Nomenclature

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Shutter-speed dial locking button Depth-of-field preview button Mirror lockup lever Neckstrap eyelet Self-timer LED Backup mechanical release lever Expose memory lock button Lens mounting flange Reflex mirror ADR window Film rewind knob ASA/ISO film speed/Exposure compensation dial Sync terminal Lens mounting index Lens release button Meter coupling lever release button Meter coupling lever Viewfinder illuminator Motor drive coupling Motor drive positioning hole Film rewind button Memo holder Tripod/Motor drive coupling socket Motor drive electrical contacts Battery chamber lid Motor drivecoupling cover Depth-of-field indicators/Mounting ring Focusing ring Aperture ring Meter coupling ridge Finder mounting/release levers Exposure compensation scale Exposure compensation index Film rewind crank Hot-shoe contacts Accessory shoe Camera back lock lever Exposure compensation locking button ASA/ISO film-speed scale Eyepiece shutter lever Viewfinder eyepiece Shutter speed index Aperture/Focusing index Meter coupling shoe Distance scale Aperture-direct-readout scale Viewfinder illuminator button Self-timer lever Self-timer ON index Power switch ON index Power switch Multiple exposure lever Shutter release button Frame counter Film advance lever Shutter-speed scale Shutter speed dial Film plane indicator
14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 10. 11. 12. 13. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

FOREWORD BASIC OPERATION CONTROLS IN DETAIL Shutter speed dial Exposure memory lock button Exposure compensation dial ASA film speed dial Memo holder Shutter release button Film advance lever Frame counter Multiple exposure lever Batteries Backup mechanical release lever Depth-of-field preview button Meter coupling lever Mirror lockup lever Self-timer Eyepiece shutter lever Accessory shoe Sync terminal Viewfinder illuminator Film plane indicator Infrared focusing index ABOUT THE LIQUID CRYSTAL DISPLAY (LCD) EV RANGE OF THE CAMERA ACCESSORIES Interchangeable viewfinders Interchangeable focusing screens Focusing screen selector guide Motor Drive MD-4 Speedlights Other accessories TIPS ON CAMERA CARE SPECIFICATIONS IMPORTANT 2 - 6 - - - - - - - - 45 46

FOREWORD

Congratulations! You now own one of the most advanced and easy-to-use cameras on the market today. With a wealth of exciting new features, the Nikon F3 is designed to be as up-to-date as you are in your approach to photography. However, before actually taking pictures with the F3, you should familiarize yourself with its basic operation as presented in the first section. For more detailed explanations and special picture-taking situations, refer to the second section, CONTROLS IN DETAIL. A few minutes wisely invested now will pay off in years of rewarding photographic experiences.

BASIC OPERATION

1. Remove the battery chamber lid
Use a coin to twist the lid counter clockwise to unscrew it.
2. Install the batteries.
Insert the two l.5V silver-oxide batteries supplied with the camera, making sure that the "+" signs are up.
3. Replace the battery chamber lid.
Slip the battery clip back into the camera body and screw it tightly into place.

4. Move the power switch

to uncover the red dot
This turns the camera on and makes it ready for exposure reading and shooting.
5. Touch the shutter release button

lightly.

This activates the exposure meter. The meter stays on for 16 seconds after you take your finger off the button and turns itself off automatically to conserve battery power.

6. Check battery power.

Look through the viewfinder at the liquid crystal display (LCD). The shutter speed should be displayed to
show that the batteries have been properly installed and their power is adequate. If not, replace both batteries.
7. Mount the lens onto the camera.

Grasp the lens by its mounting ring. Then line up the focusing index ) on the lens with the white dot
) on the camera body and twist the lens counterclockwise until it clicks into place. To remove: Push the lens release button and turn the lens clockwise until it comes off.

8. Open the camera back.

Push the camera back lock lever camera back will pop open. to the right with your thumb while lifting the film rewind knob ). The
9. Install the film cartridge.
Drop the film cartridge into the film cartridge chamber so that the film leader points towards the takeup spool, and push the rewind knob back down into place.
10. Insert the film leader in the takeup spool.
Pull the leader across the camera and insert it into one of the slots in the film takeup spool. Note: The two data back contacts located inside the camera below the film guide rails are for use with a data back available in the future.
11. Wind the film advance lever
to advance film onto the takeup sprocket.
Wind the film advance lever and depress the shutter release button until the film sprockets engage the perforations on the edges of the film.
12. Close the camera back.
Close the camera back until it snaps shut.
13. Take up the film slack.
Fold out the film rewind crank back in. and rotate it in the direction of the arrow until it stops. Then fold the crank
14. Make blank exposure until the frame counter

shows "1."

Continue to wind the film advance lever and depress the shutter release button until the frame counter shows "1." While making blank exposures, watch the rewind knob to see that it rotates. This indicates that the film has been
loaded correctly and is being advanced.
15. Set the ASA film speed.
Lift up the ASA film speed dial
and rotate it in either direction until the white dot is opposite the ASA film
speed in use. Also make sure the exposure compensation dial is set to the red "0." This programs the camera's exposure meter so that it may provide a proper exposure for the type of film being used.

21. Advance the film.

Stroke the film advance lever to transport the film to the next frame and get the camera ready for the next shot.
22. Push in the rewind button
After the last exposure has been made, the film advance lever will stop working. You must then rewind the exposed film back into its cartridge. To do this, first turn the camera upside down and depress the rewind button to disengage the film sprocket drive.

23. Rewind the film.

Lift the film rewind crank and turn it in the direction of the arrow to rewind the film. When you feel the tension lessen, continue winding one or two more turns until the film leader is rewound completely back into the cartridge.
24. Remove the film cartridge.
Open the camera back and take out the film cartridge. Avoid unloading the film in direct sunlight. If there is no shade available, turn your back on the sun and use your own shadow to shield the camera while unloading film.

25. Turn the camera off.

To conserve battery power between takes, return the power switch to the "off" position.

CONTROLS IN DETAIL

In addition to automatic stepless shutter speed control, the Nikon F3 offers manual control of all shutter speeds from 1/2000 sec. to 8 sec. including X, B, and T. To move the shutter speed dial off "A," depress the locking button as you rotate the dial counterclockwise to the 1/2000 sec. setting. You can then rotate the dial freely between any setting except "X" which, like "A," is a locked setting. Shutter speeds from 1/2000 sec. to 1/2 sec. are engraved in white, 1 to 8 seconds and "B" in orange, and "T" and "X" in white. 1/60 sec. is in red, indicating the highest manual shutter speed for proper synchronization with electronic flash except "X." When the camera is on manual, an "M" appears to the left of the liquid crystal shutter speed display inside the viewfinder. In addition, above the "M," the following symbols appear: "-," " + " and "- + " indicating underexposure, overexposure and correct exposure, respectively. To obtain correct exposure, simply turn the shutter speed dial and/or aperture ring until the "- +" symbol appears.
The F3 has two separate settings for time exposures. On "B," the shutter remains open for as long as the shutter release button is depressed. On "T," the shutter stays open until the dial is rotated to another setting, making it ideal for really long time exposures. Being a mechanical setting, "T" will not cause battery drain regardless of how long the shutter remains open. "X" provides a shutter speed setting of 1/80 sec. It is used to provide proper synchronization with electronic flash units other than the Nikon SB- 12. The amount of light reaching the film plane is determined by a combination of the shutter speed and the lens aperture. Since the two are interrelated, different combinations will give the same degree of exposure. A one-step change in shutter speed, or a one-stop change in aperture setting, will either halve or double the degree of exposure. For example, a shutter speed of 1/125 sec. lets in twice as much light as a setting of 1/250 sec., and only half as much light at 1/60 sec. For an aperture setting of f/11, twice as much light as f/16 and half at much as

f/8, is let in. Thus, if the correct exposure for a particular picture-taking situation is 1/125 at f/11, then 1/60 at f/16 or 1/250 at f/8 will give the same exposure. The following table illustrates the interrelation between shutter speed and aperture. Shutter speed (sec.) Aperture (f/number) 1/1/500 5.6 1/1/1/60 16
The best combination will depend on the results you want. Use fast shutter speeds to freeze motion; use slow speeds to produce a deliberate blur. (See the example pictures on the opposite page.). Also, small apertures give greater depth of field, while large apertures restrict sharp focus to the main subject. (See page 26.) A good rule to follow in preventing camera shake is to select a minimum shutter speed which is the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens in use. For example, when using a normal 50mm lens, select a speed no slower than 1/60 sec. (the closest number to 1/50). For a 500mm super-telephoto, use no less than 1/500 sec., and so forth.

(Stop action)

(Subject motion blur)
Exposure memory lock button
When there is a substantial difference between the main subject and the background, unimportant bright spots or dark spots are likely to fool the camera's metering, resulting in under or overexposure (see Fig. 1). One way to make exposure compensation is to use the memory lock. This control allows you to lock in an exposure reading with the camera on automatic control. To compensate for an excessively bright or dark background, center the main subject in the viewfinder or move in close to the subject, depress the memory lock button and hold it in; then recompose and shoot ( see Fig. 2).

(fig. 1)

(fig. 2)
Exposure compensation dial
Another way to correct exposure is to use this dial. Push the locking button while rotating the dial. The dial
is graduated in one-third stop increments. - 1 and - 2 indicate one and two stops underexposure, whereas + 1 and + 2 indicate one and two stops overexposure. At ASA 6400, the compensation extends to only - 1; at ASA 12, up to + 1. The following table indicates the recommended settings for various subjects. After use, make sure you set the dial back to "0." Photographs and pictures with continuous gradation Copy work Documents and drawings of high contrast Compensation not necessary Approx. +1 to +2 stops for black letters on white background; approx. -1/2 to -1 stop for white letters on black background. Approx. +1 to +2 stops Approx. +1.1/2 to +2.1/2 stops for black letters on white background 0 to approx. -1/2 stop for white letters on black background

General film with continuous gradation Slide duplication
Film of documents and drawings photographed

ASA film speed dial

The scale on the ASA dial has numbered settings for speeds from ASA 12 to 6400. Two dots between each
pair of ASA numbers stand for intermediate settings, such as 64, 80, etc. The table below gives the speeds for all intermediate settings.
ASA is a numerical rating of the film's sensitivity to a given amount of light. The higher the number, the greater the sensitivity, and vice versa. The ASA of your film is indicated on the cartridge itself. It is also printed on the film carton and on the data sheet packed inside.

Memo holder

As a reminder of the film type and the number of exposures on the roll in use, clip off the end of the film carton and insert it into the memo holder. Note: At the "B" setting, unless you hold the shutter release button down all the way, the shutter may close prematurely.

Shutter release button

Slight pressure on the shutter release button switches on the exposure meter. Pushing the button all the way down releases the shutter. The shutter release button is threaded at the center to accept a standard cable release. When battery power fails, the F3's electromagnetically controlled shutter ceases to operate. You cannot release the shutter release button unless you use the backup mechanical release lever. To lock the shutter release button when the camera is not in use, turn the power switch to the "OFF" position.

Film advance lever

The film advance lever is specially contoured to fit the thumb and is coaxial with the shutter release button. It has a 30 stand-off with a throw of 140 and may be operated in one complete stroke or a series of shorter ones.

Frame counter

To keep track of the number of exposed frames, the frame counter is graduated from two frames below 0 up to 40. Blue numerals appear every 5 frames (0, 5, 10, etc.) with dots in between. White marks at 12, 20, 24, and 36 indicate the number of frames available on most film cartridqes. When making blank shots with the shutter speed dial set to "A," the shutter will fire at 1/80 sec. until the frame counter reaches "1." In addition, the LCD shows 80 in the finder. Or if you set the dial manually between 1/125 and 1/2000 sec., the shutter will still fire at 1/80 sec. In the finder, an "M80" is displayed. However, if the speed is manually set to 1/80 sec. (X) or below, the shutter will fire at the speed set and the speed will be displayed by the LCD. Therefore, to speed up film loading, set the dial to "A" or to 1/80 sec. (X) or above. "T" should not be used when making blank shots as the shutter will remain locked open.

Depth-of-field preview button
This control allows you to get a visual impression of the various parts of the scene in front of and behind the main subject which will appear sharp in the final photograph (see the photos on the next page.) To operate this control, push the button while looking through the viewfinder. If the lens is set to anything other than maximum aperture, the image on the focusing screen will give you an indication of exactly what will be in focus in the final photo. The image progressively gets darker as the lens aperture gets smaller.

Lens set at f/2.8

Lens set at f/16 At wide apertures, the depth-of-field is very shallow with the main subject in focus. But when the lens is stopped down to f/16, most objects from near to far are in sharp focus.

Meter coupling lever

Push the meter coupling lever release button and lock the meter coupling lever in the "up" position before
mounting a non-AI Nikkor lens. Then perform stopped-down metering in the following manner: For non-AI Nikkor lenses with automatic diaphragms On AUTO: Push in and hold the depth-of-field preview button while you trip the shutter. Caution: If the depth-of-field preview button is not depressed all the way, the mirror may remain in the "up" position. On MANUAL: Select a shutter speed. Then hold in the preview button and turn the aperture ring until the "- +" symbol appears in the finder. Release the preview button and take the shot. For non-AI lenses or accessories without automatic diaphragms On AUTO: Stop the lens down manually until the desired shutter speed appears in the finder. Then take the picture.
On MANUAL: Adjust the shutter speed or aperture until the "- +" sign appears. For fixed-aperture reflex lenses, photomicrography, or astrophotography On AUTO: No control is necessary. On MANUAL: Adjust the shutter speed dial until the "- +" appears.

Mirror lockup lever

When using super-telephoto lenses or doing photomicrography, it becomes necessary to reduce camera vibration to the absolute minimum. To lock the reflex viewing mirror in the "up" position, push in the depth-of-field preview button and rotate the lever counterclockwise until it stops. Note: Two Nikkor lenses require that the mirror be locked up before mounting the Fisheye Nikkor 6mm f/5.6 and OP Fisheye Nikhor 10mm f/5.6. Caution: With the mirror locked up, you should not operate the camera on automatic. Even though the LCD continues to show you the shutter speed automatically selected by the camera, this speed will not produce the correct exposure.

Self-timer

The F3 High-Eyepoint camera's blinking self-timer provides a 10 sec. delay in shutter release. To operate the self-timer:
1. Push the self-timer lever
2. Push the shutter release button.

3. Watch the blinking red LED
on the front of the camera. The LED blinks faster during the final two
seconds before the shutter opens to warn you to get ready.
4. Don't forget to return the selt timer to its oriqinal position after using it. If you want to cancel the self timer after pushing the shutter release button, return the selftimer lever to its original position. The picture then will not be taken.

Eyepiece shutter lever

When it's impossible to keep your eye at tho viewfinder (such as when utilizing the self timer), you should use the eyepiece shutter. This shutter prevents stray light from entering the eyepiece and adversely affecting the automatic exposure meter reading. Just push the lever to the left to close the shutter. As a visual reminder that it's in use, the blind is painted red.

Accessory shoe

Located at the base of the rewind knob, Lhe accessory shoe allows direct mounting of the Nikon SB-12, SB-16A, SB-17 or SB-21A Speedlight. Three electrical contacts provide for synchronization of the flash unit, automatic through the lens flash output control, and ready light indication in the camera's viewfinder (via an LED), plus auto switching to the proper synchronization speed of 1/80 sec. Three Nikon Flash Unit Couplers are available allowing either ISO- or Nikon F2-type direct-mounting electronic flash units to be attached. Caution: 1) For flash photography, it is recommended that you use a Nikon dedicated electronic flash unit which operates with a low-voltaqe current. Use of any other flash which operates af high voltages may damage the camera's circuitry Any damage caused by such use is not covered by the Nikon Warranty. 2) Even with the couplerer, the Nikon Speedlight SB-19, SB-18, SB-16B and SB-E cannot be used with an F3 High-Eyepoint camera when a finder other than the standard DE-3 or Eye-Level Finder DE-2 is used.

Sync terminal

A separate sync terminal with a protective screw-in-cover is provided on the Nikon F3 High-Eyepoint camera. It accepts all standard plug-in sync cords, plus it is threaded for use with a Nikon screw-in sync cord. When using flash bulbs or an electronic flash without a hot shoe, it is necessary to use the sync terminal. Use the following table to determine the correct synchronization speed to set on the camera.

ABOUT THE LIQUID CRYSTAL DISPLAY (LCD)
1. At high temperatures (over approx. 60C), the whole surface turns black so that the exposure information cannot be read. However, this situation will return to normal when the temperature drops. 2. Avoid storing the camera in excessively hot places, such as in a car parked in direct sunlight or inside the trunk. You may shorten the LCD's life by doing so. 3. When the temperature goes below freezing, the response time decreases as the liquid crystal becomes more viscose.

EV RANGE OF THE CAMERA

The camera's meter may be used only within the shutter speed range covered by the exposure value (EV) range of the meter, which varies with the aperture and ASA/ISO settings. The chart on page 35 shows the relationships between the f/stop, shutter speed and film speed, indicating the slowest functioning shutter speed (for metering purposes) with any film speed/aperture combination. Careful attention to the following instructions will assure precise exposure, automatically, over the complete exposure control and meter range capabilities of your Nikon F3 High-Eyepoint camera.
Auto exposure control at full aperture
For example, with an f/1.4 lens and ASA/ISO 100 film, the automatic shutter will function down to one second with the lens set at f/1.4, and proportionately slower as the aperture is closed. However, practically speaking, even if the shutter speed/aperture combination is outside the guaranteed EV range shown in Section C of the EV Chart, you can still obtain good exposures at either the AUTO or MANUAL setting unless "+ 2000" or "8" appears in the viewfinder. Using a standard of ASA/ISO 25 film, you may be assured of at least a four-second speed regardless of the aperture of the lens used as long as the lens is set at full aperture (refer to Table). Using ASA/ISO 400 at f/1.4, the slowest speed is 1/4 second; however, as the aperture is closed down, the functioning shutter speed becomes progressively slower until we reach f/8 when the slowest speed of eight seconds is functioning.
Auto exposure control with stop-down metering
When using a bellows or other extension equipment which disengages the meter coupling device, it is necessary to revert to stop-down metering. Certain limitations are imposed in this mode. As lens-to-film distance is increased, the metering range (EV range) changes proportionately. For example, when an f/2 lens is used at 2:1 reproduction (twice life size) the effective f/number is f/5.6. When used at f/8, the effective f/number is f/22. When pictures are taken under minimal light levels, it is desirable to use a high speed film (ASA/ISO 160 or higher). Using Tri-X at film speed 400 with stop-down metering, with an effective f/number of f/8, the shutter speed range would be from 1/4 second to 1/2000. Should the light level drop below EV 6, it would be out of the shutter speed range of the meter.

ASA/ISO speed (4000) (160) 100 (80) 50 (64) 25 12
Slowest shutter speed (sec.) 1/60 1/30 1/15 1/8 1/4 1/8
Table Slowest shutter speed at full aperture with any lens
How to read the EV chart Full-aperture metering
Example: Lens maximum aperture f/1.4 ASA/ISO film speed 100 Workinq aperture f/5.6 By referring to the f/1.4 column in Section A and the EV values indicated for ASA/ISO 100 in Section D, you will find that the EV range for an f/1.4 lens at ASA/ISO 100 is 1 to 18. Now, refer to Section B and single out the f/5.6 indication for ASA/ISO 100. Go diagonally down until the protruding line intersects with Section C's vertical line for the shutter speed of 8 sec. (the F3 High-Eyepoint camera's slowest shutter speed). From this point of intersection, follow the horizontal line that leads to Section D's EV value for ASA/ISO 100, and you will obtain an EV value of 2. Start again from the f/5.6 indication for ASA/ISO 100 in Section B, and go down diagonally until the protruding line intersects with Section C's vertical line for the shutter speed of 1/2000 sec. (the F3 High-Eyepoint camera's fastest shutter speed) this time. Then follow the horizontal line that leads to Section D's EV value for ASA/ISO 100, and you will get a reading ot EV 16. This means that an f/stop of f/5.6 at ASA/ISO 100 and a shutter speed of from 8 to 1/2000 sec. has an effective EV range of 2 to 16, which is well within the F3 High-Eyepoint camera's metering range ot EV 1 to EV 18. The area encompassed by the heavy lines in Section C demonstrates a metering range for full aperture method using an f/1.4 lens and ASA/TSO 100 film.

Stop-down metering

Example: ASA/ISO film speed 100 Stopped-down aperture f/8 The procedure is the same. The f/8 column in Section A and the EV values indicated for ASA/ISO 100 in Section D will show you that the EV range for f/8 is 6 to 23. Refer now to Section B and single out f/8 at ASA/ISO 100. Go diagonally down until the protruding line intersects with Section C's vertical line for the shutter speed of 8 sec. From this point of intersection, follow the horizontal line that leads to Section D's EV value for ASA/ISO 100, and you will obtain an EV reading of 3. This means that an f/stop of f/8 at ASA/ISO 100 and a shutter speed of 8 sec. give an EV value outside the metering range. To find out the slowest shutter speed usable, follow the f/8 indication for ASA/ISO 100 in Section B diagonally down until it intersects the horizontal line in Section C that leads to Section D's EV value of 6 for ASA/ISO 100, and you will find that the slowest shutter speed usable is 1 sec. In other words, at f/8 and ASA/ISO 100, the available shutter speed range that is within the metering range is from 1 to 1/2000 sec., which has an effective EV range of 6 to 17 (indicated by the broken line in Section C)well within the metering range.
In practice, you will find that it is generally the high end and the low end which require a careful check. The EV range of the Nikon F3 High-Eyepoint camera encompasses most lighting situations, and it is only under dim-light or extra-bright picture-taking situations that you need pay any special attention.

EV Chart

This EV Chart indicates the performance of the F3 High-Eyepoint camera under normal temperatures and gives the usable ranges for all shutter speed/film speed combinations.

ACCESSORIES

Interchangeable viewfinders
In addition to the DE-3 High-Eyepoint Finder, the F3 High-Eyepoint camera accepts various other interchangeable viewfinders. To remove the finder, slide the finder release levers with your thumb and finger towards the back of the camera (Fig. 1), and lift the finder out (Fig. 2). The DX-1 AF Finder provides an electronic focus-aid indication as you manually rotate the lens to obtain correct focus. The DE-2 Eyelevel Finder offers regular eyelevel viewing and is recommended for photographers who don't wear glasses. The DW-3 Waist Level Finder is ideal when you want to use the camera at a low angle or upside down over your head for shooting over crowds. The DA-2 Action Finder works well for those situations when you can't bring your eye close to the finder, such as when you are wearing a helmet or goggles or when the camera is enclosed in a waterproof underwater housing. The DW-4 6X Magnification Finder is for critical high magnification close-up work or photomicrography. Regardless of which finder is attached, you still have full automatic exposure control because the meter is built not into the finder but the body. When using the DA-2 or DW-3, be careful that stray light does not enter from the top and cause an inflated meter reading. Caution: Before attaching the DX-1, the focusing screen inside the comera body must be removed (refer to the next poge).

Fig. 1

Fig. 2
Interchangeable focusing screens
Nikon offers you a choice of 21 interchangeable focusing screens: AU. The type K screen comes with the camera as standard equipment. On the following page is a chart listing all the screens. To take out the focusing screen, first remove the finder, then insert your fingernail under the rear edge of the screen and lift it out (Fig. 1). To install another screen, simply insert the front edge (the edge with the slot in the middle) under the pin and push the rear edge of the screen down into place (Fig. 2). Note: For more information on which screens are compatible with which lenses, consult the instruction sheet supplied with the lens.

Type P: Same as Type K but with split/image rangefinder line at a 45 angle and etched horizontal and vertical lines as an aid to compositon. Rapid and accurate focusing for subject with horizontal or vertical lines or ill-defined contours. Suitable for general photography.
Type R: Same as Type A but with rangefinder prisms of sloping surfaces at a smaller angle and horizontal area vertical lines to aid proper composition. Works best with lenses having maximum apertures from f/3.5 to f/5.6.
Type T: Matte/Fresnel field with spit image rangefinder, 12mm reference circle, and horizontal and vertical lines. Used when preparing slides for TV broadcasts. Dotted lines indicate standard TV screen format. Solid outline shows sale action area whereas broken lines indicate "safe title" area.
Type U: Matte/Fresnel field with 3mm fine-ground matte focusing spot and 12mm reference circle. Utilizes the same matte field as Type B, but with lenses longer than 100mm the image in the viewfinder is easier to see.
With shorter focal-length lenses, this screen is nof suitable because of light fall-off in the corners.

Motor Drive MD-4

One of the most exciting accessories for the F3 High-Eyepoint camera is the Motor Drive MD-4. This amazingly compact, light, and streamlined unit attaches to the bottom of the camera in seconds and advances the film either singly or in sequence up to 6* frames per second making it the fastest regular production motor drive on the market today. Actual controls have been reduced to only those necessary for convenient operation. In addition to the electromagnetic trigger button (which also turns on the camera's meter when depressed halfway), there are its concentric S-C (Single/Continuous) mode selector, a battery check button and LED indicators, two interlocking rewind slides for automatic film rewinding, and a subtractive frame counter which stops the motor at the desired number of frames. Eight AA-type penlight batteries fit into a quick-release clip housed in the base of the motor drive. An optional NiCd battery pack is available for use in cold weather or when you want the fastest possible firing rate. Once you attach the MD-4 to your camera, you'll never want to take it off. The Firing Rate Converter MK-1 is available as a special accessory for a motor-driven F3 High-Eyepoint
camera. It screws into the tripod socket of the MD-4 and plugs into the remote terminal to provide three firing rates1, 2, or 3 frames per second. It has its own handy trigger button for use in vertical format shooting. The Magazine Back MF-4 for shooting up to 250 frames without changing film is also available as an option. Possible with NiCd battery pack at 1/125 sec. or above with the mirror locked up.

Electronic Flash Units

Nikon Speedlights are dedicated electronic flash units and provide the perfect complement to your F3 High-Eyepoint camera. Just set the aperture and flash output is measured through the lens for correct exposures regardless of the lens in use.

Exposure memoy lock Provided; operates on Auto to electronically lock in shutter speed Accessory shoe Provided; special Nikon type located at base of rewind knob; accepts Nikon SB-12, SB-16A or SB-17 shoemounting electronic flash unit or TTL connecting cord from SB-11 or SB-14 for TTL direct flash output control using camera's SPD metering cell Flash synchronization Speeds up to 1/80 sec. with electronic flash; with a Nikon dedicated flash unit, flash sync is automatically set to 1/80 sec. when shutter speed dial is set at "A," or 1/125 sec. or above; flash synchronizes with shutter speed set at slower shutter speed settings; threaded sync terminal provided for off-camera or multiple flash photography Auto flash control TTL direct flash control governs a Nikon dedicated flash unit's flash output using camera's SPD sensor; effective ASA/ISO range from ASA/ISO 25 to ASA/ISO 400 Viewfinder High-eyepoint pentaprism type DE-3 as standard; entire viewfinder image, plus exposure information, visible with the eye located up to 25mm (approx. one inch) away from the eyepiece; interchangeable with five other types: DX-1 AF Finder, DE-2 Eyelevel Finder, DA-2 Action Finder, DW-3 Waist-Level Finder, and DW-4 6X High-Magnification Finder. DE-3 provided with eyepiece shutter; 0.75X magnification with 50mm lens set at infinity; virtually 100% frame coverage Viewfinder display Liquid crystal display (LCD) shows shutter speed; on Auto, + 2000 indicates overexposure, -8- underexposure; on Manual, M appears with + indicating overexposure, - underexposure, and - + correct exposure; LED ready-light glows when Nikon dedicated flash unit is completely recycled; aperture in use also shown through aperture-direct-readout (ADR) window Viewfinder illuminator Provided; illuminates both liquid crystal display and ADR f/number Film advance lever Wound in single stroke or series of strokes; 30 stand off angle and 140 winding angle; shutter speed automatically set to 1/80 sec. until frame "l" for fast loading when shutter speed dial is set to "A" or 1/125 sec. and above Frame counter Additive type, self-resetting Film rewind Folding crank with rewind button in baseplate Eyepiece shutter Provided; prevents stray light from entering viewfinder from the rear Focusing screen Type K as standard; interchangeable with 20 other types
Depth-of-field preview button Provided; coaxial with mirror lockup lever Reflex mirror Automatic instant-return type with lockup facility; incorporates air damper Multiple exposure lever Provided; disengages frame counter for correct count Camera back Hinged, interchangeable type; memo holder provided Power switch Provided Batteries Two 1.55V silver-oxide cells (Eveready EPX76, D76 or equivalent), two 1.5V alkaline-manganese cells or one 3V lithium battery; when MD-4 motor drive is attached, camera gets battery power from batteries in motor drive Dimensions Approx. 148.5mm (W)x 101.5mm (H) x 69.0mm (D) Weight Approx. 760g with DE-3 High-Eyepoint Finder Specification and designs are subject to change without notice.

IMPORTANT!

The camera body you have purchased is packaged separately from the lens. Before mounting the lens, check if it is capable of Automatic Maximum Aperture Indexing (AI) operation with your camera body by verifying that the lens' aperture ring is fitted with a meter coupling ridge as illustrated at the right. Note that the "Ai" mark on thc cover of the instruction sheet provided with AI Nikkor lenses is your assurance that the lens offers the AI feature. If the lens is fitted with the mirror coupling ridge, it is fully capable of full aperture exposure measurement and automatic maximum aperture indexing; to attach it to the camera, follow the directions provided in the BASIC OPERATION section of this instruction manual. If the lens is non-AI, stop-down exposure measurement is required with the camera body's meter coupling lever locked up: to lock up the lever, follow the directions in the "Meter coupling lever" section of CONTROLS IN DETAIL.

ProSeal Instructions for Nikon F3 SLR Please read these instructions completely before you start. Knowledge strengthens confidence, and like most jobs, this is better done right the first time. I think youll find it rewarding and fun, and Ive tried to present the information in these 4 pages in a logical and straightforward fashion. This is a very well-designed SLR, and the job youre doing now is very important in repairing one of its most common problems. Here are some things you may need: (1) a safe surface to work onI like to use a piece of cardboard about 1.5 by 1.5, but you can work on fiberboard, newspaper or anything else handy--the important thing is to protect the surface beneath you. (2) Naphtha (cigarette lighter fluid is the same thing) or denatured alcohol for a solvent. (3) 2 or 3 paper towels. (4) some toothpicks or your bamboo toolif you have access to a wooden cuticle stick, this is a handy tool. (5) a safety razor blade, hobby knife, or small scissors. (6) a small screwdriver (7) a pair of tweezers. Important --Please begin by removing your pentaprism and your focus screen. You may cover your finger with a plastic bag to avoid fingerprints on your focus screen.
As you look inside the hinge area, youll see a small screw there (the middle arrow). Slide it downward, and youll be able to remove the film door. Removing your film door will make our work easier and less cumbersome. You will notice there is a thin fabric seal used for the hinge end seal on this model (red arrow). The arrows on the sides point to the body slot seals, which we will clean and replace later. In this model, there is no seal used at the latch end.
To the leftUsing paper and masking tape, I make a mask to keep the shutter curtains clean. Do not cover the film door slots in the body. In the middle frame, I push a small bit of paper towel or napkin into the slot and saturate it with denatured alcohol. Be careful to start at the film frame reset lever and work away from it, not pushing anything into it or under it. In the right frame, you can see I am using the thin end of my bamboo tool to push the bit of paper towel through the slot to clean it. Repeat for the bottom slot, cleaning all areas of the slots completely.
~~Cleaning the Mirror Damper Area and Installing the New Damper Pad~~
Leftyou can see the mirror damper in this camera consists of a front pad only. In the center, you can see how I carefully remove the old pad using a thin X-Acto type blade. In the last image above, you can see how I use tweezers and a bit of paper towel wet with solvent to make a mop. Below, I am using a bit of paper towel soaked in solvent held by a pair of tweezers to clean the front area. In the middle, you see I have carefully cleaned the foam from the ledge. Then in the final frame to the bottom right, you can see I have placed the new damper pad onto the area where I will check its alignment. This pad measures 2.5mm thick x 4mm wide x 40mm long. Please remember to lick the adhesive side well before you install the piece. This will allow you time to position it as you wish. After about 30 minutes, you can press the piece down for a final set.

NOTE: Please do not place paper or tissue on your mirror in an attempt to keep it clean. This is an amateurs mistake, and it almost always leads to problems. One: You can trap bits of old seal underneath it, and these will be smudged onto your mirror. Two: this gives you a false sense of security, and this is not always a good thing. Three: your mirror could be scratched by the paper. Work like a pro. Try to adopt the attitude of a surgeon or an archaeologist and take the same care.
To the left, please see how I will press the damper seal down after my saliva has dried. Carefully lift the mirror up and use it to gently press down on the damper seal. Please note the mirror is a two-piece mechanism in this camera and use care not to bend or damage it. This is all going very well, isnt it? The F3 is a nice straightforward model to re-seal, and well be finished with our work in a short time. Next, well discuss the hinge end seal
Lets look at the hinge end seal carefully. As you see to the left, this is a thin fabric seal which measures about 1.5mm thick x 3mm wide x 52mm long. The yellow arrow points to a distinct line in this seal. This line is formed by a corresponding ridge on the camera body. In this case, this seal is still doing its job, and really does not need to be replaced. One of the reasons I have gone to such great care and expense to include two thicknesses of self-adhesive fabric seal in the kits I sell is because those seals last a very long time and remain effective over many years without deterioration. In this case, I think I will leave this seal undisturbed. If you wish to replace it, please cut the replacement and remove the old seal by soaking in solvent and carefully removing with your bamboo tool. Installing the new one is a simple matter. Remember to lick the adhesive side first.
Left: I use a bit of paper towel and solvent to clean the edges of the film door. These will have old sticky foam on them, and you dont want this to foul or stick to your new foam. This is actually an image of me cleaning the film door of an F2 model, however this procedure is the same for all cameras.

~~The Body Slots~~

Using a 2mm non-adhesive Seal Strip, begin at the hinge end and push the strip gently into the slot with your fingertip as Ive done in the first frame to the right. The slick (or glossy) side should face outward. In the middle frame, you can see I am following around the curveusing the thin end of my bamboo tool to gently guide the foam into the slot. In the final frame to the right, you see I have trimmed this piece so it will end just at the film frame reset lever, and Im pushing the piece into the slot with the bamboo tool. Ill repeat this for the other side of the slot, and then Ill repeat this for the bottom slot. Once this is done, Ill re-attach the film door and close it. The door will be snug until the new seals adjust to their new settings.

Guess what? Youre finished, and your camera is back to like new condition and ready to enjoy again. ~~NOTES~~ These instructions were given to you as an accompaniment to a general seal kit, or for any of several reasons. You should be able to easily cut your own seal pieces from my seal material, using methods described in my general kit instructions. Your camera is a fine precision instrument, and the materials you are using have been carefully tested to be compatible with its design. You should never use inferior seal materials as a substitute. Using materials which are too thick or too dense could damage your camera, and a professional repair person would never consider doing that. About licking the adhesive firstwhen you do this, you temporarily de-activate the stickiness. This allows you time to position the piece correctly, and it keeps it from sticking to your fingers or tweezers. After 30 minutes or so, you can return and press it down again. Jon Goodman --- 2006