SEWING GUIDE

Dear User, The Instruction Booklet shows you how to operate your Elna. This Sewing Guide contains practical hints for easy sewing. It will help you to get the best out of your Elna and spend many happy hours with it. For an: Elna EC (Economic) Elna Plana EC (Economic) Elna ZZ (Zig Zag) Elna Plana ZZ (Zig Zag) Elna SP (Special) Elina Plana SP (Special) Elna ST (Star) Elna Plana ST (Star) Elna SU (Super) Elina Plana SU (Super) Other types of sewing and special accessories If you want to look something up in a hurry, consult the Index. Model No. 11 Model No. 13 Model No. 21 Model No. 23 Model No. 31 Model No. 33 Model No. 41 Model No. 43 Model No. 62 Model No. 64 Consult pages

1- 34 1- 38

50- 57 58-60
Although far from being exhaustive, the Guide gives you a good idea of the wide range of possibilities for practical and decorative sewing that are available to you, either by using the standard equipment of your machine, or by acquiring one of the additional extra accessories. Remember to inquire regularly at Etna shops and you will constantly make interesting discoveries.

Thread and Needle

It is preferable to use good quality dull or mercerized thread, For darning, use fine left-twist thread, because it is stronger. Remember that a dry thread becomes brittle. The best sewing machine will give poor results with a bad needle. A golden rule: Select the thread according to the type of work and material, and the needle according to the thread: darning, sewing or embroidery thread depending on the fineness, durability or appearance desired for the work in hand. For synthetic (nylon), elastic or metallic thread, it is usually best to reduce the upper tension. First get used to simple sewing, and you will get more out of other Elna possibilities later on. The type of thread or needle size will be referred to subsequently only in special cases.

Adjustments

To simplify the explanations, the sewing feet and adjustments are shown by the following symbols (fig. 1-2) Stitch selector and stitch number (1)
Elna-disc No. (2) Stitch width (3) Stitch length (4) Sewing foot

: 1 Example:

Embroidery/buttonhole foot Darning foot

Cith 1

<1,

o1.1 zigzag stitch

Explanation: Sewing foot Selector at Stitch width 2 to 3 Stitch length 1 to 14

/ThA Q152 X

Explanation: Embroidery/buttonhole foot Selector at A Etna-disc 152 Stitch width 4 Stitch length A N.B.: Obviously, with the Elna EC machine only the straight stitch, and with the Elna ZZ machine only the straight stitch and zigzag stitch are used.

3 EC'ZZ*SP-ST SU

Materials Conan Sheer Used (darning) Ordinary Medium Weight Thick Weave & HoavV Sheets 120-100 D20ning 100-60' 80-40'
Thmads l Synhetic Sik Fibres Sowing Darning Sewing Sewing Sowing Darning Sewing Sawing eig
| Ho~~~~~~~~Nedle Sizes Sysem 10705 H 1tI 60-70 -10

01 -T04110

Sewing
Sizes may change depending cn the countr. Or the system 705

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Universal Thread Tensions
Universal tensions enable you to do most of your sewing without changing the tension,.e. Lower Tension Red number 1 faces the lever-fig. 3 Upper Tension Red number 5 faces guide mark I"-fig. 4. If the upper tension needs to be altered (nylon or metallic thread, special sewing, etc), turn the tension dial.
Correct tension: the threads are locked properly between the two layers of material-fig. 5. Upper tension too strong: the lower thread is visible on top of the material, Reduce the tension by turning the knob to between 5 and 1 (thinner lines)-fig. 6. Upper tension too weak: the upper thread is visible underneath the material. Increase the tension by turning the knob to between 5 and 9 (thicker lines)-fig. 7. If the lower tension needs altering (nylon or elastic, thread, hem-stitching, etc.), turn the graduated screw with the screwdriver. The graduation marks allow you to revert easily to the universal tension-fig. 3. If you try out the tensions for a special sewing job, use a double thickness of material (not a single one), as will be the case when you actually start sewing.

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Pages 6 to 11 deal mainly with straight sewing and apply to all Elna sewing machines.

Straight Sewing - fig. 8

This is generally no problem, but remember to adapt your stitch length to the type of material. Fine material; fairly short stitches. Medium or heavy material longer stitches. Only guide the work, without holding it back or pulling it.
The stitches are too long

fig. 9

Stitch lengths between 2 and 3, for example, may cause fine material to gather. Reduce the stitch length to between 1 and 1%' and your sewing will be correct.

6 EREEC-ZZ-SP.ST-SU

Thicknesses - fig. 10
M X _ (0 2-4 necessary, it is possible to lift the foot in order to place especially 11 thick pieces of work underneath it. Do not forget to lower the foot lever again, otherwise your sewing will not be satisfactory.

fig 11lr

For sewing coarse pleats or across seams
Guide the work as shown in the illustration, It will slide easily under the foot.
Gathering with Elastic Threadfig. 12-13-14

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Wind elastic thread (Lastex) onto the bobbin and thread it into
the lower tension. - fig. 12.
The upper thread should be a good quality sewing or embroidery thread. Make a trial. Trho gathers will be more pronounced with a long stitch (if necessary, increase the upper tension). The material needed will be about twice as long as the finished
Itis possible to sew two, three or more rows of gathers. This method can also be used for smocking. If necessary, a sheet of paper may be placed on the material to hold it in place during sewing. Tear off the paper after sewing. Wrong side

- fig.

Right side

fig. 14

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Gathering

fig 15
When gathering a fine or medium material you can make use of the stitch length and, if necessary, of the tensions. Set the maximum stitch length 4 and a very weak upper tension. Sew two parallel rows of stitches, one next to the other. Knot the threads at one end and pull the two lower threads to form the gathers. This makes it easy to distribute the gathers on the threads. to give roundness to a sleeve, for example. For more than just occasional gathering jobs, use the gathering foot - see pages 10-11.

Sewing Net Curtains

fig. 16-17
Theo side or bottom hems can be sewn with straight stitching, in case of need, Make sure thie meshes of the cuirtain match (if the pattern allows) -fig. 16: wrong, fig. 17: right. Pin or baste, Since it is not always easy to follow the straight in some net curtains, it is a good idea to hold the material behind and in front of the foot. if necessary, reduce the upper tension (see pages 48-49),

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Zip Fasteners - fig. 21
Zipper foot M 0 (0 1-4 Needle position wheel in the center. The zipper foot can be moved to the left or the right of the needle. This makes it possible to sew in the zip fastener without turning the work, by sewing first on one side of the foot and then on the other. Begin with the fastener zipped up, then, when you reach the middle, leave the needle in and open the zip. This makes it easier to get past the clasp of the zip fastener. Some other uses for extra accessories that can be acquired - see also pages 52-57.

Gathering foot

fig. - 18-20

Kg (3 3-4

For more than just occasional gathering jobs with fine or fairly fine material, it is preferable to use the gathering foot, Fig. 18 - Place the material to be gathered underneath the gathering foot, as for ordinary sewing. The gathers will become more pronounced if the upper tension is increased and the stitches are lengthened, Fig. 19-20 - To gather and sew on a flounce at the same time, place it underneath the foot from the left. Then insert the top piece of material from the left, into the side slot of the foot, being careful to keep it flat. Insert the needle and sew a few stitches while holding back the ends of the threads. Guide both pieces of material at the same time while sewing. The top piece of material must be fed regularly into the foot and should not be held back or the stitches will be uneven. Do not hold back the flounce. The material for the flounce must be longer than the main piece of material. N B,: To sew further from the edge, the needle should be decentered towards the left.
Pages 12-22 deal mainly with zigzag sewing with Elna ZZ, SP. ST and SUJ

Overcasting - fig. 22-23

_5 ' 1 C 2-4
Fig. 22 - Simply proceed as shown in the illustration. In the case of a medium or thick material. use stitch width 4, lengtih 1as-2 and guide the material along the slot in the foot.
24 Fig. 23 -A hint for fine mnaterials: place the edge of the material underneath the middle of the sewing foot and guide it according to the guide mark engraved on the foot. Stitch width 4, length 1II-2. The needle will then stitch over the edge of the material to the right, and the result will be neat overcasting withi a finished width of 2 mm,

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Shell Stitch

cir~ \

fig. 31
Thsstitch is particularly suited for the armholes and necklines of jersey underwear. Proceed as in the illustration, taking care to sew one stitch on the material and the next just off the edge. and so on.

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Blind Stitch

fig. 32
Place the material wrong side up and folded as shown in-Ahe illustration. Sew, making sure that the left stitch catches only one thread of the fold. After sewing, unfold the material and press. If this stitch is used often, it is preferable to use the special foot with a guide. See extra accessories, page 52-57a

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Sewing on Lace - fig. 33
Place the lace about X to 1 cm ('I. to 'A inch) from the edge of the material. Sew and then cut away the excess material close to the seam.
For Lace without a Selvedge or for Insertions - fig. 34-35.F ' rrW
Place the lace on the material, right sides togethier - fig. 34. Sew with straight stitches about 1 cm (A inch) from the edge. Then open out so that the seani can he folded underneath and finish off with zigzag stitches, stitch widthy 2, stitch length 1fig, 35.

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Satin Stitch , fBX 1

Fig. 36-37

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Embroidery or darning thread. Fig. 36 - A beautiful satin stitch can be obtained by graduafhy reducing the stitch length between 3. and 'h. Fine or soft material should be reinforced by placing paper underneath. To make sure that the satin stitch is suitable for the work (tablecloths, sheets, etc.), first try it out on an identical piece of material. To obtain even stitching, pay attention to the following details

<38 37

* Never hold back the work, simply guide it. * When sewing a large or heavy piece of material, make sure that its weight does not slow down the rate of feed. If necessary, hold up the material, in order to feed it evenly under the foot, Fig. 37 - When sewing a hem, sew the satin stitch on top of the hem. at the inner edge, so that one side of the satin stitch will be sewn flush with the inside of the hem. The result will be more attractive.

Monograms - fig.

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38-39-40-41

(0 IAY
Beautiful monograms can be sewn with the satin stitch, First draw the monogram. Depending on the material. either reinforce

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it with a piece of paper underneath, or stretch it in an embroidery hoop. You do not need to be particularly skilled for achieving good results with straight letters. You can make the letters stand out by sewing over the original stitching once or twice with the same stitch width. Fig. 39 - Round letters need more practice. Make the curves by turning the material gently each time the needle pierces the outside of the curve. See also page 36.

Tapered Satin Stitch

g1 X 1-4-1

- fig. 40

Pull out and turn the stitch width lever to the ' back and * forth 'position ' * b. The width of the satin stitch can thus be varied by hand. so that a monogram with a down- and upstroke effect is obtained. Suitable for monograms and ornamental designs. If necessary stretch the material in an embroidery hoop or reinforce it with a paper backing. The paper is removed after sewing.

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Small Monogramns

fig. 41

By using the darning foot and plate, it is easier to follow the curves of small monograms (to mark linen, for example), Practise with a few trial monograms first. Run the machine at a fast speed and guide the material slowly. If necessary, stretch the material in an embroidery hoop. It is obvious that such monograms require a certain amount of practice.

Fringes

X Gh 21

fig. 42

a3 2-4 IA%,,X
For tablecloths, tray cloths, scarves, etc. Sew a satin stitch 2 to 3 cm (about 1 inch) from the edge of the material and then pull out the threads on the outside. That's all there is to it. If you want to make it look even nicer, sew a wider or a tapered satin stitch parallel to the first.
Designs for Tablecloths - fig. 43
For this lovely design, sew the two straight portions with a satin stitch, stitch width 4. stitch length %24%, use the and tapered satin stitch for the flowers. The stems are sewn with a small satin stitch, stitch width 1-2.

ZZ-SP-ST-SU

Appliqu6 Work - fig. 44-45
This is fun to do. Sew the outline of the appliqu4 drawing with straight or small zigzag stitches, stitch width 1, stitch length 1. Then cut away the excess material close to the stitching.
Finish by sewing a sai tthoe h des of the appliqu4, stitch width as required. In this kind of work, the choice of pattern and colour is the main thing. Appliqu6s look good on aprons, pockets, tablecloths, curtains. cushions, et.
FinshyStlChove th edes f te apl214 a ati swin

Buttons - fig. 46

Set the stitch length at ' 0 -and adjust the stitch width, so that the needle passes through the eyes of the button. Sew 6 to 8 stitches. Pull the thread through underneath and knot. If you have to sew on buttons very often, you will find the button foot to be a great help (see extra accessories, pages 54-57).
Reinforced Buttonhole - fig. 47
, 2cs T 1 M 2-4 () Position the needle to the left. Thread a soft piece of embroidery cord under the left groove in the foot. Proceed as for ordinary buttonholes. Finish by pulling the two ends of the cord and cutting close to the buttonhole.
Repairing Buttonholes - fig. 48

e : 2-3 (C %

Position the needle to the left, Sew over the frayed edges whh a fairly loose satin stitch. If the material is out of shape, reinforce it underneath with paper.

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Pages 23 to 34 mainly concern other stitches obtained with the Selector on Elna SP - ST - SU.

Overcasting

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Fine darning or embroidery thread. Place the wvork as shown in the illustration. For medium or thick material, overcast with stitch width 4 and guide the edge of the material along the slot in the foot This overcasting even stands up to repeated washing and keeps the material flat.

SP ST SU

Patching - fig. 50
Fine darning thread. Place the patch over the damaged part. Sew around the edge of the patch with the overcasting stitch. Then cut away the damaged part close to the stitching. With this simple method, the patch can be sewn on in one operation and there are no excess thicknesses or felled seams.

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Patching Jersey or Stretch Fabrics

fig. 51

Proceed as above, but it is preferable to make the patch circular and to sew it on 1cm (about ' inch) from the edge. Then cut away the edge and the damaged part,

Jersey Hem

Only one fold is made and sewn the same as the patch, i.e. 1 cm (', inch) from the edge, which is then cut away close to the stitching.
Instant Darning - fig. 52-53
If you use a fine darning thread of the righit shade. a tear or ladder ' in jersey can be repaired quickly, and the darn will be almost invisible. With very worn or frayed material, place a piece of gauze underneath. Sew once down the middle of the tear, drawing the edges as close together as possible. Then sew again on either side, making sure that the needle pierces the central stitching.

Edge-to-Edge Sawing

fig. 54
Place two selvedges edge to edge and sew. This is useful for turning worn sheets 'sides to middlet Excess thicknesses are avoided and the stitches get lost in the material.
Sewing on an Elastic - fig. 55
_S h4 2-4 (2)1 Place the elastic on the work as shown in the illustration. In this way there is no need to pull the elastic to stretch it, but be sure to sew slowly, feeding enough material into the foot to form gathers. The seam will remain supple and easy to stretch. The overcasting stitch gives added strength to garments that have to stretch easily (jersey underwear, for example).
sos Blind Stitch - fig. 56

0J o _ 6 [ (1-4 (C3 1-4

Place the material wrong side up. folded as shown in the illustration, Sew, making sure that the side stitches catch only one thread in the fold of material. After sewing, unfold the work and press. If you use this stitch often, the special foot with a guide is recommended. See extra accessories, page 52-57. See also elastic blind stitch. page 32.

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Shell Stitch - fig. 57

r&6

This stitch is usually sewn on bias material. Each sixth side stitch must be sewn off the edge of the material Then either sew on or insert the bias depending on the work (flounces, etc armholes, underwear, e.
Other Uses for Blind Stitch
Lace sewn onto underwear with an appliqu6d ribbon, held in place by two rows of blind stitchi sewn opposite each other. In this way the blind stitch becomes attractive ornamental stitchiing.

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Sewing and Overcasting with Multistretch Stitch - fig. 59

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This stitch is ideal for sewing and overcasting at the same time, especially when sewing and assembling stretch fabrics (jesey, loosely knitted fabrics) or woollens. Place the work under the foot and sew, so that the stitches to the right fall just off the edge of the material. The result will be a straight seam coupled with a well-finished overcast. Uses: for assembling garments, sewing up sleeves and trousers sewing necklines, etc.

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When making up loosely knitted fabrics (jumpers, cardigans, etc.), make sure that the stitches pass easily under the foot. The seam is stretchable and the knitted fabric will not be pulled out of shape, For shoulders and side-seams which ought not to stretch or lose their shape, sew simultaneously a woollen thread placed flat under the foot in the left slot; fasten the woollen thread at both ends.

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Sewing on Borders - fig. 61-62 ~5

5 gi3 4

For sewing borders around armholes, necklines, cuffs, the bottom of jumpers. etc. The stitch is mainly used with jersey or loosely knitted fabrics. Place the border on the material as shown in the illustration. Make sure that the stitches on the right fall off the edge of the material. The garment will retain its shape, if an elastic thread (Lastex) is sewn at the same time, placed flat under the foot in the left slot.
Sewing Stretch Towelling -fig. 63

113 Bp

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Such fabrics are sewn in the same way as jersey and ordinary stretch fabrics. But since the material stretches so easily, it is a good idea in some cases (when sewing side-seams, sleeves,
cuffs, necklines, etc.) to make sure the garment retains its
shape by simultaneously sewing an elastic thread placed flat under the foot in the left slot. The material is especially suitable for baby outfits and hooded wraps, pyjamas, tracksuits, T-shirts, etc. Garments will stretch (when put on) and then go back to their original shape each time.
Edge-on-Edge Sewing-fig. 64

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which will be subject to a lot of wear.
Edge-on-edge sewing may be required for garments or objects
With the multistretch stitch, the seams will retain their shape and remain perfectly elastic. Sew first one edge and then the other, as shown in the illustration. To give the stitching an attractive appearance, sew the stitches to the right flush with the edge and the stitches to the left well inside the edge.

Reinforcing

*-t~5 rTh

fig. 65

If necessary, use the roller foot - see extra accessories, page 523 Sew along the edge of the patch (leather, plastic, etc.). The stitches to the right should be sewn into the garment flush with the patch and the stitches to the left should be sewn into the patch. The result will stand up to a lot of wear and the stitching lok eyatrcie Practical for sing o he o knees, shoulder, eb e1

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Handkerchief Borders - fig. 66-67
The multistretch stitch is just the thing for edging fine materials, handkerchiefs, scarves, flounces, etc. Fold the edge once, to a width of 1 cm (I/ inch). Sew, letting the stitches to the right be made off the material, flush with the edge. Then cut away the excess material along the seam. The result will be excellent. This method avoids the use of hems or rolled hems and is quickly done.

Scalloped Edges for Collars, Cuffs and Children's Clothes - fig. 68-69

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To decorate the edges of collars, cuffs or children's clothes, you can embroider a small piped scallop. After sewing as usual, finish off with a multistretch stitch, the stitches to the right being formed off the material, and those to the left just catching the edge of the garment. The effect is most attractive.
Elastic Blind Stitch - fig. 70

,=E ] ~2 E g2-4 i 31-2

For invisible hems. Place the material wrong side up. folded as in the illustration (a). Make sure that only the wide zigzag just catches the fold of the material. After sewing, open out and press. For woollens, stretch fabrics and jersey, it is not necessary to fold the hem twice. Leave it flat, as shown in the illustration (b), then overcast and sew the blind hem in a single operation. The stitching will remain easy to stretch. If you have to sew blind hems very often, you will find the special blind stitch foot extremely useful - see extra accessories, page 52.

Edging Stitch - fig. 71

The edging stitch is very useful. It is suitable for sewing borders on tablecloths, serviettes and small covers and also for applique work and reinforcing. If necessary, the stitching can be raised or the material held in shape by sewing one or two threads of pearl cotton, at the same time, which are placed flat under the foot in the right and left grooves. The stitch is also useful for repairing buttonholes. Proceed in the same way as with the zigzag stitch, as shown on page 22.

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72~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I
Elastic Shell Stitch - fig. 72

tizj2 a 4

Place the work as shown in the illustration and sew with the wide zigzag being stitched beyond the edge of the material. This stitch can be sewn directly onto the material, in the case of armholes or necklines in jersey underwear, for example, Otherwise, it can be sewn on a strip of bias material or other soft fabric, which is inserted afterwards.
Insertion of a Shell Hem - fig. 73
Gi>J2 X4 (A-%Y Place the work as shown in the illustration, making sure that the edging stitch closely follows the fold of the material.

Decorative Sewing

The stitches obtained with the selector on Elna SP - ST - SU can also be used for decorative sewing, to give added appeal to the articles you make. All you need is a little imagination and a bit of practice. It is preferable to use embroidery thread and choose matching colours. Reinforce soft material by putting paper underneath.

Scalloped Edging - fig. 74

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This kind of scallops is made by folding the edge of the material only once. Sew, making the needle stitch off the

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material to the right, close to the edge. It is not necessary to cut away the edges of the scallops after sewing, as is usually the case, Tray-cloths, table sets and tablecloths, frills on blouses and at openings will all look particularly good with this scalloped edge.

fig. 75

4~ cS3j2 and]13 Braid is easy to put on and looks attractive on curtains, cushions or national costume blouses. Sew the braid on both sides with straight stitches. Then use the edging stitch along each side and sew two rows of decorative stitches back to back down the middle.
Pages 35 to 38 deal mainly with additional sewing which can be done with interchangeable single Elna-discs on Elna machines ST - SU

Scallops - fig. 76

,g Gh A 4 3Y For flounces, table sets, serviettes, children's clothes, etc. Sewn by itself or in combination with other Elna-discs, this scalloped edge always adds an alluring touch. You should usually sew slightly inside the edge on either single or double material. Then cut away flush with the scallops. The scallop stitch is also very useful for embroidering attractive patterns in the middle of the material, in conjunction with other decorative stitches.

Fagoting - fig. 77

tiG.A (orr G<fl4) (or 25)
By holding two pieces of material, which have been overcast and placed side by side, folded once, about 2 to 3 mm apart, you can sew the desired fagoting stitch between them. This open-work stitching can be used for tablecloths, lengthening dresses, decorating sheets, trimming dresses and blouses, lengthening curtains, etc. or for any other kind of border.
Monograms - fig. 78 and 79
Not everyone is immediately capable of embroidering a tapered monogram. It requires a certain amount of practice first. But with a little imagination and Elna-disc 17, it becomes easy. Draw the monogram first. Sew the straight parts with a satin stitch and use Elna-disc 17 for the curves. To make the curves, stop sewing after each phase of the stitch pattern, leave the needle in the material, raise the foot and turn the material as required. To increase or reduce the width of the stitch pattern evenly, stop sewing after each phase and increase or reduce the stitch

Sewing on Borders, Stand-u p Collars, Cuffs. in Jersey or Knitted Fabrics

and 0 152

(CA These can be sewn according to the instructions on page 29, but with the superstretch stitch (101 152) the stretch stitching will be even better finished. If you would like thinner seams or a more neatly finished look, proceed as follows. -fig. 101 Place the right side of the border against the right side of the material, just inside the edge, and sew

103 104

with a triple seam (Elna-dis 149, stitch width 0, stitch length A) - fig. 102 Open out the seam as illustrated, - fig. 103 Fold over the side that has not been sewn and sew it to the open seam of the garment with superstretch stitch 0 152. stitch width 4. stitch length A. -fig. 104 Fold out the border and iron with a damp cloth. N.B.: For stand-up collars and for cuffs, the circumference should first be closed with a tripie seam,

Hemstitching

True hemstitching can be sewn automatically with the Elna SU. Take a large needle, size 100 to 120, and fine darning thread. Linen and well-dressed fabrics can be sewn as they are. For very fine materials like organza and organdy, reduce the stitch width, if necessary. Depending on the type of hemstitch, the needle may sew as many as 9 times in the same hole. It is therefore essential to adjust the stitch length in accordance with the quality of material and thread, turning the stitch tuner to between A + and A -. Make a test before starting the actual work
Turkish Hemstitching - fig. 105-106 rx A G X 2-3 X A
Fig. 106. Just like artistic embroidery. Sew first and then draw the threads.
* Point do Paris - fig. 107
,g GE. A X4 A Needle 80-100 For fine embroidery on dress bodices; for all kinds of applique work; for sewing on lace; for fringes, etc.
Stars and Venetian Hemstitch - fig. 108.IF A 0142 gj34 A
The stars can be embroidered on dresses or other garments, used as an edging for braid or combined with hemstitching.
* Venetian Hemstitch - fig. 108
r A Q -4 * These Elna-discs are available as extras. o A

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Embroidery with Metallic Thread

- fig. 109-110

as required A huge range of possibilities is opened up for machine embroidery by the use of gold, silver or coloured metallic threads such as Lurex. Wind the metallic thread onto the bobbin, place it in the rotary hook and set the lower tension to between 0 and 'h. Choose an upper thread of the same colour as the material or of a colour similar to that of the metallic thread, depending on the effect you wish to obtain. Sew with the material the wrong side up. so that the metallic thread makes the designs on the right side. If the material is too soft, draw the designs on a piece of paper and place it on the wrong side of the material just under the

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CZ 2-4

You can use a straight or zigzag stitch for quilting. Adjust the stitch width and length as required. Always begin in the middle of the work. Sew the first row of stitches and adjust the guide to the desired distance between the rows (to do so, loosen the screw on the guide and then tighten it again). The guide should not press on the material for it will prevent it from sliding smoothly. Sew first one side of the work and then the other, starting from the center and working towards the edge. This is because the layers of padding tend to shift and the edges may have to be evened afterwards. So always allow a little extra material.

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Extra Accessories
The following is a complete list of the extra accessories that are available as this Sewing Guide goes to press-including those already described on previous pages.
Electronic Foot Control - 199
If the control is marked " electronic ", it has a small switch as shown opposite. This gives the machine two different ranges of sewing speeds: - fast speeds: with the switch at 4 a - slow speeds: with the switch at -

Button Foot - 200

For buttons, hooks and buckles.

Darning Plate - 224

For particularly fine darning.
Button Foot with Adjustable Guide - 202
For sewing buttons with stems on woollens, heavy materials, etc.
Quilting Foot with Guide - 204
For sewing at regular intervals (quilting), for guiding the edges of materials and for covering cord - illustrated page 53.

Multiple Cord Foot - 205

As many as five fine cords can be inserted Into this foot and sewn on with decorative stitches. Very attractive effects can be achieved.
Hemmer Feet for Hems of 2, 4, and 6 mm - 206 Rolled Hem Foot - 211
For rolled hems combined with the zigzag or other decorative stitches.

Roller Foot - 207

For all ordinary or decorative sewing; especially suitable for plastic materials, thick edges and for joining elastic materials, leather and imitation leather - illustrated page 53.

Felling Foot - 208

For felled hems.

Gathering Foot - 209

Also used for sewing on gathered flounces. - illustrated page 10.

Tucker Foot - 210

Tucks are sewn with the twin needle.

Embroidery Foot - 223

Metal foot for sewing various satin stitches, ornamental stitches and hemstitching.

Braiding Foot - 212

For sewing on braid, soutache and cord.

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224 202

mum W.

205 205

223 212

Blind Stitch Foot with Guide - 203
For hems in woollens, heavy and medium materials illustrated page 52.
1/8") Eyelets and Awl - 213
Plates for 2 and 4 mm (1/16" and
Make eyelets with holes having a diameter of 2 or 4 mm (1/16- or 1/8-). The awl is used for piercing the material to make the holes,
2 or 2.7 mm/Twin Needle - 216
For sewing piping, decorative designs, etc.
* Needle Plate for Tailor Tacks, Basting and Saddle Stitching - 218
For marking material according to the pattern with tailor tacks. For basting with long loose stitches, which are easy to remove after final sewing. Can also be used for saddle stitching and long stitches with cordonnet thread or sewing thread see also page 38.
' Needle Plate with Round Hole - 219
Very practical for users who mainly do straight sewing (fine or soft material, net, etc.)
Spool and Bobbin Case - 220
For tidy arrangement of threads, spools. bobbins, needles, etc

Elna-disc Case - 221

Holds ten discs and makes selecting them easier.
Circular Sewing Device - 222
For decorations, large scallops, various combinations, etc.

Monogram Device - 226

For embroidering perfect monograms, on sheets, towels, tablecloths, serviettes. etc.

Dust Cover - 227

not illustrated. Useful lon protecting the machine when taking a shot bherak from sewmy,

Needle plate

Depending nn the country, the needle plate has the guiding lines marked in eighths of an inch (3-4-5-6) or in millimeters (10 -15-20).

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Adjustments Applique Work Borders Braid Break-downs (see Instruction Booklet) Buttonholes: elastic overlock in jersey in knitted fabrics reinforced repairing Buttons Combining Decorative Stitches Curtains (net) Darning: automatic edges embroidery, shaded or needle painting instant with fine wool Decoration