Personal protective equipment
WARNING! Most chain saw accidents happen when the chain touches the operator. You must use approved personal protective equipment whenever you use the machine. Personal protective equipment cannot eliminate the risk of injury but it will reduce the degree of injury if an accident does happen. Ask your dealer for help in choosing the right equipment.
Chain brake and front hand guard
Your chain saw is equipped with a chain brake that is designed to stop the chain if you get a kickback. The chain brake reduces the risk of accidents, but only you can prevent them.
Approved protective helmet Hearing protection Protective goggles or a visor Gloves with saw protection Trousers with saw protection Boots with saw protection, steel toe-cap and non-slip sole Always have a rst aid kit nearby. Take care when using your saw and make sure the kickback zone of the bar never touches any object.
The chain brake (A) can either be activated manually (by your left hand) or automatically by the inertia release mechanism. The brake is applied when the front hand guard (B) is pushed forwards. To release the chain brake pull the front hand guard backwards, towards the front handle.
This movement activates a spring-loaded mechanism that tightens the brake band (C) around the engine drive system (D) (clutch drum).
Kickback can be very sudden and violent. Most kickbacks are minor and do not always activate the chain brake. If this happens you should hold the chain saw rmly and not let go.
The front hand guard is not designed solely to activate the chain brake. Another important feature is that it reduces the risk of the chain hitting your left hand if you lose grip of the front handle.
The way the chain brake is activated, either manually or automatically by the inertia release mechanism, depends on the force of the kickback and the position of the chain saw in relation to the object that the kickback zone of the bar strikes. If you get a violent kickback while the kickback zone of the bar is farthest away from you the chain brake is designed to be activated by the inertia in the kickback direction.
The chain brake must be engaged when the chain saw is started to prevent the saw chain from rotating.

Will my inetria activated chain brake always activate during kickback in the event of a kickback?
No. First your brake must be in working order. Testing the brake is simple, see instructions under the heading Checking, maintaining and servicing chain saw safety equipment. We recommend you do before you begin each work session. Second the kickback must be strong enough to activate the chain brake. If the chain brake is too sensitive it would activate all the time which would be a nuisance.

Right hand guard

Apart from protecting your hand if the chain jumps or snaps, the right hand guard stops branches and twigs from interfering with your grip on the rear handle.
Will my chain brake always protect me from injury in the event of a kickback?
No. First, the chain brake must be in working order to provide the intended protection. Second, it must be activated during the kickback as described above to stop the saw chain. Third, the chain brake may be activated but if the bar is to close to you the brake might not have enough time to slow down and stop the chain before the chain saw hits you. Only you and proper working technique can eliminate kickback and its danger.

Vibration damping system

Your machine is equipped with a vibration damping system that is designed to reduce vibration and make operation easier.
The machines vibration damping system reduces the transfer of vibration between the engine unit/cutting equipment and the machines handle unit.
The body of the chain saw, including the cutting equipment, is insulated from the handles by vibration damping units. In areas with a hot, dry climate there is a high risk of res. These areas are sometimes subject to government rules requiring among other things the mufer must be equipped with an approved type of spark arrestor mesh.
Cutting hardwoods (most broadleaf trees) creates more vibration than cutting softwoods (most conifers). Cutting with cutting equipment that is blunt or faulty (wrong type or badly sharpened) will increase the vibration level.
CAUTION! The mufer gets very hot during and after use. This also applies during idling. Be aware of the re hazard, especially when working near ammable substances and/ or vapours.
WARNING! Overexposure to vibration can lead to circulatory damage or nerve damage in people who have impaired circulation. Contact your doctor if you experience symptoms of overexposure to vibration. Such symptoms include numbness, loss of feeling, tingling, pricking, pain, loss of strength, changes in skin colour or condition. These symptoms normally appear in the ngers, hands or wrists. These symptoms may be increased in cold temperatures.
WARNING! Never use a saw without a mufer, or with a damaged mufer. A damaged mufer may substantially increase the noise level and the re hazard. Keep re ghting equipment handy. If a spark arrestor screen is required in your area, never use the saw without or with a broken spark arrestor screen.

Environment fuel

HUSQVARNA recommends the use of alkylate fuel or environmental fuel for four-stroke engines blended with twostroke oil as set out below. Note that carburetor adjustment may be necessary when changing the type of fuel (see instructions under the heading Carburetor).

Running-in

Avoid running at a too high speed for extended periods during the rst 10 hours.
We recommend the use of special oil (chain oil) with good adhesion characteristics.

Two-stroke oil

For best results and performance use HUSQVARNA twostroke engine oil, which is specially formulated for our aircooled two stroke-engines. Never use two-stroke oil intended for water-cooled engines, sometimes referred to as outboard oil (rated TCW). Never use oil intended for four-stroke engines.
Never use waste oil. This results in damage to the oil pump, the bar and the chain. It is important to use oil of the right grade (suitable viscosity range) to suit the air temperature. In temperatures below 0C (32F) some oils become too viscous. This can overload the oil pump and result in damage to the oil pump components. Contact your service agent when choosing chain oil.

Fueling

Never start the machine: If you have spilt fuel or chain oil on the machine. Wipe off the spillage and allow remaining fuel to evaporate. If you have spilt fuel on yourself or your clothes, change your clothes. Wash any part of your body that has come in contact with fuel. Use soap and water. If the machine is leaking fuel. Check regularly for leaks from the fuel cap and fuel lines. WARNING! Never use a machine with visible damage to the spark plug guard and ignition cable. A risk of sparking arises, which can cause a re.
WARNING! Taking the following precautions, will lessen the risk of re: Do not smoke and do not place any hot objects in the vicinity of fuel. Always stop the engine and let it cool for a few minutes before refuelling. When refuelling, open the fuel cap slowly so that any excess pressure is released gently. Tighten the fuel cap carefully after refuelling. Always move the machine away from the refuelling area before starting.

Transport and storage

Always store the chain saw and fuel so that there is no risk of leakages or fumes coming into contact with sparks or naked ames from electrical equipment, electric motors, relays/switches, boilers and the like. Always store fuel in an approved container designed for that purpose. For longer periods of storage or for transport of the chain saw, the fuel and chain oil tanks should be emptied. Ask where you can dispose of waste fuel and chain oil at your local gas station. Ensure the machine is cleaned and that a complete service is carried out before long-term storage. The bar guard must always be tted to the cutting attachment when the machine is being transported or in storage, in order to prevent accident contact with the sharp chain. Even a non-moving chain can cause serious cuts to yourself or persons you bump into with an exposed chain.

If the machine is tted with a decompression valve (A): Press the valve to reduce the pressure in the cylinder and make starting easier. You should always use the decompression valve when starting the machine. Once the machine has started the valve will automatically return to its original setting.
Note! Pull the front hand guard towards the front handle. The chain brake is now disengaged. Your saw is ready for use. Always hold the saw with both hands. The right hand should be on the rear handle, and the left hand on the front handle. All people, whether right or left handed, should use this grip. Use a rm grip with thumbs and ngers encircling the chain saw handles.
Never start a chain saw unless the bar, chain and all covers are tted correctly. See instructions under the heading Assembly. Without a bar and chain attached to the chain saw the clutch can come loose and cause serious injury.

Stopping

The chain brake should be activated when starting. Se instructions under the heading Start and stop. Do not drop start. This method is very dangerous because you may lose control of the saw.
The engine is stopped by pushing the stop switch to the stop position.
Never start the machine indoors. Exhaust fumes can be dangerous if inhaled. Observe your surroundings and make sure that there is no risk of people or animals coming into contact with the cutting equipment.

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WORKING TECHNIQUES

Before use:

Basic safety rules
Look around you: To ensure that people, animals or other things cannot affect your control of the machine. To make sure that none of the above might come within reach of your saw or be injured by falling trees.
Check that the chain brake works correctly and is not damaged. Check that the rear right hand guard is not damaged. Check that the throttle lock works correctly and is not damaged. Check that the stop switch works correctly and is not damaged. Check that all handles are free from oil. Check that the anti vibration system works and is not damaged. Check that the mufer is securely attached and not damaged. Check that all parts of the chain saw are tightened correctly and that they are not damaged or missing. Check that the chain catcher is in place and not damaged. 3

CAUTION! Follow the instructions above, but do not use a chain saw in a situation where you cannot call for help in case of an accident. 2 Do not use the machine in bad weather, such as dense fog, heavy rain, strong wind, intense cold, etc. Working in bad weather is tiring and often brings added risks, such as icy ground, unpredictable felling direction, etc. Take great care when removing small branches and avoid cutting bushes (i.e. cutting many small branches at the same time). Small branches can be grabbed by the chain and thrown back at you, causing serious injury.
10 Check the chain tension.
General working instructions
IMPORTANT! This section describes basic safety rules for using a chain saw. This information is never a substitute for professional skills and experience. If you get into a situation where you feel unsafe, stop and seek expert advice. Contact your chain saw dealer, service agent or an experienced chain saw user. Do not attempt any task that you are not sure you can handle! Before using a chain saw you must understand the effects of kickback and how to avoid them. See instructions under the heading How to avoid kickback. Before using a chain saw you must understand the difference between cutting with the top and bottom edges of the bar. See instructions under the headings How to avoid kickback and Machines safety equipment. Wear personal protective equipment. See instructions under the heading Personal protective equipment. 4 Make sure you can move and stand safely. Check the area around you for possible obstacles (roots, rocks, branches, ditches, etc.) in case you have to move suddenly. Take great care when working on sloping ground.
5 Take great care when cutting a tree that is under tension. A tree that is under tension may spring back to its normal position before or after being cut. If you position yourself incorrectly or make the cut in the wrong place the tree may hit you or the machine and cause you to lose control. Both situations can cause serious personal injury. 3 Most kickback accidents happen during limbing. Make sure you are standing rmly and that there is nothing in the way that might make you trip or lose your balance. Lack of concentration can lead to kickback if the kickback zone of the bar accidentally touches a branch, nearby tree or some other object.

Limbing

When limbing thick branches you should use the same approach as for cutting. Cut difcult branches piece by piece. If it is possible (can you turn the log?) stop cutting about 2/3 of the way through the log.
Turn the log and nish the cut from the opposite side.

Cutting

WARNING! Never attempt to cut logs while they are in a pile or when a couple of logs are lying together. Such procedures drastically increase the risk of kickback which can result in a serious or fatal injury.
The log is supported at one end. There is a high risk that it will split.
Start by cutting from below (about 1/3 of the way through). If you have a pile of logs, each log you attempt to cut should be removed from the pile, placed on a saw horse or runners and cut individually. Remove the cut pieces from the cutting area. By leaving them in the cutting area, you increase the risk for inadvertently getting a kickback, as well as increasing the risk of losing your balance while working.
Finish by cutting from above so that the two cuts meet.
The log is supported at both ends. There is a high risk that the chain will jam.
Start by cutting from above (about 1/3 of the way through).
The log is lying on the ground. There is little risk of the chain jamming or the object splitting. However there is a risk that the chain will touch the ground when you nish the cut.
Finish by cutting from below so that the two cuts meet.
Cut all the way through the log from above. Avoid letting the chain touch the ground as you nish the cut. Maintain full throttle but be prepared for what might happen.

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Tree felling technique
IMPORTANT! It takes a lot of experience to fell a tree. Inexperienced users of chain saws should not fell trees. Do not attempt any task beyond your experience level! The main point to avoid is letting the tree fall onto another tree. It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and there is high accident risk. See instructions under the heading Freeing a tree that has fallen badly.

Safe distance

The safe distance between a tree that is to be felled and anyone else working nearby is at least 2 1/2 tree lengths. Make sure that no-one else is in this risk zone before or during felling.
IMPORTANT! During critical felling operations, hearing protectors should be lifted immediately when sawing is completed so that sounds and warning signals can be heard.

Felling direction

The aim is to fell the tree in a position where you can limb and cross-cut the log as easily as possible. You want it to fall in a location where you can stand and move about safely. Once you have decided which way you want the tree to fall you must judge which way the tree would fall naturally. Several factors affect this: Lean of the tree Bend Wind direction Arrangement of branches Weight of snow Obstacles within the reach of the tree: for example, other trees, power lines, roads and buildings. Look for signs of damage and rot in the stem, this makes it more probably that the tree will break and start to fall before you expect it to.

The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at right angles (90) to the chosen felling direction.
When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the tree should start to fall by itself or with the aid of a felling wedge or breaking bar.

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We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the diameter of the tree, so that you can make the felling cut and directional cuts with single cutting strokes. See instructions under the heading Technical data section to nd out which lengths of bar are recommended for your saw. The safest method is to use a winch. Tractor-mounted

Portable

There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger than the bar length. However these methods involve a much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will come into contact with the tree.
Cutting trees and branches that are in tension
Preparations: Work out which side is in tension and where the point of maximum tension is (i.e. where it would break if it was bent even more).
Freeing a tree that has fallen badly

Freeing a trapped tree

It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and there is high accident risk. Never try to fell the tree that is trapped.
Decide which is the safest way to release the tension and whether you are able to do it safely. In complicated situations the only safe method is to put aside your chain saw and use a winch.

General advice:

Position yourself so that you will be clear of the tree or branch when the tension is released.
Make one or more cuts at or near the point of maximum tension. Make as many cuts of sufcient depth as necessary to reduce the tension and make the tree or branch break at the point of maximum tension.
Never work in the risk zone of the hanging trapped tree. Never cut straight through a tree or branch that is in tension! If you must cut across tree/limb, make two to three cuts, one inch apart, one to two inches deep.
Continue to cut deeper until tree/limb bends and tension is released.
Cut tree/limb from outside the bend, after tension has been released.

How to avoid kickback

WARNING! A majority of kickback accidents occur during limbing. Do not use the kickback zone of the guide bar. Be extremely cautious and avoid contacting the log, other limbs or objects with the nose of the guide bar. Be extremely cautious of limbs under tension. They can spring back toward you and cause loss of control resulting in injury.
WARNING! Kickback can happen very suddenly and violently; kicking the chain saw, bar and chain back at the user. If this happens when the chain is moving it can cause very serious, even fatal injuries. It is vital you understand what causes kickback and that you can avoid it by taking care and using the right working technique.

Move the front hand guard forwards and back to make sure it moves freely and that it is securely anchored to the clutch cover.
Apply full throttle and activate the chain brake by tilting your left wrist forward onto the front hand guard. Do not let go of the front handle. The chain should stop immediately.

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Throttle lock Right hand guard
Make sure the throttle control is locked at the idle setting when the throttle lock is released.
Check that the right hand guard is not damaged and that there are no visible defects, such as cracks.
Press the throttle lock and make sure it returns to its original position when you release it.
Regularly check the vibration damping units for cracks or deformation. Check that the throttle control and throttle lock move freely and that the return springs work properly.
Make sure the vibration damping units are securely attached to the engine unit and handle unit.
Start the chain saw and apply full throttle. Release the throttle control and check that the chain stops and remains stationary. If the chain rotates when the throttle control is in the idle position you should check the carburetor idle adjustment.
Start the engine and make sure the engine stops when you move the stop switch to the stop setting. Check that the chain catcher is not damaged and is rmly attached to the body of the chain saw.

Mufer Starter

Never use a machine that has a faulty mufer.
WARNING! When the recoil spring is wound up in the starter housing it is under tension and can, if handled carelessly, pop out and cause personal injury. Care must be exercised when replacing the return spring or the starter cord. Wear protective glasses and protective gloves.
Changing a broken or worn starter cord
Regularly check that the mufer is securely attached to the machine.
Loosen the screws that hold the starter against the crankcase and remove the starter.
Some mufers are equipped with a special spark arrestor mesh. If your machine has this type of mufer, you should clean the mesh at least once a week. This is best done with a wire brush. A blocked mesh will cause the engine to overheat and may lead to serious damage. Note! The mesh must be replaced if it is damaged. If the mesh is blocked the machine will overheat and this will cause damage to the cylinder and piston. Never use a machine with a mufer that is in poor condition. Never use a mufer if the spark arrestor mesh is missing or defective.

Pull out the cord approx. 30 cm (12 inches) and hook it into the notch in the rim of the pulley. Release the recoil spring by letting the pulley rotate slowly backwards.
Undo the screw in the centre of the pulley and remove the pulley. Insert and fasten a new starter cord to the pulley. Wind approx. 3 turns of the starter cord onto the pulley. Connect the pulley to the recoil spring so that the end of the spring engages in the pulley. Fit the screw in the center of the pulley. Insert the starter cord through the hole in the starter housing and the starter handle. Make a secure knot in the end of the starter cord.
The mufer is designed to reduce the noise level and to direct the exhaust gases away from the operator. The exhaust gases are hot and can contain sparks, which may cause re if directed against dry and combustible material. A mufer equipped with a catalytic converter signicantly reduces the amount of hydrocarbons (HC), nitrogen oxides (NO) and aldehydes in the exhaust fumes. Carbon monoxide (CO), which is poisonous and odorless, is not however reduced! Consequently, never work in an enclosed or badly ventilated area. Good air circulation should always prevail when working in snowy hollows, ravines or in conned conditions.

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Tensioning the recoil spring
Hook the starter cord in the notch in the pulley and turn the starter pulley about 2 turns clockwise. Note! Check that the pulley can be turned an additional 1/ 2 turn when the starter cord is pulled all the way out. The air lter must be regularly cleaned to remove dust and dirt in order to avoid: Carburettor malfunctions Starting problems Loss of engine power Unnecessary wear to engine parts Excessive fuel consumption. Remove the air lter after taking off the air lter cover. When retting make sure that the air lter seals tightly against the lter holder. Clean the lter by brushing or shaking it.

Air lter

Changing a broken recoil spring
Lift up the starter pulley. See instructions under the heading Changing a broken or worn starter cord. Remember that the recoil spring is coiled under tension in the starter housing. Remove the cassette with the recoil spring from the starter. Lubricate the recoil spring with light oil. Fit the cassette with recoil spring in the starter. Fit the starter pulley and tension the recoil spring.

Heated handles

(357 XPG, 359 G) On models with the designation XPG/G, the front as well as the rear handle are equipped with electric heating coils. These are fed with electrical current from an integrated generator in the chain saw. When the switch is pushed downwards, the heat is switched on. When the switch is pushed upwards, the heat is switched off.
Temperature 0C (32F) or colder:
The cylinder cover is designed so it can be adjusted for running in cold weather. Twist the winter ap so that preheated air from the cylinder can pass into the carburetor space preventing icing of the air lter, etc.
Electrical carburetor heating
(357 XPG, 359 G) On models with the designation CARBURETOR HEATING there is an electrically heated carburetor. Electrically powered heating prevents ice formation in the carburetor. A thermostat regulates the heating so that the carburetor always has the right working temperature.

Maintenance schedule

The following is a list of the maintenance that must be performed on the machine. Most of the items are described in the Maintenance section. Daily maintenance Clean the outside of the machine. Weekly maintenance On chain saws without a catalytic converter, check the cooling system weekly. Monthly maintenance Check the brake band on the chain brake for wear. Replace when less than 0.6 mm (0,024 inch) remains at the most worn point.
Check that the components of the throttle Check the starter, starter cord and return Check the clutch centre, clutch drum and control work safely. (Throttle lock and spring. clutch spring for wear. throttle control.) Clean the chain brake and check that it operates safely. Make sure that the chain Check that the vibration damping catcher is undamaged, and replace it if elements are not damaged. necessary. The bar should be turned daily for more even wear. Check the lubrication hole in the bar, to be sure it is not clogged. Clean Lubricate the clutch drum bearing. the bar groove. If the bar has a sprocket tip, this should be lubricated. Check that the bar and chain are getting sufcient oil. File off any burrs from the edges of the bar. Clean the spark plug. Check that the electrode gap is 0.5 mm (0,020 inch).
Clean the outside of the carburetor.
Check fuel hose for cracks or other damage. Change if necessary.
Check the saw chain with regard to visible cracks in the rivets and links, whether the Clean or replace the spark arrestor mesh saw chain is stiff or whether the rivets and Empty the fuel tank and clean the inside. on the mufer. links are abnormally worn. Replace if necessary. Sharpen the chain and check its tension and condition. Check the drive sprocket for excessive wear and replace if necessary. Clean the starter units air intake. Check that nuts and screws are tight. Check that the stop switch works correctly. Check that there are no fuel leaks from the engine, tank or fuel lines. On chain saws with a catalytic converter, check the cooling system daily. Clean the carburetor compartment. Clean the air lter. Replace if necessary. Empty the oil tank and clean the inside. Check all cables and connections.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Technical data

357XP Engine Cylinder displacement, cu.in/cm3 Cylinder bore, inch/mm Stroke, inch/mm Idle speed, rpm Power, kW/ rpm Ignition system Manufacturer of ignition system Type of ignition system Spark plug Electrode gap, inch/mm Fuel and lubrication system Manufacturer of carburetor Carburetor type Fuel tank capacity, US pint/litre Oil pump capacity at 9,000 rpm, ml/min Oil tank capacity, US pint/litre Type of oil pump Weight Chain saw without bar or chain, empty tanks, lb/kg Chain/bar Standard bar length, inch/cm Recommended bar lengths, inch/cm Usable cutting length, inches/cm Chain speed at max. power, m/sec Pitch, inch/mm Thickness of drive links, inch/mm Number of teeth on drive sprocket 15/38 13-24"/33-61 12-23"/31-58 21,4 0,325/8,25 3/8" /9,52 0,050/1,3 0,058/1,15/38 13-24"/33-61 12-23"/31-58 20,0 0,325/8,25 3/8" /9,52 0,050/1,3 0,058/1,12,1/5,5: 357 XP, 357 XP E-tech 12,3/5,6: 357 XPG, 357 XPG E-tech 12,1/5,5: 359, 359 E-tech 12,3/5,6: 359 G, 359 G E-tech Walbro HDA 199/191 1,43/0,68 6-17 0,80/0,38 Automatic Walbro HDA 199/191 1,43/0,68 6-17 0,80/0,38 Automatic SEM CD NGK BPMR 7A/ Champion RCJ 7Y 0,02/0,5 SEM CD NGK BPMR 7A/ Champion RCJ 7Y 0,02/0,5 3,45/56,5 1,81/46 1,34/34,3,2/9600 3,60/59,0 1,85/47 1,34/34,2,9/9000 359
Recommended original and replacement bar and chain combinations
Following is a list of recommended cutting equipment for the Husqvarna chain saw models 357XP and 359. The combinations of power head, bar and chain have been tested and found to be in accordance with the kickback and vibration requirements of ANSI B 175.12000. The guide bar nose radius is determined by either the maximum number of teeth in the nose sprocket or the corresponding maximum nose radius of a hard nose. The following list is the chain saw manufacturers recommendations. There may be other combinations available, which will also achieve kickback reduction. As we are listing the maximum guide bar nose radius, you may use a guide bar with smaller nose radius than in our list. For guide bars of the same length, all sprocket-nose guide bars of the same pitch and having the same number of sprocket teeth may be considered to have equivalent kickback energy. A hard nose bar having the same length and nose radius as a sprocket-nose bar may be considered to have equivalent or less kickback energy than the sprocket-nose bar.
Bar and chain combinations
Chain saw models Husqvarna 357XP and 359 met the kickback performance requirements of ANSI B 175.1-2000 when tested with the combinations of bars and saw chains listed below. The saw chain Husqvarna H30 is also classied as a low kickback saw chain since it met the requirements for low kickback saw chain outlined in ANSI B 175.1-2000. We recommend to use only the listed combinations of bars and chains for chain saw models Husqvarna 357XP and 359. Other chain saw models may not meet the kickback requirements when equipped with the listed bar and chain combinations. Bar Length, inch 24 Pitch, inch 0,325 0,325 0,325 0,325 0,325 0,325 0,325 0,325 0,325 0,325 3/8" 3/8" 3/8" 3/8" 3/8" Gauge, inch 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 Max. nose radius 10T 10T 10T 10T 12T 10T 10T 10T 10T 10T 11T 11T 11T 11T 11T Husqvarna H42 Husqvarna H30 Type Husqvarna H25 Chain Drive link count 84

Note: For the saw chains above (if available) you are free to choose between 0,050" or 0,058" gauge drive links for the corresponding bar, see the table below. 0,050 0,058 H30 H22 H25

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Saw chain ling and le gauges

7/32 /5,5

FEDERAL EMISSION CONTROL WARRANTY STATEMENT
YOUR WARRANTY RIGHTS AND OBLIGATIONS
The EPA (The US Environmental Protection Agency), Environment Canada and Husqvarna Forest & Garden are pleased to explain the emissions control system warranty on your 2001 and later small nonroad engine. In U.S. and Canada, new small nonroad engines must be designed, built and equipped to meet the federal stringent anti-smog standards. Husqvarna Forest & Garden must warrant the emission control system on your small nonroad engine for the period of time listed below provided there has been no abuse, neglect or improper maintenance of your unit. Your emission control system includes Parts such as the carburetor and the ignition system. Where a warrantable condition exists, Husqvarna Forest & Garden will repair your small nonroad engine at no cost to you. Expenses covered under warranty include diagnosis, parts and labor. Garden servicing dealer. If you have any questions regarding your warranty rights and responsibilities, you should contact your nearest authorized servicing dealer or call Husqvarna Forest & Garden at 1-800-487-5963. WARRANTY PERIOD Any warranted part which is not scheduled for replacement as required maintenance, or which is scheduled only for regular inspection to the effect of repair or replace as necessary shall be warranted for 2 years. Any warranted part which is scheduled for replacement as required maintenance shall be warranted for the period of time up to the rst scheduled replacement point for that part. DIAGNOSIS The owner shall not be charged for diagnostic labor which leads to the determination that a warranted part is defective, if the diagnostic work is performed at an approved Husqvarna Forest & Garden servicing dealer. CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES Husqvarna Forest & Garden may be liable for damages to other engine components caused by the failure of a warranted part still under warranty.
MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY COVERAGE
The 2001 and later small nonroad engines are warranted for two years. If any emission related part on you engine (as listed above) is defective, the part will be repaired or replaced by Husqvarna Forest & Garden.

WHAT IS NOT COVERED

All failures caused by abuse, neglect or improper maintenance are not covered.
ADD -ON OR MODIFIED PARTS
The use of add-on or modied parts can be grounds for disallowing a warranty claim. Husqvarna Forest & Garden is not liable to cover failures of warranted parts caused by the use of add-on or modied parts.
OWNERS WARRANTY RESPONSIBILITIES

With a basic understanding of kickback, you can reduce or eliminate the element of surprise. Sudden surprise contributes to accidents. Keep a good rm grip on the saw with both hands, the right hand on the rear handle, and the left hand on the front handle, when the engine is running. Use a rm grip with thumbs and ngers encircling the chain saw handles. A rm grip will help you reduce kickback and maintain control of the saw. Dont let go. Make sure that the area in which you are cutting is free from obstacles. Do not let the nose of the guide bar contact a log, branch, or any other obstacle which could be hit while you are operating the saw. Cut at high engine speeds. Do not overreach or cut above shoulder height. Follow manufacturers sharpening and maintenance instructions for the saw chain. Only use replacement bars and chains specied by the manufacturer or the equivalent.

z+R/Q5# z+R/Q5#

1150154-95

2007-05-14

Chainsaw Review
Simon Bowes takes his annual look at the chainsaw market
It is a difficult year for all of us in the harvesting part of the forest industry and so I am making a bit of a break from the usual review this time around. I am going to talk about the saws I use and why I use the particular models I do. For those of you who are perhaps new to my writing, I started life as a novice cutter in Yorkshire in the early 1980s just as PPE was being introduced. I began on a clearfell site, felling and converting Lodgepole pine for a local contractor who was one of the first to use a forwarder. Harvesters were a thing of the future and it was a while before we saw one in our local FC district. I used Husqvarna saws almost exclusively, as did everyone, and the 254 or the 266 were the only real saws to choose from. I quickly branched out and formed my own little work gang doing thinnings with a skidder on local estates and for the FC until the great storm of 1987 saw me leave the area for the riches on offer in Kent. The money earned in the windblow set me on the road to eventually having a fairly big skidding operation that varied in size with the strength of the market and the availability of work, until eventually certification and mechanisation sounded the end for the large hand felling gang; and so I had to bite the bullet and buy a harvester and a forwarder to remain competitive. I still like hand felling though; I like sitting on a machine when its cold and grey and rainy but I do like felling perhaps I should see someone about that? Unfortunately a knee operation I had two years ago that didnt quite go to plan, and a lifelong fondness for beer and chips (that wasnt a problem when I was felling six days a week), sometimes make felling for more than half a day extremely painful, but its a bit like banging your head against a wall it hurts like hell but its bliss when you stop. So out of the current crop what do I use and why? Husqvarna 346 XP The 346 XP is a little firecracker of a saw; its light and fast and very compact. It has the annoying silver side cover but its the mantelpiece and the fire syndrome that my dad used to apply, with great mirth, to girlfriends I brought home. We will let that slide but please, Husqvarna, go back to all orange. I did have a Stihl MS260 but the 346 is just worlds better in almost every respect. Everyone who picks it up cant help but be impressed and for underbrashing or as a saw to carry in a machine it is about perfect. Stihl MS361 This is my workhorse saw. It has been used and abused for almost three years; it has had a ton-anda-half Corsican pine dropped on it and has been used by all and sundry with no thought for its wellbeing. It has felled some huge trees for a 60cc saw but is still a gutsy little sod. Powerful, smooth and easily able to run a 3/8 chain on a 15 bar, the 361 will do any job and it is good on fuel. I have replaced the ignition unit on this one at a cost of 55 and it is reluctant to tick over happily until it is properly warm, but it is a very old saw in the scheme of things. It should have been replaced two years ago but Im no full-time cutter any more.
The heavyweight MS880 from Stihl, largest in their range at almost 122cc. Stihl MS441 I bought the MS441 because I was so impressed with the one I had on test. Things started off badly with my saw the flywheel came off after a week and the exhaust followed a few weeks later. It hadnt had all the screws fitted at the factory but my local dealer sorted all that out under warranty. Once the saw was put together properly it proved to be reliable and powerful like the test saw. I use it in bigger timber with a longer bar but usually I stick to the MS361 because its a bit more nimble. The 441 comes into its own in hardwood where the extra torque from the new type of engine makes itself apparent and the 441 will run a 20 bar and chain with ease. It does seem to use less fuel than the older saws of the same capacity. Im not convinced about the claims of huge fuel savings but Im very sure of the power gains they are certainly apparent. Stihl MS650 This saw replaced my ageing 066 and is only now used occasionally. It had a good deal of use in the winter, felling ash on a clearfell we did, but in March it had its 25 bar and chain removed and was cleaned down and put into storage. The truth is that for occasional trees the MS441 can do a fair job of turning a 25 bar, so, as good as the 650 is, it is being usurped by the smaller saws I have. Im sure a number of people will be surprised that there is only one Husqvarna in this list as it appears to some industry types that if you were to cut me I would bleed orange but that is not so. I use what I feel is best at the time and, though I look at saws like the Stihl MS361 and the Husqvarna 357 XP, and having owned both I know they are both excellent saws that I would use quite happily, I only chose the Stihl for two reasons. At the time I felt the local Stihl dealer was far better to deal with than the Husqvarna dealer for me personally, although that has changed as the Husqvarna dealership has now moved. Secondly, the bar and chain option on Stihl equipment was and is superior to that on Husqvarna saws. This holds true for the Stihl MS441 and Husqvarnas new 576 XP. Having used the saws side by side, the Stihl has the edge because of the bar and chain but a real dyed in the wool Husqvarna user would probably disagree. One of

(Left) The MS361 from Stihl is powerful, smooth and good on fuel. (Right) Echos CS600 comes equipped with a 15 bar and chain as standard.
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(Left) Efcos MT7200, cleaner and more fuel efficient. (Centre) The 50cc DCS5000 from Makita, which fits neatly into the amenity saw category, and (right) the larger, 79cc DCS7901. my subbies still insists his Husqvarna 372 XP is better than both of them, and he could be right, but they cant carry on making that archaic old two stroke cos its killing the planet and so happily the argument will go on as to which is the best saw for you. And of course the marketing people at Makita, Efco, Jonsered and Echo might be wondering when they might get a mention in this review. Well, its time for that now so here we go with the 2009 chainsaw market review. It is with Echo that we shall begin as they have two new saws on the market. The CS680 and the CS600 have been tested by my colleague Arwyn Morgan who found the 600 to be very much to his liking (FJ 8/09). This is a new addition to that all-important 60-ish cc class and is smooth, well balanced and powerful. Weight is about par at just under 6kg and the 59.8cc machine is equipped with a 15 bar and chain as standard. The CS680, on the other hand, is a thinly veiled update of the old CS6702 that I criticised so heavily back in 2005. It will not make any significant impact on the chainsaw market though. The other saw in the Echo range that will be of interest to pro users may be the 49.3cc CS510 which has now been around for a while. It boasts a six-point AV system and a dry weight of 5.1kg. There is one more new saw in the Echo range, the CS8002. This is a dedicated felling saw of 80.7cc but it is not widely available in the UK. www.echo-tools.co.uk www.countax.com Efco chainsaws are built by the giant Emak company and are split into three categories. In the intensiveuse listing, the 156 is the one that is of most interest to professional users. A 56.5cc saw that can run both.325 and 3/ 8 bar options, it weighs around 5.5kg and makes a handy alternative to the usual suspects. In the Sharp-pro professional saw category is the 162 that I tested and found to be a very surprising performer in the 60cc class. It produces plenty of power at 4.7hp/ 3.5kW and was a much better saw to use than we expected, given its unfamiliar look and feel. It is fairly light too at just 5.5 kilos, definitely worth a second look, although it is starting to look as though it is ready for an update. The MT range, 7200 and 8200, are the slightly bigger and newer machines that are the first of Efcos new generation saws that have more power than the older machines they replace (5.4hp/4kW and 6.6hp/4.4kW respectively) and are much cleaner and more fuel efficient. They also have a new steel spring AV system. The bigger MT 8200 can mount a bar right up to an impressive 30 in length. In the Sharp-pro heavy-duty category is the 199, a dedicated felling saw with a 100.9cc engine that churns out 6.8hp/5kW and has the biggest bar and chain option in the Efco range with a 41 bar fitted with.404 chain listed. The Sharp-pro saws all come with various features that highlight the saws durability, like large air cleaners and pistons designed for long life. Although these saws are not at the forefront of new design features, they are aimed at users who want solid equipment that performs well at a good initial price. However this is not to say they dont match some of the better known brands in performance terms because they do. www.efco-uk.co.uk Emak UK Ltd Makita continue with the well established DCS range of professional saws that include the very good 6401 in the 60cc class. A physically large but not particularly heavy 64cc machine, the 6401 is notable for its build quality and robustness. It is a saw that is built on the same body as its larger 73 and 79cc stablemates that make up a three saw group in the Makita range. I have tested both the DCS6401 and the DCS7901 in the past and they both proved to be competent performers, with the smaller saw winning particular praise and being singled out as a saw that would do a range of different jobs, making it suitable for users who didnt need, or want, a whole range of saws. The bigger DCS7901 was similarly well built but came in for criticism because of its small air cleaner, a problem which has now been addressed. Makita also produce a smaller saw that is becoming very popular. The DCS5000 is now the British Armys chainsaw of choice and at just 50cc, and with exceptionally light weight, it fits neatly into the increasingly more important amenity saw category, but for forestry users it is in the small felling category that it is useful. The four-stroke chainsaw that Makita announced a couple of years ago is still being developed but as of yet we are still waiting to see a production model here in the UK. Makita saws are of course developments of the Dolmar range that have been enhanced by the touch of Japanese technology, although in this case it was possibly better quality control allied with better production techniques that made the new Makita saws so good. www.makitauk.com or www.makita.com/uk then choose products and outdoor power. Jonsered chainsaws continue to have a core of dedicated users who like the alternatives that the red and black saws offer. New this year is the first Jonsered with a low emission engine that is everything that the X-torq Husqvarna engine is but without the name. This is in the 2255S model which bears a striking technical similarity to the 455 Rancher in the Husky range and is aimed at part-time professionals and serious casual users. The 2255S offers a tool-free chain tensioner option, obviously for the casual user. This saw will be a good saw for general use given that the orange version is a machine that performs well above its specification, and I do have a sneaking admiration for Jonsered saws that takes me back many years. The rest of the Jonsered range has been rationalised a little since Husqvarna became a separate entity and left the restrictions of the giant EM group behind. The Jonsered range of professional saws that will be of interest to the full-time user consists of eight saws including the new 2255S. The 2153 and 2152 are the smallest at 50.1 and 51.7cc respectively. I know this looks wrong, but the 53 is actually the smaller saw by capacity but it is the more powerful at 3.5hp compared to the bigger saws 3.3hp. The smaller saw is also aimed more at the highly focused small felling/brashing saw user, with the bigger saw having a slightly more relaxed set-up. The 2156 and 2159 follow a similar trend, with the smaller 2156 in the range as the full power, fully focused top line saw for timber production, and the 2159 having a bit less all-out power and a bit less frenetic action to make life easier for users who dont need to work flat out all day. These two come in at 4hp/3kW for the 2159 and 4.4hp/3.2kW for the 2156, with both weighing about the 5.6kg mark. The 2165 is the hardy workhorse of the Jonsered range at around the 65cc mark; it produces a good spread of docile power with the promise of exceptional longevity. No startling performer, with just a touch more power than the 2156, it remains a good choice as a saw

Forestry Journal 9/09

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for all jobs. Towards the top end of the Jonsered range is the 2171, a full power 70.7cc felling saw that offers almost 5.4hp/4kW of power from just about 6kg of saw. It is an old model with a conventional engine that some people may find a bonus rather than a drawback, and it may be one of the 70cc saws they turn to once the low emission engined saws take over in this category. The biggest saw in the Jonsered range is the 2186. At just under 85cc it provides the power to turn bars up to 28 in length, and, in common with all the saws in the Jonsered range, it is a reasonably light saw for its size at just 7 kilos. Jonsered saws are now marketed under the same holding as the Husqvarna range saw and the contact details are almost the same although Jonsered still retains its identity as a separate name. www.jonsered.co.uk (Husqvarna Outdoor Products) I dont know where to start with Husqvarna unless I say that I will present a much reduced list of models that I believe contains those saws that will form a useful pool from whence a professional user can pick one or two machines for day-to-day use. The range of saws that Husqvarna now offers is huge and it is wonderful if you are a homeowner who needs a saw that is easy to start and needs no tools to tighten the chain, but that doesnt apply here. I am going to look at the range of XP saws and a couple of the Powerful robust saws. I have already talked about the 346 XP and how good it is, and the 357 XP is well established as one of the leading machines in the 60-ish cc class with its power, balance, reliability with the Husqvarna name backing all this up. The 372 XP has had a mention too; it should have been discontinued by now but it has a great following of dedicated
users who just wont stop buying it and so it keeps on hanging around in the catalogue. It will only be discontinued when the new X-torq engined 576 XP replaces it. The 576 XP has two versions in the catalogue, the standard one and the 576 XP AutoTune. The AutoTune version has a system that takes away the need for the operator to tune the carburettor for different working conditions. To quote Husqvarnas website, It compensates for different fuels, altitude, humidity, temperature and clogged air filter. Oh joy! This is exactly what the 576 XP needed and it should enhance the saw significantly. The 576 XP has marked advantages because of its X-torq engine; it has a wide spread of power, it is slightly better on fuel and the detail changes to the saw itself, like the new rear handle, all add up to a better saw when in use. The one big thing that will force this type of saw into the marketplace is of course the legislation that means chainsaw engines must become cleaner and the X-torq engine is one of the engines that complies. Husqvarna produce three big felling saws. The 390 XP is a felling saw that the ambitious can use for dressing out and rounding up, whereas the 395 XP is more of a dedicated hardwood saw. The 390 comes in at 87.9cc and 7.2kg, and the 395 is a big 93.6cc and 8.1kg. Bars go up to 28 on the smaller saw and 36 on the 395 which will also use.404 chain if required. Husqvarnas biggest saw is the 3120 XP at 118.8cc and 8.4hp/6.2kW. The big hardwood felling saw has now been the top of Husqvarnas range for a number of years but it is not a saw that is used every day by many people, especially with its longest 42 bar and.404 chain option fitted. Husqvarnas range of Powerful robust saws includes the evergreen 365 which is familiar to many users as the unburstable middleweight saw that can be relied on to pro-

vide long service with little fuss. It remains a best seller with many dealers despite its steady performance and lack of innovative features or perhaps these are the reasons it is so popular. The Powerful robust range also contains the 570 which is equipped with a 67.9cc X-torq engine giving it a wide spread of power and good fuel economy. It also has some interesting new features in line with the newer generation of X-torq saws. It is possibly one of the most interesting new saws in the Husqvarna line-up. In the Powerful robust saws there are also the 51.7cc 353 which is a starter level saw and the handy 59cc 359 that is popular with some people who find the 357 XP a little too high in speed. All the XP range of Husqvarna saws come in a G version with heated handles. Features like toolless cylinder covers, smart start and side chain tensioners are common across the ranges. www.husqvarna.co.uk The Stihl range of chainsaws is equally as comprehensive as that of Husqvarna, if not even more filled with machines that are not relevant to the pro user, so I have done some editing here too. The smallest, and one of the longest lived of Stihls professional chainsaws, is the MS260 with a lineage that can be traced back more than 20 years via the 026. It has had a revamp or two and still offers a robust, reliable option for users who want a small saw that is light and user friendly, a popular option for training colleges and utility companies. It is fair to say that the MS341 and MS361 are just two different power versions of the same saw with the now extremely capable and consequently very popular MS361 topping the power chart at 4.6hp/3.4kW, as opposed to the 341s 4.2hp/3.1kW from their iden-
tical 59cc engines. The MS361 is probably one of the most significant saws in the Stihl range, along with the MS441. This introduced Stihl users to the low emission engine that produces more torque over a wider rev range with lower emissions and better fuel economy. The MS441 is one of the best saws in the 70cc class with excellent power, low vibrations and good user friendly features. Hanging on in the catalogue above the 441 is the MS460. With its conventional engine of 76.5cc it is just 6 ccs bigger but is slightly more powerful at 6hp/4.4kW as opposed to the MS441s 5.6hp/4.1kW. It has, however, got a more familiar feel for those users who are finding it difficult to embrace the new technology of the scavenging engine. Into the bigger saws of the Stihl range, the now familiar MS650 has become established in the role of the big multi-purpose saw for felling big softwood and some hardwood work, along with the evergreen MS660 that is a development of the long lived and very popular 066. The 650 displaces 84.9cc and the 660 91.6, with power outputs of 6.5/4.8 and 7hp/5.2kW respectively. Both these saws can turn long bars if needed but the MS650 can be fitted with bars as short as 18 without feeling cumbersome or drastically unbalanced. Heavyweight, and the biggest saw in the review for another year, is the MS880, a fully focused hardwood felling saw of almost 122cc. The 8.7hp/6.4kW Stihl remains the top when it comes to bar length with its.404 equipped 48 option. All Stihl professional saws come with side chain tensioning, tool-less air filter covers and Stihls own bars and chains. Most of them also have tool-less fuel caps and a heated handle version. www.stihl.co.uk 01276 20202

(Left) The 357 XP from Husqvarna still has a following of dedicated users. (Right) Stihls MS441, one of the best saws in the 70cc class.