HELICAL Wind Turbine

Low-speed engine wind wheel Simplest building method! Uses weakest wind! Efficiently stable.

The own current supply

In an environmentally friendly manner and free of charge wouldn't that be a dream? Solar cells are reliable, but are expensive Industrial products, and they dont supply, if needs most, in the dark winter.
With the wind wheel its better
Not only the extremely simple technology of the low-speed engine is a giant advantage, but it runs also nearly perfectly loud less It is particularly interesting that they work straight at weak wind particularly effectively! And usually we have rather weak wind. The new discovery places past all far into the shade: The Magnet driving motor of old washing machines is without change a outstanding generator!

Sample:

Take off, instead weak bulb (bicycle front lamp and/or auto parking light) attach, turn:
These engines nearly never get broken in the washing machine
Suitable washing machines engines
In the engines you do not need to change anything. They work immediately as generator, as soon as you turn the axle, and supply direct current:
Build Your Windmill from old Washing Machine
With Bicycle wheels, Aluminum tape and The Fisher & Paykel Smart drive
something called an F&P. F&P, or Fisher and Paykel, is a white goods manufacturer based in New Zealand. In the 1990's F&P introduced the "Smartdrive" motor into their range of washing machines. The Smartdrive motor was a revolution in domestic washing machine drives at the time and has since then been copied by other Manufacturers. The motor was designed to be efficient, easy to repair and cheap to make

What is a Smart Drive?

Fisher & Paykel Smart Drive Washing Machines

Disclaimer

Systems running on 60 volts and lower cannot, under normal circumstances, cause death in humans by electrocution. When freely spinning, Smart Drive units can produce over 1500 volts, and have the potential to deliver a lethal current through the human Extreme care must be taken to ensure that no contact is made with these high voltages. We accepts no responsibility for any damage, injury or death resulting from working on Smart Drive washing machine motors. It is your responsibility to ensure your safety and the safety of others that may come into contact with the generation unit.

Introduction:

This introduction is intended to give an overview of the use of Smart Drive motors as generators in renewable energy systems. In contains an overview of results for 18 Smart Drive generator options at 12/24/48 volts. Advantage of a Smart drive:
Low speed generator due to large diameter Brushless design Low cost and widely available Generator windings cannot be burnt out Very efficient Easily converted for different voltages Large stainless steel shaft for easy mounting Good corrosion resistance
Smart Drive Parts you need to find
The motor comprises the following components: 25m Stainless Steel shaft Aluminum bearing holder Stator (3 types available) Magnetic Rotor (2 types available) 4 fixing screws 2 stator washers 1 large flat washer

Renewable Energy Systems

The above diagram shows the main components in a Renewable Energy system. Smart Drive wind turbine Photo Voltaic panels (PV) Solar hot water heating Battery bank Inverter converts battery dc power to volt ac for normal house use Regulator controls battery charging and d iverts power not required to hot water
If you want Renewable Energy to succeed, establish your house to be energy efficient: An off grid house without hydro will normally need both a wind and solar PV system. Good energy efficient refrigeration Compact florescent lights LCD flat screen TV and computer (preferred) Good insulation and double glazing with passive solar heating Good energy efficient habits LPG cooking Sparing use of electric appliances that produce heat Solar hot water heating with wood fire (or LPG gas) back up

How to get the parts you need
There is very little to a Smart Drive washing machine, they can be dismantled in a matter of minutes. Remove the plastic top; Unhook the 4 bowl hangers from inside and lift out the entire bowl as shown. Remove the cap from the top of the agitator, reach inside and undo the plastic nut that holds the agitator onto the shaft. Remove the agitator then undo the screws on the retaining ring.
You can now remove the stainless steel bowl from within the plastic outer bowl. Turn the unit over and work from the bottom, remove the magnetic plastic rotor. It should look like the Picture below.
Undo the four fixing screws that hold the copper wire wound stator onto the bearing assembly; You can now cut out the bearing assembly from the plastic bowl with a saber saw. If you dont have a saber saw you could hire one. The other way would be to use a jig saw to cut the bottom off the plastic bowl and then use a band saw to cut the bearing assembly from this piece. Resist the temptation to use a chain saw; It is not a good idea. The cut bearing assembly should look like this: The pictures show the rough cut bearing assembly viewed from both ends, and then the same view after the unit has been machined on a lathe. Note that the seal has been removed and the plastic machined down to expose the aluminum fixing channels. This allows the unit to be fixed to a mounting surface.
Machining the bearing assembly plastic housing
To machine on a lathe, put the shaft into the 3jaw lathe chuck, slide on the bearing assembly with the four fixing screws half in, so that the screws rest in between the jaws of the chuck. When the lathe is started the bearing assembly will rotate with the shaft and can be machined down. Take only small cuts otherwise you will shear off the fixing screws from the bearing housing. For production work, make a dedicated jig to hold the rough cut bearing holders securely so that large cuts can be made.
Spinning of shaft in bearings
After a number of early failures, we became aware that in order to prevent the bearing spinning on the shaft is it absolutely necessary to loctite the shaft onto the bearings. Remember to thoroughly clean the surface to be glued first. This prevents the bearing from spinning which would otherwise damage the shaft leading to misalignment of the stator and rotor. Another good tip is to lightly knurl the bearing surface on a lathe. This roughens the surface and provides good adhesion for the loctite. Knurling also increases the outside diameter so the fit changes from a clearance fit to an interference fit and the shaft will need to be tapped into the bearing with a mallet. This is advisable on highly loaded shafts where there is significant side loading from a chain or V belt. If you do forget to do this and the shaft spins in the bearing, if the damage is only minor to the shaft you can dot punch to raise the bearing surface, then loctite and tap the bearing on with a mallet, this usually fixes the problem. It pays to loctite it first.

Smart Drive Star Point

Star Connection Delta Connection
60, 80, 100 series stators, 56 or 48 magnets?

What's the dif?

If your new to F&P smart drive's, you will hear people refer to the different types as 60's, 80's or 100's. No, these are not F&P model numbers, if you go into your local F&P agent and ask then for a 80 series stator, they will look at you with a blank face.

"You want a what!

They are the way the F&P windmill guys know the different types, and it refers to the diameter of the wire used in the windings. A 60 series has 0.6mm diameter copper wire, the 80 has 0.8mm copper, and the 100 has 1mm copper. Now for some photos.
First Generation stators (100S Star units) The 100 series, becoming rare, used in the early model F&P Smart drive washing machines. Wire size approx 1mm diameter, 42 Poles
Resistance of each phase = 1.0 ohms
Second Generation stators (80S Star units) These units can be recognized quickly by the wire diameter used to wind the stator and their very tidy appearance. This is the very common 80 series. Wire size approx 0.8mm diameter, 42 Poles
Resistance of each phase = 5.8 ohms
Third Generation stators (60S Star units) These units can be recognized quickly by the wire diameter used to wind the stator. It is approximately 0.60mm diameter and Series wound in Star hence the name 60S Star. Note the messy winding, but this has no effect on performance. This stator has been de-cogged, note the rounded ends of the poles. Wire size approx 0.6mm diameter, 42 Poles
Resistance of each phase = 15.2 ohms
This is the new 36 pole stator used in the very latest F&P washing machines. Note the rounded poles. Wire size approx 0.6mm diameter, 36 Poles
There are three magnet hub types. The early 100 series hub has individual magnets. Again, becoming rare. 56 magnets.
F&P later introduced the wider magnets, actually four magnets in one magnet block. I believe this was done to reduce the whining noise when the washing machine was in spin cycle. There are 14 magnet blocks, giving us a total of 56 magnets. You can see the area where the N and S poles meet by traces of rusty iron filings.
Below is the latest hub, and suits the 36 pole stator shown above. It has shorter magnet blocks, each with 3 magnets. All up there are 16 magnet blocks, giving us 48 magnets. The magnets are also arrow shaped to reduce cogging. We have used this new hub on the older 42 pole stators with very good results.

Type one and type two rotors
The early type one rotors are very distinctive with 56 separate magnets. These rotors are commonly found on washing machines that have 100S stators inside. The type two rotors appear to have 14 large magnets, this however is an illusion, as within each magnet there are in fact 4 separate magnets.
Type 1 rotor (old design) Type 2 rotor (latest design)

3 Phase Rectification

A Smart Drive is a 3phase alternator. It has to be for it to be for brushless design. For DC output you need to use a 3phase rectifier. You can either buy one or make one yourself. Singlephase rectifier blocks are very common. From three of these blocks you can make a 3phase rectifier which is less expensive than buying a dedicated 3 phase unit. Car alternators also have inside them 3 phase rectifiers and shops that supply car alternators can supply you.
Automotive type Electrical component type DIY from 3 single phase rectifiers On the automotive type unit shown the heat sinks are the positive and negative terminals, the three AC terminals are clearly shown Electrical component 3 phase rectifiers can be expensive in the large sizes; these have 5 terminals as shown. DIY rectifiers you can make yourself with 3 singlephase rectifiers at shown. Solder all the positives and all the negatives together and each phase onto the two AC pins on each single rectifier block.
Smart Drive Test Result Summary Graphs

24 volt Star & Delta

80SP Stator 24 volt

Conclusion

The retasking of Smart Drives as generators can be an environmentallyfriendly process, recycling a component that would otherwise end up in landfill, creating clean, renewable energy efficiently, and decreasing the users dependence on fossil fuels. All of us here at EcoInnovation wish you good luck with your project.
Part No. P The old hubs had 14 large ceramic blocks, each with 4 magnets, giving us 56 magnets. The new hub has 16 ceramic blocks, each with 3 magnets, giving us 48 magnets, and the new ceramic blocks are physically smaller than the old type. The new hub magnet lines up with a stator pole every 7 poles (where it was every 3 poles with an old hub). On the subject of tiles, each tile consists of magnets, the old 4 magnet tile to the left, and a 3 magnet tile on the new hubs to the right. There would be two different new tiles, one that goes N S N, and one that goes S N S. Now to keep these new 7 phase configurations separate from the old 3 phase configurations, I've come up with a new naming scheme.

We can use out standard re-wire naming scheme as explained 7Phase 1X6C = 6 coils wired in series. Max volts, good for 48 volts systems or 12 / 24 volts on a slow running turbine.

F&P Stator Rewiring

From factory the Fisher & Paykel stator is wired into one large star winding, producing 3 phase AC when used as a generator*. If we were to use this on our windmill the output voltage would range from 0 to 300 volts unloaded, and up to 2-3 amps maximum loaded, not a very usable range for charging batteries. The standard stators have either a string of 14 or 12 poles for each phase. 3 phases, means 42 or 36 poles total, depending on what stator model you have. We are going to rewire the stator into shorter strings to reduce the voltage, and then connect these strings in parallel to increase the current.
Technically its an ALTERNATOR, but the term GENERATOR is more commonly used.
There are 2 F&P Smartdrive motors commonly used for our windmill alternators, the old 42 coil model, and the new 36 coil model. Where we refer to the stator as a whole, we generally call it a 42pole or 36 pole type. To avoid any confusion, we've come up with a new naming scheme to describe the different rewiring options. Originally instead of the word "coils" we were using "poles" to describe the number of coils or poles in series. This caused confusion, as P ( poles ) can be mistaken for "Parallel". We ended up with 2 different naming schemes that caused a few people to incorrectly wire up their stators.
So the new naming scheme, or "code", is. C is Coils ( same as Poles ) X is Times The factory 42 pole stator has 14 poles ( coils ) wired in series. So that would make it a 1X14C ( 1 times 14 coils in series ) If we split the 14 coils into two lots of 7 coils, we would half the output voltage and double the output current. This would be a 2X7C ( that's 2 times 7 coils in series ) Most windmill re-wires are using the 42 pole model, wired in a 3 phase star configuration. However, if it's a little different, just add the details to the code. 2X7C Delta would be as above but wired in delta. 36Pole 3X4C would be a 36 pole stator wired with 3 times 4 coils in series. 7Phase 2X3C is a 7 phase conversion with 2 times 3 coils in series.

Re-Wiring the stator

First up, the old 42 pole conversion. The 42 pole stators are still the most common and easiest to source. Click on the image to see the full size diagram.
At right is a diagram of the stator factory winding. I've labeled the phases X Y & Z. Remember you can click on these diagrams to see full size. This a 1 times 14 coils, making it a 1X14C using our naming scheme.
This is a stator "split into two", so we end up with 2 times 7 coils in series. Best suited
to 48 volts or 24 volts in low winds. Using our naming scheme, this would be a 2X7C
This is how we rewire the stator as 7 groups of 2 poles star configuration, suitable for most 12 and 24 volt applications, depending on how fast your turbine runs and what wire size the stator is.

And this is how we can wire the stator to use for either star or delta configurations. The star/delta option gives you the ability to connect the stator as a star or delta. Delta will produce more power at high revs, but star will start making power at lower rev's and is the preferred option.
The standard stator. First remove traces of corrosion and file off any rust on the laminations
Cut the winding at every 6 poles. This will give you a total of 7 groups of windings, each with 6 poles, 2 poles per phase.
With sandpaper, clean the enamel off all leads for approx 15mm from ends.
If you are making a 3 wire star stator, twist and solder the star midpoint connections.
Strip lengths of wire as shown. Use wire capable of at least 15amps.
Solder three ( or six if you are going for the 6 wire star/delta option ) lengths of heavy electrical cable ( 4-5mm dia copper ) to the original connection terminal terminals, then strip back 5mm at each connection point. Cut the cables at the last connection point. This will form our power "bus". Wrap each star end wire around the bus wires as shown, and solder. You will need a good soldering iron for this.
Once all star windings have been soldered, cable ties the bus wires to secure the assembly.
The finished stator. Give the stator a good coating of varnish (or similar) to protect from the weather.
If you decide to wire as a 6 wire delta/star configuration, you stator should look something like this.
If you use a 6 wire star/delta configuration, the diagram at right will show you how to connect the output leads together.
Next we'll look at the new 36 pole stator. I havent done any testing with this model to date, but reports from others indicate slightly less power than the old 42 pole stators. However, the new 36 pole stators don't have any of the cogging problems that have plagued the 42 pole stators for years. The 32 pole also give us a larger range of re-wire options ( 36 divides down better than 42!) The suggested rewire diagrams are a guide only; there are no "use this re-wire with this turbine to get this voltage" rules at this stage.
This is the standard factory wiring. This would work best for a slow running windmill, like a savonius type. 36Pole 1X12C
Rewired as 6 coils in series. Again suitable for low speed turbine or high battery voltage ( 48 volts or above ). 36Pole 2X6C
Rewired as 4 coils in series. Suitable for low speed turbine on 12 volt system or high speed turbine on 48 volt system. General all rounder. 36Pole 3X4C
Rewired as 3 coils in series. 12 or 24 volt systems. Another general all rounder. 36Pole 4X3C
2 coils in series. 12 volts, high speed turbine. 36Pole 6X2C
connection from generator to consumer
I built the first wind wheel of this kind in scarcely 7 days.
In the meantime we have two wind wheels of this simple design since April 2007 in lasted nonstop, without there was ever a loss or damage, also not in the gale February 2008.

The bicycle Windmill!

Because of the magnetic fields dependence a Vortex should turn the hand in the northern hemisphere approximately and in the southern one with it.

Assembly

Situation of the drillings mark

engines supply sources

http://www.ecoinn.co.nz http://randysworkshop.com
Fisher & Paykel Smart Drive Motors
LG stator and rotor LG WD1065FD, LG WD1066FD, LG WD12120FD, LG WD12121FD, LG WD12124RD, LG WD12126RD, LG WD12220FD, LG WD1265FD, LG WD14110FD, LG WD14115FD, LG WD14120FD, LG WD14123RD, LG WD14125FD, LG WD14125RD, LG WD14126FD, LG WD14225FD, LG WD1481FD, LG WD16100FD, LG WD16101FD, LG WD16225FD, LG WDA1601FD, LG WDB1601FD, LG WM1080FHD, LG WM1085FHD, LG WM11220FD, LG WM12220FD, LG WM12225FD, LG WM1260FHD, LG WM1265FHD, LG WM1280FHD, LG WM1285FHD LG WM1285FHD, LG WM13220FD, LG WM14220FD, LG WM14225FD, LG WM1460FHD, LG WM1465FHD, LG WM1480FHD, LG WM1485FHD, LG WM16100FD, LG WM16105FD, LG WM16110FD, LG WM16115FD, LG WM16220FD, LG WM16225FD, LG WM3201FHD, LG WM3203FHD http://www.espares.co.uk/parts?k=ES147270 http://www.espares.co.uk/parts?k=ES173848 Maytag
MTW6600TB0: The rotor part number is PS993018, The stator part number PS990453

Whirlpool