SECTION 1

DISASSEMBLY OF THE GEARCASE AND PLANETARY A. All solid state KitchenAid mixers have the same motor and control parts and the gears in the gearcase are alike, with one exception: K45SS units built prior to May 6th, 2002. Planetary parts are all the same, except that some early production K5SS had a lead weight. Gearing and motor instructions are for both tilt head and bowl lift machines and any differences will be pointed out. BOWL LIFT - Models K5SS,KSM5,KSM50, KSMC50,KPM5, KPM50, KP50. The bowl is raised and lowered into position. TILT HEAD - Models K45SS, KSM45, KSM75, KSM90, KSM103, KSM110, KSM150, KSM151, KSM152. The mixer head is tilted up and down into position. Bowl, column, base and bowl lift details are covered separately in section 7. B. Before repairs are attempted on any KitchenAid mixer, a wattmeter test should be made. To make the test, set the wattmeter to the proper voltage. Next, plug the cord from the mixer into the wattmeter. Turn on the current and run the mixer.
KitchenAid stand mixer shown with a digital wattmeter
If the wattmeter shows up to 135 watts, going from stir to #10 speed, the mixer is in good condition. If the wattmeter reading is 175 to 400 watts, there is a problem. High wattage mixer readings indicate either electrical or mechanical problems. Check first for bearing/gear drag, then for motor/brush problems. CAUTION: Always remove power cord from electrical outlet before servicing any part of the mixer. PAGE 2
C. Note: remove the bowl and any attachments before disassembly of unit. Remove the #6-32x3/8 (tapered head) screw from the end cover (Fig. 1).

FIG # 1

Fig. 3 Loosen the hinge pin setscrew to remove the pedestal from the bottomcover.
Fig. 1 The end cover is removed by removing the tapered head endcover screw.
Using a drift punch and hammer, drive out the hinge pin (Fig. 4) and lift the pedestal off the gearcase-bottom cover.
Remove the two #6-32x3/16 screws that hold the trimband to the gearcase-motor housing (Fig. 2). With the screws removed, take the trimband off and set aside.

Fig. 4 A drift punch and hammer is used to drive out the hinge pin.
Fig. 2 The trimband can be removed after removing the trimband screws.
D. To save the paint, lay the unit in a padded cradle or on a cloth pad. To remove the pedestal from the gearcase-bottom cover, turn the unit upside down in a padded cradle. Loosen the set screw with a screwdriver (Fig. 3) PAGE 3
E. To remove the planetary, first remove the drip ring. Use a screwdriver on the upper edge of the drip ring and gently tap the screwdriver to remove the drip ring (Fig. 5).
Stand Mixer Service Manual LIT4177310-C 2005 KitchenAid
F. Remove the power cord from the bottom cover by sliding the molded strain relief out of the slot in the bottom cover (Fig. 8).
Fig. 5 The Drip Cup fits tightly and must be started off by tapping it.
With a 5/32 drift punch, remove the groove pin that holds the planetary to the vertical center shaft (Fig. 6).
Fig. 8 Pull back on the molded strain relief to remove the power cord from the slot in the bottom cover.
To remove the power cord with the Heyco strain relief used on older models, use a pair of pliers to squeeze the strain relief while pulling up (Fig. 9). Reverse this procedure to reinstall it.
Fig. 6 Removal of the groove pin that holds the planetary to the vertical center shaft
With the pin out, the planetary can be removed from the center shaft. Using two (2) screwdrivers, pry the planetary up and off the shaft (Fig. 7).
Fig. 9 Removal of Heyco strain relief using pliers.
G. To remove the bottom cover from the gearcasemotor housing, unscrew the five (5) #10-24 special screws (Fig. 10). These screws hold the internal gear into the bottom cover. Next remove the four (4) filister head screws from the bottom cover (Fig. 11).
Fig. 7 Use two screwdrivers to pry the planetary off the shaft.

Page 4

Fig. 10 Removal of the 5 special screws holding the internal gear in the bottom cover.
Fig. 12 While lifting up on the center shaft, use a screw driver to gently pry the bottom cover from the housing.
H. Remove the attachment hub bevel gear from the gearcase-motor housing. This gear is removed by simply pulling it out of the attachment hub (Fig. 13). The gear will clear the worm of the motors armature shaft and should be easy to remove.

Flat Spring

Fig. 25 Removing the speed control spring, flat spring and the speed control link assembly.
E. Unscrew and remove the two #10-24 nuts (Fig. 26).
Fig. 24 The pivot screw and tension washer are removed with a phillips screwdriver.
Before removing the speed control link and cam assembly, remove the control board spring from the link. The flat spring is removed as you remove the speed control link assembly. The speed control link and cam assembly can be removed by pulling it out of the gearcase-motor housing (Fig. 25).
Fig. 26 Two 10-24 nuts are removed from the bearing bracket.
Remove the bearing bracket (Fig. 27). Now remove the motor stud sleeve from the stator stud (Fig. 28).

Page 8

Fig. 27 Bearing bracket being removed after two #10-24 nuts have been removed.
Fig. 29 the brush holder caps are loosened to access brushes for removal. Make sure to mark orientation.
G. The armature can now be removed. With the attachment hub bevel gear removed, insert a drift punch through the attachment hub opening and gently tap the armature back through the stator using a block of wood to protect the shaft (Fig. 30).
Fig. 28 The motor stud sleeve is shown being removed after bearing bracket removal.
F. Unscrew the two brush holder screw caps and remove the brushes and springs (Fig. 29). Viewing from the rear, mark the brushes right and left, and also the top of the brush, just as it was removed from the motor.
Fig. 30 A block of wood is used to protect the motor shaft when removing the armature.
Remove the worm end bearing washer and the fan end spacer washer. Page 9
H. Pull the two wires from the rear of the stator through the slot in the gearcase-motor housing so they are inside the gearcase-motor housing and sticking out the back (Fig. 31).
I. To remove the brush holder , it will be necessary to remove the other stator stud. Under the stator studs are #10-24x1/4 cup point screws. To remove the set screws, use a 3/32 Allen wrench; older models may use a flat screwdriver (Fig. 33).

Stator Wires

Fig. 31 Wire orientation inside the gearcase-motor housing
Using long pliers, pull the brush slips from the stator out of the brush holders. Note orientation of stator clip in brush holder. Remove the two #10-24 nuts from the stator studs and carefully set aside for use during reassembly. Unscrew one stator stud and pull out the stator (Fig. 32).

Bearing Washer Spacing Washer
Fig. 38 Check the blades of the armature ventilating fan and straighten if bent.

Routing Of White Wire

Fig. 37 Route the two stator wires through the slot in the motor housing.
Place the stator stud sleeve over the stator stud and route the white wire from the stator between the stud sleeve and the motor housing. F. Check the armature on a growler or take the armature to a electric motor repair shop and let them test it. If it is not in good condition, replace it with a new one.
Fig. 39 Locating the armature into the gearcase-motor housing.
If necessary, tap the end of the armature shaft with a non-metallic mallet to seat the armature bearing into the gearcase-motor housing.
H. Check the bearing in the bearing bracket. To replace the bearing, remove the retaining G. Check the ventilating fan. Straighten the blades clip (Fig. 40). if they are bent (Fig. 38). Take out the felt washer and the old bearing. If the armature is replaced, move the washers from Place the new bearing in cavity. the old armature to the corresponding end of the new Soak the felt washer with oil and place in cavity. armature. Place the retainer on the bearing so that the Add one drop of Locktite to the outer race of the tongue fits into the square notch and push the ball bearing and install the armature in the retainer clip in place. motor housing (Fig. 39). Page 12
On older models, to replace the bearing, remove the three #4-40x1/2 pan head screws and lift off the bearing retainer. Take out the old bearing and felt washer. Place new bearing in cavity with the square notch toward the top of the bracket. Soak the felt washer in bearing cap with oil. Place the retainer on the bearing and screw in place with the three #4-40x1/2 screws.
J. The armature should always be checked for end play. Armature should turn freely with minimal end play. On older models - after the thrust bearing assembly has been seated properly and proper amount of spacing washers placed at the rear, there should only be a perceptible amount of end play to assure free operation of the armature. If there is too much end play, add another thin washer. To do this, remove the bearing bracket and add the washer to the armature shaft, then reassemble the bearing bracket into the gear case-motor housing. K. If the old brushes are more than 5/16 long, assemble them in the brush holders. From the back of the unit, put the brush marked right in the right side of brush holder. Be sure the side marked up is at the top. Push the brush in and lock it in place with a brush holder screw cap (Fig. 42). Put left hand brush in the mixer in the same way.

Tongue

Square Notch
Fig. 40 Bearing bracket assembled & unassembled
I. Install the bearing bracket. Start bracket onto the two stator studs. Push the bracket back until the stator studs are through the bracket and it seats into the ribs of the gear case. Start the two nuts on the stator studs and turn them until the bearing bracket is seated (Fig. 41).
Brush holder screw cap assembly
Fig. 42 Placing one of the brushes into the mixer brush holder.
Fig. 41 Tighten the two nuts on the stator studs to seat the bearing bracket.
L. Place the speed control link and cam assembly through the slot in the bearing bracket with the cam portion of the speed control link and cam assembly toward the top of the gearcase-motor housing. Place the flat spring in position and slide the mixer speed link and cam assembly over the flat spring; attach the speed control spring on the speed control link and cam assembly (Fig. 43).

Page 13

Speed Control Spring
Fig. 43 Slide the speed control link over the flat spring and attach the speed control spring to the link.
Place the stud on the speed lever through the hole in the speed control link. Place the tension washer on the pivot screw and screw it into the gearcase-motor housing until tight (Fig. 44).
Fig. 45 The governor shown before being placed on the motor shaft.
Fig. 44 Securing the pivot screw to the gearcase after placing the tension washer.
M. If the spring in the governor is rusty, replace the governor assembly. Place the governor drive pin in the armature shaft. With drive pin at top of the shaft, place the governor on the shaft with the keyway up (Fig.45). Push the governor onto the shaft as far as it will go. NOTE: Never attempt to take the governor apart. The purpose of this picture is to show where governor seats on drive pin (Fig. 46).
Fig. 47 Using a 3/8 nut driver to seat the governor. Tap gently. Never drive directly against governor ball.

Page 14

N. If the phase control was removed or has been replaced, make sure the heat sink on the triac unit has sufficient amount of thermal conductive compound applied to that surface before assembly. Place the #4-40x1/4 pan head screw through the hole in the triac and screw it into the bearing bracket (Fig. 48) until it is tight (4 - 5 in. lbs.).
Turn in the screws until 3/8 of the screw remains. Have both screws turned in evenly so the opposite end of the control plate rests squarely on the extensions of the bearing bracket. With long nose pliers, hook the control plate spring into the hole on the bottom part of the control plate (Fig. 50).

Fig. 48 The triac is shown being secured to the bearing bracket.
CAUTION: Do not attach the phase control excessively tight, as this pressure could deform the heat sink, resulting in damage to the control. O. Place the control plate on the bearing bracket with the adjusting screws at the top (Fig. 49).
Fig. 50 The control plate spring being grasped with pliers and positioning the hook into the hole at the bottom.
Place the end seal onto the mixer. Connect the two flag terminals from the stator and the four flag terminals from the phase control to the control plate. Refer to the wiring diagram for proper terminal connections. Be certain flag terminal connections to control plate are tight. If necessary, crimp the terminals with a needle nose pliers. Note: Leave the control unit. It is now ready for timing, but a better job can be done when mixer is completely reassembled.
Fig. 49 Placing the control board on the bearing bracket.

Page 15

SECTION 4 REPAIRS TO GEARCASE AND PLANETARY NOTE: Grease is not shown in these pictures. A. Examine the bearings in the attachment hub area and top of the gearcase. These bearings are cast into the gearcase-motor housing. If they are worn badly, the entire housing must be replaced. However, shafts turn slowly in these bearings and the bearings have a long life. B. Examine the attachment hub bevel gear. If it shows wear in the teeth, it should be replaced. If the gear is replaced, coat the shaft of the bevel gear with a light grease. Push it into the attachment hub bearing from the inside of the gearcase (Fig. 51). It does not have a washer, so push it in as far as it will go.
Fig. 52 Worm gear bracket bearing and pin assembly.
D. Remove the center bevel gear and vertical center shaft. Push the vertical center shaft upward, exposing the pin (Fig. 53), and remove the pin.
Fig. 51 The attachment hub bevel gear being pushed into the attachment hub bearing from inside the gearcase. Fig. 53 Remove pin after pushing vertical center shaft up.
C. With a phillips head screwdriver, remove the three #10-24x7/16 phillips filister head screws and lock washer assemblies and lift up on the worm gear bracket bearing and pin assembly to remove (Fig. 52).
Pull out the vertical center shaft with your fingers and remove the shaft from the the bottom of the gear case bottom cover (Fig. 54). Check the shaft for bearing wear. Dark gray or indented surfaces indicate shaft should be replaced. Lift gears from case for inspection (Fig. 55).

Dowel pin

Fig. 58 The two dowels must fit into the base of the worm gear bracket.
Place the three lock washer screw assemblies in the holes and screw them into the bottom cover (Fig. 59). Be sure screws are tight. (18 - 23 in/lbs.)
Lock washer screw assembly
Fig. 60 Initial mating of bottom cover to gearcase - motor housing.
Fig. 59 Secure the three lock washer screw assemblies into the bottom cover.
Start the shaft into the upper bearing and slowly push the parts together. Insert a punch into the center shaft, turning back and forth, while pressing down on the bottom cover, to align the gears. CAUTION: Under no circumstances should you force the gearcase and bottom cover together. If the gears are properly aligned, these two parts will assemble with little or no force required.

Page 18

P. If necessary to replace the internal gear, pry it from the bottom cover (Fig. 61).
Fig. 63 Secure the four fillister head screws.
The bearing is an integral part of the planetary. Hold the agitator shaft firmly and remove the pinion retaining clip (Fig. 64).
Fig. 61 Internal gear can be pried from the bottom cover and replaced if necessary.
When installing new gear, start with beveled side down; align notches with holes in gear case and tap evenly into place using a non-metallic mallet. Insert and tighten the five special screws evenly (Fig. 62) to 18 - 20 in. lbs. torque.
Fig. 64 Hold the agitator shaft and remove the retaining clip.
Lift off the pinion. Take out the pin and remove the washer (Fig. 65). Pull the agitator shaft out.
Fig. 62 Tighten the five special screws evenly to 18-20 in. lbs. torque using the sequence shown.
Insert the four #10-24x1 fillister head screws into the bottom cover making sure they are tight (Fig. 63) (18 - 20in/lbs.). Q. Place a small amount of Benalene 930-2 lubricant on the teeth of the internal gear. R. Check the condition of the planetary. If there is any play in the agitator shaft and the bearing (not shown), replace the planetary and the shaft.
Fig. 65 Lift the pinion off and take out the pin and remove the washer; then pull out the shaft.

Page 19

S. The agitator shaft is complete as an assembly. Lubricate the shaft and push it up into the bearing as far as it will go. Place the washer(s) on the shaft. Insert the pin through the shaft. Set the pinion gear on the shaft so that the notches in the pinion align with the pin in the shaft. Install the retaining clip in the groove on the shaft (Fig. 64).

SECTION 6 ADJUSTING THE CONTROL UNIT NOTE: When replacing a control plate, a cloth, (Fig. 76), hooked over the control plate spring, will keep the spring accessible, not allowing it to snap between the upper and lower gear case and become lost.

Plastic headlock

Control plate spring
Fig. 74 A plastic headlock has been riveted to the pedestal of international export models. An international model is shown locked in the inclined position. This is obtained by the action of the spring loaded lock lever used on these models.
Fig. 76 Hold the control plate spring with a cloth to retain access for reassembly.
The small circuit board shown (Fig. 75) is an RF filter used on international models that is held to the bottom cover with a single round head screw.
Fig. 75 International model bottom cover with R F filter and spring loaded lock lever.
A. After installing new parts in the control unit, the control plate must be adjusted so that all speeds will be the same as they were when the mixer was new. B. Make sure that all of the wire leads are properly connected and that they are locked in position properly. Plug the cord into a receptacle having the proper voltage. C. To adjust the speeds, move the switch lever to stir. This may or may not start the motor. If motor did not start, turn out the two adjusting screws evenly and stop when planetary turns about 60 revolutions per minute. To test the speed, hold a finger of the right hand at the planetary. Let the beater shaft hit the finger (Fig. 77). Count the number of times the finger is touched in 15 seconds. Adjust the two screws until the shaft touches the finger about 15 times in 15 seconds. D. When proper speed has been set, lock the two lock nuts using a 11/32 wrench (Fig. 78) and check the speed again.

Page 22

Fig. 77 Carefully let the planetary touch your finger to test speeds.
Fig. 79 Adjusting screw at the bottom of the control plate for speed # 6.
F. Try all mixer speeds from stir to #10. If stir and #6 are properly adjusted, the other speeds should automatically be correct. If there is a definite change in speed between #8 and #10, the control unit is correctly adjusted. G. A digital speed device (Fig. 80) is available to adjust the planetary speed settings on all KitchenAid mixers.
Insert this end into the attachment hub

Fig. 78 Once proper speed setting has been obtained, lock the two 11/32 lock nuts.
If a small correction must be made, make it without loosening the lock nuts. Test speeds as before, and, when correct, it will not be necessary to disturb the lock nuts. E. Move the switch lever to speed #6. At this setting, the planetary must turn at 180 revolutions per minute. Fig. 80 Electronic speed measuring device, with Check the speed as was done for stir speed. numerical display for setting speeds on KitchenAid mixers. The planetary should touch your finger 45 times in To use this device, the main control box needs to 15 seconds. If the planetary touches the finger less than that, turn be plugged into a 120 volt power source. Insert the tapered metal end of the speed sensing the adjusting screw at the bottom of the control plate unit into the attachment hub of the mixer. The (Fig.79). tapered hub is machined the same as all mixer Check the revolutions again and keep adjusting the attachments. Secure it in place by tightening the screw at the bottom until the right speed is reached. thumb screw. There is no locking of this screw. Page 23
The control plate is spaced 3/8 from the mounting bracket for the proper speed setting Starting Point. Plug the mixer into a watt meter set at the proper voltage. Turn the mixer to Stir Speed. The mixer may or may not start. If not, turn the two mounting screws out evenly until mixer starts. Adjust both screws evenly until a speed setting of 40 (40 - 64) is attained. Turn mixer to speed #6. The single screw at the bottom of the control plate is used to control this speed; adjust to attain a speed of 150 (141 - 170 ). Turn speed control to speed #8, pause, then turn to speed #10. There should be a noticed speed increase between #8 and #10 speeds. If not, back speed #6 down slightly until there is at least a minor speed change between #8 and #10. The #10 speed should be at least 185 (185 - 250). When proper speeds have been set, lock the two lock nuts on the upper mounting screws using an 11/32 wrench. Be careful not to move the mounting screws in or out during the locking process. Recheck speeds after locking the nuts, and if a fine adjustment is needed, it can be done without loosening the locking nuts. G. Place the trimband (Fig. 81) on the gearcase motor housing, and with the two # 6-32 x 3/16 screws, fasten it to the housing. Tuck in all the wire leads- insure no wires are pinched - and place the end cover on the end of the motor housing and secure it with the # 6-32 x 3/8 oval head screw (Fig. 82). H. With the end cover on the machine, test the speeds again to make sure no change took place in the control plate. With mixer working correctly, place the bowl on the bowl screw cap. Place the flat beater on the agitator shaft. There should be approximately 1/16 clearance between the bowl and beater. If the beater is too close to the bowl, turn the beater height adjusting screw out or in if it is too far away (Fig. 83). The mixer is now ready for operation.

Mallet Electronic Speed Measuring Device Hammer
Needle Nose Pliers Ratchet 11/32 Wrench #3 Phillips Bit Long Flat Screwdriver Short Flat Screwdriver #2 Phillips Screwdriver
3/8 Hollow Shank Nut Driver

Other Helpful Tools

1/2 Socket Awl or Pointed Punch
5/32 Drift Punch Volt / Ohm Meter

Watt Meter

A - 7 B - 11 C - 3 D - 1 1/2 E - 45 Degree Angle F - 1 1/2 G - 3/4 Plywood (8 x 11) B F A C D G Appendix - A
Cradle - Make your own from wood, cushion with cloth to avoid damage to finish of mixer.
Stand Mixer Service Manual LIT4177310-C 2005 KitchenAid PROBLEM SOLVING QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE
MIXER PROBLEM Switch lever clicks, but mixer will not run or buzz. MOST LIKELY CAUSE(S) Open electrical circuit. WHAT TO DO / CHECK Faulty plug. Faulty power cord. Faulty speed control plate. Wire loose from brush holder. Bad connection between field and cord. Open circuited armature. Open circuited field. Faulty switch ON/OFF. Bad phase control. Dirty contacts. Incorrect brush orientation. Check switch control link lever. Tighten the screws. Replace bowl screw cap. If none available, bend the four lugs or lips back into position. Turn the adjusting screw slightly to right or left to adjust clearance. Clearance should be 1/16" Remove planetary and take off the pinion gear. Replace the drive pin. Remove the planetary & bottom cover. NOTE: The complete bottom cover assembly must be replaced. Replace the governor. Control plate contacts not going closed. Adjust the control plate. Replace the phase control. Check the connections to the control plate. Repair any loose connections. Replace the control plate assembly. Remove end cover and reset "stir" speed. The planetary should revolve at 60 RPM on "stir" Turn switch lever to # 10 position and hold out the control plate as far as possible. Turn the switch lever to "OFF". Watch the governor as it recedes when the armature slows down. If faulty, replace it. Replace attachment hub gear. Replace gear case - motor housing.
Mixer will not shut off with switch. Bowl not held firmly on pedestal
ON/OFF switch not correctly adjusted with switch control link Loose clamp disc screws. Bent bowl screw cap.
Beater strikes bowl or too much clearance. Planetary turns - beater does not revolve. Mixer runs with a raspy, bumpy noise at the planetary. Mixer runs with bad vibration rumbling noise and goes to higher speeds.
Adjusting screw on tongue of bottom cover improperly set. Pinion gear drive pin broken. Bottom cover internal gear teeth worn or broken. Faulty governor.

Mixer runs on low speed, but has no power. Mixer has no power on low speed but OK on high speed.
Bad phase control. Bad electrical connections.
"Stir" speed improperly set Faulty governor.
Repeated worm gear failures.
Galled attachment gear. Attach hub bearing galled.

Appendix B-1

FASTENER REQUIREMENTS A. FASTENER AND TORQUE VALUES LISTED BELOW ARE THE FASTENERS AND TORQUE VALUES USED IN THE ASSEMBLY OF THE KITCHENAID. DESCRIPTION BASE & COLUMN MOUNTING SCREWS (4)(K45) BEARING BRACKET ASSEMBLY RETAINING NUTS (2) BOWL SCREW CAP RETAINING SCREWS (3)(K45) BOWL SPRING MOUNTING SCREWS (2)(K5) BOWL SUPPORT MOUNTING SCREWS (2)(K5) BRUSH HOLDER CAPS (2) BRUSH HOLDER SET SCREWS (2) *CONTROL LEVER (SPEED) PIVOT SCREW (1) CONTROL PLATE LOCKING NUTS (2) ELECTRIC CORD GROUNDING SCREW (1) END COVER RETAINING SCREW (1) FEET MOUNTING SCREWS (4)(K5) **GEAR CASE RETAINING SCREWS (9) LOCK WASHER UNDER 1 GEAR CASE MOUNTING SCREW (K45)(REAR) LOCK WASHER UNDER 1 BASE MOUNTING SCRW (KSMC50 ONLY) LOWER GEAR CASE AND COLUMN MOUNTING SCREW (4)(K5) AGITATOR SHAFT BEATER DRIVE PIN (1)(KSMC50) *GUARD PIN (1)(KSMC50) CIRCUIT BREAKER NUT (1) HEAD LOCK PIVOT SCREW (1)(K45) HINGE PIN LOCKING SCREW (1)(K45) ***STATOR RETAINING NUTS (2) PHASE CONTROL RETAINING SCREW (1) PLANETARY GEAR RETAINING SCREW (1)(KSMC50) TRIM BANDMOUNTING SCREW (2) EUROPEAN GROUND AND FILTER MOUNTING SCREWS STATOR STUD 125/150 30/40 HAND TIGHT HAND TIGHT 18/23 24/33 MIN 30 4/5 18/23 8/10 MIN 18 3/5 TORQUE IN LBS. 125/150 15/20 24/32 18/23 18/23 4/6 3/5 18/23 MIN 9 18/23 4/7 4/6 18/20
*** IF TORQUE GUNS RE SET AT 15/20 LBS.,NUTS MUST BE HAND TORQUED AT LEAST 1/4 OF A TURN WITH A HAND NUT RUNNER WORM GEAR BRACKET MOUNTING SCREWS (3) BOWL ADJUSTMENT SCREW (K5) 18/23 10/12
* BEFORE ASSEMBLY, DIP SPEED CONTROL LEVER PIVOT SCREW AND GURAD PIN INTO A LOCKTITE #271 SOLUTION
MIXER PROBLEM Mixer runs only on high speed. MOST LIKELY CAUSE(S) Control plate spring unhooked. WHAT TO DO / CHECK Remove end cover and check control plate spring. If unhooked, reattach to bottom of the control plate (check hook on end - rebend if necessary). With the line cord disconnected, pull the T-bar contacts open and insert a piece of paper between them so they can not close. Reapply power; the mixer should just run or buzz trying to run. If it operates at full speed, the phase control is defective. Check wiring. Check connections on the control board to make certain they are tight. First remove the planetary to check the beater shaft bearing in the planetary. If the beater shaft can be easily moved back and forth with a twisting effort, it is satisfactory. If it binds, replace the planetary. If it checks okay, recheck the mixer without it. If the mixer still uses excessive watts, it must be disassembled and the other bearings checked. Remove bearing bracket and replace. Replace the thrust ball bearing on the armature. First remove the planetary to check the beater shaft bearing in the planetary. If the beater shaft can be easily moved back and forth with a twisting effort, it is satisfactory. If it binds, replace the planetary. If it checks okay, recheck the mixer without it. If the mixer still uses excessive watts, it must be disassembled and the other bearings checked. Dissemble the motor and replace the armature assembly. Bend the fixed contact on the control board until the

Phase control shorted.

Mixer runs with a jerking clattering noise on low speed. Tight shim on vertical shaft between planetary and lower gear case. See item "V" - Section 4
Wires connected wrong. Loose connections on the control board. Tight bearing.
Loud rumbling or howling noise.
Mixer runs, but will not come up to high speed. Has power, but labors and uses excessive watts.
Worn spherical bearing on the end of the armature shaft. Worn armature thrust bearing. Tight bearing, if no smoke is apparent.
Armature shimmed too tight. See item "J "- Section 3 Mixer will not shut off with switch lever.
Overheated armature, if the mixer smokes. Switch not correctly adjusted with

Appendix B-2

MIXER PROBLEM Switch lever clicks, but mixer will not run or buzz. MOST LIKELY CAUSE(S) Open electrical circuit. WHAT TO DO / CHECK Progressively disassemble the speed control mechanism plus the motor and perform the following checks until the open circuit is found. Look for: Faulty plug on power cord. Faulty power cord. Bad connection in speed control plate. Faulty speed control plate. Wire lead clip detached from brushholder. Bad connection between field and cord. Open circuited armature. Open circuited field Incorrect brush orientation. Disconnect from power source. Turn the switch on and check for ground with a test lamp. Touch one lead of the test lamp to a prong on the plug on the power cord and the other lead to an unpainted surface on the motor housing. If the lamp lights, the mixer is grounded. Examine all the wiring in the order of its accessibility, until the grounded wire is found. If the mixer has a radio interference, condenser wired between a stator lead and power cord lead, remove it from the circuit. Examine all the bearings in the order of their accessibility, until the frozen bearing is found. Check wiring. Replace phase control. Remove motor brushes and check that they are not worn to less than 5/16". Replace with new brushes if excessively worn. Remove and replace armature. Check brushes for wear. Dissemble and check motor. Replace phase control.
Electrical shock to operator.
Bare lead touching the inside of the motor housing.
Mixer will not run although switch clicks, motor buzzes and smokes. Bad sparking at contact points or burned contacts on switch. Bad sparking at motor brushes.
Frozen bearing. Wired wrong. Faulty Phase control. Worn motor brushes.