Single-frequency trolling motor installations
Tools: two adjustable wrenches, flat-head screwdriver. Supplies: plastic cable ties.
Shoot-through hull installations
Tools: these will vary depending on your hull's composition. Consult your boat dealer or manufacturer. Supplies: 100 grit sandpaper, specially for5
mulated epoxy adhesive available from LEI (see ordering information on the inside back cover). A sandwich hull also requires polyester resin. Selecting a Transducer Location 1. The location must be in the water at all times, at all operating speeds. 2. The transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of water at all times. If the transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of water, interference caused by bubbles and turbulence will show on the sonar's display in the form of random lines or dots whenever the boat is moving. NOTE: Some aluminum boats with strakes or ribs on the outside of the hull create large amounts of turbulence at high speed. These boats typically have large outboard motors capable of propelling the boat at speeds faster than 35 mph. Typically, a good transom location on aluminum boats is between the ribs closest to the engine. 3. The transducer should be installed with its face pointing straight down, if possible. For shoot-thru applications: Many popular fishing boat hulls have a flat keel pad that offers a good mounting surface. On vee hulls, try to place the transducer where the deadrise is 10 or less.

Deadrise less than 10

Strakes Pad Vee pad hull (left); Vee hull (right). A pod style transducer is shown here, but the principle is the same for Skimmers inside a hull.
4. If the transducer is mounted on the transom, make sure it doesn't interfere with the trailer or hauling of the boat. Also, don't mount it closer than approximately one foot from the engine's lower unit. This will prevent cavitation (bubble) interference with propeller operation. 6
5. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps and aerators can be displayed on the sonar's screen. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires.
CAUTION: Clamp the transducer cable to transom near the transducer. This will help prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed. Good location
Poor location Good location Good location Poor angle Good and poor transducer locations.

How low should you go? For most situations, you should install your Skimmer transducer so that its centerline is level with the bottom of the boat hull. This will usually give you the best combination of smooth water flow and protection from bangs and bumps.

Transducer centerline

Transom
Hull bottom Align transducer centerline with hull bottom.
However, there are times when you may need to adjust the transducer slightly higher or lower. (The slots in the mounting brackets allow you to loosen the screws and slide the transducer up or down.) If you frequently lose bottom signal lock while running at high speed, the transducer may be coming out of the water as you cross waves or wakes. Move the transducer a little lower to help prevent this. If you cruise or fish around lots of structure and cover, your transducer may be frequently kicking up from object strikes. If you wish, you may move the transducer a little higher for more protection. There are two extremes you should avoid. Never let the edge of the mounting bracket extend below the bottom of the hull. Never let the bottom the face of the transducer rise above the bottom of the hull. Shoot-Thru-Hull vs. Transom Mounting In a shoot-thru-hull installation, the transducer is bonded to the inside of the hull with epoxy. The sonar "ping" signal actually passes through the hull and into the water. This differs from a bolt-thru-hull installation (often called "thru-hull"). In that case, a hole is cut in the hull and a specially designed transducer is mounted through the hull with a threaded shaft and nut. This puts the transducer in direct contact with the water. Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability. 8
There is no possibility of damage from floating objects. It can't be knocked off when docking or loading on the trailer. However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks. First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same hull. This is caused by differences in hull lay-up and construction. Second, the transducer angle cannot be adjusted for the best fish arches. This can be a problem on hulls that sit with the bow high when at rest or at slow trolling speeds. Third, a transducer CAN NOT shoot through wood and metal hulls. Those hulls require either a transom mount or a thru-hull installation. Fourth, a Skimmer transducer with a built-in temp sensor will show only the temperature of the bilge, not the water surface temp. Follow the procedure listed in the shoot-thru-hull installation section at the end of this lesson to determine if you can satisfactorily shoot through the hull. Transom Transducer Assembly and Mounting The best way to install these transducers is to loosely assemble all of the parts first, place the transducer's bracket against the transom and see if you can move the transducer so that it's parallel with the ground. 1. Assembling the bracket. Press the two small plastic ratchets into the sides of the metal bracket as shown in the following illustration. Notice there are letters molded into each ratchet. Place each ratchet into the bracket with the letter "A" aligned with the dot stamped into the metal bracket. This position sets the transducer's coarse angle adjustment for a 14 transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms have a 14 angle.

Align plastic ratchets in bracket.
2. Aligning the transducer on the transom. Slide the transducer between the two ratchets. Temporarily slide the bolt though the transducer assembly and hold it against the transom. Looking at the transducer from the side, check to see if it will adjust so that its face is parallel to the ground. If it does, then the "A" position is correct for your hull. If the transducer's face isn't parallel with the ground, remove the transducer and ratchets from the bracket. Place the ratchets into the holes in the bracket with the letter "B" aligned with the dot stamped in the bracket. Reassemble the transducer and bracket and place them against the transom. Again, check to see if you can move the transducer so it's parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3. If it doesn't, repeat step 2, but use a different alignment letter until you can place the transducer on the transom correctly.

Ratchets

Insert bolt and check transducer position on transom.
3. Assembling the transducer. Once you determine the correct position for the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the following figure. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.

Nut Metal washer

Rubber washers Bolt

Metal washer

Assemble transducer and bracket.
4. Drilling mounting holes. Hold the transducer and bracket assembly against the transom. The transducer should be roughly parallel to 11
the ground. The transducer's centerline should be in line with the bottom of the hull. Don't let the bracket extend below the hull! Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You will drill one hole in the center of each slot. Drill the holes. Use the #29 bit (for the #10 screws).
Position transducer mount on transom and mark mounting holes. Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
5. Attaching transducer to transom. Remove the transducer from the bracket and re-assemble it with the cable passing through the bracket over the bolt as shown in the following figures.
Route cable over bolt and through bracket. Side view shown (left) and seen from above (right).

Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the transducer up or down until it's aligned properly with the bottom of the hull as shown in the preceding and following figures. Tighten the bracket's mounting screws, sealing them with the caulking compound. Adjust the transducer so that it's parallel to the ground and tighten the nut until it touches the outer washer, then add 1/4 turn. Don't over tighten the lock nut! If you do, the transducer won't "kick-up" if it strikes an object in the water.

Bottom of hull

Deep-"vee" hull Flat-bottom hull Align transducer centerline with hull bottom and attach to transom.
6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit. Make sure you leave some slack in the cable at the transducer. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring. Electrical noise from the engine's wiring, bilge pumps, VHF radio wires, cables and aerators can be picked up by the sonar. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires. WARNING: Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the transducer. This can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed. If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through, the required hole size is 5/8". (If you intend to route an additional speed or temp sensor cable through the same hole, you will need a 1" (25.4 mm) drill bit instead.) Caution: If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the mounting screws. 14
7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the transducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water, hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull! Trolling Motor Bracket Installation 1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer. (Note: The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.)
Internal tooth washer Bolt Nut TMB-S bracket
Flat washer Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.
2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the water. Tighten the strap securely.

Spread epoxy here

Sand this surface
Orient the Skimmer with the nose facing the bow of the boat. To bow Epoxy transducer to hull.
WARNING: Use only the epoxy available from LEI. It has been formulated to work with these installation procedures. Other epoxy types may be too thin or may not cure to the right consistency for optimum transducer performance. 2. The epoxy consists of the epoxy itself and a hardener. Remove the two compounds from the package and place them on the paper plate. Thoroughly stir the two compounds together until the mixture has a uniform color and consistency. Do not mix too fast or bubbles will form in the epoxy. After mixing, you have 20 minutes to complete the installation before the epoxy becomes unworkable. Spread a thin layer of epoxy (about 1/16" or 1.5 mm thick) on the face of the transducer as shown in the previous figure. 22
Make sure there are no air pockets in the epoxy layer! Then, apply the remaining epoxy to the sanded area on the hull. 3. Press the transducer into the epoxy, twisting and turning it to force any air bubbles out from under the transducer face. Stop pressing when you bottom out on the hull. When you're finished, the face of the transducer should be parallel with the hull, with a minimum amount of epoxy between the hull and transducer. 4. Apply a weight, such as a brick, to hold the transducer in place while the epoxy cures. Be careful not to bump the transducer while the epoxy is wet. Leave the weight in place for a minimum of three hours. Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours before moving the boat. 5. After the epoxy has cured, route the cable to the sonar unit and it's ready to use. Power Connections (permanent mount only) The unit works from a 12-volt battery system. You can attach the power cable to your boat's accessory or power buss (or directly to the battery). If you use an accessory buss but have problems with electrical interference, attach the power cable directly to the battery. If the cable is not long enough, splice #18 gauge wire onto it. CAUTION: When using the unit in a saltwater environment, we strongly recommend that you shut off the power supply to the power cable when the unit is not in use. When the unit is turned off but still connected to a power supply, electrolysis can occur in the power cable plug. This may result in corrosion of the plug body along with the electrical contacts in the cable and the unit's power socket. In saltwater environments we recommend you connect the power cable to the auxiliary power switch included in most boat designs. If that results in electrical interference, or if such a switch is not available, we recommend connecting direct to the battery and in23

stalling an inline switch. This will let you shut off power to the power cable when the unit is not in use. When you are not using the unit, you should always shut off power to the power cable, especially when the power cable is disconnected from the unit.
To unit Red wire with 3 amp fuse
Black wire 12 volt battery
Power connections for the Cuda 242 sonar unit (direct battery connection shown).
If possible, keep the power cable away from other boat wiring, especially the engine's wires. This will provide the best isolation from electrical noise. The power cable has two wires, red and black. Red is the positive lead, black is negative or ground. Make sure to attach the inline fuse holder to the red lead as close to the power source as possible. For example, if you have to extend the power cable to the battery or power buss, attach one end of the fuse holder directly to the battery or power buss. This will protect both the unit and the power cable in the event of a short. It uses a 3-amp fuse. Caution: Do not use this product without a 3-amp fuse wired into the power cable! Failure to use a 3-amp fuse will void your warranty.
This unit has reverse polarity protection. No damage will occur if the power wires are reversed. However, the unit will not work until the wires are attached correctly. Mounting the Sonar Unit: In-Dash, Bracket or Portable You can install the sonar unit on the top of a dash with the supplied bracket. This unit can be installed in a dash with the optional FM-6 indash adapter kit. The FM-6 kit includes an instruction sheet, part 9880147-631, which contains a template for cutting out the mounting hole. This document can be downloaded free from the www.eaglesonar.com web site. Bracket Installation Recommended tools for this job include: drill, 1" (25.4 mm) drill bit, screwdriver. Required supplies for this job include: high quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline caulking compound, three #10 stainless steel screws. Screw length and type should be suitable for the material on which you intend to mount the bracket. Mount the unit in any convenient location, provided there is clearance when its tilted for the best viewing angle. You should also make sure there is enough room behind the unit to attach the power/transducer cable. (See the following drawings, which show the dimensions of a gimbal-mounted Cuda 242 sonar unit.) Holes in the brackets base allow wood screw or through-bolt mounting. You may need to place a piece of plywood on the back side of thin panels to reinforce the panel and secure the mounting hardware. Drill a 1" (25.4 mm) hole in the dash for the power/transducer and accessory cables. The best location for this hole is immediately under the gimbal bracket location. This way, the bracket can be installed so that it covers the hole, holds the cables in position and results in a neat installation. Some customers, however, prefer to mount the bracket to the side of the cable hole it's a matter of personal preference.

Tie nylon cord here Suction cup Screw

Bolt Washer

Nut Washer Transducer
Portable transducer assembly: rear view (left) and side view (right).
Clean the chosen area of the hull before attaching the suction cup. Locate the transducer on the hull as shown in the following figure. Don't let the bracket extend below the hull, because water pressure against it can cause the suction cup to come off at speed. NOTE: For optimum operation, the portable transducer should be adjusted so that it is parallel to the ground. For more information on this, see the segment in the unit's operation manual on Transducer Orientation and Fish Arches. Moisten the suction cup, then press it onto the hull as firmly as possible. Tie the nylon cord to the boat and set the power pack and sonar unit in a location for easy viewing. Your portable sonar is now ready for use.
Portable transducer installed on boat transom.
Portable Transducer Storage There is room inside the power pack for the portable transducer. When you're finished fishing, tilt the sonar down to the storage position. Open the case and lay it flat. Unplug the power connector from the battery compartment socket. Wrap the transducer cable around the suction cup, then stow the transducer on top of the battery compartment cover. Close the case and your equipment is ready for transport.
Stow transducer on top of battery cover.

Operation

Keyboard Basics
The unit sounds a tone when you press any key. This tells you the unit has accepted a command. Numbers in the figure correspond to key explanations below:

Eagle Cuda 242 keyboard.

1. PWR/CLEAR In this manual, the Power/Clear key is referred to as PWR. Press this key to turn the unit on and off. It also clears menus and menu selections from the screen. To clear a menu from the screen, press PWR. NOTE: Hold the PWR key down for five seconds to turn off the unit. 35
2. MENU UP & MENU DOWN These keys appear in the manual text as MENU UP or MENU DOWN. Most of the time, you can press either of the menu keys, so in those cases, the text uses the word MENU. Usually, when the instructions say MENU, you can press the MENU UP key for consistency. The MENU UP key cycles forward through the menus. The MENU DOWN key moves backward through the menus. To check out the menus, repeatedly press a MENU key to scroll through them. 3. UP & DOWN ARROWS ( ) These Up and Down arrow keys are referred to as (DOWN) or (UP) in this manual. You will use these keys to adjust most features and functions on the Cuda 242.

Full Chart page, showing digital depth (above) and temp (below). The Fish I.D. feature is turned off.
If the transducer with a built-in temperature sensor is connected, a digital display for water temperature also will be shown. This temperature display can be turned on and off.

Depth Range

When turned on, the unit automatically adjusts the depth range according to water conditions. When in auto range mode, it always keeps the bottom displayed in the lower portion of the screen. You can override the automatic depth range control and manually select a depth range. To do this, press MENU until the DEPTH RANGE menu appears. Press to select MANUAL, then press MENU UP to display the RANGE SIZE menu. Use the arrow keys to select a desired depth range. When you're finished, press PWR to clear the menu from the display. This unit has the following depth ranges: 10, 20, 40, 80, 150, 300, 600, 1000 and 2000 feet.
Depth Range menu with Manual setting selected (left). Range Size menu with 0-80 ft highlighted (right).
The zoom feature enlarges all images on the screen by doubling the size of the echoes (a 2X zoom). For example, if the current auto depth range is 0 to 60 feet, Zoom will show an enlarged view of the water column from 30 feet to 60 feet, always keeping the bottom in view. To zoom the display, press the MENU key until the ZOOM menu appears. Press to select ON, then press PWR to clear the menu.
Zoom feature turned off (left). Zoom turned on (right).
You can tell when the display is in Zoom mode because the top depth scale on the left of the screen will no longer show zero. For example, if the current range is 0 to 80 feet with zoom off, switching to zoom would enlarge the water column from 40 feet to 80 feet. The number 40 (instead of zero) would appear at the top of the depth range scale. To turn off the zoom feature off, press the MENU key until the ZOOM menu appears. Press to select OFF, then press PWR to clear the menu. The top of the depth range scale returns to zero.

NOTE: Using the Zoom command while in auto Zoom mode will always enlarge the echoes near the bottom, because auto Range always keeps the bottom displayed in the lower portion of the screen. When you choose to use the zoom feature while the unit is in manual Depth Range mode, you can select one of 17 pre-set Zoom Ranges. This lets you enlarge a desired segment of the water column. To do this, make sure Depth Range is set to manual mode. Next, press MENU until the ZOOM menu appears. Press to select ON, then press MENU UP to display the ZOOM RANGE menu. Use the arrow keys to select a desired zoom size. When you are finished, press PWR to clear the menu from the display.

Enlarged fish arches

Zoom Range menu with the 40-80 foot zoom selected.
You can select from these zoom size ranges: 0-10, 5-15, 10-20, 1530, 20-40, 30-60, 40-80, 50-100, 75-150, 100-200, 150-300, 200-400, 300-600, 400-800, 500-1000, 750-1500 and 1000-2000.

Sensitivity

Sensitivity adjusts the way echoes will be displayed on the screen. If you want to see more detail, try increasing the sensitivity, a little at a time. There are situations when too much clutter appears on the screen. Decreasing the sensitivity can reduce the clutter and show the strongest fish echoes, if fish are present. As you change the sensitivity setting, you can see the difference on the chart as it scrolls.
Sensitivity set to manual mode (left). Sensitivity control bar (right).
You can change the sensitivity level whether you are in Auto Sensitivity mode or Manual Sensitivity mode. The adjustment method works the same in both modes, but it gives you slightly different results. To adjust sensitivity in Auto Mode: Press MENU until the SENSITIVITY control bar appears. Press to increase the sensitivity, to decrease it. When it is set at the desired level, press PWR to clear the menu. If you reach the maximum or minimum sensitivity level, a tone sounds alerting you to the limits. To adjust sensitivity in Manual Mode: If you want to change the sensitivity in Manual Mode, turn off Auto Sensitivity. Press MENU until the SENSITIVITY menu appears. to select 42

MANUAL, then press PWR to clear the menu. To adjust the sensitivity, follow the same steps used for adjusting sensitivity in auto mode above. Bait school

Fig. 1

Fig. 2
Fish arches Fig. 3 Fig. 4
These figures show results of different sensitivity levels on the same location. Fig. 1: Sensitivity at 98 percent, determined by Auto Sensitivity. Typical of full auto mode. Fig. 2: Sensitivity set at 71 percent. Fig. 3: Sensitivity set at 47 percent. Fig. 4: Sensitivity set at 100 percent.

Grayline

Grayline lets you distinguish between strong and weak echoes. It allows you to tell the difference between a hard and soft bottom. For ex43
ample, a soft, muddy or weedy bottom returns a weaker signal which is shown with a narrow line or no gray line at all. A hard bottom returns a strong signal which will be displayed as a wide gray line.

Grayline control bar.

If you have two signals of equal size, one with gray and the other without, then the target with gray is the stronger signal. This helps distinguish weeds from trees on the bottom, or fish from structure. Grayline is adjustable. Since Grayline shows the difference between strong and weak signals, adjusting the sensitivity may also require a different Grayline level. The level chosen by the sonar unit at power on is usually adequate for most conditions. Experiment with your unit to find the Grayline setting that's best for you. To change the Grayline level, press MENU until the GRAYLINE control bar appears.

Thin or no Grayline

Wider Grayline
A small amount of Grayline indicates a soft bottom (left), probably sand or mud. More Grayline indicates a harder, rocky bottom (right).
Press to increase the level of Grayline or press to decrease it. Echoes scrolling onto the screen will show the effects of the Grayline change. If you reach the maximum or minimum level, a tone sounds alerting you to the limits. Press PWR to clear the menu.

Chart Speed

The rate that echoes scroll across the screen is called the chart scroll speed. The default for this unit is "max" (100 percent); we recommend that you leave the scroll speed set there for virtually all fishing conditions.

Chart Speed control bar.

You, however, might consider experimenting with chart speed when you are stationary or drifting very slowly. Sometimes, you may achieve better images as you decrease the chart speed to match the speed of your boat. If you are at anchor, ice fishing or fishing from a dock, experiment with a chart speed of 25 percent. If you are drifting slowly, try a chart speed of 50 percent. When you are stationary and a fish swims through the sonar signal cone, the image appears on the screen as a long line instead of a fish arch. Reducing the chart speed may result in a shorter line that more closely resembles a regular fish return. To adjust Chart Speed, press MENU until the CHART SPEED control bar appears. Press to increase the speed of the chart. Press to decrease it. Press PWR to clear the menu. To return to the original setting, repeat the above steps, but use the arrow keys to set the speed to 100% before clearing the menu.

Fish I.D.

The Fish I.D. feature displays as fish targets that meet certain conditions. The microcomputer analyses all echoes and eliminates surface clutter, thermoclines and other undesirable signals. The Fish I.D. feature displays symbols on the screen in place of the actual fish echoes. There are three symbol sizes: small, medium and large. These show the relative size between targets. In other words, it displays a small fish symbol when it thinks a target is a small fish, a medium fish symbol on a larger target and so forth.

Fish arches

Fish I.D. symbols
Fish I.D. is an easier way for a sonar novice to recognize a fish signal return when he sees it. But, locating fish by symbol only does have some limitations. Your sonar unit's microcomputer is sophisticated, but it can be fooled. It can not distinguish between fish and other suspended objects such as trotlines, turtles, submerged floats, air bubbles, etc. Individual tree limbs extending outward from a group of limbs are the hardest objects for the Fish I.D. feature to distinguish from fish. To see what's under your boat in maximum detail, we recommend you turn off Fish I.D. and begin learning to interpret fish arches. 47
Underwater scene in normal fish arch mode (left). Fish I.D. menu with the feature turned on (right).
You may see Fish I.D. symbols on the screen when actually, there are no fish. The reverse is also true Fish I.D. can actually miss fish that are present. Does that mean Fish I.D. is broken? No the feature is interpreting sonar returns in a specific way to help take some of the work out of reading the screen. Remember: Fish I.D. is one of the many tools we provide so you can analyze your sonar returns for maximum fish finding information. This and other features can help you "see" beneath the boat under varied water and fishing conditions. So, practice with the unit in both the Fish I.D. mode and without to become more familiar with the feature. This unit's default Fish I.D. setting is on. Fish I.D. is most handy when you're in another part of the boat or performing some task that prevents you from watching the sonar screen. Then, you can turn on Fish I.D. and the audible FISH ALARM. When that lunker swims under your boat, you'll hear it! Fish I.D. can also be useful when you want to screen out some of the sonar detail gathered by your unit. For example, it can help cut through the clutter of suspended bubbles caused by wave action or boat wakes. To turn Fish I.D. off, press MENU until the FISH ID menu appears. Press to select OFF, then press PWR. To turn it back on, repeat the above steps, but press to select ON.

Deep Alarm

To set the deep alarm depth, press MENU repeatedly until DEEP ALARM appears.
Deep Alarm dialog box (left). Deep Alarm menu (right).
Press the to SET VALUE. The Deep Alarm Value dialog box will appear. Use to enter the first number in the dialog box, then press DOWN MENU to move to the next digit. Repeat those steps until the desired depth has been entered in the dialog box. To move the cursor back to any of the previously entered numbers, press UP MENU. Otherwise, 51
press PWR to return to the Deep Alarm menu. Use to select ON, which will turn on the alarm, then press PWR to clear the menu. When the bottom depth becomes deeper than the alarms setting, an alarm will sound and a message will appear on the screen.

Battery Alarm

To set the shallow alarm depth, press MENU repeatedly until BATTERY ALARM appears.
Low Battery Alarm Value (left). Battery Alarm menu (right).
Press the to SET VALUE. The Low Battery Alarm Value dialog box will appear. Input a voltage value between 7 and 18 volts. Use the keys to enter the first number in the dialog box, then press DOWN MENU to move to the next digit. Repeat those steps until the desired value has been entered in the dialog box. To move the cursor back to any of the previously entered numbers, press UP MENU. Otherwise, press PWR to return to the Battery Alarm menu. Use to select ON, which will turn on the alarm, then press PWR to clear the menu. If the voltage value falls below the alarms setting, the alarm will sound and a message will appear on the screen.

Noise Reject and ASP

The ASP (Advanced Signal Processing) feature is a noise rejection system built into the sonar unit. It constantly evaluates the effects of boat speed, water conditions and electrical interference and automatically gives you the best display possible under most conditions. ASP is an effective tool in combating noise. In sonar terms, noise is any undesired signal. It is caused by electrical and mechanical sources such as bilge pumps, engine ignition systems, wiring, air bubbles passing over the face of the transducer and even vibration from the engine. In all cases, noise can produce unwanted marks on the display.

and transmit. Keep doing this until all electrical equipment has been turned on, their effect on the sonar display noted, then turned off. If you find noise interference from an electrical instrument, trolling motor, pump, or radio, try to isolate the problem. You can usually reroute the sonar unit's power cable and transducer cable away from the wiring that is causing the interference. VHF radio antenna cables radiate noise when transmitting, so be certain to keep the sonar's wires away from it. You may need to route the sonar unit's power cable directly to the battery to isolate it from other wiring on the boat. If no noise displays on the sonar unit from electrical equipment, then make certain everything except the sonar unit is turned off, then start the engine. Increase the RPM with the gearshift in neutral. If noise appears on the display, the problem could be one of three things; spark plugs, alternator, or tachometer wiring. Try using resistor spark plugs, alternator filters, or routing the sonar unit's power cable away from engine wiring. Again, routing the power cable directly to the battery helps eliminate noise problems. Make certain to use the in-line fuse supplied with the unit when wiring the power cable to the battery. When no noise appears on the sonar unit after all of the above tests, then the noise source is probably cavitation. Many novices or persons with limited experience make hasty sonar installations which function perfectly in shallow water, or when the boat is at rest. In nearly all cases, the cause of the malfunction will be the location and/or angle of the transducer. The face of the transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of water at all boat speeds. Read your transducer owner's manual for the best mounting position.
EAGLE ELECTRONICS FULL ONE-YEAR WARRANTY
"We," "our," or "us" refers to EAGLE ELECTRONICS, a division of LEI, the manufacturer of this product. "You" or "your" refers to the first person who purchases this product as a consumer item for personal, family, or household use. We warrant this product against defects or malfunctions in materials and workmanship, and against failure to conform to this product's written specifications, all for one (1) year from the date of original purchase by you. WE MAKE NO OTHER EXPRESS WARRANTY OR REPRESENTATION OF ANY KIND WHATSOEVER CONCERNING THIS PRODUCT. Your remedies under this warranty will be available so long as you can show in a reasonable manner that any defect or malfunction in materials or workmanship, or any non-conformity with the product's written specifications, occurred within one year from the date of your original purchase, which must be substantiated by a dated sales receipt or sales slip. Any such defect, malfunction, or non-conformity which occurs within one year from your original purchase date will either be repaired without charge or be replaced with a new product identical or reasonably equivalent to this product, at our option, within a reasonable time after our receipt of the product. If such defect, malfunction, or non-conformity remains after a reasonable number of attempts to repair by us, you may elect to obtain without charge a replacement of the product or a refund for the product. THIS REPAIR, OR REPLACEMENT OR REFUND (AS JUST DESCRIBED) IS THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY AVAILABLE TO YOU AGAINST US FOR ANY DEFECT, MALFUNCTION, OR NON-CONFORMITY CONCERNING THE PRODUCT OR FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE RESULTING FROM ANY OTHER CAUSE WHATSOEVER. WE WILL NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BE LIABLE TO ANYONE FOR ANY SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR OTHER INDIRECT DAMAGE OF ANY KIND. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. This warranty does NOT apply in the following circumstances: (1) when the product has been serviced or repaired by anyone other than us; (2) when the product has been connected, installed, combined, altered, adjusted, or handled in a manner other than according to the instructions furnished with the product; (3) when any serial number has been effaced, altered, or removed; or (4) when any defect, problem, loss, or damage has resulted from any accident, misuse, negligence, or carelessness, or from any failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance in accordance with the instructions of the owner's manual for the product. We reserve the right to make changes or improvements in our products from time to time without incurring the obligation to install such improvements or changes on equipment or items previously manufactured. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which may vary from state to state. REMINDER: You must retain the sales slip or sales receipt proving the date of your original purchase in case warranty service is ever required.

FF Install Hobie Revolution Eagle Cuda 242 Ferd Salomon
The project was to install a Cuda 242 FF on my Hobie Revo. I had used the 8 AA battery power supply before when I rigged an FF on my Prowler, it had worked well and was cheap and easy. Assuming the batteries are healthy, the eight rechargeables should work fine. The Cuda pulled 170 mAh with the backlight off, 230 mAh with the backlight on. The AAs are rated at 2300 mAh. Doing the simple math tells me that they will last between 10 and 13.5 hours. Eight (8) AAs, with each rated at 1.2V put out about 9.6V, which is enough to run most FFs. Depending on the unit, they will run on as little as 8 volts I know they say they are 12 volt units, but the voltage regulator in the FF burns off the excess voltage. I have run all day on an 8 AA battery pack. You can find AA batteries that advertise themselves as putting out 1.5 volts each, in which case you can get 12 volts from 8 AAs and maybe be more comfortable. If you are very fortunate, you can find a 10 battery holder and get plenty of voltsNow, if you plan to run a live bait well or buy a mongo FF with side scanning, color, GPS and enough power to see a whale carcass on the bottom 6,000 feet away, then the AA solution is not for you. Still with me? OK, lets get our parts assembled. Parts needed: o sheet of insulation foam Home Depot o 9V battery connector Radio Shack o AA battery holder Radio Shack o Rubber cork Home Depot o Waterproof cell phone bag Academy Sports o Marine Goop Academy Sports o RAM Mount ordered through Key Sailing
Step 1. I cut a piece of foam into the shape you see below, outlined the transducer and then cut out the outline. The marked lines on the foam block are so I can align it fore and aft accurately. In the Revo, I planned to mount the transducer behind the sail mast and in front of the drive unit.
Foam block with cutout to match shape of transducer, then glued in place with Goop
View looking aft - just aft of the sail mount and forward of the Mirage drive well
You can choose to mount it anywhere you want, but I wanted it out of the way of stuff I stored in the hatch and in front of any disturbed water coming off the drive. I sanded the area where the block was going to go and then glued it down with plenty of Marine Goop. Ideally, you want this to cure overnight before the next step. Step 2. This is probably the most critical step in the install. You want to glue the transducer into the well created in the foam block such that there are no air pockets between the transducer and the hull. Rember, the transducer faces forward, flat side facing aft. Check your instruction manual to make sure before proceeding. I warmed the tube of Goop in a coffee cup of warm water. This will make the Goop flow easier and greatly reduce the chance of air bubbles. Jam the tube into the well and fill it up with Goop. I think it is difficult to use too much Press the transducer down into the well and hold it until the Goop sets up about 5-10 minutes. Let it cure. What if you mess this up? No worries, it can be redone, just peel it off and try again.

Transducer glued inside the cutout with lots of Goop ensure there are no air bubbles in the Goop
9V Battery connector Radio Shack
Step 3. Powering it up. Now we need to connect the FF power wire to our power source. I used heat shrink butt splices (22-18 AWG) and a 9V battery connector, Connect the red wire to the red wire, crimp well. Same for black to black. I did connect the included fuse in the red line. Use a heat gun or lighter to heat shrink the connectors. I used a big glob of Goop to make sure the connections were waterproof and then zip tied the wires into a convenient bundle.
9V connector connected to FF power wire with heat shrink butt splices and Goop fuse included. Battery pack of 8 AA and battery holder from Radio Shack
Battery pack placed inside waterproof bag I did file a groove in the yellow plastic top to fit the wire
Step 4. Load the batteries into the holder, connect them to the battery connector and you should be good to go. I store them inside the yak inside a waterproof bag, but you can use a Pelcian box, a Tupperware or any waterproof container. I hang the battery bag inside the front hatch of the kayak so it does not lie on the bottom of the hull and stays out of the way.
Transducer cable coiled and stowed inside hull note cables running up through cork
Battery bag hung up off the bottom of the hull or you can hang it from a loop on the inside of the hull.
Important tip there will be a lot of transducer cable left over DO NOT CUT IT. Something about the cable length being tuned to the transducer or some other electronic explanation. I dont know, but cutting the cable it not good. I had an anchor trolley bolt on the side of the yak I replaced that bolt with a longer one about 2 long. I coiled the cable up, put a plastic strap around it and secured it with another nut on the extra length bolt. OK, I also put a small nylon spacer in there, but that was not required. If you cant picture it, here is how it goes: Hull washer nut - one end of strap - nylon spacer - other end of strap - nut.
Step 5. Connecting the power plug to the control head unit. I ran the power plug up through the hull just behind where I mounted the FF RAM mount. This is the small 1 ball mount with a mounting plate that matches the Cuda mount. I would recommend mounting the RAM ball prior to drilling the hole for the power plug. I then drilled a hole large enough to snugly fit the cork. I used a black rubber cork from Home Depot, and drilled two holes in the plug to match the two wires in the plug. Using a knife or razor blade, cut a slit in each side of the cork so that you can slide the wires into the holes you just drilled in the cork. I sealed the cork with plenty of Goop. Make sure you leave enough length of wire to reach the head unit throughout the range of movement of the mount. Voila, you are done
RAM mount on gunwale. FF power and transducer cable run through rubber cork and glued in place Good luck!

Another view of FF mount location