I would really appreciate having other people contributing to this guide to help other from the community. If you have anything what you think could be valuable for others dont hesitate to contact me. The same holds if you discover some valuable discussion in Minolta group archives. I will be happy to add your contributions! P. H.

Chapter 2

Information on bodies and lenses

2.1 Minolta AF bodies

2.1.1 Overview of Minolta AF bodies
[Author(s): Unknown, taken from Minolta AF FAQ [4].]
Table 2.1: Minolta AF Bodies in Chronological Release Date Order Released Europe Dynax 7000 AF 9000 AF 5000 AF 3000i 7000i 5000i 8000i U.S. Maxxum 7000 AF 9000 AF 5000 AF 3000i 7000i 5000i 8000i SPxi 3xi 7xi 2xi 5xi 9xi 700si 400si 500si 600si (Classic) 800si HTsi XTsi 9 QTsi NYA Canada Maxxum Japan Alpha ( ) 7000 Alpha 9000 Alpha 5000 Alpha Alpha 7700i Alpha 5700i Alpha 8700i
1991 3xi 1991 7xi 1992 2xi 1992 5xi 1992 9xi 1993 700si 1994 500si 1995 300si 1995 500si Super 1995 600si (Classic) 1997 800si 1998 505si 1998 505si Super 1999 303si 1999 404si continued on next page.
807si Alpha Sweet 9 STsi 7 5

2.1. MINOLTA AF BODIES

. continued from previous page Released Europe U.S. Dynax Maxxum 3L 3L

Canada Maxxum

Japan Alpha ( )
2.1.2 Batteries for Minolta equipment
Table 2.2: Batteries for Minolta equipment Body or Meter Dynax/Maxxum AF Bodies All except below & XTsi Dynax 5, 505si, XTsi Dynax 7 and 9 body VC-700 and VC-800 grips VC-7 and VC-9 grips Original AF Bodies & 5000 with original battery holder 7000 & 5000 with optional BH-70L MF SLRs XM, XE-1, XE-5, XD-7, XD-5, XG-1, XG-2, XG-9, XGM, X-9 X-300, x-300s, X320s, X-500, X-700 SRT-101, 100, 202, 303, 100x, 101b, 303b, SR7, SR1 Meter Vectis APS Bodies S-1, S-300, 30, 25, 200, 20, 10, UC, Weathermatic, GX variants Himatic Compacts and Earlier Rangender Bodies Minolta AL-F, AL-E, Himatic 7, 7s, 9 and 11 Himatic 7S-II, 5, G, G2, C Himatic E, F Himatic S, S2, GF, AF, AF2, AF2M Minolta CLE (Leica M lensmount) AF and Focus-free Compacts (modern) 140EX, 135EX, 105EX, Panorama Zoom 28 90EX, 70C, Weathermatic DL 115EX, 75W, 70W, 70EX, RZ 70, Pcio, Mini, Panorama 105i, 90C, Twin 28, AF Zoom 65, AF Zoom 90, AF Tele Super AF5, 100AF, AF35EX, AF35, AF35C, Riva 35 AF-101R, AF-20R, F-10/BF, C-10, Memory Maker FS-E, FS-EII, FS-35, AF-E AF-C AF-T AF-Z, AF-EII, AF-DL, AF Tele 60, AF-SP continued on next page. Batteries Used 1 2CRCRCR123A 4 AA or 1 x 2CRAA or (1 2CR5 and/or 1 CR123A)

2 CRx CRCR2

PX625 PX675 PX640 AA 10L14 or EPX-76 CR123A DL223A CR123A 2CR5 AA AA AA 10L14 AA or DL223A AAA or DL223A
AA AAA AA EPX-76 or 2 10L14
2.2. MINOLTA DYNAX/MAXXUM 600SI (507SI, 650SI)
1 AA 1 AA and 1 PXPXMN10LPX1.35 V mercury cell: PX1 or RM1
Notes: PX625 and other PX- type button batteries, as used in many older manual focus SLRs, contain mercury and slowly being outlawed around the world for obvious environmental reasons. A possible solution is the air cell, made by Wein in the USA. Ask for WeinCell MRB625 (to replace a PX625), MRB675 (PX675) or MRB400 (PX400). Some discontinued AF bodies use a separate internal button battery to provide memory backup for settings, etc. Although they last a long time, they do eventually need replacing. The individual requirements of these particualr bodies are not listed in the table above, but I would be glad to add them. Avoid the cheap types of button cells made for virtual pets or market-stall watches. They are not the same as those intended for photographic use: their output voltage varies underload and this will lead to incorrect meter readings.
2.2 Minolta Dynax/Maxxum 600si (507si, 650si)
2.2.1 Beyond the Owners Manual: Tips and Tricks
[Author(s): Peter Blaise Monahon, taken from [12].]
LCD Displays Check: On the Minolta 507si, 600si, and 650si camera, to check the valid functioning of every LCD Liquid Crystal Display element: 1. Set the Drive Mode Selector to Multiple Exposure, 2. Press and hold the ISO Film Speed Button while opening and closing the battery door. All displays appear in the Body and Viewnder Data Panels. 3. Open and close the battery door to return the displays to normal. Auto Exposure Lock: Only the AEL Auto Exposure Lock button will lock exposure when the Minolta 507si, 600si, and 650si camera is set for Center-Weighted Average Metering Mode or Spot Metering Mode. Pressing the AEL Auto Exposure Lock Button locks the exposure settings and switches the meter to Spot Metering Mode. The AEL Auto Exposure Lock control has no function in M Manual Exposure Mode. You have three options for locking and holding the desired exposure value on the Minolta 507si, 600si, and 650si camera: 1. Using M Manual Exposure Mode, once set, the camera auto functions will not override your Aperture and Shutter Speed selections.
. continued from previous page Body or Meter TC-1 Digital Cameras Dimge V RD-175 Exposure Meters Flashmeter V, Autometer IV F, Spotmeter F Flashmeter IV Autometer IIIF, III and II, Spotmeter M Colormeter II, Flashmeter II Flashmeter III Booster II Viewmeter 9

Batteries Used CR123A AA 2CR5
2. Using 14 Segment Honeycomb Metering Mode and an attached automatic lens in AF Auto Focus mode, you can lock the exposure reading in P Program Exposure Mode, A Aperture priority Exposure Mode, or in S Shutter Speed Priority Exposure Mode by pressing the Shutter Release Button part way down. 3. Center-Weighted Metering Mode and Spot Metering Mode readings can be locked using only a third method pressing the AEL Auto Exposure Lock Button, marked AEL to the right of the eyepiece. You can use the AEL Auto Exposure Lock Button to lock the exposure setting in any of the Minolta 507si, 600si, and 650si cameras three metering systems. AEL Auto Exposure Lock is especially useful in the automatic exposure modes, Program, A Aperture priority, or S Shutter priority, when you want to take a meter reading from one part of your chosen photographic subject scene and then focus on another part. You can do this by focusing, and possibly zooming in, on the detail you want to meter and then pressing and holding the AEL button. [AEL] appears in the Viewnder Data Panel. You must maintain pressure on the AEL button until you release the shutter to the picture. Then aim the focusing target at your subject and press the shutter release part way down to lock focus. You can then reframe and adjust the lens zoom if necessary to get the image you want. Then press the shutter release all the way down and make your exposure. By Minolta factory default, the AEL Auto Exposure Lock feature is effective only while you hold it down. To reset the AEL Auto Exposure Lock feature to toggle AEL on at rst press, off at second press hold ISO Button switch and tap AEL Auto Exposure Lock Button. Front and Rear Control Dial Rules: Generally, both front and rear control dials increase the numeric value being controlled when rotated to the right, and decrease the numeric value being controlled when rotated to the left. The Front and Rear dials Control Dials on the Minolta 507si, 600si, and 650si camera can be used interchangeably to set camera body Shutter speed and an attached automatic lens Aperture in all Exposure Modes and operations except M Manual Exposure Mode. In M Manual Exposure Mode, the Front Control Dial sets the camera body Shutter Speed and the Rear Control Dial sets an attached automatic lens Aperture. For guidance from the Metering system, rotate the Control Dials in the direction of the arrows in the Viewnder Data Panel to obtain a Shutter Speed and attached automatic lens Aperture to correspond with the camera Metering systems assessment of your chosen photographic subject. Viewnder Long Eye Relief: The viewnder image and all displays can be seen in their entirety from a distance of 0.9 inch (22.7 mm), appropriate for photographers wearing glasses. Setting Viewnder Diopter: You can easily set the diopter correction without a lens on the camera. Point it toward a bright light source and turn the small diopter adjustment dial (next to the eyepiece) until the brackets etched on the viewing screen appear sharpest. The dial sets correction factors between and diopters. High Shutter Speed Flash: The Minolta 5400HS accessory ash unit emits a short pre-ash in HSS High Speed Synchronization Mode, which res when the cameras Shutter Release Button is depressed half way. This allows the camera metering system to measure the subjects illumination at this instant and select a ash intensity and Shutter Speed for balanced illumination of the subject and the background. If, while in P Program or Aperture priority Exposure Mode, a Flash to Shutter synchronization speed faster than second is called for, the system automatically shifts into High Speed Synchronization Mode. High Speed Synchronization Mode Flash differs from conventional ash by ring a series of highfrequency pulses at 50 k Hz that resemble a constant light source. Even illumination across the lm frame is assured during the entire time the cameras shutter curtains are open to record the image.

2.3 Dynax/Maxxum Lens Chart
[Author(s): Minolta Corp.]
Used abbreviations: * Discontinued RS Restyled HS High Speed For detailed explanation see section 2.3.3 (page 14).
Table 2.3: Fixed focal length lenses Lens Elements / Groups 11/8 10/9 10/9 8/8 8/8 9/9 5/5 10/8 10/8 7/6 7/6 7/6 7/6 6/5 6/5 7/6 7/6 Angle Of View

1/7.14

integral

1/6.25

3.28 2.85

1/6.25 1/4

55 mm 72 mm
29/16 31/4 31/8 315/16 51/4 51/4 93/8 93/8 811/16

3.3 2.62

1/7.7 1/5.88

55 mm 55 mm

25/213/16 31/16
*85mm f/1.4 7/6 G [RS] *100mm f/2 7/6 100mm f/2.8 7/7 Soft *135mm f/2.8 5/7 135mm f/2.8 8/6 [T4.5] STF *200mm f/2.8 8/7 APO 200mm f/2.8 8/7 APO G [HS] *300mm f/2.8 11/9 APO 300mm f/2.8 11/9 APO G [HS] 300mm f/4 9/7 APO G continued on next page.

1/7.81

1/6.66

1.5 1.5

1/6.66 1/6.66

49 mm 49 mm

25/8 25/8

49 mm 55 mm

29/16 29/16

1/5.88 1/5.88

115/16 115/16 11/2 11/2 19/16 19/16 12/3 213/16 213/16

1/7.7 1/7.7 1/5

55 mm 49 mm 55 mm
25/8 115/16 29/16 111/16 29/3

1/6.5 1/6.5

1/7.7 1/7.7

72 mm 72 mm

31/6 31/6
16mm f/2.8 Fisheye *20mm f/2.8 20mm f/2.8 [RS] *24mm f/2.8 24mm f/2.8 [RS] 28mm f/2 28mm f/2.8 *35mm f/1.4 G 35mm f/1.4 G [RS] *35mm f/2 35mm f/2 [RS] *50mm f/1.4 50mm f/1.4 [RS] *50mm f/1.7 *50mm f/1.7 [RS] *50mm f/1.4 [RS] *85mm f/1.4

215/16

Min. Focus [ft].7

Max. Magnication 1/6.6

Filter (dia.)
Dimensions (dia. length) [in]

Weight [oz]

25/8 201/8 21/8 13/4 13/4
141/10 19/16 19/16 101/16 61/2 169/16 179/16 87/16 81/2 85/16 85/6 85/16 193/8 193/8 1615/16 151/2 127/8 253/4 177/8 177/8 871/2 871/2 493/4
Table 2.4: Zoom lenses Lens Elements / Groups Angle Of View Min. Focus [ft].98

27/8 31/8 27/8 31/8

2.6(.8)

1/8.3(1/4)

211/16 33/8 211/16 33/8

2.6(1.2) 1.3

1/9(1/4)

1/5.88

1/5.55
211/16 23/8 211/16 23/8 27/8 27/8 27/8 27/8 213/16 211/16 31/4 49/16 211/16 21/16 29/16 211/16 27/16 29/16

1/12.3

1735mm 15/12 f/3.5 G 2035mm 13/11 f/3.54.5 *2450mm 7/7 f/4 2450mm 7/7 f/4[RS] *2485mm 14/12 f/3.44.5 2485mm 14/12 f/3.44.5[RS] 24105mm 12/11 f/3.44.5[D] 2870mm 16/11 f/2.8 G *2880mm 7/7 f/45.6 MZ 2880mm 10/10 f/3.55.6 II 2880mm 8/7 f/3.55.6 (D) (S) *2885mm 13/10 f/3.54.5 *2885mm 13/10 f/3.54.5 [RS] *28105mm 13/10 f/3.54.5 MZ 28105mm 13/10 f/3.54.5[RS] continued on next page.

Table 2.9: G lenses (II) AF 200mm f/2.8 APO No No Yes Yes No Yes AF Macro 200mm f/4 APO Yes No Yes Yes No Yes AF 300mm f/2.8 APO No No Yes Yes No Yes AF 300mm f/4 APO Yes No Yes Yes No Yes AF 400mm f/4.5 APO Yes No Yes Yes No Yes AF 600mm f/4 APO No No Yes Yes No Yes
Circular Aperture Floating focus Internal Focus Anomalous Dispersion Glass Asperhic Elements Focus Hold Button
Table 2.10: G lenses (III) Lens Elements / Groups Angle Of View Min. Focus [ft] 1 2.30 4.9 8.2 8.2 9.9
23/8 51/4 51/16 93/8 39/16 811/16 41/4 103/4
35mm f/1.4 G 10/8 85mm f/1.4 G 7/6 (D) 200mm f/4 13/8 MACRO APO G 200mm f/2.8 8/7 APO G 300mm f/2.8 11/9 APO G 300mm f/4 9/7 APO G 400mm f/4.5 9/7 APO G continued on next page.

f/22 f/22

Dimensions (dia. length) [in] 29/31/16 213/16 31/8 72/3

169/16 193/4 403/16

177/8 871/2 493/4 67

2.3.2 D-Series

D-Series lenses include new distance-encoding device which enables improved calculation for ash exposure with Maxxum 5 and 7 cameras when used with 3600HS D and 5600HS D ashes. Table 2.11: D lenses Lens Elements / Groups 12/11 8/7 Angle Of View Min. Focus [ft] 1.6
Manual focus ring does not rotate during AF
2.3.3 RS = Re-Styled Lenses
Fixed Focal Length Lenses AF 20mm f/2.8 RS Rubber focusing grip. Circular aperture up to f/5.6. Revised Foot/Meter focus scale in all white paint. The new lens is optically the same as the original. AF 24mm f/2.8 RS Rubber focusing grip. ABS plastic focusing barrel. Circular aperture up to f/5.6. Revised Foot/Meter focus scale in all white paint. The new lens is optically the same as the original. AF 35mm f/1.4 RS AF lock/lens function button on lens. Rubber focusing grip. Circular aperture up to

31/5 213/16 213/16 37/8

213/16 413/16 4
24105mm f/3.54.5 (D) 2880mm f/3.55.6 (D) (S) 75300mm f/4.55.6 (D) (S) 100300mm f/4.55.6 APO (D) 85mm f/1.4 G (D) 100mm f/2.8 Macro (D)
Dimensions (dia. length) [in] 25/8 25/8 27/16 29/16
1735mm f/3.5G 2870mm f/2.8 G 80200mm f/2.8 APO G

600mm f/4 G

Dimensions (dia. length) [in] 65/8 1711/16 31/4 31/5 31/4 49/16 31/2 69/16

APO Tele Converter

The converters were redesigned with new gear and IC ROMs. External changes include TYPE II designation. It is OK to use old-style converters on new lenses. Using a new converter on an old, nonupgraded lens will cause slower focusing Warning: THE APO CONVERTERS CANNOT BE USED WITH THE 80-200MM APO LENSES. If mounted together, the front element of the converter will contact back element of the lens and damage both.
2.3.4 Maxxum Lens Glossary
Circular Aperture Defocused background highlights take the shape of the diaphragm in wide-aperture portrait shots. The 9-blade apertures found in some of the G-lenses is specially designed to provide a circular opening at widest apertures (small f-numbers). A circular aperture produces softer, more natural-looking backgrounds at wider apertures than a lens having a standard 5-, 6-, 7-, or 9-bladed aperture. Floating Optical Design Rather than moving all lens groups as a single unit, designated optical groups in some of the G-lenses move independently as the lens focuses. This oating movement provides an extremely at image at the lm plane thus assuring corner-to-corner sharpness. It also provides a high degree of control over sagittal are, and eliminates coma, an aberration that causes off-axis object points to appear as short comet-like images on lm. Reducing sagittal are and coma provides an extremely sharp, high-contrast image which more effectively separates the subject from its background at large apertures. Internal Focusing The AF 200mm, 300mm, and 600mm APOs internal focusing system moves lighter internal lens elements to focus the image instead of the larger front elements used in conventional systems. This along with a high-ratio lens drive provides quick, accurate focusing of fast moving subjects. In addition, a focus limiter permits selecting a focusing range for even faster response. Anomalous Dispersion (AD) Glass Different wavelengths of light come into focus at different planes. This effect is know as Chromatic aberration and can cause a rainbow halo around points of light and reduced sharpness. Standard achromatic telephotos are corrected to bring the red and blue components into focus at the lm plane. The Anomalous Dispersion (AD) glass, used G-Series APO telephotos and zooms as well as the 100-300mm APO and 100-400mm APO virtually eliminates the effects of lateral and longitudinal chromatic aberration, providing increased sharpness and extremely accurate color rendition. Aspheric Design Different than the smooth continuous arc of a normal lens element surface, the curvature of an aspherical lens element changes shape across its surface. This irregular surface helps to correct spherical aberration and coma, an aberration that causes off-axis object points to appear as short comet-like images on lm. It also reduces sagittal are. The inclusion of aspheric elements in a lens design enables designers to reduce the amount of elements in the design. This in turn reduces the amount of are producing surfaces, two per element, which increases the contrast and snap to the nal image. The reduction in elements also makes the lens smaller and lighter. Focus-Hold Button When pressed, it locks focus or can be used to select spot focus or continuous AF (with Custom Function Card or Customize Function Card xi). Distance Encoding Distance encoding with new and revised D lenses provides rened multi-segment metering for manual focus operation and depth-of-eld display on Navigation Display with the Maxxum 7 as well as ADI ash functions when the new 5600(D) and 3600(D) ashes. Integral Filters Because a front-mounted lter would be expensive and would cause excessive are, the 300mm and 600mm Apo lenses have a built-in lter holder. Six lters are provided: NORMAL (clear), Y52 (yellow), O56 (orange), R60 (red), 1B (skylight) and ND4X (2-stop neutral density). Achromatic Coating Minoltas Achromatic, multi-layer coating provides remarkably accurate color rendition and excellent contrast by virtually eliminating reections between lens elements.

Test using aparture priority mode. (I still dont know why this happened? Theoretically, using aparture priority mode and spot metering, the TTL system should get correct amount of light and calculate correct shutter time, isnt it?)
3.3 Alternative testing of vignetting
[Author(s): CyberSimian. Reviewed by: Petr Holub.]
This experiment was desribed for 24105/3.54.5 lens in [3] with Hoya lter attached. Try this experiment when there is no lm in the camera:
3.3. ALTERNATIVE TESTING OF VIGNETTING
F IGURE 3.2: Results of M42 adapter tests (2) 1. Set the zoom to the 35 mm focal length. 2. Set the exposure mode to M (manual), the shutter speed to bulb, and the aperture to the maximum (f4 at 35 mm focal length). As the maximum aperture varies with focal length on the 24105 zoom, remember to set the aperture AFTER setting the focal length. 3. Remove lens cap, lens hood, and lter. 4. Open the camera back and re the shutter, holding the shutter open (a cable release helps here). 5. Point the camera at a bright wall or the sky and look through the back of the camera with one eye, about 1218 inches from the lm gate. You will see the rectangular lm gate, the black bafing in the mirror box, and a bright circle (the rear element of the lens). 6. If you are holding the camera horizontally in the normal position and rotate the camera about a vertical axis, your line of sight through the lens appears to move horizontally towards one edge of the lm gate. However, we actually want to check for vignetting at the corners of the frame, so instead rotate the camera about an axis displaced somewhat from the vertical, such that your line of sight through the lens appears to move diagonally from the centre of the lm gate towards a corner of the lm gate. It does not matter which corner, but I will assume the lower left corner in the following. 7. As you rotate the camera, you will see in the bright circle an area of darkness emerge from the upper right. As you rotate the camera more, the area of darkness will move towards the lower left, and you will be able to see that the area of darkness is an out-of-focus image of the interior bafing in the lens. Continue rotating the camera until the area of darkness reaches the lower left corner of the lm gate. What you have just seen is the normal behaviour of the lens, and is the reference that we will use to compare the effect of the lens hood and lters. 8. Attach the lens hood and repeat step (7). What you see will be identical to step (7), i.e. the lens hood does not obstruct the light falling on the lm plane. This is what you would expect if the lens hood is correctly designed.

3.7.3 Building your own Remote Cord (v. 3)
[Author(s): Dario Piantanida, taken from Minolta AF FAQ [4].]
(Using an audio cable for the internal connection of CD-ROM drives.) First cut che cd-rom connctor on the cd-rom side, to have a 20-30cm wire for the RC: on this side youll mount the button or the switch (or both). On the audio card side youll nd a 4 pin plastic connector made like this: r - w s
where r=red, -=none, w=white, s=shield (colours dont matter, but its just to number the pins). Youll work to obtain: 3 r - w With a very little scewdriver push a little thin strip that holds the metal shield contact in the plastic connector: this way the metal contact should slip off the connector. Now you can cut the shield wire where it joins red and white ones. Your next step is to le down the plastic connector to make it t the camera hole. First of all you can cut away the old shield contact with a sharp knife (I dont know the English for the knife I mean), then use a le or sandpaper to reduce the size of the connector; I started with a grindstone, but be VERY careful: if you exaggerate youll have to start over with a new connector. Here there is little to say: le a bit and try whether it ts; then le another bit. Youll have to le a lot on the long side that holds the thin strips of the metal contacts. Youll also pay attention to a little notch in the camera hole: try to le the connector to t it. Once you have the connector, I suggest you to strengthen the wires (red and white) that come from it: I used a glue gun (I hope the English is correct here) to create a shell for the wires. Nothing more. This RC works properly on my 700si, even as a bulb switch.

Chapter 4

Flash photography

4.1 FlashAmbient Control

[Author(s): Phil Brandon. Reviewed by: Petr Holub.]
This section is copy of one found on the web [16] (hopefuly I dont violate any copyright by including it in this guide). Its written by Phil Brandon from Minolta USA about 700si and paritally 800si but it seems to work for my 600si as well so its probably general a bit. On the bottom of the web page [16] there are some other notes probably about 800si. It would be really nice if somebody who speaks both Thai and English translates those in English. Whether using its built-in ash or an attached accessory ash, the Expert Flash system of the 700si is designed to recognize basic lighting conditions and adjust ambient light settings and ash duration to achieve the best results automatically. The table 4.1 on page 26 indicates adjustments made for all situations

4.1.1 P Mode Flash

When the ash is up or any dedicated accessory ash is attached to the 700sis hot shoe, either directly or through accessory connectors, it will re automatically in P mode whenever necessary. The shutter speeds between 1/200 and 1/60 second and apertures within the working range of the lens will be set automatically depending on the ambient light level. The cameras TTL ash metering system monitors the amount of light which reaches the lm plane and automatically stops the ash output when it detects that sufcient exposure has been received. In backlight conditions requiring ash or when the forced-ash button is pressed, the ambient light exposure of the subject will be reduced by approximately one stop and the ash brightness will be reduced from 1/4 to 3/4 stop to maintain proper subject exposure. The background will be up to 1-1/2 stops brighter than the subject exposure. When the SPOT button is pressed for slow-sync ash photography, ash brightness is reduced by 3/4 stop and shutter is set to a speed slow enough to allow normal background exposure. The ash will not re if the 700si is set for either PA or PS modes. Press the MODE button to resume normal P Mode ash operation. Changing Program Flash Control with the Custom xi card Normally the 700sis exposure computer will decide when to use ash even if the built-in ash is popped up or an accessory ash is attached and turned on. If you would like the ash to re everytime the ash is lifted, use the Custom xi card to switch the Program ash control to manual switchover. The table 4.2 shows the function number and setting to make.

4.1.3 S Mode Flash

In this mode, any shutter speed between 1/200 sec. and 30 seconds can be selected by the photographer. The 700si Expert Exposure system then automatically selects the appropriate aperture from within the lens working range. Basically, the system is designed to reduce ambient light exposure of the subject by one stop (by closing the aperture) and, if possible, maintain it at this level for backlight, and frontlight ll-in. In these conditions, the ash brightness is reduced from 1/4 to 3/4 stop to produce a pleasing subject exposure. The background will be up to 1-1/2 stops brighter than the subject exposure. Shutter-priority ash is best used when the ambient front or backlight is equal to or greater than the subject brightness. If used in normal indoor ash photography where the background is dark, the aperture will remain wide open until the ambient light level approaches a normal ambient light, exposure. This provides the least amount of depth of eld for the picture. If the indoor brightness is high enough or the shutter speed selected is low enough to produce an ambient exposure without ash, the metering system treats the situation like a front- or back-light ll-in situation by reducing both ambient and ash exposure as described above. When the SPOT button is pressed, ash brightness is reduced by 3/4 stop and the if the ambient light is bright enough to require an aperture smaller than the maxxum for the lens in use, the lens aperture will be opened toward achieving better background exposure. Once again, S mode is not recommended for this procedure.

4.1.4 M Mode Flash

In this mode, both aperture and shutter speed (within maximum x-sync) are set by the photographer. The ash output is determined by the 700sis metering system and regulated by its TTL ash control system. The photographer can manually adjust the ambient exposure by the shutter speed and aperture selected and control automatic ash brightness by using the cameras ash exposure override feature. The 5200i, 5400xi, and 5400HS ash units can also be switched to manual operation and the level adjusted for special applications.

4.1.5 Fill Flash

4.2 Short summary on using ll-in ash
Based on my experiences and experiences of other people [3] here is a short summary on how to get gentle ll in ash: M mode (called Brainer mode by Gary Walts in [15])
Meter your subject and set aperture and shutter speed for proper exposure with ash turned off. You can also use results of measurement in P mode again with ash turned off and set those vaules in M mode.
Dial-in the desired ash compensation e.g. dial-in even no ash compensation at all.
ash compensation or you can set
4.3. SHORT SUMMARY ON USING WIRELESS FLASH
P and A mode (called No-Brainer mode by Gary Walts in [15]). Just press the force ash button on camera body. The result will habe about one stop underexposed background/ambient light so its not what you usually want as daylight-balanced ll-in ash. But its great for backlight.
In P and A mode you can use SLOW SYNC method. SLOW SYNC is designed to make your shutter speed long enough to get proper exposure of ambient light 1. According to Phil Brandons notes on ash programing (Table 4.1 on page 26 and 4.1.6 on page 28) the ambient light in this mode should be exposed without any compensation (in my experiences it is sometimes up to EV underexposed) the same situation you probably want with daylight ll-in ash. In my experiences it worked O. K. except for the high-speed sync (HSS mode) when it has usually no effect on shutter speed 2. When you want especially subtle ll-in you can dial 1 or even 2 EV ash compensation. P and A mode You need to compensate (ambient) exposure decrease invoked automatically by the camera in those modes when ash is turned on. Amount of compensation varies on ambient light level but usualy you need to set about 1 EV. Unless you have Maxxum/Dynax 7 with ash compensation detached from ambient compensation bear in mind that ash output increases by the same amount as the ambient compensation set. Now you need to compensate ash for both the automatic increase due to ambient exposure compensation and the ash compensation that you want to dial in. In case of 1 ambient compensation you need to dial 1 ash compensation to get original ash power. Than you can go further with your intended ash compensation if you want to have ash power increased by you need to dial-in total ash compensation. Disadvantage of this approach is in the fact that overall exposure compensation that camera sets after turning on the ash may be exactely one stop (if camera decides its frontlight situation) but it may be even more so you never know what compensation exactely should be set unless you do the measurement with ash turned off.

Most precise ll-in ash can be obtained using M (Brainer mode) mode described above but its the most time consuming. For faster work SLOW-SYNC would be probably the choice. Notes: When ash is the main (only) source of light you can achieve following results with compentsation (C) and ash compensation (FC)

C C C C

0; FC 0; FC 0; FC
0 properly exposed picture 1 one stop underexposed picture
1 one stop overexposed picture 1 properly exposed picture (no effect)
(this is based on tests with Dynax 600si/3600HS(D)/Kodak Ektoachrome E200 slide lm).
4.3 Short summary on using wireless ash
[Author(s): Gary Friedman. Reviewed by: Petr Holub.]
Well, embedded within these comments lie two other misconceptions about Minoltas wireless ash which will be debunked in the forthcoming article. However, Ill outline them briey here:
1 Intent behind described in Minolta manuals is night photography with some foreground object e. g. person lit by ash; both foreground and background should be properly exposed 2 This behavior can be expected because of primary raison d tre of SLOW SYNC mode, i.e. low-light photography, when you e wouldnt have your ash in HSS mode.
As misleading as Minoltas documentation is, you do NOT need to buy the wireless IR ash controller in order to control more than one off-camera ash! Your built-in ash can do this unaided. Just put all of your off-camera ashes on automatic and aim them at the subject, and during exposure the cameras built-in ash will send the All Off command whenever it detects that enough light has hit the lm regardless of which ash (or combination of ashes) produced the light.
Armed with this knowledge you can also set up 1:3, 1:6, or 1:Anything ash ratios just by changing the ash-to-subject distances, and the camera will send the all off signal when the light is sufcient (usually this will be the light from the closest ash - the ash that is further away will be turned off before it has a chance to put out enough light hence the ratio.) This technique also means you can achieve automatic ash ratios using HSS off-camera; youre not tied to Minoltas built-in 1/60 th of a second (1/30th of a second on the Maxxum 9) ash synch limitation. When used as a controller, the built-in ash puts out a negligible amount of light as compared to what is required for a proper exposure. That is why you cant see any evidence of the on-camera ash being present in any of the examples. To prove this to yourself, take a ash meter (in cumulative mode) and measure the total amount of light coming out of the built-in ash, both when in wireless controller mode and in normal mode, and compare the results.
Since the Wireless IR ash controller will also PREVENT you from using off-camera high-speed synch on the Dynax 7, there is no really good reason to buy one. I have found it to be very useful in only one situation which is not very common: When using Minolta wireless ashes in manual mode (say, in a studio situation), and you want to use a ashmeter to measure the light hitting the subject, the in-band signals used to control the off-camera ashes will interfere with the handheld ashmeters reading. Since most ashmeters employ IR lters near the sensor, using the wireless IR ash controller will completely eliminate this problem. I have found the 5600HS ashes to be excellent wireless studio ashes, by the way. Check out some samples at my other website, http://www.NotYourOrdinary.com. Great examples of using wireless ash can be found on Garys web site [18]. Similar experiences of other people can be found here: [3, 15] and quite thorough guide by Gary Walts [15].

may see, the camera was badly tricked by the uorescent lighting in the room and the picture 24-85 Preash 5600 Vertical is severely underexposed, though the ash still provided some weak light. :-((. If we accept the sample picture, 28-80D ADI 5600 as perfectly exposed one, then the 4segment metering comes the best after it with about 1/2 overexposure regardless the lens ash combination used. With the pre-ash metering results are practically unpredictable if a non- D lens is used - in some cases it gives heavy overexposure (like in 2485 Preash 5X00 les) or shows bad underexposure (see the previous comment). With the D-lens even non-D 5400 showed similar results to 4 segment metering.in the pre-ash mode. In the wireless mode results should be interpreted the following way: the rst ash in the name stands to the left of the camera while the second one stands to its right. Numbers in parenthesis indicate the ratio power for each ash. ctrl means Control, slv means slave for the pictures where one of the ashguns was used as a control for another. For getting this work I made a trick with the OS1100 lling in the whole on the shoe. But as long as the ashes were relatively close to the subject (I think less than 1 meter) the results in this mode are contradictory to what it should be in reality the control ash, even set to (1) ratio power overexposes its side of the picture, though it should be way around. Another note: when the 5600 acts as a controller the camera does not give an OK signal, though the pictures were apparently exposed properly. With the 5400 set to the controller everything works as it should and the camera gives OK signals. I think that this is understandable, as long as the manual for the 5600 warns against using the 5600 as a controller if a non-D ash is used as a remote because the latter wont re. Well, in my tests the 5400 red all right, though without OK signal after the shot.
The built-in ash works in fact as a real wireless controller, so it is possible to use 1:2 ratio between two remote units. Though the it works the best with the 5600 set to (2) and 5400 set to (1). With reversed setting the effect of the ratio is much less prominent, but this way it is possible to play with lighting in a more exible way, IMHO. When both ashes are set to the equal power (i.e. without any ratio, just plain wireless mode) they provide equal illumination.

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Thanks for posting the results of your flash test, Marat. My conclusion is that, contrary to what has been stated earlier and often on this e-group, Minolta flash results are very unpredictable unless using a D lens.

Camera bodies

Dynax/Maxxum 600si [10] Minolta 600si Board FAQ, http://w3.one.net/georgek/minolta/MPG/600SI/ [11] Minolta Dynax 600si Brochure, http://www.geocities.com/minolta600sibrochure/minolta600si-brochure-01.html [12] Peter Blaise Monahon, Minolta Alpha 507si and Dynax Maxxum 600si 650si Classic and Panorama Date Photography, http://www.geocities.com/minolta507si600si650si/index.html

BIBLIOGRAPHY

[13] Photodo Minolta lens tests, http://www.photodo.com/prod/lens/minolta.shtml\#Minolta [14] Minolta 35mm F2.8 SHIFT CA Lens, http://members.aol.com/cldphoto/shift_ca.html
[15] Walts, G. Minolta Photographs by Gary Walts Minolta Photographer, http://home.imcnet.net/waltsman/flash.html [16] Brandon, P. Flash Exposure by Phil Brandon from Minolta USA, http://www.geocities.com/minoltacamera/tip/0004.html [17] Greely, J. Tech notes from Glamourcons, http://www.munitions.com/jgreely/ [18] Friedman, G. Friedman Archives Wireless Flash Examples, http://FriedmanArchives.com/flash.htm
Interesting books on photography
[19] Burian P. K., Caputo R. National Geographic photography eld guide: secrets to making great pictures, National Geography Society (U.S.), 1999, ISBN 0-7922-7498-9 (reg.) or 0-7922-7496-2 (dlx.)