Ducati ST4S Abs - 2003 Manual
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|afromm||7:57am on Thursday, August 5th, 2010|
|Good choice to have for a laptop, upgraded an old Hitachi Deskstar for this drive, and great difference in speed. Somewhat Satisfied After two years, this drive finally went South on me. I wish hard drives were not so short lived. I guess two years is not so bad.|
|_nnn||2:24am on Sunday, May 23rd, 2010|
|Fast, quiet, and totally reliable. Not a single one. Has not given me ANY problems. Fast, stable, reliable. You need a very good quiet fan Never installed. Glad I didnt. Terrible service|
|Quille||1:36pm on Saturday, May 22nd, 2010|
|Garbage item Only used about one month and it was broken. I had to back up data, reinstall OS and exchange the item with WD. excellent item for the most part, ease of installation was my issue. inexperience with unformatted.|
|The Heretic||10:05am on Sunday, March 28th, 2010|
|This series of disks from Seagate are reliable, quiet and suitable for personal and business use. Good balance for the price. Buffer size.|
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Ducati ST FAQ
Revision 1.4 May 4, 2005
Please email email@example.com with additions, corrections or queries The master copy of this document is at http://www.bike-gizmos.com/DucatiSTFAQ.html A PDF version can be found at http://www.bike-gizmos.com/DucatiSTFAQ.pdf
Table of Contents
Ducati ST FAQ Table of Contents Legend: 0 Dedication 1 Introduction 1.1 About the FAQ 1.1.1 Revision History 1.1.2 Credits 1.2 Model History 18.104.22.168.22.214.171.124.126.96.36.199.188.8.131.52.184.108.40.206 Special Editions 1.4 Model differences between countries 1.4.1 Australia 1.4.2 USA 1.4.3 UK 1.4.4 Other Countries 220.127.116.11 Singapore 1.5 Warranties 1.5.1 Warranty period 1.5.2 Exclusions 1.5.3 Owners Obligations 1.5.4 Limitations of warranty 1.5.5 Repairs outside warranty period 1.6 Recalls 1.7 What to look for when buying a used Duc 2. Specifications
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2.1 Colour Specifications 2.2 ST2 General Specifications 2.3 ST2 Part Numbers and Service Specs 2.4 ST4 General Specifications 2.5 ST4 Part Numbers and Service Specs 2.6 ST4s General Specifications 2.7 ST4s Part Numbers and Service Specs 2.8 Additional Part Numbers 2.8.1 Bearings 2.9 Torque Figures 2.10 Vehicle Identification Number 3. Maintenance 3.1 Running-In 3.2 Servicing 3.2.1 Service Intervals 3.2.2 Service Items 3.2.3 Chain maintenance 3.3 Owners Manuals 3.4 Suspension Setup 3.4.1 General Setup 3.4.2 ST Specific Setup 3.5 Suspension Corrective Actions 3.6 Battery removal 3.7 Oil changes 3.8 Handy Service bits 3.8.1 Bolt Sizes 3.8.2 Cam Belts 3.8.3 Other hints 3.9 ECU Mixture Adjustment 3.10 Steering Head Bearings 3.11 Thermostat 3.12 Getting it up 3.13 Wheel Alignment 3.14 Putting the Rear Wheel back in 3.15 Checking belt tension 3.16 Spare parts 3.17 Valve adjustment 4. Characteristics 4.1 Riding Characteristics 4.2 Performance 4.2.1 Standard Bikes 4.2.2 Modified Bikes 4.3 Speedo Accuracy 4.4 Fuel Consumption 4.4.1 Fuel Tank Size 4.4.2 Observed consumption 4.4.3 Type of fuel to use 4.5 Stands
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4.6 Fairings 4.6.1 Removal 4.6.2 Fasteners 4.7 The clutch 4.7.1 Why do Ducati use a dry clutch? 4.7.2 Advice on removing the clutch 4.8 Security 4.8.1 Spare Keys 4.8.2 The Immobiliser 4.9 What is Desmo anyway? 4.10 Engine Temperatures 4.11 Panel protection 4.12 Other Characteristics 4.12.1 Sight glass on the left of the motor 4.12.2 The Choke lever 5. Common problems, symptoms and remedies 5.1 Regulator 5.2 Clutch Slave Cylinder 5.3 Rear engine bolt 5.4 Clutch Groan 5.5 Clutch Wear 5.6 Fogging Headlight 5.7 Loose alternator nut 5.8 Chain Tensioner Warning 5.9 Fuel Pump Relay 5.10 Counter shaft sprocket retainer clip 5.11 Help! My bike wont start! 5.11.1 Connection problems? 5.11.2 Starter doesnt come on? 5.11.3 Jump starting your ST 5.12 Sluggish Starting 5.Rocker arm wear 5.14 That annoying rattle 5.15 Spongy brake lever 5.16 Front brake lever hits the fairing 5.17 Lack of freeplay in front brake lever 5.18 Battery light comes on intermittently 5.19 Temperature Problems 5.20 Rear Brake Line warning 5.21 Spluttering and Stalling 5.22 Cylinder base gasket leak 5.23 Exhaust popping and/or occasional backfire 5.24 Bike runs poorly, wont rev over about 5000 rpm 5.25 Rusty Steering Head Bearings 6. Modifications 6.1 Engine 6.1.1 Exhausts 6.1.2 Chips / ECU
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6.1.3 Airbox and filters 6.1.4 Combining Opened Airbox, Pipes and Trim Adjustment 6.2 Clutch 6.2.1 Quiet Clutch 6.2.2 Replacement Slave Cylinders 6.3 Tyres (Tires) 6.3.1 Speed Rating 6.3.2 Tyre Pressures 6.3.3 Expected Tyre Life 6.4 Suspension 6.5 Electrical 6.5.1 Lighting 6.5.2 Battery 6.5.3 Battery Theory 6.5.4 Protecting electrical connections 6.5.5 Replacement Starter Cables 6.5.6 Driving Lamps 6.5.7 Accessory outlets 6.6 Brakes 6.6.1 Pads 6.6.2 Discs 6.6.3 Levers 6.7 Luggage and storage 6.7.1 Tankbags 6.7.2 Motobags 6.7.3 Top Boxes 6.8 Grips and Handlebars 6.8.1 Tacki 6.8.2 Heated Grips 6.8.3 Other Grips 6.9 Handlebar Risers 6.9.1 Heli 6.9.2 Munroe 6.10 Cruise Controls 6.11 Sprockets 6.12 Swingarms 6.13 Chains 6.13.1 Chain Maintenance Tools 6.13.2 Automatic Chain Oilers 6.14 Seats 6.14.1 Corbin 6.14.2 Sargent 6.14.3 Russell 6.14.4 Rich's Custom Seats 6.15 Windshields (Screens) and Lips 6.15.1 Laminar Lip 6.15.2 Aeroflow 6.16 Headlight
computer believe that the machine actually is losing traction. There are two stages of ABS activation: Stop further rider input: The ABS unit closes a valve between the lever/pedal and the brakes, preventing an increase in stopping power. (This feel like a kick at the lever and/or pedal.) This first stage is designed to prevent wheel lock-up without reducing braking pressure at the time. Reduce braking power: The ABS unit momentarily releases pressure on the brakes. (This feels like the bike jumps forward as braking pressure and deceleration force decrease. Some riders find this unnerving, but the system is designing as intended.) This ends as soon as possible. The ABS computer senses deceleration during a braking operation (eg, from level pull/pedal push until you release). If either stage 1 or 2 activates, the computer remembers how much deceleration force the bike was exerting before it started to lose traction, and limits braking to that limit for the remainder of the event. The computer resets (forgets this limit) as soon as the braking event ends eg, you release the brakes, indicating that no further braking is required. Front and rear wheel antilock are handled independently. However, if the front and rear wheels show very, very different speeds for example, if you ride an extended wheelie and the front wheel slows or stops spinning the ABS computer decides it does not have enough information to make an intelligent decision, and deactivates ABS until the data looks sane again. Also in 2003, the accessory power socket was upgraded to support 20 amps. (The editor of this FAQ does not recommend trying to pull that much continuous power!). This may be because they had to run substantial power to the ABS unit under the seat, and it was easy to upgrade the socket wiring too. Colours available: Matt Grey (Titanium), Red, and Metallic Grey with red wheels. Frame colour: Metallic Grey
For the 2004 series of Sport Touring the ST2 and ST4 were both dropped. A new 3 valve ST3 was added to the range, and fits in between where the ST2 and ST4 were. The ST4s and ST4s ABS complete the range. The entire range was restyled with a new front fairing and better headlight which is adjustable from the instrument panel. Handle bars are height adjustable, the seat has been completely revised, and adjustable brake and clutch levers were introduced. New instrumentation was included. Catalytic converters are included for non-USA models (according to the Ducati.com web site). All ST models now allow the bike to warm up in neutral with the sidestand down. Immobilizers are now standard across the entire ST range. CAN Line electronics were added to all STs essentially this means that many signals will share just two wires, greatly simplifying the wiring on the motorcycle. ST3: In 2004, Ducati introduced the replacement to the ST2: the 3-valve ST3. Producing more power than the ST2 and with better air intake at high engine speeds, the ST3 has made quite the stir. See any magazine review for more details. (Ducati mechanic and owner LT Snyder reviewed the ST3 for Motorcycle Consumer News in their February 05 issue. See <www.mcnews.com> for back issues.) The ST3 also got CAN network electronics, improved multifunction instruments, a taller windscreen and much improved
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Metzeler ? Metzeler ? Brakes
?? ?? Double floating drilled disc, hydraulically operated by a control lever on right handlebar. Brake calipers with separate 30/34-4 pistons 320 mm 88 sq cm Brembo FERIT I/D 450 FF PS 16 Fixed drilled steel disc, hydraulically operated by a pedal on the right side. 245 mm 25 sq cm Brembo FERIT I/D 450 FF PS 11
Electrical 12V-55W low beam unit, poly-ellipsoidal with capacitor; Headlamp 12V-55W high beam unit; 12V-5W parking light. 12V-1.2W warning lights; Instrument Panel 12V-2W and 3W instrument lights (Anyone know which is which?) Turn Indicators 12V-10W bulbs 12V-5/21W double filament bulb for stop light and parking light; Tail light 12V-5W bulb for number plate light Battery 12V-10 Ah Generator 12V-520W Starter motor 12V-0.7kW Electronic voltage regulator protected by a 40A fuse. Spark Plugs Champion RA 59 GC Suspension Hydraulic upside-down fork provided with outer adjuster for rebound, compression and preload (for inner springs of fork legs) 43 mm 130 mm
Type Front Staunchion Diameter Travel
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Type Rear Travel: Rear wheel travel:
Progressive, with a rocker arm connecting frame and upper pivot point of the shock absorber and an arch connected at the bottom to the swingarm. Shock absorber allows adjustment of compression damping and rebound, and spring preload. 65 mm 148 mm Capacities 21 litres, including 4 litre reserve 3.4 litres, Shell Advance Ultra 4 0.492 litres (each leg), Shell Advance Fork 7.5 or Donax TA Shell Advance Brake DOT 4 3.5 litres, Antifreeze Shell Advance Coolant or Glycoshell 35-40% + water
2.5 ST4 Part Numbers and Service Specs
The following information comes from publicly available Ducati information. Data related to Model Year 2000. Item Timing Belt Valve clearances Opening: Intake Exhaust Closing: Intake Exhaust Valve lift: Intake / Exhaust Chain Front and rear sprocket/chain kit no. Clutch Kit no. Air filter Fuel pump intake filter Fuel filter Throttle opening (idling) mm (0 clearance) 525 HV 67620331A 19020013A 42610091A 42710031A 42540041B (degrees) Part Number 73710041A Other Data Service Tension: 2.5 (with gauge 887650999) assembly / inspection (mm from cold) 0.16 0.18 / 0.05 0.18 0.21 0.23 / 0.05 0.23 0.16 0.18 / 0.16 0.25 0.11 0.13 / 0.11 0.20
CO rate 0.5 (standard) Spark plug (type) Part No. Electrode gap Pick-up air gap
% Vol. RA 59 GC 67040121A mm mm
1.84 (EU) 2.39 (USA) 2.39 (CH) From 3% to 6%
2.6 ST4s General Specifications
Items in GREEN indicate differences between the ST4 and ST4s
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Many items need to be verified. Dimensions Length Width Height Ground clearance Dry Weight Loaded Wheelbase Seat Height mm 910 mm (mirrors are the widest point on each side of the bike) 1180 mm 165 mm (lowest point is the exhaust going under the bike from the forward cylinder) 212 kg / 467 lbs. 420 kg 1430mm 820 mm Engine 2001 Twin cylinder, four stroke, 90 degree L type, longitudinal, 996 cc 2 per cylinder, Desmodromic, operated by four rockers (2 opening rockers and 2 closing rockers) and a single overhead camshaft. It is operated by the crankshaft through spur gears, belt rollers and toothed belts. 1:11.5 +/- 0.kW, 117 HP at 9000 rpm 98 Nm at 7000 rpm 10,000 rpm 98.0 mm x 66.0 mm RON Unleaded Frame Tubular trellis with upper section made of high strength steel 30 degrees 24 degrees 102 mm Transmission 6 speed gearbox with constant mesh gears, gear change pedal on left side of motorcycle. Drive is transmitted from the engine to the gearbox main shaft via spur gears. 15 // / / / / 24 Dry clutch operated by control lever on left handlebar. 15 teeth 38 teeth DID 525 HV 5/8 x 1/16 (Chain specifications supplied in inches by Ducati) 102 Wheels
Head nuts, 2V engines (approach/final) Head nuts, 4V engines (approach/final) Timing ring nuts (head / transmission)
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Flywheel / alternator nut Crankshaft gear nut Clutch nut Timing transmission gear nut Spark plugs Oil plug Oil cartridge filter no. 44440034A Oil mesh filter
20x1 22x1 20x1 14x1 12x1.25 22x1.5 16x1.5 22x1.5
Engine oil Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
MAIN TORQUE FIGURES FRAME Thread x pitch (mm) 25x1.5 25x1.5 16x1.5 38x1.5 33x1.5 8x1.25 12x1.25 10x1.25 8x1.25 8x1.25 8x1.25 10x1.5 8x1.25 10x1.5 15x1.25 8x1.25 10x1.5 8x1.25 10x1.25 Nm 5% Notes 63 63/48 22/14 22/20 22/23/44 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2 Grease RETINAX - HDX 2
Front wheel nut Front / rear wheel nut (ST) Rear wheel nut Rear wheel (748-996) RH nut (wheel) LH nut (rear sprocket) Chain tensioning screws Chain eccentric adjuster screws (748-996) Rear sprocket retaining nuts Head / bottom yoke bolts (748-996) Head / bottom yoke bolts (ST) Head / bottom yoke bolts (M900ie) Head yoke bolts (SS) Head / bottom yoke bolts (SS) Swing arm pivot pin screws Swing arm pivot pin screw (748-996) Fork lug screws Front brake caliper screws Rear brake caliper screws Engine mounting bolts
2.10 Vehicle Identification Number
Occasionally buyers will like to know whether the bike they are looking at in the showroom is as advertised. The following diagram will show you how you can determine the year of manufacture: For an ST2: ZDM 1T B 9 P --- -------| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | * W B 000000 - - - -----| | | |_____Sequential number | | | | | |______Plant of manufacture | | | |______Model Year | |____Check digit (varies)
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1. increase the rebound damping 2. excessive spring preloading: try reducing it 3. replace the rear shock absorber spring with a harder spring 4. raise the fork sleeves (or stanchions) through the top and bottom yokes to lower the front end ride height The rear wheel has too little grip 1. if this problem becomes apparent in the early stages of throttle opening, it could be caused by excessive rear end ride height 2. excessive rear shock absorber spring preloading: decrease it 3. excessive compression damping: decrease it 4. another possible cause is excessive rebound damping, especially if you experience bouncing when travelling over bumps.
3.6 Battery removal
Many (all!) owners complain about the tedious process of removing the fairing just because you want to do some work on the battery. Vincent gives us his secret to removing the battery without having to remove the fairing: I made a small modification on my ST2 to be able to remove the battery without removing more the lower right part of the fairing. Just drill a 25mm diameter hole in the horizontal part of the dark grey cover in the right upper part of the fairing. With such a hole, youre able to reach the + contact of the battery and remove it. This hole is fully invisible. You can then remove the battery, in less than five minutes.
3.7 Oil changes
Engine oil level can be checked through the sight glass on the right hand side of the motor. Oil level should be checked when the bike is warm, and the oil has had a chance to settle after the engine has stopped. Owners have varying opinions on how often to change the oil on their bike (some change at 1500k, some at 5000k) - the general rule is that oil is cheap: Change it more frequently than the service intervals, and always use a new filter when you replace the oil. Instructions from Mike: Remove the sump plug with the correct size allen key ?? 10mm. Remove and clean the mesh filter on the side of the engine. When everything has drained put 'em back on. When you refill take it really easy or you will overfill the sump (this is the only fiddly bit). When the oil is near the bottom of the sight glass - go and make a coffee and come back 10 minutes later - it will probably be higher. Before topping up to the brim, run the engine (provided the sight glass is, say half full), make another coffee, let it all settle. By now you will probably need a slash, then check the level again. I found more oil appeared from nowhere! I think you are probably getting the picture - take the last few ccs really slowly. Many owners find that its good practice to follow these few tips when changing oil: q Lubricate the seal on the new filter with a smear of oil to aid hand tightening q Fill the filter with oil prior to fitting, to assist oil flow when the bike is restarted q Dont overfill - when adding oil, it takes time for the oil to settle in the sight glass. Add small amounts and wait. Patience is important when it comes to changing oil on these bikes!
5.24 Bike runs poorly, wont rev over about 5000 rpm
The following eui (extremely useful information) comes from John Clifton. Sounds like he found out the hard way. Numerous ST owning friends of mine have had this problem occur, usually after a service where the fuel filter has been replaced: Symptom - bike runs very poorly, refusing to rev over about 5000rpm. Cause - one of the fuel lines in the tank attached to the fuel pump has come adrift, usually due the pipe not being reattached properly after having the fuel filter changed during a service Remedy - remove tank, lay upside on ground (hopefully on something soft, say your pillion's jacket - they can put up with the petrol fumes.), remove fuel pump from tank, be careful as the seal can make it a bit of a struggle, re-attach offending hose, stop, now recheck the hoses to make sure they are all going to the right outlets, replace the o-ring seal with that spare one you carry under the seat, grease the o-ring with a little chain lube, carefully put the pump back in the tank, tank back on bike etc. Ride away cursing the useless mechanic who failed to attach the hoses properly in the first place.
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5.25 Rusty Steering Head Bearings
Some owners have reported that Ducati is pretty lousy when it comes to putting gread on the steering head bearings, resulting in some noticeable rusting. Dave Harhay: I just finished inspecting the 03ST4s steering head bearings. Like everyone says there's not a lot of grease on them. FYI there is a seal, so the chance of water and crud getting into the bearings is small. I am not sure of the other models however. I put in a liberal amount and retorqued the special nut. From Ron Ginter: I've got rusty steering head bearings! They will be replaced under warranty (phew!), but I wondered if anyone has had a similar experience? My dealer says that Ducati doesn't grease them very well because they don't consider that we'll ride their touring bike in the rain <g>, so I immediately wondered if anyone in the soggy Pacific Northwest has had this problem? From d888spoltd: Sadly, your dealer is correct. I don't think that's any different than many other manufacturers however. Check out this months RoadRacing World for a commentary on bearings and lubricating them. I took apart wheels, steering head, and swingarm pivot on both my Ducatis when I bought them and each were fairly starved of grease. It never hurts to take them apart, clean and regrease. Bill Anderson says: I posted the rusted steering head bearings question on the UK ST Yahoo site because of the similar climates of the UK and PNW. I got an e-mail from a gentleman in Northern Ireland who replaced his at 35,000 miles because of rust. From Darren George: Mine were stuffed at 20 thousand km, I was not happy, the boys told me they HAVE to be re-packed at 1000km`s or they rust, as apparently they go sparingly with the grease at the factory dear [expensive[ little buggers too!! Now I re-grease them every 10 thou or so. I was told at the local dealership, they do their own things as well as factory procedure, and theyve found in the past that the head bearings need re-packing at the first 1000km service, so that they last at all.and having to replace mine @20,000, Im not going to argue, as apparently they mustnt have been packed maybe its more like a grease top-up, more than an actual re-pack. Sandy Thompson: My 2002 ST4s had rusty lower steering bearings at about 4000 mostly sunny miles. From Robert Mohns Over the past few months, I'd noticed that the bike wasn't handling quite right. I wasn't sure even how to describe it, but when I was in a couple weeks ago to have a new front tire put on, Eric gave it a test ride and said that he thought the steering head bearings were in bad shape "dry", he described it. So he pulled them out, and sure enough, they were not happy campers brown sludge. The upper "seal" doesn't really fit closely enough to seal, so water and dirt can leak in. The bottom is sealed fairly well, though so water and dirt get in and mix with the grease around the bearings, resulting in the bearings moving in what looks and feels just like mud! The upper bearings weren't nearly as bad, but weren't good either. Two new bearings were $48 each, and the bike handles like it's supposed to again! If, like me, you ride your bike in the rain, you might want to consider checking and if necessary replacing the bearings as your mileage mounts
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The Ducati ST is a brilliant bike in standard form, but there are always those who want to modify their bike for a number of reasons, including performance, sound and comfort. Most STs have some sort of little extra or modification because we love our bikes, and want to lavish gifts on them! The section below provides a non-exhaustive list of some of the common modifications. Warning some modifications can affect your new bike warranty
An informative thread on the sounds of various exhausts starts here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/st2_owners/message/71689 One of the first candidates for modification is the exhaust system on the ST. Why? Some people will tell you that its for performance, others will say for the sound. Either way, its an easy mod, and not too expensive. There are many brands of after market can Staintune, Arrow, Remus, Ducati Performance, and so on. One thing to check though sometimes a change to the exhaust will require a matching chip to adjust the fuel mixture. Another thing to check is that the ST2 and ST4 exhaust systems are slightly different in the way they mount on the bike. A tip from Dan C: Just make certain the muffler brackets are far enough out to clear the swingarm. After the mufflers are mounted, sit on the bike and have someone look from behind as you lightly bounce the back of the bike. As the suspension goes through its travel have them look to see if the two screws holding the mufflers to the brackets will clear the swingarm, on both sides. Staintunes are favoured with some because they come complete with a removable baffle in each can, which is held in with a bolt. This gives the owner a choice of a nice Ducati sound which is loud, or LOUD From Justin Berth: You say you want a 'deep sonorous sound'. If that is your number one priority then you NEED Carbon Fibre slip-on pipes. For a road bike you don't buy CF for weight - will it save you an extra 3 seconds getting to the shops? Maybe, but the SOUND is what you get. CF  removes the high frequency sounds (which sounds a little 'tinny' from a [metal] pipe) and gives you that wonderful, deep, thumping bassy twin sound that only a 90degree twin can make. Wonderful! 18.104.22.168 Standard cans, professionally modified Baines Racing in the UK perform mods to standard exhausts to make them look standard, but sound very different. They also offer a replacement chip that's more suitable with the straight-throughs. http://www.bainesracing.com/ 22.214.171.124 DIY Exhaust Mods
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There is a notch in the computer chip. Take note of where that notch is located on the stock chip before you pull it out. The new chip should have that same notch, so orient it just like your stock chip. With the right handlebar switch in the 'run' position, turn the ignition on. You should hear the fuel pump begin to cycle, and your lights will come on. If you don't get this, turn the key off and check the install of the chip.
6.1.3 Airbox and filters
Many owners modify their airbox by drilling largish holes in the lid (to get better airflow and a bit more noise). Details of this can be found in the archives on the list (Ive not had time to research it yet). Other options open to you are specially designed replacements. There are also a number of after market, washable filter elements that can be used. There are two from K&N, one of which requires some trimming of the lid to fit. The other (part #du-9098) should fit without any mods. Justin provides more detail: The centre divider of the airbox lid usually has to be removed when fitting an aftermarket air filter, such as a K&N, which is a lot deeper (and hence more filtering area) than a standard filter. It's not removed to produce more noise, although more noise might be the by-product. I managed to fit my K&N by only removing the very ends of the divider in the lid, but I have to be careful when replacing the lid and filter to ensure a correct fit. By the way, fitting an aftermarket filter does not give an increase in performance (I've spent enough time on various Dyno's to know this), but allows you access to a filter which is cleanable, and hence reusable. LARGE holes in the rear face of the airbox lid Will give you an increase in performance though. The filter itself is not the restriction - rather the lid is.
6.1.4 Combining Opened Airbox, Pipes and Trim Adjustment
ktkt_200 asked: I've had my airbox drilled at the back for better flow. Fixed on a Ducati Performance Exhaust. Had the trimmer on my 99 ST4 richen by 45 degrees. Do I need an aftermarket EPROM or would the trimmer adjustment suffice??? From Fariborz: To really know the answer you need to put an exhaust analyzer in the mufflers and measure the CO content. Anywhere between 3% and 6% should work but closer to 6% is preferred. But using a less scientific method (aka seat of the pants analysis) from a cruising speed of lets say around 55 mph in 3rd gear going down on a small incline, chop the throttle completely. If you hear the exhaust popping sounds you are still running lean and might need a new chip.
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6.2.2 Replacement Slave Cylinders
A recent survey on the ST Owners List asked the following question: If you have replaced YOUR bikes clutch slave cylinder with an aftermarket one, what brand have you replaced it with? And were you happy with the replacement? 33 replies: Replaced with Yoyodyne? Happy with the Yoyodyne? Standard clutch slave cylinder was better than Yoyodyne? Replaced with Evoluzione? Happy with the Evoluzione? Standard clutch slave cylinder was better than Evoluzione? Replaced with Pro Italian? Happy with the Pro Italian? Standard clutch slave cylinder was better than Pro Italian? 24.24% 21.21% 0% 6.06% 9.09% 0% 6.06% 6.06% 0%
Replaced with other brand? 27.27% A comparison of two of Yoyodyne and Evoluzione slave cylinders can be found at: http://ducatigarage.netfirms.com/cylinders.html http://www.yoyodyneti.com http://www.evoluzione.net Information on VeeTwo clutch slave cylinders can be found at: http://www.veetwo.com/
6.3 Tyres (Tires)
Tyres are always a hotly debated topic. Most riders have their strong preference with tyres, and dont understand why anyone would use anything else. It seems that tyre preference is dictated by a number of factors, including riding style, cost, longevity as well as plain old fashioned bias. One of the common opinions of the ST owners is that the Michelin Macadams which are standard fitment on some STs are holding the handling of your bike back. These tyres have been known in quite a few cases to cup - replacing them with a more sports oriented tyre will provide noticeable difference. The ST2 rear wheel is 5.5" and capable of carrying a 180/55 ZR 17rear tyre- the same as the ST4 stock tyre. (vs the 170/60 ZR17 stock) A survey on the ST Owners group provided the following results: Preference for Sports/ Touring tyres where the emphasis is on spirited road riding: 34 replies Metzeler MEZ 4 Michelin Macadams Michelin Pilot Sports Dunlop 207 Dunlop 205
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126.96.36.199 Ducati Designs Headlight If you are serious about improving the lighting of your ST, then you need to consider the twin headlight replacement kit. Go to www.ducatidesigns.com
Battery problems seem to go with owning one of these bikes, especially the earlier models. Many owners choose to buy a battery tender to keep the battery trickle charged while the bike isnt in use. Part numbers for 2000 and earlier model battery: Yuasa YB16AL-A2 Part number for the 2001 (lighter sealed battery): Yuasa YT12B-BS The newer battery is the same battery as used in the Yamaha R1 (Thanks to Ian Ellis for this) Note: The retainer clip is different for the two types of batteries.
6.5.3 Battery Theory
This section was supplied by Ray C. Its brilliant - thanks!
It just goes to show how different "science" and "reality" can be. I have also lost batteries when left on trickle charge over winter before, although not in recent memory. There can be a whole variety of reasons for these failures and obviously, without knowing specifics of each case, it is hard to know what may have been the reasons for failure. Admittedly, if you know of a number of people that have left their batteries on charge continuously all winter and they failed very quickly in all cases, it would certainly give rise to a belief that the continuous charging was at fault. I'm going to try to provide you with some more help here and you can decide what works best for you :o) First of all this may be quite long, so those of you that think you are okay on battery theory and practice may want to lurk elsewhere! I guess I should point out that (hopefully) I have some expertise in this area because I designed battery charging systems and power supplies for nine years ( And.no, I didn't work for DelTran! ;o) ) Although I don't necessarily have all the answers, I'm more than happy to put my experience to some use. Maybe I should explain the battery types, because there are so many popular misconceptions and I'm even guilty of promoting a few myself! We're talkin' lead-acid cells only..technically divided into five types (five!!! I hear you say), they are all variants along the same basic idea, they are. Flooded, Sealed, VRLA, AGM and Gel. A flooded battery is your traditional wet lead-acid cell with lead plates and sulphuric acid, topped up with distilled water when the fluid levels drop; A sealed battery is generally a flooded battery except its sealed from the user and contains a sufficient amount of acid to sustain a chemical reaction for a defined lifetime (usually 3 to 5 years); A VRLA is a Valve Regulated Lead Acid Battery, it is sealed but it has a valve which permits the safe release of gases created during charging; An AGM cell (stands for Absorbed Glass Matte) is actually another sealed VRLA and is often thought of as a Gel cell, technically its not and is really a wet cell but its sulphuric acid is suspended in the fibrous mat and the
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Often the question comes up about the type and quality of the socket and corresponding plug on the ST. Ill leave it to our resident Socket Expert (John Swiatek) to explain (prices are in USD): There are many manufacturers/distributors of this plug and socket. Amp Inc, BMW, Bosch, Hella, HB, John Deere to name a few. There are also many grades of quality. Some of the sockets are all metal, some are plastic. Some sockets like the BMW (made by Amp) have watertight connections. but they cost $28 a piece. Some of the plugs have no strain relief's, some have both strain relief's and rubber boots. The John Deere AL25073 is plastic, I believe it is $8 from the dealer. John Deere has a nicer part (MG82002966) but it is $20.68 from my dealer. Unfortunately the plastic sockets, like the John Deere, tend to hold the plug like a wet noodle. Some tend to heat up with high current; (the contact resistance at the connection point is another form of IsquaredR loss). My wife claims she can feel the difference in heat in her electric vest. I continue to evaluate the different sockets and plugs for my kits. The nicest sockets (for the money) that I can find I had to import from Germany. They are all metal. They "click" when the plug is inserted. I can sell these for $14.95 (slightly more than the John Deere part but way nicer). As a side note, I am considering importing a "military looking" socket with screw on cover that is retained by a chain. It would be really cool on a dual sport, or maybe an antique bike. It will not be cheap however, probably $25-30. I have three different versions of plugs available also. Plug prices range from $6.95 to $11.95 for the superduper deluxe model. To those of you who purchased STx kits and received a price sheet with different prices than what are shown here, I apologize. I am still evaluating/modifying this business plan. When I have a stable product list and price sheet available I will post it. If you are interested contact me off list at firstname.lastname@example.org More information can be found at http://www.jastek7.com
Some interesting reading from Warren: A little while back I came across some info about Brembo brakes on the Yoyodyne web site. http://www.yoyodyneti.com/BremboFAQ.htm In the technical notes it does state that these systems are not compatible with silicone based fluid. The eals are rubber and react with the fluid causing them to swell causing severe piston retraction problems. There is also a bleeding procedure which is good to read.
Brake pads are (again!) person preference. Check the following link for some technical information from one supplier: http://ferodobraketech.com/brakepads.html
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Heli bars are used by many of the contributors to the ST list. Some advice on mounting is provided by Ian Ellis: The Heli paint is rather thin and the bars are slightly larger diameter than the stock. Put your switch blocks on carefully so as not to need to touch up paint. Grease up the bar under the throttle sleeve. It seems to trap water in there and mine rusted up some. I have not figured out how to initially align the bars to the triple clamp. It would be nice if Heli put registration marks on the mounting towers so you could start aligned. I eyeball the first fit. Make little marks with a grease pencil or
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regular pen to see where the bars need to move after you have taken a test ride. You will have problem with the choke racing, particularly if you like your bars angled towards the back. I took the fairing off and loosened the choke cable at the throttle body. I turn the bars full left and put slack into the cable so it is not activating the choke. That means on start up you will need to rotate the lever further to choke, but I have never not had enough enrichment to start (bike has run down to 42 deg F). Then I take a small zip tie and pull the cable housing up towards the speedo. I then zip tie the cable to the rectangular wire retainer that it runs through so that the slack is concentrated where it is needed. Make sure you check your bar clearance to the tank. Adjust the stops to make clearance. Easier with fairing off but possible with it on if you have a shorty socket wrench. Take your watch off first (it will scratch your tank when you cram your hands down there). Drill little holes in the non-visible part of the rubber caps and tie a thin nylon string to it. Trap the other end of that under the mounting blocks. That way when the cap inevitably falls off you can find it. Option is to use rubber cement but I didn't like the mess and how it was harder to pry the caps off against the soft paint.
Information on the Munroe adjustable bars is available from http://www.munroemotors.com
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