Ducati ST FAQ

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Revision 1.4 May 4, 2005

Please email ducati_st_faq@bike-gizmos.com with additions, corrections or queries The master copy of this document is at http://www.bike-gizmos.com/DucatiSTFAQ.html A PDF version can be found at http://www.bike-gizmos.com/DucatiSTFAQ.pdf

Table of Contents

Ducati ST FAQ Table of Contents Legend: 0 Dedication 1 Introduction 1.1 About the FAQ 1.1.1 Revision History 1.1.2 Credits 1.2 Model History 1.2.1.2.1.2.1.2.1.2.1.2.1.2.1.2.1.2.1.3 Special Editions 1.4 Model differences between countries 1.4.1 Australia 1.4.2 USA 1.4.3 UK 1.4.4 Other Countries 1.4.4.1 Singapore 1.5 Warranties 1.5.1 Warranty period 1.5.2 Exclusions 1.5.3 Owners Obligations 1.5.4 Limitations of warranty 1.5.5 Repairs outside warranty period 1.6 Recalls 1.7 What to look for when buying a used Duc 2. Specifications
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2.1 Colour Specifications 2.2 ST2 General Specifications 2.3 ST2 Part Numbers and Service Specs 2.4 ST4 General Specifications 2.5 ST4 Part Numbers and Service Specs 2.6 ST4s General Specifications 2.7 ST4s Part Numbers and Service Specs 2.8 Additional Part Numbers 2.8.1 Bearings 2.9 Torque Figures 2.10 Vehicle Identification Number 3. Maintenance 3.1 Running-In 3.2 Servicing 3.2.1 Service Intervals 3.2.2 Service Items 3.2.3 Chain maintenance 3.3 Owners Manuals 3.4 Suspension Setup 3.4.1 General Setup 3.4.2 ST Specific Setup 3.5 Suspension Corrective Actions 3.6 Battery removal 3.7 Oil changes 3.8 Handy Service bits 3.8.1 Bolt Sizes 3.8.2 Cam Belts 3.8.3 Other hints 3.9 ECU Mixture Adjustment 3.10 Steering Head Bearings 3.11 Thermostat 3.12 Getting it up 3.13 Wheel Alignment 3.14 Putting the Rear Wheel back in 3.15 Checking belt tension 3.16 Spare parts 3.17 Valve adjustment 4. Characteristics 4.1 Riding Characteristics 4.2 Performance 4.2.1 Standard Bikes 4.2.2 Modified Bikes 4.3 Speedo Accuracy 4.4 Fuel Consumption 4.4.1 Fuel Tank Size 4.4.2 Observed consumption 4.4.3 Type of fuel to use 4.5 Stands
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4.6 Fairings 4.6.1 Removal 4.6.2 Fasteners 4.7 The clutch 4.7.1 Why do Ducati use a dry clutch? 4.7.2 Advice on removing the clutch 4.8 Security 4.8.1 Spare Keys 4.8.2 The Immobiliser 4.9 What is Desmo anyway? 4.10 Engine Temperatures 4.11 Panel protection 4.12 Other Characteristics 4.12.1 Sight glass on the left of the motor 4.12.2 The Choke lever 5. Common problems, symptoms and remedies 5.1 Regulator 5.2 Clutch Slave Cylinder 5.3 Rear engine bolt 5.4 Clutch Groan 5.5 Clutch Wear 5.6 Fogging Headlight 5.7 Loose alternator nut 5.8 Chain Tensioner Warning 5.9 Fuel Pump Relay 5.10 Counter shaft sprocket retainer clip 5.11 Help! My bike wont start! 5.11.1 Connection problems? 5.11.2 Starter doesnt come on? 5.11.3 Jump starting your ST 5.12 Sluggish Starting 5.Rocker arm wear 5.14 That annoying rattle 5.15 Spongy brake lever 5.16 Front brake lever hits the fairing 5.17 Lack of freeplay in front brake lever 5.18 Battery light comes on intermittently 5.19 Temperature Problems 5.20 Rear Brake Line warning 5.21 Spluttering and Stalling 5.22 Cylinder base gasket leak 5.23 Exhaust popping and/or occasional backfire 5.24 Bike runs poorly, wont rev over about 5000 rpm 5.25 Rusty Steering Head Bearings 6. Modifications 6.1 Engine 6.1.1 Exhausts 6.1.2 Chips / ECU
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6.1.3 Airbox and filters 6.1.4 Combining Opened Airbox, Pipes and Trim Adjustment 6.2 Clutch 6.2.1 Quiet Clutch 6.2.2 Replacement Slave Cylinders 6.3 Tyres (Tires) 6.3.1 Speed Rating 6.3.2 Tyre Pressures 6.3.3 Expected Tyre Life 6.4 Suspension 6.5 Electrical 6.5.1 Lighting 6.5.2 Battery 6.5.3 Battery Theory 6.5.4 Protecting electrical connections 6.5.5 Replacement Starter Cables 6.5.6 Driving Lamps 6.5.7 Accessory outlets 6.6 Brakes 6.6.1 Pads 6.6.2 Discs 6.6.3 Levers 6.7 Luggage and storage 6.7.1 Tankbags 6.7.2 Motobags 6.7.3 Top Boxes 6.8 Grips and Handlebars 6.8.1 Tacki 6.8.2 Heated Grips 6.8.3 Other Grips 6.9 Handlebar Risers 6.9.1 Heli 6.9.2 Munroe 6.10 Cruise Controls 6.11 Sprockets 6.12 Swingarms 6.13 Chains 6.13.1 Chain Maintenance Tools 6.13.2 Automatic Chain Oilers 6.14 Seats 6.14.1 Corbin 6.14.2 Sargent 6.14.3 Russell 6.14.4 Rich's Custom Seats 6.15 Windshields (Screens) and Lips 6.15.1 Laminar Lip 6.15.2 Aeroflow 6.16 Headlight
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6.16.1 Cleaning and upgrading 6.16.2 Replacement Headlights 6.16.3 Headlight-Gizmo 6.17 Sidestand Bypass 6.18 GPS Information & Experiences 6.18.1 Ducati GPS 6.18.2 Garmin StreetPilot GPS Colormap 6.18.3 Garmin eMap, Garmin GPS V 6.18.4 Garmin 2610/2620, Garmin 276 6.18.5 Garmin GPSmap 276C 6.19 Miscellaneous 6.19.1 Sport Touring Comfort Kit 7. Part Equivalences 7.1 Steering Head Bearings 8. Travelling Tips 8.1 What to take 8.2 Puncture Repairs 8.2.1 Removing the Wheels 8.2.2 Removing and replacing the tyre 8.3 Comfort tips for long trips 9. Suppliers 10. Security 11. What the Press think. 11.1 Reviews 11.2 Quotes 11.3 Accolades 11.4 Magazine Back Issues 12. Useful Contacts 12.1 Internet Resources 12.2 Real World Contacts 13. Owners Clubs 14. Acronyms and other odd information 14.1 Pronunciation 14.2 Nicknames 14.3 Naming your bike 14.4 Acronyms 14.5 Games 14.6 Where can I rent a Ducati ? 14.7 Some interesting quotes from the Owners Manual 14.8 Miscellaneous RUI (Really Useful Information) 14.8.1 Parts Pricing 14.8.2 Tips on painting 14.9 ST Trivia 14.10 Whats the fastest color? 15. Copyright and disclaimer 16.1 General Conditions of Reproduction

01 STST2

00-ST4 01-KTM LC4
Yellow 97 ST2 The Duchess 01 STST4 STST2

1.2 Model History

1.2.1 1997
ST2 released. The engine appears to be a descendant of Ducatis first fuel injected street bike, the 907ie, whereas the frame appears to have been derived from a 916 trellis frame. The 907ie was a mixed bag with the old square-tube frame, 851 cases, bigger brakes, 17 wheels (thanks to David Porter for this) Only a limited number of ST2s were available in the US in 1997 due to delays in obtaining certification for the necessary emission standards - it seems as though these bikes were 1998 spec (see below). Cost of an ST2 was around $12,000 in the USA. Luggage was available as an option.

1.2.2 1998

Colours available were silver and black, with the dull gold frame and wheels. Red was available in Europe, but one of the listers who tried to order a red 98 ST2 in the US was told No. Fully adjustable Showa forks and Showa shock (threaded preload adjuster), although it seems the ramp style preload adjuster made it onto some of the later 98 models. Cost in the US was $12,495 bags included. Engine is indeed a mix of water cooled 4-valve and air-cooled 2-valve, with a 2 mm bigger bore than 900SS motor for 944 cc. Engine colour is sort of brownish, goldish, grey. (Thanks to Kyle for this section) Some earlier ST2s have DUCATI as stamped on part of the right side engine case cover

1.2.3 1999

1999 saw introduction of ST4 with all the suspension components of the ST2 for US$14,495 (or $14,995) but bags were an $800 option for ST4 (later included since they couldnt sell too many 99s).
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I believe the 1999 ST4 got the gold remote-reservoir master cylinders. 1999s had the ramp adjustable preload Showa shock, not threaded. ST4s this year also got the same brake discs as the 996 (bright gold aluminium carrier, not steel. I know by 2001 they changed to the less expensive discs as found on the other bikes). Most importantly (for those suffering 98 owners) the electrical system was changed to a 3-phase higher wattage output system. (Thanks to Kyle for this section). Some 1999 model STs had their brake and clutch master cylinders changed to the new plastic type.

1.2.4 2000

Thanks to Ian Ellis for this material! ST2: ST4:
updated graphics equipped with Kryptonite anti-theft padlock auxiliary power socket (takes BMW plug) new clutch master cylinder standard equipment includes colour matched saddle bags non-self-retracting side stand (fix a problem and call it an upgrade!) gold coloured frame retained
updated graphics equipped with Kryptonite anti-theft padlock auxiliary power socket new clutch master cylinder standard equipment includes colour matched saddle bags non-self-retracting side stand Ducati Racing gun metal grey frame and wheels
From the Ducati UK website (no longer on line): All Versions: Change in logo on fairing. Ducati Sport touring logo on the fuel cap. Rear splash guard removed. New design aluminium carrier for disc brakes. Anti theft lock under seat. Power take-off for accessories. Protective treatment with double transparent layer on the fairing. Brembo PSC 12 clutch master cylinder with higher hydraulic ratio. 320mm Brembo front discs. Brembo P4 30-34 front calipers with 4 pistons and new PSC master cylinder with Radial technology. Steel braided brake lines. Brake pads of sintered, high friction material. Side stand without automatic return, with fully extended lock and anti engine start-up sensor. ST4:
front disc increased to 5MM (probably to address warping of rotors)
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Owner observation: Clutch and front brake reservoirs change from metal coffin style to plastic cylinders mounted above the bars - late in the model year plastic tank guard got ST logo added In US ST2 colour was red or blue metallic. ST4 was red or yellow MSRP ST2 - $12,495 MSRP ST4 - $14,695

1.2.5 2001

2001 was the last year the ST4 was imported into the US, although they were still being sold in Europe and Australia during 2002. A redesigned, sealed clutch slave cylinder was released in 2001 and should be fitted to all 2001 model STs. (Note there was a recall for some 2001 model STs check with your dealer to see if this applies to you.) See Clutch section below for details. ST2:
Lower spec Sachs rear shock replaces the Showa. Yellow introduced for the ST2. Frame changed to metallic grey colour. Engine is metallic silver grey. Enlarged 12mm engine to frame linkages. Lighter sealed-for-life battery. New timing belt rollers with stepless adjustment on hub for fine timing. Showa front forks with inverted chromium plated 43 mm legs and spring preload adjustment. Colours available: Red, Metallic Blue, Red. Metallic Silver Frame Colour: Metallic Grey

ST4:

Frame changed to metallic grey colour. Engine is metallic silver grey. Enlarged 12mm engine to frame linkages. Lighter sealed-for-life battery. New oil cooling pipes with double o-ring. New Sachs rear shock absorber. New, lighter front brake discs. Colours available: Red, Metallic Blue, Red. Frame Colour: Metallic Grey.

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Metzeler ? Metzeler ? Brakes
?? ?? Double floating drilled disc, hydraulically operated by a control lever on right handlebar. Brake calipers with separate 30/34-4 pistons 320 mm 88 sq cm Brembo FERIT I/D 450 FF PS 16 Fixed drilled steel disc, hydraulically operated by a pedal on the right side. 245 mm 25 sq cm Brembo FERIT I/D 450 FF PS 11
Electrical 12V-55W low beam unit, poly-ellipsoidal with capacitor; Headlamp 12V-55W high beam unit; 12V-5W parking light. 12V-1.2W warning lights; Instrument Panel 12V-2W and 3W instrument lights (Anyone know which is which?) Turn Indicators 12V-10W bulbs 12V-5/21W double filament bulb for stop light and parking light; Tail light 12V-5W bulb for number plate light Battery 12V-10 Ah Generator 12V-520W Starter motor 12V-0.7kW Electronic voltage regulator protected by a 40A fuse. Spark Plugs Champion RA 59 GC Suspension Hydraulic upside-down fork provided with outer adjuster for rebound, compression and preload (for inner springs of fork legs) 43 mm 130 mm
Type Front Staunchion Diameter Travel
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Type Rear Travel: Rear wheel travel:
Progressive, with a rocker arm connecting frame and upper pivot point of the shock absorber and an arch connected at the bottom to the swingarm. Shock absorber allows adjustment of compression damping and rebound, and spring preload. 65 mm 148 mm Capacities 21 litres, including 4 litre reserve 3.4 litres, Shell Advance Ultra 4 0.492 litres (each leg), Shell Advance Fork 7.5 or Donax TA Shell Advance Brake DOT 4 3.5 litres, Antifreeze Shell Advance Coolant or Glycoshell 35-40% + water
2.5 ST4 Part Numbers and Service Specs
The following information comes from publicly available Ducati information. Data related to Model Year 2000. Item Timing Belt Valve clearances Opening: Intake Exhaust Closing: Intake Exhaust Valve lift: Intake / Exhaust Chain Front and rear sprocket/chain kit no. Clutch Kit no. Air filter Fuel pump intake filter Fuel filter Throttle opening (idling) mm (0 clearance) 525 HV 67620331A 19020013A 42610091A 42710031A 42540041B (degrees) Part Number 73710041A Other Data Service Tension: 2.5 (with gauge 887650999) assembly / inspection (mm from cold) 0.16 0.18 / 0.05 0.18 0.21 0.23 / 0.05 0.23 0.16 0.18 / 0.16 0.25 0.11 0.13 / 0.11 0.20

3.12 Getting it up

Ive included this section on putting your ST up on the centre stand within the maintenance section of the FAQ, because having your bike up on the centre stand is a pre-requisite to almost everything we do in maintenance. The following excellent description comes from Patrick: I've 'learned' how to center stand a pre 2000 Gold Wing. At almost 800 pounds it felt almost impossible. My problem was I was using brute force and not technique. My father showed me how do it correctly much to my amazement. Once I got the technique down it was very easy. The pull up and step down method works well but you can refine it. I do the following. Left hand over hand grip on left handlebar grip, right hand over hand grip on center stand lift handle, right foot pushes center stand down until solid and even ground contact is made. From here I pivot my body and straighten my feet, hips and shoulders as much as possible to be in line with the bike. I end up facing about 15 degree to the right to the direction the bike is pointed in. That exhaust is HOT otherwise I'd be exactly parallel with the line of the bike. Feet, hips and shoulders should be in a straight line. Knees bent, back straight, right arm tensed with a slight bend and heels firmly on the ground. Get as close to the bike chassis as you can being mindful of that left exhaust pipe. Then you push down on the stand like your stomping on cars brakes and straighten you knees while slightly stretching your back straight up. At first do a rocking motion at a steady cadence using the center stand as the fulcrum. Typical 1-2-& THREE motion with the three being the final lift. Ensure you keep strong force down on that center stand peddle with your right foot. If I'm feeling manly and there are folks looking at me I skip the rocking motion. I'm 6'4" and 240 but I don't like straining myself in vain. You can do this easily after a bit of practice and you will be able to control the full lock of the center stand so there isn't an ugly jerk or 'clunk' noise when the stand gets settled. My girlfriend has learned how to do this as well. She is 5'6" 115 lbs (soaking wet, holding a brick on a full stomach) and she can center it after a few rocking motions. So it's mostly technique and not strength. Just my $0.02 though.

3.16 Spare parts

Spare parts catalogs are available online at the Ducati website (provided as PDFs) http://www.ducati.com/bikes/catalogs.jhtml
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3.17 Valve adjustment

Some owners like to save themselves a bundle of money and do their own valve adjustments on their ST2. Be prepared to spend quite some time doing the job. The most important thing to remember BEFORE you start is that you will need some shims, and you will not know what size until after you strip your bike down. If you are serious, a workshop manual makes a very good investment. A couple of resources are available to assist: A very clear explanation of whats involved can be found here: http://www.ducatisuite.com/valves.html An instructional video available from ProItalia: http://www.proitalia.com Another good online guide is available at http://www.ducatitech.com/2v/maint/adjust/index.html Some pages from a magazine can be found at http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2228/desmo.htm

4. Characteristics

4.1 Riding Characteristics
One of the things that becomes apparent very quickly on riding an ST2 (same for ST4?) is that there is a certain rev range that the bike is happiest to ride at. Trying to accelerate from under about 3,000 rpm causes some vibrations in the bike. Trying the same thing at 4,000 rpm provides smooth, even power all the way up to the maximum.

4.2 Performance

Performance is one of those very subjective, much talked about, and often useless subjects. Performance is sometimes measured in horsepower (either at the engine or rear wheel), or by boasting about the bikes top speed. Strangely enough, Ducati actually publish the expected top speed of their bikes. Presumably so that you know how fast youll be able to go if you travel on one of the German autobahns!

4.2.1 Standard Bikes

Quoted top speed (according to Ducati) is 225 k/h for an ST2, and 245 k/h for an ST4. Quoted top speed for an ST4s is 255 Km/h (158 mph). One list member, who has ridden an ST2 and Yamaha R6, indicates that although the ST2 will not accelerate as fast as the R6 (no surprise), its cornering speed is equivalent.

4.2.2 Modified Bikes

Matt at SLMS http://www.utahducati.com/ raised an ST2 to 100 HP with hi comp pistons and different cams (may have been 907ie cams) Stock for an ST2 is about 73 rear wheel HP. About 5HP can be gained by taking off the airbox lid, but bike sounds like a vacuum cleaner.

5.18 Battery light comes on intermittently
This could be caused by a number of thing, most likely to be the regulator if you are riding an earlier model (98) ST2. If youve eliminated the regulator, try the tip is provided by Alain: I had that problem one time. I disconnected the two plugs between the alternator and the regulator (one is under the air box, the other one near the radiator cap). I put some WD 40 in there and, connected again firmly. No problem now.
5.19 Temperature Problems
Temperature problems are amongst the most common enquiries by the members of the ST owners list. Many new owners feel as though they may have a temperature problem when they first notice that the temperature climbs up above 212 F or 100 C on a warm day. As explained in section 4.10, these observations are normal for these bikes. If you temperatures are consistently high, dont drop once mobile, or are way above those listed in the owners manual, then get your bike checked. The manual for my 2001 ST2 indicates that the maximum temperature is 120C (248F). If this temperature is exceeded, then the temperature indicator will start blinking. Occasionally though, there is a real temperature problem, with the temps rising far above what is considered acceptable. Here are some tips if your engine is overheating: q Check to see if both sides of the radiator are the same temp, by hand on side tanks. If not then you have a circulation prob. Make sure that the small tube from fill up/header tank isn't kinked (Takka).
5.20 Rear Brake Line warning
A potential problem with the rear brake line wearing through on an ST2 was reported by Ray C: I have just noted an interesting and potentially serious problem with the rear brake hose "carrier" on my ST2.
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I'm not aware that anyone has ever mentioned this before, so maybe my bike is an isolated case, but here are the details for your information: On the ST2 there is a wire "carrier" above the swing arm which holds the rear brake hose out of harms way. It is presumably designed to prevent the free length of hose from becoming abraded or trapped by the rear suspension spring and associated mechanicals. I have noticed that the wire carrier is actually damaging the hose quite severely. In my case the hose has a chunk of rubber missing from its wall because the end of the wire has been digging into it during the natural movement of the swingarm. Although the hose has not failed and I have since "modified" the carrier slightly, there is a great potential here for unexpected failure of the rear brake. I would advise all ST owners to check the carrier on their bikes to make sure they do not have a similar problem. My Ducati dealer has put in a warranty claim and they will be replacing the hose, but it doesn't sound like Ducati are planning on changing or modifying the wire carrier. As a temporary measure I have fitted a piece of thin rubber sleeving over the wire end and also bent the wire end outwards slightly to help prevent further damage to the hose.

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6. Modifications

The Ducati ST is a brilliant bike in standard form, but there are always those who want to modify their bike for a number of reasons, including performance, sound and comfort. Most STs have some sort of little extra or modification because we love our bikes, and want to lavish gifts on them! The section below provides a non-exhaustive list of some of the common modifications. Warning some modifications can affect your new bike warranty

6.1 Engine

6.1.1 Exhausts
An informative thread on the sounds of various exhausts starts here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/st2_owners/message/71689 One of the first candidates for modification is the exhaust system on the ST. Why? Some people will tell you that its for performance, others will say for the sound. Either way, its an easy mod, and not too expensive. There are many brands of after market can Staintune, Arrow, Remus, Ducati Performance, and so on. One thing to check though sometimes a change to the exhaust will require a matching chip to adjust the fuel mixture. Another thing to check is that the ST2 and ST4 exhaust systems are slightly different in the way they mount on the bike. A tip from Dan C: Just make certain the muffler brackets are far enough out to clear the swingarm. After the mufflers are mounted, sit on the bike and have someone look from behind as you lightly bounce the back of the bike. As the suspension goes through its travel have them look to see if the two screws holding the mufflers to the brackets will clear the swingarm, on both sides. Staintunes are favoured with some because they come complete with a removable baffle in each can, which is held in with a bolt. This gives the owner a choice of a nice Ducati sound which is loud, or LOUD From Justin Berth: You say you want a 'deep sonorous sound'. If that is your number one priority then you NEED Carbon Fibre slip-on pipes. For a road bike you don't buy CF for weight - will it save you an extra 3 seconds getting to the shops? Maybe, but the SOUND is what you get. CF [] removes the high frequency sounds (which sounds a little 'tinny' from a [metal] pipe) and gives you that wonderful, deep, thumping bassy twin sound that only a 90degree twin can make. Wonderful! 6.1.1.1 Standard cans, professionally modified Baines Racing in the UK perform mods to standard exhausts to make them look standard, but sound very different. They also offer a replacement chip that's more suitable with the straight-throughs. http://www.bainesracing.com/ 6.1.1.2 DIY Exhaust Mods

6.1.1.4.4 Ducati Performance

Content needed!

6.1.1.4.5 D&D
From: Robert Mohns LOUD. as in BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM. I had a pair of D&D's on my 750, and this described them well. Sil Motor pipes have a much, much nicer sound. For sheer obnoxious volume, though, it's hard to beat D&D's!

6.1.1.4.6 Termi

6.1.1.4.7 Arrow
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6.1.2 Chips / ECU

Until the release of the ST4s, replacement of the chip was a simple and highly beneficial modification. The ST4s was released with a completely different ECU system, and replacement requires changing the entire ECU. For quite some time, no after market unit was available for the ST4s. 6.1.2.1 Chips (ST2, ST4) If you are looking for an after market chip, the ST2 uses an FIM 161 which was preceded by an FIM 142. FIM chips can be installed without changing exhaust for smoother operation and some small power increase (2HP at 7K RPM), but are more commonly installed as a matched item for after market exhausts. http://www.fuelinmoto.com.au/ From Kyle: By far the mostly widely accepted "best" chip is the FIM 161. A bit more (or a lot more) than the other chips, but usually the best cure for the lean running and backfiring common on new bikes. Was the only thing that finally got my 98 ST2 to run right. The following very interesting extract regarding tuning comes from the FIM web site: 11 - How does the CO trimmer work and how do I set it? Every model of Weber injected bike has a CO trimming function which allows the idle mixture to be set. In fact the trimmer affects fuel delivery over the entire RPM range, but with a lesser effect at higher RPM. The amount of fuel added or subtracted from the base fuel duration varies from model to model, as it's programmed differently for different models and ECUs. However it is necessary to adjust the CO Trim to obtain optimum performance. 16M computers (748/916 Biposto/ST2) On these ECUs the trimmer is located inside the ECU and the rubber bung must be removed for access.NOTE Always re-seal the rubber bung with waterproof tape (ie Gaffer tape or Duct tape) after you have finished adjusting CO. Next to the chip socket there's a very small (1/4" square) trimmer potentiometer. This has the same function as the external trimmer screw on P7 and P8 ECUs. The Trimmer on the 16M ECU has a range of about 3/4 turn, or 270 degrees. When you hit the end stop, STOP !!! There is no roll-over on these trimmers and they will break if you try to force them. When you screw the adjuster clockwise the mixture is leaned. To set the default position, simply set the trimmer in it's mid-rotation point. You can also use a voltmeter to set the 2.5 volt point. How do I set the trimmer correctly? Firstly let's look at the factors involved in the mixture system: The fuel entering the engine is controlled by the injectors, principally by how long they are open for each engine cycle. Typically at idle they are open from about 1mS to about 2mS. The CO trimmer affects this duration as shown in the table above. This change is the same for both cylinders, and cannot affect the CO cylinder balance. The computer measures the butterfly position using the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). This sensor is precisely aligned on the butterfly shaft and afftects not only fuel delivery but ignition advance as well. Many owners are tempted to move this sensor on the shaft, as you can get more fuel delivery from the ECU in this way. But there are several goods reasons not to do this:

6.8.2 Heated Grips

The following information on heated grips comes from Newcenturion (sorry I dont know your real name send me an email!): I put Kimpex heated grip "liners" on my '00 ST2, under Tacki-grips. They are thin adhesive wraps with elements like wide rear window defrosters made for snowbiles and cost under $20. I used a plug-in accesssory fuse addition from Trak Auto, about $4, as power supply so they turn off when the bike is shut off. They have a 3position toggle switch I mounted on the left side dash panel, with the in-line ceramic resistor. They work fine for me, and sounds like the set described earlier are identical(Aerostitch?), don't know what the cost difference is. Expect to pay over $100 for Gerbings gloves and around $60 for the thermostat.

6.8.3 Other Grips

Some owners have tried other brands of grips and found them to be a big improvement over the standard grips. Some of these include: Pro Grip Gel 714, anyone else want to nominate others? Johar sportbike grips are foam, good shape, medium size and help minimise buzz and numbness. $5.95 (in the US) Ideal for those with past broken hands.

6.9 Handlebar Risers

Many owners find that the position of the standard bars doesnt suit them, particularly on a long trip. Some options are available, and its a case of try them and see. Some owners opt for simple risers, which consists of a plate fitted under the standard pars with longer bolts, just to raise the bars up (and slightly back) - usually about inch. A more serious option is to replace the bars themselves with adjustable versions, which are also raised. One thing to be aware of is that raising the bars may also involve some longer cables or hydraulic lines. You also need to check that your clutch and brake master cylinders will clear the fairing if you raise the bars. Also check the length of lines and cables if the bars are at full lock in either direction. Brancs of riser include Dr. Desmo,

6.11 Sprockets

A common (and easy!) modification is to change the relative gearing of the engine to the rear wheel by altering one of the sprockets. Commonly, the rear sprocket is changed to another with one extra tooth this has the affect of improving your off the line and low down performance, but at the trade off of a slightly lower top speed, and slightly higher engine speed while cruising. As an example Doug changed his sprocket set on his 98 ST2 (15:42) to an ST4 set, (15:43) and at 160kph his engine speed went from 6,000 rpm to 6,200 rpm. Moving from a 15:42 to a 14 t. front is a 7% reduction which helps with slow speed driving and increasing torque. It is the equivalent of a 15:45, but that would require a new chain. No one on the list has reported a failure from this mod. Much discussion on the list was had regarding the merits of an odd number (in total) of sprocket teeth. This following simple explanation of why an odd number of teeth is a good thing comes from Warren: Random tooth hunting: A chain by it's construction has an even amount of rollers and with an even toothed sprocket the same teeth contact the same rollers. Put an odd toothed sprocket on the wear is shared between all the teeth and rollers. Just mathamatics. Ducati bevels have different teeth numbers in the cam drives for the same reason.

6.12 Swingarms

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Occasionally owners will want to replace a swingarm (usually if its damaged in some way). The only after market one Im aware of is made of polished aluminium, is German, and can be found at: http://www.ducati-kaemna.de/uk/katalog/Swingarms.html

6.13 Chains

Chains require a great deal of care and attention, and if not kept regularly lubricated are subject to premature wear with potentially disastrous results.
6.13.1 Chain Maintenance Tools
Opinions vary on the wisdom / necessity / frequency / method of chain cleaning. Some owners like to clean their chain regularly; others dont bother (especially if using an automatic oiler). One product that I know does work is the KettenMax (an Austrian product Ketten = Chain in German). Check out www.kettenmax.com or www.bike-gizmos.com for more information
6.13.2 Automatic Chain Oilers
There seems to be regular interest in automatic chain oilers. Commercial options include the ScottOiler, the HawkeOiler and the ProOiler. Also of interest is Paul Foxs custom-made FoxOiler. http://www.foxharp.boston.ma.us/bikes/foxoiler There is also useful information on the HawkeOiler, the Loobman, the Scottoiler and the German CLS200 at the VStrom Wiki: http://www.vstrom.info/wiki/index.php?What%20are%20all%20the%20various%20kinds%20of%20automatic% 20chainoilers%3F 6.13.2.1 HawkeOiler From: William Hadder I have a Hawke oiler on my ST4s and would recommend it. You just have to remember to push the button to oil the chain. Only thing I did was to get a dual feeder to the chain from Pro-oiler. Haven't had a chance to use it yet (Winter) but it looks like it should be fine. i found the single feeder kept one side of the chain lubed better than the other. Didn't present any problems however. From: Peter Young I have had a Hawke on my ST2 for a couple years. My OEM chain and sprockets lasted 17K miles. I like the fact that I can add oil any time I think it might be a good idea. OTOH, I need to remember to punch the button. How-to and photos by Peter Young: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/st2_owners/files/Hawke%20Oiler/ 6.13.2.2 ProOiler From: Robert Cellucci There are many advantages to the pro-oiler. I don-t consider it overkill at all. I think of it as a much improved and more effective Scottoiler. I know a lot of people like the Hawke oiler, but it just makes no sense to me. I want an automatic oiler that I can pretty much forget about. The cost, if you get the dual side oiler is about the same. The Scottoiler will oil whenever the motor is running. The pro-oiler will only oil when the bike is moving. It is impossible to set the Scottoiler for all conditions. you can only set it for the condition you use most and hope it stays adjusted. The PO can be reset to the precise correct point and that will work for all speeds and distances.

6.15.1 Laminar Lip

From Fariborz: Laminar Lip offer two different models, Standard and Touring: Standard: http://www.laminarlip.com/st4h.jpg Touring : http://www.laminarlip.com/st2tour.jpg
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I have ridden Bob's ST4S with the standard model. I was wondering if anyone has used the Touring model and what you think about it. I am also interested in hearing other people's experience with the Standard model, Pro (s) and con(s)? From: Jack Ward I do, I like it. Im 62 and although the air is a little dirty at helmet level, I prefer it on long rides. It is useful to tuck behind when passing truck with their associated turbulence. I also experienced a slight (2 mpg) increase in gas mileage whe I installed it a couple of years ago. I was surprised at first and thought it was a mistake, but I removed and checked it to make sure. It increased mileage. From: Bob Pave Yes, it generally smoothes out the airflow and it seems more comfortable and protective to me. From: Rob Mohns I use one as well. I'm 5'8", 30" inseam, to give you an idea of my proportions. For me, the airflow is not only higher but incredibly smoothed out at my helmet, where the stock windscreen buffeted my helmet around constantly. I am a very happy Laminar Lip customer. (Comparing my experience to jack's, it may be that the turbulence is above my helmet!) The "touring" model was not available when i ordered mine. I may order it and try it sometime. [] I discovered after putting on the lip that the temperature had to get quite a bit lower before I needed neck protection to stay warm. Unexpected bonus. From: Phil Stob Yes, I too have one. It certainly raises the envelope a bit, quiets things down, and gets the flow up higher on your helmet. It makes it warmer and more comfortable in cool and wet weather. I take it off in hot weather to get the air flow. I always thought it would be really cool if it were adjustable, but its worth the money as it is. From: Gary Eagan I've ridden both the standard and touring lip quite extensively, however on the '04 body style. I helped Andy Corcoran develop the touring lip, and I find it to be extremely good in all conditions, including very long days (well more than 1,000 miles). I've yet to try the Lip on the old style fairing and screen, but have all the confidence in the world in Andy's skills. If he builds it, it will work. The touring lip is a couple of inches higher and has a somewhat different curve, alowing to the give a wider, smoother peripheral flow. The standard lip is much better than any aftermarket screen I've tried, especially the taller Ducati Performance screen, which I find to be quite turbulent. But I was looking for a bit wider envelope than the standard lip gave. I have a Touring Lip on the ST 3 I have in the garage and have used it several times for 1,000 mile or more daily jaunts. it doesn't isolate one from the wind, just smoothes it out very, very well. Compared to the Standard Lip, I'd go with the touring model every time. But again, my experience is solely on the new body style. Call Andy at Laminar Lip, offend him for me (just a traditional Hobatz practice) and pick his brain. He is an extremely knowledgeable aero engineer. In fact, he is the one who initially taught Paige Ortiz the toe holds of aero flow. They are as good, and I believe better, than anyone in the industry, and neither is full of moto babble bullshit. If they know, they'll tell you. If they don't they wont. Pretty simple. From: Barry Hobbs I'm about 5'10 with a 30" inseam(to roughly judge torso height), and the standard height bugflect. er, laminar lip on my '02 ST4s pushed the air up from hitting me just below the neck, to right about the brow vents on my Arai. If I duck just a little, the air is definitely going right over me. Seems sufficiently stable at all quasi-legal US speeds that won't get you arrested, but it becomes admittedly looser if you disconnect it from the screen using the heavy-duty plastic velcro-like mounting stickies. [Ed: 3M ScotchLok] That is to say, the mounting stickies are not terribly robust once you start popping them on and off, but the glue holding them to the windscreen is definitely stout. I've taken mine off just once, and it got a little more wobbly, but I'm not fearful that it's going to come off at any speed below 120. They admit that the sticky things will get weaker with use, and supplied mine with an extra set. Biggest drawback: it looks like a bugflector, because, well, it basically IS a bugflector. For pictures, I generally

Now, I ride double up. So the g/f has all her stuff along, too. We split the panniers 50/50. All the tool stuff goes in the Sargent tank bag or under the seat in the Motobag. Last year we had a top trunk which was great. Otherwise we use a waterproof river bag tied behind the passenger on the hand rail. She uses most of this space. They require space for such important items like curling irons, or hair dryers. I have a modified list of tools that i made up from Richard's ST-2 site. You must have special stuff like the correct socket to get those damn mirrors off, etc. We stay in hotels, so no camping gear.

8.2 Puncture Repairs

8.2.1 Removing the Wheels
Related to this is a tip on reinstalling the rear wheel
8.2.2 Removing and replacing the tyre
Anyone care to write this bit?
8.3 Comfort tips for long trips
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The following tips were supplied by Michael Pagan. Different things work for different people if youve got some tips, we want to hear them! Well, this is getting into areas of personal ergonomics, and I DO know riders who just seem to be able to go for hundreds of miles with no pain. Not me, though. Here are some tricks that work for me on 500-mile rides: 1) Get a new seat. There's the huge Corbin-vs-Sargent debate. The problem is, you'll never know until you put 200 miles on one which will fit. Motorcycle saddles are like ski boots that way. I'm lucky in that I found out early that my ass was Corbin-shaped. The odd thing is that a long distance seat will usually be harder rather than softer. It should also be wider to allow you to scoot around some. 2) Vary your sitting position. Every 15 minutes or so, change up! Left cheek, right cheek, lean forward, lean back. A little change allows blood to get to vital areas for comfort. 3) Get a throttle lock. Sure, it will help your wrists, but it will also allow you to scoot around on the seat more since you can ride with only the fingertips of your right hand on the bar. Be alert when you do this, as you aren't covering the brakes. 4) Carry a towel. Every other gas fill-up switch between sitting on the folded up towel or on the bare seat. This will change the pressure points and allow you to ride farther. 5) Try a gel seat or airhawk (in lieu of the towel in #4). I have an airhawk. They're nice but they're way expensive ($175). It's a high-tech air mattress, really. The company's main business is selling cushioning systems for paraplegics to use in wheelchairs to prevent bedsores, so they know their sh*t. The airhawk is good for extra miles before butt burn, but it's even better to switch back and forth between a seat pad and no seat pad. Remember, pain comes not just from pressure points, but from having the *same* pressure points for a long period of time. 6) Ride with people who have small gas tanks. I ride with a guy who has a Triumph Speed Triple. That thing is on the fumes after 120 miles. This guarantees a rest stop every 2 hours or less (depending on speed). I hear Honda VTR1000's are good for this :-) 7) Ride faster! 500 miles at an average of 50 mph is 10 hours. 500 miles at an average of 75 mph is 6 hours 40 minutes. Less time in saddle = less butt burn. 8) Take the back roads. I've found that I'm way more saddlesore on the highway than on a twisty road. Problem is that the twisty road will double your travel time, so it evens out in the end. 9) Keep cool! Leather pants are safer, but denim jeans ventilate better. If you're hot, you sweat and stick to your riding pants. This causes Monkey Butt (go ask an Enduro rider what that is). 10) Try different riding gear. My Aerostich produces less butt burn than my leather pants. I think it's because the 'stitch slides around better on the seat and allows for more shifting of position.