CAUTION: Clamp the transducer cable to transom near the transducer. This will help prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed.

Good location

Poor location Good location
Good location Poor angle Good and poor transducer locations.
How low should you go? For most situations, you should install your Skimmer transducer so that its centerline is level with the bottom of the boat hull. This will usually give you the best combination of smooth water flow and protection from bangs and bumps.
Transom Transducer centerline
Hull bottom Align transducer centerline with hull bottom.
However, there are times when you may need to adjust the transducer slightly higher or lower. (The slots in the mounting brackets allow you 6
to loosen the screws and slide the transducer up or down.) If you frequently lose bottom signal lock while running at high speed, the transducer may be coming out of the water as you cross waves or wakes. Move the transducer a little lower to help prevent this. If you cruise or fish around lots of structure and cover, your transducer may be frequently kicking up from object strikes. If you wish, you may move the transducer a little higher for more protection. There are two extremes you should avoid. Never let the edge of the mounting bracket extend below the bottom of the hull. Never let the bottom the face of the transducer rise above the bottom of the hull. Shoot-thru-hull vs. Transom Mounting Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability. There is no possibility of damage from floating objects. It can't be knocked off when docking or loading on the trailer. However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks. First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same hull. This is caused by differences in hull lay-up and construction. Second, the transducer angle cannot be adjusted for the best fish arches. This can be a problem on some hulls that sit with the bow high when at rest or at slow trolling speeds. Follow the procedure listed in the shoot-thru-hull installation section at the end of this lesson to determine if you can satisfactorily shoot through the hull. TRANSOM TRANSDUCER ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING The best way to install the transducer is to loosely assemble all of the parts first, place the transducer's bracket against the transom and see if you can move the transducer so that it's parallel with the ground. 1. Assembling the bracket. Press the two small plastic ratchets into the sides of the metal bracket as shown in the following illustration. Notice 7

there are letters molded into each ratchet. Place each ratchet into the bracket with the letter "A" aligned with the dot stamped into the metal bracket. This position sets the transducer's coarse angle adjustment for a 14 transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms have a 14 angle.
Align plastic ratchets in bracket.
2. Aligning the transducer on the transom. Slide the transducer between the two ratchets. Temporarily slide the bolt though the transducer assembly and hold it against the transom. Looking at the transducer from the side, check to see if it will adjust so that its face is parallel to the ground. If it does, then the "A" position is correct for your hull. If the transducer's face isn't parallel with the ground, remove the transducer and ratchets from the bracket. Place the ratchets into the holes in the bracket with the letter "B" aligned with the dot stamped in the bracket. Reassemble the transducer and bracket and place them against the transom. Again, check to see if you can move the transducer so it's parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3. If it doesn't, repeat step 2, but use a different alignment letter until you can place the transducer on the transom correctly.

Ratchets

Insert bolt and check transducer position on transom.
3. Assembling the transducer. Once you determine the correct position for the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the following figure. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.

Nut Metal washer

Rubber washers Bolt

Metal washer

Assemble transducer and bracket.
4. Drilling mounting holes. Hold the transducer and bracket assembly against the transom. The transducer should be roughly parallel to the ground. The transducer's centerline should be in line with the bottom of the hull. Don't let the bracket extend below the hull! Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You will drill one hole in the center of each slot. Drill the holes using the #29 bit (for the #10 screws). 9

Transom Transom

Position transducer mount on transom and mark mounting holes. Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
5. Attaching transducer to transom. Remove the transducer from the bracket and re-assemble it with the cable passing through the bracket over the bolt as shown in the following figures.
Route cable over bolt and through bracket. Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.

Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.
TRANSDUCER ORIENTATION AND FISH ARCHES If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because
the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest in the water or at slow trolling speeds.

Partial fish arches

Transducer aimed too far back
Transducer aimed too far forward
Full fish arch Proper transducer angle Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.
If the arch slopes up but not back down then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down and needs to be raised. NOTE: Periodically wash the transducer's face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity or may even prevent operation. 13
SHOOT-THRU-HULL PREPARATION The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials (such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if the material is removed from the chosen area.
Fill with epoxy Flotation material Inner hull
Epoxy to hull first Outer hull Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.
For example, some (but not all) manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass, then a core of balsa wood, finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass. Removing the inner layer of fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes the outer layer of fiberglass. The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures, the hull is watertight and structurally sound. Remember, the sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. Any air bubbles in the fiberglass or the epoxy will reduce or eliminate the sonar signals. WARNING: Do not remove any material from your inner hull unless you know the hull's composition. Careless grinding or cutting on your hull can result in damage that could sink your boat. Contact your boat dealer or manufacturer to confirm your hull specifications. To choose the proper location for thru-hull mounting, anchor the boat in 60 feet of water. Add a little water to the sump of the boat. Plug the transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on, then hold the transducer over the side of the boat. Adjust the sensitivity and range controls until a 14
second bottom echo is seen on the display. (You will need to turn off both automatic and ASP.) Don't touch the controls once they've been set. Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in the sump of the boat. Observe the sonar signal to see if there is a noticeable decrease in sensitivity. The second bottom signal may disappear and the bottom signal may decrease in intensity. Move the transducer around to find the best location. If the sensitivity control must be increased greatly to compensate, then the transducer should be mounted on the outside of the hull. If not, then mark the location that shot through the hull the best and follow the instructions on the following pages for a shoot-thru-hull mounting.

Transducer location (high speed) Transducer location (trolling speed)
Shoot-thru-hull transducer locations for high speed or trolling speed operation.
Shoot-thru-hull Installation 1. Make sure the area is clean, dry and free of oil or grease, then sand both the inside surface of the hull and the face of the transducer with 100 grit sandpaper. The surface of the hull must be flat so the entire transducer face is in contact with the hull prior to bonding.

Spread epoxy here

Sand this surface
Epoxy transducer to hull.
2. Follow the instructions on the epoxy package and mix it thoroughly. Do not mix it too fast, because it will cause bubbles to form in the epoxy. Apply a small amount on the face of the transducer as shown above, then spread a small amount onto the sanded area on the hull. Place the transducer into the epoxy, twisting and turning it to force any air bubbles out from under the transducer face. The face of the transducer should be parallel with the hull, with a minimum amount of epoxy between the hull and transducer. After the epoxy dries, route the cable to the sonar unit. POWER AND CABLE CONNECTIONS The unit works from a 12-volt battery system. For the best results, attach the power cable directly to the battery. You can attach the power cable to an accessory or power buss, however you may have problems with electrical interference. Therefore, it's safer to go ahead and attach the power cable directly to the battery.
CAUTION: When using the unit in a saltwater environment, we strongly recommend that you shut off the power supply to the power cable when the unit is not in use. When the unit is turned off but still connected to a power supply, electrolysis can occur in the power cable plug. This may result in corrosion of the plug body along with the electrical contacts in the cable and the unit's power socket. In saltwater environments we recommend you connect the power cable to the auxiliary power switch included in most boat designs. If that results in electrical interference, or if such a switch is not available, we recommend connecting direct to the battery and installing an inline switch. This will let you shut off power to the power cable when the unit is not in use. When you are not using the unit, you should always shut off power to the power cable, especially when the power cable is disconnected from the unit.
To unit Optional power off switch for saltwater installations
Black wire 12 volt battery Red wire with 3 amp fuse
Power and transducer connections for the Cuda family sonar units (direct battery connection shown).
If possible, keep the power cable away from other boat wiring, especially the engine's wires. This will provide the best isolation from electrical noise. If the cable is not long enough, splice #18 gauge wire onto it. The power cable has two wires, red and black. Red is the positive lead, black is negative or ground. Make sure to attach the inline fuse holder to the red lead as close to the power source as possible. 17

For example, if you have to extend the power cable to the battery or power buss, attach one end of the fuse holder directly to the battery or power buss. This will protect both the unit and the power cable in the event of a short. It uses a 3-amp fuse. CAUTION: Do not use this product without a 3-amp fuse wired into the power cable! Failure to use a 3-amp fuse will void your warranty. This unit has reverse polarity protection. No damage will occur if the power wires are reversed. However, the unit will not work until the wires are attached correctly. MOUNTING THE SONAR UNIT: In-Dash or Bracket You can install the sonar unit on the top of a dash with the supplied bracket. It can also be installed in the dash with an optional dashmounting kit (FM-5 mount kit for Cuda 168EX, FM-6 mount kit for all others covered in this manual). In-Dash Installation

For the Cuda 168EX

The following figure shows dimensions for in-dash mounting a Cuda 168EX. The in-dash adapter kit includes a template for cutting the mounting hole and complete installation directions on instruction sheet 988-0147-43. NOTE: The Cuda 168EX needs only one cable, but some of the other products covered by the FM-5 instruction sheet use more. When installing your unit, use the instructions for the transducer cable and ignore references to any others.

146.5 [5.76]

R 7.9 [0.31]

In-Dash Template

113.5 [4.46] Millimeters [Inches]

ALWAYS VERIFY DIMENSIONS

In-dash mounting template for Cuda 168EX, showing dimensions. NOTE: The preceding figure is not printed to scale. A scaled template is available for free download from our web site, www.eaglesonar.com. For the Cuda 128 and Cuda 168
The Cuda 128 and Cuda 168 both use the same case and can be mounted in-dash using the removable scaled template inside the back cover of this manual (page 55). The FM-6 mount kit includes the necessary materials, but the instructions only appear here in this manual. Please read all the instructions before proceeding. NOTE: Recommended tools for this job include: jig saw, drill, drill bit (for starting hole). 1. Select the desired mounting location. Make sure there is enough room behind the dash to attach the unit's cable. The case is approximately 1-3/4" (45 mm) behind the mounting surface. You also need to allow an additional 1" (25 mm) for the power/transducer cable and connector. 2. Cut or tear out the template in the back of this manual (page 55) and tape it to the dash. Begin the cutout by drilling a starter hole near the center of the template. Use a drill bit big enough for the jigsaw blade. 19

76.9 Millimeter 70.3 [3.03] [Inch] [2.77] Front view (left) and side view (right) showing dimensions of the other Cuda family sonar units when mounted on quick release bracket.
If you wish, you can fill in the hole around the cable with a good marine caulking compound. (Some marine dealers stock cable hole covers to conceal the opening.) No matter what type of installation you prefer, be sure to leave enough slack in the cable to allow tilting or swiveling the unit.
If you choose to fill in the cable hole, be sure to position the cable against the rear edge of the hole as you apply the fill material.
Before positioning the gimbal bracket, be sure to hold the cable against the rear edge of the hole. Then, slide the bracket over the hole and butt the rear of the bracket base firmly against the cable, thus pinning it in place against the side of the hole. Finally, fasten the bracket to the dash.
Front Install the gimbal bracket. Orient the bracket so the arms slope toward the front of your unit.
Attach the unit to the gimbal bracket using the supplied gimbal knobs and washers. Slide the rubber washers onto the gimbal knobs then loosely screw the knobs into their sockets. Slide the unit into the bracket with the rubber washers to the outside of the bracket arms. Tilt the unit to the desired viewing angle and tighten the knobs finger tight.
For the Cuda 128 and Cuda 168
These units use a quick release mounting bracket. When you run the cable through the hole, make sure you allow enough slack for tilting the unit and attaching the connector. (The snug fit of the push-on waterproof connector requires some force to attach.) Align the bracket over the cable hole with the cable slots facing away from you and fit the cable through one of the slots. Fasten the bracket to the dash using the three screw holes.

Ratchet

Rear (away from viewer) Screw hole

Power/transducer cable

Cable slot
Cuda 128 and 168 quick release mounting bracket. Slots in the base allow routing the cable from beneath the mount.

Attach the unit to the bracket by first connecting the power/transducer cable. Then, hold the sonar unit vertically and slide it onto the bracket from above. (The back of the unit should be touching the front of the bracket as you lower it into position.) As you push down, the unit will lock into place with a distinct click. To adjust the viewing angle, pinch the ratchets with one hand, then tilt the unit with your other hand. Release the ratchets and the unit locks into the new position. To dismount the unit for storage, press the ratchets and lift the unit off the bracket.

Bracket front

Mount the sonar: slide the unit onto the bracket from above.
Depress ratchets to release
Adjust viewing angle: use one hand to press and release the springloaded ratchets while you move the unit with the other hand.
Portable Sonar Installation Like many Eagle products, the Cuda sonar family is capable of portable 25
operation. The Cuda 168EX uses the optional PPP-13 portable power pack. The Cuda 128 and Cuda 168 use the optional PPP-12 portable power pack. In fact, the Cuda 128 Portable package includes the PPP12 and the transducer necessary for portable use. The power pack and portable or floating transducers expand the uses for your sonar. You can use your Cuda sonar unit on your boat or take it to the dock, on a float tube, on an ice fishing trip or use it as a second sonar in a friend's boat. The PPP-12 or PPP-13 package includes the power pack, battery adapter and a portable transducer. Batteries are not included. Each power pack has a storage compartment for the portable transducer. The PPP-12 can be used with eight AA alkaline batteries. The PPP-13 can be used with eight D alkaline batteries or an optional sealed, rechargeable battery. To use a portable power pack, you simply install the batteries and then attach the sonar unit to the power pack's bracket. Plug in the power/transducer cable and you're ready to fish. (The PPP-12 has a quick-release mounting bracket built into the case. The PPP-13 requires you to attach the gimbal bracket to the case and then attach the sonar unit to the bracket with the supplied washers and knobs.) Installing the Batteries Release the latch on the front of the battery case. Open the compartment and install either an optional rechargeable battery, eight D batteries or eight AA batteries into the adapter. For the longest life, we recommend you use alkaline batteries. NOTE: When the unit is not in use, we recommend you unplug the power connector to reduce the possibility of corrosion or battery drain. When you store the unit, always remove the batteries because dead batteries can leak and corrode the contacts. 26

After installing the batteries, close the case and plug the sonar unit's power cable into the socket on the battery case.
"D" cell battery
Install batteries in power case battery adapter. PPP-13 shown.
Turn the sonar unit on. If it doesn't work, make sure the battery terminals are making good contact against the battery contacts. Also check the wiring connections on the battery adapter. The red wire on the power cable should be attached to the red wire on the battery adapter and the power cable's black wire should be connected to the black wire on the battery adapter. If it still doesn't work, check the battery voltage. Most of the complaints we receive about portable units result from stale batteries. Make sure the ones you buy are fresh. In cold weather the efficiency of dry cell batteries drops with the temperature. We find it a good idea to have the sonar unit good and warm along with the batteries before we leave home.
If the batteries do lose a charge, you can sometimes restore them by placing them in a warm room or car interior. A better way is to replace them with batteries that have been kept warm. WARNING: Never heat the batteries over an open flame or direct hot air onto them. A fire or explosion could result. Portable Transducer Assembly Recommended tools for installation include a slotted screw driver and two adjustable wrenches. Assemble the transducer and bracket as shown in the following figure. Attach the transducer to the bracket with the supplied hardware. Make sure there is one washer on each side of the transducer, inside the bracket. Slide the other washer over the end of the bolt and thread the nut onto it. Screw the suction cup onto the bracket using the supplied screw and flat washer. Tie the nylon cord through the hole in the top of the bracket. When using this transducer, tie the other end of the nylon cord to the boat. This will help prevent the loss of the transducer if it comes off the boat.
Tie nylon cord here Suction cup Nut Washer Transducer Portable transducer assembly: rear view (left) and side view (right.) Screw

Bolt Washer

Clean the chosen area of the hull before attaching the suction cup. Locate the transducer on the hull as shown in the following figure. Don't allow the bracket to extend below the hull, because water pressure against it can cause the suction cup to come off at speed. Moisten the cup, then press it onto the hull as firmly as possible. Tie the nylon cord to the boat and route the transducer cable to the sonar unit. Your portable sonar is now ready for use.

Digital depth Water Temp Bait fish Bottom signal Depth range at bottom of depth scale Surface clutter Structure or cover Fish arches Grayline
Full Chart page, showing digital depth (above) and temp (below). The Fish I.D. feature is turned off.
If the transducer with a built-in temperature sensor is connected, a digital display for water temperature will also be shown. This 34
temperature display can be turned on and off. See the later entry on Temperature Size for off and on instructions DEPTH RANGE ZOOM (automatic and manual) When turned on, the unit automatically adjusts the range according to water conditions. When in auto mode, it always keeps the bottom displayed in the portion of the screen. You can over-ride the automatic range control and manually select a depth range. depth range lower depth
To do this, press MENU until the RANGE ZOOM menu appears. Press the DOWN ARROW to select MANUAL, then press MENU UP to display the RANGE SIZE menu. Use the arrow keys to select a desired depth range. When you're finished, press PWR to clear the menu from the display. This unit has the following depth ranges: 10, 20, 40, 80, 160, 320 and 640 feet.
Range Size menu with manual depth range set to 40 feet. This in effect "zooms" or enlarges the display to show the water column from 0 to 40 feet deep. In this figure, the boat is in 57.5 feet of water, but only the top 40 feet of the water column is shown on the screen.
ZOOM The zoom feature enlarges all images on the screen by doubling the size of the echoes (a 2X zoom). For example, if the current auto depth range is 0 to 60 feet, Zoom will show an enlarged view of the water column from 30 feet to 60 feet, always keeping the bottom in view. To zoom the display, press the MENU key until the ZOOM menu appears. Press the UP ARROW key to select ON, then press PWR to clear the menu. You can tell when the display is in Zoom mode because the top depth scale on the left of the screen will no longer show zero. For example, if the current range is 0 to 80 feet with zoom off, switching to zoom would enlarge the water column from 40 feet to 80 feet. The number 40 (instead of zero) would appear at the top of the depth range scale. To turn the zoom feature off, press the MENU key until the ZOOM menu appears. Press the DOWN ARROW key to select OFF, then press PWR to clear the menu. The top of the depth range scale returns to zero. NOTE: Using the Zoom command while in auto depth Range Zoom mode will always enlarge the echoes near the bottom, because auto Range always keeps the bottom displayed in the lower portion of the screen. When you Zoom while the unit is in manual depth Range Zoom mode, you can select one of 13 pre-set Zoom Sizes. This lets you enlarge some other particular segment of the water column. To do this, first make sure the depth Range Zoom is in manual mode. (See previous instructions for Depth Range Zoom.) Next, press the MENU key until the ZOOM menu appears. Press the UP ARROW key to select ON, then press MENU UP to display the ZOOM SIZE menu. 36

Use the arrow keys to select a desired zoom size. When you're finished, press PWR to clear the menu from the display.

Enlarged fish arches

Zoom Size menu with the 5-15 foot zoom selected. The boat is in 28 feet of water, but the screen has zoomed in on the water column from 5 to 15 feet below the surface.
You can select from these zoom size ranges: 0-10, 5-15, 10-20, 1530, 20-40, 30-60, 40-80, 60-120, 80-160, 120-140, 160-320, 240-480 and 320-640. SENSITIVITY Sensitivity controls the unit's ability to pick up echoes. If you want to see more detail, try increasing the sensitivity, a little at a time. There are situations when too much clutter appears on the screen. Decreasing the sensitivity can reduce the clutter and show the strongest fish echoes, if fish are present. As you change the sensitivity setting, you can see the difference on the chart as it scrolls. You can change the sensitivity level whether you are in Auto Sensitivity mode or Manual Sensitivity mode. The adjustment method works the same in both modes, but it gives you slightly different results. Adjusting sensitivity in Auto Sensitivity Mode is similar to manually 37
adjusting a car's speed with the accelerator pedal while cruise control is on. You can tell the car to run faster, but when you let off the gas the cruise control automatically keeps you from running slower than the minimum speed setting. In your unit, auto mode will let you increase sensitivity to 100 percent, but the unit will limit your minimum setting. This prevents you from turning sensitivity down too low to allow automatic bottom tracking. When you change the setting with auto turned on, the unit will continue to track the bottom and make minor adjustments to the sensitivity level, with a bias toward the setting you selected. Adjusting sensitivity in Manual Sensitivity Mode is similar to driving a car without cruise control you have complete manual control of the car's speed. In your unit, manual mode allows you to set sensitivity at 100 percent (maximum) or zero percent (minimum.) Depending on water and bottom conditions, the bottom signal may completely disappear from the screen when you reduce sensitivity to about 45 percent or less! Try adjusting sensitivity in both auto and manual modes to see how they work.

Bait school

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fish arches

Fig. 3

Fig. 4
These figures show results of different sensitivity levels on the same location. Fig. 1: Sensitivity at 98 percent, determined by Auto Sensitivity. Typical of full auto mode. Fig. 2: Sensitivity set at 71 percent. Fig. 3: Sensitivity set at 47 percent. Fig. 4: Sensitivity set at 100 percent.

To adjust sensitivity: Press MENU until the SENSITIVITY ADJUSTMENT menu appears. Press UP ARROW to increase the sensitivity, DOWN ARROW to decrease it. When it's set at the desired level, press PWR to clear the menu. 39
The sensitivity percentage in use shows in this menu. As you change the setting, echoes scrolling onto the screen will show the effects of the change. If you reach the maximum or minimum sensitivity level, a tone sounds alerting you to the limits. NOTE: If you want to change the sensitivity in Manual Mode, first turn off Auto Sensitivity: press MENU until the SENSITIVITY AUTOMATIC/MANUAL menu appears. Press DOWN ARROW to select MANUAL, then press PWR to clear the menu. To adjust the sensitivity, follow the same steps used for adjusting sensitivity in auto mode above. GRAYLINE Grayline lets you distinguish between strong and weak echoes. It "paints" gray on targets that are stronger than a preset value. This allows you to tell the difference between a hard and soft bottom. For example, a soft, muddy or weedy bottom returns a weaker signal which is shown with a narrow or no gray line. A hard bottom returns a strong signal which causes a wide gray line. If you have two signals of equal size, one with gray and the other without, then the target with gray is the stronger signal. This helps distinguish weeds from trees on the bottom, or fish from structure. Grayline is adjustable. The factory default for this unit is 72 percent. Since Grayline shows the difference between strong and weak signals, adjusting the sensitivity may also require a different Grayline level. The level chosen by the sonar unit at power on is usually adequate for most conditions. Experiment with your unit to find the Grayline setting that's best for you. To change the Grayline level, press MENU until the GRAYLINE menu appears. 40

Thin or no Grayline

Wider Grayline
At left, little Grayline indicates a soft bottom, probably sand or mud. At right, the wider Grayline indicates a harder, rocky bottom.
Press UP ARROW to increase the level or press DOWN ARROW to decrease it. The percentage of Grayline in use shows in this menu. Echoes scrolling onto the screen will also show the effects of the Grayline change. If you reach the maximum or minimum level, a tone sounds alerting you to the limits. Press PWR to clear the menu. FISH I.D. The Fish I.D. feature identifies targets that meet certain conditions as fish. The microcomputer analyses all echoes and eliminates surface clutter, thermoclines and other signals that are undesirable. In most instances, remaining targets are fish. The Fish I.D. feature displays symbols on the screen in place of the actual fish echoes. There are three symbol sizes: small, medium and large. These show the relative size between targets. In other words, it displays a small fish symbol when it thinks a target is a small fish, a medium fish symbol on a larger target and so forth.

ALARMS

The sonar unit has three different types of alarms: fish, shallow and deep. Fish Alarm The Fish Alarm sounds a tone when a fish symbol appears on the screen. The default setting is on, but the Fish I.D. feature must be turned on for fish alarms to work. To turn Fish I.D. on, press MENU until the FISH ID menu appears. Press UP ARROW to select ON, then press PWR. Then, press MENU until the FISH ALARM menu appears. Press UP ARROW to select ON, then press PWR. To turn off the fish alarm without turning off fish symbols, press MENU DOWN until FISH ALARM appears. Press DOWN ARROW to select OFF, then 45
press PWR to clear the menu. Repeat the above steps to turn the alarm back on, but press UP ARROW to select ON before clearing the menu. Depth Alarms The depth alarms are triggered only by the bottom signal. No other echoes will activate these alarms. The depth alarms consist of a shallow and a deep alarm. The shallow alarm sounds an alarm tone when the bottom goes shallower than the alarm's setting. The deep alarm sounds a tone when the bottom goes deeper than its setting. Both alarms adjust the same way, although through different menus. Shallow Alarm To set the shallow alarm depth, press MENU DOWN repeatedly until SHALLOW ALARM appears. Press UP ARROW to increase the shallow alarm's depth setting or press DOWN ARROW to decrease it. The number in the shallow alarms menu box shows the current shallow alarm setting. When the number reaches the desired setting, press PWR to clear the menu. When the bottom depth goes shallower than the alarms setting, an alarm tone sounds and a message box appears on the screen. Press PWR to silence the alarm. This turns the alarm sound off until the shallow alarm is triggered again. To turn the alarm off, press MENU DOWN repeatedly until SHALLOW ALARM appears. Press DOWN ARROW until the words OFF FEET appear, then press PWR to clear the menu. Deep Alarm To set the deep alarm depth, press MENU DOWN repeatedly until DEEP ALARM appears. Press UP ARROW to increase the deep alarm's depth setting or press DOWN ARROW to decrease it. The number in the deep alarms menu box shows the current deep alarm 46
setting. When the number reaches the desired setting, press PWR to clear the menu. When the bottom depth goes deeper than the alarms setting, an alarm tone sounds and a message box appears on the screen. Press PWR to silence the alarm. This turns the alarm sound off until the deep alarm is triggered again. To turn the alarm off, press MENU DOWN repeatedly until DEEP ALARM appears. Press DOWN ARROW until the words OFF FEET appear, then press PWR to clear the menu. DISPLAY ADJUSTMENTS BACKLIGHTS The display is backlit for night use. To turn the backlight on or off, press MENU repeatedly until the BACK LIGHT menu appears. Press UP ARROW to turn the light on or the DOWN ARROW to turn it off. DISPLAY CONTRAST The units display contrast is adjustable to suit different lighting conditions. This will help you see the screen from different angles or at various times of the day. The default setting is min (minimum) percent. To adjust the contrast, press MENU DOWN until the DISPLAY CONTRAST menu appears. To decrease screen contrast, press the DOWN ARROW key. Press the UP ARROW key to increase screen contrast. The bar graph in the Contrast menu box shows a graph of the contrast. The screen will also show the effects of the change. If you reach the maximum or minimum level, a tone sounds alerting you to the limits. Press the PWR key to clear the menu.

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Eagle Pub. 988-0143-631 Printed in USA 111902
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