x To remove the cover, unscrew the fixing screw until it is free of the nut which is located in the hexagonal recess on the underside of the connector. Take care not to lose the nut if it falls out.
The extension cable contains two wires, which are colour coded for easy identification: brown is for Live (L), blue is for Neutral (N). The connector is marked L for Live and N for Neutral. These markings are located inside the body near the terminal screws (see below). x Lift out the cable protector. x Pass the cable through from the narrow end of the cable protector. x Prepare the cable ends to the strip length shown in the illustration. x Remove the cable clamp. x Loosen the terminal screws until you can enter the stripped wires between the raised washer and the terminal. x Connect the brown lead to the terminal marked L and the blue lead to the terminal marked N. Do not fix the wires directly under the screw head. x Locate the cable and cable protector into the body. x Fit the cable clamp over the outer sheath of the cable. Tighten the screws until fully home. x Make sure that the cable clamp is firmly holding the outer sheath of the cable and that the two leads are correctly fixed. x Place the cover onto the connector body. x Securely tighten the fixing screw. x Check that the cable protector is secure and that there are no gaps between the connector body and the cover.
connector body terminal screws clamping washers 6 mm fixing screw
Additional safety instructions for Australia and New Zealand x This appliance is not intended for use by young or infirm persons without supervision. Children must be supervised to ensure they do not play with the appliance. x If the supply cord is damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer or an authorised Black & Decker Service Centre in order to avoid a hazard.
Technical data Bar length Supply voltage (V) Rated input (W) Max. cutting length (cm) Chain speed (no load m/s) Weight (kg) Oil capacity (ml) Safety class
30 cm 230 1300/1400/ 8 3.II

35 cm 230 1400/ 8 3.II

40 cm 230 1400/ 8 3.II
OVERVIEW (fig. A) 1. On/off switch 2. Lock-off button 3. Oil cap 4. Oil level indicator 5. Front guard/chain brake 6. Chain cover 7. Chain cover bolt 8. Guide bar 9. Chain 10. Chain sheath 11. Spanner ASSEMBLY Before assembly, make sure that the tool is switched off and unplugged.

cable clamp

cable protector
Oiling the chain (fig. A) x You must do this whenever you use a new chain for the first time. Take the new chain out of its plastic bag and soak it in chain oil for at least an hour before using it. Use Black & Decker chain oil (cat. no. A6027).
We recommend that you use only one brand of oil during the lifetime of your chainsaw because mixtures of different oils could lead to the oil becoming degraded, which can drastically shorten the lifetime of the saw chain. Never use waste oil, thick oil or very thin sewing machine oil. These may damage your chainsaw.
Note: When the chain is new, check the tension frequently (after disconnecting from the mains) during the first 2 hours of use as a new chain stretches slightly. To increase the tension: x Turn the screw (14) clockwise. USE Let the tool work at its own pace. Do not overload.
Fitting the guide bar and chain (fig. B, C & D)

Wear protective gloves.

Place the saw onto a stable surface. Loosen and remove the chain cover bolt (7) (fig. C). Remove the chain cover (6). Place the chain (9) over the guide bar (8), making sure that the cutters on the upper part of the guide bar face towards the front (fig. B). Guide the chain around the guide bar and pull it to create a loop at the rear end of the guide bar. Place the chain and guide bar onto the saw. Guide the chain around the drive sprocket (12). Place the guide bar onto the studs (13). Make sure that the sliding nut peg (16) locates into the tensioning hole (17). Place the chain cover (6) onto the saw. Fit the chain cover bolt (7) and tighten it finger tight. Turn the screw (14) (fig. D) clockwise until the chain is tight. Make sure that the chain is snug around the guide bar. Do not overtighten. Tighten the chain cover bolt using the spanner supplied.
Filling oil into the reservoir (fig. E) x Remove the oil cap (3) and fill the reservoir with the recommended chain oil. You can see the oil level in the indicator slot (4). Refit the oil cap. x Periodically switch off and check the oil in the indicator; if it is less than a quarter full, disconnect your chainsaw from the mains and refill with the correct oil. Auto-stop chainbrake (fig. F & G) This tool is fitted with an auto-stop chainbrake which will stop the chain within 150 ms each time you release the rear trigger, or if kickback should occur. This brake should be tested before every use.
How to set the chainbrake x Make sure that the tool is disconnected from the mains supply. x Pull the front guard (5) back into the set position. The tool is now ready to use. How the anti-kickback chainbrake works In the event of kickback, your left hand comes in contact with the front guard, pushing it backwards, and stops the tool within 150 ms. How the inertia activated chainbrake works The chainbrake is activated when the front hand guard is pushed forward, either manually, by the back of the users hand or by its own weight. The advantage of the inertia brake is that it is activated by a severe kickback, eg. when the chain hits metal, even if the users hand does not contact the front guard, ie. when the saw is in the felling position.

Checking and adjusting the chain tension (fig. D) Before use and after every 10 minutes of use, you must check the chain tension. x Lightly pull on the chain as shown. The tension is correct when the chain snaps back after being pulled 3 mm away from the guide bar. There should be no sag between the guide bar and chain on the underside.
Note: Do not over-tension the chain as this will lead to excessive wear and will reduce the life of the bar and chain.
How to test the anti-kickback chainbrake x Grip the tool firmly in both hands on a firm surface - make sure the chain is clear of the ground and switch on (see How to switch your chainsaw on). x Rotate your left hand forward around the front handle so that the back of your hand comes in contact with the front guard and pushes it backwards (fig. G). The chain should stop within a few fractions of a second. To reset after the operation of the chainbrake x Follow the instructions for setting the chainbrake. Notes: x It will not be possible to switch the tool on if the front guard is not in the set position. x Avoid re-starting the tool until you hear the motor come to a complete rest. x If the chain does not come to rest immediately then this indicates that it needs tensioning (see Fitting the guide bar and chain).
Make a single felling cut from the other side but stop before you cut through to the notch (fig. I). Drive a wedge or wedges into the felling cut to open it and drop the tree (fig. J).
Logging (fig. K - M) How you should cut depends on how the log is supported. Use a saw horse whenever possible. Always start a cut with the chain running and the spiked bumper (15) in contact with the wood (fig. K). To complete the cut use a pivoting action of the spiked bumper against the wood.
When supported along its whole length x Make a downward cut, but avoid cutting the earth as this will blunt your saw quickly. When supported at both ends x First, cut one third down to avoid splintering and second, cut again to meet the first cut. When supported at one end x First, cut one third up to avoid splintering and second, cut down to prevent splintering. When on a slope (fig. L) x Always stand on the uphill side. When using a saw horse (fig. M) This is strongly recommended whenever possible. x Position the log in a stable position. Always cut on the outside of the saw horse arms. MAINTENANCE (fig. N) Regular maintenance ensures a long effective life for the tool. We recommend you make the following checks on a regular basis. Oil level The level in the reservoir should not be allowed to fall below a quarter full. Top up if low. Chain and guide bar x After every few hours of use, remove the guide bar and chain and clean thoroughly.
How to switch the tool on (fig. A) x Grip your chainsaw firmly with both hands. Push the lock-off button (2) forward and then push the on/off switch (1) to start. x When the motor starts, remove your thumb from the lock button and grip the handle firmly. Do not force the tool - allow it to do the work. It will do a better and safer job at the speed for which it is designed. Excessive force will stretch the chain. If the saw chain or bar becomes jammed: x Switch the tool off. x Disconnect the tool from the mains supply. x Open the cut with wedges to relieve the strain on the guide bar. Do not try to wrench the saw free. Start a fresh cut. Felling (fig. H - J) x Pre-plan a safe exit from falling trees or branches. x Cut one third of the diameter of the tree (Fig. H). Then cut down from above to make a notch of about 45. This way you will avoid pinching the saw.

On reassembling, the guide bar should be turned through 180 and the sprocket nose greased via the sprocket lubrication hole (18). This ensures an even distribution of wear around the guide bar rails.
Saw chain sharpening If you are to get the best possible performance from the tool it is important to keep the teeth of the saw chain sharp. Guidance for this procedure is found on the sharpener package. For this purpose we recommend the purchase of the Black & Decker saw chain sharpening kit (available from Black & Decker service agents and selected dealers). Replacing worn out chains Replacement chains are available through retailers or Black & Decker service agents. Always use genuine spare parts. Saw chain sharpness The cutters will blunt immediately if they touch the ground or a nail whilst cutting. Saw chain tension x Regularly check the chain tension.
What to do if your chainsaw needs repair Your chainsaw is in accordance with the relevant safety requirements. Repairs should only be carried out by a qualified persons using original spare parts, otherwise this may result in considerable danger to the user. We recommend you keep this user manual in a safe place.
ACCESSORIES Cat. no. A6154 A6155 A6156 A6039 A6027 Description 300 mm / 12" chain 350 mm / 14" chain 400 mm / 16" chain Sharpening kit 0.5 l chain oil PROTECTING THE ENVIRONMENT Black & Decker provides a facility for recycling Black & Decker products once they have reached the end of their working life. This service is provided free of charge. To take advantage of this service please return your product to any authorised repair agent who will collect them on our behalf.
TROUBLESHOOTING If the tool does not operate correctly, check the following. Fault Tool will not start. Possible cause Blown fuse. Tripped RCD. Mains lead not connected. Front guard in the brake position Chain tension is too slack. Oil tank empty. Chain tension is too tight. Guide bar sprocket nose needs greasing. Action Replace fuse. Check RCD. Check mains supply. Reset front guard. Check chain tension. Check oil tank level. Check chain tension.

Tool will not start - lock-off button will not slide. Chain does not stop instantly when the tool is switched off. Bar/chain appear hot/smoking.
You can check the location of your nearest authorised repair agent by contacting your local Black & Decker office at the address indicated in this manual. Alternatively, a list of authorised Black & Decker repair agents and full details of our after-sales service and contacts are available on the Internet at: www.2helpU.com. Guarantee Black & Decker is confident of the quality of its products and offers an outstanding guarantee. This guarantee statement is in addition to and in no way prejudices your statutory rights. The guarantee is valid within the territories of the Member States of the European Union and the European Free Trade Area. If a Black & Decker product becomes defective due to faulty materials, workmanship or lack of conformity, within 24 months from the date of purchase, Black & Decker guarantees to replace defective parts, repair products subjected to fair wear and tear or replace such products to ensure minimum inconvenience to the customer unless: x The product has been used for trade, professional or hire purposes; x The product has been subjected to misuse or neglect; x The product has sustained damage through foreign objects, substances or accidents; x Repairs have been attempted by persons other than authorised repair agents or Black & Decker service staff. To claim on the guarantee, you will need to submit proof of purchase to the seller or an authorised repair agent. You can check the location of your nearest authorised repair agent by contacting your local Black & Decker office at the address indicated in this manual. Alternatively, a list of authorised Black & Decker repair agents and full details of our after-sales service and contacts are available on the Internet at: www.2helpU.com. EC DECLARATION OF CONFORMITY GK1330/GK1430/GK1435/GK1440/ GK1630/1635/GK1640 series Black & Decker declares that these products conform to: 98/37/EC, 89/336/EEC, 73/23/EEC, EN 50144, EN 55014 2000/14/EC, Chainsaw 1600 W, Annex V Level of sound pressure, measured according to 2000/14/EC:

(sound pressure)

dB(A) dB(A) dB(A)
LWA (acoustic power) LWA (guaranteed)

Always wear ear protection if the sound pressure exceeds 85 dB(A). Hand/arm weighted vibration value according to EN 50144:

3.5 m/s2

TV Rheinland

Cert. No. BM981084801

Kevin Hewitt Director of Consumer Engineering Spennymoor, County Durham DL16 6JG, United Kingdom
GK1430 GK1435 GK1440 GK1630 GK1635 GK1640 GK1330 GK1630T GK1635T GK1640T

152 153

138 135

140 135

145 144

149 151

146 147

164 136

157 134

165 130

126 846

130 131

159 GK1430 GK1435 GK1440 GK1630 GK1635 GK1640 GK1330
132 GK1630T GK1635T GK1640T

E13317

WWW.2helpU.com

04 - 03 - 02

Australia
DEWALT Industrial Power Tool Company 7 Clarice Road Box Hill, Victoria 3128 Black & Decker 81 Hugo Johnson Drive Penrose, Auckland, New Zealand Black & Decker South Africa (Pty) Ltd Physical address: 39 Commerce Crescent Eastgate, ext. 12, Sandton, Kramerville 2148 Postal address: Postnet Suite 107, Private Bag X65 Halfway House 1685 Black & Decker 210 Bath Road Slough, Berkshire SL1 3YD

Tel. 9200 Fax 7465

New Zealand

Tel. 7600 Fax 8200

South Africa
Tel. (011) 653-1400 Fax (011) 653-1499

United Kingdom

Tel. Fax Helpline 01753 574277

374860-11

Dealer address Date of purchase

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Was this tool bought as a replacement?

Address:....

Town:...

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Dealer address:......... Data protection act: Tick the box if you prefer not to receive further information.

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Was this tool your first purchase?

GUARANTEE CARD
Please complete this section immediately after the purchase of your tool and send it to Black & Decker in your country. If you live in Australia or New Zealand, please register by using the alternative guarantee card supplied.