Hold the screw heads with a spanner and tighten the engine fixing screws with the specified torque. Element A B C Nm 66 Kgm 6,6 6,6 6,6
Length of the screws (A): 108 mm (B): 110 mm (D): 103 mm
Fix the brake pedal screw with the specified torque. Brake pedal screw: 29 Nm (2,9 Kg) PRECAUTION Replace the carved bolts with new ones.
Mount the engine pinion. NOTE: Observe which is the placement direction before the said pinion, to be able to achieve the same direction of wear.
Place the engine pinion clip.
Connect the chassis tank tube.
Fix the exhaust collector screw (1), with the specified torque.
NOTE: Apply component NURAL 29 in the exhaust system joints.
NOTE: Apply LOCTITE 243 to the pedal starter lever screw.
Fill 1.2 L of an engine oil classified SF or SG through the API service and with a degree of viscosity SAE 10W-40 through the oil fill mouth in the frame (A) and check the level. DATA Engine oil capacity Change of oil: 1 L Changing the oil and filter: 1.2 L Engine general inspection: 1.2 L
Start the engine and leave it running some three minutes at idle. Stop the engine and wait three minutes; immediately check the oil level via the rod.
Minimum level Maximum level

Dismounting the engine

Loosen the 3 screws that hold the starter clutch cover. One of the 3 also holds the alternator cover.
Remove the starter clutch cover.
Extract the starter clutch.
Loosen the 2 screws that hold the starter motor.
Extract the starter motor. NOTE: The 2005 starter motor turns in the opposite direction to that of 2004.
Loosen the 7 retaining screws that hold the alternator cover. One of them is located in the starter clutch cavity.
Remove the alternator cover.
Loosen the 2 screws that hold the position sensor (Pick-Up) (A).
Remove the de-multiplier pinion (B).
Loosen and extract the spark plug.
Loosen the crankshaft nut. NOTE: The nut loosens towards the right.
Turn the alternator rotor until placing the 7th tooth (A) of the phonic wheel in the center of the position sensor (Pick-Up) hole.
Loosen the 3 screws that hold the cylinder head cover.
Remove the cylinder head cover.
With the help of the extractor (Ref: MFS400134045), remove the alternator rotor.
Loosen the 3 screws that hold the oil extractor pump.
Remove the oil extractor pump cover.
Remove the oil extractor pump.
Loosen the 2 screws that hold the distributor chain tensor.
Remove the distributor chain tensor.
Remove the oil distributor.
Loosen the 2 lateral screws that hold the cylinder head to the cylinder.
Loosen the rear screw that holds the cylinder to the cylinder head.
Loosen the front screw that holds the cylinder to the cylinder head.

Loosen the 8 screws of the covers of the 2 camshafts and the distribution chain skate.
Remove the distributor chain upper skate.
Remove the intake camshaft cover.
Remove the exhaust camshaft cover.
Remove the intake camshaft.
Remove the exhaust camshaft.
Loosen and remove cylinder head lateral screw.
Loosen the 4 locking screws that hold the cylinder head.

Remove the 4 screws.

Remove the cylinder head.
Remove the cylinder head gasket.
Remove the distributor chain front skate.
Loosen the 2 screws that hold the cylinder to the engine housing.
Hold the distributor chain and remove the cylinder.
Remove one of the clips that hold the piston casing and push to remove it.
Remove the cylinder gasket.
Loosen the 5 screws that hold the cover of the clutch disks.
Remove the cover of the clutch disks.
Screw the centering tools into place (supplied together with the tools for the motorbike) and tighten them to 10 Nm. NOTE: This operation is mandatory to ensure the correct dismounting of the clutch.
Remove the 3 screws, the 3 washers and the 3 springs that hold the clutch unit.
Remove the clutch press cover.
Remove the clutch pusher.

Open the washer lug.

Loosen the fixing bolt, blocking the clutch bell turn with the tool Ref. MFS4504500220.

Remove the clutch unit.

Loosen the 3 screws that hold the oil filter cover.
Remove the oil filter cover.
Remove the oil filter and the spring.
Loosen the screws that hold the clutch casing.
Remove the clutch casing.

Remove the clutch bell.

Loosen the screw that holds the distributor chain tensor skate and remove it.
Remove the gear selector axle.
Remove the gear pedal axle spring.
Remove the gear pedal axle unit.
Remove the starter intermediate pinion clip.
Remove the starter intermediate pinion.
Remove the oil pump intermediate pinion.
Remove the clip and remove the oil pump pinion.
Loosen the 2 screws that hold the oil pump cover.

Place the starter clutch.
Place the starter clutch cover and fix with the 3 screws.
Introduce the starter motor and place the 2 cases of the starter motor.
Replacement of the standard clutch with the clutch ADLER APTC
Replacement of the clutch

GENERAL WARNINGS

Always shut off the engine before starting any work, in particular, when operating in closed environments without gas evacuation facilities. Shut off the engine, remove the contact key and wait until the engine, the exhaust system and the brake unit have cooled enough to avoid burns and risk of fire. Place special attention to the parts still hot of the engine or of the vehicle (ex.: the exhaust system and the brake unit) to avoid burns. Raise the vehicle with the corresponding means over a flat and resistant pavement. The components and liquids coming from the vehicle should be eliminated and treated in accordance with the existing environmental laws. To maintain maximum safety levels, it is recommended to carefully follow the instructions. Responsibility is declined for damage to persons and/or things derived from an erroneous or inappropriate mounting. The inadequate use and modification of the APTC (Adler Power Torque Clutch) clutch, aside from the erroneous mounting not performed in accordance with the instructions, lead to the automatic annulment of any existing guarantee over the product. All the characteristics described in the present documentation, should be understood as valid for vehicles in standard conditions, without faults or anomalies.
SUBSTITUTION OF THE STANDARD CLUTCH BY THE APTC ADLER CLUTCH
The clutch cube consists of two pieces united together by a special helicoidal shape. The output of the clutch is related to the torque applied. In the acceleration phase, to the constant force of the pressure disk springs over the clutch disks package, is also added the force generated by the unit, ensuring the transmission of the engine torque with a necessary charge over the springs greatly reduced with respect to the one of the conventional clutch. During the changing of gears, to the constant and limited force of the pressure disk springs is subtracted the force generated by the unit, ensuring the reduction of transmitted torque and the anti-bounce effect of the rear wheel. Over the clutch control lever is perceived, in any condition of engine use, only and exclusively the load, greatly reduced, of the clutch springs applied over the pressure disk.
In the models of 450 cc 4T of enduro produced before 2004 are equipped with a conventionsl clutch that may be substituted by the APTC clutch performingthe following operations. Note: the following operations are performed with the engine installed in the vehicle.

Dismounting:

Place a recipient to collect oil below the engine and remove the sump purge screw.
Loosen and remove the screw that fixes the brake pedal. Remove the brake pedal.
Loosen and remove the clutch cover screws.
Loosen and unscrew in a cross manner the screws that fix the pressure disk springs. Remove the screws from the pressure disk, the washers and the springs.
Dismount the clutch pressure disk and remove the gearbox primary cam point.
Open the security washer lug that locks the gearbox primary cam nut. Remove the clutch disks one by one.
Lock the clutch pail using the special tool MFS450450020. Loosen and remove the nut and the safety washer. Remove the special tool and remove the clutch pail from the gearbox primary cam.
ATTENTION: The washer situated below the pail should stay on the gearbox primary cam. Mounting: The mounting procedure is performed as described from page 41 of this manual. Warning: A moderate use is recommended during the first period of use of the APTC, to allow the normal adjustment of the different components and of the clutch disks. In case of especially intense use the APTC should be periodically subject to inspection and maintenance. The periods of this APTC maintenance depend on the conditions of use. In racing type conditions of use, the inspection and maintenance of the APTC should be performed before each competition. In normal use conditions, the APTC maintenance should be performed in accordance with the conditions defined in the user manual of GAS GAS.
Inspection and maintenance of the engine components
Cylinder head...61 Cam axle unit / automatic decompressor.73 Cylinder...75 Piston and piston ring..76 Connecting rod....78 Crankshaft....79 Starter clutch...79 Oil pump...80 Clutch...80 Gears and gearbox pins..82 Transmission....83 Bearings...84 Retainers...88
Inspection and maintenance
WARNING Identify the position of each one of the parts. Group the parts (exhaust, intake) to be able to again mount them in their original positions.
CYLINDER HEAD Dismounting
Dismount the intake tube.
Dismount the support of the engine coolant tubes.
Remove the tacks (1) and the adjustment pads (2), manually or with a magnet.

Compress the valve springs and next remove the semi-icons of the valve rod with the special tools. Ref.: Valve spring compressor Ref.: Adapter Ref.: Tongs
Remove the valve spring plate (1) and the valve springs (2).
Remove the valves through the cylinder head lower side.
Remove the valve retainers with some long nosed pliers. Dismount the valve spring washers.
NOTE: The normal dismounting work ends with the dismounting of the valves. If the valve guides have not been dismounted for its replacement after checking the associated parts, continue the described procedure in the box related to the maintenance of the guide valves.
Cylinder head deformation
De-carbonise the combustion chamber. With a ruler and thickness gauge, check if the surface of the cylinder head gasket is deformed. Measure the looseness in various places. If any of the looseness measurements surpass the service limit, replace the cylinder head with a new one. Tool ref.: Thickness gauge DATA Cylinder head deformation: Service limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in)

Valve rod de-centering

Hold the valve with trapezoidal locks and measure the de-centering of the rod with a quadrant gauge, as shown. If the de-centering surpasses the service limit, replace the valve with a new one.
Tool ref.: Cuadrant gauge (1/100 mm) Tool ref.: Magnetic support Tool ref.: Trapezoidal lock units (100 mm) DATA Valve rod de-centering: Service limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Valve head radial de-centering
Hold the valve with a trapezoidal lock and measure the radial de-centering of the head with a quadrant gauge, as shown. If the de-centering surpasses the service limit, replace the valve with a new one. Tool ref.: Cuadrant gauge (1/100 mm) Tool ref.: Magnetic support Tool ref.: Trapezoidal lock units (100 mm) DATA Valve head radial de-centering: Service limit: 0.03 mm (0.001 in)

Valve work surface wear

Visually check if the work surface of each valve is worn out or damaged. If abnormal wear is detected, replace the respective valve with a new one. Measure the thickness (T) of the valve work surface. If the thickness is not found within the specified value replace the valve with a new one. Tool ref.: Thickness gauge DATA Valve work surface thickness (T): Service limit: 0.5 mm (0.02 in)

Valve rod deflection

Remove the valve some 10 mm from the seat. Measure the rod deflection in two directions, X and Y, perpendicular to each other. Place the cuadrant gauge as shown. If the deflection surpasses the service limit, replace the valve or the guide with a new one. Tool ref.: Cuadrant gauge (1/100 mm) Tool ref.: Magnetic support DATA Valve rod deflection: Service limit: 0.35 mm (0.014 in)

Valve rod wear

Measure the wear exterior diameter with a micrometer. If the exterior diameter is not found within the specified value, replace the valve with a new one. If the rod exterior diameter is found within the specified value but not the deflection, replace the valve guide with a new one. After replacing the valve or the guide, check the deflection. Tool ref.: Micrometer (0-25 mm) DATA Valve rod exterior diameter: Intake: 4.975-4.990 mm (0.1959 - 0.1965 in) Exhaust: 4.955-4.970 mm (0.1951 - 0.1957 in)

Valve guide maintenance

Extract the valve guide towards the cam axle side with the valve guide extractor. Tool ref.: Extractor/valve guide mounter NOTE: Discard the valve guide. Oversized valve guides are only available as spares.
Rectify the valve guide holes in the cylinder head with the valve guide tool and the handle. Tool ref.: Valve guide tool (10.8 mm) Tool ref.: Tool handle
Apply oil to the rod hole of each one of the valve guides and introduce the guide in the hole with the valve guide extractor/mounter and the adapter. Tool ref.: Extractor/valve guide mounter Tool ref.: Valve guide mounter adapter WARNING If the valve guide hole is not lubricated before introducing the new guide, this or the cylinder head may be damaged.
After mounting the valve guides, adjust the guide interior walls with the valve guide tool. Clean and lubricate the guides after adjusting them. Tool ref.: Valve guide tool (5 mm) Tool ref.: Tool handle

Valve seating width

Paint uniformly with Prussian blue the valve seating. Mount the valve and couple to it a valve polisher. Apply light taps to the painted seating in circles to obtain a clear impression of the surface contact. Tool ref.: Valve polishing set
The paint impression in ring form that stays over the work surface of the valve should be continous, without any interruption. Also, the width of the paint ring, which is the width of the valve seating, should be found within the following specified value. DATA Width of the valve seating (W): 0.9-1.1 mm (0.035 -1.092 mm) If the valve seating is found outside of the specified value, correct it.

Intake

Valve seating maintenance
The intake and exhaust valve seatings are mechanised in three different angles. The contact surface of the seating is cut at 45.
Intake Exhaust N-128 N-128 N-114

Exhaust N-128 N-121 N-114
Tool (United States) Vlave seating knife: N-114, N-121 and N-128 Tools (Rest of the world) Ref.: Valve seating corrector unit Ref.: Knife N-128 Ref.: Knife N-114 Ref.: Knife N-121 NOTE: Use the solid centerer together with the valve seating knifes N-114, N-121 and N-128. WARNING After each cut you should check the valve seating contact surface.
Place the solid centerer (1) and turn it lightly.
Place well the centering tool. Place the 45 knife (2), the adapter (3) and the handle in T (4).
Initial cut of the seating
De-encrust and clean the seating with the 45 knife. Turn the knife one or two turns. Measure the width of the valve seating (W) after each cut.
If the valve seating is bruised or burned, use the 45 knife to finish conditioningthe seating. NOTE: Only cut the minimum amount necessary of the seating to prevent the possibility of having to replace the tack adjustment supplement.

Upper width cut

If the contact surface is too high in the valve or if it is too narrow, use the 30 knife (intake side) and the 15 knife (exhaust side) to lower it and make it narrow.
Contact surface too low and too narrow in the valve work surface.

Final cut of the seating

If the contact surface is too low in the valve, or if it is too narrow, use the 60 knife to elevate it and widen it. If the contact surface is too high in the valve or if it is too wide, use the 15 knife to lower it and narrow it to the correct width. Once the seating correct widths and position are obtained, use the 60 knife very lightly to clean the shavings produced by the previous cutting operations. WARNING Do not use a polishing compound after having performed the final cut. The finished valve seating should present a velvety finish, but not too polished or brilliant. This would give a smooth surface for the valve final seating which will be produced during the first seconds of the engine functioning. NOTE: After performing the valve seating maintenance, check the tack play once the cylinder head is mounted. (2-5 to 2-8)
Valve seating hermetic status check
With the valve and the spring mounted, pour a small amount of gasoline through the leading tube of the intake or exhaust. Check that no gasoline comes out of the valve seating. If a leak is observed, correct the lock surface. ATTENTION The gasoline is highly flammable and explosive. Maintain heat sources, sparks and flames far from the gasoline.

Cam axle bridge wear

With the cam axle mounted, measure the width of the oil with the plastic tool. Tools Ref.: Plastic tool DATA Cam axle bridge oil width (intake and exhaust) Service limit: 0.150 mm
Tighten the bridge support screws uniformly and in diagonal sequence with the specified torque. Cam axle bridge support screw: 10 Nm (1 kgm)
NOTE: Do not turn the cam axle with the plastic tool placed. Dismount the supports of the stumps and measure the width of the plastic tool compressed with the surrounding ruler. This measurement should be performed in the wider part of the compressed plastic tool. If the cam axle bridge oil width surpasses the service limit, measure the bridge support interior diameter and the bridge exterior diameter. Replace the cam axle or the cylinder head and the cam axle support, depending on which one exceeds the specified value. Tool Ref.: Lower calibration gauge DATA Cam axle bridge support interior diameter (intake and exhaust) Normal: 22.012 - 22.025 mm Tool Ref.: Micrometer (0-25 mm) DATA Cam axle bridge exterior diameter (intake and exhaust) Normal: 21.972 21.993 mm

Cam axle de-centering

Hold the valve with trapezoidal locks and measure the de-centering of the cam axle with the cuadrant gauge. If the de-centering surpasses the service limit, replace the cam axle with a new one. Tools Ref.: Cuadrant gauge (1/100 mm) Ref.: Magnetic support Ref.: Trapezoidal lock units (100 mm) DATA Cam axle de-centering. Service limit: 0.10 mm
CYLINDER Cylinder deformation
With a ruler and thickness gauge, check if the surface of the cylinder block gasket is deformed. Measure the looseness in various places. If any of the looseness measurements surpass the service limit replace the cylinder block with a new one. Tool ref.: Thickness gauge DATA Cylinder deformation Service limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in)

Cylinder interior wall

Check if the cylinder interior wall presents scratches, nicks or other damage. Measure the cylinder interior diameter in six places. Tool Ref.: Cylinder gauge unit DATA Cylinder interior diameter FSE 400: 90.000 - 90.015 mm FSE 450: 95.000 95.015 mm
PISTON AND PISTON RING Piston diameter
Measure the piston diameter with a micrometer at 15 mm of the end of the skirt. If the piston diameter is lower than the service limit, replace the piston with a new one. Tool ref.: Micrometer (75-100 mm) DATA Piston diameter Service limit FSE 400: 89.880 mm Service limit FSE 450: 94.880 mm
Space between the piston ring and the groove Fig.1
Measure the side spaces of the 1st and 2nd piston rings with the thickness gauge. If any of the spaces exceeds the service limit, replace the piston and the rings. Tool ref.: Thickness gauge DATA Space between the piston ring and the groove (Fig. 1) Service limit: 1: 0.18 mm (0.0071 in) 2: 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)

DATA Piston rings groove width (Fig. 2) Normal: FSE 400 1: 1.03 mm 2: 1.22 mm FSE 450 1: 1.23 mm 2: 1.53 mm Lubrication: 2.01 -2.03 mm Tool ref.: Micrometer (0-25 mm) DATA Piston rings thickness (Fig. 3) Normal: FSE 400 1: 0.985 mm 2: 1.19 mm FSE 450 1: 1,19 mm 2: 1.49 mm
Free piston ring end aperture and piston ring end aperture
First measure the piston ring free end aperture with the calliper and then place the piston ring transversally in the cylinder and measure the aperture of the ring end with the thickness gauge. Tool ref.: Thickness gauge DATA Aperture of the free piston ring end (Fig. 4) Service limit: 1: 5.5 mm 2: 9.2 mm

! ! ! !

Tool ref.: Thickness gauge DATA Aperture of the piston ring end (Fig. 5) Service limit: 1: 0.50 mm 2: 0.50 mm
Piston bolt holder and bolt interior diameter
Measure the piston bolt holder diameter with a small calliper. If the diameter surpasses the service limit, replace the piston with a new one. Tool ref.: Cuadrant gauge (1/1,000 mm) Tool ref.: Small calliper (18-35 mm) DATA Piston bolt holder interior diameter Service limit: 20.030 mm Measure the piston bolt holder exterior diameter in three places, with the micrometer. If any of the measurements surpasses the service limit, replace the piston with a new one. Tool ref.: Micrometer (0-25 mm) DATA Piston bolt exterior diameter Service limit: 19.980 mm
CONNECTING ROD Connecting rod foot interior diameter
Measure the connecting rod foot interior diameter with the small calliper. If the interior diameter of the connecting rod foot exceeds the service limit, replace the connecting rod with a new one. Tool ref.: Cuadrant calibrator compass DATA Connecting rod foot interior diameter Service limit: 20.040 mm
Connecting rod deflection and connecting rod side space
The connecting rod head wear may be estimated by checking the movement of the connecting rod foot. This method may be also used to check the degree of wear of the connecting rod head parts. Tool ref.: Magnetic support Tool ref.: Cuadrant gauge (1/100 mm) Tool ref.: Trapezoidal lock units (100 mm) DATA Connecting rod deflection Service limit: 3 mm
Push the connecting rod head to one side and measure the side space with a thickness gauge. If the space exceeds the service limit, replace the crankshaft unit with a new one or correct the deflection and the side space within the service limit replacing the worn parts (connecting rod, connecting rod head bearing, crankshaft bolt, etc.) Tool ref.: Thickness gauge DATA Connecting rod head side space Service limit: 1 mm

Before assemblingthe clutch unit it is necessary to lubricate allthe components using oil for engines conforming to the GAS GAS prescriptions. Support the exterior pail over a flat surface, as shown in the image, and introduce alternately the 8 covered conducting disks and the 7 conducted disks starting with a covered conducting disk. Support in the work bench the interior pail with opening springs in the upper part.
Maintain pressed the disk package with the fingers against the exterior pail and over turning it, introduce it in the interior pail taking care in making sure that the reference marks of bothpails coincide. Tighten the interior pail with the clutch disks corresponding to the positions of the opening springs in the exterior pail. Make sure that the opening springs are correctly placed in their seating in the exterior pail. Without stopping the clutch disk package pressure with thefingers, also hold the exterior pail. WARNING: Check that the upper conductive disk is not moved nor slides outside of the exterior pail.
Without letting go of the pressure on both pails, tighten the clutch unit in a bench press with protective gags. Tighten lightly to close the screw. Screw the three assembly screws and remove the clutch unit from the bench press. WARNING: Make sure that the conductive disk on the fixed pail side does not move and does not fall from the moving pail teeth. WARNING: Do not fully tighten the assembly screws, in a manner that it would be possible to ensure the possibility of movement relative to the conducting disks in the clutch unit group.
SPEED GEARBOX PINS AND GEARS Space between the pin and the pin groove The space of each gearbox pin plays an important role in the smoothness and positive functioning of the gearbox. Measure the space of the pins in the groove of their respective seatings, with the thickness gauge. If the space exceeds the specified value, change the pin, its respective seating or both. Tool ref.: Thickness gauge Tool ref.: Thickness gauge DATA Space between the pin and the pin groove Service limit: 0.50 m
DATA Gearbox pins groove width Normal: 4.8 -4.9 mm
DATA Gearbox pins thickness: Normal: 4.6 -4.7 mm

TRANSMISSION Dismounting

Dismount the transmission gears as shown.
01) washer 18x31.5x0.7 gearbox 02) primary pinion II 03) circlip d.25 din 471 reduced 04) washer 31.5x(25x22)x1 striated 05) primary pinion VI 06) primary pinion III and IV 07) washer 25.2x31.5x1 gearbox 08) primary pinion V 09) bearing needles k25-29-10 10) primary axle 11) bearing needles k20x24x10 12) secondary pinion I 13) washer 20.8x29x1 gearbox

WARNING Replace the extracted bearings with new ones. Mount the right and left bearings of the gearbox secondary axle with the special tool. Tool ref.: Bearing mounting unit

Crankshaft bearings

Remove the right bearings (5) and the left (6) of the crankshaft with the special tool. Tool ref.: Bearing extractor unit WARNING Replace the extracted bearings with new ones.
Mount the right and left bearings of the crankshaft with the special tool. Tool ref.: Bearing mounting unit
Desmodrome gearbox right bearing
Extract the desmodrome gearbox right bearing (7) with the special tool. Tool ref.: Bearing extractor unit WARNING Replace the extracted bearing with a new one. Mount the right bearing of the desmodrome gearbox. Tool ref.: Bearings mounting unit
Desmodrome gearbox left bearing
Remove the desmodrome gearbox left bearing (8) with the special tool. Tool ref.: Bearing extractor unit 10 WARNING Replace the extracted bearing with a new one. Mount the left bearing of the desmodrome gearbox. Bearing extractor unit
Balance axle right bearing
Extract the balance axle right bearing (9) with the special tool. Tool ref.: Bearing extractor unit WARNING Replace the extracted bearing with a new one. Mount the balance axle right bearing.
Tool ref.: Bearing extractor unit Tool ref.: Bearing mounting unit
Balance axle left bearing
Extract the balance axle left bearing (10) with the special tool. Tool ref.: Bearing extractor unit WARNING Replace the extracted bearing with a new one.
Mount the balance axle left bearing. Tool ref: Bearing mounting unit

RETAINERS

If the lip of the retainers are deteriorated engine oil or gasoline/air mix leaks may be produced. Check if the retainers are worn out or damaged. If you observe any imperfection, change the retainer with a new one. Place the retainers in the sump and the clutch cover. Pay attention to the following points:
WARNING Replace the extracted retainers with new ones.

Apply grease to the retainer lips.
Gearbox secondary axle retainers

Remove the casing (1).

Remove the gearbox secondary axle retainer in the left sump (2) with the special tool.
Tool ref.: Retainer extractor WARNING Replace the extracted retainer with a new one. Slowly place the gearbox secondary axle retainer in the left sump with the special tool. Tool ref.: Retainer mounting unit

Selector axle retainer

Slowly remove the selector axle retainer of the left sump (1) with the special tool. Tool ref.: Retainer extractor
WARNING Replace the extracted retainer with a new one. Slowly place the selector axle retainer in the left sump with the special tool. Tool ref.: Retainer mounting unit

Oil retention valve 2

Remove the cover (2), the oil retention valve ball (3) and the spring (4) of the right sump.
To again mount the oil retention valve place the spring (4), the oil retention valve ball (3) and the cover (2) in the right sump.
Crankshaft cavity sheet and oil filter cleaning
Dismount the oil filter from the right sump interior. Proceed to its cleaning without dismounting the filter sheet. WARNING If the filter is deteriorated, replace it with a new one.
Dismount the crankshaft cavity sheet and check its completeness and good condition. WARNING If the crankshaft cavity sheet is deteriorated, replace it with a new one.

Periodic maintenance

Spark plug....93 Oil filter and engine oil..94 Engine oil tubes...97

SPARK PLUG

Inspection after 30 hours of functioning. Replace after 60 hours of functioning.
Dismount the fuel tank. Disconnect the spark plug pipe and remove the spark plug.
COLD NGK DENSO STANDAR HOT

CR9E U27ESR-N U31ESR-N

CR8E U24ESR-N

CR7E U22ESR-N

Soot deposits
Check if there is soot in the spark plug. If there is soot deposited, remove it using a wire prong brush.

Spark plug tolerance

Measure the tolerance using a thickness gauge. If the spark plug is out of tolerance, adjust the tolerance. DATA: Standard: Tolerance 0.7 0.8 mm Tool: Thickness gauge.

Electrode

Check the electrode status. If the electrode is extremely worn out or burned replace the spark plug with a new one. Also replace the spark plug if the isolator is broken, the thread damaged, etc. WARNING Check the shape and length of thread when replacing the spark plug. If the neck of the spark plug is too short, the soot will be deposited in the space of the glowplug and the engine may be damaged.
Installation of the spark plug
WARNING To avoid damaging the thread of the first cylinder head screw the spark plug with the hand. Then tighten with the specified torque using the spark plug spanner. Spark plug tightening torque: 11 Nm (1.1 Kgm, 8,0 lb-ft).

OIL FILTER AND ENGINE OIL
Initially replace after 5 hours of use and then every 60 hours.
The oil should be changed while the engine is hot. The oil filter is changed in the same intervals of the engine oil.

Engine oil change

The engine oil is found in the tank of the chassis front high part and in the engine sump. To evacuate the oil open the chassis (1) and of the ngine (2) plugs also the fill plug (3).
Once the oil comes out screw the screws with the specified torque and then fill the oil again through the fill hole. When performing an oil change (without replacing the oil filter), the engine will store about 1 L (1.05 US qt, 0.8 Imp qt) of oil. Use an engine oil that complies with the standard API classifications SF or SG and that it has a range of viscosity SAE 10W-40.
ENGINE OIL DRAINAGE In sump (2): 21 Nm (2.1 Kg, 6.80 lb-ft) In chassis (1): 18 Nm (1.8 Kg, 13.0 lb-ft) WARNING Screw the plug (1) take the precaution of placing the gasket correctly. If the gasket is damaged replace it with a new one. To check the oil level place the motorcycle in the functioning position. Screw the plug of the oil tank (3). Place the motorcycle on and have three minutes at idle. Stop the motorcycle and wait three minutes, check the oil level with the oil stick. The oil level should be between the level lines L and F. NOTE: The oil extends and the same level increases when the engine oil is hot.

Oil filter change

Remove the oil filter cover (1) and the oil filter (2). Change the filter with a new one. NOTE: Before mounting the filter cover make sure of the correct mounting of the spring and replace the filter cover gasket. Makesure that the thoric behind the filter is placed in the correct position. Change the oil filter cover and tighten the safety nut. Add new oil to the engine and check the oil level just as described in the oil change procedure.
DATA: Engine oil capacity Change of oil: 1 L (1.05 US qt, 0.8 Imp qt) Changing the oil and oil filter: 1.2 L (1.3 US qt, 1 Imp qt) Engine check: 1.2 L (1.3 US qt, 1 Imp qt) WARNING Check the correct position of mounting of the filter (according to the images). If the filter is mounted in another position the engine may be damaged.

ENGINE OIL TUBES

Foreword

GAS GAS thanks you for your confidence. By choosing the new GAS GAS FSR / FSR SM 2008 you have just entered the great GAS GAS family and, as a user of the number one off-road motorbike manufacturer, you deserve the distinguished treatment that we wish to offer to you both in our after-sale relationship and in the explanations that we provide in this manual. Our FSR / FSR SM 2008 is a bike conceived for highly competitive performance. In fact this bike is the fruit of many years of competition and experimentation in these demanding disciplines; many great trial riders have contributed their expertise and achievements to the essential data we have used to create these high-quality, exclusive motorcycles incorporating key features such as reliability, high performance and stability. Congratulations for making, without a doubt, the right choice. With skill at the controls of this motorbike, an adequate preparation and the corresponding essential servicing this GAS GAS will remain highly reliable and you will be able to enjoy the most comfortable and rewarding motor sport. Thank you for your confidence and welcome to GAS GAS motos SA.
IMPORTANT NOTICE Read this manual carefully. This manual covers aspects that will contribute to your security and to that of others, as well as guaranteeing a correct conservation and maintenance of this GAS GAS motorcycle you have just acquired. All of the instructions to correctly handle and drive this motorcycle are described in detail. Each message will be preceded by a symbol.
Inadequate driving skill could cause problems to the environment and conflict with other people. Responsible use of your motorcycle will ensure that these problems and conflicts do not occur.
TO PROTECT THE FUTURE OF YOUR SPORT, MAKE SURE YOU USE YOUR BIKE LEGALLY, WITH CONCERN FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, AND RESPECT THE RIGHTS OF OTHER PEOPLE. Motorcycle riding is a fantastic sport, and we hope you will enjoy it to the fullest.
WARNING This title identifies special instructions or procedures that, if not correctly followed, could result in personal injury, or even death.
CAUTION This title identifies special instructions or procedures that, if not strictly observed, could result in damage to or destruction of equipment.

OIL RECOMMENDED:

NOTE This title indicates points of particular interest for more efficient and convenient operation.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Foreword....3 Important notice...4 Table of contents...5 General information..6 Component locations...8 Side stand...10 Petrol....10 Serial number and the qualification approval plate..11 Starting and stopping the engine..12 Cold starting....13 Gear changes...13 Stopping the motorcycle...14 Break-in...14 Maintenance chart..15 Battery...16 Cooling system....17 Spark plug...20 Air filter...23 Accelerator cable...24 Clutch....25 Exhaust system...25
Chain guide...26 Tension adjustment...27 Handle bars....29 Brakes...29 Steering...31 Steering lock...32 Front forks...33 Rear suspension...36 Wheels...38 Cleaning...39 Tighten bolts and nuts...40 Tightening torque table...41 Lubrication...42 Engine oil...43 Suspension adjustment...46 In competition...50 Storage....51 Multi-function instructions..52 Fault diagnosis...58 Electrical schemas..64 Guarantee manual..66

GENERAL INFORMATION

ENGINE Engine Displacement in cubic centimetres Bore and stroke Fuel supply TRANSMISSION Transmission type Clutch type Secondary transmission Gear ratio
4 stroke, single-cylinder DOHC 4 valves, liquid cooled 449 cc 97 x 60.76 mm Electronic injection (Battery Less EFI)
Primary reduction ratio Final reduction ratio Overall drive ratio Transmission oil

Capacity Type

6 speed Oil bath, multi-disk hydraulic action By chain 1st 2.071(29/14) 2nd 1.625(26/16) 3rd 1.333(24/18) 4th 1.100(22/20) 5th 0.913(21/23) 6th 0.791(19/24) 3.00(57/19) 3.538 (46/13) 8.149(6th gear) 1200 cc 5W40 API SF or SG
CHASSIS Type Tyre sizes Front Rear
DELTABOX, semi double cradle chassis made from rectangular Cromoly tubes. Aluminium rocker FSR - 90/90 x 21 FSR SM - 120/60 ZR17 FSR - 140/80 x 18 FSR SM - 150/60 ZR17
Suspension Suspension stroke Front suspension oil Front fork oil level

Front Rear Front Rear

48 mm inverted fork 45 mm inverted fork Progressive system with single multi-adjustment shock absorber 295 mm 320 mm Between SAE 5 and 7.5 (check manufacturers information) 100 mm (compressed, without spring) 120 mm (compressed, without spring)

STARTING THE ENGINE - Ensure that the motorcycle is in neutral. - Press button (A) to turn on the electrical circuit, so that the motor may be started.
Stopping the engine - Change gear to neutral. - After accelerating lightly, cut the gas completely and press button (C). The electrical circuits are closed.
NOTE Start the engine soon after making contact with the ON button (A) or the battery may lose its change.
- Without using the throttle, press the electric start button (B).
COLD STARTING The cold start function is responsible for aiding the engine start if this is cold. (The injection system has a feature which allows high idling when the engine is cold.) - There is no need to use the throttle, simply start the engine. Note that the engine will start after a certain number of revolutions. After some minutes, the engine will be at normal operation temperature. The engine will reach its optimal temperature, in low time and without causing damage.
SHIFTING GEARS The transmission is a 6 speed, return shift type meaning that to go back to first gear from a higher gear, you must shift back through the gears one by one. To engage first gear from neutral, pull in the clutch lever and push down on the shift pedal then release the pressure on the shift pedal and gently release the clutch lever.
CAUTION NOTE - If the engine is flooded then start with the throttle fully open. - The motorcycle may be started in gear if the clutch is disengaged. When changing gears, press firmly on the shift pedal to ensure complete, positive shifting. Careless, incomplete shifts can cause the transmission to jump out of gear and lead to engine damage.

(B). Shift pedal.

STOPPING THE MOTORCYCLE For maximum deceleration, close the throttle (A) and apply both front and rear brakes. Disengage the clutch as the motorcycle comes to a stop. Independent use of the front or rear brake may be advantageous under certain conditions. Downshift progressively as speed is reduced to ensure good engine response when you want to accelerate.
NOTE The slow speed necessary during the break-in period may cause carbon to build up on the spark plug and soil it. If inspection of the spark plug shows this to be the case, replace the standard spark plug with a higher heat grade spark plug for the duration of the break-in period. Break-in following these steps: 1. Start the engine and let it run at idle until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. 2. Stop and let the engine cool completely 3. Start the engine and ride for 10 minutes at moderate speed. NEVER ACCELERATE FULLY. 4. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust chain slack and spoke tightness and make a general inspection. 5. Start the engine and ride for 20 minutes at moderate engine speed. NEVER ACCELERATE FULLY. 6. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust (4). 7. Fit the inspected parts. 8. Fill the radiator up completely with cooling liquid. Before starting the engine bleed the air from the cooling system. 9. Start the engine and ride for 30 minutes at moderate speed. 10. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust (4). 11. After the break-in procedure has been properly carried out, the motorcycle is ready for regular operation. CAUTION In any case, even an imprudent acceleration can cause engine trouble, take special care and use the proper skills and techniques required for correct driving of the motorcycle. NOTE Following the break-in, fit a new standard spark plug.

CAUTION Using a high pressure water source could damage the radiator fins and render it ineffective. Do not obstruct or deviate the radiator air intake by installing nonapproved accessories. Interfering with the radiator could cause overheating and result in engine damage. Coolant This absorbs excessive heat from the engine and transfers it to the air at the radiator. If the coolant level becomes low, the engine overheats and may suffer severe damage. Check the coolant level each day before riding the motorcycle. Replenish coolant if the level is low. WARNING To avoid burns, do not remove the radiator cap or try to change the coolant when the engine is still hot. Wait for it to cool down.
CAUTION Not using the standard manner of charging may seriously shorten the battery life. Never exceed the standard charge. CAUTION Inverting the polarity of the battery terminals may cause battery charge problems and cause damage to the battery system. The red terminal is positive (+) and the black terminal is negative (-). THE COOLING SYSTEM Radiator hose Check the radiator hoses for cracks or deterioration, and connections for leaks. Radiator Check the radiator fins for obstruction by insects or mud. Clean off any obstructions with a stream of low-pressure water.
Anti-freeze liquid information To protect the cooling system aluminium parts (engine and radiator) from rust and corrosion, the use of corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals in the coolant is essential. If coolant containing corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals is not used, over a period of time, the radiator will rust. This will block the cooling hoses.
Coolant Level CAUTION Use of incorrect coolant solutions will cause severe engine and cooling system damage. Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors made specifically for aluminium engines and radiators in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer. - Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground. - Remove the radiator cap in two stages. First turn the cap anti-clock wise and wait for a few seconds. Then push and turn it further in the same direction to remove the cap.
WARNING Coolant chemicals are harmful to the human body. Follow coolant manufacturer warnings and coolant handing instructions.

Cleaning the air filter

- Clean the filter in a filter bath using a soft brush.
THROTTLE CABLE - Check that the throttle grip turns smoothly - Check that the throttle grip has 2-3 mm of play. - If the play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on the upper end of the throttle cable, and turn the adjuster to obtain the correct amount of play. - Tighten the locknut.
- Squeeze it and take it out with a clean cloth.
- Check the air filter for damage such as scraping, hardening, shrinkage If it is damaged then replace otherwise dirt will enter the throttle body. - Grease all of the connections and bolts of the air filter and inlets.
Install the filter in the cage and cover the filter lip (A) with a thick layer of grease to ensure a seal and to avoid dust penetration. - Fit the air filter to the motorcycle and ensure that it is correctly connected.
(A). Adjustment. (B). Lock nut. (C). Throttle grip. (D). Brake fluid reservoir. - If the play can not be established by adjusting the cable, remove the cable protection from the throttle, adjust this using a tensioning device at the end of the cable, tighten the lock nut and refit the protection.
CLUTCH Proper clutch lever play is 2-3 mm. Play increases with the clutch wear and thus requires adjustment. When there is too much play, first try to adjust the level of the clutch lever. Tighten the adjustment bolt to obtain the optimal play.
THE EXHAUST SYSTEM The exhaust and the silencer reduce noise and carry the gasses away from the driver. If the exhaust is damaged, rusted, dented or split then change it. Change the silencer packing if the noise begins to be too loud or if the engine performance drops. Changing the silencer
- Release the exhaust flange.
(A). Silencer. (B). Silencer attachment bolts. (A). Clutch Lever. (B). Clutch cylinder piston rod. (C). Hydraulic fluid tank. If the adjustment of the clutch lever has reached its limit, then play must be adjusted by the clutch cylinder piston rod.
Changing the silencer packing - Remove the cover rivets (A). - Extract the silencer cover (B). - Pull out the inner silencer. - Change the silencer packing by wrapping around the inner tube. - Refit the assembly.

Lubrication is necessary after riding through rain or in the mud, or any time that the chain appears dry. A heavy oil is preferred to a lighter oil because it will stay on the chain longer and provide better lubrication.
Apply oil to the side of the links so that it will penetrate better. Wipe off any excess oil.
Tighten the bolts securely; first the forward bolts then the rear, to a torque of 25 Nm. If the handlebar is correctly installed, there will be a minimal gap at the front and rear of the clamp after tightening (A).
(A). Apply oil. HANDLEBARS To suit various riding positions, the handlebar position can be adjusted front to rear. Handlebar position adjustment

BRAKES

Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compensated for and has no effect on the brake lever or pedal action. So there are no parts that require adjustment on the brakes except brake lever play and the brake pedal position and play.
Loosen the handlebar holder bolts (B), of the handlebar holder (A) then rotate bars to desired position.
Front brake lever Adjust brake lever to a comfortable position. To adjust, loosen the nut under the rubber protection (B). Tighten after adjustment. Ensure that the brake responds correctly.
(A). Brake pedal. (B). 10 mm of play.
(A). Brake lever. (B). Rubber protection. WARNING If the brake lever or pedal feels mushy when it is applied, there might be air in the brake lines or the brake may be defective. Since it is dangerous to operate the motorcycle under such conditions, check the brakes immediately.
Rear brake pedal When the brake pedal is in rest position, there should be a play of 10 mm. If not, then adjust this. Ensure that the brake responds correctly and does not rub. To adjust the pedal play, loosen the locknut, rotate the bolt and retighten the locknut.
Brake fluid Regularly check the brake fluid and periodically change it. It should also be changed if it is contaminated by water or dirt.
Recommended liquid Use D.O.T 3 or D.O.T 4 Fluid level inspection The front (A) and rear (B) reservoirs must be kept more than half full with brake fluid. If the amount of brake fluid is insufficient, add brake fluid.
CAUTION Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted surface. Do not use fluid from a container that has been left open or that has been unsealed for a long time. Check for fluid leakage around the fittings. Check for brake line damage. WARNING Do not mix brands of fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line completely if the brake fluid must be refilled with a type other than the brake fluid already in the reservoirs. Brake Wear Inspection
If the thickness of either pad is less than 1 mm, replace both pads in the calliper as a set. Pad replacement should be done by an authorized GAS GAS dealer. STEERING The steering should always be kept adjusted so that the handlebar will turn freely but without excessive play.

To check the steering adjustment, lift the bike off the ground using a stand underneath the chassis. Push the handlebar lightly to either side; if it continues moving under its own momentum, the steering is not too tight. Squatting in front of the motorcycle, grasp the lower ends of the front fork at the axle, and push and pull the bottom end of the front fork back and forth; if play is felt, the steering is too loose. If the steering needs adjustment - Using the stand under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle. - Place a stand or block under the engine to raise the front wheel off the ground. - Remove the foam protector. - Remove the handlebar by loosening the handlebar clamp bolts (A).
- Install the upper suspension plate (D). - Tighten the steering stem nut (B), the washers and bolts on the front forks to the correct torque. Steering head nut: 44 Nm (4.5 Kgm) Suspension plate bolts: 22 Nm (2.25 Kgm) - Recheck the steering and readjust if necessary. - Refit all removed parts. STEERING LOCK This mechanism allows us to lock the steering. It is located on the steering tube. The handlebars must be turned to the right completely, then insert the key, rotate left, press, rotate right and take the key out.
- Loosen the steering stem bolt (B). - Loosen the bolts for the upper suspension plate and remove it (C). - Rotate the steering adjustment bolt using the special spanner in order to obtain the appropriate adjustment.

(A). Steering lock.

CAUTION Never leave the key in the lock. If the steering is turned to the left with the key in the lock then this will be severely damaged. FRONT FORKS The front fork should always be adjusted for the rider's weight and track conditions. The adjustments are done in 5 stages: - Air pressure: affects the entire range of fork stroke. The air pressure increases when the forks heat up, or, as operation time increases. We don't recommend using air pressure as the forks are designed to work without adding any air. - Rebound and compression dampening adjustment: This adjustment affects the speed of the rebound. The fork rebound dampening adjustment has 18 positions. The tightened position is completely hard. The position 12 from the closed position is the standard and the position 18 is totally soft. - Oil level adjustment: The effects of higher or lower fork oil level are only felt during the final 100 mm of fork stroke. A higher oil level will make the fork rebound more quickly. A lower oil level will make the fork rebound more slowly. - Fork springs: Optional springs are available that are softer and stiffer than standard K=4.5.

NOTE A soldered area on the rim may give an excessive reading. Ignore this while measuring the centring.
Cleaning 1- Preparation for cleaning Before cleaning the motorcycle must be prepared so that water does not penetrate certain areas of the bike. The exhaust: Once this is cold, cover it with a plastic bag attached with rubber. Clutch and brake levers, grips and stop button: cover with a plastic bag. Air filter intake: cover this with insulation tape or a cloth.
3- After cleaning - Remove the plastic bags and clean the air filter intake. - Lubricate the locations listed in the lubrication section. - Start the engine and let it heat for 5 minutes. - Check the brakes before driving the bike. WARNING Never wax or lubricate the brake disk, this could lead to brake failure and could provoke an accident. Clean the disk using trichloroethylene or acetone.
2- Where to be careful Avoid spraying water with any great force near the following places: Disc brake master cylinders and callipers; under the fuel tank (If water gets into the ignition coil or into the spark plug cap, the spark will jump through the water and be grounded out; the affected parts must be dried). Front and rear hubs. Steering pivots (steering tube). Rear suspension system. Swing arm pivots.
Tighten bolts and nuts Every day before using the bike, rapidly ensure that all bolts and nuts are tightened. Also make certain that all of the other fastenings are in place and in good condition.
1- Front and rear wheels 2- Front forks 3- Handle bars 4- Clutch lever support bolt 6- Air filter housing bolts 7- Seat support bolts 8- Spokes

9- Disk plate screws

10- Front axle bolt 11- Brake attachment bolt 12- Sub chassis support bolt 13- Radiator support bolts 14- Nuts and bolts of the engine mounting 15- Shift pedal bolts 16- Chain guide bolts 17- Chain adjust bolt -40-

18- Rear axle bolt

19- Silencer support bolts 20- Sub chassis bolts 21- Rear shock bolts 22- Exhaust flange bolt 23- Upper suspension plate bolts 24- Steering head nut 25- Brake lever support bolt 26- Rod support bolt
27- Rear brake pedal bolt 28- Rod support bolt Rocker 29- Rocker arm bolt

TIGHTENING TORQUE TABLE Tighten all of the bolts and nuts using the correct spanners. If not correctly tightened then motorcycle damage or even an accident could occur. PART NAME Nm Kgm

E N G I N E

C H A S S I S
Engine drain plug Kick pedal bolt Kick pedal nut Shift pedal bolt Spark plug Water pump cover drain plug Calliper mounting bolts Disc plate mounting screws Engine mounting bolts Front axle bolt Front brake lever support bolt Fork flange bolt Steering nut Rear axle nut Rear brake pedal bolt Sub frame support bolt Rear shock absorber bolt Rear disc wheel drive bolt Spokes Steering axle bolt Rocker arm bolt Rod bolt
2,0 2,0 2,5 1,0 1,0 0,9 2,5 1,1 3,6 5,1 0,6 3,0 10,0 10,0 0,9 2,7 4,0 3,0 0,15 4,5 8,3 8,3
LUBRICATION Lubricate the points shown here, with either motor oil or regular grease, periodically or whenever the vehicle is wet, and especially after using a high-pressure spray washer. Before lubricating each part, clean off any rusty spots with rust remover and wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime. General lubrication - Clutch lever (A). - Front brake lever (B). - Rear brake pedal (C). - Rear brake bearing (D). - Shift pedal (E).
Use an aerosol with a pressure tube to lubricate
Use grease on the inner throttle cable
Chain lubrication Lubricate the chain after wet terrain or when the chain looks dry. A high viscosity oil rather than low viscosity oil is better because it will stay a long time in chain providing lubrication. Put oil on the sides of the chain rollers (A) so that it penetrates into these; remove excess oil.
The recommended viscosity is SAE 5 W-40; if an SAE 5 W-40 oil is not possible use an alternative according to the table above. Checking the oil level and making the changes periodically are two very important operations to keep the engine in perfect shape. Initially replace the oil after 5 hours of operation and then every 60 hours. NOTE The engine oil expands and thus the level increases when it is hot. Check and adjust the level when the motor oil is not hot.
(A). Greasing. ENGINE OIL Use a premium 4-stroke engine oil to lengthen the life of your motorcycle. Use oil classification SF or SG under the API classification.
Changing the oil and filter The oil should be changed when the engine is hot, since this helps the oil to go out through the drain located in the lowest part of the engine.
The engine oil and the exhaust manifold can be very hot and cause burns. Wait until the oil and the exhaust manifold are a little cooler.
WARNING Engine oil is a health risk. Avoid any contact with this given that this could provoke irritations and, in the worst cases, skin cancer.

(2). Following a day of competition 1. Clean the air filter 2. Adjust the chain tension / slack 3. Tighten the bolts of the rear sprocket 4. Tighten spokes 5. Check the tyre pressure 6. Tighten the front and rear axle nuts 7. Tighten the swinging arm nut 8. Tighten the nuts and bolts of the exhaust and silencer 9. Tighten the nuts and bolts of the mudguard support 10. Tighten the nuts and bolts of the tank seat 11. Check the brakes 12. Check steering play 13. Fill the tank 14. Check the coolant level (3) After racing on dusty terrain If dirt or dust gets through into the engine, the crankshaft will wear excessively. After riding, inspect the crankshaft. If the crankshaft is worn past the service limit, replace the crankshaft with a new one. (4) Maintenance notice for after riding in rain on muddy course 1. Apply grease to swing arm pivot and rear suspension system. 2. Inspect the drive chain and rear sprocket for wear. 3. Clean the pinion and rear sprocket. 4. Check the piston-cylinder and crankshaft bearing. 5. Grease the throttle control and cable. (5) Suggested spare parts Consult the parts manual.
STORAGE When the motorcycle is to be stored for any length of time, it should be prepared for storage as follows: Clean the entire vehicle thoroughly. Run the engine for about five minutes to warm the oil, shut it off and drain the transmission oil. - Put in fresh transmission oil. Empty the fuel from the fuel tank, and empty the carburettor float bowl. (If left in for a long time, the fuel will deteriorate). - Disconnect the battery. - Lubricate the drive chain and all the cables. - Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces to prevent rusting. Avoid getting oil on rubber parts or in the brakes. - Set the motorcycle on a box or stand so that both wheels are raised off the ground. (If this cannot be done, put boards under the front and rear wheels to keep dampness away from the tire rubber). - Tie a plastic bag over the exhaust pipe to prevent moisture from entering. - Put a cover over the motorcycle to keep dust and dirt from collecting on it. To put the motorcycle back into use after storage. - Remove plastic bag from exhaust. - Make sure the spark plug is tight. - Fill the fuel tank with fuel. - Check all the points listed in the Daily Pre-ride Inspection Section. - General lubrication - Connect the battery.

Selecting the values for the wheel circumference Enter the value for the wheel circumference by pressing button 1 in succession. To go on to the next digit, press button 3. Confirm by pressing button 2. Note: If you do not know the value of the wheel circumference, see the section on "Measuring the wheel circumference"
Selecting the time format To change between the 12 and 24 hour clock, press button 1. Confirm by pressing button 2.
Setting the time Enter the value for the time by pressing button 1 in succession. To go on to the next digit, press button 3. Confirm by pressing button 2.
Setting the pulse per revolution (PPR) The gauge receives one electrical pulse for each revolution on the engine (PPR). Default value for 2 and 4 stroke engines: 1 PPR. Enter the value by pressing button 1 in succession. To go on to the next digit, press button 3. Confirm by pressing button 2.
Setting the pulse per revolution (PPR) Note: This step is only to be taken on vehicles that change the type of PPR pulse at a specific number of rpm. If you do not know this value, press button 2 to go on to the next screen. Enter the value by pressing button 1 in succession. To go on to the next digit, press button 3. Confirm by pressing button 2.
Setting the pulse per revolution (PPR) Note: This step is only to be taken if a value of 0 was entered in the previous step. Default value: 1.0 If you do not know this value, press button 2 to go on to the next screen. Enter the value by pressing button 1 in succession. To go on to the next digit, press button 3. Confirm by pressing button 2.
Selecting the temperature unit To change the temperature display between C and F, press button 1. Confirm by pressing button 2.
Selecting the warning temperature Note: This step can only be taken on vehicles fitted with the optional temperature sensor. When the engine temperature exceeds the set value, the warning LED on the left lights up. Default value: 90 C (190F) Enter the value by pressing button 1 in succession. To go on to the next digit, press button 3. Confirm by pressing button 2.
Selecting the danger temperature Note: This step can only be taken on vehicles fitted with the optional temperature sensor. When the engine temperature exceeds the set value, the warning LED on the right lights up. Default value: 110 C (230F) Enter the value by pressing button 1 in succession. To go on to the next digit, press button 3. Confirm by pressing button 2.
Selecting the rpm for a gear change When the set rpm is reached, the left-hand warning LED flashes to show that the gear must be changed. Default value: 6000 rpm Enter the value by pressing button 1 in succession. To go on to the next digit, press button 3. Confirm by pressing button 2.
Selecting the danger rpm When the set rpm is reached, the right-hand warning LED flashes to show that the rpm on the engine are too high. Default value: 10000 rpm Enter the value by pressing button 1 in succession. To go on to the next digit, press button 3. Confirm by pressing button 2.

The engine starts but does not stop

The engine overheats

- Insufficient coolant in the circuit. - The radiator is soiled or partially obstructed. - Injection system maladjustment. (Trim Epprom). - Valve adjustment incorrect. - Fuel supply faulty. - Air filter obstruction. - Exhaust deteriorated with leaks. - Valve set too small. - Decompression maladjusted.
The engine does not run smoothly
- Adjust the injection system. Go to a specialist workshop. - Adjust the valve play. Go to a specialist workshop. - Clean and check fuel system.
The engine is under powerful or accelerates badly.
- Clean or change the air filter. - Check if the exhaust system is damaged, change the glass fibre in the silencer if necessary. - Adjust the valve play. Go to a specialist workshop. - Verify the operation of the system.

High oil consumption

- Piston-cylinder ring diameter tolerance excessive.
- Adjust the tolerance by changing the piston rings.

8 High oil consumption

- There is too much engine oil. - The quality or viscosity of the oil is insufficient.
Correct the engine oil level. Drain oil as necessary from the engine. - Empty the engine oil and fill with oil of the recommended viscosity. - Go to a specialist workshop. - Adjust the valve play. Go to a specialist workshop. - See chapter 5. - Clean the combustion chamber. - Go to a specialist workshop. - Drain the petrol and fill with fresh or higher octane petrol. - Change spark plug for a new one or recommended one. - Check if the exhaust system is deteriorated. The seals must be in perfect condition, if not then they must be changed for new ones.

Abnormal engine noise

- Ignition problems. - Valve adjustment play. - Over heating.
Detonations in the exhaust
- Carbon in combustion chamber. - Injection system maladjustment. (Trim Epprom). - Incorrect or poor gasoline or wrong octane rating. - Incorrect or non-specified spark plug. - Exhaust system joints deteriorated.
White fumes from the exhaust Brown fumes from the exhaust The gears do not engage
- Cylinder head gasket leak (water leaking into cylinder). - Air filter obstruction. - Clutch does not release. - Shift fork worn or locked. - Gear locked in transmission. - Shift lever damaged. - Selector position spring broken or loose.

- Change the cylinder head gasket. Go to a specialist workshop. - Clean or change the air filter. Go to a specialist workshop. - Go to a specialist workshop. - Change the gear fork. - Go to a specialist workshop. - Change the gear lever. - Adjust the selector position spring or change it.

13 Gears dont engage

- The spring of the selector is broken. - Cylinder change if broken. - Gear ratchet spring broken. - Gear change fork damaged in the gears. - Gear teeth worn. - Gear nipple damaged. - Groove gear drum worn. - Gear change fork pivot worn. - No play in the clutch handle. - Clutch plate worn. - Clutch housing worn. - Clutch spring broken or weak. - Clutch plates worn.
- Replace the down selector mechanism spring. - Replace the gear drum. - Replace the ratchet spring of the selector. - Change gear fork. - Change. Go to a specialist workshop. - Change. Go to a specialist workshop. - Change. Go to a specialist workshop. - Change shaft. Go to a specialist workshop. - Go to a specialist workshop. - Replace the clutch plate. Go to a specialist workshop. - Replace the clutch hub. - Adjust the selector position spring or change it. - Change the clutch disks. Go to a specialist workshop.

Gears jump

Clutch slipping

Bike unstable

- Cable obstructs handlebars. - Steering shaft nut too tight. - Steering bearings damaged or worn. - Steering shaft bent.
- Put the cable to one side and release it a little. - Undo the steering shaft nut. - Replace the steering bearing. - Change the steering shaft. Go to a specialist workshop - Eliminate the excess oil to an adequate level. - Empty the fork oil and fill with oil of the recommended viscosity. - Change front fork. Go to a specialist workshop. - Verify tyre pressure.
Shock absorption too hard
- Front forks excess oil. - Front fork oil viscosity too high. - Front forks twisted. - Excessive tyre pressure.
Shock absorption too hard Shock absorption too soft
- Rear shock badly adjusted - Front forks low oil. - Front fork oil viscosity too low. - Front forks twisted. - Low tyre pressure. - Rear shock absorber maladjusted.
- Adjust the rear shock. - Add oil to the forks as required. - Empty the fork oil and fill with oil of the recommended viscosity. - Change front fork. Go to a specialist workshop. - Verify tyre pressure. - Adjust the rear shock. - Adjust the chain. - Change the chain, rear sprocket and secondary transmission pinion. - Change the rear sprocket. - Lubricate using a correct chain lubricant. - Align the rear wheel. Go to a specialist workshop. - Add oil to the forks as required. - Replace the front fork spring. - Replace the brake disk. - Refit the pads or change them. - Replace the damaged cylinder. - Verify and adjust to the correct tightening torques. - Change worn parts. - Centre the rim. - Verify the tension of the wheel spokes. Re-adjust if necessary. - Check the distance between steering shafts and adjust if necessary. - Tighten the handlebar bracket and the steering shaft bolt to the correct tightening torques.