Capabilities and Specifications: FishEasy 240 Family
General Case size:..5.8" H x 4.3" W x 2.5" D (14.7 cm H x 10.8 cm W x 6.6 cm D) sealed, waterproof; suitable for saltwater use. 1
Display:..High-contrast Film SuperTwist LCD. Diagonal viewing area: 3.5" (8.9 cm). Resolution:..240 pixels (vert.) x 160 pixels (horiz.) resolution; 38,400 total pixels Backlighting:.Amber LED backlit screen and keypad for night use. Input power:.10 to 17 volts DC. Current drain:.170 ma lights off; 240 ma lights on. Back-up memory:.Built-in memory stores sonar settings when unit is turned off. Sonar Frequency:..200 kHz. Transducers:.A Skimmer transducer comes packed with your unit. Its 20 cone angle offers a wide fish detection area of up to 60 with high sensitivity settings. Operates at boat speeds up to 70 mph (61 kts). Transmitter:..1500 watts peak-to-peak power (typical); 188 watts RMS power (typical). Sonar sounding depth capability:.800 feet (244 meters). Actual capability depends on transducer configuration and installation, bottom composition and water conditions. All sonar units typically read deeper in fresh water than in salt water. Depth display:.Continuous digital readout. Audible alarms:.Deep/shallow/fish. Automatic ranging:.Yes, with instant screen updates. 2
Auto bottom track:.Yes. Zoom bottom track:.Yes. Split-screen zoom:.Yes. Surface water temp:..Yes, built into transducer. Optional external temperature sensor or combo speed/temp sensor available. Speed/distance log:.Yes, with optional speed sensor. This manual covers the FishEasy 240 and FishEasy 240 Portable. Both units operate the same way. The only difference between the two is that the portable unit includes a portable transducer and other items that enable portable use. NOTICE! The storage temperature for your unit is from -4 degrees to +167 degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees to +75 degrees Celsius). Extended storage in temperatures higher or lower than specified will damage the liquid crystal display in your unit. This type of damage is not covered by the warranty. For more information, contact the factory's Customer Service Department; phone numbers are inside the manual's back cover.

How Sonar Works

Sonar has been around since the 1940s, so if you already know how it works, skip ahead to the next segment on the typographical conventions used in this manual. But, if you've never owned a sonar fish finder, this segment will tell you the underwater basics. Sonar is an abbreviation for SOund NAvigation and Ranging, a technology developed during World War II for tracking enemy submarines. A sonar consists of a transmitter, transducer, receiver and display. In simple terms, here's how it finds the bottom, or the fish: 3

Transducer centerline Transom
Hull bottom Align transducer centerline with hull bottom.
However, there are times when you may need to adjust the transducer slightly higher or lower. (The slots in the mounting brackets allow you to loosen the screws and slide the transducer up or down.) If you frequently lose bottom signal lock while running at high speed, the transducer may be coming out of the water as you cross waves or wakes. Move the transducer a little lower to help prevent this. If you cruise or fish around lots of structure and cover, your transducer may be frequently kicking up from object strikes. If you wish, you may move the transducer a little higher for more protection. There are two extremes you should avoid. Never let the edge of the mounting bracket extend below the bottom of the hull. Never let the bottom the face of the transducer rise above the bottom of the hull. Shoot-Thru-Hull vs. Transom Mounting In a shoot-thru-hull installation, the transducer is bonded to the inside of the hull with epoxy. The sonar "ping" signal actually passes through the hull and into the water. This differs from a bolt-thru-hull installa9
tion (often called simply "thru-hull"). In that case, a hole is cut in the hull and a specially designed transducer is mounted through the hull with a threaded shaft and nut. This puts the transducer in direct contact with the water. Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability. There is no possibility of damage from floating objects. It can't be knocked off when docking or loading on the trailer. However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks. First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same hull. This is caused by differences in hull lay-up and construction. Second, the transducer angle cannot be adjusted for the best fish arches. This can be a problem on hulls that sit with the bow high when at rest or at slow trolling speeds. Third, a transducer CAN NOT shoot through wood and metal hulls. Those hulls require either a transom mount or a thru-hull installation. Fourth, a Skimmer transducer with a built-in temp sensor will show only the temperature of the bilge, not the water surface temp. Follow the procedure listed in the shoot-thru-hull installation section at the end of this lesson to determine if you can satisfactorily shoot through the hull. Transom Transducer Assembly and Mounting The best way to install these transducers is to loosely assemble all of the parts first, place the transducer's bracket against the transom and see if you can move the transducer so that it's parallel with the ground. 1. Assembling the bracket. Press the two small plastic ratchets into the sides of the metal bracket as shown in the following illustration. Notice there are letters molded into each ratchet. Place each ratchet into the bracket with the letter "A" aligned with the dot stamped into 10

Bottom of hull

Deep-"vee" hull Flat-bottom hull Align transducer centerline with hull bottom and attach to transom.
6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit. Make sure to leave some slack in the cable at the transducer. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from the engine's wiring, bilge pumps, VHF radio wires and cables, and aerators can be picked up by the sonar. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires. WARNING: Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the transducer. This can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed. If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through, the required hole size is 5/8". (If you intend to route an additional speed or temp sensor cable through the same hole, you will need a 1" (25.4 mm) drill bit instead.) Caution: If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is 15
located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the mounting screws. 7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the transducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water, hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull! Trolling Motor Bracket Installation (single-frequency only) 1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer. (Note: The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.)
Internal tooth washer Bolt Nut TMB-S bracket
Flat washer Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.
2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the water. Tighten the strap securely. 16
3. Route the transducer cable alongside the trolling motor shaft. Use plastic ties (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the motor to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is ready for use.

Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.
Transducer Orientation and Fish Arches If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest in the water or at slow trolling speeds.

Partial fish arches

Transducer aimed too far back
Transducer aimed too far forward
Full fish arch Proper transducer angle Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.
If the arch slopes up but not back down then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down and needs to be raised.
NOTE: Periodically wash the transducer's face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity or may even prevent operation. Shoot-Thru-Hull Preparation
Hulls With Flotation Materials
The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials (such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if the material is removed from the chosen area. See the figure below. WARNING: Do not remove any material from your inner hull unless you know the hull's composition. Careless grinding or cutting on your hull can result in damage that could sink your boat. Contact your boat dealer or manufacturer to confirm your hull specifications.
Fill with resin Flotation material
Fill with resin Inner hull

Epoxy to hull first

Outer hull
Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.
For example, some (but not all) manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass, then a core of balsa wood, finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass. Removing the inner layer of fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes the outer layer of fiberglass. The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures for 24 hours, fill the remaining space with polyester resin. When the job is finished, the hull is watertight and structurally sound. Remember, the sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. Any air bubbles in the fiberglass or the epoxy will reduce or eliminate the sonar signals. Testing Determines Best Location Ideally, the shoot-thru transducer should be installed as close to the transom as possible, close to the centerline. This will give you the best performance during high speed maneuvers.
Transducer location (high speed) Transducer location (trolling speed)
Shoot-thru-hull transducer locations for high speed or trolling speed operation.
1. Anchor the boat in about 30 feet of water. Add a little water to the sump of the boat. Plug the transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on, then hold the transducer over the side of the boat in the water. Adjust the sensitivity and range controls until a second bottom echo is seen on the display. (You'll need to turn off Auto Sensitivity, Auto Depth Range and ASP. Try a range setting that is two to three times the water depth. The harder 20

(more rocky) the bottom, the easier it will be to get a second bottom signal.) Don't touch the controls once they've been set.

True bottom

Second bottom

Manual range setting

Example of a second bottom signal. Unit is in 30 feet of water, with range set at 80 feet and sensitivity set at 87 percent.
2. Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in the sump of the boat, face down. (The transducer face is shown in the figure on the following page.) Notice how the signal strength decreases. The second bottom signal will probably disappear and the bottom signal intensity will likely decrease. 3. Now move the transducer around to find the best location with the strongest possible bottom signal. If you find a spot with an acceptable bottom signal, mark the location and move on to step 4. If you can't get an acceptable bottom signal, try turning up the sensitivity by three or five keystrokes and then move the transducer around once more. If you find a spot that works, mark it and move on to step 4. If you have to turn up sensitivity by more than five keystrokes to get a good signal, the transducer should be mounted on the outside of the 21
hull. This is especially true if you have to turn sensitivity all the way up to get a decent bottom signal. 4. Most people can get good results by following steps 1 through 3, so this step is optional. If you want to make an extra effort to be absolutely sure that your selected location will work under all conditions, make a test run with the boat on plane and observe the bottom signal. You'll need to figure some way to prop the transducer into position while you make your test run. (A brick or two might be sufficient to hold it in place.) 5. When you're satisfied with a location, mark it and proceed with the installation. Shoot-Thru-Hull Installation If you are installing the transducer on a hull with floatation material sandwiched within the hull, refer to the text "Hulls with Flotation Materials" beginning on page 19. 1. Make sure the area is clean, dry and free of oil or grease, then sand both the inside surface of the hull and the face of the transducer with 100 grit sandpaper. The sanded hull area should be about 1-1/2 times the diameter of the transducer. The surface of the hull must be flat so the entire transducer face is in contact with the hull prior to bonding. After sanding, clean the hull and transducer with rubbing alcohol to remove any sanding debris.

Spread epoxy here

Sand this surface
Orient the Skimmer with the nose facing the bow of the boat. To bow Epoxy transducer to hull.
WARNING: Use only the epoxy available from LEI. It has been formulated to work with these installation procedures. Other epoxy types may be too thin or may not cure to the right consistency for optimum transducer performance. 2. The epoxy consists of the epoxy itself and a hardener. Remove the two compounds from the package and place them on the paper plate. Thoroughly stir the two compounds together until the mixture has a uniform color and consistency. Do not mix too fast or bubbles will form in the epoxy. After mixing, you have 20 minutes to complete the installation before the epoxy becomes unworkable. Spread a thin layer of epoxy (about 1/16" or 1.5 mm thick) on the face of the transducer as shown in the previous figure. Make sure there are no 23
air pockets in the epoxy layer! Then, apply the remaining epoxy to the sanded area on the hull. 3. Press the transducer into the epoxy, twisting and turning it to force any air bubbles out from under the transducer face. Stop pressing when you bottom out on the hull. When you're finished, the face of the transducer should be parallel with the hull, with a minimum amount of epoxy between the hull and transducer. 4. Apply a weight, such as a brick, to hold the transducer in place while the epoxy cures. Be careful not to bump the transducer while the epoxy is wet. Leave the weight in place for a minimum of three hours. Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours before moving the boat. 5. After the epoxy has cured, route the cable to the sonar unit and it's ready to use.
The FishEasy 240 family can accept as many as two temperature sensors, which can be used to monitor the temperature of surface water, a live well or some other location. These units can accept an optional speed sensor for showing speed and distance traveled. However, you can only use one accessory at a time. If you would like to use a speed sensor and a temperature sensor at the same time, you will need a combination device. NOTE: The FishEasy 240 and FishEasy 240 Portable are packed with transducers containing built-in temp sensors. If you want a speed sensor or an additional temp sensor, see the Accessory Ordering Information in the back of this manual. If a second temp sensor is used, it must be the model TS-2U. This model has a fixed electronic "address" which designates it as the second of two temp sensors. Dual temperatures are displayed only on the Full Chart page. The Large Digital page will display only the primary temperature sensor.

Speed/Temperature Sensors
Primary temp sensor built into transducer TS-2U secondary external temp sensor shown as T2
Full Chart page showing dual temperature display.
See the following charts for sample sensor combinations and cable connections.

Sonar unit rear view

ST-TU combination speed and temperature sensor

3-amp fuse

12-volt battery

Power/transducer cable

Temperature sensor built into transducer

HST-WSU

Sonar unit with external combination speed and temperature sensor. Primary temp sensor is built into transducer.

TS-2U temperature sensor

12-volt battery Power/transducer cable
Sonar unit with secondary external temperature sensor. Primary temp sensor is built into transducer.
Sonar unit rear view SP-U speed-only sensor 3-amp fuse
Sonar unit with external speed sensor. Temp sensor is built into transducer.
Speed Sensor Installation If you wish to purchase an optional sensor for your unit, refer to the accessory ordering information inside the back cover of this manual. The following instructions describe how to install the speed sensor. Recommended tools for this job include: drill, 5/8"drill bit, 1/8" drill bit for pilot holes, screwdriver. Required supplies for this job include: four #8 stainless steel wood screws (3/4" long), high quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline caulking compound. (If you intend to route the sensor cable through the same hole as the transducer cable, you will need a 1" (25.4 mm) drill bit instead of the 5/8" drill bit.) 28
First find a location on the boat's transom where the water flow is smoothest. Don't mount the sensor behind strakes or ribs. These will disturb the water flow to the speed sensor. Make sure the sensor will remain in the water when the boat is on plane. Also make sure the location doesn't interfere with the boat's trailer. Typically, the sensor is mounted about one foot to the side of the transom's centerline. Once you've determined the proper location for the unit, place the sensor on the transom. The bottom of the bracket should be flush with the hull's bottom. Using the sensor as a template, mark the hull for the screws' pilot holes. Drill four 1/8" holes, one in each end of the slots. Mount the sensor to the hull using #8 stainless steel wood screws (not included). Use a high quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline caulking compound to seal the screws. Make sure the sensor is flush with the bottom of the hull and tighten the screws.

Good location Stern view showing good location for mounting sensor on transom.
Bottom of hull Speed sensor mounting configuration: side view (left) and rear view (right.)
If the base of the transom has a radius, fill the gap between the transom and the sensor with the caulking compound. This will help ensure a smooth water flow. Route the sensor's cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit. If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through, the required hole size is 5/8". Caution: If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the screws. The sensor is now ready for use. Connect the sensor to the accessory socket on the back of the unit. If you have any questions concerning the installation of the sensor, please contact your local boat dealer. Power Connections (permanent mount units only) The unit works from a 12-volt battery system. You can attach the power cable to your boat's accessory or power buss (or directly to the battery). If you use an accessory buss but have problems with electrical 30
interference, attach the power cable directly to the battery. If the cable is not long enough, splice #18 gauge wire onto it. CAUTION: When using the unit in a saltwater environment, we strongly recommend that you shut off the power supply to the power cable when the unit is not in use. When the unit is turned off but still connected to a power supply, electrolysis can occur in the power cable plug. This may result in corrosion of the plug body along with the electrical contacts in the cable and the unit's power socket. In saltwater environments we recommend you connect the power cable to the auxiliary power switch included in most boat designs. If that results in electrical interference, or if such a switch is not available, we recommend connecting direct to the battery and installing an inline switch. This will let you shut off power to the power cable when the unit is not in use. When you are not using the unit, you should always shut off power to the power cable, especially when the power cable is disconnected from the unit.
To unit Red wire with 3 amp fuse
Black wire 12 volt battery
Power connections for the FishEasy 240 sonar unit (direct battery connection shown).
If possible, keep the power cable away from other boat wiring, especially the engine's wires. This will provide the best isolation from electrical noise. The power cable has two wires, red and black. Red is the positive lead, black is negative or ground. Make sure to attach the inline fuse holder to the red lead as close to the power source as possible. For example, if you have to extend the power cable to the battery or power buss, attach one end of the fuse holder directly to the battery or power buss. This will protect both the unit and the power cable in the event of a short. It uses a 3-amp fuse. Caution: Do not use this product without a 3-amp fuse wired into the power cable! Failure to use a 3-amp fuse will void your warranty. This unit has reverse polarity protection. No damage will occur if the power wires are reversed. However, the unit will not work until the wires are attached correctly. Mounting the Sonar Unit: In-Dash, Bracket or Portable You can install the sonar unit on the top of a dash with the supplied bracket. This unit can be installed in a dash with the optional FM-6 indash adapter kit. The FM-6 kit includes an instruction sheet, part 9880147-631, which contains a template for cutting out the mounting hole. This document can be downloaded free from the www.eaglesonar.com web site. Bracket Installation Recommended tools for this job include: drill, 1" (25.4 mm) drill bit, screwdriver. Required supplies for this job include: high quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline caulking compound, three #10 stainless steel screws. Screw length and type should be suitable for the material on which you intend to mount the bracket. 32

Mount the unit in any convenient location, provided there is clearance when its tilted for the best viewing angle. You should also make sure there is enough room behind the unit to attach the power/transducer cable. (See the following drawings, which show the dimensions of a gimbal-mounted FishEasy 240 sonar unit.) Holes in the brackets base allow wood screw or through-bolt mounting. You may need to place a piece of plywood on the back side of thin panels to reinforce the panel and secure the mounting hardware. Drill a 1" (25.4 mm) hole in the dash for the power/transducer and accessory cables. The best location for this hole is immediately under the gimbal bracket location. This way, the bracket can be installed so that it covers the hole, holds the cables in position and results in a neat installation. Some customers, however, prefer to mount the bracket to the side of the cable hole it's a matter of personal preference.

107.5 [4.23]

82.7 [3.26]

156 [6.26]

12.09 [0.48]

76.9 [3.03]

Millimeter [Inch]

70.3 [2.77]

Front view (left) and side view (right) showing dimensions of the FishEasy 240 when mounted on quick release bracket.
After drilling the hole, pass the connectors up through the hole from under the dash. If you wish, you can fill in the hole around the cable with a good marine caulking compound. (Some marine dealers stock cable hole covers to conceal the opening.)
Using the Quick Release Mounting Bracket
These units use a quick release mounting bracket. When you run the cables through the bracket's cable slots, make sure you allow enough slack for tilting the unit and attaching the connector. (The snug fit of the push-on waterproof connector requires some force to attach.)
Align the bracket over the cable hole with the cable slots facing away from you and fit the cable through one of the slots. Fasten the bracket to the dash using the three screw holes.
Ratchet Rear (away from viewer) Screw hole

Cable slot

FishEasy 240 quick release mounting bracket. Slots in the base allow routing the cable from beneath the mount.
Attach the unit to the bracket by first connecting the power/transducer and accessory cables. Then, hold the sonar unit vertically and slide it onto the bracket from above. (The back of the unit should be touching the front of the bracket as you lower it into position.) As you push down, the unit will lock into place with a distinct click. To adjust the viewing angle, pinch the ratchets with one hand, then tilt the unit with your other hand. Release the ratchets and the unit locks into the new position. To dismount the unit for storage, press the ratchets and lift the unit off the bracket. 35

Bracket front

Mount the sonar: slide the unit onto the bracket from above.
Depress ratchets to release
Adjust viewing angle: use one hand to press and release the springloaded ratchets while you move the unit with the other hand.
Portable Sonar Installation Like many Eagle products, the FishEasy 240 sonar is capable of portable operation. It uses the optional PPP-12 portable power pack. The power pack and portable transducers expand the uses for your sonar. You can use your FishEasy 240 sonar unit on your boat or take it to the dock, on a float tube, on an ice fishing trip or use it as a second sonar in a friend's boat. The PPP-12 package includes the power pack, battery adapter and a portable transducer. The transducer can be stored inside the power pack. The PPP-12 requires eight AA alkaline batteries. Batteries are not included. To use a portable power pack, you simply install the batteries and then attach the sonar unit to the power pack's bracket. Plug in the power/transducer cable and you're ready to fish. The PPP-12 has a quick-release mounting bracket built into the case. Installing the Batteries Release the latch on the front of the power pack case. Open the compartment and install eight AA batteries into the adapter. For the longest life, we recommend you use alkaline batteries. NOTE: When the unit is not in use, we recommend you unplug the power connector to reduce the possibility of corrosion or battery drain. When you store the unit, always remove the batteries because dead batteries can leak and corrode the contacts. After installing the batteries, close the case and plug the sonar unit's power cable into the socket on the power pack case.
PPP-12 Portable Power Pack with FishEasy 240 stowed for transport.
Turn the sonar unit on. If it doesn't work, make sure the battery terminals are making good contact against the battery contacts. Also check the wiring connections on the battery adapter. The red wire on the power cable should be attached to the red wire on the battery adapter and the power cable's black wire should be connected to the black wire on the battery adapter. If it still doesn't work, check the battery voltage. Most of the complaints we receive about portable units result from stale batteries. Make sure the ones you buy are fresh. In cold weather the efficiency of dry cell batteries drops with the temperature. We find it a good idea to have the sonar unit good and warm along with the batteries before we leave home. If the batteries do lose a charge, you can sometimes restore them by placing them in a warm room or car interior. A better way is to replace them with batteries that have been kept warm. WARNING: Never heat the batteries over an open flame or direct hot air onto them. A fire or explosion could result. 38

Thin or no Grayline

Wider Grayline
At left, Grayline menu screen. Center, little Grayline indicates a soft bottom, probably sand or mud. At right, the wider Grayline indicates a harder, rocky bottom.

Fish I.D.

The Fish I.D. feature identifies targets that meet certain conditions as fish. The microcomputer analyses all echoes and eliminates surface clutter, thermoclines and other signals that are undesirable. In most instances, remaining targets are fish. The Fish I.D. feature displays symbols on the screen in place of the actual fish echoes. There are three symbol sizes: small, medium, and large. These show the relative size between targets. In other words, it 55
displays a small fish symbol when it thinks a target is a small fish, a medium fish symbol on a larger target and so forth.

Fish I.D. symbol

Fish arches
Fish I.D. is an easier way for a sonar novice to recognize a fishy signal return when he sees it. However, locating fish by symbol only has some limitations. Your sonar unit's microcomputer is sophisticated, but it can be fooled. It can't distinguish between fish and other suspended objects such as trotlines, turtles, submerged floats, air bubbles, etc. Individual tree limbs extending outward from a group of limbs are the hardest objects for the Fish I.D. feature to distinguish from fish. To see what's under your boat in maximum detail, we recommend you turn off Fish I.D. and begin learning to interpret fish arches. You may see Fish I.D. symbols on the screen when actually, there are no fish. The reverse is also true Fish I.D. can actually miss fish that are present. Does that mean Fish I.D. is broken? No the feature is simply interpreting sonar returns in a specific way to help take some of the work 56
At left, underwater scene in normal fish arch mode. Right, Fish I.D. menu with the feature turned on.
out of reading the screen. Remember: Fish I.D. is one of the many tools we provide so you can analyze your sonar returns for maximum fish finding information. This and other features can help you successfully "see" beneath the boat under varied water and fishing conditions. So, practice with the unit in both the Fish I.D. mode and without to become more familiar with the feature. The default for Fish I.D. is off. Fish I.D. is most handy when you're in another part of the boat or performing some task that prevents you from watching the sonar screen. Then, you can turn on Fish I.D. and the audible fish alarm. When that lunker swims under your boat, you'll hear it! Fish I.D. can also be useful when you want to screen out some of the sonar detail gathered by your unit. For example, it can help cut through the clutter of suspended bubbles caused by wave action or boat wakes. To turn Fish I.D. on, press MENU until the FISH ID menu appears. Press UP ARROW to select ON, then press PWR. To turn it back off, repeat the above steps, but press DOWN ARROW to select OFF.

Limit Search menu.

To turn Limit Search off, repeat the above steps but press the DOWN ARROW to select "Off." Also remember to switch the depth range setting back to automatic. This will restore the digital sonar's ability to automatically track the bottom.
Digital Data Size for Depth, Temperature, Speed, and Distance Log
The size of the digital numbers for the depth, temperature, speed and distance log can individually be changed to any one of three sizes. The digital displays can also be turned off or on. 74
To change any of these options, press MENU DOWN until CHART SETUP appears, then press UP ARROW. Use the MENU keys to cycle through the list and display the desired menu, then use the ARROW keys to select the desired number size or turn the numbers off. Press the PWR key to clear the menus.
Menus for changing digital number size.

Scales

The depth scale between the upper and lower limit on the right side of the screen can be turned on or off. The default is on.
Scales menu, with scale on (left) and off (right). With the scale off, only the upper and lower limits (zero and 60 in this case) are displayed
To turn the scale off, press MENU DOWN until CHART SETUP appears, then press UP ARROW. Press MENU DOWN until SCALES appears, then press DOWN ARROW to select UPPER LOWER ONLY. Press the PWR key to clear the menus. To turn scale on, press MENU DOWN until CHART SETUP appears, then press UP ARROW. Press MENU DOWN until SCALES appears, then press UP ARROW to select SHOW INTERMEDIATE. Press the PWR key to clear the menus.

Troubleshooting

If your unit is not working, or if you need technical help, please use the following troubleshooting section before contacting the factory customer service department. It may save you the trouble of returning your unit for repair. For contact information, refer to the last page, just inside the back cover of this manual. Unit won't turn on: 1. Check the power cable's connection at the unit. Also check the wiring. 2. Make certain the power cable is wired properly. The red wire connects to the positive battery terminal, black to negative or ground. 3. Check the fuse. 4. Measure the battery voltage at the unit's power connector. It should be at least 11 volts. If it isn't, the wiring to the unit is defective, the battery terminals or wiring on the terminals are corroded, or the battery needs charging. Unit operates only in demo mode: 1. The transducer has not yet been connected or has been disconnected. To leave demo mode, make sure the transducer is securely connected before turning the unit on. Unit freezes, locks up, or operates erratically: 1. Electrical noise from the boat's motor, trolling motor, or an accessory may be interfering with the sonar unit. Rerouting the power and transducer cables away from other electrical wiring on the boat may help. Route the sonar unit's power cable directly to the battery instead of through a fuse block or ignition switch 2. Inspect the transducer cable for breaks, cuts, or pinched wires. 3. Check both the transducer and power connectors. Make certain both are securely plugged in to the unit. 77

Sensitivity should be set at 90-95 percent. There should be a steady bottom signal on the display. Now turn on each piece of electrical equipment on the boat and view the effect on the sonar's display. For example, turn on the bilge pump and view the sonar display for noise. If no noise is present, turn the pump off, then turn on the VHF radio and transmit. Keep doing this until all electrical equipment has been turned on, their effect on the sonar display noted, then turned off. If you find noise interference from an electrical instrument, trolling motor, pump, or radio, try to isolate the problem. You can usually reroute the sonar unit's power cable and transducer cable away from the wiring that is causing the interference. VHF radio antenna cables radiate noise when transmitting, so be certain to keep the sonar's wires away from it. You may need to route the sonar unit's power cable directly to the battery to isolate it from other wiring on the boat. If no noise displays on the sonar unit from electrical equipment, then make certain everything except the sonar unit is turned off, then start the engine. Increase the RPM with the gearshift in neutral. If noise appears on the display, the problem could be one of three things; spark plugs, alternator, or tachometer wiring. Try using resistor spark plugs, alternator filters, or routing the sonar unit's power cable away from engine wiring. Again, routing the power cable directly to the battery helps eliminate noise problems. Make certain to use the in-line fuse supplied with the unit when wiring the power cable to the battery. When no noise appears on the sonar unit after all of the above tests, then the noise source is probably cavitation. Many novices or persons with limited experience make hasty sonar installations which function perfectly in shallow water, or when the boat is at rest. In nearly all cases, the cause of the malfunction will be the location and/or angle of the transducer. The face of the transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of water at all boat speeds. Read your transducer owner's manual for the best mounting position. 80
A Accessories, 5, 35, 36 Alarms, 60 Depth Alarms, 61 Fish Alarm, 61 Antenna, 78 ASP (Advanced Signal Processing), 24, 59 B Backlights / Lighting, 6, 64 Batteries, 9, 10, 33, 34, 38, 41, 75, 76, 78 C Contrast, 6, 63, 64, 65 D Depth Range, 24, 25, 42, 46, 47, 48, 49, 57, 71, 72, 76, 77 F Fish Depths, 55 Fish I.D., 42, 54 Fish Symbols, 42, 54 FishReveal, 56 FishTrack, 55 Frequency, 6 H HyperScroll, I Installation, 9, 26, 31, 35, 36, 37, 38 Introduction Specifications, 5 P Page Displays, 44 Digital Data, 72 Ping Speed HyperScroll, 58 Power, 6, 9, 10, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 53, 75, 76, 77, 78 Product Specifications, 5 R Range, 24, 25, 42, 46, 47, 48, 49, 57, 71, 72, 76, 77 Route, 9, 12, 18, 19, 20, 27, 31, 33, 75, 78 S Sensitivity, 24, 41, 49, 50, 51, 52, 77 Simulator, 5, 69, 70 Sonar Chart Color Mode FishReveal, 56 Speed Sensors, 5, 7, 28, 31, 32, 46, 67

Pub. 988-0143-641 www.eaglesonar.com
Fish-finding & Depth Sounding Sonars
FishEasy 2, FishEasy 2T, FishEasy 2 Portable, SeaFinder 240DF
Installation and Operation Instructions
Copyright 2002 Eagle Electronics All rights reserved. Eagle is a registered trademark of Eagle Electronics Marine-Tex is a trademark of Illinois Tool Works Inc.
Eagle Electronics may find it necessary to change or end our policies, regulations, and special offers at any time. We reserve the right to do so without notice. All features and specifications subject to change without notice. All screens in this manual are simulated.
For free owner's manuals and other information, visit our web site:

www.eaglesonar.com

Eagle Electronics P.O. Box 669 Catoosa, OK USA 74015 Printed in USA.

Table of Contents

Introduction.... 1 Capabilities and Specifications.. 1 Installation.... 3 Transducer Installation... 3 selecting a transducer location.. 4 shoot-thru-hull vs. transom mounting.. 6 transom transducer assembly and mounting.. 6 trolling motor bracket installation..12 transducer orientation and fish arches.13 shoot-thru-hull preparation and installation. 13 Speed and temperature sensors..16 Optional speed sensor installation...19 Power connections..20 Mounting sonar unit: in-dash, bracket or portable..21 In-Dash installation...21 Bracket installation..22 Portable installation...23 Operation and features...27 Keyboard basics...27 Turn on and off...27 Menus...27 Display opening screen...28 Chart scroll (stop or start scroll)..29 Screen Display Modes (Page Menu)..30 Full Chart....30 Split Chart...31 Dual Frequency (Dual Freq SeaFinder 240DF only).31 Large Digital (Lrg Digital)...32 Range - automatic and manual...33 Zoom....33 Sensitivity...35 Grayline...37 Fish I.D...38 FishTrack....39 FishReveal chart mode...40 Chart scroll speed and HyperScroll...41 Noise reject and ASP (Advanced Signal Processing)..42 Alarms...43 Fish alarm...43 Shallow alarm...44 Deep alarm...45 i
System Setup....46 Display backlights...46 Display contrast..46 Depth units of measure...47 Temperature units of measure..48 Speed and distance log units of measure..48 Reset distance log...49 Preset unit (reset all options)...49 System Info (operating software version)..50 Simulator...50 Chart Setup...51 Limit Search...51 Change Frequency (SeaFinder 240DF only)..52 Digital data size for depth, temperature, speed and distance log.. 53 Scales....54 Chart Mode (see FishReveal)..40 Troubleshooting...55 Warranty and service information...61

Introduction

Thank you for buying an Eagle sonar! Your unit is a high-quality sonar designed for both professional and novice fishermen. All Eagle sonars have an automatic mode that finds and displays the bottom, fish, underwater structure and more right out of the box. All you have to do is press the on (PWR) key. However, if you want to fine-tune your unit, press the MENU UP key. The FishEasy 2 family has several powerful features you can control by scrolling through easy-to-use menus with the arrow and menu keys. To get started with your Eagle sonar, first read the installation section. It contains instructions for mounting the sonar unit, the transducer and any optional accessories, such as a speed sensor. Following recommended installation practices will pay off in optimum performance of your Eagle sonar. Improper installation can cause problems down the road, especially if the transducer is badly mounted. After you've read the installation instructions, install the unit and accessories. Then, read the rest of the manual. The more you know about your sonar, the better it will work for you. Take advantage of the Simulator feature. It allows you to practice operating your sonar before you get it in the water. And when you finally head for your favorite fishing hole, take this manual along for reference.

parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3B. If it doesn't, repeat step 2B, but use a different alignment letter until you can place the transducer on the transom correctly.
Lock washer Bolt Nut Flat washer Flat washer
Assemble transducer and bracket.
3. Assembling the transducer. A. One-piece bracket: Once you determine the correct position for the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the following figure. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.

Nut Metal washer

Rubber washers Bolt

Metal washer

B. Two-piece bracket: Once you determine the correct position for the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the figure in step 2B. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time. 4. Drilling mounting holes. Hold the transducer and bracket assembly against the transom. The transducer should be roughly parallel to the ground. The transducer's centerline should be in line with the bottom of the hull. Don't let the bracket extend below the hull! 9
Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You will drill one hole in the center of each slot. Drill the holes. For the one-piece bracket, use the #29 bit (for the #10 screws). For the two-piece bracket, use the #20 bit (for the #12 screws).

Transom

Position transducer mount on transom and mark mounting holes. Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
5. Attaching transducer to transom. A. One-piece bracket: Remove the transducer from the bracket and re-assemble it with the cable passing through the bracket over the bolt as shown in the following figures.
For single frequency Skimmer, route cable over bolt and through bracket. Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
Both bracket types: Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the transducer up or down until it's aligned properly with the bottom of the hull as shown in the preceding and following figures. Tighten the bracket's mounting screws, sealing them with the caulking compound. Adjust the transducer so that it's parallel to the ground and tighten the nut until it touches the outer washer, then add 1/4 turn. Don't over tighten the lock nut! If you do, the transducer won't "kick-up" if it strikes an object in the water.

Bottom of hull

Flat-bottom hull Deep-"vee" hull Align transducer centerline with hull bottom and attach transducer to transom. Rear view of dual frequency Skimmer shown.
6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit. Make sure to leave some slack in the cable at the transducer. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from the engine's wiring, bilge pumps, VHF radio wires and cables, and aerators can be picked up by the sonar. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires. WARNING: Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the transducer. This can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed. If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through, the required hole size be 5/8". Caution: If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the mounting screws. 11

7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the transducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water, hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull! TROLLING MOTOR BRACKET INSTALLATION (single-frequency only) 1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer. (Note: The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.)
Internal tooth washer Bolt Nut TMB-S bracket

Flat washer

Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.
2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the water. Tighten the strap securely. 3. Route the transducer cable alongside the trolling motor shaft. Use plastic ties (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the motor to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is ready for use.
Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.
TRANSDUCER ORIENTATION AND FISH ARCHES If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest in the water or at slow trolling speeds.

Partial fish arches

Transducer aimed too far back
Transducer aimed too far forward
Full fish arch Proper transducer angle Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.
If the arch slopes up but not back down then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down and needs to be raised. NOTE: Periodically wash the transducer's face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity or may even prevent operation. SHOOT-THRU-HULL PREPARATION The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful 13
transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials (such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if the material is removed from the chosen area.
Fill with epoxy Flotation material Inner hull

Epoxy to hull first

Outer hull
Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.
For example, some (but not all) manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass, then a core of balsa wood, finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass. Removing the inner layer of fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes the outer layer of fiberglass. The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures, the hull is watertight and structurally sound. Remember, the sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. Any air bubbles in the fiberglass or the epoxy will reduce or eliminate the sonar signals. WARNING: Do not remove any material from your inner hull unless you know the hull's composition. Careless grinding or cutting on your hull can result in damage that could sink your boat. Contact your boat dealer or manufacturer to confirm your hull specifications. To choose the proper location for thru-hull mounting, anchor the boat in 60 feet of water. Add a little water to the sump of the boat. Plug the transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on, then hold the transducer over the side of the boat. Adjust the sensitivity and range controls until a second bottom echo is seen on the display. (You will need to turn off both automatic and ASP.) Don't touch the controls once they've been set. Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in the sump of the boat. Observe the sonar signal to see if there is a noticeable decrease in sensitivity. The second bottom signal may disappear and the bottom signal may decrease in intensity. Move the transducer around to find the best location. If the sensitivity control must be increased greatly to compensate, then the transducer should be mounted on the outside of the hull. If not, then mark the lo14

cation that shot through the hull the best and follow the instructions on the following pages for a shoot-thru-hull mounting.
Transducer location (high speed) Transducer location (trolling speed)
Shoot-thru-hull transducer locations for high speed or trolling speed operation.
Shoot-thru-hull Installation 1. Make sure the area is clean, dry and free of oil or grease, then sand both the inside surface of the hull and the face of the transducer with 100 grit sandpaper. The surface of the hull must be flat so the entire transducer face is in contact with the hull prior to bonding.

Spread epoxy here

Sand this surface
Epoxy transducer to hull.
2. Follow the instructions on the epoxy package and mix it thoroughly. Do not mix it too fast, because it will cause bubbles to form in the epoxy. Apply a small amount on the face of the transducer as shown above, then spread a small amount onto the sanded area on the hull.
Place the transducer into the epoxy, twisting and turning it to force any air bubbles out from under the transducer face. The face of the transducer should be parallel with the hull, with a minimum amount of epoxy between the hull and transducer. After the epoxy dries, route the cable to the sonar unit.
Speed/Temperature Sensors
The FishEasy 2 family can accept as many as two temperature sensors, which can be used to monitor the temperature of surface water, a live well or some other location. These units can accept an optional speed sensor for showing speed and distance traveled. However, you can only use one accessory at a time. If you would like to use a speed sensor and a temperature sensor at the same time, you will need a combination device. NOTE: The FishEasy 2T and SeaFinder 240DF are packed with transducers containing built-in temp sensors. The SeaFinder package also includes a speed sensor. If you have another model and want a speed or temp sensor, see the Accessory Ordering Information in the back of this manual. If a second temp sensor is used, it must be the model TS-2U. This model has a fixed electronic "address" which designates it as the second of two temp sensors. Dual temperatures are only displayed on the Full Chart page. The Large Digital page will only display the primary temperature sensor.
Primary temp sensor built into transducer TS-2U secondary external temp sensor shown as T2
Full Chart page showing dual temperature display.
See the following charts for sample sensor combinations and cable connections. 16
Sonar unit rear view TS-2U temperature sensor 3-amp fuse
12-volt battery Power/transducer cable Transducer with no temperature sensor Sonar unit with external temperature sensor. Transducer lacks a builtin temperature sensor. Sonar unit rear view ST-TU combination speed and temperature sensor

3-amp fuse

12-volt battery Power/transducer cable Transducer with no temperature sensor Sonar unit with external combination speed and temperature sensor. The transducer has no temperature sensor.

136 [5.35] [2.25] 23.8 [0.94]

132 [5.20]

147.4 [5.80]

Millimeter [Inch]

66 [2.60]
Front view (left) and side view (right) showing dimensions of FishEasy 2 family sonar units when mounted on gimbal bracket.
It may be necessary to place a piece of plywood on the back side of thin panels to reinforce the panel. Make sure there is enough room behind the unit to attach the power and transducer cables. Drill a 1-inch (25.4 mm) hole in the dash for the power and transducer cables. The best location for this hole is immediately under the gimbal bracket location. This way, the bracket can be installed so that it covers the hole, holds the cables in position and results in a neat installation. Some customers, however, prefer to mount the bracket to the side of the cable hole it's a matter of personal preference. After drilling the hole, pass the transducer connector up through the hole from under the dash. Drop the power cable's bare-wire end down though the hole from the top. If you wish, you can fill in the hole around the cables with a good marine caulking compound. (Some marine dealers stock cable hole covers to conceal the opening.) No matter what type of installation you prefer, 22
be sure to leave enough slack in the cables to allow tilting or swiveling the unit. If you choose to fill in the hole, be sure to position the cables against the rear edge of the hole as you apply the fill material. Before positioning the bracket, be sure to hold the cables against the rear edge of the hole. Then, slide the bracket over the hole and butt the rear of the bracket base firmly against the cables, thus pinning them in place against the side of the hole. Finally, fasten the bracket to the dash. Attach the unit to the gimbal bracket using the supplied gimbal knobs and washers. Slide the rubber washers onto the gimbal knobs then loosely screw the knobs into their sockets. Slide the unit into the bracket with the rubber washers to the outside of the bracket arms. Tilt the unit to the desired viewing angle and tighten the knobs finger tight Portable Sonar Installation Like many Eagle products, the FishEasy 2 sonar family is capable of portable operation by using the optional PPP-13 portable power pack. In fact, the FishEasy 2 Portable package includes the PPP-13 and the transducer necessary for portable use. The power pack and portable or floating transducers expand the uses for your sonar. You can use your FishEasy 2 or FishEasy 2 Portable on your boat or take it to the dock, on a float tube, on an ice fishing trip or use it as a second sonar in a friend's boat. The PPP-13 package includes the power pack, battery adapter and a portable transducer. Batteries are not included. The power pack has a storage compartment for the portable transducer. The pack can be used with eight "D" cell alkaline batteries or an optional sealed, rechargeable battery. To use the portable power pack, you simply install the batteries and then attach the sonar unit to the power pack's bracket. Plug in the power and transducer cables and you're ready to fish. Attach the sonar unit to the bracket with the supplied washers and knobs. Installing the Power Pack Recommended tools for installation include a slotted screw driver and two adjustable wrenches. The following figure shows the proper arrangement for the washers.

This screen shows a typical menu, the Scroll Speed menu.
DISPLAY Opening Screen The lights flash for about 10 seconds when the unit is turned on. The backlight menu first appears on the screen. To turn the lights on, press 28
UP ARROW. If you dont press a key, the menu will disappear after a few seconds. If you don't want to wait, press PWR to clear the menus from the screen.
When the sonar unit is first turned on and the backlight menu disappears, the display screen shows the Full Chart Page, or mode. The Fish I.D. feature is off. The depth range shows on the depth scale on the right side of the screen. On the screen below, the range is from 0 to 60 feet and the bottom depth is 33.2 feet, shown by the digital sonar.
Digital depth School of bait fish Fish arches near bait fish Depth scale Grayline Depth range at bottom of depth scale Surface clutter
Thermocline Bottom signal Transducer frequency (SeaFinder 240DF only) Speed
Opening screen, Full Chart page, or mode.
CHART SCROLL (stopping and starting) In normal operation, the sonar chart will scroll from right to left across the screen. You can stop the chart from scrolling across the screen. This is useful when you want to "freeze" the picture to study it more closely. To stop or start the chart, press MENU until the CHART menu appears. Use the arrow keys to select or highlight the desired setting, then press PWR to clear the menu.
Chart menu. Chart is running or scrolling normally at left. Chart is stopped at right, and "Stopped" warning message appears.
SCREEN DISPLAY MODES or PAGES The FishEasy 2 series has three screen display modes, or "Pages:" Full Chart page, Split Chart page and Large Digital page. The SeaFinder 240DF also has a Dual Frequency page.
The Page menu lets you select among the display modes, or pages. Left, FishEasy 2 series Page menu. Right, SeaFinder 240DF Page menu.
To switch from one page to another page, press MENU until the PAGE menu appears. Press UP ARROW or DOWN ARROW to select the desired page. (The screen changes as you move through the menu.) When the page you want is selected, press PWR to clear the menu. FULL CHART This shows all echoes scrolling across the full screen. This is the default page. The bottom signal scrolls across the screen from right to left. Depth scales on the right side of the screen make it easy to determine the depth of fish, structure, and other targets. The line at the top of the screen represents the surface. The bottom depth (as determined by the digital sonar) shows in the upper left corner.

Thin or no Grayline

Wider Grayline
At left, Grayline menu screen. Center, little Grayline indicates a soft bottom, probably sand or mud. At right, the wider Grayline indicates a harder, rocky bottom.
FISH I.D. The Fish I.D. feature identifies targets that meet certain conditions as fish. The microcomputer analyses all echoes and eliminates surface clutter, thermoclines and other signals that are undesirable. In most instances, remaining targets are fish. The Fish I.D. feature displays symbols on the screen in place of the actual fish echoes. There are three symbol sizes: small, medium, and large. These show the relative size between targets. In other words, it displays a small fish symbol when it thinks a target is a small fish, a medium fish symbol on a larger target and so forth.

Fish I.D. symbol

Fish arches
At left, underwater scene in normal fish arch mode. Right, Fish I.D. menu with the feature turned on.
Fish I.D. is an easier way for a sonar novice to recognize a fishy signal return when he sees it. However, locating fish by symbol only has some limitations. Your sonar unit's microcomputer is sophisticated, but it can be fooled. It can't distinguish between fish and other suspended objects such as trotlines, turtles, submerged floats, air bubbles, etc. Individual tree limbs extending outward from a group of limbs are the hardest objects for the Fish I.D. feature to distinguish from fish. To see what's under your boat in maximum detail, we recommend you turn off Fish I.D. and begin learning to interpret fish arches. You may see Fish I.D. symbols on the screen when actually, there are no fish. The reverse is also true Fish I.D. can actually miss fish that are present. Does that mean Fish I.D. is broken? No the feature is simply interpreting sonar returns in a specific way to help take some of the work out of reading the screen. Remember: Fish I.D. is one of the many tools we provide so you can analyze your sonar returns for maximum fish finding information. This and other features can help you successfully "see" beneath the boat under varied water and fishing conditions. So, practice with the unit in both the Fish I.D. mode and without to become more familiar with the feature. The default for Fish I.D. is off. Fish I.D. is most handy when you're in another part of the boat or performing some task that prevents you from watching the sonar screen. Then, you can turn on Fish I.D. and the audible fish alarm. When that lunker swims under your boat, you'll hear it! Fish I.D. can also be useful when you want to screen out some of the sonar detail gathered by your unit. For example, it can help cut through the clutter of suspended bubbles caused by wave action or boat wakes. To turn Fish I.D. on, press MENU until the FISH ID menu appears. Press UP ARROW to select ON, then press PWR. To turn it back off, repeat the above steps, but press DOWN ARROW to select OFF. FISHTRACK The FishTrack feature shows the depth of a fish symbol when it appears on the display. To turn it on, press MENU until the FISH ID menu appears. Press UP ARROW to select TRACK ON, then press PWR. To turn it off, repeat the above steps, but press DOWN ARROW to select OFF. (If you want to turn off FishTrack depths but leave Fish I.D. on, press DOWN ARROW to select ON, then press PWR.) Remember, Fish I.D. must be on in order to use the FishTrack feature. 39

Fish Alarm menu.

Depth Alarms The depth alarms are triggered only by the bottom signal. No other echoes will activate these alarms. The depth alarms consist of a shallow and a deep alarm. The shallow alarm sounds an alarm tone when the bottom goes shallower than the alarm's setting. The deep alarm sounds a tone when the bottom goes deeper than its setting. Both alarms adjust the same way, although through different menus. Shallow Alarm To set the shallow alarm depth, press MENU DOWN repeatedly until SHALLOW ALARM appears.

Shallow Alarm menu.

Press UP ARROW to increase the shallow alarm's depth setting or press DOWN ARROW to decrease it. The number in the shallow alarms menu box shows the current shallow alarm setting. When the number reaches the desired setting, press PWR to clear the menu. When the bottom depth goes shallower than the alarms setting, an alarm tone sounds and a message box appears on the screen. Press UP ARROW to silence the alarm. This turns the alarm sound off until the shallow alarm is triggered again. To turn the alarm off, press MENU DOWN repeatedly until SHALLOW ALARM appears. Press DOWN ARROW until the words OFF FEET appear, then press PWR to clear the menu. Deep Alarm To set the deep alarm depth, press MENU DOWN repeatedly until DEEP ALARM appears. Press UP ARROW to increase the deep alarm's depth setting or press DOWN ARROW to decrease it. The number in the deep alarms menu box shows the current deep alarm setting. When the number reaches the desired setting, press PWR to clear the menu. When the bottom depth goes deeper than the alarms setting, an alarm tone sounds and a message box appears on the screen.

Deep Alarm menu.

Press UP ARROW to silence the alarm. This turns the alarm sound off until the deep alarm is triggered again. To turn the alarm off, press MENU DOWN repeatedly until DEEP ALARM appears. Press DOWN ARROW until the words OFF FEET appear, then press PWR to clear the menu. 45

SYSTEM SETUP

To customize the display, press MENU DOWN until the SYSTEM SETUP menu appears, then press UP ARROW. The display contrast, units of measure, temperature, and system information screens are all under this menu. The Contrast menu appears first. Press the MENU UP or MENU DOWN keys to cycle through the menus. When you're finished, press the PWR key to clear the menus.

System Setup menu.

DISPLAY ADJUSTMENTS BACKLIGHTS The display is backlit for night use. To turn the backlight on or off, press MENU repeatedly until the BACK LIGHT menu appears. Press UP ARROW to turn the light on or the DOWN ARROW to turn it off.

Backlight menu.

DISPLAY CONTRAST The units display contrast is adjustable to suit different lighting conditions. This will help you see the screen from different angles or at vari46

ous times of the day. The default setting is 50 percent. To adjust the contrast, press MENU DOWN until the SYSTEM menu appears, press UP ARROW, and the CONTRAST menu appears. To decrease screen contrast, press the DOWN ARROW key. Press the UP ARROW key to increase screen contrast. The bar graph in the Contrast menu box shows a graph of the contrast. The screen will also show the effects of the change. If you reach the maximum or minimum level, a tone sounds alerting you to the limits. Press the PWR key to clear the menu.

Display Contrast menu.

DEPTH UNITS OF MEASURE This unit can show the depth in feet, fathoms or meters. To change the depth units of measure, press MENU DOWN until the SYSTEM menu appears, press UP ARROW, then press MENU until the DEPTH menu appears. Use the arrow keys to select the desired unit of measure, then press the PWR key to clear the menu.
Depth menu controls the unit of measure used to show depth.
TEMPERATURE UNITS OF MEASURE This unit can show the temperature (if a temperature sensor is attached) in degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius. To change the unit of measure, press MENU DOWN until the SYSTEM menu appears. Press UP ARROW, then press MENU until the TEMPERATURE menu appears. Use the arrow keys to select the measurement unit, then press PWR to clear the menu.
Temperature unit of measure menu.
SPEED and DISTANCE LOG UNITS OF MEASURE The speed and distance log can be displayed in statute miles (MPH), Nautical miles (knots), or Metric (kilometers per hour) if a speed sensor is attached. To change the unit of measure, press MENU DOWN until the SYSTEM menu appears. Press UP ARROW, then press MENU until the SPEED/LOG menu appears. Use the arrow keys to select the desired measurement unit, then press PWR to clear the menu.

Speed menu.

RESET DISTANCE LOG You can reset the distance log to zero with this command. Press MENU DOWN until SYSTEM appears, then press UP ARROW. Press MENU until the RESET LOG menu appears. Press UP ARROW and the log returns to zero. Press PWR to clear the menu.

Reset Log menu.

PRESET UNIT (reset all options) This command is used to reset all features, options and settings to their original factory defaults. This is useful when you have changed several settings and want to return the unit to basic automatic operation. Press MENU DOWN until SYSTEM appears, then press UP ARROW. Press MENU DOWN until the PRESET UNIT menu appears. Press UP ARROW and the unit will turn itself off and reset all options. Turn the unit back on by pressing PWR.
Preset Unit menu resets all options to the factory settings.
SYSTEM INFO To show the operating software system information, press MENU DOWN until the SYSTEM menu appears, then press UP ARROW. Press MENU DOWN until the SYSTEM INFO screen appears. Press PWR to clear the screen.

System Info screen.

SIMULATOR This unit has a built-in simulator that shows a simulated bottom signal with fish signals. This lets you practice with the unit as if you were on the water; all features and functions of the unit are usable. A message appears occasionally to remind you that the simulator is on. To use the simulator, press DOWN MENU repeatedly until the SYSTEM menu appears, then press UP ARROW. Press DOWN MENU until the SIMULATOR menu appears. Now press UP ARROW to turn it on, and press PWR to clear the menu. Repeat the above steps to turn it off, or you can simply turn the unit off and back on again.

Simulator menu.

NOTE: If you turn on your unit before attaching a transducer, it may enter a demo mode. The words "demo mode" flash on the bottom of the screen and a sonar chart plays much like the simulator. Unlike the simulator, the demo mode is for demonstration only, and will automatically stop as soon as you turn on the unit with a transducer attached. The simulator will continue to function normally. CHART SETUP The Chart Setup menu lets you further customize the display. The size of the digital numbers for the depth, temperature, speed and distance log can be customized from this menu. The depth scales shown on the right side of the screen can be modified, and the Fish Reveal modes can be turned on or off. To enter the Chart Setup menu sequence, press MENU DOWN until the CHART SETUP menu appears. Press UP ARROW and then you can use the menu keys to cycle through the chart setup menus.

Chart Setup menu.

LIMIT SEARCH The Limit Search command helps you maintain maximum chart detail when you are moving fast in deep water (about 200 feet.) When turned on, Limit Search prevents the digital sonar from over-riding the sonar chart's depth range setting. Limit Search does this by preventing the digital sonar from slowing down the ping speed as it automatically searches for and tracks the bottom. The default setting is off, and this should fit most freshwater fishing situations. 51

NOISE A major cause of sonar problems is electrical noise. This usually appears on the sonar's display as random patterns of dots or lines. In severe cases, it can completely cover the screen with black dots, or cause the unit to operate erratically, or not at all. To eliminate or minimize the effects of electrical noise, first try to determine the cause. With the boat at rest in the water, the first thing you should do is turn all electrical equipment on the boat off. Make sure the engine is also off. Turn your sonar on, then turn off Noise Reject [also known as the ASP feature (Advanced Signal Processing)]. Sensitivity should be set at 90-95 percent. There should be a steady bottom signal on the display. Now turn on each piece of electrical equipment on the boat and view the effect on the sonar's display. For example, turn on the bilge pump and view the sonar display for noise. If no noise is present, turn the pump off, then turn on the VHF radio and transmit. Keep doing this until all electrical equipment has been turned on, their effect on the sonar display noted, then turned off. If you find noise interference from an electrical instrument, trolling motor, pump, or radio, try to isolate the problem. You can usually reroute the sonar unit's power cable and transducer cable away from the wiring that is causing the interference. VHF radio antenna cables radiate noise when transmitting, so be certain to keep the sonar's wires away from it. You may need to route the sonar unit's power cable directly to the battery to isolate it from other wiring on the boat. If no noise displays on the sonar unit from electrical equipment, then make certain everything except the sonar unit is turned off, then start the engine. Increase the RPM with the gearshift in neutral. If noise appears on the display, the problem could be one of three things; spark plugs, alternator, or tachometer wiring. Try using resistor spark plugs, alternator filters, or routing the sonar unit's power cable away from engine wiring. Again, routing the power cable directly to the battery helps eliminate noise problems. Make certain to use the in-line fuse supplied with the unit when wiring the power cable to the battery. When no noise appears on the sonar unit after all of the above tests, then the noise source is probably cavitation. Many novices or persons with limited experience make hasty sonar installations which function perfectly in shallow water, or when the boat is at rest. In nearly all cases, the cause of the malfunction will be the location and/or angle of the transducer. The face of the transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of water at all boat speeds. Read your transducer owner's manual for the best mounting position. 57
EAGLE ELECTRONICS FULL ONE-YEAR WARRANTY
"We," "our," or "us" refers to EAGLE ELECTRONICS, a division of LEI, the manufacturer of this product. "You" or "your" refers to the first person who purchases this product as a consumer item for personal, family, or household use. We warrant this product against defects or malfunctions in materials and workmanship, and against failure to conform to this product's written specifications, all for one (1) year from the date of original purchase by you. WE MAKE NO OTHER EXPRESS WARRANTY OR REPRESENTATION OF ANY KIND WHATSOEVER CONCERNING THIS PRODUCT. Your remedies under this warranty will be available so long as you can show in a reasonable manner that any defect or malfunction in materials or workmanship, or any non-conformity with the product's written specifications, occurred within one year from the date of your original purchase, which must be substantiated by a dated sales receipt or sales slip. Any such defect, malfunction, or non-conformity which occurs within one year from your original purchase date will either be repaired without charge or be replaced with a new product identical or reasonably equivalent to this product, at our option, within a reasonable time after our receipt of the product. If such defect, malfunction, or non-conformity remains after a reasonable number of attempts to repair by us, you may elect to obtain without charge a replacement of the product or a refund for the product. THIS REPAIR, OR REPLACEMENT OR REFUND (AS JUST DESCRIBED) IS THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY AVAILABLE TO YOU AGAINST US FOR ANY DEFECT, MALFUNCTION, OR NON-CONFORMITY CONCERNING THE PRODUCT OR FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE RESULTING FROM ANY OTHER CAUSE WHATSOEVER. WE WILL NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BE LIABLE TO ANYONE FOR ANY SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL, INCIDENTAL, OR OTHER INDIRECT DAMAGE OF ANY KIND. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations or exclusions may not apply to you. This warranty does NOT apply in the following circumstances: (1) when the product has been serviced or repaired by anyone other than us; (2) when the product has been connected, installed, combined, altered, adjusted, or handled in a manner other than according to the instructions furnished with the product; (3) when any serial number has been effaced, altered, or removed; or (4) when any defect, problem, loss, or damage has resulted from any accident, misuse, negligence, or carelessness, or from any failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance in accordance with the instructions of the owner's manual for the product. We reserve the right to make changes or improvements in our products from time to time without incurring the obligation to install such improvements or changes on equipment or items previously manufactured. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which may vary from state to state. REMINDER: You must retain the sales slip or sales receipt proving the date of your original purchase in case warranty service is ever required.

EAGLE ELECTRONICS PO BOX 669, CATOOSA, OK 74015 (800) 324-1354

How to Obtain Service

in the USA:
We back your investment in quality products with quick, expert service and genuine Eagle replacement parts. If you're in the United States and you have technical, return or repair questions, please contact the Factory Customer Service Department. Before any product can be returned, you must call customer service to determine if a return is necessary. Many times, customer service can resolve your problem over the phone without sending your product to the factory. To call us, use the following toll-free number:

800-324-1354

8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Central Standard Time, M-F
Eagle Electronics may find it necessary to change or end our shipping policies, regulations, and special offers at any time. We reserve the right to do so without notice.

in Canada:

If you're in Canada and you have technical, return or repair questions, please contact the Factory Customer Service Department. Before any product can be returned, you must call customer service to determine if a return is necessary. Many times, customer service can resolve your problem over the phone without sending your product to the factory. To call us, use the following toll-free number:
905-629-1614 (not toll-free)
8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Eastern Standard Time, M-F

800-661-3983

outside Canada and the USA:
If you have technical, return or repair questions, contact the dealer in the country where you purchased your unit. To locate a dealer near you, visit our web site, www.eaglesonar.com and click on Customer Support and then click Dealer Locator.
Accessory Ordering Information for all countries
To order Eagle accessories such as power cables or transducers, please contact: 1) Your local marine dealer or consumer electronics store. Most quality dealers that handle marine electronic equipment or other consumer electronics should be able to assist you with these items. To locate an Eagle dealer near you, visit our web site, www.eaglesonar.com and look for the Dealer Locator. Or, you can consult your telephone directory for listings. 2) U.S. customers: LEI Extras Inc., PO Box 129, Catoosa, OK 74015-0129 Call 1-800-324-0045 or visit our web site www.lei-extras.com. 3) Canadian customers can write: Lowrance/Eagle Canada, 919 Matheson Blvd. E. Mississauga, Ontario L4W2R7 or fax 905-629-3118.

Shipping Information

If it becomes necessary to send a product for repair or replacement, you must first receive a return authorization number from Customer Service. Products shipped without a return authorization will not be accepted. When shipping, we recommend you do the following: 1. Always use the original shipping container and filler material the product was packed in. 2. Always insure the parcel against damage or loss during shipment. Eagle does not assume responsibility for goods lost or damaged in transit. 3. For proper testing, include a brief note with the product describing the problem. Be sure to include your name, return shipping address and a daytime telephone number.