OPERATION The 300 TDi is a 4 cylinder, water cooled, turbocharged diesel engine with a capacity of 2.5 litres. The cast iron cylinder block is integral with the crankcase and incorporates direct bored cylinders. The crankshaft is carried in 5 main bearings, end-float being controlled by thrust washers which are positioned on both sides of the centre main bearing. The flywheel/drive plate housing is an aluminium alloy casting secured to the rear of the cylinder block, it also forms the mounting for the starter motor. A plugged aperture in the housing allows access for the insertion of the timing pin. The aluminium alloy cylinder head carries a conventional rocker shaft and rockers, operating 2 valves per cylinder via camshaft followers and push rods from a single camshaft, supported in the cylinder block by 4 bearings and driven by a gear and toothed belt from the crankshaft. A lobe formed between the 2 inner bearing journals provides drive for the fuel lift pump and another lobe, between the 2 drive end journals provides drive for the brake servo pump. Camshaft end-float is controlled by a thrust plate bolted to the cylinder block. Graphite coated, aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with 2 compression and an oil control ring and are secured to the connecting rods by semi-floating gudgeon pins which are an interference fit in the small end bush. A swirl chamber is incorporated in the piston crown to facilitate combustion. The timing case consists of cast aluminium alloy front and rear covers which house the oil pump, crankshaft and camshaft front oil seals and which also carry the fuel injection pump and drive belt idler pulley. Housed within the timing case housing is the crankshaft gear which provides drive for the camshaft and fuel injection pump gears via a rubber toothed belt.
Lubrication The engine lubrication system is of the wet sump type, oil pressure being provided by the rotor type oil pump (1) driven directly by the crankshaft. Oil is drawn from the sump (2) through the strainer (3), suction pipe (4) and passes through internal drillings in the cylinder block to an external, full flow filter (5). Further drillings feed oil to the cylinder block main oil gallery (6) which, in turn, supplies the crankshaft main bearings (7). Cross drillings in the crankshaft carry oil to the connecting rod big-end bearings (8). The camshaft bearings (9) are supplied with oil from the main oil gallery. An internal oilway from the camshaft front bearing connects the cylinder block to the cylinder head and feeds oil to the rocker shaft assembly (10), lubricating the valves and springs. The pistons, gudgeon pins and small end bushes are lubricated and cooled by oil jets (11) which are supplied from the main oil gallery via relief valves which allow the oil to flow at a pre-determined pressure. Oil pressure is controlled by a pressure relief valve (12) incorporated in the timing case housing together with the oil pump. The valve allows excess oil to be recirculated back into the oil feed gallery. The rotor type oil pump is driven by 2 flats machined on the front of the crankshaft. Oil cooling is maintained by an oil cooler which is integral with the radiator and linked to adaptors on the oil filter head by pre-formed feed and return hoses. A thermostatic valve in the filter head allows oil to flow to the cooler when it reaches a pre-determined temperature.

Crankcase ventilation system A breather cyclone unit (1), fitted to the right hand side of the rocker cover controls the rate at which air is purged from the sump, via a hose (2) from the camshaft side cover to the rocker cover and extracts
oil from the gaseous atmosphere. The oil then drains back to the sump through a hose and flanged pipe connection (3). The residues are drained-off from the top of the cyclone breather and pass through a hose (4) into the engine via the turbocharger where they are burned in the combustion chamber.
TIMING BELT, TENSIONER AND GEARS

Timing belt - remove

4. Position tool LRT-12-049 and thrust button, part of tool LRT-12-031 to crankshaft pulley, remove pulley, recover Woodruff key.
1. Position tool LRT-12-080 to crankshaft pulley, retain with 4 bolts. 2. Restrain crankshaft using tool LRT-12-080 and remove crankshaft pulley flange head bolt. NOTE: Bolt and washer fitted to early engines. 3. Remove tool LRT-12-080.
5. Using sequence shown, progressively slacken then remove 14 bolts securing timing belt front cover.

OVERHAUL

Automatic gearbox
12. Rotate crankshaft clockwise using crankshaft pulley bolt until tool LRT-12-044 can be inserted through hole in engine plate and into slot in drive plate. 6. Remove timing belt front cover. 7. Remove and discard gasket. 8. Remove and discard crankshaft front oil seal from timing belt front cover. 9. Temporarily fit crankshaft pulley bolt to crankshaft. CAUTION: Do not rotate crankshaft anti-clockwise and do not use camshaft or fuel injection pump gear bolts to rotate crankshaft.

Manual gearbox

10. Remove plug from bottom of flywheel housing. 11. Rotate crankshaft clockwise using crankshaft pulley bolt until tool LRT-12-044 can be located in slot in flywheel. CAUTION: Do not rotate crankshaft anti-clockwise and do not use camshaft or fuel injection pump gear bolts to rotate crankshaft.

All engines

13. Check that timing mark on camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on timing belt rear cover and the crankshaft Woodruff key is aligned with the arrow cast on the rear cover. 14. Remove crankshaft pulley bolt. 15. Insert timing pin LRT-12-045 into fuel injection pump gear hub plate and injection pump hub.
18. Slacken but do not remove bolt securing timing belt tensioner pulley, move pulley until tension is removed from belt. 19. Remove nut and washer securing idler pulley. 20. Release idler pulley from timing belt, remove pulley. 21. Release timing belt from gears, discard belt.

19. Fit a dry, new gasket to timing belt rear cover. 20. Position timing belt front cover to rear cover. 21. Fit bolts of the correct length in positions shown.
22. Tighten bolts in sequence shown to 25 Nm. 23. Lightly oil crankshaft spigot, fit Woodruff key and crankshaft pulley.
24. Position tool LRT-12-080 to crankshaft pulley, retain tool using 4 bolts. 25. Fit crankshaft pulley flange head bolt. 26. Restrain crankshaft and tighten bolt to 80 Nm,then further 90. 27. Remove tool LRT-12-080.

ROCKER SHAFT Remove

5. Remove 3 flange nuts securing rocker cover, recover sealing washers. 6. Remove rocker cover, remove and discard gasket.
1. Disconnect breather hoses from crankcase breather cyclone unit. 2. Remove bolt securing cyclone unit to rocker cover. 3. Remove cyclone unit, remove and discard O ring. 4. Disconnect breather hoses from cylinder block and rocker cover.
7. Slacken locknut on each tappet adjusting screw, slacken adjusting screws until they are clear of push rods. 8. Working from the centre outwards, progressively slacken then remove 3 nuts and 2 bolts securing rocker shaft pedestals to cylinder head. CAUTION: Insert a slave bolt into pedestals 1 and 5 to prevent components sliding off shaft. 9. Remove rocker shaft assembly.
Rocker shaft - dismantling 1. Suitably identify each component to its fitted position.
10. Withdraw push rods. 11. Remove valve caps. CAUTION: Keep push rods and valve caps in their fitted order.
2. Remove locknut and tappet adjusting screw from each rocker. 3. Remove slave bolt and pedestal from end of rocker shaft. 4. Remove washer, rocker arm and spacer followed by second rocker arm, spacer and pedestal. 5. Repeat above procedures until all components are removed.
Inspecting components 1. Measure and record diameter of rocker shaft at one of the pedestal locations. 2. Measure and record diameter of rocker shaft at each of the rocker arm locations. 3. Compare measurements obtained and calculate difference between diameters. If wear at any rocker shaft location exceeds 0.025 mm, a new rocker shaft must be fitted. 4. Check rocker arm pads for signs of wear, replace rocker arms as necessary. 5. Check threads and ball ends of each tappet adjusting screw for wear. Pay particular attention to ball ends, replace any showing signs of flattening on the ball or damage to threads. 6. Check that each nut runs freely on adjusting screw threads. 7. Check each push rod for signs of wear and for straightness, replace as necessary. 8. Check valve caps for signs of wear, replace as necessary. 9. Check rocker arm bushes for scoring and wear. 10. Assemble each rocker arm to its fitted location on rocker shaft and check clearance of bush to shaft does not exceed 0.12 mm. 11. If clearance exceeds figure given, bushes must be replaced.
Rocker arm bushes - replace
1. Support rocker arm on bed of hand press. 2. Using a suitable piloted mandrel, press bush out of rocker arm. 3. Lubricate replacement bush with engine oil and press into rocker arm ensuring that lubrication holes in bush and arm are aligned.

4. Check that lubrication holes in each rocker arm are clear. 5. Check that lubrication holes in rocker shaft are clear. 6. Check spacers and washers for wear, replace as necessary.
Rocker shaft - assembling 1. Lubricate all components with engine oil. 2. Assemble rocker arms, spacers, washers and pedestals to rocker shaft ensuring that they are in their original fitted positions. 3. Retain pedestals 1 and 5 with slave bolts.
Rocker shaft - refit 1. Lubricate push rods with engine oil and fit to their original positions. Ensure that ball end of each push rod is correctly located in each cam follower slide. 2. Screw each tappet adjusting screw into its respective rocker arm until ball end is flush with underside of arm; fit but do not tighten locknuts. 3. Lubricate valve pads with engine oil and fit to their original positions. 4. Position rocker shaft to cylinder head, fit but do not tighten 3 nuts. 5. Remove slave bolts from pedestals 1 and 5, fit but do not tighten 2 bolts. 6. Locate each push rod in turn beneath its respective tappet adjusting screw and tighten each screw until ball end locates in recess in push rod. 7. Working from the centre outwards, progressively tighten 3 nuts and 2 bolts to 5 Nm.
8. Make a suitable pointer from welding rod and position it to number 1 pedestal stud. 9. Temporarily fit a nut to secure pointer to stud. 10. Assemble degree plate LRT-12-007 to a suitable torque wrench or extension bar. 11. Tighten the centre pedestal nut a further 50. 12. Tighten 2 pedestal bolts and number 5 pedestal nut a further 50. 13. Remove pointer and secure it to number 5 pedestal stud. 14. Tighten number 1 pedestal nut a further 50. 15. Remove pointer. 16. Adjust valve clearances. 17. Thoroughly clean mating faces of rocker cover and cylinder head, remove all traces of gasket material using gasket removal spray and a plastic scraper.
18. Check sealing washers for damage or distortion, replace as necessary. 19. Position a new gasket - dry to rocker cover. 20. Position rocker cover to cylinder head, fit 3 flange nuts and working from centre outwards, tighten to 10 Nm.

Valves and springs - remove 1. Support cylinder head clear of valves, use a hollow drift and tap each valve spring cap to free collets. 2. Position cylinder head on its side.
14. Remove 2 bolts securing engine front lifting bracket, remove bracket.
3. Using tool LRT-12-034 compress valve spring. 4. Remove 2 collets from valve stem. 5. Remove tool LRT-12-034.
Cylinder head - inspection 1. Decarbonise cylinder head. 2. Examine cylinder head for cracks, pay particular attention to area between inlet and exhaust valve seats. Cracks indicate engine has overheated and cylinder head must be replaced. 3. Check core plugs for signs of corrosion and leakage, replace as necessary.
6. Remove spring cup, valve spring and spring seat. Keep components in their fitted order. 7. Remove and discard valve stem oil seal. 8. Remove valve, and retain in fitted order. 9. Repeat above procedures for remaining valves.
4. Check cylinder head for warping using a straight edge and feeler gauges. Maximum warping = 0.08 mm CAUTION: Cylinder head must not be refaced, if warping exceeds figure given, head must be replaced. 5. Check valve seat inserts for burning, pitting or damage, replace inserts if pitting cannot be removed by valve lapping-in or refacing.
Valve springs - inspection
Valves and guides - inspection 1. Remove carbon from valves. 2. Examine head of each valve for cracks and burning and valve seat for pitting or burning, replace valves as necessary. 3. Check valve seating faces for pitting, if light pitting cannot be removed during valve grinding operations, valves may be refaced. CAUTION: If refacing results in valve head stand down being exceeded, valves must be replaced.
1. Check free length of each spring = 46.28 mm 2. Check that end coils of each spring are square to body of spring.
4. Check valve seating face angles. Inlet = to - included angle =120 Exhaust = to - included angle = 90 5. Reface or replace valves as necessary. 6. Check each valve stem for wear, measure at each end and centre of valve stem. Inlet = 7.96 mm Exhaust = 7.94 mm 7. Replace any valve with stems that are worn.

Valve guides - renew

8. Insert a new valve into each guide in turn and with head of valve positioned 8.0 mm above seat insert, measure side to side movement of valve head using a suitable DTI. Maximum valve head movement = 0.15 mm 9. Replace any valve guide which permits valve head movement in excess of the above figure. 1. Support cylinder head, combustion face upwards on blocks of wood. 2. Using tool LRT-12-036, drift valve guide out of cylinder head, discard guide. 3. Clean valve guide bore. 4. Heat cylinder head uniformily to 120 C. WARNING: Take care when handling heated cylinder head.

Oil pump and oil pressure relief valve - refit Oil pump 1. Thoroughly clean timing belt rear cover, remove all traces of gasket using suitable gasket removal spray and a plastic scraper. Remove all traces of sealant using solvent from kit GUG 705548GM. 2. Ensure oil pump cover screw holes are clean and dry. 3. Clean oil pump rotors and recess, lubricate rotors and recess with engine oil. CAUTION: Ensure alignment marks made during dismantling are not erased. 4. Position inner and outer rotors in housing ensuring that reference marks are aligned. 5. Apply bead of sealant from kit to outer edge of oil pump cover, fit cover to housing ensuring that reference marks are aligned. 6. Fit oil pump cover, fit and progressively tighten 7 screws. 7. Check that pump rotates freely. Oil pressure relief valve 1. Thoroughly clean oil pressure relief valve plunger, spring and relief valve bore then lubricate components with engine oil. 2. Insert plunger and spring into bore. 3. Smear threads of relief valve plug with Loctite 577. 4. Fit plug and tighten to 17 Nm.
Timing belt rear cover - refit 1. Remove all traces of gasket material from cylinder block using suitable gasket removal spray and a plastic scraper.
2. Screw 2 slave guide studs into cylinder block. 3. Fit new gasket over guide studs.
4. Note position of oil pump drive flats on crankshaft. 5. Rotate oil pump inner rotor to align with drive flats on crankshaft and position timing belt rear cover on guide studs. 6. Fit timing belt rear cover. CAUTION: Do not remove guide studs at this stage. 7. Fit 8 bolts of the correct length in positions shown, remove guide studs and fit remaining 2 bolts.
8. Using sequence shown, tighten bolts to 25 Nm. 9. Fit oil pick-up pipe and sump. 10. Lubricate a new crankshaft front oil seal with engine oil.
13. Fit oil seal using tool LRT-12-082. 14. Fit fuel injection pump. 15. Fit timing belt, tensioner and gears.
11. Fit oil seal using tool LRT-12-079. 12. Lubricate a new camshaft oil seal with engine oil.

OIL FILTER HEAD Remove

Thermostatic valve - remove
1. Remove and discard oil filter element. 2. Remove 4 bolts securing filter head to cylinder block. 3. Remove filter head, remove and discard gasket.
1. Secure oil filter head in a soft-jawed vice with thermostatic valve vertically upwards. 2. Remove 2 bolts securing thermostatic valve extension housing to oil filter head. 3. Remove extension housing, remove and discard O ring. 4. Withdraw thermostatic valve and spring. CAUTION: Do not separate valve from spring.
Inspecting components 1. Check thermostatic valve spring for distortion and corrosion. CAUTION: Do not separate valve from spring.
Thermostatic valve - refit 1. Secure oil filter head in a soft-jawed vice with thermostatic valve bore vertically upwards.

1. Screw 2 slave 8 mm bolts into flywheel.
4. Fit 22 sump bolts and tighten in sequence shown to 25 Nm. 5. Check that sump drain plug is tightened to 35 Nm.
2. Temporarily fit crankshaft pulley. 3. Position tool LRT-12-080 to crankshaft pulley, secure with 4 bolts.
4. Restrain crankshaft pulley using tool LRT-12-080 and remove 8 bolts securing flywheel; discard locking plate - if fitted. 5. Using assistance, remove flywheel using 2 slave bolts. NOTE: Dowel located.
Inspecting components 1. Check clutch face of flywheel for scoring or signs of overheating ( blueing ), if deep scoring or signs of overheating exist, flywheel must be replaced. 2. Check teeth of starter ring gear for chipping and wear, replace ring gear as necessary.
Starter ring gear - replace
1. Drill a 3 mm diameter hole to the depth of the ring gear at the root of 2 teeth. CAUTION: Ensure drill does not contact flywheel. 2. Using a cold chisel, split ring gear. WARNING: Wear suitable eye protection and cover flywheel with cloth to protect against flying fragments. 3. Remove ring gear from flywheel. 4. Heat replacement ring gear uniformly to 250 C.
Flywheel - refit 1. Ensure bolt holes in crankshaft are clean and dry. 2. Ensure 2 slave 8 mm bolts are screwed fully into flywheel. 3. Using assistance, position flywheel on crankshaft. NOTE: Dowel located.
4. Fit and finger tighten 8 bolts. 5. Restrain crankshaft using tool LRT-12-080 and tighten flywheel bolts by diagonal selection to 146 Nm. 6. Remove tool LRT-12-080 and crankshaft pulley. 7. Remove slave bolts from flywheel.
5. Position ring gear to flywheel with square edge of teeth towards flywheel flange. 6. Press ring gear on to flywheel, allow to air cool.

DRIVE PLATE Remove

3. Restrain crankshaft using tool LRT-12-080 and remove 8 bolts securing drive plate, discard locking plate - if fitted. 4. Remove drive plate, recover spacer and shims. 1. Temporarily fit crankshaft pulley - if removed. 2. Position tool LRT-12-080 to crankshaft pulley, secure using 4 bolts. NOTE: Dowel located.

Main bearing caps and saddles - inspection 1. Ensure main bearing cap bolts and bolt holes are clean and dry.
1. Grind journals ensuring that grinding wheel travels beyond edge of journal A to avoid formation of a step B. CAUTION: Take care not to damage fillet radius C. 2. Final finishing should be carried out using a static lapping stone with crankshaft rotating in a CLOCKWISE direction when viewed from flywheel end of crankshaft. 3. On completion of grinding operations, thoroughly clean crankshaft ensuring that all oil passages are clear.
2. Fit each main bearing cap less bearing shells to its correct location ensuring that direction marks on cap are facing the correct way. 3. Fit and tighten each pair of main bearing cap bolts to 133 Nm. 4. Slacken the bolt on one side of each main bearing cap. 5. Using feeler gauges, check that there is no gap between each main bearing cap and saddle on the side of the cap with the slackened bolt. 6. If a gap exists, replace main bearing cap and re-check. 7. If gap still exists, cylinder block must be replaced. CAUTION: Do not attempt to machine main bearing caps or saddles. 8. Remove main bearing caps. CAUTION: Keep main bearing cap bolts with their respective caps.
8. If main bearing clearances are incorrect, use a combination of standard and oversize main bearing shells and re-check clearances. CAUTION: Keep main bearing shells selected in their fitted order. 9. Remove all traces of Plastigage using an oily rag. 10. Using assistance, remove crankshaft. 11. Remove upper main bearing shells and keep in their fitted order.
Main bearing clearance - checking CAUTION: If crankshaft has been reground, oversize main bearing shells must be fitted. 1. Degrease new main bearing shells and ensure all traces of oil are removed from crankshaft journals. 2. Fit new main bearing shells to saddles and main bearing caps ensuring that tags are located in recesses in saddles and bearing caps. NOTE: Number 5 main bearing shells are wider than numbers 1 to 4.
3. Using assistance, fit crankshaft. 4. Place a piece of Plastigage across width of each main journal. 5. Fit main bearing caps to their correct location ensuring that direction marks are facing the correct way; fit each pair of main bearing cap bolts and tighten to 133 Nm. CAUTION: Do not rotate crankshaft.
6. Remove main bearing caps and bearing shells. CAUTION: Retain main bearing shells and cap bolts with their respective main bearing caps. 7. Measure widest portion of Plastigage on each main bearing journal using the scale supplied; the graduation that corresponds to the widest portion of Plastigage indicates main bearing clearance. Main bearing clearance = 0.031 to 0.079 mm
Crankshaft end-float - checking 1. Lubricate upper main bearing shells and crankshaft main bearing journals with engine oil.
2. Lubricate new standard size thrust washers with engine oil and position washers in recess in centre main bearing saddle. NOTE: Grooved side of washers must face outwards.

3. Using assistance, fit crankshaft. 4. Attach a DTI to rear face of cylinder block with stylus contacting end of crankshaft; push crankshaft fully rearwards and zero gauge. 5. Push crankshaft fully forwards and measure end-float. 6. If end-float exceeds 0.05 to 0.15 mm, remove crankshaft, fit combinations of standard and oversize thrust washers to achieve correct end-float. CAUTION: Variations of thrust washer thicknesses on each side of crankshaft must not exceed 0.08 mm.
7. When end-float is correct, remove DTI. 8. Using assistance, remove crankshaft and thrust washers. Ensure that thrust washers are identified to their location.
13. If big-end bearing clearances are incorrect, use a combination of standard and oversize bearing shells and re-check clearance. CAUTION: Retain selected shells with their respective connecting rods and caps.
Big-end bearing clearance - checking 1. Fit pistons and connecting rods. 2. Degrease new big-end bearing shells. 3. Fit big-end bearing shells to connecting rods ensuring that tag is located in recess in connecting rod. 4. Fit big-end bearing shells to bearing caps ensuring that tag is located in recess in cap. 5. Temporarily fit crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate crankshaft to bring numbers 1 and 4 journals to BDC. 6. Remove all traces of oil from crankshaft journals. 7. Pull numbers 1 and 4 connecting rods on to crankshaft journals, remove plastic tubing from connecting rod bolts.
14. Remove all traces of Plastigage using an oily rag. 15. Repeat above procedures for numbers 2 and 3 big-end bearings.
8. Place a strip of Plastigage across width of numbers 1 and 4 big-end journals. 9. Fit bearing caps and shells to connecting rods ensuring that reference marks on caps and rods are aligned. 10. Fit big-end bearing cap nuts and tighten to 59 Nm. CAUTION: Do not rotate crankshaft.
11. Remove big-end bearing caps and shells. 12. Measure widest portion of Plastigage on crankshaft journals using the scale supplied; the graduation that corresponds to the widest portion of Plastigage indicates big-end bearing clearance. Big-end bearing clearance = 0.025 to 0.075 mm

4. Slide oil seal protector sleeve over crankshaft, fit oil seal and housing over guide studs and crankshaft, fit and finger tighten 3 bolts, recover oil seal protector sleeve. CAUTION: Do not lubricate oil seal or running surface on crankshaft. Do not separate protector sleeve from oil seal and do not touch lip of seal. If protector sleeve is removed or seal is inadvertently handled, it must not be fitted as the coating applied to the oil seal during manufacture will be destroyed and oil leakage will result. 5. Remove 2 guide studs, fit and finger tighten remaining 2 bolts. 6. Tighten 5 bolts by diagonal selection to 25 Nm.
Crankshaft rear oil seal - refit 1. Ensure that oil seal running surface on crankshaft and oil seal housing mating surface on cylinder block are clean and oil free and that bolt holes in cylinder block are clean and dry.
2. Screw 2 slave guide studs into cylinder block. 3. Position new gasket to cylinder block ensuring that groove along bottom edge of gasket is towards block. NOTE: O ring fitted to early engines is no longer required.
Piston rings - remove 1. Using a suitable expander, remove and discard piston rings. 2. Using a squared-off end of an old piston ring, remove carbon from piston ring grooves.
Pistons and connecting rods - remove 1. Remove big-end bearings. 2. Suitably identify each piston to its respective cylinder bore, check that arrow on piston crown is pointing towards front of cylinder block; if arrow is not visible, suitably mark piston. 3. Check that plastic tubing is fitted to connecting rod bolts. 4. Push each piston and connecting rod up cylinder bore until they can be withdrawn. 5. Remove big-end bearing shells from connecting rods. CAUTION: Big-end bearing shells should always be renewed. 6. Inspect pistons and connecting rods.

Pistons - remove

Pistons and connecting rods - inspection 1. Remove carbon from piston using fine emery cloth soaked in oil.
1. Suitably identify each piston to its connecting rod, note position of bearing shell tag recess in connecting rod relative to arrow on piston crown. 2. Remove and discard circlips retaining gudgeon pin. 3. Push gudgeon pin out of piston, remove connecting rod. Retain gudgeon pins and connecting rods with their respective pistons.

4. Remove 3 bolts securing baffle plate to cylinder block, remove plate. 5. Remove and discard gasket.
Camshaft, bearings and cam followers inspection 1. Check camshaft cams and bearing journals for overheating, wear and scoring, replace camshaft if necessary. 2. If camshaft is replaced, new bearings must be fitted. 3. Check timing gear drive pin for security. 4. Check camshaft bearings for overheating, wear and scoring and that lubrication holes are clear, replace as necessary. Bearings must be replaced as a set. 5. Check cam follower slides, rollers and cam follower guides for signs of wear. 6. Check that each slide moves freely in its guide and that oilways are clear. Cam followers must be replaced as an assembly. 7. Check that oil passage in oil jet tube is clear. 8. Insert a piece of stiff wire in end of oil jet tube and check that non-return valve can be depressed and closes under spring pressure.
11. Remove 2 bolts securing camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block, remove and discard plate. 12. Carefully withdraw camshaft taking care not to drop end of camshaft on to bearings.
Camshaft - refit and check end-float 1. Remove all traces of gasket from baffle plate and cylinder block using suitable gasket removal spray and a plastic scraper. 2. Lubricate cams, journals and bearings with engine oil. 3. Ensure thrust plate bolt holes in cylinder block are clean and dry.
4. Carefully insert camshaft into cylinder block taking care not to drop end of camshaft on to bearings. 5. Fit a new thrust plate, fit bolts and tighten to 9 Nm.
6. Temporarily fit camshaft timing gear, fit and tighten bolt sufficiently to pull gear fully on to camshaft. 7. Attach a magnetic base DTI to front of cylinder block with stylus of gauge contacting machined face of gear adjacent to gear teeth. 8. Push camshaft fully rearwards and zero gauge. 9. Pull camshaft fully forwards and check that end-float is between 0.1 and 1.2 mm. 10. If end-float exceeds 0.2 mm with new thrust plate fitted, camshaft must be replaced. 11. Remove DTI and timing gear. 12. Fit oil jet tube and tighten to 17 Nm. 13. Lubricate components of each cam follower with engine oil. 14. Lubricate cam follower bores with engine oil.

ENGINE DATA

Rocker shaft Rocker shaft wear - maximum. 0.025 mm Rocker arm shaft to bush clearance - maximum. 0.12 mm Valve clearance - inlet and exhaust. 0.20 mm Oil pump Outer rotor to housing clearance. Inner to outer rotor clearance. Outer rotor end-float. Relief valve spring free length. Cylinder head Cylinder head maximum warpage. Maximum movement of valve to guide. Valve stem diameter: Inlet. Exhaust.
0.025 to 0.075 mm 0.025 to 0.075 mm 0.026 to 0.135 mm 68.0 mm
0.08 mm 0.15 mm 7.96 mm 7.94 mm
Valve head stand down: Inlet. 0.81 to 1.09 mm Exhaust. 0.86 to 1.14 mm Valve seat insert face angle: Inlet. 60 Exhaust. 45 Valve face angle: Inlet. 6000 to 6030 Exhaust. 4500 to 4530 Valve spring free length. 46.28 mm Timing belt tension on torque wrench Used belt. 12 Nm New belt. 15 Nm Drive plate - automatic gearbox Setting height. 12.4 mm

DATA, TORQUE & TOOLS

Crankshaft Maximum bearing journal ovality. Maximum bearing journal run-out. Main bearing journal diameter. Service limit. Regrind diameter. Big-end journal diameter. Service limit. Regrind diameter. Main and big-end bearing oversizes available. Main bearing clearance. Crankshaft end-float. Thrust washer oversizes available: 1st oversize. 2nd oversize. 0.040 mm 0.076 mm 63.475 to 63.487 mm 63.36 mm 63.225 to 63.237 mm 58.725 to 58.744 mm 58.637 mm 58.475 to 58.494 mm 0.25 mm 0.031 to 0.079 mm 0.05 to 0.15 mm 0.063 0.127 mm
Big-end bearing clearance. 0.025 to 0.075 mm Connecting rod end-float. 0.15 to 0.35 mm Camshaft End-float. 0.1 to 0.2 mm Pistons and connecting rods Piston diameter: Standard. 1st oversize. 2nd oversize. Piston to cylinder bore clearance. Connecting rod misalignment - maximum.
90.395 mm 90.649 mm 90.903 mm 0.075 mm 0.075 mm per 25.4 mm
Piston rings Fitted gap in cylinder bore: Top compression. 0.40 to 0.65 mm 2nd compression. 0.30 to 0.50 mm Oil control rails. 0.30 to 0.60 mm Ring to groove clearance: Top compression. 0.167 to 0.232 mm 2nd compression. 0.05 to 0.08 mm Oil control ring assembly. 0.05 to 0.08 mm Cylinder block Cylinder bore maximum ovality. 0.127 mm Cylinder bore maximum taper. 0.254 mm Cylinder bore maximum wear. 0.177 mm Cylinder bore size: Standard. 90.47 mm For 1st oversize piston. 90.73 mm For 2nd oversize piston. 90.98 mm

TORQUE FIGURES Timing belt tensioner bolt. Timing belt idler pulley nut. Flywheel/drive plate housing plug. Timing belt front cover bolts. Crankshaft pulley bolt. Rocker shaft nuts and bolts. Rocker cover nuts. Crankcase breather cyclone unit bolt. Rear timing cover bolts. Oil pressure relief valve plug. Flywheel bolts. Drive plate bolts. Drive plate to starter ring gear bolts. Flywheel/drive plate housing bolts. Coolant outlet elbow bolts. Thermostat housing bolts. Oil filter head bolts. Cylinder head bolts: Stage 1. Stage 2. Stage 3. Stage 4 - Bolts 1, 2, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 17 and 18 only. Sump drain plug. Oil sump bolts. Oil pick-up pipe bolts: To main bearing cap. To timing belt rear cover. Oil drain pipe bolts. Fuel pump timing gear to hub plate bolts. Injector clamp nut. Spill return pipe banjo bolts. Glow plugs. Brake servo vacuum pump bolts. Camshaft gear bolt. Spill return pipe to injection pump banjo bolts. Mounting bracket to fuel injection pump bolts. Fuel injection pump and baffle plate to cylinder block bolts. Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts. Camshaft thrust plate bolts. Camshaft oil jet tube. Piston oil jet banjo bolts. Cam follower guide bolts. Big-end bearing cap nuts. Main bearing cap bolts. 45 Nm 45 Nm 12 Nm 25 Nm 80 Nm then further Nm then further Nm 9 Nm 25 Nm 17 Nm 146 Nm 146 Nm 25 Nm 45 Nm 9 Nm 25 Nm 45 Nm 40 Nm Further 60 Further 60 Further Nm 25 Nm 9 Nm 25 Nm 25 Nm 25 Nm 25 Nm 10 Nm 20 Nm 25 Nm 80 Nm 25 Nm 25 Nm 25 Nm 25 Nm 9 Nm 17 Nm 17 Nm 14 Nm 59 Nm 133 Nm
TOOL NUMBERS LRT-12-007 LRT-12-031 LRT-12-035 LRT-12-038 LRT-12-044 LRT-12-045 LRT-12-046 LRT-12-049 LRT-12-077 LRT-12-078 LRT-12-079 LRT-12-080 LRT-12-082 LRT-12-501 LRT-12-502 LRT-12-515 MS 621 MS 627 Degree plate Remover - crankshaft/camshaft gear Seal guide Remover - valve guide Timing pin Fuel injection pump timing pin Replacer - valve guide Remover - crankshaft pulley Replacer - oil seal Gear remover Replacer - oil seal Retainer - crankshaft pulley Replacer - oil seal Handle set Pilot - valve seat cutter Distance piece 45cutter 60cutter

Business Name

300Tdi Viscous Fan Blade Removal from the Water Pump Pulley
Application: All Land Rovers with 300Tdi engine including: -Defender -Range Rover Classic Parts Needed: -N/A -Discovery

Heritage Rovers, LLC

Tradition-Spirit-Integrity

www.HeritageRovers.com

Heritage Rovers Tools Needed: -300Tdi Fan Wrench #0902 -32-36mm Combination Wrench #0903
1) Remove the top portion of the radiator fan shroud if possible. The upper portion of the shroud has been removed from this Range Rover Classic and the fan blade is visible
1215 46th Avenue North Fargo, ND 58102-5354 USA Phone: 701-371-0896 Email: greg@heritagerovers.com
Heritage Rovers, LLC is not affiliated with Churchill Tools, SPX/OTC, Land Rover, or Tata Motors. Part numbers are given for reference only. Repair is demonstrated for information only and we always recommend using a Land Rover Service Manual. Copyright 2010 Heritage Rovers, LLC
2) This photo shows the tight fit between the water pump pulley and the fan blade! That is where the wrenches go, and why you need them to be thin!
3) Place the 300Tdi Fan Wrench on three of the four bolts of the water pump pulley. In this photo the fan blade has already been removed for clarity so you can see the face of the water pump pulley and the three bolt heads.

300Tdi Fan Wrench

4) Without disturbing the position of the Fan Wrench on the bolt heads, place the 32-36mm Combination Wrench on the viscous fan nut. The 300Tdi should have a 32mm viscous fan nut
32-36mm Combination Wrench
5) While using the 300Tdi Fan Wrench to stabilize the water pump pulley, loosen the viscous fan nut with the 32-36mm Combination Wrench. CONSULT YOUR SHOP MANUAL TO SEE WHETHER YOUR ENGINE HAS RIGHT-HAND (normal) OR LEFT-HAND (reverse) THREADS ON THE FAN NUT! Were not responsible for stripped threads!
5a) In general, the 300Tdi has a 32mm nut which has left-hand (reverse) threads.
6) After you have loosened the viscous fan nut, remove the wrenches and finish removing the fan blade by hand, careful to not let it fall and damage the cooling fins of the radiator. To replace the fan, start the fan nut on the water pump pulley threads by hand and use the wrenches to tighten just enough to be solid. Do not over-tighten.