Mamiya C330S Manual

Mamiya C330 Professional

Mamiya C330S & C330

This manual was adapted for the web from scans of an original C330S manual. The scans were done by Erik Jonker. During the conversion to the web version I made a few style changes as well as a couple of grammer changes, mainly to make the document more web friendly. Also thanks to Keven Fedirko for finding all of my typos. There are also a few additions that I made; pointing out where the C330S differs from the original C330, and the color photos on page 3 are of a C330, and not a C330s. (the color photos are by Bob Erdman). Scans of the tables on pages 40 and 41 were difficult to read and I am hoping to get some better scans so that I can complete them. At the moment they are empty.eventually they should contain the depth of field tables for the 7 lenses listed in the manual. Hope you find this helpful.John M. Brewer of a few propellerheads. [START] | Table of Contents | Next ->
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Mamiya C330S: Contents

Before using the camera, read these instructions very carefully, and learn the correct method of hanlding it. By becoming completely families with the Mamiya C330 Professional "S", you can for many years to come make the most of the splendid opportunities this fine camera offers.

Contents

Specifications.2 Names of Parts.3 Lens Mounting/Removal.5 Handling the Neck Strap..7 Handling Focusing Hood.8 Opening and Closing the Back Cover..11 Congratulations on your choice of Winding and Shutter Test Without Film.12 Mamiya C330 Professional "S" Before Loading Film..13 twin-lens reflex camera. Loading Film..14 Photographing.17 This mamiya C330S, an Distance Scale..19 exceptionally high-grade camera, was Close-up Photography.21 designed by emphasizing further Changing the Focusing Hood.23 improvements on the popular Mamiya C series. Retaining the many Changing the Focusing Screen.25 Flash Photography..26 features of the Mamiya C series Handling the 105mm f/3.5 Lens..27 cameras which have won highest praise from professional Multiple Exposures.29 photographers the world over as Precautions on Shutter Operations.29 unique twin-lens reflex cameras (2Mamiya Sekor Lenses..31 1/4 in. square format) with Accessories..33 interchangeable lenses. Depth-of-Field Tables.40 System Chart for Mamiya C330S..42 Final results reveal that this Mamiya C330S, an ideal camera for professional photographers, is also a wise choice for the many advanced amateurs who wish to take advantage of fine details in enlargements which only a large format camera truly makes possible. The Mamiya C330S accepts all interchangeable lenses of the current Mamiya C series as well as all of the accessories except the single exposure attachment.
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With the wide selection of all these interchangeable lenses and accessories, you can further widen your scope of photography by making the most of the unlimited versatility of Mamiya C330S offers. <- Prev | Table of Contents | Next ->

Folding the Focusing Hood Return the sportsfinder frame and flap; then fold the magnifier. In this condition, the focusing hood can be folded by pressing the front frame inward while pushing both side panels inward.**.
The original focusing hood does not have a release button, simply jiggle the sportsfinder flap with your finger to release. ** The original focusing hood does not have hinged flaps. You will need to fold the side flaps down before folding down the back, and finally the front flaps.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 11

Opening & Closing the Back Cover
To familiarize yourself with the operation of your camera, practice the shutter release before loading film.
Push the back cover open knob (31) while the back cover lock button (30) is pulled down, and the back cover is open. When the back cover opens, the figure in the exposure counter automatically returns to '0'.
When closing the back cover, firmly press both sides of the back cover, making sure that neither side of the back cover is open or loose. Unless the back 1. Check to make sure that the cover is closed tightly, the automatic film stopper will not triangle mark on the lens lock knob points to LOCK and work. SINGLE on the multiple exposure dial matches the red dot. 2. The shutter release lock should be fully pulled backward. If the triangle mark of the release lock is aligned with the "L", the shutter button cannot be depressed. <- Prev | Table of Contents | Next ->
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Mamiya C330S: Page 12

Winding & Shutter Test Without Film
the shutter will be released. By turning the film advance crank until it stops the shutter button may be depressed again. Depending on the kind of takeup spools (especially in case of metal one) the shutter may not be cocked by a single winding. When the shutter speed ring is set on "B" (Bulb), the shutter will remain open as long as the shutter button is depressed and it will close as soon as the shutter button is released. This method is used for a long exposure of 2 seconds or more.

Open the back cover and make sure that a spool has been inserted into the take-up spool chamber. 3. By closing the back cover and turning the film advance crank, the exposure counter will advance. When figure 1 appears on the counter, the crank will be stopped.
Turn the shutter speed ring and align a desired shutter speed with the index line. The shutter speed ring must be set on a click stop position. Turn the aperture ring and set a desired f/stop to the index line. The aperture ring may be set at intermediate click stop positions. 5. Depress the shutter button and
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Mamiya C330S: Page 13

Before Loading Film
This camera accepts either 120 or 220 roll film. It has an automatic film stopper and a double exposure prevention device. Take the following steps before loading film: 1. Preventing Double Exposures Turn the multiple exposure dial (28) until SINGLE matches the red dot of the side plate. This action locks the shutter release button until the film is wound, and prevents accidental double exposures. 2. Adjust the film pressure plate according to the film used. (120 or 220) Open the back cover and turn the film pressure plate either to the right or to the left 90 degrees until the red dot on the film pressure plate matches the figure 120 or 220 respectively.
The exposure counter is automatically set to match the used film size when the back cover is closed. The figure 120 or 220 will appear in the film size indicating window at the center of the back cover.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 14

Loading Film
1. Open the back cover and pull out the upper spool change knob (31), then insert an empty spool into the take-up spool chamber (36) so that it engages the winding axis. Let go of the spool change knob.
2. Pull out the lower spool change knob (32), and insert a roll of film into the film chamber (38). By turning the spool change knobs either to the right or to the left after pulling them outward, the knobs stay at their protruded positions. Turn the knobs backward to reinsert them.

If either spool change knob is not returned to its original position after loading film, unbalanced film winding will result. To make sure that the spool change knobs fit their original positions, move the spools slightly to the right and to the left or up and down.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 15

Loading Film (cont.)
3. Pull out the leader paper of the film and insert it into the slit of the take-up spool, turn the film advance crank clockwise until the start mark on the leader paper matches the start marks on the camera.
4. Close the back cover. When closing the back cover, firmly press both sides at the upper portions of the back cover as indicated in the photo.
Memo Holder As a reminder of the type and number of exposures of the film loaded in the camera, tear off the end of the film box and insert it in the memo holder on the back cover.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 16

5. Turn the film advance crank clockwise until it stops. The figure 1 appears on the exposure counter at the position where the crank stops diagonally upward, and the shutter is automatically set. Now the camera is ready for the first exposure. Turn the crank each time one picture is exposed. Regardless of the
number of pictures taken, the crank always stops at a diagonally upward position. In this position, when folding the crank in the opposite direction, the crank can be recessed into the body. The crank cannot be turned in reverse direction, and the shutter release button can only be pressed at the crank stops position.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 17

Photographing
1. After focusing, turn the shutter speed ring (6) and set the shutter speed, then adjust the aperture of the lens by turning the aperture control knob (23). Any of three procedures mentioned above can be performed first. 2. Release the shutter by pressing the shutter release button (21) or (24). When a cable release is used, screw its tip into the cable release socket in the lower button (24). 3. After each exposure, wind the film by turning the film advance crank, then follow the same procedure as mentioned above. Focusing Knob Fixing After adjusting the focus, turn the focusing knob fixing lever (14) forward and appropriately clamp it, whereby the focusing mechanism is secured. Deviation in focusing can be prevented in this manner, when continuously taking pictures, taking snapshots with wide-angle lenses, close-up photographs, and using telephoto lenses. <- Prev | Table of Contents | Next ->

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Mamiya C330S: Page 18

Photographing (cont.)
How to Remove Film When all film frames have been exposed, the film winding stop mechanism is automatically disengaged. Remove the film after winding the remaining backing paper on the film end. Winding Up the Roll Film To remove film before exposing the entire roll, or to wind up a short roll of film after exposure (6-exposure color films), turn the film advance crank while depressing the shutter button on the camera body after winding the exposed frame. In this manner, film can be completely wound without stopping.
Locking the Shutter Button* By shifting the triangle mark on the lock button (22) to the letter 'L', the shutter button is locked. During a period when the camera is not in use and is stored in the case, inadvertent shutter release can be prevented.
* On the earlier C330, the shutter locking button is a small round button found on the metal lever above the side

shutter release button.

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Mamiya C330S: Page 19

Distance Scale
A distance scale is provided on the left side (viewing the camera held for photographing). By turning the knob (13), set the distance scale to coincide with the lens used, so that the scale faces horizontally. Distance scales for 55mm, 65mm, and 80mm lenses are indicated in orange. Read these scales at the index position in the window. Distance scales for 105mm DS, 135mm, 180mm, and 250mm lenses are indicated in black. Read these scales at the front end of the camera body side plate. Since the flange-focal length varies between the 105mm f/3.5 DS or 105mm f/3.5D lens and the former 105mm f/3/5 lens, a special distance scale is provided. A distance scale marked 105DDS is used for 105mm D and 105mm DS lenses. A distance scale marked 105 is used for the former 105mm lens. The former distance scale for the C330f cannot be used for the C330S. The distance scales are available in two types, scaled in feet or meters. <- Prev | Table of Contents | Next ->
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Mamiya C330S: Page 20

Distance Scale (cont.)
Replacing the Distance Scale To remove the distance scale, first, fully extend the bellow by turning the focusing knob, then remove the scale end cover by sliding it to the front. Next, detach the distance scale from the bearing, while pressing in the distance scale shaft with a pointed, fine wire.
When installing the distance scale, insert the shaft end opposite the revolving knob into the camera body bearing. Insert the shaft end while pressing the spring located near the bearing to the inner side with the side of the scale. Next, fit the shaft to the front bearing while pushing in the shaft tip with a finger nail; then install the cover as it originally was. <- Prev | Table of Contents | Next ->

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Mamiya C330S: Page 21

Close-up Photography
Setting the Parallax Correcting Dial: By turning the parallax correcting dial (10), set the dial index to the focal lenght of the lens used. Subsequently, while the lens is being extended, the pointer will appear on the upper left portion of the focusing screen. The position of this pointer indicates parallax and the exposure factor. Correcting Parallax: When the pointer appears on the focusing screen, the upper portion visible above the pointer will be cut off on the film. Be sure that the subject satisfactorily appears under the lower portion of this pointer. When using the camera on a tripod, use the Paramender (parallax correcting device) to ensure that the camera photographs the same image viewed on the focusing screen through simple operations. Compensating Exposure: As distance between the lens and film increases, image brightness on the film is reduced even though aperture size remains the same. Consequently, it is necessary to increase the exposure. The figures on the focusing screen left side indicate the exposure factor. Compensate in the exposure after reading the figure indicated by the pointer while focusing. For instance, assuming that the correct exposure value measured by an exposure meter is 1/125 sec. at f/11, compensate in the exposure as follows: If the pointer indicates 2, 1/125 sec., f/8 or 1/60 sec., f/11 If the pointer indicates 3, 1/125 sec., between f/8 & f/5.6 or 1/60 sec., between f/11 & f/8 <- Prev | Table of Contents | Next ->
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Mamiya C330S: Page 22

Close-up Photography (cont.)
When Using a 55mm or 65mm Lens: When using a 55mm or 65mm lens, set the dial (10) to 80 and attach the parallax correction plate for 55mm/65mm lenses to the focusing hood.
How to Install the Parallax Correction Plate: Remove the focusing hood from the camera and turn it inside out. Also turn the correction plate inside out and insert its chamfered edge into the two catches on the hood, then fit the correction plate while pulling out the slide lock on the opposite side. When the slide lock is released, the plate is secured. The figures visible on the left side of the correction plate after attaching the focusing hood to the camera reveal the exposure factor. Observe the line on the right for correcting parallax. When the pointer indicates 1.5, the upper portion of the first line will be cut off. In turn, this becomes a correcting scale when the exposure factor is 2, 2.5 and 3. <- Prev | Table of Contents | Next ->

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Mamiya C330S: Page 23

Changing the Focusing Hood
The focusing hood can be replaced with various finders available for this camera as optional accessories.
Removing the Focusing Hood Turn the focusing hood lock screw (34) counterclockwise and pull back the hood and move it upward; then the hood can be taken off.
Attaching the Focusing Hood Match the grooves on the hood's front sides to the pins of the camera body, fit the groove on the hood's rear to the focusing hood lock screw, then tighten it.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 24

Changing the Magnifier
Changing the Magnifier (for diopter correction) In addition to the standard magnifier (-1.5 diopter), diopter lenses of +2, +1, 0, -2 and -3 diopter are available for near and farsighted persons. The standard -1.5 diopter magnifier is designed for users, wether or not they wear eyeglasses, who have no trouble seeing clearly a subject up to 2.5 ft. (70cm) away. Those who have difficulty seeing clearly at such a distance should use an appropriate diopter lens available as an optional accessory. However, before making a purchase, test the diopter lens at your Mamiya dealer to make sure it matches your eye. Changing Method 1. Raise the focusing hood; then depress the sportsfinder flap and frame. 2. Fold the raised magnifier, then lay the camera down with the lens facing upward. 3. Hold the base plate of the magnifier from inside and under the focusing hood, with the backs of the pins (B) held by your fingers, thus preventing the base plate from being depressed. 4. By turning the retainer (A) towards the arrow direction in the photo, the retainer and the magnifier can be removed. In this case, turn the retainer one side at a time while pushing it towards the base plate, also holding the base plate from the back as mentioned above. 5. To attach the magnifier, place the magnifier and the retainer on the base plate, facing the flat surface of the magnifier downward; then, by turning the retainer clockwise while pressing it towards the base plate, the retainer will snap into the pins (B). When looking through the magnifier for focusing, the flat surface of the glass will face one's eyes. <- Prev | Table of Contents | Next ->

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Mamiya C330S: Page 25

Changing the Focusing Screen
Various types of focusing hoods are available to meet individual needs or preferences.
Removing the Focusing Screen Remove the focusing hood and slide the focusing screen frame lock (35) in the direction of the arrow, then the focusing screen holder will pop-up. Remove the focusing screen by holding its both side edges.
Attaching the Focusing Screen Hold both side edges of the focusing screen so that the Fresnel lens surface faces upward, then insert the focusing screen into the screen holder.
After checking to make sure the screen is correctly fitted into the screen holder, depress the focusing screen frame. Then the focusing screen will be locked in place. Since the focusing screens surfaces are soft and easily damaged, handle them carefully. Never touch the surface with bare fingers, should dust settle on it, merely blow away by using a blower.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 26

Flash Photography
When a falsh unit is used for photographing, connect the synchro cord to the synchro socket (2). When using an electronic flash unit, set the M-X synchro selector (3) on X to synchronize all shutter speeds.
When using M-class flash bulbs, set the M-X synchro selector (3) on M to synchronize flash at all shutter speeds. This M-X synchro selector can be switched even after cocking the shutter. When photographing without flash, keep the M-X synchro selector on X. Flash Synchronization Table Shutter Speed Contact M X M class o o o o o o o x x x x Combinations with the o mark synchronize. Combinations with the x mark do not synchronize. <- Prev | Table of Contents | Next -> Type of Flash B 1 1/2 1/4 1/8 1/15 1/30 1/60 1/125 1/250 1/500 M class o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o

Electronic Flash o o

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Mamiya C330S: Page 27

Handling the 105mm f/3.5 DS Lens
The 105mm f/3.5 DS lens is equiped with diaphragms on the viewing lens, thus enabling you to observe the depth-of-field on the focusing screen. In addition, this lens-shutter has a built in selftimer. and decreases as the lens is opened up to larger apertures. Viewing on the Focusing Screen After focusing, set the desired aperture to the central index mark by turning the aperture scale ring of the viewing lens. Now, the depth-of-field can be ovserved on the focusing screen. be obtained with the aperture you are using. For example, if the camera is focused at 30 ft. (10m) at an aperture of f/16, the range of sharp focus will be approximately from 15 ft. (5m) to infinity.

Depth-of-Field Control When the camera is focused on a subject, a certain area in front of and behind the subject is also in focus; this is called the depthof-field. Depth-of-field varies in relation to the aperture in use; it increases as the aperture is stopped down to smaller apertures,
Note: The aperture scale of the viewing lens does not interlock with the taking lens, so in Using the Depth-of-Field actual photography, never Scale Turn the distance scale ring and forget to set the aperture of the taking lens. set the focused distance to the centra index mark. Next, select and aperture and set it to the The distance scale of the central index mark, and look at viewing lens is provided to read the corresponding figures on the depth-of-field, and has no the depth-of-field scale on both relation with actual focusing. sides of the central index mark. This is the extent of the depthof-field that will
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Mamiya C330S: Page 28

Handling the 105mm f/3.5 DS Lens (cont.)
The M-X synchro selector (3) can be moved before or after cocking the shutter. After finishing photographing with the self-timer, return the selector to the X position. If left on the V position, the self-timer will be activated for the next picture. If you notice that the self-timer is activated after releasing the shutter for ordinary photography, depress the shutter cocking lever immediately to switch off the selftimer. Then set the synchro selector to X or M to restore ordinary shutter action.
Self-Timer Operation By setting M-X synchro selector to the V position, the shutter is released approximately 10 seconds after pressing the shutter release button. At this V setting, X flash synchronization is offered.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 29

Multiple Exposures/Precautions on Shutter Ops.
Turn the multiple exposure dial (28) and set the word 'MULTI' to the red dot, then the double exposure prevention is disengaged. The shutter button can be depressed without advancing the film, whenever the shutter is cocked manually. Upon finishing photography, be sure to set the word 'SINGLE' of the dial back to the red dot. When photographing is suspended with the shutter button depressed halfway, it very rarely happens that the shutter button cannot be depressed on the next attempt. In this case, the shutter can be released by setting the 'MULTI' to the red dot, without needlessly advancing the film.
Precautions on Shutter Operations In any of the following situations, the safety mechanism prevents the shutter release button from being depressed. 1. When the triangle mark of the lens lock knob points to UNLOCK. Red warning mark will appear on the ground glass focusing screen in the finder. 2. When the triangle mark on the shutter release lock is set to 'L'. 3. When 'SINGLE' on the multiple exposure dial is set to the red dot, and. (1) When film is not loaded (exposure counter indicates '0'). (2) When the film has not been wound completely. (3) When the shutter release button has already been pressed. (4) When the last film in roll is exposed (after 12 or 24 exposures). To freely release the shutter or for multiple exposures, set the multiple exposure dial so that the 'MULTI' matches the red dot.

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Mamiya C330S: Page 30

Precautions on Shutter Operations (cont.)
250mm f/6.3 and 80mm f/3.7 lenses. Shutters of these lenses have no self-cocking system, requiring the shutter to be set manually after each film advance.
For certain lens-shutter assemblies (such as the formar 80mm f/3.7 lens), the release lever of the lens-shutter can be depressed many times even though the shutter is not cocked. When the shutter is not cocked, the shutter blades do not open. When using this type of lensshutter, no picture will be recorded on the film if the shutter button is depressed without cocking the shutter. If you find the shutter blades are unopened after depressing the shutter button, the shutter button cannot be depressed again by the double exposure prevention device even if the shutter is cocked afterwards. In this case, set the multiple exposure dial to the 'MULTI' and depress the shutter button, or release the shutter by pushing the release lever on the lens-shutter assembly.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 31

Mamiya-Sekor Lenses
55mm f/4.5 65mm f/3.5 80mm f/2.8 105mm f/3.5DS

135mm f/4.5

Super 180mm f/4.5

250mm f/6.3

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Mamiya C330S: Page 32

Mamiya-Sekor Lenses (cont.)
Filter Diameter (mm) Lens Hood Diameter (mm) Shortest Distance from Film to Subject

Close-Up Capabilities

Composition

Picture Angle

Minimum Aperture

Subject Coverage

55mm f/4.5

9 element 7 group

9 1/2 in. 2 17/32 in.2 (24.1 cm) (6.4 cm2) 10 11/21/32 in.2 in. 2 (27.1 cm) (6.7 cm ) 1 ft. 25/64 in.2 15/16 in. 2 (35.4 cm) (8.6 cm ) 1 ft. 11 in. (58.4 cm) 7 1/4 in.2 (18.4 cm2)
6 element 65mm f/3.group 5 element 80mm f/2.group 105mm f/3.5DS 135mm f/4.5 Super 180mm f/4.5 250mm f/6.element 3 group 4 element 3 group 5 element 4 group 6 element 4 group
2 ft. 11 1/15/16 in.2 in. 2 (90.2 cm) (25.2 cm ) 4 ft. 2 3/4 in. (1 m 29 cm) 10 53/64 in.2 (27.5 cm2)
6 ft. 8 3/ft. 1/4 in.2 in. 2 (2 m 5 cm) (31.1 cm )
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Mamiya C330S: Page 33

Accessories
Filter Filters are available in five types: SY48 (Y2), SO56 (O2), SL39 (UV), YG, SL-1B (skylight). Filter sizes for each lens are shown in the system chart. When using a 49mm diameter filter, employ the 49mm filter for Mamiya C; otherwise attaching the lens hood might be impossible. When you order filters, always specify the Mamiya C Professional type. To attach a filter to a lens of 49mm filter diameter, place your palm on the protective lens ring screwed into the front barrel of the lens, turn the ring counter-clockwise to remove it, and then screw in the filter. When a filter is not used, always replace the ring to protect the lens barrel. 2. Lens hood for 65mm lens* 3. Lens hood 48mm for 80mm f/2.8, 105mm f/3.5 DS and 135mm f/4.5 lenses. 4. Lens hood for super 180mm and 250mm lenses*.

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Mamiya C330S: Page 36

(4a) Grip Holder
The grip holder is a very convenient accessory for hand holding the camera while taking pictures or for carrying the camera. Its accesory shoe is attached on the top of the grip.
A trigger-type design is adopted for this grip, interlocked with the camera shutter release button. It is equipped with a lock device so that the trigger cannot be depressed inadvertently. The accessory shoe on the grip can be freely turned in either direction and secured.

(4b) Grip Holder (for

Mamiya C330 and RZ/RB) The camera shutter can be released by triggering the shutter button of this grip. This grip can also be used for the Mamiya RZ/RB.
(5) Multi-angle Grip (for
Mamiya C330 and RZ/RB) The grip mounting angle can be freely turned by single action, when one's finger is removed, the grip is secured after each 20degree turn.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 37

(6) Pistol Grip Model 2 (for
Mamiya C330 and RZ/RB) A trigger-type shutter release button is interlocked with the camera. By replacing the changeable base plate, an optional flashgun bracket may be attached. When a subgrip is mounted instead of the flashgun bracket, further stabilized eyelevel photography becomse possible.
(8) Focusing Knob Adapter
DSF-2/DSM-2 (for Mamiya C330S and C220f) An adapter for attaching to the focusing knob to facilitate precise focusing. Focused distance can be read easily by using distance scales (for 65, 80, and 105mm lenses) which comes with the adapter. The DSF is calibrated in foot and the DSM, in meter.

(7) Paramender Model 2

This is a parallax-correcting instrument used between the camera base and a tripod. Keep the part attached to the camera base downward while focusing, then raise the camera position by turning the handle unit it stops prior to releasing the shutter. Thus, the taking lens is lifted to the position where the viewing lens was, and parallax is hereby automatically corrected.
From left to right: Flashgun bracket Type M (for Mamiya flashgun), Type H (for Heiland flashgun), Type G (for Graflex flashgun), and Subgrip.
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Mamiya C330S: Page 38

(9) Quick-Show Model 2
A two piece set in which one piece is attached to the camera and the other to the tripod. Power source: Eight AA-size When this is done, the camera can instantly be mounted to, or alkaline or rechargeable Niremoved from, a tripod without Cad batteries. the need to fumble with screws. (11) Electronic Flash Auto 480 Model 2 (10) Mamiyalite MZ 36R The Auto 480 Model 2 is an This grip-type auto electronic flash has a guide number of 36 automatic electronic flash which features superior bursts (ASA 100m); 28 when wideof light with a guide number of angle adapter is attached. 48 (with ASA 100, in meters), The head of unit can be swung superb flashlight delivery upward 90 and rotated almost characteristics and three f-stop value settings. one full turn, so bounce flash operation on auto is possible. You can select three different apertures and the flash unit automatically controls flash intensity according to the subject distance. In addition, you can select on of five different flash intensities for your purpose, so it is highly convenient for close-up work and daylight synchro flash.

4' 41/2" 4' 71/2" 4' 41/2" 4' 73/4" 4' 33/4" 4' 81/2" 4' 3" 4' 91/2" 4' 2" 4' 11" 4'1/4" 5' 11/2" 3' 101/2" 5' 5" 3' 73/4" 5' 113/4"
3' 11" 4' 1" 3' 103/4" 4' 11/4" 3' 101/4" 4' 13/4" 3' 93/4" 4' 23/4" 3' 83/4" 4'33/4" 3' 71/2" 4' 51/2" 3' 6" 4' 8" 3' 4" 4' 3/4"
2' 1115/32" 3' 9/16" 2' 1113/32" 3' 5/8" 2' 115/32" 3' 7/8" 2' 1013/16" 3' 19/32" 2' 1013/32" 3' 125/32" 2' 923/32" 3' 211/16" 2' 815/16" 3' 325/32" 2' 73/4" 3' 527/32"
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Mamiya C330S: Page 41

Depth of Field Tables (cont.)
159' 31/2" 128' 3/4" 89' 83/4" 65' 4" 45' 1/4" 32' 10" 22' 8" 16' 21/2" 25' 43/4" 36' 8" 24' 53/4" 38' 91/4" 22' 81/2" 44' 41/4" 20' 93/4" 54' 11/4" 18' 31/2" 85' 63/4" 15' 113/4" 286 21/4" 13' 21/2" 10' 91/2"
13' 91/2" 16' 51/4" 13' 61/2" 16' 10" 13' 17' 9" 12' 41/2" 19' 1" 11' 53/4" 21' 91/2" 10' 63/4" 26' 31/2" 9' 33/4" 40' 23/4" 8' 1" 132' 8"
9' 53/4" 10' 7" 9' 41/4" 10' 9" 9' 11/4" 11' 11/4" 8' 93/4" 11' 9" 8' 41/4" 12' 53/4" 7' 101/2" 13' 91/4" 7' 21/4" 16' 8" 6' 53/4" 23' 1/2"
6' 9" 7' 31/4" 6' 81/4" 7' 4" 6' 7" 7' 53/4" 6' 51/4" 7' 81/4" 6' 21/2" 8' 3/4" 5' 111/4" 8' 61/2" 5' 63/4" 9' 6" 5' 13/4" 11' 2"
5' 10" 6' 21/4" 5' 91/2" 6' 23/4" 5' 81/4" 6' 4" 5' 7" 6' 5 ?" 5' 5" 6' 83/4" 5' 23/4" 7' 3/4" 4' 111/4" 7' 8" 4' 71/2" 8' 81/4"
3' 111/4" 4' 3/4" 3' 11" 4' 1" 3' 101/2" 4' 11/2" 3' 10" 4' 21/4" 3' 91/4" 4' 31/4" 3' 81/4" 4' 41/2" 3' 63/4" 4' 7" 3' 5" 4' 101/2"
3' 51/2" 3' 61/2" 3' 51/4" 3' 63/4" 3' 5" 3' 7" 3' 41/2" 3' 71/2" 3' 4" 3' 81/4" 3' 31/4" 3' 91/4" 3' 21/4" 3' 103/4" 3' 3/4" 4' 33/4"
2' 111/2" 3' 1/2" 2' 111/2" 3' 1/2" 2' 111/4" 3' 3/4" 2' 11" 3' 1" 2' 103/4" 3' 11/2" 2' 101/4" 3' 2" 2' 91/4" 3' 31/4" 2' 81/2" 3' 43/4"

Mamiya TLR System Summary

Compiled by

Graham Patterson (G.A.Patterson [at btinternet.com]) This release dated: 02 January 2006 This compilation is Copyright G.A.Patterson 1997-2005. Cited inclusions are the copyright of the authors and are used with permission. The copyright and content of sites linked from this compilation is the responsibility of the maintainer of that site. Distribution for profit is expressly forbidden. Quotations from this site are subject to fair use restrictions, and must be attributed. The use of quoted material or links to this site do not constitute an endorsement by the compiler of this document or its contributors.

Problems?

For a collection of notes about common problems, see Section 16.

Wanted! :

Some evidence is coming to light that C330 cameras (maybe others) were made in Manaus, Brazil. It would be really interesting to know dates, which models, where they were sold, and any local variations. Examples of the two-letter code stickers found on lenses and inside film chambers are welcome. Especially if the original purchase date is known. The initial few letters or digits of serial numbers would also be useful (1234xxx is fine, for example).

Recent history:

Changes since June 2005: More letter codes. Changes since January 2005: Mounting hand meters to the flash shoe (Section 9.7), Section 1.14 on Brazilian Mamiyas added. Update on the 80mmS. Updated information on the Mamiyaflex-PF in section 1.13.

Old history:

Changes in 2004: Long-roll conversions. (Section 9.6); corrected web link in the on-line references; more letter codes; example serial number tabulation. Changes since February 2003: Details on Seikosha-MX, -SLV, and S shutters expanded. More information on letter codes. More information on the C33/Ccapability and development. Added link to C2 manual on the Web. Changes since December 2002: Note on C330/C330f screen adjustment in section 7.1 Changes since October 2002: Revised Paramender details. Changes since September 2002: Added Section 6.7 on crank adapters for the film advance knob on early models. Changes since May 2002: Corrected 330s removable back details. Changes since December 2001: Added a notice about citation and reuse. Changes since February 2001: Changed to a more up to date version of Rich Text Format and RTFtoHTML conversion. This has changed the core file names. It has also required extensive modification to the embedded URLs. To avoid broken reference links, the old files will be converted to redirections to the new main page. Third party accessories section 9 expanded to include one off modifications. Added section 9.4 on Other finders to note a custom 45 degree prism fitting. Extensive new information on Single Exposure Backs. This site has been referenced (without endorsement) on the Mamiya America web site, and in the current McBrooms Camera Blue Book. Added a note about MACO 820c infra-red film to section 2.10. Added illustration of C330s strap lug. Added link to DIY Paramender project. Included specific notes about citation in active auctions. Added comments on the antireflection material in the film box. Changes since January 21st 2001: Corrected error that miss-rendered the exposure compensation table. Added new letter codes to the dating section, and provided a new tabulation. Changes since June 2000: Which lenses were marked with centimetre focal lengths? More Mamiyaflex information. The sportsfinder mask PostScript program has been converted to Adobe Portable Document Format (PDF). Mamiya TLR Summary 1

Focusing

All models use a rack and pinion focus bellows system providing around 56mm extension. The effective extension depends on the initial amount required for infinity focus with individual lenses. Note that this is a twin bellows; the viewing and taking sections are separated by an internal baffle. The distance scales apparently measure from the film plane. In the case of the C330 this lies approximately 8mm forward of the camera back. There is no reference mark.

Focus scale plates

The original Mamiyaflex focusing scales ( jpg/cscales.jpg ) were superceded on other early models up to the C33, and including the C220 and C220f, by engraved plates mounted on the bellows mounting frame. The selection of lens focal lengths on these plates does vary between models, and even between examples of the same model. Some of these plates may be a retro-fit to enable the use of later lenses.

Multi-exposure function

The multi-exposure control on the camera only serves to disengage the multiple exposure prevention facility and not the film advance. This allows the shutter release(s) to operate repeatedly if the shutter is cocked manually on the second and subsequent exposure. This is unlike most other cameras where the wind-on stroke cocks the shutter without moving the film. The sequence is to expose the first frame, switch to Multi, manually re-cock the shutter and use the normal shutter release to make a subsequent exposure. Reset the control to Single, and advance the film in the usual manner. It is also possible to achive the same effect by manually tripping the lever on the shutter, but it isnt as convenient to reach as the standard shutter release.

Shutter idiosyncrasies

Some cameras are sensitive to 'first pressure' on the shutter release. This appears to trip the double exposure mechanism without affecting the shutter. This behaviour may reflect the wear that the body has received. There are work-arounds involving the multiexposure control or manual triggering of the shutter, but it is best to be decisive about making the exposure. A similar problem can arise with certain lenses that permit the shutter trip lever to move even if the lens is not cocked. There is a 'feature' of the interlock mechanism that can cause unexpected problems. Early 120 colour film was often sold in 6 exposure lengths. This may have been due to either cost or the physical thickness of the film base and emulsion. In order to wind off the film without going through a further 6 blank frames, the shutter release is held down on the first extra frame while the film is wound off. The most likely use for this 'feature' is to allow an early film change when working with action subjects. It can be a danger, as one or two users have discovered when using a locking cable release or auxiliary timer! Also see section 11.7. Mamiya TLR Summary 4

Dates of manufacture Weight (body) Film advance Shutter cocking Shutter releases Parallax compensation Exposure compensation 120/220 capability Lens focus scales
Interchangeable screens WLF type Flash shoe Removable back Multi-exposure Cable release Tripod screw Other idiosyncrasies
plates fitted to the lens rack on the left side. 1968 and later models may have additional scales for the 55mm and 250mm. A retrofit to accept the 55mm and 250mm lenses was available which differs from the C3/C22 version by not having 65mm and 80mm scales. These are handled by a moving scale in the camera body. No. Type 1 Cold, upper left side Yes, sheet film option, two sprung pin latches, as C3 Yes Conical thread socket on lens panel frame 1 /4" Textured rubber covering, change to black focus knobs. The crank should be reverse wound back to the rest position after each frame advance (Compare with C330 models). Evidence from a Mamiya repair manual for the C33 shows that this camera was under aggressive development during 1965/1966. There are a number of detail differences internally. 120-only versions have the film start mark at the upper left of the film gate (as with the C3 and earlier models). 220 versions have the mark at the lower left side.
3/1966 - 1968 (?) 1480 Knob with optional accessory crank, double exposure prevention Manual Single, side mounted Scale Scale Optional 220 back (as C33 1.12) for most cameras without modification Main scale on left side of focus rack. Expanded scale for 65mm and 80mm on right side of focus rack. A retrofit to accept the 55mm and 250mm lenses was available. This includes the 65mm and 80mm scale not seen on the C33 version. No Type 1, single flap. Cold, left side of body Yes Only by direct manipulation of the shutter Yes, top right of lens panel frame 1 /4" ? Textured rubber covering. Accepts the first model of sheet film back. Some of the earliest C22 cameras were not 220-capable probably items made prior to March 1966. 120-only versions have the film start mark at the upper left of the film gate (as with the C3 and earlier models). 220 versions have the mark at the lower left side.
4/1968 - ? 1150 Knob, with fold-out crank Manual Single, side, plastic tab, not lockable Via focus scale / exposure compensation scale and two reference lines on focusing screen Scale (55-65mm, 80mm, 105-135mm, 180-250mm) Yes; rotating pressure plate and manual setting of frame counter range 55, 65, 80, 105, 135, 180, 250mm. Some examples have both 105mm scales. No Type 1 (220 form, with 80mm sportfinder) Cold, when present. Not all bodies were so equiped. No Mamiya TLR Summary 7

Mamiya TLR Summary 10

Lens hoods
The lens hood diameter refers to the square clamp-fit Mamiya hoods. They will only fit over slimline filters. Conventional screw-fit hoods of suitable dimensions may be used in the filter thread. The Mamiya hoods are of two basic designs. The first design, used for the 55mm, 65mm, 180mm, and 250mm were square with the upper flap hinged at the front. This permitted the angle of the top flap to be set so that glare from the top of the hood was invisible in the finder. The hoods for the 80mm, 105mm, and 135mm lenses were of a circular changing to square aperture rigid type. The 80mm and 105mm chrome lenses used 42mm hoods, the 80mm and 105mm black, and both 135mm lenses used the 48mm hood. All the 180mm and the 250mm lenses used the same hood. These hoods are generally metal. There is also a telephoto lens hood for the chrome series that consists of two rigid square shades in a single plastic unit. (Compiler's Note: This item is huge!)

Optical design

There was a change in physical and optical design between the chrome and black series lenses. One known effect is that the 105mm D and DS lenses have a different back focus from the 105mm chrome and the early 105mm black. This means that the scale on the C330 and earlier bodies is incorrect for the later lenses. The C330s (and probably most C330f) have scales for both 105mm lenses. It should also be noted that earlier bodies do not have scales for the focal lengths introduced later. The lenses will function, however. The 180mm (black) and 180mm Super (black) are different optical designs, but appear to share the same back focus.

Lens coating

This is a contentious issue, probably stemming from a lack of understanding of lens coating in general. Lens coating has been common since the Second World War, initially as general single coating, then as single coating tailored to individual lens performance, and most recently coating of internal elements and multiple coating for optimum corrections. Coating is used to reduce reflection from the surface that contributes to flare and lack of contrast. It also helps compensate for minor variations in glass batches, and in multi-coating the performance over a range of wavelengths is made more consistent. The chrome lenses were single coated, and the black series had single coatings which may have extended to various lens elements. Some late black series lenses have had multi-coating, but there is a lack of substantive evidence as to when it was introduced, and on which lenses. The 55mm, 80mm S, 105mm DS, and 180mm Super are the most likely candidates, as these were later or more extreme designs. Even the best of these lenses wont have the class of coatings that appeared in the 1990s.

Dating lenses (and bodies and accessories)
Mamiya claim not to have any dating information based on serial numbers. It has been suggested that lenses can be dated (for black models at least) by the gold two-letter stickers that sometimes survive. These are not the JCxxx series stickers that are found on all new Japanese exported equipment. The two-letter stickers do not appear to have been used on chrome series lenses. New information suggests that letter code series apply to individual items. So code AA would mean a different year/month on a C330 and a C220, for example. Since this equipment isn't new, the amount of wear and tear is probably more important than chronological age so far as practical use is concerned. For the curious: Example two-letter codes carried by black series lenses, cameras, and accessories Item Codes Body / lens serial prefixes C330s KH None, or l, W C330f BC, GC, GJ, ID, EK, FA D, none C220f C330 BD, BE, CD AA, AG, BG, BJ, CC, JK, JB (1982) (sticker inside film chamber), IL, IK HK, DG, DI, HF EI, EK, FA, FC, GC, GF, GJ DI, DK BL, DI, IJ, CL AH, AE GC AA (round), AG, AI, AK, FH, DC, DH, DL, IK, JA, CA, CF, CH, CI, CL, CK, ED, EG, HB, GE, HC, EK, FD, JE, JF, JK (round) W D Production (see note) FA=0107xxx BC=D150xxx D140xxx JB=Late? 1974/5 serials=D457xx & D267xx , BJ D635xx, AG=?47xxx, CC=0718xx,70s HF=B964xx FA seen in body purchased c. May 1966 FC=261xxx Probably 1966 or later
C220 C33 C22 (220 capable) Pentaprism CdS Magnifying Hood CdS Porrofinder 55mm
B H (some with R suffix) None known

501xx, 519xx

65mm 80mm
AI, BG, BI, CA, CF, CK, EA, EC, JG, HC, HI, ?K, DJ, FF AC, AD, AI, BC, BD, BF, BJ, BK, JL, EB, EL, FD, HA, HI, ID, IE, JE, FC, DB, DC, DI, CB, CE, CH, CI, CF, IF, II, GI
57892xx 7524xx, 6613xx 6605xx
FH=Late, CF=1985, AA=439xx, AK=1974/5? serials 501xx & 519xx, CI=non-blue (early 80s) DH=non-blue 735xx, JA=355xx, CA=non-blue,103xxx CK=66xxx, JK=422xx,425xx JE=377xx,378xx, no insert, no click stops, CH=634xx,631xx FD=803xx,805xx BG=57892xx , FF=not blue, has click-stops, AI=5789xxx AC=943000,late BC=105xx, BD=121xx, BF=Middle, AI=Late, JL Unexamined, AD=1969, EL=Late, CE=7524xx, 80mm 1974/5? serials=6605xx & 6613xx, HI (9200xx), CB=blue Mamiya TLR Summary 12

C22 C330

C220 C330f C220f C330s

1982 1983

1983 1984

1984 1985

1985 1986

1986 1987

1987 1988

1989 1990

1990 1991

1991 1992

1992 1993

1993 1994

Mamiya TLR Summary 19
55mm 65mm 80mm 80mm S 105mm 105mm D 105mm DS 135mm 180mm 180mm Super 250mm

? ? 1970?

? 1967 1968

? 1969

? 1970

? 1971

? 1972

? 1973

? 1974

? 1975

? 1978

Mamiya TLR Summary 20

Focal length comparison
Table of 35mm format equivalent focal lengths for the lenses in the TLR range (after Scott, with permission) 6x6 cm Largest Largest Largest Largest Square 5x4 (10x8) 11x14 2x3 (35mm) 163 The focal lengths in the body of the table are the 35mm lenses required to produce an identical image in a given final format with minimum cropping. In other words, to get a square print covering the same area as the 55mm Mamiya lens you would need a 24mm on 35mm format, while cropping a 2x3 area from the Mamiya negative would give the same rendition as a 36mm lens on 35mm format. This table is derived from original work by Ed Scott for photo.net ( http://photo.net/). Please see this link for a more general table and an explanation of the method used to derive these values.

Filters

2.8.1 Plain
Standard screw fit filters may be used, but the 49mm threaded lenses are very close together, which may make it impossible to fit filters on both lenses. Mamiya made special slim-mount filters for this purpose, but they do not seem to be readily available short of special order. The local Mamiya distributor may be able to help. Standard filters may also cause problems with the Mamiya clamp-fit lens hoods. It is possible to file a flat on a UV or haze filter to improve clearance if it is going to be a permanent fitting on the viewing lens. Obviously the filter mount should be marked and then de-mounted from the lens before filing it! An alternative for the viewing lens is to use one of the chrome protective rings to retain a bare UV or skylight filter directly on the lens. This requires dismantling a standard filter unless you can obtain an unmounted glass. Some users have found that filters can be mounted inside the larger square Mamiya lens hoods. This is done by cementing an old filter mount to the inside (usually after the original mounting thread has been filed flat and the old glass removed) and using it as a threaded mount. Since old or scratched filters can be utilised for the mount this is an economic approach. In use the filter of choice is screwed to the new mount inside the hood. Obviously the maximum filter size that can be used in this manner depends on the hood size and the slimness of ones fingers!

Polarising

Most of the same restrictions about fitting plain filters applies to polarising filters. Perhaps more so, since these tend to have physically larger mounts. The common method is to preview the effect by eye, or on the viewing lens, and note the position of the mount (You need a mount marked in increments to do this - you can add your own). The filter is then installed on the taking lens and set to the same orientation. In theory, you could mount two identical polarisers in common alignment and wrap an elastic band around the rotating rims. Rotating one would move the other in synchonisation. But the physical proximity of the lenses means youd have to use 46mm polarisers. And a circular lens hood! Linear polarisers are perfectly adequate for these cameras. The circular versions are intended for cameras with through the lens metering which use an optical system that is itself polarising.

Graduated

It is difficult to preview the effect on the viewing lens and then transfer it to the taking lens, but possible. Unless you are using a 105mm D/DS lens you cannot preview the effect of stopping down. There was a sliding mount designed for the Cokin P series, but this does not appear to be still available. See section 9.2 for the reference. Mamiya TLR Summary 21

Self-timers

None of the Mamiya TLR cameras have self-timers on the body. Only the 105mm DS lens has a V setting for delayed release. The only other options are to use an air release, or to try and track down a cable release mount accessory timer (usually clockwork).

Infra-red focusing

These cameras do not include infra-red focusing scales. Just how crucial this is will depend on your application. Infra-red film varies in its degree of sensitivity. Certainly Konica 750 and Ilford SFX have a closer sensitivity to visible light than Kodaks (35mm) offering. False colour infra-red film has to include some visible light, otherwise you do not get a full range of colours. The focus scales are comparatively crude, so a precise adjustment is not practical, or at least hardly repeatable. Unless working at close distances or at wide apertures the correction can probably be ignored. Should highly infra-red sensitive emulsions become available (see below), then experimentation with each lens would be advisable. The cameras are probably infra-red safe with current emulsions. The biggest risk would come from an extended bellows, so it might be wise to retract the bellows (or close the internal baffle) when not actively photographing. The new MACO 820c infra-red emulsion falls between the Kodak HIE and Konica 750 offerings. This is a true infra-red film (development should be in a metal or foil-shielded tank, for example), and should be treated with caution. The recommended focus adjustment is an increased extension of 1/100th of the focal length of the lens, or about 0.5mm for the 55mm, and 2.5mm for the 250mm lenses. This sort of correction is actually easier to implement on the rack and pinion bellows focusing of the Mamiyas than on helical mount lenses. Compilers Note: If any reader has practical experience of infra-red with these cameras, Id be pleased to include it here.

Focusing discrepancies

There are reports of lenses that do not provide sharp images on the film, even though carefully focused. This may mean that the lens pair is out of adjustment, but there are several alternative explanations. These are, in approximate order of increasing severity:

2.11.1 Wrong film

Using 220 film in a camera configured for 120 will cause focus errors, as the pressure plate is set for a thicker film and backing paper combination. You will probably have a strange starting position for the first frame, as the leader length on the two types is different.
2.11.2 Back incorrectly latched
The backs on these cameras are quite flexible, and must be closed using even pressure on both top corners. Otherwise the back may not latch correctly on both sides. This prevents the pressure plate from applying even pressure across the whole frame.
2.11.3 Incorrectly mounted focusing screen / wrong magnifier correction
Some screens can be disassembled when removed. If they are reassembled with the glass upside down, the focus is wrong. Demountable screens should be correctly fitted, though this is a gross error that should be easily spotted. Fixed screens are sometimes shimmed to adjust their height. Remove them only if necessary and with extreme care. The C330, f, and s are designed with replaceable screens. The flip-up magnifiers and eyepiece correction lenses should be a reasonable match for your eye (with or without correction as applicable).
2.11.4 Incorrectly mounted lens
It is just possible to mount the lens unevenly on the lens panel, but it is unlikely that the auto-cocking feature on later models would work.
2.11.5 Distorted lens panel
If the lens panel isnt parallel to the film plane and at right angles to the focus screen, then an error will occur. These are tough cameras, so youd probably need to drop it to cause this fault. (Not advised.)
2.11.6 Lens pair maladjusted
It does happen, often because the retaining rings are loosened and spacing shims drop out. This is a pain to adjust, so touch the lens as a last resort.

Mamiya TLR Summary 22

3 3.0 3.0.1
Chrome series lenses Introduction Seikosha-MX shutter
The first series of lenses had Seikosha-MX shutters with a speed range of 1 1/400th second. This was the usual 1, , 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/200, 1/400 step series. In common with a number of early leaf shutter designs the fastest speed can only be set with the shutter uncocked. The lens range was 65mm, 80mm (f2.8 only), 105mm, and 135mm. The optical construction is believed to be that same as the second chrome series, but this is unverified. Spares for these lenses are not easy to obtain due to their age and small production run. The shutter release is short and curved compared to later lenses, and the shutter cocking lever is smaller than that on the Seikosha-S shutters. The shutter cocking stroke is 67 degrees 30 minutes which is much less than the 112 degree 30 minute stroke of the later bodies. The M and X synchronisation lever looks like a miniature shutter cocking lever rather than the small projection used on the later lenses. It usually has a red insert in the end of the lever. The 80mm f2.8 is marked f=8cm. At least one example has a 7 digit number on the shutter body in addition to the normal lens numbers. Some (if not all) 135mm lenses were marked as 13.5cm. On one example the bottom of the lens mounting flange bears the text Made in Japan in white. Sales period December 1956 to March 1959.

Parallax compensation

A distinction must be drawn between parallax compensation, and parallax correction. The Mamiya lenses have the viewing and taking lenses displaced by 50mm. This means that they see slightly different views. In practice this means that the top of the frame of the viewing lens is also 50mm higher than the top of the taking frame. At distances over a metre or so, this has negligible effect. At closer distances, where the field of view may be as little as 65mm across, a 50mm discrepancy is over half a frame. Parallax compensation demands that the image is framed, and then the alignment of the camera is adjusted by tilting the camera upwards. In the case of the cameras with viewfinder scales, the scale line determined by the exposure compensation should be aligned with that portion of the image which lay at the top of the screen during framing. With the C33 etc. this is the moving bar, on other models it is the line representing the 1.5x and 2x exposure compensation. Because the taking lens was not on the same axis as the viewing lens, the spatial relationship of elements in a three dimensional subject will change. If precise control over this alignment within the subject is required, parallax correction is required.

Parallax correction

The aim of parallax correction is simple. Move the camera until the taking lens is in the position occupied by the viewing lens without changing the angle of the camera. This can be done using a tripod with an adjustable centre column, though you are limited to keeping the camera back parallel to the column axis. Failing to do this means that the taking lens does not obtain the same angle and distance from the subject. Tripods with an angled column (such as the Benbo) will eliminate this problem. The Paramender (See 6.1) provides the precise 50mm displacement required. Mamiya TLR Summary 29

Lens performance

The most recent comprehensive lens tests available were done by Tim Brown, and can be found at the http://www.photo.net/bboard/qand-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=0005l3&topic_id=35&topic=Medium%20Format%20Digest Mamiya TLR lens tests.
Accessories - Mamiya Introduction
This isn't an exhaustive list. Various flash brackets have been ignored, for example. See Section 9 for third party (commercial) accessories and personal modifications.

Paramender

Basically this just a device to shift the lens axes by 50mm to correct for parallax error. Similar to a cranked tripod column, but effective with tripod heads at any angle. A probable prototype for the Paramender that would fit the Mamiyaflex has been seen. The difference is in the smaller camera platform and what appears to be a removable/convertible tripod bush. At least one home built paramender project has been done. See http://www.btinternet.com/~jrbham/paramender/index.html.

Polaroid film

The film backs are for cut sheet film, and do not accept Polaroid film. Given the location of the film plane relative to the camera back, it might be possible to manufacture a fibre-optic type back, but the cost would be more than an entire camera outfit. Because the cameras do not have mid-roll film exchange (a function of magazine backs), it would still be necessary to have two bodies. There are two known examples of user modifications to accept a fixed Polaroid back, at the expense of infinity focus with shorter focal lengths. See the C330f Polaroid description (http://CameraQuest.com/m330pol.htm). A project to develop a removable back for a C33 body is being pursued using a spare back. This version works with longer focal lengths if a manual focus plane adjustment is used. Details will be added as they come available.
Accessories and Conversions - Third-party and adaptations Beattie focusing screens
Known to have been manufactured for the C220, C330, C330f, and C330s models. It is understood that they do not have the exposure compensation scale (see section 6.4 for a finder insert), though potential purchasers are advised to confirm this with the manufacturer.

Cokin filter mount

A mounting for Cokin P series filters has been designed. For further information see Photon magazine (http://www.photonpub.co.uk/photon/),) August 1996 issue (This site may be defunct or under re-construction (June 98) ? Icon Publications do not appear to be publishing Photon at this time.). At the time of writing the compiler of this summary has no personal knowledge of this item, or current availability. June 1998: The designer / manufacturer does not appear to be reachable.

9.3 9.4

Brightscreens Other finders
Screens are listed for the C330, C330f, and C330s. See http://www.brightscreen.com/ (http://www.brightscreen.com/) for details.
At least one example is known of a C330 with a 45 degree prism (a Kiev 88 part?) fitted. It appears to have been a permanent fixture to the focusing screen. 45 degree prism finder (jpg/45pfind.jpg). A commercial implementation of this idea can be seen at the Kiev prism conversion at Baierfoto (http://www.baierfoto.de/mameng.html). This company offers custom adapted 45 degree prisms in both metered and non-metered versions. It is also removable. The 45 degree angle of the eyepiece makes these finders something between a chimney and a conventional pentaprism in use. Keeping the camera at chest height should improve stability and handling compared to the pentaprism for most people.

Mamiya TLR Summary 35

9.5 9.6
Maxwell screens Long roll Mamiyaflexes
Alternative screens can be obtained from Maxwell Precision Optics, (404) 244-0095 (United States of America).
At least two of these are known to exist. They consist of a large film magazine to hold 70mm (?) film mated to a Mamiya TLR body. The lens in both examples was a 135mm, and one had a self-cocking shutter installed. The film is motor-driven through the camera. These appear to be non-commercial conversions. The nearest similar equipment would be the Hulcher cameras and some of the military bomb-bay cameras. These could take 100 feet of film and expose at around 8-10 frames per second. About 480 frames in under one minute. The Mamiya conversions would appear to be similar. The TLR design would be a good choice most of the advantages of a single lens reflex, but no mirror to move.
Sekonic L-208 light meter mounting
This is a nice item about mounting the basic Sekonic L-208 lightmeter to a Mamiya TLR using the meters supplied flash shoe foot. The article at http://silvergrain.org/Photo-Tech/TLR-meter.html also discusses the Gossen Digisix and Cosina VC meters.

10 10.0

Data Tables Introduction
Note that you will require a browser with table-handling capabilities to make much sense of this section. The general Depth of Field tables have been calculated with a circle of confusion of 0.04578mm. This is the 1/1730 of the format diagonal as used by Sinar, amongst others. It is slightly smaller than the common 0.06 or 0.075 mm value. The close-up tables have been calculated to the finer tolerance of 0.0254mm. In the Depth of Field Tables, 'Infinity' was calculated at 2,200 feet. This somewhat arbitrary figure was dictated by the 250mm lens. The total depth of field section of each table reports infinity where the further limit is undefined. No correction for nodal position has been attempted, so these tables should be verified by experiment before undertaking critical work. Depth forward of plane of focus = c x A x s x (s - f) _______________________ f x f + c x A x (s - f) Depth behind plane of focus = c x A x s x (s - f) _______________________ f x f - c x A x (s - f) where c is the circle of confusion, A is the aperture stop, f is the focal length, s is the subject distance. For a complete description of this formula, see the page on http://oh114.wpi.edu/~nsushkin/dof.htmlDepth of Field Calculation by Nicholas Sushkin. There are alternative formulae available, however at present these tables seem sufficiently accurate for practical work, given the limited precision of the camera focus scales. These formulae do not appear to take diffraction into account. Diffraction has the effect of increasing the Circle of Confusion at small physical apertures, and reducing effective depth of field. Note that the Close-up Tables are taken from the reference cited, and are (probably) not obtained using these formulae. [Compiler's Note: The tables are in Feet and Inches for purely selfish reasons - that's how my camera is calibrated! For those who prefer something less cumbersome than tables, I have produced a program that draws a Depth of Field Calculator (calc1.ps) using the formulae given above. The prototype looks promising. It takes the form of a double-sided dial calculator with the three widest lenses on one side, and the four longer lenses on the other. It is produced using a PostScript program with either a PostScript printer or a suitable interpreter and printer combination, and the images stuck to card or plastic discs. It is 12cm in diameter (Compact Disc size), which is a compromise between resolution and compactness. And yes, it can be modified for any focal length and circle of confusion, within reason. An alternative version of the calc1.pdf in PDF is also available. For an alternative depth of field calculator that uses 0.06mm circle of confusion for 6x6, see the http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/brondof.html Javascript DOF calculator on the Bronica pages.

Mamiya TLR Summary 36

Close-up Depth of Field Tables
At close distances, depth of field is a function of magnification, rather than focal length. These tables are applicable to all lenses capable of these reproduction ratios. 0.001in. is approximately 0.0254mm. Depth of Field in Inches and decimal fractions for scale of reproduction (after Reynolds) Aperture 0.1 0.17 0.25 0.5 (1:2) 1 (1:1) (1:10) (1:6) (1:4) 0.31 0.12 0.056 0.017 0.0056 f2.8 0.44 0.17 0.08 0.024 0.008 f4 0.62 0.23 0.11 0.034 0.011 f5.6 0.88 0.34 0.16 0.048 0.016 f8 1.21 0.46 0.22 0.066 0.022 f11 1.76 0.67 0.32 0.096 0.032 f16 2.42 0.92 0.44 0.13 0.044 f22 3.5 1.34 0.64 0.19 0.064 f32 4.9 1.90 0.90 0.27 0.090 f45 Circle of Confusion 0.001 in. Values given are the field in front or behind the plane of focus. Double them for total field. Depth of Field in Millimetres for scale of reproduction (after Reynolds) Aperture 0.1 (1:10) 0.17 (1:6) 0.25 (1:4) 0.5 (1:2) 1 (1:1) 7.1.4 0.425 0.14 f2.4.0.6 0.2 f4 15.5 5.75 2.75 0.85 0.275 f5.8.1.2 0.4 f8 30.25 11.5 5.5 1.65 0.55 f16.2.4 0.8 f16 60.11 3.25 1.1 f22 87.5 33.4.75 1.6 f32 122.5 47.5 22.5 6.75 2.25 f45 Circle of Confusion 0.001 in. Values given are the field in front or behind the plane of focus. Double them for total field.

Mamiya TLR Summary 37

Near limit Ft
Depth of Field Table, 55mm
First Section: Near limit of acceptable focus, Second Section: Far limit of acceptable focus, Third Section: Total Depth of Field Values are in Feet and Inches.
2200 4.5 5.22 47' 3 38' 2 26' 10 19' 7 13' 6 9' 18' 14' 4 11' 11 9' 5 7' 11' 6 10' 10 9' 8 8' 7 7' 10 8' 7' 4 6' 8 5' 7 6' 2 5' 11 5' 7 5' 2 4' 8 4' 5' 4 5' 3 4' 11 4' 8 4' 2 3' 4' 7 4' 5 4' 3' 8 3' 3' 8 3' 8 3' 6 3' 4 3' 1 2' 6 3' 3 3' 3 3' 2' 10 2' 2' 10 2' 10 2' 9 2' 8 2' 6 2' 1' 11 1' 11 1' 10 1' 10 1' 9 1' 9 1' 8 1' 8 1' 8 1' 7 1' 7 1' 6 1' 6 1' 5 1' 5 1' 5 1' 4 1' 3 1' 3 1' 3 1' 2 1' 2 1' 2 1' ' 11 ' 11
Far limit Ft 4.5 Inf. 5.6 Inf. 8 Inf. 11 Inf. 16 Inf. 22 Inf. 78' 5 129' 5 Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. 15 21' 8 24' 12' 7 13' 5 15' 8 19' 11 36' 1 1623' 8' 2 8' 6 9' 4 10' 8 14' 1 22' 6' 10 7' 1 7' 8 8' 6 10' 6 14' 5' 7 5' 9 6' 1 6' 7 7' 9 9' 4' 4 4' 5 4' 8 4' 11 5' 7 6' 6 3' 9 3' 4' 2 4' 8 5' 3' 2 3' 3 3' 4 3' 6 3' 9 4' 2' 1 2' 1 2' 2 2' 2 2' 4 2' 5 1' 9 1' 10 1' 10 1' 10 1' 2' 1 1' 6 1' 7 1' 7 1' 7 1' 7 1' 8 1' 9 1' 3 1' 3 1' 3 1' 4 1' 4 1' 4 1' 1 1' 1 1' 1 1' 1
Total Depth of field Ft 4.5 Inf. 5.6 Inf. 8 Inf. 11 Inf. 16 Inf. 22 Inf. 59' 10 112' 6 Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. 15 10' 2 13' 5 23' 4 51' 4' 3 5' 5 8' 4 13' 2 30' 3 1618' 2 2' 6 3' 9 5' 6 9' 5 18' 1' 6 1' 10 2' 8 3' 10 6' 4 10' 1 1' 3 1' 10 2' 7 4' 1 6' ' 8 ' 10 1' 2 1' 7 2' 5 3' 6 ' 6 ' 7 ' 10 1' 3 1' 10 2' ' 4 ' 5 ' 8 ' 10 1' 4 1' ' 2 ' 2 ' 3 ' 4 ' 7 ' 9 1' 9 ' 1 ' 2 ' 2 ' 3 ' 5 ' 7 1' 6 ' 1 ' 1 ' 2 ' 2 ' 4 ' 5 1' 3 ' 1 ' 1 ' 1 ' 2 ' 2 ' 0 ' 1 ' 1 ' 1 ' 1 ' 2

538' 6 28' 10

14' 8 9' 10 6' 11 5' 11 14' 8 9' 10 6' 11 5' 11 14' 6 14' 13' 7 13' 2

9' 9 6' 11 5' 11 4' 11

9' 8 6' 10 5' 11 4' 11 3' 11 3' 6 9' 7 6' 10 5' 10 4' 11 3' 11 3' 5 9' 5 9' 2 6' 8 6' 7 6' 5

22 186' 10 95' 6 68

132 24' 10
5' 9 4' 10 3' 11 3' 5 2' 11 5' 8 4' 10 3' 11 3' 5 2' 11 5' 7 4' 9 3' 10 3' 4 2' 11
15' 4 10' 2 15' 5 10' 2 15' 6 10' 3 16' 1 10' 6 16' 8 10' 8 17' 6 11

33' 6 15' 10 10' 4

51' 4 18' 10 11' 6

4' 4 1' 10

Mamiya TLR Summary 45
Hyperfocal Distance Table
Hyperfocal Distance Table, for a Circle of Confusion of 0.04578mm. Values given in Feet and Inches. Note that not all combinations of apertures and focal lengths are possible with the lenses available. The zone of acceptable sharpness commences at approximately half the Hyperfocal Distance. So for the 250mm at f64 focused at 70 2", the zone starts at about 35'. As with depth of field, what constitutes 'sharp' varies between individuals. As was noted in the introduction to the Depth of Field tables, diffraction may be significant at the smallest apertures. The camera cannot be set to this precision! Ft 250 164' 3 2.4 3.5 - 4 4.11 5.6.64

11 11.0 11.1

User hints Introduction Weight
This section is for personal experiences, and any miscellaneous items not noted elsewhere.
The earlier models are heavy when compared to other 6x6 cm interchangeable lens cameras. However, comparing a typical 3-lens system shows a slightly different story: Table of system weights, typical 3 lens system Lens YashicaMat Bronica Hass.CF SQA (nonmetered) 50-60 *590 *680 75-90 (fixed) *490 *510 150*865 *Body 1105 *1010 *990 Total 1105 *2955 *3255 Mamiya 6 +335 +250 +480 +890 +1955 CCCC330s 640 *1340 2705
Weights are in grams. This is only a rough comparison. There are differences in maximum apertures, and the focal lengths are not exact matches. However, it suggests that there is little practical difference between the reflex models for a similar kit. The Mamiya 6 is a rangefinder model, the Bronica SQA and Hasselblad CF are single lens reflexes, and the YashicaMat is a fixed 80mm TLR. All are 6x6 cm format. * Estimated weight from published data. + Manufacturer's published data.