The inertia activated chain brake increases your safety but there are certain factors to remember (see point 6 above).

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5 Vibration damping system
Your chain saw is equipped with a vibration damping system that is designed to minimise vibrations and make operation easier.

6 Stop switch

Use the stop switch to switch off the engine.
When you use a chain saw vibrations are generated by the uneven contact between the chain and the wood you are cutting.
Cutting hardwoods (most broadleaf trees) creates more vibration than cutting softwoods (most conifers). Cutting with a chain that is blunt or faulty (wrong type or badly sharpened, see section D) will increase the vibration level.

7 Muffler

The muffler is designed to keep noise levels to a minimum and to direct exhaust fumes away from the user.
The vibration damping system reduces the vibrations transmitted from the engine and chain to the handles of the chain saw. The body of the saw, including the cutting equipment, is insulated from the handles by vibration damping units.
The exhaust fumes from the engine are hot and may contain sparks which can start a fire. Never start the saw indoors or near combustible material!
Overexposure to vibration can lead to circulatory damage or nerve damage in people who have impaired circulation. Contact your doctor if you experience symptoms of overexposure to vibration. These symptoms include numbness, loss of feeling, tingling, pricking, pain, loss of strength, changes in skin colour or condition. These symptoms normally appear in the fingers, hands or wrists.
In areas with a hot, dry climate there is a high risk of forest fires. These areas are sometimes controlled by legislation and requirements that among other things the muffler must be equipped with an approved type of spark arrestor mesh. For mufflers it is very important that you follow the instructions on checking, maintaining and servicing your saw (see the section on Inspecting, maintaining and servicing chain saw safety equipment).
The muffler gets very hot in use and remains so for a short time afterwards. DO NOT TOUCH THE MUFFLER IF IT IS HOT!
Inspecting, maintaining and servicing chain saw safety equipment

C Some terms that describe the bar and chain
When the cutting equipment supplied with your saw becomes worn or damaged you will need to replace it. Use only the type of bar and chain recommended by us. See the Technical data section to find out which equipment is recommended for your saw.
LENGTH (inches/cm) NUMBER OF TEETH ON BAR TIP SPROCKET (T). Small number = small tip radius = low-kickback CHAIN PITCH (inches) The spacing between the drive links of the chain must match the spacing of the teeth on the bar tip sprocket and drive sprocket. NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS The number of drive links is determined by the length of the bar, the chain pitch and the number of teeth on the bar tip sprocket. BAR GROOVE WIDTH (inches/mm) The groove in the bar must match the width of the chain drive links. SAW CHAIN OIL HOLE AND HOLE FOR CHAIN TENSIONER The bar must be matched to the chain saw design.
The smaller the tip radius the smaller the kickback zone and the lower the chance of kickback.

B Saw chain

A saw chain is made up of a number of links, which are available in standard and low-kickback versions. None CUTTING LINK Standard Low-kickback

DRIVE LINK

SIDE LINK

Saw chain

Combining these links in different ways gives different degrees of kickback reduction. In terms of kickback reduction alone, four different types of link are available. Kickback reduction LOW Cutting link Drive link Side link DRIVE LINK WIDTH (mm/ inches) SAW CHAIN PITCH (=PITCH) (inches)

STANDARD HIGH EXTRA HIGH

NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS LEVEL OF KICKBACK REDUCTION The level of kickback reduction offered by a chain is indicated by its model number. See the Technical data section to find the model numbers of chains that are recommended for use with your saw.
2 Sharpening your chain and adjusting raker clearance
The risk of kickback is increased with a badly sharpened chain! It is very difficult to sharpen a chain correctly without the right equipment. We recommend you use a file gauge. This will help you obtain the maximum kickback reduction and cutting performance from your chain.
A General information on sharpening cutting teeth
Never use a blunt chain. When the chain is blunt you have to exert more pressure to force the bar through the wood and the cuttings will be very small. If the chain is very blunt it will not produce any cuttings at all, just wood powder. A sharp chain eats its way through the wood and produces long, thick cuttings. The following faults will increase the risk of kickback considerably.

FILE ANGLE TOO LARGE

CUTTING ANGLE TOO SMALL
The cutting part of the chain is called the CUTTING LINK and this consists of a CUTTING TOOTH (A) and the RAKER LIP (B). The cutting depth is determined by the difference in height between the two.

FILE DIAMETER TOO SMALL

B Sharpening cutting teeth
To sharpen cutting teeth you will need a ROUND FILE and a FILE GAUGE. See the Technical data section for information on the size of file and gauge that are recommended for your saw chain. 1 Check that the chain is correctly tensioned. A slack chain is difficult to sharpen correctly.
When you sharpen a cutting tooth there are five important factors to remember. FILING ANGLE
CUTTING ANGLE 2 Always file cutting teeth from the inside face, reducing the pressure on the return stroke. File all the teeth on one side first, then turn the saw over and file the teeth on the other side. ROUND FILE DIAMETER 3 File all the teeth to the same length. When the length of the cutting teeth is reduced to 4 mm (0,16") the chain is worn out and should be replaced.

FILE POSITION

min 4 mm (0,16")

FILE DEPTH

See the Technical data section for information about sharpening your saw chain.

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C General advice on setting raker clearance
When you sharpen the cutting teeth you reduce the RAKER CLEARANCE (cutting depth). To maintain cutting performance you must file back the raker teeth to the recommended height. See the Technical data section to find the raker clearance for your saw chain. On a low-kickback cutting link the front edge of the raker lip is rounded. It is very important that you maintain this radius or bevel when you adjust the raker clearance. We recommend the use of a raker gauge to achieve the correct clearance and bevel on the raker lip.
D Setting the raker clearance
Before setting the raker clearance the cutting teeth should be newly sharpened. We recommend that you adjust the raker clearance every third time you sharpen the chain. NOTE! This recommendation assumes that the length of the cutting teeth is not reduced excessively. To adjust the raker clearance you will need a FLAT FILE and a RAKER GAUGE.
Place the gauge over the raker lip.
Place the file over the part of the lip that protrudes through the gauge and file off the excess. The clearance is correct when you no longer feel any resistance as you draw the file over the gauge.

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C Checking chain lubrication
Check the chain lubrication each time you refuel. Aim the tip of the saw at a light coloured surface about 20 cm away. After 1 minute running at 3/4 throttle you should see a distinct line of oil on the light surface. The clutch drum is equipped with one of the following chain sprockets: Spur sprocket (A) (the chain sprocket is welded on the drum) Rim sprocket (B) (exchangeable) Both versions have built-in needle bearing at the drive shaft, whitch has to be greased regularly (once a week). NOTE! Use only high quality bearing grease or engine oil.
Needle bearing maintenance
If the chain lubrication is not working: 1 Check that the oil channel in the bar is not obstructed. Clean if necessary.
Checking wear on cutting equipment
Check that the groove in the edge of the bar is clean. Clean if necessary. Check that the bar tip sprocket turns freely and that the lubricating hole in the tip is not blocked. Clean and lubricate if necessary.
Check the saw chain daily for: Visible cracks in rivets and links. Whether the chain is stiff. Whether rivets and links are badly worn. We recommend you compare the existing chain with a new chain to decide how badly it is worn. When the length of the cutting teeth has worn down to only 4 mm the chain must be replaced.
If the chain lubrication system is still not working after carrying out the above measures you should contact your service agent.

G Chain drive sprocket

D Lubricating the bar tip sprocket
The clutch drum is fitted with one of the following drive sprockets: A SPUR (integral drive sprocket) RING (replaceable) Regularly check the degree of wear on the drive sprocket. Replace if wear is excessive. Replace the drive sprocket whenever you replace the chain.
Lubricate the bar tip sprocket each time you refuel. Use the special grease gun and a good quality bearing grease.

HOW TO AVOID KICKBACK

Kickback can happen very suddenly and violently; kicking the saw, bar and chain back at the user. If this happens when the chain is moving it can cause very serious, even fatal injuries. It is vital you understand what causes kickback and that you can avoid it by taking care and using the right working technique.

Check regularly: Whether there are burrs on the edges of the bar. Remove these with a file if necessary.

What is kickback?

The word kickback is used to describe the sudden reaction that happens when the upper quadrant of the tip of the bar (known as the kickback zone) touches an object and the saw is kicked backwards.
Whether the groove in the bar has become badly worn. Replace the bar if necessary.
Whether the tip of the bar is uneven or badly worn. If a hollow forms on one side of the bar tip this is due to a slack chain.
To prolong the life of the bar you should turn it over daily.
Kickback always occurs in the cutting plane of the saw. Normally the saw and bar are thrown backwards and upwards towards the user. However the saw may move in a different direction depending on the way it was being used when the kickback zone of the bar touched the object.
MOST CHAIN SAW ACCIDENTS HAPPEN WHEN THE CHAIN TOUCHES THE OPERATOR. WEAR PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT (see the section on Chain saw safety equipment). DO NOT TACKLE ANY JOB YOU ARE UNSURE OF (see the section on Personal protective equipment, How to avoid kickback, General working instructions and Cutting equipment). AVOID SITUATIONS WHERE THERE IS A RISK OF KICKBACK (see the section on Personal protective equipment). USE THE RECOMMENDED PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT AND CHECK ITS CONDITION (see section on General working instructions). CHECK THAT ALL SAFETY FUNCTIONS ARE WORKING (see section on General working instructions and General safety precautions). Kickback only occurs if the kickback zone of the bar touches an object.

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General rules
1 If you understand what kickback is and how it happens then you can reduce or eliminate the element of surprise. By being prepared you reduce the risk. Kickback is usually quite mild, but it can sometimes be very sudden and violent. Always hold the saw firmly with your right hand on the rear handle and your left hand on the front handle. Wrap your fingers and thumb around the handles. You should use this grip whether you are right-handed or lefthanded. This grip minimises the effect of kickback and lets you keep the saw under control. Do not let go of the handles! 3 Most kickback accidents happen during limbing. Make sure you are standing firmly and that there is nothing in the way that might make you trip or lose your balance. Lack of concentration can lead to kickback if the kickback zone of the bar accidentally touches a branch, nearby tree or some other object. 4 Never use the saw above shoulder height and try not to cut with the tip of the bar. Never use the saw onehanded! Cutting with the bottom edge of the bar, i.e. from the top of the object downwards, is known as cutting on the pull stroke. 7 Take great care when you cut with the top edge of the bar, i.e. when cutting from the underside of the object. This is known as cutting on the push stroke. The chain tries to push the saw back towards the user. Unless the user resists this pushing force there is a risk that the saw will move so far backwards that only the kickback zone of the bar is in contact with the tree. This will cause kickback.

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GENERAL WORKING INSTRUCTIONS
This section describes basic safety rules for using a chain saw. This information is no substitute for professional skills and experience. If you get into a situation where you feel unsafe, stop and seek expert advice (look under FORESTRY SERVICES in the telephone directory). DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY TASK THAT YOU FEEL UNSURE OF! 4 Check the area around you for possible obstacles such as roots, rocks, branches, ditches, etc., in case you have to move suddenly. Take great care when working on sloping ground.

Important

1 Before using a chain saw you must understand the effects of kickback and what causes it. (See the section on How to avoid kickback.) 2 Before using a saw you must understand the difference between sawing with the top and bottom edges of the bar. (See the section on How to avoid kickback.) 5 Take the utmost care when cutting through branches or logs that are in tension. A log or branch that is in tension can suddenly spring back into its natural position before or after you cut it. If you stand on the wrong side or start cutting in the wrong place it may strike you or your chain saw. This could make you lose control and cause a serious accident.

1 Basic safety rules

1 Look around you: to make sure there are no people, animals or other objects nearby that might affect your work. to make sure that none of the above might come within reach of your saw or be injured by falling trees.
6 Follow the instructions above, but do not use a chain saw in a situation where you cannot call for help in case of an accident. 2 Do not use the saw in bad weather, such as dense fog, heavy rain, strong wind, intense cold, etc. Working in cold weather is tiring and often brings added risks, such as icy ground, unpredictable felling direction, etc. Take great care when removing small branches and avoid cutting bushes (i.e. cutting many small branches at the same time). Small branches can be grabbed by the chain and thrown back at you, causing serious injury.
Before moving your chain saw switch off the engine and lock the chain using the chain brake. Carry the saw with the bar and chain pointing backwards. Fit a guard to the bar before carrying the saw any distance.
Never put a chain saw down while the engine is running unless you have it in clear view and the chain brake is on. Switch the engine off before leaving your chain saw for any length of time.
2 Basic cutting technique

General

Always use full throttle when cutting! Reduce the speed to idle after every cut (running the engine for too long at full throttle without any load can lead to serious engine damage). Cutting from above = Cutting on the pull stroke. Cutting from below = Cutting on the push stroke. See the section on How to avoid kickback to find out why cutting on the push stroke increases the risk of kickback. If the chain jams in the cut: STOP THE ENGINE! Dont try to pull the saw free. If you do you may damage the chain when the saw suddenly breaks free. Use a lever to open up the cut and free the bar. Two factors decide whether the chain will jam or the log will split. The first is how the log is supported and the second is whether it is in tension. In most cases you can avoid these problems by cutting in two stages; from the top and from the bottom of the log. You need to support the log so that it will not trap the chain or split during cutting.

Make one or more cuts at or near the BREAKING POINT. Make as many cuts of sufficient depth as necessary to reduce the tension and make the tree or branch break at the BREAKING POINT. Never cut straight through a tree or branch that is IS in tension!

WHAT IS WHAT?

Husqvarna 55

XXXX XXXXXXX

Husqvarna AB Huskvarna, SWEDEN
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Cylinder cover. Front handle. Front hand guard. Starter cover. Chain oil tank. Starter handle. Adjuster screw, carburetor. 20. Throttle control. Choke control/Start throttle lock. Rear handle. 21. Throttle lock. Prevents accidental operation of throttle control. 23. Combination spanner. 24. Chain tensioning screw. 25. Operator's manual. 26. Bar guard. 14. Saw chain. 15. Saw bar. 16. Bumper. 17. Chain catcher. Catches chain if it jumps or breaks. 18. Clutch cover. 19. Right hand guard. Protects right hand if chain breaks or jumps.
10. Stop switch. Ignition on/off switch. 11. Fuel tank. 12. Muffler. 13. Bar tip sprocket.

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ASSEMBLY
Mounting guide bar and chain
Always wear gloves, when working with the chain, in order to protect your hands from injury.
Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front hand guard towards the front handle.
Hold up the tip of the bar and tighten the chain. The chain is correctly tensioned when there is no slack on the underside of the bar, but it can still be turned easily by hand. Hold up the bar tip and tighten the bar nuts with the combination wrench. When fitting a new chain, the chain tension has to be checked frequently until the chain is run-in. Check the chain tension regularly. A correctly tensioned chain gives good cutting performance and long lifetime.
Take off the bar nuts and remove the clutch cover. Take off the transportation ring (A).
Fit the bar over the bar bolts. Place the bar in its rearmost position. Place the chain over the drive sprocket and in the groove on the bar. Begin on the top side of the bar. Make sure that the edges on the cutting links are facing forward on the top side of the bar.
Fit the clutch cover and locate the chain adjuster pin in the hole on the bar. Check that the drive links of the chain fit correctly on the drive sprocket and that the chain is in the groove on the bar. Tighten the bar nuts finger tight. Tension the chain by using the combination wrench. Turn the chain adjuster screw clockwise. The chain should be tensioned until it fits snugly on the underside of the bar.

FUEL HANDLING

Fuelmix
IMPORTANT! The chain saw is equipped with a two-stroke engine and must always been run using a mixture of gasoline and two-stroke engine oil. It is important to accurately measure the amount of oil to be mixed to ensure that the correct mixture is obtained. When mixing small amounts of fuel, even small inaccuracies can drastically affect the ratio of the mixture.

Mixing

Always mix the gasoline and oil in a clean container intended for fuel. Always start by filling half the amount of the gasoline to be used. Then add the entire amount of oil. Mix (shake) the fuel mixture. Add the remaining amount of gasoline. Mix (shake) the fuel mixture thoroughly before filling the saws fuel tank. Do not mix more than max. one months supply of fuel. If the saw is not used for some time the fuel tank should be emptied and cleaned. This engine is certified to operate on unleaded gasoline.

Gasoline

Always provide for good ventilation when handling fuel.
This engine is certified to operate on unleaded gasoline. Use good quality unleaded gasoline. The lowest recommended octane rating is 87. If you run the engine on lower octane rating than 87 socalled knocking can occur. This leads to an increased engine temperature, which can result in a serious engine breakdown. When working at continuous high revs a higher octane rating is recommended.

Two-stroke oil

For the best results use HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil, which is especially developed for chain saws. Mixing ratio 1:50 (2%). Never use two-stroke oil intended for water cooled outboard engines, so-called, outboard oil. Never use oil intended for four-stroke engines.

Chain oil

The chain lubrication system is automatic. Always use special chain oil with good adhesive characteristics. In countries where no special chain oil is available, EP 90 transmission oil can be used. Never use waste oil. This results in damage to the oil pump, the bar and the chain. It is important to use oil of the right viscosity according to the air temperature. In temperatures below 0oC (32oF) some oils become too viscous. This can overload the oil pump and result in damage to the oil pump components. Contact your servicing dealer when choosing chain oil.

Gasoline Lit.

2%(1:50)

US gallon

0,10 0,20 0,30 0,40

US fl. oz.

2 1/1/7/8

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Fuelling
Taking the following precautions, will lessen the risk of fire.
Do not smoke or place warm objects in the vicinity of the fuel. Always shut off the engine before refuelling. Slowly open the fuel cap, when filling fuel, so that possible overpressure is slowly released. Tighten the fuel cap carefully after fuelling. Always move the saw from the fuelling area before starting. Clean around the fuel cap. Clean the fuel and chain oil tanks regularly. The fuel filter should be changed at least once a year. Contamination in the fuel tanks causes malfunction. Make sure the fuel is well mixed by shaking the container before fuelling. The volume of chain oil and fuel tanks are adjusted to each other. Therefore, always fill chain oil and fuel at the same time.

Min 3 m (10ft)

START AND STOP

Start and stop Start

Grip the front handle with your left hand and hold the saw down by putting your right foot in the rear handle. Pull the starter handle with your right hand and pull out the starter cord slowly until the starter pawls engage. Then pull sharply. Never wrap the starter cord around your hand. Push in the choke control immediately when the engine ignites and make repeated starting attemps. Immediately press and release the throttle when the engine starts. That will disengage the throttle latch. As the chain brake is still activated the engine must return to idling speed as soon as possible by disengaging the throttle latch in order to avoid unnecessary wear on the clutch assembly. CAUTION! Do not release the starter handle from fully pulled out position as this can cause damage on the saw. Pull the front hand guard towards the front handle. The chain brake is now disengaged. Your saw is now ready for use.

WARNING!

Never start the saw engine without the bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake) assembled - or else the clutch can come loose and cause personal injuries. Always move the saw away from the fueling area before starting. Place the saw on clear ground and make sure that the chain is not contacting anything. Also, make sure that you have a secure footing. Keep people and animals well away from the working area.

Starter device assembly

Assemble the starter device, by pulling the starter cord out first, then place the starter against the crankcase. Then slowly release the starter cord so that the pulley engages with the pawls. Assemble and tighten the screws, which hold the starter.

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Air filter
The air filter must be regularly cleaned from dust and dirt in order to avoid: Carburetor malfunctions Starting problems Engine power reduction Unnecessary wear on the engine parts Abnormal fuel consumption

Muffler

Clean the air filter daily or more often if the air is exceptionally dusty in the working area. Disassemble the air filter by removing the cylinder cover and unscrew the filter. When reassembling, make sure that the filter is tight against the filter holder. Clean the filter by brushing or shaking it. A more thorough cleaning of the filter is obtained by washing it in water and soap. An air filter, which is used for some time, cannot be cleaned completely. Therefore it must be replaced by a new one, with regular intervals. IMPORTANT! A damaged air filter must always be replaced.
The muffler is designed in order to reduce the noise level and to direct the exhaust gases away from the operator. The exhaust gases are hot and can contain sparks, which may cause fire if directed against dry and combustible material. Some mufflers are equipped with a special screen. If your saw has this type of muffler, you should clean the screen at least once a week. This is done with a wire brush. CAUTION! The screen must be replaced, if damaged. The saw will be overheated, if the screen is clogged. This results in damage on the cylinder and the piston. Never use a saw with a clogged or defective muffler.
The clutch drum is equipped with one of the following chain sprockets: Spur sprocket (A) (the chain sprocket is welded on the drum)

Spark plug

The spark plug condition is influenced by: An incorrect carburetor setting. Wrong fuel mixture (too much oil in the gasoline). A dirty air filter. These factors cause deposits on the spark plug electrodes, which may result in malfunction and starting difficulties. If the engine is low on power, difficult to start or runs poorly at idling speed, always check the spark plug first. If the spark plug is dirty, clean it and check the electrode gap. Readjust if necessary. The correct gap is 0,5 mm (0,020"). The spark plug should be replaced after about a month in operation or earlier if the electrodes are badly eroded. IMPORTANT! Always use the recommended spark plug type. An incorrect spark plug can severely damage the piston/cylinder.

WHAT IS COVERED

REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT OF PARTS Repair or replacement of any warranted part will be performed at no charge to the owner at an approved Husqvarna Forest & Garden servicing dealer. If you have any questions regarding your warranty rights and responsibilities, you should contact your nearest authorized servicing dealer or call Husqvarna Forest & Garden at 1-800-487-5963. WARRANTY PERIOD Any warranted part which is not scheduled for replacement as required maintenance, or which is scheduled only for regular inspection to the effect of repair or replace as necessary shall be warranted for 2 years. Any warranted part which is scheduled for replacement as required maintenance shall be warranted for the period of time up to the first scheduled replacement point for that part. DIAGNOSIS The owner shall not be charged for diagnostic labor which leads to the determination that a warranted part is defective, if the diagnostic work is performed at an approved Husqvarna Forest & Garden servicing dealer. CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES Husqvarna Forest & Garden may be liable for damages to other engine components caused by the failure of a warranted part still under warranty.
MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY COVERAGE
The 2001 and later small nonroad engines are warranted for two years. If any emission related part on your engine (as listed above) is defective, the part will be repaired or replaced by Husqvarna Forest & Garden.

WHAT IS NOT COVERED

All failures caused by abuse, neglect or improper maintenance are not covered. ADD -ON OR MODIFIED PARTS The use of add-on or modified parts can be grounds for disallowing a warranty claim. Husqvarna Forest & Garden is not liable to cover failures of warranted parts caused by the use of add-on or modified parts.
OWNERS WARRANTY RESPONSIBILITIES
As the small nonroad engine owner, you are responsible for the performance of the required maintenance listed in your Operators Manual. Husqvarna Forest & Garden recommends that you retain all receipts covering maintenance on your small nonroad engine, but Husqvarna Forest & Garden cannot deny warranty solely for the lack of receipts or for your failure to ensure the performance of all scheduled maintenance. As the small nonroad engine owner, you should, however, be aware that Husqvarna Forest & Garden may deny you warranty coverage if your small nonroad engine or a part of it has failed due to abuse, neglect, improper maintenance, unapproved modifications or the use of parts not made or approved by the original equipment manufacturer. You are responsible for presenting your small nonroad engine to a Husqvarna Forest & Garden authorized servicing dealer as soon as a problem exists. The warranty repairs should be completed in a reasonable amount of time, not to exceed 30 days. If you have any questions regarding your warranty rights and responsibilities, you should contact your nearest authorized servicing dealer or call Husqvarna Forest & Garden at 1-800487-5963.

HOW TO FILE A CLAIM

If you have any questions regarding your warranty rights and responsibilities, you should contact your nearest authorized servicing dealer or call Husqvarna Forest & Garden at 1-800-487-5963.
WHERE TO GET WARRANTY SERVICE
Warranty services or repairs shall be provided at all Husqvarna Forest & Garden authorized servicing dealers.
MAINTENANCE, REPLACEMENT AND REPAIR OF EMISSION-RELATED PARTS
Any Husqvarna Forest & Garden approved replacement part used in the performance of any warranty maintenance or repairs on emission-related parts, will be provided without charge to the owner if the part is under warranty.
WARRANTY COMMENCEMENT DATE
The warranty period begins on the date small nonroad engine is delivered.
EMISSION CONTROL WARRANTY PARTS LIST
1. 2. 3. 4. Carburetor and internal parts Intake pipe, airfilter holder and carburetor bolts. Airfilter and fuelfilter covered up to maintainance schedule. Ignition System a) Spark Plug, covered up to maintenance schedule b) Ignition Module

LENGTH OF COVERAGE

Husqvarna Forest & Garden warrants to the initial owner and each subsequent purchaser that the engine is free from defects in materials and workmanship which cause the failure of a warranted part for a period of two years.

MAINTENANCE STATEMENT

The owner is responsible for the performance of all required maintenance, as defined in the operators manual.

2002W16

The chain brake (A) can either be activated manually (by your left hand) or automatically by the inertia release mechanism (a pendulum that swings independently of the chain saw. On most of our models the front hand guard acts as a counterweight in case of kickback). The brake is applied when the front hand guard (B) is pushed forwards.
To release the chain brake pull the front hand guard backwards, towards the front handle.
Kickback can be very sudden and violent. Most kickbacks are minor and do not always activate the chain brake. If this happens you should hold the chain saw rmly and not let go.
This movement activates a spring-loaded mechanism that tightens the brake band (C) around the engine drive system (D) (clutch drum).
The front hand guard is not designed solely to activate the chain brake. Another important feature is that it reduces the risk of the chain hitting your left hand if you lose grip of the front handle.
The way the chain brake is activated, either manually or automatically by the inertia release mechanism, depends on the force of the kickback and the position of the chain saw in relation to the object that the kickback zone of the bar strikes. If you get a violent kickback while the kickback zone of the bar is farthest away from you the chain brake will be activated by the movement of the counterweight (inertia activated) in the kickback direction.
The chain brake must be engaged when the chain saw is started.
If the kickback is less violent or the kickback zone of the bar is closer to you the chain brake will be activated manually by the movement of your left hand.
During felling your left hand grasps the front handle in such a way that it cannot activate the chain brake. In this position, i.e. when your left hand is in such a position that it cannot affect the movement of the front hand guard, the chain brake can only be activated by the inertia of the counterweight.
Your machine is equipped with a vibration damping system that is designed to minimize vibration and make operation easier.
When you use a chain saw, vibration is generated by the uneven contact between the chain and the wood you are cutting. The inertia activated chain brake is a valuable feature but there are certain factors to remember (see point above).
The throttle lock is designed to prevent accidental operation of the throttle control. When you press the lock (A) (i.e. when you grasp the handle) it releases the throttle control (B). When you release the handle the throttle control and the throttle lock both move back to their original positions. This movement is controlled by two independent return springs. This arrangement means that the throttle control is automatically locked at the idle setting.

Cutting hardwoods (most broadleaf trees) creates more vibration than cutting softwoods (most conifers). Cutting with cutting equipment that is blunt or faulty (wrong type or badly sharpened) will increase the vibration level. See instructions under the heading Cutting equipment.
The machines vibration damping system reduces the transfer of vibration between the engine unit/cutting equipment and the machines handle unit. The body of the chain saw, including the cutting equipment, is insulated from the handles by vibration damping units.

Chain catcher

The chain catcher is designed to catch the chain if it snaps or jumps off. This should not happen if the chain is properly tensioned (see instructions under the heading Assembly) and if the bar and chain are properly serviced and maintained (see instructions under the heading General working instructions).
WARNING! Overexposure to vibration can lead to circulatory damage or nerve damage in people who have impaired circulation. Contact your doctor if you experience symptoms of overexposure to vibration. Such symptoms include numbness, loss of feeling, tingling, pricking, pain, loss of strength, changes in skin colour or condition. These symptoms normally appear in the ngers, hands or wrists. The risk increases at low temperatures.

Right hand guard

Apart from protecting your hand if the chain jumps or snaps, the right hand guard stops branches and twigs from interfering with your grip on the rear handle.

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Use the stop switch to switch off the engine.
Checking, maintaining and servicing the machines safety equipment
WARNING! All servicing and repair work on the machine requires special training. This is especially true of the machines safety equipment. If your machine fails any of the checks described below you must contact your service agent. When you buy any of our products we guarantee the availability of professional repairs and service. If the retailer who sells your machine is not a servicing dealer, ask him for the address of your nearest service agent.
The mufer is designed to keep noise levels to a minimum and to direct exhaust fumes away from the user.

Checking brake band wear

Brush off any wood dust, resin and dirt from the chain brake and clutch drum. Dirt and wear can impair operation of the brake.
WARNING! The exhaust fumes from the engine are hot and may contain sparks which can start a re. Never start the machine indoors or near combustible material!
Regularly check that the brake band is at least 0.6 mm thick at its thinnest point.
In areas with a hot, dry climate there is a high risk of res. These areas are sometimes controlled by legislation and requirements that among other things the mufer must be equipped with an approved type of spark arrestor mesh. For mufers it is very important that you follow the instructions on checking, maintaining and servicing your machine. See instructions under the heading Checking, maintaining and servicing the machines safety equipment.
Checking the front hand guard
WARNING! The mufer gets very hot in use and remains so for a short time afterwards. Do not touch the mufer if it is hot! Make sure the front hand guard is not damaged and that there are no visible defects such as cracks.
Move the front hand guard forwards and back to make sure it moves freely and that it is securely anchored to the clutch cover.
Checking the inertia brake release Throttle lock
Hold the chain saw over a stump or other rm object. Let go of the front handle so that the bar drops towards the stump as the chain saw rotates around the rear handle.
Make sure the throttle control is locked at the idle setting when the throttle lock is released.
Press the throttle lock and make sure it returns to its original position when you release it.
When the bar hits the stump the brake should be applied. Check that the throttle control and throttle lock move freely and that the return springs work properly.
Checking the brake trigger
Place the chain saw on rm ground and start it. Make sure the chain does not touch the ground or any other object. See the instructions under the heading Start and stop. Start the chain saw and apply full throttle. Release the throttle control and check that the chain stops and remains stationary. If the chain rotates when the throttle control is in the idle position you should check the carburettor idle adjustment.

Grasp the chain saw rmly, wrapping your ngers and thumbs around the handles. Check that the chain catcher is not damaged and is rmly attached to the body of the chain saw.
Apply full throttle and activate the chain brake by tilting your left wrist forward onto the front hand guard. Do not let go of the front handle. The chain should stop immediately.
Check that the right hand guard is not damaged and that there are no visible defects, such as cracks.

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Never use a mufer if the spark arrestor mesh is missing or defective. WARNING! Never use a machine with faulty safety equipment. The machines safety equipment must be checked and maintained as described in this section. If your machine fails any of these checks contact your service agent to get it repaired.
Regularly check the vibration damping units for cracks or deformation.
Make sure the vibration damping units are securely attached to the engine unit and handle unit.

Cutting equipment

This section describes how to choose and maintain your cutting equipment in order to: Reduce the risk of kickback. Reduce the risk of the chain breaking or jumping. Obtain maximum cutting performance. Extend the life of cutting equipment.
Start the engine and make sure the engine stops when you move the stop switch to the stop setting.

General rules

Only use cutting equipment recommended by us! See the Technical data section.
Keep the chains cutting teeth properly sharpened! Follow our instructions and use the recommended le gauge. A damaged or badly sharpened chain increases the risk of accidents.
Never use a machine that has a faulty mufer. Maintain the correct raker clearance! Follow our instructions and use the recommended raker gauge. Too large a clearance increases the risk of kickback.
Regularly check that the mufer is securely attached to the machine. Keep the chain properly tensioned! If the chain is slack it is more likely to jump off and lead to increased wear on the bar, chain and drive sprocket.

Round le diameter

File depth
Sharpening your chain and adjusting raker clearance
It is very difcult to sharpen a chain correctly without the right equipment. We recommend that you use our le gauge. This will help you obtain the maximum kickback reduction and cutting performance from your chain.
WARNING! The risk of kickback is increased with a badly sharpened chain!
General information on sharpening cutting teeth
Never use a blunt chain. When the chain is blunt you have to exert more pressure to force the bar through the wood and the cuttings will be very small. If the chain is very blunt it will not produce any cuttings at all. Wood powder would be the only result. A sharp chain eats its way through the wood and produces long, thick cuttings. See the Technical data section for information about sharpening your chain.
WARNING! The following faults will increase the risk of kickback considerably: File angle too large

Cutting angle too small

The cutting part of the chain is called the cutting link and this consists of a cutting tooth (A) and the raker lip (B). The cutting depth is determined by the difference in height between the two.

File diameter too small

Sharpening cutting teeth
When you sharpen a cutting tooth there are ve important factors to remember. 1 Filing angle
To sharpen cutting teeth you will need a round le and a le gauge. See the Technical data section for information on the size of le and gauge that are recommended for the chain tted to your chain saw.

Cutting angle

Check that the chain is correctly tensioned. A slack chain will move sideways, making it more difcult to sharpen correctly.
Always le cutting teeth from the inside face. Reduce the pressure on the return stroke. File all the teeth on one side rst, then turn the chain saw over and le the teeth on the other side. To adjust the raker clearance you will need a at le and a raker gauge.
File all the teeth to the same length. When the length of the cutting teeth is reduced to 4 mm (0.16") the chain is worn out and should be replaced.
Place the gauge over the raker lip.
Place the le over the part of the lip that protrudes through the gauge and le off the excess. The clearance is correct when you no longer feel any resistance as you draw the le over the gauge.
General advice on setting raker clearance
When you sharpen the cutting teeth you reduce the raker clearance (=cutting depth). To maintain optimal cutting performance you must le back the raker lip to the recommended height. See the Technical data section to nd the raker clearance for your particular chain.

Tensioning the chain

Visible cracks in rivets and links. Whether the chain is stiff. Whether rivets and links are badly worn.
To prolong the life of the bar you should turn it over daily.
We recommend you compare the existing chain with a new chain to decide how badly the existing chain is worn.
WARNING! Most chain saw accidents happen when the chain touches the operator. Wear personal protective equipment. See instructions under the heading Personal protective equipment. Do not tackle any job that you feel you are not adequately trained for. See instructions under the headings Personal protective equipment, How to avoid kickback, Cutting equipment and General working instructions. Avoid situations where there is a risk of kickback. See instructions under the heading Machines safety equipment. Use the recommended protective equipment and check its condition. See instructions under the heading General working instructions. Check that all the chain saw safety features are working. See instructions under the headings General working instructions and General safety precautions.
When the length of the cutting teeth has worn down to only 4 mm the chain must be replaced.

Chain drive sprocket

Regularly check the degree of wear on the drive sprocket. Replace if wear is excessive. Replace the drive sprocket whenever you replace the chain.

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How to avoid kickback
3 Most kickback accidents happen during limbing. Make sure you are standing rmly and that there is nothing in the way that might make you trip or lose your balance. Lack of concentration can lead to kickback if the kickback zone of the bar accidentally touches a branch, nearby tree or some other object.
WARNING! Kickback can happen very suddenly and violently; kicking the chain saw, bar and chain back at the user. If this happens when the chain is moving it can cause very serious, even fatal injuries. It is vital you understand what causes kickback and that you can avoid it by taking care and using the right working technique.

What is kickback?

The word kickback is used to describe the sudden reaction that causes the chain saw and bar to jump off an object when the upper quadrant of the tip of the bar, known as the kickback zone, touches an object.
Never use the chain saw above shoulder height and try not to cut with the tip of the bar. Never use the chain saw one-handed!
Kickback always occurs in the cutting plane of the bar. Normally the chain saw and bar are thrown backwards and upwards towards the user. However, the chain saw may move in a different direction depending on the way it was being used when the kickback zone of the bar touched the object.
In order to keep control of your saw, always maintain a rm foothold. Never work on a ladder, in a tree or on any other insecure support.
Kickback only occurs if the kickback zone of the bar touches an object.
Always use a fast cutting speed, i.e. full throttle. Take great care when you cut with the top edge of the bar, i.e. when cutting from the underside of the object. This is known as cutting on the push stroke. The chain tries to push the chain saw back towards the user.
1 If you understand what kickback is and how it happens then you can reduce or eliminate the element of surprise. By being prepared you reduce the risk. Kickback is usually quite mild, but it can sometimes be very sudden and violent. Always hold the chain saw rmly with your right hand on the rear handle and your left hand on the front handle. Wrap your ngers and thumbs around the handles. You should use this grip whether you are right-handed or lefthanded. This grip minimises the effect of kickback and lets you keep the chain saw under control. Do not let go of the handles!
Unless the user resists this pushing force there is a risk that the chain saw will move so far backwards that only the kickback zone of the bar is in contact with the tree, which will lead to a kickback.
Cutting with the bottom edge of the bar, i.e. from the top of the object downwards, is known as cutting on the pull stroke. In this case the chain saw pulls itself towards the tree and the front edge of the chain saw body rests naturally on the trunk when cutting. Cutting on the pull stroke gives the operator better control over the chain saw and the position of the kickback zone. Before use:
Check that the chain brake works correctly and is not damaged. See the instructions under the heading Checking the chain brake. Check that the rear right hand guard is not damaged. Check that the throttle lock works correctly and is not damaged. Check that the start and stop switch works correctly and is not damaged. Check that all handles are free from oil. Check that the anti vibration system works and is not damaged. Check that the mufer is securely attached and not damaged. Check that all parts of the chain saw are tightened correctly and that they are not damaged or missing. Check that the chain catcher is in place and not damaged.

Do not use the machine in bad weather, such as dense fog, heavy rain, strong wind, intense cold, etc. Working in bad weather is tiring and often brings added risks, such as icy ground, unpredictable felling direction, etc.
Take great care when removing small branches and avoid cutting bushes (i.e. cutting many small branches at the same time). Small branches can be grabbed by the chain and thrown back at you, causing serious injury.

Basic cutting technique

General
Always use full throttle when cutting! Reduce the speed to idle after every cut (running the engine for too long at full throttle without any load, i.e. without any resistance from the chain during cutting, can lead to serious engine damage). Cutting from above = Cutting on the pull stroke. Cutting from below = Cutting on the push stroke.
Make sure you can move and stand safely. Check the area around you for possible obstacles (roots, rocks, branches, ditches, etc.) in case you have to move suddenly. Take great care when working on sloping ground.
Cutting on the push stroke increases the risk of kickback. See instructions under the heading How to avoid kickback.
Cutting = General term for cutting through wood. Limbing = Cutting branches off a felled tree. Splitting = When the object you are cutting breaks off before the cut is complete. Take the utmost care when cutting through branches or logs that are in tension. A log or branch that is in tension can suddenly spring back into its natural position before or after you cut it. If you stand on the wrong side or start cutting in the wrong place it may strike you or your chain saw, so that you lose control. Both situations could cause serious injury.
There are ve important factors you should consider before making a cut:
1 Make sure the cutting equipment will not jam in the cut.
Make sure the object you are cutting will not split.
Before moving your chain saw switch off the engine and lock the chain using the chain brake. Carry the chain saw with the bar and chain pointing backwards. Fit a guard to the bar before transporting the chain saw or carrying it for any distance.

Portable

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WHAT IS WHAT?

Husqvarna 55

XXXX XXXXXXX

Husqvarna AB Huskvarna, SWEDEN
What is what on the chain saw?
9 Cylinder cover Front handle Front hand guard Starter Chain oil tank Starter handle Adjuster screws, carburettor Choke control/Start throttle lock Rear handle 14 Chain 15 Bar 16 Spike bumper 17 Chain catcher (Catches chain if it jumps or breaks.) 18 Clutch cover 19 Right hand guard (Protects right hand if chain breaks or jumps.) 20 Throttle control 21 Throttle lock (Prevents accidental operation of throttle control.) 22 Combination spanner 23 Chain tensioning screw 24 Operators manual (EPA) 25 Bar guard
10 Stop switch (Ignition on/off switch.) 11 Fuel tank 12 Mufer 13 Bar tip sprocket

ASSEMBLY

Fitting the bar and chain
Tension the chain by turning the chain tensioning screw clockwise using the combination spanner. The chain should be tensioned until it does not sag from the underside of the bar.
WARNING! Always wear gloves, when working with the chain, in order to protect your hands from injury.
Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front hand guard towards the front handle.
The chain is correctly tensioned when it does not sag from the underside of the bar, but can still be turned easily by hand. Hold up the bar tip and tighten the bar nuts with the combination spanner.
Remove the bar nuts and remove the clutch cover (chain brake). Take off the transportation ring (A).
When tting a new chain, the chain tension has to be checked frequently until the chain is run-in. Check the chain tension regularly. A correctly tensioned chain ensures good cutting performance and long life.
Fit the bar over the bar bolts. Place the bar in its rearmost position. Place the chain over the drive sprocket locate it in the groove on the bar. Begin on the top edge of the bar.
Make sure that the edges of the cutting links are facing forward on the top edge of the bar. Fit the clutch cover and locate the chain adjuster pin in the hole in the bar. Check that the drive links of the chain t correctly over the drive sprocket and that the chain is correctly located in the groove in the bar. Tighten the bar nuts nger tight.

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FUEL HANDLING
CAUTION! The machine is equipped with a two-stroke engine and must always been run using a mixture of gasoline and two-stroke engine oil. It is important to accurately measure the amount of oil to be mixed to ensure that the correct mixture is obtained. When mixing small amounts of fuel, even small inaccuracies can drastically affect the ratio of the mixture. WARNING! Always ensure there is adequate ventilation when handling fuel.

Warm engine

Use the same procedure as for starting a cold engine but without setting the choke control in the choke position. The correct choke/start throttle setting is obtained by moving the choke control to the choke position and then pushing it in again.
WARNING! Note the following before starting: Never start a chain saw unless the bar, chain and all covers are tted correctly. Otherwise the clutch can come loose and cause personal injuries. Always move the machine away from the refuelling area before starting. Place the machine on rm ground. Make sure you have a secure footing and that the chain cannot touch anything. Keep people and animals well away from the working area.

Cold engine

Grip the front handle with your left hand. Hold the chain saw on the ground by placing your right foot through the rear handle. Pull the starter handle with your right hand and pull out the starter cord slowly until you feel a resistance (as the starter pawls engage) then pull rmly and rapidly. Never wrap the starter cord around your hand Push in the choke control as soon as the engine re and make repeated starting attempts. Immediately press and release the throttle when the engine starts. That will disengage the throttle latch.
Starting: The chain brake should be activated when starting the chain saw. Activate the chain brake by pushing the front hand guard forwards. Ignition: Move the ignition switch to startposition. Choke: Set the choke control in the choke position. Start throttle: The correct choke/start throttle setting is obtained by moving the control to the choke position. As the chain brake is still activated the engine must return to idling speed as soon as possible by disengaging the throttel latch in order to avoid unnecessery wear on the clutch assembly. CAUTION! Do not pull the starter cord all the way out and do not let go of the starter handle when the cord is fully extended. This can damage the machine.
Pull the front hand guard towards the front handle. The chain brake is now disengaged. Your saw is ready for use.

Stopping

Stop the engine by switching off the ignition. (Move the ignition switch to stop position.)

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MAINTENANCE

Carburettor

Your Husqvarna product has been designed and manufactured to specications that reduce harmful emissions. After your unit has been run 8-10 tanks of fuel the engine has broken in. To ensure that your unit is at peak performance and producing the least amount of harmful emissions after break in, have your authorized servicing dealer, who has a revolution counter at his disposal, to adjust your carburetor for optimum operating conditions.

Fine adjustment

When the machine has been run-in the carburettor should be nely adjusted. The ne adjustment should be carried out by a qualied person. First adjust the L-jet, then the idling screw T and then the H-jet.

Conditions

Before any adjustments are made the air lter should be clean and the cylinder cover tted. Adjusting the carburettor while a dirty air lter is in use will result in a leaner mixture next time the lter is cleaned. This can give rise to serious engine damage. Carefully turn the L and H needle to the mid point. Do not attempt to adjust the L and H jets beyond either stop as this could cause damage. Now start the machine according to the starting instructions and let it warm up for 10 minutes. CAUTION! If the chain rotates while idling the T-screw must be turned anti-clockwise until the chain stops. Place the machine on a at surface so that the bar points away from you and so that the bar and chain do not come into contact with the surface or other objects.
Function, Basic settings, Fine adjustment
WARNING! Do not start the chain saw unless the bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake) are tted, otherwise the clutch may come loose and cause personal injury.

Function

The carburettor governs the engines speed via the throttle control. Air and fuel are mixed in the carburettor. The air/fuel mixture is adjustable. Correct adjustment is essential to get the best performance from the machine. The setting of the carburetor means that the engine is adepted to local conditions, for example, the climate, altitude, fuel and the type of 2-stroke oil. The carburettor has three adjustment controls: L = Low speed jet H = High speed jet T = Idle adjustment screw

Low speed jet L

Turn the low speed jet L clockwise until it stops. If the engine accelerates poorly or idles unevenly, turn the low speed jet L anticlockwise until good acceleration and idling are achieved. CAUTION! If the chain rotates while idling the T-screw must be turned anti-clockwise until the chain stops.
Final setting of the idling speed T
Adjust the idle speed with the T-screw. If it is necessary to readjust, turn the T-screw clockwise while the engine is running, until the chain starts to rotate. Then turn counter-clockwise until the chain stops. A correctly adjusted idle speed setting occors when the engine runs smoothly in every position. It should also be good margin to the rpm when the chain starts to rotate.
The amount of fuel that is mixed with the air admitted by the throttle opening is adjusted using the low speed jet. If this is turned clockwise it gives a leaner air/fuel mixture (less fuel) and if it is turned anti-clockwise it gives a richer air/fuel mixture (more fuel). A leaner mixture gives a higher engine speed, while a richer mixture gives a lower engine speed. The T-screw regulates the throttle setting at idle speed. If the T-screw is turned clockwise this gives a higher idle speed; turning it anti-clockwise gives a lower idle speed.

Clean the air lter daily, or more often in demanding conditions. Remove the air lter after taking off the air lter cover. When retting make sure that the air lter seals tightly against the lter holder. Clean the lter by brushing or shaking it.
The lter can be cleaned more thoroughly by washing it in water and detergent.
Some mufers are equipped with a special spark arrestor mesh. If your machine has this type of mufer, you should clean the mesh at least once a week. This is best done with a wire brush. An air lter that has been in use for a long time cannot be cleaned completely. The lter must therefore be replaced with a new one at regular intervals. A damaged air lter must always be replaced. CAUTION! The mesh must be replaced if it is damaged. If the mesh is blocked the machine will overheat and this will cause damage to the cylinder and piston. Never use a machine with a mufer that is in poor condition.
Needle bearing lubrication Air Injection centrifugal cleaning
Centrifugal cleaning means the following: All air to the carburettor passes through the starter. Dirt and dust is centrifuged out by the cooling fan. The clutch drum is tted with one of the following drive sprockets: A Spur sprocket (the chain sprocket is welded on the drum) B Rim sprocket (replaceable)
IMPORTANT! In order to maintain operation of the centrifugal cleaning system it must be regularly maintained. Both versions have a needle bearing on the drive shaft, which has to be greased regularly (once a week). CAUTION! Use only high quality bearing grease or engine oil. Clean the air intake to the starter, the ns on the ywheel, the space around the ywheel, inlet pipe and carburettor compartment.

Winter use

During cold weather and under powder snow conditions, operating problems can arise due to: Too low engine temperature. Icing of the air lter and carburettor.

Cooling system

To keep the working temperature as low as possible the machine is equipped with a cooling system. The cooling system consists of: 5 Air intake on the starter. Air guide plate. Fins on the ywheel. Cooling ns on the cylinder. Cylinder cover (directs cold air over the cylinder).
Special measures are therefore often required: Partly mask the air inlet on the starter to increase the working temperature of the engine. Preheat the intake air to the carburettor by removing the seal between the cylinder and the carburettor space.
Temperature 0C (32F) or colder:
Twist the cover so that preheated air from the cylinder can enter the carburettor space to prevent icing of the air lter, etc., then t the rubber seal to the fuel pipe by the main air intake.
Clean the cooling system with a brush once a week, more often in demanding conditions. A dirty or blocked cooling system results in the machine overheating which causes damage to the piston and cylinder.

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Temperature -5C (23F) or colder:

Note: For the chains above you are free to choose between 0,050" and 0,058" gauge drive link for the corresponding bar, see the table below. 0,050"/1,3 mm 0,058"/1,5mm H30 H22 H25 H23 H21 H80 H81 H46 H42 H47 H48
FEDERAL EMISSION CONTROL WARRANTY STATEMENT
YOUR WARRANTY RIGHTS AND OBLIGATIONS
The EPA (The US Environmental Protection Agency), Environment Canada and Husqvarna Forest & Garden are pleased to explain the emissions control system warranty on your 2001 and later small nonroad engine. In U.S. and Canada, new small nonroad engines must be designed, built and equipped to meet the federal stringent anti-smog standards. Husqvarna Forest & Garden must warrant the emission control system on your small nonroad engine for the period of time listed below provided there has been no abuse, neglect or improper maintenance of your unit. Your emmission control system includes Parts such as the carburetor and the ignition system. Where a warrantable condition exists, Husqvarna Forest & Garden will repair your small nonroad engine at no cost to you. Expenses covered under warranty include diagnosis, parts and labor. your warranty rights and responsibilities, you should contact your nearest authorized servicing dealer or call Husqvarna Forest & Garden at 1-800-487-5963. WARRANTY PERIOD Any warranted part which is not scheduled for replacement as required maintenance, or which is scheduled only for regular inspection to the effect of repair or replace as necessary shall be warranted for 2 years. Any warranted part which is scheduled for replacement as required maintenance shall be warranted for the period of time up to the rst scheduled replacement point for that part. DIAGNOSIS The owner shall not be charged for diagnostic labor which leads to the determination that a warranted part is defective, if the diagnostic work is performed at an approved Husqvarna Forest & Garden servicing dealer. CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES Husqvarna Forest & Garden may be liable for damages to other engine components caused by the failure of a warranted part still under warranty.
MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY COVERAGE
The 2001 and later small nonroad engines are warranted for two years. If any emission related part on you engine (as listed above) is defective, the part will be repaired or replaced by Husqvarna Forest & Garden.

WHAT IS NOT COVERED

All failures caused by abuse, neglect or improper maintenance are not covered.
ADD -ON OR MODIFIED PARTS
The use of add-on or modied parts can be grounds for disallowing a warranty claim. Husqvarna Forest & Garden is not liable to cover failures of warranted parts caused by the use of add-on or modied parts.