18. [ ] If it is desired to change volume to change spring rate, carefully remove circlip inside shaft and move to higher groove to increase spring rate, or lower groove to decrease spring rate.

Assembly

19. [ ] Replace all damaged O-rings and seals that were removed, then grease all O-rings. 20. [ ] Install compression shim, small washer, and then valve nut into piston. 21. [ ] AD-4 and AD-8 only: Slide seal head onto closed end of shaft, threaded-end first. AD-5 and AD-10 only: Install seal bushing (small end first) over closed end of shaft, then install lockring (knurled-end first) over closed end of shaft. 22. [ ] Secure eyelet end of shaft into vise (openend up). 23. [ ] AD-8 and AD-10 only: Inspect ramp housing inside shaft unit. It must be aligned with its center divider parallel to axis of holes for adjuster bolts. Push one adjuster bolt into its hole to see if tip of bolt appears inside ramp housing. If not, try rotating ramp housing 180.
Lockring Seal bushing Seal head LEGEND AD-4 AD-5 AD-8 AD-10
Compression adjusting rod Shaft Damping adjusters
Rebound adjusting rod Compression shim Compression cylinder Rebound valve Compression shim Piston

Ramp housing Circlip

Rebound adjuster ramp Compression adjuster ramp Circlip Volume adjusting plate Cylinder
38.1 Cane Creek AD-4, AD-5, AD-8, and AD-10 shocks.
In the next step, when the bolts with O-rings are inserted into the holes in the shaft, it is difficult not to damage the O-rings by catching them on the lips of the holes. Use a small chamfering tool to chamfer the holes and it will be no problem.
24. [ ] AD-8 and AD-10 only: Thread silver adjusting screw into hole marked C, and black adjusting screw into hole marked R, taking care not to deform or tear O-rings. Thread in bolts just until first calibration mark on smooth bolt shaft reaches the top of hole. 25. [ ] AD-4 and AD-5 only: Insert white plug into volume adjusting plate. AD-8 and AD-10 only: Grease blunt end of adjuster-rod assembly, mate valve adjuster ramps together, then install ramp assembly onto blunt end of adjuster-rod assembly. Insert assembly into ramp housing inside shaft so that slope of ramps face toward holes for valve adjusters. 26. [ ] Insert volume-adjusting plate into shaft, smooth-face up, until it seats fully. 27. [ ] AD-8 and AD-10 only: Place compression valve shim on top of valve adjusting rod, then place compression cylinder (notched end first) on top of compression valve shim. 28. [ ] Thread in and secure piston. 29. [ ] Grease inside of shock body with recommended grease, then carefully slide over piston. 30. [ ] Turn shock over and carefully grasp body eyelet in vise. 31. [ ] AD-4 and AD-8 only: Thread seal head into shock body as far as it will go (wrap with rubber band to improve grip). AD-5 and AD-10 only: Slide bushing seal as far as it will go into body, then slide lockring over seal bushing and thread it onto body (until lockring covers half of wire clip at end of body threads). 32. [ ] Inflate shock. Cover with soapy water to check for leaks.

Stacked elastomers

Skewered elastomers
38.3 Stacked elastomers (Comp and Pro XC) and skewered elastomers (SX) assemblies.
This section covers three models of forks: Comp, Pro XC, and SX. They are functionally identical, except that the SX model has an oil damper in the left leg. Servicing the SX oil damper is included in the MANITOU EFC/MACH 5 SX OIL DAMPERS section.

MANITOU MACH 5 FORKS

1. [ ] SX model only: Count number of turns it takes to turn each adjuster knob at top of stanchion to most counterclockwise position, then record here: Turns on left: _____ Turns on right: _____ 2. [ ] SX model only: Count number of turns it takes to turn each adjuster knob at bottom of left slider to most counterclockwise position, then record here: _____ 3. [ ] Disconnect front-brake cable. 4. [ ] Jiggle sliders to feel for free play that indicates bushings are worn. 5. [ ] Comp & Pro XC (either leg), & SX (right leg): Remove bolts on bottom ends of sliders. SX left leg only: Pull or pry knob out of cylinder at bottom of left slider, then use 8mm Allen wrench to unthread cylinder.

2 Thread out 1 Pull out

DISASSEMBLY
In some cases, the lower bushing may fall out of the slider effortlessly. If it does not, a custom bushing remover can be fabricated by grinding the threaded end of a spoke to a fine point and bending about 1/2" of the threaded end over, at a 90 angle. The pointed tip of the spoke can then be used to snag the bottom edge of the lower bushing.
15. [ ] Pull lower bushings out of sliders with custom bushing puller.
Bushing Bushing spacer Bushing
7. [ ] Note sequence of washers and elastomers in skewer stacks. _________________________________________ _________________________________________ _________________________________________ _________________________________________ _________________________________________ 8. [ ] Remove elastomers and washers from skewer shafts (or from top caps). 9. [ ] Pull slider assembly off ends of stanchions. 10. [ ] Pull dust boots off of stanchions. 11. [ ] Use 1/8" slotted screwdriver to deflect end of circlip in top of slider inward, then pry circlip out of slider. 12. [ ] Lift wiper seals out of tops of sliders. 13. [ ] Pull top bushings out of tops of sliders. 14. [ ] Pull bushing spacers out of sliders.
38.2 SX left leg damper-adjuster assembly.
6. [ ] Turn stanchion caps counterclockwise, to remove elastomer stacks from top of stanchion tubes.
38.4 Wiper seal and bushing assembly.
NOTE: To service damper of SX left leg, go to MANITOU MACH 5 SX OIL DAMPERS section (page 38-12) now. 16. [ ] Comp and Pro XC only: Pull keeper plate out of slot in black shaft that is protruding from end of stanchion tube. 17. [ ] Comp & Pro XC (either leg), & SX (right leg): Pull bumper(s) off black shaft.

A variety of elastomers with different durometers are available for these forks. Stiffer durometer elastomers will give the fork greater resistance to compression and offer faster rebound. The different elastomers can be combined in any way (both legs should match), as long as the original elastomer stack length is maintained. The adjuster knobs at the tops of the stanchions must be threaded out of the stanchions to adjust the pre-load. Once the knobs are out, the plunger on the bottom of the knob can be pulled out. The clip can be

Changing elastomers

Adjusting Comp and Pro XC pre-load
moved to different slots to change the pre-load. When the clip is moved further up, the pre-load is increased, and decreased when the clip is moved further down.
The oil damper is built into the left stanchion tube on SX models. The damper can be replaced as a whole by replacing the stanchion, or the damper can be serviced by disassembling the stanchion assembly.
MANITOU MACH 5 SX OIL DAMPERS

Keeper plate

38.6 To change the pre-load adjustment on the Comp and Pro XC models, move the keeper plate to a different slot.
The adjuster knobs at the tops of the sliders can be turned to change the effective spring stiffness. Turning the knobs clockwise increases spring stiffness and turning the knobs counterclockwise decreases spring stiffness. The adjusting knob on the bottom of the left slider primarily adjusts rebound damping but compression damping will be increased slightly whenever rebound damping is increased significantly. Turning the knob counterclockwise decreases rebound damping and turning the knob clockwise increases rebound damping. See MANITOU MACH 5 SX OIL DAMPERS(immediately following this section) for damper service. Oil weight affects the damping rate. The weight of the oil affects both the compression and rebound damping. Heavier-weight oils increase the damping effect (retarding compression and rebound); lighterweight oils decrease the damping effect (speeding up compression and rebound). Oil weight also might be varied to compensate for weather conditions, with very light-weight oils being used for extreme-cold conditions. See MANITOU MACH 5 SX OIL DAMPERS(immediately following this section) for damper service.

Adjusting SX pre-load

1. [ ] Use DISASSEMBLY steps 115 of MANITOU MACH 5 FORKS (page 38-10) to access oil damper. 2. [ ] Remove left stanchion assembly from fork crown. 3. [ ] Prepare to catch ball bearing that is trapped under elastomer on end of shaft, then carefully remove elastomer from shaft. 4. [ ] With stanchion held upside down, carefully unthread seal-head with large hex fitting on bottom end of stanchion, then pull seal-head a few millimeters away from stanchion.

cedures and examining the features on the fork, it should be possible to determine which alternate procedure is appropriate.
Marzocchi makes two tools for servicing this fork, specifically for bushing and seal removal and installation. These are the Slider Protector #536003AB and the Seal Press #R5068. In addition, two sizes of sockets are needed for the top caps. Due to the low profile of the wrench flats on the top caps, it is necessary to custom grind the ends of the sockets to eliminate any internal bevel. The socket sizes are 21mm and 26mm. RockShox Dropout Vise Blocks #70107 are very useful for securing the sliders in the vise with minimal chance of cosmetic or structural damage. The dropout vise blocks only work on models that fit a standard quick-release hub. An alternative is to put a dummy axle set into the dropouts, clamp the axle set directly into the vise jaws, then attach the fork to the axle set. One more alternative is to use a fork mount such as those used for securing a bike in the bed of a pickup truck.
Top-cap and spring removal
1. [ ] Remove brake calipers and cable system from fork. 2. [ ] External pre-load models: Counting number of turns, turn pre-load adjuster knobs fully in direction and record number of turns here: right _______ left _______ Hidden pre-load models: Remove rubber cap (if any), or unthread cap with 4mm Allen fitting from stanchion cap, then use 4mm Allen to turn pre-load adjuster. Counting number of turns, turn pre-load adjuster fully counterclockwise (until it reaches top of stanchion cap) and record number of turns here: right _______ left _______ 3. [ ] All external pre-load models except 00 Z3 BAM 80: Remove circlips from grooves in stanchion caps (just above top of fork crown). 4. [ ] Models with removable stanchions: Remove crown bolts, then remove stanchions from crown. 5. [ ] 00 Z5 only: Depress top cap slightly, then remove internal snap-ring. Cautionspring may eject top cap suddenly. Do not stand directly over stanchion!
6. [ ] If stanchions have been removed and top caps are still in place: Clamp stanchion tube in bike-stand clamp, then unthread stanchion cap from stanchion. All others: Unthread stanchion caps. 7. [ ] Remove aluminum sleeves (if any), washers, and springs from inside of stanchions. 8. [ ] Carefully drain old oil into waste receptacles, pumping stanchions to drain out oil.

Marzocchi made three basic types of forks during this period. The most basic type is a simple coil spring with non-adjustable oil damping, which is covered in MARZOCCHI 9900 FORKS-COIL & OILDAMPER TYPES (page 38-19). Another type has coil springs but adjustable oil damping. One or two slotted rods protruding out the top caps identifies a fork as belonging to this type. These are covered in MARZOCCHI 9700 FORKS-COIL & ADJUSTABLE OIL TYPES (page 38-22).The third type, covered in this section, has air springs and oil damping. For identification purposes, look for a standard air valve in one of three locations: on the front of the slider adjacent to the brake-pivot stud, on the back of the fork directly behind the brake-pivot stud, or under a threepronged cap in the top cap on each stanchion. The forks covered in this section include many models (listed below), but have a few minor variations (regarding service techniques). One variety has adjustable oil dampers. These have the air valve on the front
MARZOCCHI 9900 FORKSAIR-SPRUNG TYPES
or back of the sliders. The other variety has non-adjustable oil dampers. This variety has the air valves inside the top caps. Year and model Adjustable dampers 99 Z5 Alloy no 99 Z2 Superfly yes 00 Z5 QR 20 no 00 Z5 Flylight Air no 00 Z5 Flylight 100 no 00 Z4 Flylight Air no 00 Z2 X Fly QR 20 yes 00 Z2 X Fly yes 00 Z1 X Fly yes Several of these models, have removable stanchions. The presence of two bolts in the crown at the top of each stanchion indicates the stanchions are removable. Other models have stanchions that are an integral part of the fork crown. These differences in stanchion configuration occur with no correlation to other differences. Additionally, some of the models have stanchion caps that thread in, and others are threadless and retained by a snap-ring. When alternate procedures exist for all these variations, the following terms will be used: Adjustable and non-adjustable dampers Integral and non-integral stanchions Threaded and unthreaded stanchion caps Front, back, and top air valves All varieties are covered in the following procedure. It can be difficult to correctly identify the year and model of fork being worked on, but when there are variations and alternate procedures are provided, by reading all the alternate procedures and examining the features on the fork, it should be possible to determine which alternate procedure is appropriate. RockShox Dropout Vise Blocks #70107 are very useful for securing the sliders in the vise with minimal chance of cosmetic or structural damage. The dropout vise blocks only work on models that fit a standard quick-release hub. An alternative is to put a dummy axle set into the dropouts, clamp the axle set directly into the vise jaws, then attach the fork to the axle set. One more alternative is to use a fork mount such as those used for securing a bike in the bed of a pickup truck.

The Terminator shock has a rebound damper and a compression damper. Either can be installed facing either way, but only one way allows the dampers to function in the correct way. When correctly installed, the arrow on the rebound damper points toward the body eyelet and the arrow on the compression damper points away from the body eyelet. Simply put, the arrows point the way the body moves during rebound and compression strokes.
49. [ ] Holding damper unit with bottom face facing up, position shock body over damper unit with eyelet end of body pointing the same way as arrow end of R damper unit, then mate together so dtente spring inserts into spring hole (smaller hole) in mounting surface for damper unit. 50. [ ] Insert and tighten eight bolts that hold damper to shock cylinder. 51. [ ] Repeat previous two steps for compression damper unit, but install so arrow end points away from eyelet end of body.
34. [ ] Put Shaft Clamp around piston-end of shaft, then clamp tool into vise with piston end pointing up. 35. [ ] Install shim stack that was below piston onto end of shaft in reverse order of removal. 36. [ ] Install piston. Side with smaller-diameter valve holes in flat surface faces up. 37. [ ] Install shim stack that was above piston onto end of shaft. 38. [ ] Apply Loctite #242 to threads of nut, then thread nut onto stud (slightly snug). 39. [ ] Torque nut to 7080in-lbs (1213lbs@6"). 40. [ ] Turn shaft/ Shaft-Clamp assembly over in vise, then clamp securely. 41. [ ] Insert air piston, spring-end first, fully into piston shaft. 42. [ ] Install 11/2" Bullet Tool in end of shaft.
52. [ ] Attach pump to air valve, then pressurize to pressure recorded in step 1. 53. [ ] Remove shaft assembly from vise (if appropriate). 54. [ ] Push O-rings and seal-head to piston-end of shaft assembly.
55. [ ] Place shock body upright in vise, and fill with 5wt oil. 56. [ ] Manually thread seal-head as far as possible into shock body. 57. [ ] Check that O-ring under seal-head flange has disappeared inside shock body. 58. [ ] Use Combo Bearing Wrench to secure sealhead into to end of shock body to torque of 240in-lbs (24lbs@10"). 59. [ ] Install shock into bike. 60. [ ] Test shock by sitting in saddle and bouncing. Rear suspension should have damping. No sound of air in valving should be present. Listen for unusual noises, such as gurgling or sucking noise, which would indicate presence of air.
See table 383 for tool requirements. All the tools in the table are required for the job.
INDY & JETT FORK TOOLS
6mm Allen bit socket Ratchet extension RockShox 70096 RockShox 70098 UBT AL-11912B
(table 38-3) Fits and considerations
minimum 4" bit length 6" may be adequate, longer is recommended Judy/Quadra/Indy bushing remover Quadra/Indy/Jett bushing installer 22mm socket custom ground for optimal purchase

51. [ ] Place plastic shaft guide (cavity side, if any, first) onto shaft of Upper-Seal Installer tool. 52. [ ] Coat inside of cartridge body with light coating of hydraulic oil that will be used to fill damper unit. 53. [ ] With Upper-Seal Installer tool standing up on bench, slide cartridge body over seal/ tool assembly. 54. [ ] Place Cartridge-Body Fixture over cartridge body, then tap on end of fixture with plastic mallet to seat seal and plastic shaft guide into cartridge body. 55. [ ] Remove tools from cartridge body, then install Shaft-Guide tool through seal so small end of tool is inside cartridge body. 56. [ ] Place Cartridge-Body Fixture on bench (large-I.D.-end up) then place cartridge body into fixture. 57. [ ] Fill cartridge body halfway with oil. 58. [ ] Insert shaft assembly (end with no internal thread) into cartridge body until end of shaft engages end of Shaft-Guide tool. 59. [ ] Press shaft assembly into cartridge until Shaft-Guide tool is heard to drop to bench. Then seat shaft assembly fully into cartridge. 60. [ ] Fill cartridge body two-thirds full with oil. 61. [ ] Taking care not to pull shaft out of seal, pump shaft up and down several times to work oil into, and air bubbles out of, valve mechanism. 62. [ ] Slide top-out O-ring, then aluminum washer, over end of shaft and submerge both into the oil. 63. [ ] Fill cartridge body with oil to within 5mm of the top and let sit undisturbed for five minutes so air can dissipate from oil. 64. [ ] Fill cavity side of new bottom seal with grease, and grease outside of seal. 65. [ ] If adjusting rod was not removed from shaft, place a short section of fishing line through hole in seal. 66. [ ] Place seal (cavity-side first) over end of shaft (making sure line, if any, stays in place), then engage seal to cartridge body (making sure line is not trapped between seal and cartridge body. 67. [ ] Place conical washer (conical-face out) over shaft and against face of seal. 68. [ ] Place cavity end of Lower-Seal Installer tool over washer and seal. 69. [ ] With tool covered with rag to catch excess oil that might spurt out, tap plastic mallet against Lower-Seal Installer tool to seat seal fully into cartridge body, then remove LowerSeal Installer tool. 70. [ ] If adjuster rod has been removed, replace adjuster-rod O-ring with a new, greased O-ring. 71. [ ] If installing adjuster rod, fill shaft with oil. 72. [ ] If fishing line was used when installing seal, remove line now. 73. [ ] Grasping shaft firmly with fingers, thread adjusting rod into shaft until fully bottomed. 74. [ ] Turn adjusting rod out by number of turns recorded in step 35.

96. [ ] Install new crush washers to shaft bolts/nuts (except 1997 models), prepare bolt/nut threads with Loctite 242, then engage bolts/ nuts to neutral and damper shafts. 97. [ ] Secure bolts/nuts to 50in-lbs. 98. [ ] 1998 only: Insert adjuster knob through shaft bolt into damper shaft. 1999 only: Slide adjuster knob over shaft nut on damper shaft, then install small screw to retain knob.
Spring-stack and top-cap installation
99. [ ] Thoroughly grease springs, then insert into tops of stanchions in following orders: 1997 and T2: elastomer, spacers, then coil 1998: long coil, spacer, then short coil 1998 XL: spacer rod with end plates, long coil, spacer, then short coil. 1999: coil spring, then plastic spacer. 100.[ ] Carefully thread in top-cap assembly, then secure to 30in-lbs. 101.[ ] Restore pre-load setting from step 1. 102.[ ] Engage boots to seals on top of sliders.

Cartridge installation

One tuning option for this fork is to adjust the pre-load adjusting knobs to add or subtract pre-load on the springs. Greater pre-load on the springs makes the fork stiffer, which increases resistance to compression and increases rebound speed. Less pre-load on the springs makes the fork softer, reducing resistance to compression and decreasing rebound speed. The fork should sag when the riders weight is on it. Sag helps keep the tire in contact with the ground on rough terrain, when rolling over dips or holes. The pre-load should be adjusted to create the correct amount of sag, when the rider sits on the bike. RockShoxs recommended sag amounts are: Fork with 100mm travel: 1825mm sag Fork with 80mm travel: 1320mm sag Fork with 63mm travel: 715mm sag Springs should be changed if the sag cannot be set within the desired range by changing the pre-load adjustment. Even if sag can be set, if the fork bottoms out too frequently, stiffer springs are needed and if the fork never bottoms out on the most severe bumps, softer springs are needed.
90. [ ] Install end plate on top (unthreaded) end of shaft, then install conical cartridge washer (1997 only) flat-face first onto lower end of cartridge shaft. 91. [ ] Insert cartridge into stanchion, insert wavy washer (if any), then install snap-ring so face with sharp edges faces out. Note: T2 and 1998 models with 63mm travel, install conical bumper large-end first on cartridge shaft.

Pre-load adjustment

92. [ ] Pull both neutral shaft and damper shaft fully out of stanchions. 93. [ ] Place boots on stanchion tubes, then carefully push slider assembly partially onto stanchions, using gentle rocking motion until alignment is achieved and sliders move up easily. Stop before bottoms of sliders engage either shaft. 94. [ ] 1998 and 1999 models: Position fork so bottoms of sliders are higher than fork crown, then pour 10cc of 5wt shock oil (non seal-swelling) into each slider tube through holes for bottom bolts. 95. [ ] Push sliders on just far enough to see ends of shafts engaging holes in bottoms of slider tubes. Use small tool to align shafts to holes, if necessary.

8mm crush washer 10mm nut Air valve cover screw

Bottom-out bumper

38.19 RockShox '99 SID.
tridge is non-serviceable, but is removed for cleaning, inspection, and replacement of the glide ring and Oring at the top of the damper shaft.
10. [ ] Pull conical bottom-out bumpers off cartridge shafts. 11. [ ] Push both cartridge shafts fully in. It is necessary to open air valve in left shaft to release air pressure. 12. [ ] Use cartridge driver to turn both cartridges clockwise until completely unthreaded, then pull on cartridge shafts to remove cartridges. 13. [ ] Carefully remove blue glide ring and black Oring from top end of each cartridge shaft. 14. [ ] Pull cylinder off bottom of negative-spring assembly, then remove washer, conical topout bumper, and plastic plate. 23. [ ] Holding slider upside down, insert RockShox Bushing Remover with 30mm-long remover plate up into one side of slider and engage plate against back of first bushing. 24. [ ] With tool still engaged to bushing, drop end of tool through sleeve, Seal Separator, and vise jaws until slider seats on sleeve, then firmly secure vise on Bushing Remover handle. 25. [ ] Hold one cylinder of Seal Separator stationary and rotate other cylinder to pull bushing. 26. [ ] Repeat previous three previous steps for other lower bushing.
1999 and 2000 damper cartridges cannot be overhauled. Replacement is the only option.
27. [ ] Use mild detergent to thoroughly clean all parts. Dry with lint-free rag and/or compressed air. Avoid solvents, which may damage seals and other non-metallic parts. 28. [ ] Inspect all rubber O-rings and glide rings for nicks and tears, and replace as necessary. 29. [ ] Replace crush washer on each shaft nut. 30. [ ] Push cartridge shaft to limit both ways and inspect both ends of shaft for wear marks that indicated need of replacement. 31. [ ] While pushing and pulling cartridge shaft, listen for gurgling sounds that indicate air in cartridge, which is reason for replacement. 32. [ ] Thoroughly clean outside of cartridge, then pump shaft repeatedly. Look for oil seepage at both ends of cartridge, indicating need of replacement. 33. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes for bends, scratches, or heavy wear. 34. [ ] Inspect fork crown for cracks.
Bushing wear can be determined in two ways. After removing the seals in step #15, insert the stanchions into the sliders again and check for any fore-and-aft play. Obvious looseness is caused by worn bushings. Alternatively, before removing the bushings, clean them thoroughly and inspect their condition with the aid of a flashlight. Good bushings have a gray coating. Worn bushings have a metallic gold or bronze appearance where the coating has worn away.
15. [ ] Insert screwdriver into seal on top of slider, then pry seal out. 16. [ ] Place Seal Separator upright on slightly open vise jaws with large-diameter end up. 17. [ ] Install 30mm-long extractor plate onto extractor tool, push slider onto end of extractor tool until upper bushing clears extractor plate, then pull out on slider until extractor plate catches on edge of upper bushing. 18. [ ] Guide handle of extractor down through Seal Separator and vise jaws until top of slider tube rests on Seal Separator, then firmly secure extractor handle in vise. Note: Vise may need to be repositioned to enable end of tool to clear bench. 19. [ ] Hold large cylinder of Seal Separator stationary and rotate other cylinder to pull bushing out. 20. [ ] Remove slider, then pull extractor tool out of Seal Separator and retrieve bushing. 21. [ ] Repeat procedure for upper bushing in other slider tube.

Air pressure and type of gas Changing oil weight Changing valving
The recommended gas pressure is 175psi.
RockShox recommends 5w oil, but anything from 2.5w to 15w may be used. The heavier-weight the oil, the more damping will occur. The shim washers on top of the piston controls the rate of compression damping. Increasing the stack of washers will increase damping rate, while reducing the stack will reduce damping rate.
SPRING AND SHOCK INSTALLATION
1. [ ] Slide spring over body end of shock. 2. [ ] Thread spring-adjuster ring onto shock body. 3. [ ] Install shock on bike.
This shock is a air/oil shock with an external coil spring. It is available in several lengths of travel and with several different spring ratings. The service of all these variations is similar enough so that the following procedure applies to all of them. Another model, the Deluxe, is significantly different. Instead of a shock body that gets substantially fatter at the end that is not inside the spring, the Deluxe body is a uniform diameter throughout. There is a section called ROCKSHOX DELUXE REAR SHOCKthat should be used for servicing this type (page 38-60). This procedure requires several tools that are included in the RockShox 70106 tool kit. The tool kit is designed for other models as well, so some tools in the kit will not be used in this procedure. In some cases, there may be two tools that are very similar except for slight differences in dimension. The individual tools are unmarked, so make sure that the tool you select seems dimensionally appropriate for the procedure being performed. On some versions, when the spring pre-load adjuster is loosened fully, there is enough slack to remove the spring keeper plate. On the shortest-travel model, however, an extra tool is needed to compress the spring further in order to remove the spring keeper plate.
ROCKSHOX SUPER DELUXE REAR SHOCK
7. [ ] Use spring-compression tool to compress spring (if spring does not develop slop when red adjusting ring is fully loosened). 8. [ ] Slip silver spring stop plate off shaft. 9. [ ] Slide spring off shock unit. 10. [ ] Use thin slotted screwdriver to turn damperadjusting shaft fully counterclockwise (so damping will be reduced to make piston removal easier). 11. [ ] Thread ring off of threaded tube, leaving it in space between shaft eyelet & threaded tube.

Shaft eyelet Red adjuster knob Spring stopper plate

Spring

Red adjuster ring (adjust down)
38.24 Spring removal on Super Deluxe shock.
The compressed spring length needs to be measured so that the customers pre-load setting can be restored.
1. [ ] Measure length of spring between red adjuster ring and silver stop plate: _____mm 2. [ ] Turn red adjuster ring fully away from spring.
The shock unit may mount to the frame in a variety of ways, depending on the design of the frame. Usually, there will be a bolt and nut through the shock eyelets, or there will be a stud with retaining clips on each end.
Pump needle Screw Threaded body
4. [ ] Turn red damper-adjusting knob fully counterclockwise, counting turns: _____. 5. [ ] Holding red damper-adjusting knob stationary, use 2mm Allen wrench to unthread bolt from center of knob, then remove knob. 6. [ ] Use thin slotted screwdriver to turn damperadjusting shaft fully clockwise (so spring will clear when removed).

Reservoir can

38.25 Wearing safety goggles, remove the screw and insert the
pump needle through the air-valve rubber to depressurize the shock.
1. [ ] Remove needle from pump by unscrewing first brass fitting at base of needle.
2. [ ] Unthread slotted screw fitting in face of reservoir (near base of threaded tube that red ring was threaded on). 3. [ ] Wearing safety goggles to prevent getting hydraulic fluid in your eyes, insert needle through hole brass screw came out of, to depressurize reservoir. 4. [ ] Remove needle. 10. [ ] Remove shaft from shaft-clamping blocks. 11. [ ] Thread red adjusting ring off threaded tube and slip adjusting ring off end of shaft.
In the next step, and at several points throughout the remaining procedure, the shaft is placed in a pair of blocks with radius jaws that match the diameter of the shaft closely. The blocks are then placed in the vise, and the vise secured. The design of the shaftclamping blocks ensures that the shaft will not be damaged by too much tightening of the vise, but failure to tighten the vise enough will result in the shaft spinning in the vise clamping blocks, which could destroy the shaft!
5. [ ] Grasp shaft securely in shaft-clamping blocks (in vise), eyelet end up. 6. [ ] Protect shaft eyelet flats with rag. 7. [ ] Grasp flats of eyelet securely in large adjustable-wrench jaws. 8. [ ] Turn wrench counterclockwise to unthread eyelet from shaft. 9. [ ] Remove conical bumper.
Shaft-assembly removal and oil draining
In the next step, the threaded tube of the shock body is clamped in a special tool. Unlike the shaftclamping tool, too much clamping force can cause damage. Too little clamping force can also cause damage. It is strongly recommended to use a torque wrench!

for a short while, once the glide-ring sizer is removed. This enables the glide ring to fit more easily into the shock body. Once there, the glide-ring expands to fit closely along the inside of the shock. The tool kit includes a glide-ring sizer for this shock, and a different one for the Deluxe model. The correct glide-ring sizer will fit somewhat snugly over the glide ring.
72. [ ] Place large-I.D. end of glide-ring sizer over glide ring fully, then leave in place until ready to install shaft into shock body. 73. [ ] Remove shaft assembly from vise. 92. [ ] Using thin slotted screwdriver, turn damping adjuster rod fully counterclockwise. 93. [ ] Remove glide-ring sizer from shaft assembly, then immediately insert piston-end of shaft assembly slowly into threaded tube, until top of piston is at least 1/2" below top of threaded tube (oil will spill). Stop before seal head reaches threaded tube. 94. [ ] Let bubbles rise and dissipate from oil for at least 5 minutes. 95. [ ] Holding piston/shaft assembly stationary, push seal-head down shaft and engage seal-head in threads of threaded tube (oil will spill). 96. [ ] Thread seal-head fully into threaded tube (oil will spill), then secure to 100120in-lbs (1720lbs@6"). 97. [ ] Clean assembly of all excess oil. 98. [ ] Thread red adjuster ring off of threaded tube. 99. [ ] Insert needle in air valve and pressurize to 225psi (nitrogen preferred, air is acceptable). 100.[ ] Inspect for leaks at all seams and seals.

Reservoir/body assembly

74. [ ] Grease all O-rings with light-weight, highquality grease, then grease all seal-mounting points. 75. [ ] Carefully slide O-ring over end of threaded tube, then seat seal in groove. 76. [ ] Install O-rings in inside and outside edges of floating piston that fits inside reservoir can. 77. [ ] Install O-ring in outer perimeter of eyelet cap cap. 78. [ ] Clamp flat tab of threaded-tube clamping tool in end of vise, so that short-threaded end of tube points up. 79. [ ] Slide small-I.D. end of reservoir can over end of threaded tube, until can is seated against shoulder on threaded tube. 80. [ ] Slide floating piston (cavity-side first, conical-face up) carefully over end of threaded tube, just until it clears threads on threaded tube. 81. [ ] Clean grease off tube threads. 82. [ ] Apply drop of Loctite 271 to tube threads. 83. [ ] Thread body-eyelet cap onto tube. 84. [ ] Place rag over body-eyelet-cap flats to protect finish. 85. [ ] Grasp flats securely with large adjustable wrench, then secure to 100120in-lbs (17 20lbs@6"). 86. [ ] Loosen bolts and remove body from threadedtube clamp. Remove clamp from vise.

34. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry with lint-free rag and/or compressed air. 35. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes for heavy wear marks or scratches. 36. [ ] Inspect lips of slider-tube seals for tears. 37. [ ] Inspect cartridge shaft for heavy wear marks or scratches. 38. [ ] Inspect inside cartridge body for heavy wear marks or scratches. 39. [ ] Inspect cartridge-seal lips for nicks or tears.

Cartridge assembly

40. [ ] With Cartridge Holder loosely supported in vise, install cartridge body in vise so end with circlip/snap-ring is down. 41. [ ] Place Delrin conical-face washer into cartridge body (conical-face first), then drive it to bottom of cartridge body with large end of large drift. 42. [ ] Grease cartridge seal and install (cuppedface up) into cartridge body, then seat fully with large end of large drift. 43. [ ] Place 2mm flat Delrin washer into cartridge body, then seat fully with large end of large drift. 44. [ ] Remove cartridge body from Holder, insert small end of small drift into seal until large end of drift is flush with conical washer, then put cartridge body (closed-end down) back into Holder. 45. [ ] Put split ring into groove in piston, then place shaft (round-end down) carefully on top of drift. 46. [ ] Fill cartridge body with 2.5wt oil to 1/2" from top of body. 47. [ ] Carefully push shaft down fully into cartridge body, making sure split ring does not catch on top edge of cartridge body. Small drift will fall to floor. 48. [ ] Thread Bleed Tool into top end of shaft, then pump shaft 1/2" up and down repeatedly.
58. [ ] Secure dropout of slider into vise with RockShox dropout vise blocks, or other method that will not mar dropout. 59. [ ] Loosen set screw on depth ring of Bushing Install tool, then position and secure ring with setscrew in upper dimple in tool shaft. 60. [ ] Place bushing on bottom end of tool and insert tool into slider, then tap on top of tool until depth ring contacts top of slider. 61. [ ] Remove tool and repeat for other slider. 62. [ ] Remove tool and set depth ring with setscrew in lower dimple on tool shaft, then repeat procedure for both upper bushings.
63. [ ] Place plastic conical caps on top ends of cartridge shaft and neutral shaft. 64. [ ] Thread cartridge body into bottom end of left stanchion and secure. 65. [ ] Slide smallest conical bumper (conical-end first) onto bottom end of neutral shaft, then insert neutral shaft into top end of right stanchion. 66. [ ] Pull damper and neutral shafts fully down, then place larger conical bumpers (conicalends first) onto shafts.

Bicycle Institute of S Australia Bikes for Refugees scheme Bikes offered for sale to raise funds for the Bikes for Refugees scheme supplying recycled bikes, free of charge, to newly arrived familes to help them settle in Eight year sale a selection of unusual, collectable, old and new bikes, retained to seell toraise funds, from over 1500 bikes donated by the public. (the rest were recycled) 50 Useful and unusual bikes for sale.
Raising funds for: Australian Refugee Association plc to assist young people setting in Aus (50%) BISAs Bikes for Refugees scheme to collect & recycle bikes, for donation free of charge to new arrival, etc. To assist with cost of purchasing of spares, and to assist providing job opportunities for young people from refugee background. (50%)
Imports: European, Japanese, Chinese built...2 Distinctive and Individual...10 Historic & Vintage, single speed bikes...19 Vintage & Distinctive geared bikes...32 Vintage Mountain Bikes...39 Vintage Childrens bikes...43 Vintage childrens toys...47 Frames, Parts, Accessories,....49 Bicycle Instutite of S Ausgtralia (BISA) - Bikes for Refugees scheme.66 Terms & Conditions, contact details...67
Imports: European, Japanese, Chinese built.
Genuine Chinese Flying Pigeon imported by Graham Day from Peoples Republic of China in 1990s. Ref No 1557
Chinese built road bike, purchased in mainland China by Graham Day, in the 1990s and imported. Many unique features. -black frame; swept back handlebars, rod brakes, full chain case, Frame height 55 cm, length 60 cm; Rear rack fitted; Full cover mudguards; Revolving continuous sound bicycle bell; Comes with 2 imported spare tyres from the Wheelbarrow Tyre Company.
Gitane (France), mens road bike. Ref No 1452
Grey steel frame, lugged; Frame height 54 cm; length 55 cm; Brakes Centrepull Mafac Racer; Rear gears: 5; Huret derallieur; Front gears 2: Huret derallieur; Rims: steel chrome, 27 x 1 1/4; Pedals: steel, Gipiemme (Italy) Frame will take rear rack.
Gitane Newport (France) Mens road bike. Ref No 1537
Lugged steel frame; grey; Frame Height 61 cm length 58 cm; Brazed cable stops on frame; Brakes: centre pull, DiaCompe drop forged; Handlebars, swept back; Frame can take rear rack; Rear deralleur Suntour GT-luxe; Front derallieur, Suntour Spirit
Peugeot, Record du Monde, 10 speed road bike mixte frame. Ref No 1450
Frame white, lugged, brazed; Braze-on cable lugs and pump holder; Fitted to take rear rack; Brakes centre pull Dia Compe; Mudguards, chrome, front and rear; Avenir comfort II gel saddle; Handlebars chrome, swept back; white grips. Frame height 51 cm length 54 cm
Swallow brand Araya Industrial Co (Japan) Road Bike. Ref No 1567
5 speed, heaps of unusual features. Centre pull brakes; Leather saddle, padded; 2 lightweight aluminium mudguards; Rims 27 x 1 1/1, Araya, chrome; Welded frame; Unusual fish tail quick release mechanism, front and rear (oversize wing nut); No 707997; Front hub dynamo; Rear deralleur unusual early Suntour design, distinctive, single parallelogram; Drop handlebars. Frame height 50 cm length 53 cm.
Distinctive and Individual
Sierra Australia mens lightweight road bike custom built as tourer. Ref No 1556
51 cm steel frame, (Tange 900 cr-mo steel, double butted), red; Drop handlebars, Alps Austria, Japan. Wheels, 27 x 1 3/8 Araya Japan aluminium. 21 speed wide range gears for touring. Friction Bar-end (barcon) shifters. Blackburn rear pannier rack. Unusual forks. Sanyo Dyna-Power bottom-bracket dynamo; Scandinavian warning arm signaling cars to give road room. Lots of history: a one-off, custom built for long distance international touring, for Margaret Day & kindly donated to Bikes for refugees.
Merida MTB/hybrid, carbon fibre frame, Mens. Ref No 1440
Frame: carbon fibre, Dura carbon 980, Frame height 49 cm, grey/black design. Front adjustable shock absorbers, Marzocchi Zokes; ProMax V-brakes; SG8 Sunrace rear derailleur, 21 speed; Cranks: Dotek YF DK5-170 cranks. 26 wheels.

Giant Compact road OCR3 Al frame, mens road racer. Ref No 1442
Aluxx aluminium frame, grey. Shimano SORA gears (triple crank on the front), oval x-section tubing; brakes caliper, Tektro. Shimano brifters (combined gear and brake levers), Frame "size 55" (measures 50 cm centre to centre) , width 56 cm.
Custom built brand, Mens 10 speed road bike. Ref No 1399
Custom built cycles Adelaide; Frame height 57 cm, width 58 cm; Steel frame, fully lugged, decorative lugs; white with black/red lettering/detailing; Wheels 27 x 1 ; brakes- centre-pull Shimano tourney; handlebars drop Alps Industrial Co Ltd Champion brand, Japan
Dyno Mens MTB Ref No 1463
21 speed mens mountain bike, welded steel frame, Shimano Altus rear, grip-shifters. Rims, 26 in Araya aluminium. Ex South Coast Cycles, Christies Beach. Frame height 51 cm length 55 cm. Useful second bike, for getting around locally
Diamond Back Topanga, Mens mountain bike. Ref No 1446
Steel frame, 'TrueTemper double-butted Cr-Mo'; Rear gear: Shimano; 7 speed cluster, F gear: Shimano Hyperdrive, Shimano Alvio shifter; Rims aluminium; Hubs: Shiman Alvio Parallax; frame height 45 cm width 55 cm; Frame will take 2 water bottles; brazed on lugs
Cruiser - Ladies road bike, contemporary, rebuilt. Ref No 1554
Frame re-sprayed maroon; frame height 50 cm width 54 cm; White wall tyres, chrome mudguards; Black saddle; Shifters: rear: Skylark: F Shimano Altus; Wheels 27 x 1 1/4, handlebars, broad, black tape plus black grips
Historic & Vintage, mainly single speed bikes
Super Elliotts, small frame, Ladies 3 speed. Ref No T10
Super Elliotts frame, No H001230 Metal E badge on headset. ; Full length chrome chain guard; frame height 42 cm; length 49 cm; Brazed on fittings for bicycle pump; Front and rear mudguards chrome; Tyres 24 x 1 1/4; Side-pull caliper brakes; 3 speed rear hub, Sturmey Archer.
Mystery brand Pre-war Ladies single gear bike. Ref No 1377
Yellow frame, lugged; top & bottom bars straight. ; Frame height53 cm length58 cm. Rear facing slots for rear wheel; Caliper brakes; chrome mudguards; upright bars, chrome Wheels ?28 in, chrome; Oiling point bottom bracket.
Bullock Adelaide Very old, locally made Ladies single gear. Ref No 1378
Frame steel, red, hand painted lettering speedmaster, a bit faded; Upper bar of frame, gracefully curved. Lower bar straight. ; Rear mudguard fitted for skirt guard ; Rear facing dropouts; Back stays bolted on not welded; Rubber pad pedals; 26 in wheels, painted and pin striped; Frame size: Upright 46 cm, width 53 cm; Chrome upright bars; Oil points, bottom bracket and rear axle

BSA, Ladies Sports 3 speed: made in England. Ref No 1441
Bike is very original and in good condition. BSA frame, Sports Made in England, product of BSA group built with high grade steel; Black, some pin striping; Traditional upright bars; Front light bracket; Lycett English sprung saddle; Full length chain guard; BSA design chain ring; Cottered steel cranks; F and R dynamo lights; Rear reflector is custom BSA design with BSA logo. Frame height 53 cm length 54 cm.
Rainbow brand Ladies Hand painted with original Skirt Guard, good condition. Ref No 1555
Locally-made ladies bike. Decorated in white, red & gold with pin striping & designs; 2 mudguards; skirt guard on rear; White Malvern Star saddle; steel frame, brazed ; frame height: 49 cm; length (saddle-post to headset) 49 cm; Swept back upright handlebars, chrome, red grips; brazed on fittings to take pump.;
Malvern Star Mens single speed. Ref No T12
Steel lugged frame, blue, Frame Height 54 cm; length 57 cm; blue, with transfers; Braze on fittings for pumps, Rear rack, Star symbol at front of headset, and on front forks, Wheels chrome rims, 27 x 1 1/4; Transfer Official supplier to the Olympic cycling team; Original drop bars turned upwards, cow horn fashion, just right for riding to work with the kit bag balanced on top!.
Hillson, Mens single speed. Ref No T 16 or 1147
Smallish, 1940-50s bike, maroon plus white frame, pinstriped; Rear stays bolt on; Upright handlebars; Head-tube has flamboyant atomic design on it; Frame Height 49 cm length 53 cm; Cottered cranks; Chrome mudguards; Tyres 26 x 1 3/8, steel rims.; Saddle & seat-post not original.
Standish, Ladies fixed speed cycle. Ref No T19
Standish steel frame, fully brazed; Badged at front Standish Torrensville Klemzig Unley. Some pin striping; Serial No 8T8 30064; Bolt on lugs for pumps; Pedals rubber pad, good condition; Dynamo lighting, Wheels steel rim, 26 x 1 3/8, 40 spoke rear 36 spoke front; Handlebars, half swept back; Frame height 50 cm length 53 cm

Mystery Make - Ladies single speed. Ref No T18
Fully brazed lugged frame; no make; unusual Resilion front brake, coaster rear brake; Swept back handlebars, Full length chain guard; Brazed on attachment for pump; Mudguards; No make marks possibly repainted, or custom made.; Frame Height 53 cm length 54 cm; Top bar of frame is straight not curved.
Hubray brand, Ladies fixed single speed. Ref No T15
Very original and good cond. Front headset shows design of Australian and British flags; Saddle Peacock (Japan) imitation leather; Pin-striping, plus hand decoration, white/gold; Mudguards, rear with skirt guard holes; Rubber pad pedals; frame height 51; length 53; Handlebars, narrow, half swept back; red bar ends; Bell, St Christopher design (Patron Saint of cyclists!!!); Chain guard; Chrome cap on front forks
Raleigh Olympus, made in England Mens road bike. Ref No 1386
Frame; fully brazed, Tru Wel" 20-30 hi carbon steel tubing; frame height 47 cm length 52 cm; Wheels 27 x 1 1/4 ; Wide handlebars; 10 speed; Side-pull brakes; Rear derallieur, Huret, unusual design, single parallelogram.
Healing/Super Elliotts, Mens 3 speed vintage bike. Ref No 1509
Healing frame; badged Super Elliotts; Bolted rear stays, rear facing slots; 3 speed Sturmey archer rear hub; Rear brake S/A drum; cottered cranks needs pedal; Front cantilever brake, Resilion; frame height 54 cm length 57 cm; Front axle Chair brand Japan?; Braze on pump holders; Oiling points on bottom bracket and rear axle; Old 1930s rear rack.
Vintage & Distinctive geared bikes
Moulton made in England. Distinctive design small wheel bike for adults. Ref no 1305
Series 1 Moulton. Only 78,000 made! Saved the British bike industry from the Japanese invasion etc etc. Desirable Bradford-made version. Fantastic, highly versatile and mostly complete piece of cycling history crying out for restoration. Expert advice to hand! Front suspension and rear suspension designed by same engineer responsible for the Morris Mini suspension. Front wheel has hub dynamo; Rear 3 speed Sturmey Archer hub; Handlebars, swept back, blue grips; Rear luggage rack, distinctive design; Moulton frame instantly recognizable and unique. Height bottom bracket to seat post top 51; length 57 (one size fits all). Mansfield saddle; plus small saddle bag. Made in England badge on front.
Roadmaster GX sports, Steel frame 10 speed. Ref no 1372
Straightforward ladies steel frame, Roadmaster GK sports, 10 speed lugged frame height 49 cm length 51 cm.

Standish FF12 & FF5 pair mens & ladies: Freewheel bottom bracket. Ref No 1332
Unusual design: freewheel bottom bracket, Shimano FF system, 6 x 2; 12 speed gears, Brakes - centre pull, Shimano Tourney; Frame: fully lugged, sticker showing bike is built to Australian Standard 1927. Steel frame. Mens frame, height 56 cm, length 57 cm; ladies bike height 48 cm width 57 cm.
BONUS Free Ladies walk-through FF5 frame also with Shimano bottom-bracket freewheel build up as a pair, or use as spare
His n hers Standish Mixte-framed road bikes two bikes for sale. Ref Nos D155 & D159
Standish; 10 speed ; Centre-pull Weinmann Vainqueur 610/750 brakes; Steel frame, white; One has dropped handlebars; other has upright ones. Frame sizes both bikes: height, 45 cm, length 55 cm. Men's bike shown; ladies bike is similar.
Ricardo, Australian made, Mens road bike. Ref No 1392
Ricardo sports 10 speed, frame height 53 cm; Width 56 cm; Fully lugged steel frame, black. Dropped handlebars, Side pull brakes; 2 attachment points for rack/mudguards at rear. Shimano RS shifters
GT Nomad hybrid front suspension bike. Ref D150
Frame: Fitness geometric 6061; aluminium; Tektro V brakes, Shimano rear shifter, Tektro brake levers; Rims Alex aluminium, 21 speed gears (7 x 3) ; Frame height: labelled as seventeen inch actual measurements, bottom bracket to crossbar 44 cm; bottom bracket to tube top 50 cm; Handlebars adjustable angle; Fitted to take 2 water bottles; Tyres 700 x 38C Front Infinity; rear; Michelin city Protek Plus; Distinctive GT frame design.
Early Model Mountain Bikes
Kenworth Buffalo Sports Mens Mountain Bike. Ref No 1486
Welded steel frame; Bull Moose handlebars with triangular frame brace; 12 speed Suntour rear derailleur; Brakes Lee Chi wide profile cantilevers; Gear shifters Climber friction thumbshifters (similar to Suntour Powershifters); Frame height 50 cm length 55 cm; Lugged on cable holder. Front derallieur, SY Japan.
Graecross Trekker Mens mountain bike. Ref No D103
Butted steel frame,; height 56cm width 57 cm; Rear gears 5; Shimano Tourney shifter; Gear levers Changi Star; Shifters handlebar, Shimano. Brakes aluminium CS brand, distinctive style

Kuwahara Aries mountain bike. Ref No D142
Largish steel frame, height 52cm, length 56 cm. Rear 6 speed Shimano XCD shifter; F 3 speed Shimano xcd shifter; Steel bear trap pedals; 26 in wheels, aluminium rings; Brakes, wide-profile cantilevers; Handlebars straight, Aulun; Brake handles Dia Compe; Thumbshifters Suntour Quickshift (r gears) Polar Control (F gears); Frame takes 2 water bottles plus cable lugs plus rear rack

Childrens bikes

Ricardo 24 in wheel, boys Road bike, small 47 cm frame. Ref 1566
Ricardo steel frame, Australian made, fully lugged; red with some white pin striping; Wheels 24 x 1 1/4 in; 10 speed, 2 x 5; Brooks B18 racing saddle; Drop handlebars; Derallieurs: rear Shimano RS; front Shimano; FE; frame height 47 cm; width 50 cm
Elizabeth Star, Girls road bike, small 47 cm frame. Ref No D153
Elizabeth Star, Lugged and brazed frame; frame height 47 cm, width 48 cm; wheels 24 in x 1 ; White saddle; Brakes sidepull calliper. ; 10 speed.
Cruiser - Aussie Made Kids 70s style, single speed. Ref No D152
Aussie down under blue frame; 70s style easy rider saddle; long saddle; high back support; chopper style handlebars; Frame is boys or girls top bar unbolts; Wheels, 20 x 2.125; Front and rear chrome ; mudguards; Bottom bracket to; crossbar: 45 cm Bottom bracket to saddle : 53 cm saddle height is adjustable. Saddlepost to headset : 45 cm

Childrens toys

2 x toddlers trikes, wooden saddle. Frame is flat steel bar riveted not tubing. No make 1 x Kelso brand childs wheelbarrow 1 x childs scooter suit older child, frame is riveted flat steel bar not tubing; solid wheels, No make 1 x childs scooter, suit young child, frame is riveted flat steel bar. Cyclops brand
Frames, Parts, Accessories, spares.
Avanti Trailer bikes for children - 2 only
Ref Nos 1374, 1375 Avanti Allycat brand, 20 in wheels, BMX style handles; 1 black, 1 bright blue; Attaches to seat post of adults bike; (set is missing one frame attachment)
Childs seats to fit on rear rack: second-hand, 3 only
Luggage racks -aluminium front and rear racks 10 only
Racing Handlebars salvaged mostly from 10- speeds
Various makes, dropped handlebars plus bar stems.
Wheels, second-hand, mostly 26 in
Mostly aluminium rim. And mostly unbranded or mass market brands Need a spare wheel for a run-about bike
Bike racks for cars 3 only
Various designs, each takes three bikes. Fits easily onto the towbar. Most designs you can tow a trailer at the same time as you carry bikes.

Steel frames mostly fully lugged frames, from 10 and 12 speeds suitable for rebuilding.
Unless otherwise stated, includes forks 1. Repco ladies road bike, fully butted, Height 49 cm, width 54 cm 2. Oz cycles celerity road bike, Ladies, Height 49 cm, width 53 cm 3. Challenger ladies road bike Supreme, fully butted, Height 51 cm, width 52 cm
4. Standish mens road bike Adams 12 Nissan hi ten steel tubing Height 62 cm, width 56 cm 5. GX sports 10 speed Mens road bike, no forks Height 52 cm, width 55 cm
6. Speedwell Sitach Mens Height 52 cm, width 56 cm 7. Repco Monaco 1207 tensile steel; Mens, also has Suntour AccuShift gear levers fitted 8. Malvern Star SL sports male, Height 56 cm, width 58 cm, sticker bike built to A 1927. Extensive braze on parts: fittings for rear light and front light (forks/stays), 2 rear attachment pints for guards/frame, fully lugged 9. Norco frame, mountain bike,1020 steel. Welded frame, yellow Height 61 cm, width 56 cm 10. Konya Meteor 20, oversize tubing Height 49 cm, width 60cm low cross bar Australian design
Lightweight road bike frame only Spokesman Canberra. Ref No
Spokesman [Canberra] , frame +pedals+forks only, well used; height 56 cm butted steel frame plus forks made in Japan, pale blue ; Sugino (Japan) drive cogs cranks & pedals. Rebuild with your preferred wheels (27 or possibly 700), brakes, running gear etc. Brazed on brake cable rings.
Dean Toseland Strong, Fully lugged steel frame
Dean Toseland was a former Olympic cyclist, who for many years ran a bike business in Adelaide. This is a grey mens road frame, fully butted, braze-on pump attachment, originally built as a 10-speed road bike. This is a strong solid frame, suitable for heavy use or local riding. Height 55 cm, width 57 cm.
Other Accessories and Parts rear Panniers, 1 pair custom made canvas (shown); 1 single right hand side, Tioga
Strong panniers, various designs, with reflective tape, draw strings at top, clip-on straps for easy streamlining the bag, reflective tape. Hang onto the rear rack, attach hook to rear stays. Ideal for small local trips and carrying shopping,
Manitou Front suspension forks, 2 only. Suspension seat post, spring loaded 1 only
Black: Manitou Convertible Travel 100 adjustable; Grey: Manitou answer TPC SX spring adjustable
Shimano hub dynamo, 6V 2.4A, built into 24 x 1 3/8 in Ukai Japan steel rim wheel. Unused; 1 only
Drum brake built into rear 24 in wheel Al rim s/h, 1 only
Unusual drum brake, maybe suit recumbent, second hand.
Front lights Cateye daylites, twin front lights, + Sunrise LCR6V4S sealed rechargeable battery (4 amp-hours), plus charger , plus holder for cross bar.
Twin front light, fits on handlebar. Dry cell battery plus charger. Battery hangs off cross bar. Very bright.
Shimano V-brakes and brake levers
Altus rapid fire, brake levers good condition with attachments to take rapid fire gears. Deore V-brakes good condition, complete with cable, pasta pipe, attachment bolts.

Bicycle Instutite of S Ausgtralia (BISA) - Bikes for Refugees scheme
The sale is to help new arrivals. 50% to the Australian Refugee Association, a registered charity. 50% to the Bicycle Institute of S Australia, Bikes for Refugees scheme which recycles bikes, to go to new arrivals
Back story: The Bicycle Institute of S Australia, is a voluntary community group that works to encourage cycling and to represent cyclists interests. From 2003 we have been running a bike recycling scheme, as a service to the community, for people who prefer to see unwanted bikes and bike parts re-used; and also to supply bikes to the community. The scheme is volunteer run, managed as a social enterprise, and is strictly not-for-profit. The services makes the bikes available free of charge, mostly to refugee families settling in Adelaide, occasionally to other charitable causes, and to schools in deprived areas, or in remote areas. It relies on the public for donations of bikes; and on volunteers to donate time and effort to fix the bikes and get them roadworthy. The scheme costs $2000-$3000 a year to run. Producing bikes that are reliable to ride, requires a lot of spare parts. Inner tubes, cables, brake blocks, saddles, odd sized tyres etc often need to be bought new. We also add tyre sealant to prevent punctures a real problem in Adelaide, and our experience is in terms of keeping bikes on the road- prevention is much better than cure. We also employ 1-2 young people from refugee background, on Saturday afternoons to help with the bikes. This gives them a small additional income, plus experience of working in Australia, which they can use to help get other jobs later. Also in 2009 we undertook to provide bikes for Deadly Treadlies in Alice Springs, a charity who provide bikes and bike fixing, for young people, mostly from Aboriginal background. Deadlies was forced to close in August 2009 when due to the global financial crisis, its sponsors cut funding. BISA took up the slack, repaired and shipped around 200 bikes on that scheme, to Aboriginal communities and organisations in northern SA and in the N Territory. We did this at the time so people would still get bikes however transport to remote areas e.g Uluru is expensive, plus costs of fitting thornproof tubes to bikes as standard, cost us several thousand $ and left the scheme somewhat out of pocket. Funds from this sale, will help to cover those expenses. For that funding the scheme creates 1-2 part time work for young people, return 150-200 bikes annually to re use, and provides a bike recycling service for the community. This representing a return of approx $10,000 per annum to the community. More information on the BISA website, www. Bias.asn.au Most bikes are donated by members of the public to date over 1500 have been donated. Bikes sold, represent <7% of those donated; approx 5% are salvaged for parts; and the remainder are put back into use. More information, see the BISA website, or contact the co-ordinator, Mike Brisco.

Terms & Conditions contact details
This sale is aimed at people who are interested in riding unusual bikes, and are prepared to spend a bit of time and effort, getting these distinctive vehicles, going again. Bikes are offered as is and vary greatly in condition, depending on age, use, how they have been stored etc. Some are ready to ride. Others require servicing & repair & parts to be road worthy. We are happy to provide details of a bikes condition and work needed - please ask. Ready to ride bikes - see price list : these have been serviced, checked, etc , have tyre sealant (Slime) added to tyres, & are ready to go. Other bikes: will probably need servicing and repair before riding. Most are offered just as we receive them: they have not been ridden for a while, and have not had parts e.g flat tyres, replaced. Nearly all Bike shops & qualified bike mechanics can do the work needed - we are happy to suggest contacts. Alternatively, Bikes for Refugees can for a fee, clean, service & check your bike - please ask. -Swaps & trade ins: We much prefer cash. We are keen to keep Bikes for Refugees going, and we need cash to buy spares, puncture sealant, etc. However: we are prepared to consider trade ins under some circumstances. (1) on bikes & accessories offered for $50 or less; (2) by prior arrangement; (3) We can accept as swap, any reasonable brand mountain bike, or BMX, up to 10 years old; the bike must be in good condition, rideable, and roadworthy; some wear & tear is OK. Contact Mike Brisco to discuss. -frame sizes: .Height: std crossbar, height from centre of bottom bracket, to centre of crossbar.Height: bikes with low crossbar e.g ladies: we give the above, plus bottom bracket to top of tube.width: centre of seat post tube, to centre of headset tube.
Other sizes: The photos also give an idea of overall height, etc. Bikes were photographed against a garage door. The lines on the door, are 15 cm apart. -Terms: We prefer cash on the day, please! -Hours: Bikes for Refugees is usually open Saturday afternoons, 2-5 pm. -Transport outside Adelaide: occasionally possible standard road freight charges apply, including pick up from Bikes for Refugees.
Inquiries: Mike Brisco, co-ordinator 13 Mines Road, Campbelltown SA 5074 email mike.brisco@flinders.edu.au Text 16 81.
Bicycle Institute of S Australia, PO Box 792, Adelaide 5001. www.bisa.asn.au