Back-up memory:.Built-in memory stores sonar settings when unit is turned off. Languages:..11 International languages. Sonar Frequency:..83/200 kHz for FishEasy 250 DS; 50/200 kHz for SeaFinder 250 DF. Transducers:.FishEasy 250 DS: a compact Dual-Search Skimmer transducer with built-in temperature sensor is packed with the unit. SeaFinder 250 DF: a dual-frequency Skimmer transducer with built-in temperature sensor is packed with the unit. Watts:..SeaFinder 250 DS: 2,400 watts peak-to-peak; 300 watt RMS. FishEasy 250 DS: 1,500 watts peak-to-peak; 188 watts RMS. Depth capability:.SeaFinder 250 DS: 1,300 feet (396 meters) with 50 kHz. FishEasy 250 DS: to 1,000 feet (305 meters) with 83 kHz. Actual capability depends on transducer configuration and installation, bottom composition and water conditions. All sonar units typically read deeper in fresh water than in salt water. Depth display:.Continuous display. Audible alarms:.Deep/shallow/fish/battery. Automatic ranging:.Yes. Auto bottom track:.Yes. Zoom bottom track:.Yes. Surface water temp:..Yes.
NOTICE! The storage and operation temperature range for your unit is from -4 degrees to +167 degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees to +75 degrees Celsius). Extended storage or operation in temperatures higher or lower than specified will damage the liquid crystal display in your unit. This type of damage is not covered by the warranty. For more information, contact the factory's Customer Service Department; phone numbers are inside the manual's back cover.

How Sonar Works

Sonar has been around since the 1940s, so if you already know how it works, skip ahead to the next segment. But, if you have never owned a sonar fish finder, this segment will explain the under water basics. Sonar is an abbreviation for SOund NAvigation and Ranging, a technology developed during World War II for tracking enemy submarines. A sonar consists of a transmitter, transducer, receiver and display. In simple terms, here's how it finds the bottom and the fish: The transmitter emits an electrical impulse which the transducer converts into a sound wave and sends into the water. The sound frequency can not be heard by humans or fish. The sound wave strikes an object (fish, structure, bottom) and bounces back to the transducer which converts the sound into an electrical signal. The receiver amplifies this return signal, or echo, and sends it to the display where an image of the object appears on the scrolling sonar chart. The sonar's microprocessor calculates the time lapse between the transmitted signal and echo return to determine the distance to the object. The whole process repeats itself several times each second.

Dual Search & Dual Frequency
The FishEasy 250 DS is packed with a Dual Search Skimmer Transducer that can transmit at 83 kHz and 200 kHz. The SeaFinder 250 DF has a dual frequency transducer that transmits at 50kHz and 200kHz.
A new innovation, the 83 kHz frequency offers superior sonar performance at all depths from very shallow up to 1,000 ft and provides up to 120 of fishfinding coverage.

Preparations

You can install the sonar system in some other order if you prefer, but we recommend this installation sequence: Caution: You should read over this entire installation section before drilling any holes in your vessel! 1. Determine the approximate location for the sonar unit, so you can plan how and where to route the cables for the transducer and power. 4
This will help you make sure you have enough cable length for the desired configuration. 2. Determine the approximate location for the transducer and its cable route. 3. Determine the location of your battery or other power connection, along with the power cable route. 4. Install the transducer and route the transducer cable to the sonar unit. 5. Install the power cable and route it to the sonar unit. 6. Mount the sonar unit.
Section 2: Installation & Accessories
These instructions will help you install your Skimmer transducer on a transom, on a trolling motor or inside a hull. Please read all instructions before proceeding with any installation. Your Skimmer transducer typically comes packaged with a one-piece stainless steel bracket for mounting it to the transom of your boat. The optional trolling motor mount uses a one-piece plastic bracket with an adjustable strap. These are "kick-up" mounting brackets. They help prevent damage if the transducer strikes an object while the boat is moving. If the transducer does "kick-up," the bracket can easily be pushed back into place without tools. Read these instructions carefully before attempting the installation. Determine which of the installation methods is right for your boat. Remember, the transducer installation is the most critical part of a sonar installation. Recommended Tools and Supplies If you prefer the option of routing the cable through the transom, you will need a 5/8" drill bit. The following installation types also call for these recommended tools and required supplies (supplies are not included):

Transom installation

Tools include: two adjustable wrenches, drill, #29 (0.136") drill bit, flathead screwdriver. Supplies: high quality, marine grade above- or belowwaterline sealant compound.
Trolling motor installations
Tools: two adjustable wrenches, flat-head screwdriver. Supplies: plastic cable ties. 7
Shoot-through hull installations
Tools: these will vary depending on your hull's composition. Consult your boat dealer or manufacturer. Supplies: 100 grit sandpaper, good quality epoxy adhesive. Selecting a Transducer Location 1. The transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of water at all times. If the transducer is to be mounted inside the hull, then the chosen location must be in the water at all times. If the transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of water, interference caused by bubbles and turbulence will show on the sonar's display in the form of random lines or dots whenever the boat is moving. NOTE: Some aluminum boats with strakes or ribs on the outside of the hull create large amounts of turbulence at high speed. These boats typically have large outboard motors capable of propelling the boat at speeds faster than 35 mph. Typically, a good location on aluminum boats is between the ribs closest to the engine. 2. The transducer should be installed with its face pointing straight down, if possible. 3. If the transducer is mounted on the transom, make sure it doesn't interfere with the trailer or hauling of the boat. Also, don't mount it closer than approximately one foot from the engine's lower unit. This will prevent cavitation (bubble) interference with propeller operation. 4. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps and aerators can be displayed on the sonar's screen. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires.
CAUTION: Clamp the transducer cable to transom near the transducer. This will help prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed. Good location
Poor location Good location Good location Poor angle Good and poor transducer locations.
How low should you go? For most situations, you should install your Skimmer transducer so that its centerline is level with the bottom of the boat hull. This will usually give you the best combination of smooth water flow and protection from bangs and bumps.

Align plastic ratchets in bracket.
2. Aligning the transducer on the transom. Slide the transducer between the two ratchets. Temporarily slide the bolt though the transducer assembly and hold it against the transom. Looking at the transducer from the side, check to see if it will adjust so that its face is parallel to the ground. If it does, then the "A" position is correct for your hull. 11
If the transducer's face isn't parallel with the ground, remove the transducer and ratchets from the bracket. Place the ratchets into the holes in the bracket with the letter "B" aligned with the dot stamped in the bracket. Reassemble the transducer and bracket and place them against the transom. Again, check to see if you can move the transducer so it's parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3. If it doesn't, repeat step 2, but use a different alignment letter until you can place the transducer on the transom correctly.

Ratchets

Insert bolt and check transducer position on transom.
3. Assembling the transducer. Once you determine the correct position for the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the following figure. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.

Metal washer

Rubber washers Bolt
Assemble transducer and bracket.
4. Drilling mounting holes. Hold the transducer and bracket assembly against the transom. The transducer should be roughly parallel to the ground. The transducer's centerline should be in line with the bottom of the hull. Don't let the bracket extend below the hull! Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You will drill one hole in the center of each slot. Drill the holes using the #29 bit (for the #10 screws).

Transom Transom

Position transducer mount on transom and mark mounting holes. Side view (left) and shown from above (right).
5. Attaching transducer to transom. Remove the transducer from the bracket and re-assemble it with the cable passing through the bracket over the bolt as shown in the following figures. 13

Route cable over bolt and through bracket. Side view (left) and shown from above (right).
Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the transducer up or down until it's aligned properly with the bottom of the hull as shown in the preceding and following figures. Tighten the bracket's mounting screws, sealing them with the sealant compound. Adjust the transducer so that it's parallel to the ground and tighten the nut until it touches the outer washer, then add 1/4 turn. Don't over tighten the lock nut! If you do, the transducer won't "kick-up" if it strikes an object in the water.

Bottom of hull

Flat-bottom hull Deep-"vee" hull Align transducer centerline with hull bottom and attach to transom.
6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit. Make sure to leave some slack in the cable at the transducer. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the boat. 14
Electrical noise from the engine's wiring, bilge pumps, VHF radio wires and cables, and aerators can be picked up by the sonar. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires. WARNING: Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the transducer. This can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed. If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through, the required hole size is 5/8". Caution: If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the mounting screws. 7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the transducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water, hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull. Trolling Motor Bracket Installation 1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer. The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.
Bolt Internal tooth washer Nut TMB-S bracket
Flat washer Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.
2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the water. Tighten the strap securely. 3. Route the transducer cable alongside the trolling motor shaft. Use plastic ties (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the motor to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is ready for use.
Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.
Transducer Orientation and Fish Arches If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest in the water or at slow trolling speeds.

Partial fish arches

Transducer aimed too far back
Transducer aimed too far forward
Full fish arch Proper transducer angle Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.
If the arch slopes up but not back down then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down and needs to be raised. NOTE: Periodically wash the transducer's face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity or may even prevent operation.
Shoot-Thru-Hull Preparation
Hulls With Flotation Materials
The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials (such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if the material is removed from the chosen area. See the figure below. WARNING: Do not remove any material from your inner hull unless you know the hull's composition. Careless grinding or cutting on your hull can result in damage that could sink your boat. Contact your boat dealer or manufacturer to confirm your hull specifications.
Fill with Fill with resin Flotation material Inner hull

Epoxy to hull first

Outer hull Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.
Some (but not all) manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass, then a core of balsa wood, finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass. Removing the inner layer of fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes the outer layer of fiberglass. The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures, the hull is watertight and structurally sound. Remember, the sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. Any air bubbles in the fiberglass or the epoxy will reduce or eliminate the sonar signals. 18
To choose the proper location for shoot-thru-hull mounting, follow these testing procedures. You may need a helper to complete these steps. 1. Anchor the boat in about 30 feet of water. Add a little water to the sump of the boat. Plug the transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on, then hold the transducer over the side of the boat in the water. Adjust the sensitivity and range controls until a second bottom echo is seen on the display. You will need to turn off Auto Sensitivity, Auto Depth Range and ASP. Try a range setting that is two to three times the water depth. The harder (more rocky) the bottom, the easier it will be to get a second bottom signal. Do not touch the controls once they have been set.

True bottom

Second bottom

Manual range setting

Example of a second bottom signal. Unit is in 30 feet of water, with range set at 80 feet and sensitivity set to 87 percent
2. Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in the sump of the boat, face down. Notice how the signal strength decreases. The second bottom signal will probably disappear and the bottom signal intensity will likely decrease.
3. Now move the transducer around to find the best location with the strongest possible bottom signal. If you find a spot with an acceptable bottom signal, mark the location and move on to step 4. If you can not get an acceptable bottom signal, try turning up the sensitivity by three or five keystrokes and then move the transducer around once more. If you find a spot that works, mark it and move on to step 4. If you have to turn up sensitivity by more than five keystrokes to get a good signal, the transducer should be mounted on the outside of the hull. This is especially true if you have to turn sensitivity all the way up to get a decent bottom signal. 4. Most people can get good results by following steps 1 through 3, so this step is optional. If you want to make an extra effort to be absolutely sure that your selected location will work under all conditions, make a test run with the boat on plane and observe the bottom signal. You will need to figure some way to prop the transducer into position while you make your test run. A brick or two might be sufficient to hold it in place. 5. When you are satisfied with a location, mark it and proceed with the installation.
Transducer location (high speed) Transducer location (trolling speed)
Shoot-thru-hull transducer locations for high speed or trolling speed operation.
Shoot-thru-hull Installation 1. Make sure the area is clean, dry and free of oil or grease, then sand both the inside surface of the hull and the face of the transducer with 100 grit sandpaper. The sanded hull area should be about 1-1/2 times the diameter of the transducer. The surface of the hull must be flat so the entire transducer face is in contact with the hull prior to bonding. After sanding, clean the hull and transducer with rubbing alcohol to remove any sanding debris.

Spread epoxy here

Sand this surface Orient the Skimmer with the nose facing the bow of the boat. To bow
Epoxy transducer to hull.
WARNING: Use only the epoxy available from LEI. It has been formulated to work with these installation procedures. Other epoxy types may be too thin or may not cure to the right consistency for optimum transducer performance. 2. The epoxy consists of the epoxy itself and a hardener. Remove the two compounds from the package and place them on the paper plate. 21
Thoroughly stir the two compounds together until the mixture has a uniform color and consistency. Do not mix too fast or bubbles will form in the epoxy. After mixing, you have 20 minutes to complete the installation before the epoxy becomes unworkable. Spread a thin layer of epoxy (about 1/16" or 1.5 mm thick) on the face of the transducer as shown in the previous figure. Make sure there are no air pockets in the epoxy layer! Then, apply the remaining epoxy to the sanded area on the hull. 3. Press the transducer into the epoxy, twisting and turning it to force any air bubbles out from under the transducer face. Stop pressing when you bottom out on the hull. When you are finished, the face of the transducer should be parallel with the hull, with a minimum amount of epoxy between the hull and transducer. 4. Apply a weight, such as a brick, to hold the transducer in place while the epoxy cures. Be careful not to bump the transducer while the epoxy is wet. Leave the weight in place for a minimum of three hours. Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours before moving the boat. 5. After the epoxy has cured, route the cable to the sonar unit. Power and Cable Connections The unit works from a 12-volt battery system. For the best results, attach the power cable directly to the battery. You can attach the power cable to an accessory or power buss, however you may have problems with electrical interference. Therefore, it's safer to go ahead and attach the power cable directly to the battery. CAUTION: When using the unit in a saltwater environment, we strongly recommend that you shut off the power supply to the power cable when the unit is not in use. When the unit is turned off but still connected to a power supply, electrolysis can occur in the power cable plug. This may result in corrosion of the plug body along with the electrical contacts in the cable and the unit's power socket. 22
In saltwater environments we recommend you connect the power cable to the auxiliary power switch included in most boat designs. If that results in electrical interference, or if such a switch is not available, we recommend connecting direct to the battery and installing an inline switch. This will let you shut off power to the power cable when the unit is not in use. When you are not using the unit, you should always shut off power to the power cable, especially when the power cable is disconnected from the unit.

To unit Optional power off switch for saltwater installations
Black wire 12 volt battery Red wire with 3 amp fuse
Power and transducer connections for sonar units (direct battery connection shown).
WARNING: Do not use this product without a 3-amp fuse wired into the power cable! Failure to use a 3-amp fuse will void your warranty. This product must be independently fused with the enclosed 3-amp fuse (or equivalent), even if you connect to a fused accessory or power buss. If a malfunction happens inside the unit, extensive damage can occur if the enclosed fuse is not used. As with all electrical devices this unit could be damaged to a point that it is unrepairable and could even cause harm to the user when not properly fused. 23
If possible, keep the power cable away from other boat wiring, especially the engine's wires. This will provide the best isolation from electrical noise. If the cable is not long enough, splice #18 gauge wire onto it. The power cable has two wires, red and black. Red is the positive lead, black is negative or ground. Make sure to attach the in-line fuse holder to the red lead as close to the power source as possible. If you have to extend the power cable to the battery or power buss, attach one end of the fuse holder directly to the battery or power buss. This will protect both the unit and the power cable in the event of a short. It uses a 3-amp fuse. This unit has reverse polarity protection. No damage will occur if the power wires are reversed. However, the unit will not work until the wires are attached correctly. Mounting The Sonar Unit: In-Dash or Bracket You can install the sonar unit on the top of a dash with the supplied bracket. It can also be installed in the dash with an optional dashmounting kit. The FM-5 mount kit will work for both the FishEasy 250 DS and SeaFinder 250 DF. In-Dash Installation The following figure shows dimensions for in-dash mounting. The indash adapter kit includes a template for cutting the mounting hole and complete installation directions on instruction sheet 988-0147-43. NOTE: Your unit needs only one cable, but some of the other products covered by the FM-5 instruction sheet use more. When installing your unit, use the instructions for the transducer cable and ignore references to any others.

146.5 [5.76]

Bait school

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fish arches Fig. 3 Fig. 4
These figures show results of different sensitivity levels on the same location. Fig. 1: Sensitivity at 85 percent, determined by Auto Sensitivity. Typical of full auto mode. Fig. 2: Sensitivity set at 71 percent. Fig. 3: Sensitivity set at 47 percent. Fig. 4: Sensitivity set at 90 percent.

Grayline

Grayline lets you distinguish between strong and weak echoes. It allows you to tell the difference between a hard and soft bottom. For example, a soft, muddy or weedy bottom returns a weaker signal which is shown with a narrow line or no gray line at all. A hard surface returns a strong signal, which will be displayed as a wide gray line. 40

Grayline scroll bar.

If you have two signals of equal size, one with gray and the other without, then the target with gray is the stronger signal. This helps distinguish weeds from trees and fish from structure.

Thin or no Grayline

Wider Grayline
A small amount of Grayline indicates a soft bottom (left), probably sand or mud. More Grayline indicates a harder, rocky bottom (right).
Grayline is adjustable. Since Grayline shows the difference between strong and weak signals, adjusting the sensitivity may also require a different Grayline level. 41
The default level of Grayline is usually adequate for most conditions. Experiment with the unit to find the Grayline setting best for you. To change the Grayline level, repeatedly press MENU until the GRAYLINE scroll bar appears. Press to increase Grayline, to decrease it. The effects of the Grayline adjustment will be shown by echoes on the screen. If you reach the maximum or minimum level, a tone will sound. Press PWR to clear the menu.

Chart Speed

The speed at which echoes scroll across the screen is called the chart speed. The default for this unit is "max" (100 percent). We recommend you leave the scroll speed setting there for most fishing conditions.

Your sonar unit's microcomputer is sophisticated, but it can be fooled. It can not distinguish between fish and other suspended objects such as trotlines, turtles, submerged floats, air bubbles, etc. Individual tree limbs extending outward from a group of limbs are the hardest objects for the Fish I.D. feature to distinguish from fish.

Fish arches

Fish I.D. symbols
Underwater scene in normal fish arch mode (left). Fish I.D. menu with the feature turned on (right).
To see what is under your boat in maximum detail, we recommend you turn off Fish I.D. and begin learning to interpret fish arches. You may see Fish I.D. symbols on the screen when actually, there are no fish. The reverse is also true Fish I.D. can actually miss fish that are present. Does that mean Fish I.D. is broken? No the feature is interpreting sonar returns in a specific way to help take some of the work out of reading the screen. Remember: Fish I.D. is one of the many tools we provide so you can analyze your sonar returns for maximum fish finding information. This and other features can help you "see" beneath the boat under varied water and fishing conditions. Practice with the unit with the Fish I.D. mode on and off to become more skilled at interpreting sonar returns. Fish I.D. is most handy when you are in another part of the boat or performing some task that prevents you from watching the sonar screen. 45
Then, you can turn on Fish I.D. and the audible fish alarm. When that lunker swims under your boat, you will hear it! Fish I.D. can also be useful when you want to screen out some of the sonar detail gathered by your unit. For example, it can help cut through the clutter of suspended bubbles caused by wave action or boat wakes. To turn Fish I.D. on or off, repeatedly press MENU until the FISH ID menu appears. Press to select ON or OFF, then press PWR to clear the menu from the screen.

FishTrack

The FishTrack feature shows the depth of a fish symbol when it appears on the display. To turn it on, repeatedly press MENU until the FISH ID menu appears. Press to select TRACK ON, then press PWR. To turn it off, repeat those steps, then press to select OFF. If you want to turn off FishTrack, but leave Fish I.D. on, press to select ON, then press PWR. Remember, Fish I.D. must be on to use the FishTrack feature.
Fish I.D. symbols showing FishTrack depth indicator

Depth Display

Depth may be displayed on the screen in a small, medium or large size or can be turned off completely. To display Depth: Repeatedly press MENU until the DEPTH menu appears. Use to select the size of the depth display. Press PWR to clear the menu.
Depth menu with Depth display turned off (left). Depth display set to Medium (right).

Temperature Display

Temperature may be displayed on the screen in a small or medium size or can be turned off completely.
Temperature menu (left). Temperature display set to small size (right).
To display Temperature: Repeatedly press MENU until the TEMPERATURE menu appears. Use to select the size of the temperature display. Press PWR to clear the menu.
Voltage menu with the voltage display turned off (left) and with voltage set to a small display size (right).

Voltage

The Voltage menu allows you to display battery voltage on the screen in a small or medium size or can be turned off completely. To display voltage: Repeatedly press MENU until the VOLTAGE menu appears. Use to select the size of the voltage display. Press PWR to clear the menu.
The Units menu allows you to switch units of measure between Feet and Fahrenheit and Meters and Celsius. To switch units of measure, repeatedly press MENU until the Units menu appears on the screen. Use to select the desired unit of measure FEET or METERS. Press PWR to clear the menu from the screen.
Units set to Feet, which displays temperature in Fahrenheit (left). Units set to Meters, which shows the temperature in Celsius. (right)

Backlight

The display's backlight allows the unit to be used at night. To turn the backlight on or off, repeatedly press MENU until the BACKLIGHT menu 54
appears. Press to turn on the backlight or to turn it off. Press PWR to clear the backlight menu from the display.
Backlight turned on (left). Contrast scroll bar (right).

Contrast

The contrast of the unit's display may be adjusted to suit different lighting conditions. It will help you see the screen from different angles or at various times of the day. To adjust the contrast, repeatedly press MENU until the CONTRAST scroll bar appears. To decrease screen contrast, press or to increase the level of contrast, press. If you reach the maximum or minimum contrast level, a tone will sound. Press the PWR key to clear the menu.

Simulator

This unit has a built-in simulator that shows simulated sonar returns with fish signals. This lets you practice with the unit as if you were on the water. All the unit's functions and features are usable when operating in simulator mode. A message appears occasionally to remind you the simulator is on. To use the simulator, repeatedly press MENU until the SIMULATOR menu appears. Press to turn on the simulator or press to turn it off. 55