Nikon D70/D70s User's Guide

2006 KenRockwell.com

Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide INTRODUCTION This is how I use and set up my D70. I have a D70; the D70s is exactly the same. I start off explaining things so my mom can understand, and get on to deciphering every menu item for advanced users at the bottom.

Ken Rockwell

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide BASICS: CAMERA Many of these adjustments require you to be in be in the P, S, A or M exposure modes. You set that on the top dial. The cute preset modes often lock out some adjustments. I leave most settings at their defaults and use the Program exposure mode. I never use the cute little preset icon modes because I prefer to set anything special myself. ISO: I use 200. If the light gets dim and my images would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I increase the ISO to 400, 800 or 1,600. I never bother with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D70 looks fine at ISO 1,600 if you need it. I'd much rather have a slightly grainy but sharp image than a less grainy but blurry one. Unlike film, the D70 looks great at high ISOs, so I use them anytime I need them. I would love to use ISO AUTO, but usually don't because it also remains active in Manual exposure mode. This firmware defect defeats the purpose of the manual exposure mode. Using menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for manual exposure mode takes more time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats. White Balance: I use AUTO -3 and use an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I prefer warmer (oranger) images. See more details about how to set these on my D70 Back Panel Controls page and details on why you care at my general White Balance page. QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. This is called NORM and L on the top LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Large (3,008 x 2,000) image size. I've made 12 x 18" prints of the same shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I saw NO difference! Seriously, if you saw these prints you wouldn't be able to sort them out either. I can see only the slightest differences on my monitor enlarged to 100%, which is similar to a 20 x 30" print, and my digital LCD monitor has 100% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don't. Don't worry: if you need space, shoot BASIC and no one will see the difference. The only way to tell is by looking at the file size. I'll use BASIC for parties and sports when I'm shooting many hundreds and hundreds of images at once. In these cases I'm more concerned with time wasted for the files to transfer, copy and archive. Basic looks 99% the same as FINE, even blown up big. I'll use FINE on rare occasions where I'm shooting just a few images and expect to peer at them very closely. In these cases the extra size isn't significant if I expect to be spending a lot of time analyzing each image. I don't use raw, as you can read on my Raw vs. JPG page. I avoid FINE JPG because NORM gives me the same results, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I might run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Missing a shot is a very visible defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon knows what they're doing. That's why they call it Normal and that's why I normally use Normal JPG. OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I prefer the vivid color I get from Fuji's Velvia 50 film, so I tweak my D70 to give color as vivid as I can get. To do this go to MENU > Shooting Menu (camera icon) > Optimize Image > Custom > (set Saturation to + and Color Mode to IIIa) > - - Done > OK. If you forget to select "- Done" and hit OK it won't remember these settings! Details are on the Shooting Menu page.

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide For photos of people I either set the colors back to normal, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the top dial. FOCUS: AF. METERING: Matrix. LENS Many lenses have no switches or settings. If so, don't worry. More advanced lenses have focus mode settings, which will be either "M/A - A," or "A - M" on older lenses. On older lenses I leave it at "A," which is Autofocus. "M" is manual focus. Sometimes you also have to move the switch on the camera, which is a pain. If the switch says "M/A - A" then I use M/A. This gives autofocus, and if I grab the focus ring it instantly lets me make manual corrections. As soon as I tap the shutter button again I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, provides both kinds of focus without ever having to move any switches. It's the best. Non-G lenses will have an aperture ring where the lens is attached to the camera. Set this this ring to the largest number, usually 22, if not 32 or 16. This number will be in orange on autofocus lenses. There usually is a lock to keep this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you'll get an error message from the D70s/D70/D50. MORE These are the basics. Keep reading for far more explicit details at the end.

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide CONTROLS (I explain every button and knob) CONTROLS: FRONT of CAMERA Focus Mode (the little lever at the bottom of the lens marked AF and M [hidden above]): I set it to AF. This means Auto Focus. M means manual focus. In manual focus you have to twist the focus ring yourself and look for a sharp image in the viewfinder. In manual you also can look for the green dot at the bottom left in the viewfinder. The green dot lights up when you're in focus. Depth-of-Field Preview (the little button below the lens in the photo above): Tap this to stop the diaphragm down to the taking aperture. The viewfinder probably gets darker, but look carefully and you can see what's in focus or not. This analog feature is a remnant from film days. Today most people look at the LCD playback. Flash Bolt Button (left side of flash hump, as seen from the rear): This does several things depending on how and when you press it. 1.) If the flash is down, press the flash button and the flash pops up. 2a.) If the flash is up, press and hold the flash button and turn the front dial to change the flash exposure compensation. This sets the brightness of the flash. + makes the flash brighter, - makes it dimmer. This setting only changes the brightness of the flash. It leaves the background ambient exposure alone. Set it to - if your subjects are getting washed out. If you run out of flash power beyond 10 to 20 feet then setting it to + can't make the flash any brighter. If you set flash exposure compensation to anything other than zero you'll see a little "+/- bolt" icon in the finder and on the top LCD. 2b.) If the flash is up, press and hold the flash button and turn the rear dial to change the flash sync mode. You'll see it on the top LCD in the box with the bolt. FLASH SYNC MODES Select these by holding down the flash button on the left side of the flash hump and spinning the rear dial. Your selection is shown on the top LCD in the box with the bolt. Normal (blank, which is the default): In Program and A exposure modes, the shutter won't stay open longer than about 1/60 second. You can change this minimum speed in custom function 21, which defaults at about 1/60 second. I forget the exact default because I have mine set to 1/15. In this mode you won't get blur indoors, but you may not get more than a very black background either. Choose a longer speed, like 1/8, in CSM 21 to lighten the backgrounds indoors, but watch for motion. I usually use Normal mode, since if I don't I can get some scary long exposures if I'm not expecting them in the dark. Red-Eye (eyeball icon): I never use this. It shines an obnoxious light in your subject's eyes for a couple of seconds and then releases the shutter. If I set this mode by accident it bugs the heck out of me, because the camera doesn't go off until several seconds after I've pressed the shutter, but I've set no self timer! It doesn't do much to reduce redeye anyway. Skip this mode. SLOW (called SLOW on the top LCD): This mode is very useful. It lets the shutter stay open as long as it needs to so dim ambient light can expose properly with flash. Of course if it's dark these exposure times can get long. You can get blur from subject motion and camera shake. In daylight

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide SLOW is the same as NORMAL, since exposure times are short. SLOW unlocks the camera in P and A exposure modes to make exposures as long as it wants to in dim light. Have a look at most issues of National Geographic and you'll see many indoor shots made in this mode. The background exposes correctly, people may be blurred, and a burst of flash freezes them along with the blurry ghost images. Normal and SLOW do the same thing in S and M exposure modes, since you or the camera may select any shutter speed in these modes regardless of flash sync. Red-Eye SLOW (eye and SLOW icon): This is the SLOW mode and redeye. I don't use it for the same reason I don't use Redeye. REAR (called REAR on the top LCD): Normally the flash goes off the instant the shutter opens. With long exposures and blurred ghost images you ordinarily get the ghost streaming out in front of the subject. Think about it: if a car is driving, the flash goers off and freezes it, then the car moves forward. You'll have a ghost image ahead of the car, which usually looks stupid. Select REAR mode to have the flash go off as the shutter closes. Now you'll have motion blurring behind the frozen flash image. Another reason to select REAR is because the flash goes off at the end of the exposure. People presume photos are made the instant a flash fires, then leave. This wreaks havoc with long exposures. If you use REAR mode with long exposures they'll stay put and not move until the end. Of course you'll also want to select flash lock to eliminate the preflash. Read about flash lock later on my Custom Menus pages. REAR doesn't do anything with short exposures. REAR also engages SLOW, but SLOW doesn't light up on the LCD. This lack of the SLOW indication is a flaw in the firmware. No big deal. In REAR the D70's exposure setting in Program mode chooses slower shutter speeds and small apertures if you're in daylight. Trick FV Lock Mode: You set this in the Custom Menus. Check it out; it prevents people from blinking with flash!. CONTROLS AND SETTINGS: TOP PANEL From left to right: Exposure Mode Dial (Left side): I use "P" for program auto exposure. In this mode the camera chooses the f/stop and shutter speed for you. If I want to use different apertures or shutter speeds I rotate the rear command dial, which selects alternate combinations of f/stops and shutter speeds which give the same exposure. Nikon calls this "Program Shift." A "*" is added next to the P on the top LCD to let you know you've chosen a different combination for exposure. If you want to use only one aperture or one shutter speed then use S or A mode. If you want to set it the hard way, use M, manual, mode. Metering Mode: Its little icon shows four corners and a central dot. It looks a little like a [ * ]. I use the default of Matrix, which is shown by the four corners. Spin the control knob while holding this button and you can select center weighted (a circle) and spot (a dot). I never use these other modes. * Green Dot (combined with metering button). This resets many of the camera's controls to their defaults when held in along with the other green dot button on the top left of the back of the camera. This is handy at the beginning of each day, since it will reset everything from whatever whacky ISO, white balance, file format and other settings you were using the night before.

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide Power Switch (right side around shutter release): ON, unless the camera is put away in a case. The D70s only wakes up when you tap the shutter, so it's off even when the switch is set to ON. There is no battery drain unless the shutter is tapped and the camera wakes up.The only thing the OFF position does is act as a lock against unintended operation. +/- Exposure Compensation. This makes the picture lighter or darker. Hold it and spin the rear dial to change the brightness of your pictures. Remember to set it back to zero when you're done. If you don't you'll see a "+/-" in the viewfinder and the top LCD. You can read the value of this setting on the top LCD and through the viewfinder, which is great!. See more at How to Set Exposure. Ignore Nikon when they suggest you don't use this with Matrix Metering; I do it all the time. Backlight (button on right with a sun on it): press this to light the top LCD at night. Format (combined with backlight button): Hold this along with its brother on the back left rear of the camera (combined with the rectangle button). You'll get a blinking "For" on the top LCD. Hold both of these again and you'll completely reformat your memory card. Professionals reformat a card each and every time we put a card in the camera. This is because files and structures are sometimes picked up or changed when read with a card reader or used in any other camera. Professionals prefer to be safe than sorry. We don't use cards to archive previous photos. One time I kept saving my winner shots on a card by simply erasing the rest each time. After a few months I started to get errors. These went away as soon as I reformatted the card. Reformatting completely renovates the card. Erasing does not, and may leave the potential for errors. CONTROLS and SETTINGS: BACK of CAMERA From left to right: BKT: I don't use bracketing. This control sets bracketing. Hold it and spin the two control rings on the right of the camera while looking at the top LCD. Rectangles (also doubles as one of the two FORMAT buttons): This controls the frame advance mode. You hold this and spin the rear control dial. When you see [S] on the top LCD you have the normal mode I use, which gives one shot each time you press the shutter. Hold and spin to show rectangles on the top LCD and you're in Continuous mode. In Continuous mode the camera keeps taking pictures for as long as you hold down the shutter button. Pro cameras label the rectangles as C, for Continuous. Spin it some more and you'll see a clock. This is the self timer, in which mode the camera goes off a few seconds after you press the shutter. The mode that shows a narrow black rectangle sets the D70s to respond to the EN-L3 remote control. AE-L AF-L (Top center): Hold this to lock settings while shooting. You can alter what this button does in the custom menus. I get into more details under custom settings for this button. Play [>] Button: Press it to see your pictures. ISO/Checkerboard, WB/?, and QUAL/ENTER/Magnifying Glass Buttons: these do different things depending on whether the camera is taking a picture or showing one. If the camera is idle, or you tap the shutter, the camera is in the taking mode and the buttons do what the silver letters say: ISO, WB and QUAL. If the camera is displaying an image the buttons do what they say in yellow: checkerboard, ? and ENTER. I'll explain each of these as if they are seven different buttons below. Often the camera is in playback mode from the last shot. I need to tap the shutter to put the camera back into taking mode for the ISO, WB and QUAL functions to work. I make it a habit to tap the shutter button first before using those buttons just in case.

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide ISO: I use 200 as explained of the first page. If you just took a picture be sure to tap the shutter button to return the camera to the taking mode. If you don't and are viewing a photo you just made the button will swap among the various multi-image playback modes! WB (White Balance): I use AUTO -3 (A -3) and use an 81A glass warming filter as explained on the first page. See my White Balance page for more details about what this adjustment does and why you care. To choose different settings, press and hold the WB button and turn the rear knob. Look at the top LCD and you'll see the little sun and cloud etc. icons cycle as you turn the knob. To set the D70 to give accurate color under any arbitrary weird combination of lighting you can use a manual white balance mode called PRE(set). It's shown as the PRE icon on the far right of the top LCD, just past the Shade icon. Spin the knob while holding WB until you get to PRE. Release the button. Press and hold the WB button again for several seconds until it makes PRE blink. Point the camera at something white or gray that's in the same light as the subject and press the shutter. If "Gd" flashes you're good. If "nG" (no good) flashes, try again. You can cheat (I do) and point the camera at a broad light source, like a fluorescent fixture, and get great results without having to carry or find a gray or white card. The PREset mode is used to tell the camera what's supposed to be neutral. Once you've set this the camera corrects all the colors to keep neutral grays and whites as neutral grays and whites. This usually gives great colors for everything else in the same light. QUAL: I use NORM - L, or NORMal compression, Large (3,008 x 2,000) JPEG, as explained of the first page. Checkerboard: this lets you see one, four or nine images on the screen during playback. Press the button to switch among these modes. ? / Key: In playback it protects (locks) the image from erasure. Warning 1.): it marks the file so well that it won't empty out of my trash on my computer unless I go in and remark the file on my computer first. Warning 2.): these images are erased from your memory card when you format anyway. I don't use this lock feature. When setting menus the "?" will give more information about your settings. Magnifying Glass: Press to zoom in on image. When you do this you can zoom in more by pressing the checkerboard button and spinning the rear dial. You can use the thumb switch to scroll around the image. ENTER: Used while playing with the menus. Lock Switch: This is the L - dot (lock - unlock) switch below the four-way thumb switch. The dot (unlocked) position lets you move the AF area with the rocker button. The L (locked) position prevents moving the selected AF area. It doesn't lock your ability to navigate the menus, which is a huge advantage over the older professional D1X! I usually leave it in dot to allow me to select different AF areas. Trash Can: Press once, then press again to confirm and delete an image during playback.

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide I prefer my custom settings below because I prefer to leave the chroma cranked all the way up and let the camera automatically control contrast and sharpening as conditions change. Your style of photography will differ. You can look at the images made with each of the canned settings directly to see how you like them. You also can use Nikon's free Nikon View software or look at the data on the D70 itself to read what values of contrast, sharpening, color, etc, were used for each preset. The reason I skip the VIVID preset is because it selects Mode IIIa, but leave the saturation at normal. I explain these below. For photos of people I either set the colors back to normal, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the top dial. As mentioned on the top page, using the preset scene modes on the top dial often override any settings you've made. I only use P, S, A and M modes which unlock all the adjustments. Of course using the top dial's Portrait mode sets the colors optimally for portraits, and sets it all back when I spin that dial back to P, S, A or M. This trick saves me a lot of clicking around under Optimize Image, but also eliminates my ability to alter the White Balance while in the top dial's portrait scene mode. Optimize Image Custom Settings As mentioned on the first page, I prefer the vivid color I get from Fuji's Velvia 50 film, so I tweak my D70 to give color as vivid as I can get. To do this I go to MENU > Shooting Menu (camera icon) > Optimize Image > Custom > (set Saturation to + and Color Mode to IIIa) > - - Done > OK. If you forget to select "- - Done" and hit OK it won't remember these settings! Here are what each setting inside the Custom option of Optimize Image does. Sharpening: I leave mine on AUTO. I've never messed with the manual settings. Sharpening is an artificial effect not to be confused with sharpness. When I first got a digital camera I thought: "cool, I'm cranking this to 11," and realized my error. Don't turn it up for no reason, since the image can start to look artificial. Play with it if you want. I've played with it out of curiosity, and always leave it on AUTO. Tone Compensation: This is Nikon's code word for Contrast. I always leave mine set to AUTO. In AUTO the D70 automatically applies the Zone System and adjusts contrast to match your subject, for each and every shot! The D70 automatically lowers contrast and increases dynamic range for very contrasty subjects, and cranks it up for dull subjects. I've played with the manual settings out of curiosity. Saturation varies a little with contrast, too. If you crank it to +2 it looks vivid and bold for flatter subjects, but when you have a contrasty subject it's too much and blows out. Leave it in AUTO and you won't have to piddle with it. AUTO works great. The CUSTOM Tone Compensation setting (scroll down) is for hackers. If you pay Nikon $100 for Nikon Capture software you can create your own crazy H&D curves and then go out of your way to load them into your D70. Once you create and load them you no longer need the software. Custom curves are way beyond anything with which I want to bother. Real photographers pay more attention to their subject's lighting. Color Mode has three settings: Mode Ia is default. It's Nikon's secret code for standard sRGB. sRGB is the world standard for digital images and the Internet. Mode II is secret code for Adobe RGB, which only hackers use. Adobe RGB gives dull colors when used by anyone other than an expert in color management who prints his own work. Even if you're an expert, if you send your work out for printing, 90% of the time the people doing the printing aren't experts and screw it up for you. Ignore desktop armchair hobbyists who bleat on about the broader color gamut of Adobe RGB. I've created and printed 100% chroma grads in Adobe RGB and sRGB and

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide saw no difference when printed either on Inkjets or on the $250,000 Lightjet 5000 on Fuji Supergloss. Oh well! Using Adobe RGB is asking for trouble unless you really know what you're doing and have complete control over your process. If you have to ask, don't use Adobe RGB. Mode IIIa is secret code for a standard sRGB mode which gives bolder color. I use this all the time. No, I have no idea how Nikon cooked up these numeric designations. Saturation is the vividness of colors. + Enhanced: I prefer violent color, so I crank it up to +. I'd use ++ or +++ if my D70 had it. 0 Normal: For normal people shots you're probably better off with 0. This is the default. There is no AUTO saturation as on the D200, and on my D200 I leave it cranked to + anyway. - Moderate: - tones down the colors, which I've never liked. Moderate sounds like British understatement. In America we call this "dull and boring." Personally I want colors so bright you have to put on sunglasses, or go directly to B/W. Your interests and taste will differ. There is no native B/W mode in the D70. Hue Adjustment: Don't touch this! This rotates all your colors to different spots around the color wheel. If you use this to fix one color it screws up all the other colors. God only knows why this adjustment is here. - - DONE: This is important: after you play with all the above Optimize Image settings you must select "- - DONE" and "OK" for them to be remembered and take effect. I never trust this and go back in and check that my settings took hold. LONG EXPOSURE NOISE REDUCTION (NR): Forget this. It slows the camera frame rate down to half! If you make exposures of a minute or more it will get rid of the minor purple haze in the corners, but in exchange you have to wait around in the dark for another blank exposure as long as your first time exposure! The D70 uses the second exposure as a reference to subtract from the first image to eliminate any camera-induced hot pixels or haze. Engineers call this "dark frame subtraction." You can see examples of this haze on my D200 Dark Exposure page. I've never seen this haze in any real night photography. It only becomes apparent for astronomically long exposures of darkness (pun intended). The D70 isn't smart enough to disable this automatically at normal shutter speeds, so if you forget and leave it on your frame rate slows to a crawl even in daylight. I never use this setting. IMAGE QUALITY: This duplicates half of the QUAL button. I only use this menu if I want to see this on the back of the camera instead of the top LCD. IMAGE SIZE: This duplicates the other half of the QUAL button. I only use this if I want to see this on the back of the camera instead of the top LCD. WHITE BALANCE: This duplicates the WB button. I only use this menu if I want to see this on the back of the camera instead of the top LCD. ISO: This duplicates the ISO button. I only use this menu if I want to see this on the back of the camera instead of the top LCD. I explain the buttons duplicated by these menus here. CUSTOM (CSM) MENU (pencil icon) Press MENU and select the pencil icon to get to the Custom Settings Menu.

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide
First select the "Detailed" mode under Menu > Setup (wrench) Menu > CSM menu, otherwise you'll only to get the first few items!
[R] Menu Reset: This returns everything below to factory default. Play with everything below to your heart's content, since if you do screw anything up this reset will fix it. 01: Beep. For God's sake, turn this to OFF. Beeping cameras annoy everyone and scream "RUDE AMATEUR!" If you insist, set this to ON only in private. 02: Autofocus: Use AF-S (default) for still subjects, and set AF-C (continuous) to track moving subjects, like sports. 03: AF Area Mode: Set Single area (the default) for still subjects. Set Dynamic area for moving subjects. Dynamic Area lets the camera select the AF areas by magic as the subject moves. This really works and is perfect for birds and sports. Use Closest Subject when you hand your camera to a non-photographer. It uses all the AF sensors and guesses that the closest one is your subject. This prevents the common problem with people shots where the camera focuses in the middle, on the wall behind them! 04: AF Assist: This is the little light that helps the camera focus in the dark. Default is ON. Set it to OFF if you're spying on people in the dark and don't want to be noticed. 05: ISO AUTO: This lets the camera increase the ISO automatically as the light fades. I would use it all the time, except that a firmware flaw leaves this active even in manual exposure mode. If you set it to ON you have the option to select the lowest shutter speed the camera will use before it starts to increase the ISO. 06: NO CF Card?: Leave this to LOCK. if you turn it off it will let you take pictures with no card! You accidentally could shoot a wedding and not realize you have no card. When set to ON it locks the camera if you have no card. 07: Image Review: This shows the photo you just took on the monitor after you take it. I set mine to ON, unless I don't plan to look at the monitor after each shot. When you use this remember that the functions of the ISO, WB and QUAL buttons will do things you don't expect after you take a photo, since the camera goes into playback mode for a few seconds after each shot. Because of this I make a habit of tapping the shutter button to return to shooting mode before I make any ISO, WB or QUAL adjustments. Otherwise I often would change something related to playback by accident! 08: Grid Display: These are fine horizontal and vertical lines in the finder. I leave these ON to help me keep my horizons straight. Default is off. 09: EV Step: Your choice of 1/3 or 1/2 stop increments. I prefer the default of 1/3. 10: Exposure Compensation: I leave this in default OFF. This means you have to hold the +/button at the same time as turning the command dial to alter the exposure compensation. If you turn it ON then any turning of the command dial will alter your exposure. 11: Center Weighted: This controls the diameter, in millimeters, of the area of the center weighted meter. I leave mine alone at 8mm, since I never use the center weighted meter anyway. This control allows you to make your center weighted meter see a bigger area to make it more like an averaging

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide meter, or make it smaller to be more like a spot. This setting doesn't have any effect on the spot meter. The spot meter is independent of the center weighted meter. 12: BKT Set: This controls what's changed when the camera brackets. You can change it to alter the white balance, or the exposure, or just the flash or ambient light exposure. I don't use bracketing, so I don't use this. 13: BKT Order: This controls the order of the shots made with bracketing. "Normal" first uses the metered exposure and then the altered versions. You may select instead for it to make the underexposed shots first. I don't use this. 14: Command Dial: You may choose to swap which dial does what when setting manual exposure. I leave it in default OFF/NO. 15: AE-L/AF-L: This sets what the AE-L AF-L button locks when held, and how. I leave mine in AE lock only, since in AF-S the AF locks when I press the shutter half way. I use this lock in strong backlight. I point the camera down at something as dark as my subject, press and hold the AE-L button, point the camera at the subject, press and hold the shutter to lock focus, move the camera again to compose, then release the shutter. This gyration of three camera positions saves me from having to use manual exposure and manual focus. The AE-L button locks exposure and the shutter locks the focus. Slick!
TRICK: Hidden in a screen below the first five options under CSM 15 is a sixth very special option: Flash Exposure lock. This is critical for people and pet shots. Nikon keeps this even more secret by calling it "FV Lock." Scroll down past the bottom of the other five options to see it. Select FV Lock and the AE-L AF-L button becomes the Flash Exposure Lock button. Select this and when you press the AE-L AF-L button the flash goes off to measure and preset the exposure. Now every shot fires the flash at the previously measured level without any preflashes. This 1.) eliminates any shutter release delay and 2.) eliminates any potential for subjects eyes blinking.
16: AE Lock: more of the same. I leave this OFF. If you turn it on it locks the exposure when you hold the shutter halfway. This would mimic cheaper point-and-shoot cameras, but is silly since 1.) the camera has a dedicated AE-L button and 2.) one usually wants to lock exposure and focus on different things. If your subject is conducive to locking everything at the same place you probably don't need locks at all. 17: Focus Area Wrap: I leave this off. If I keep pressing the AF selector in one direction the selected AF area goes to the end and stops. To go from far right to far left I have to go left and pass the center. If you turn this to ON (wrap) you can cheat and get to the left sensor by clicking one more time to the right from the far right sensor! This is too confusing for me, so I leave it OFF (no wrap). 18: AF Area Illumination: This lights up the AF areas in the finder. I leave it at AUTO, in which it turns it on in the dark. OFF never turns it on, which is silly, and ON leaves them on even in bright light, which is stupid. 19: Flash Mode: I leave it in TTL, which lets the built in flash expose properly and automatically. Manual sets the power manually. Commander mode lets you control an SB-600 or SB-800 by magic. I have a page on using the Wireless Flash Modes. If you forget to set it back to TTL the flash goes off, but has no effect on the exposure! Be sure to check this before thinking your camera is defective if your flash doesn't come out in your picture. 20: Flash Sign: Leave this ON. Turning it off extinguishes the bolt in the viewfinder if you need flash. This is more than an idiot light: the matrix meter analyzes the subject's lighting ratio and turns on the bolt when the ratio exceeds the camera's (or aesthetics') dynamic range. This is why you'll see the flash bolt come on even in direct sunlight if you have deep shadows.

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide 21: Slowest Shutter Speed: This sets the slowest shutter speed the camera will use in low light in the P and A modes, in normal flash sync. I set this to 1/8 indoors if people hold still. Default is 1/30. I usually leave it at 1/15. Set this slower to let the ambient light have more effect indoors with flash, and set it faster to stop your kids from leaving weird blurry ghosts behind them. Use a higher ISO to get faster speeds and have the backgrounds fill in with ambient light. 22: Monitor Off Time Delay: This sets how long the rear LCD stays lit each time. I leave it at 10 seconds. Set it longer if you want the screen to stay lit longer without having to hit any keys. Luckily the camera has such great battery life there's no reason not to set it for as long as you like. 23; Meter Off: This sets how long the meter stays on each time you tap the shutter. I leave it at 6 seconds. Set it longer if you like; I've never had any battery life issues with this camera. 24: Self Timer Delay: I leave it at 2 seconds, since I use the self timer to replace a cable release. Set it to 10 seconds (default) for enough time to run to get into a picture. You can set it to 2, 5, 10 or 20 seconds. 25: Remote: This sets how long the camera stays awake ready to release as controlled by the remote infra-red shutter release. If you set this too short the camera may go to sleep and ignore the wonderful little release before you get to pressing it. Set it longer and the battery may run down faster, but I've never had a problem. I set this to 5 minutes. After 5 minutes I'll have to use the rectangles button to set the camera back to remote release mode again. SET UP MENU (wrench icon) Select the Set Up menu by pressing MENU and selecting the wrench icon. Folders: You can create, select and rename folders on your memory card. Normal people never use this menu. The pro cameras have a trick which creates a new folder if you hold the "?" button on power on, but the D70 has no such automatic feature. It's more of a pain to make new folders than it is to sort the images later from the same folder, so I don't bother. Select Folder chooses the folder into which new photos are recorded. New lets you make a new folder and name it. Rename and Delete are self explanatory. File Number Sequence: This lets the camera number your images starting at the last shot you made, even if you've formatted your card. I leave this to ON. If you turn this feature off you'll start from 0001.JPG each time, which is stupid. It's stupid because In time you'll have 150 files all called DSC_0012.JPG on your hard drive. You'll thank me when you try to put together a slide show and don't have to rename them all! Also it lets you keep track of how many shots you've made, since it runs up to 9,999 shots before it resets. Format: this is the hard way to format a card. If I'm in bright enough light to see the dim red FORMAT buttons I use those instead. Professionals always reformat a card every time it's put back into a camera to prevent any potential for card errors. CSM Menu: As I've suggested, set this to Detailed to get the complete Custom Settings Menu. Otherwise you only get a few custom settings. DATE sets the time and date.

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Nikon D70/D70s Users Guide LCD Brightness isn't. LCD Brightness sets the viewing angle for the LCD, not the brightness of the backlight. I leave it on 0. Only play with it if you look at the LCD from odd angles or work in very hot or cold temperatures Mirror Lock-Up isn't. This setting is used to lock up the mirror to clean the CCD. I never use this, since I find it easier to set the camera to Bulb and hold open the shutter. It's not a lock up for telephoto lenses on tripods. Video Mode sets the format of the video output. Use NTSC (525 lines, 59.94Hz) in the Americas and Japan, and PAL (625 lines, 50Hz) in Europe. Language: Set yours to Swedish, then see if you can navigate back to English. Fun! Image Comment: This lets you encode a secret text message into every file. Mine is set to (c) KenRockwell.com with my phone number! You see this text looking at the EXIF data in software on a computer. Our Japanese friends have still not provided us with a real symbol here. You set this by going to MENU > Setup Menu (wrench) > Image Comment > Input Comment > (add your message like you did on 1970s video games) > Enter. If you forget to hit ENTER the Japanese will have a laugh on you, since you have to start over. So sorry! When you get your text message spelled out, go to Attach Comment and hit SET so a small checkmark shows. Now go to and select DONE. If you forget to check Attach it won't attach, and if you forget to hit DONE it will also forget everything you just did. So Sorry! I don't write the firmware. To edit or remove a character, select it in the Input Comment screen by holding the checkerboard button and spinning the rear control dial. Now press the Trash button to delete, or add a new character with the four-way navigation switch and press the WB/?/key button to add it. It's great having everything you shoot have your contact info embedded. It also allows you to prove ownership in a third-world country when catching a thief with your camera. Help the cop go through the menus and read your personal ID information. USB: I leave it at mass storage. Use whichever works better with your computer. Dust Ref Photo is used to take a picture of the dust on your sensor. If you pay Nikon another $100 for Nikon Capture software you can use this to erase the dust more easily from your images shot in Raw. You people know who you are. I don't do this! Firmware Version lets you check the firmware version. This lets you confirm if your camera is upto-date with Nikons' free firmware updates. Image Rotation sets a flag in vertical images which keys most software to display the image vertically. It does not actually rotate the images; it just sets a flag. Someday the camera's firmware will work properly and rotate the image itself, but no camera does that yet. That's It! Enjoy!

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SB-26 (E)

03.1.14 7:16 PM

Page 1

Page 2

FOREWORD
Thank you for purchasing the Nikon Autofocus Speedlight SB-26. Used with Nikons newest SLRs (F5, F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90, F70-Series/N70, F4-Series, F-801/N8008, F-801s/N8008s, F-601/N6006, F-601M/N6000, F50-Series/ N50, F-401x/N5005, F-401/N4004 and F-401s/ N4004s), it offers you the most advanced and complete system for automatic flash photography available. To get the maximum performance from your new SB-26, be sure to take time to read the instruction manual carefully.
For Effective Use of This Manual
Using this manual is simple. Read the pages with shaded index tabs indicating your camera name. These index tabs lead you to all of the information you need to learn about using the SB-26 with your camera. The SB-26 and todays newest Nikon models offer exceptionally high performance. They include more features than ever before, all of which can help you make great pictures. Because there are so many features, the instruction manual is extensive, and may seem a little intimidating. We urge you, however, to thoroughly read the manuals before you begin using the SB-26. That way you will be fully familiar with the features and the way they work. For the convenience of latest Nikon SLR users, the SB-26 offers automatic adjustment functions when used with certain lenses. Automatic operations is detailed beside manual operation in shaded boxes with mark. By becoming thoroughly familiar with the SB-26, you will be able to use its advanced features more effectively and enjoy great results from the very beginning.
F5, F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90 and F70-Series/N70 Users F4-Series, F-801/N8008 and F-801s/N8008s Users F-601/N6006 and F-601M/N6000 Users F50-Series/N50 and F-401x/N5005 Users F-501/N2020 and F-301/N2000 Users F-401/N4004 and F-401s/N4004s Users FA, FE2, FG and Nikonos V Users
The Nikon N70, N90s, N90, N8008, N8008s, N6006, N6000, N50, N5005, N4004 and N4004s are sold exclusively in the U.S.A. The Nikon N2020 and N2000 are sold exclusively in the U.S.A. and Canada. 2
F3-Series, F2-Series, FM2 and FG-20 Users

Page 4

Table Of Contents
For Effective Use of This Manual..2 Table of Contents..Checking Battery Power...23 Adjustment Functions Using LCD Panel and Built-in Functions..Adjusting Flash Head To Horizontal/ Front Position..Using LCD Panel For ShootingDistance Computation.Setting ISO Film Speed (Manual Adjustment).Setting Aperture Value (Manual Adjustment).Setting Zoom-Head Position (Manual Adjustment).For FA, FE2, FG and Nikonos V Users: Choosing A Flash Method/Set Up and Practice.Non-TTL Auto Flash A Mode Shooting with Varied Lens Apertures..Manual Flash D Mode Manual LightOutput Control..Synchronization in Continuous Shooting.90 Repeating Flash G Mode For Multiple Exposure...Conserve Energy and Shorten Recycling Time..Guide Number To Calculate a Proper Aperture..118 Diffusing Light To Soften Harsh Shadow...Bounce Flash Photography..122 Using a Diffuser..123 Close-Up Flash Photography in TTL Auto Flash Mode To Flash On A Very Close Subject..Multiple Flash Photography Using More Than One Speedlights..Wireless Slave Flash Photography..Multiple Flash Photography Using Cord.System Chart for TTL Multiple Flash.Accessories for TTL Multiple Flash.136

3D Multi-Sensor Balanced Fill-Flash photography: particularly effective for subject standing against a shiny object.
FP High-Speed Sync Flash: Allows a wider aperture, thus, shallower depth of field for a blurred background.

Page 14

Rear-Curtain Sync Flash
The combination of high shutter-speed range and flash sync capability provides you with more options for flash photography in day-light conditions. It enables you to use a wider aperture to blur the subjects background (create a shallow depth of field), light up shadowed areas in outdoor photography, or even create light flow for fast moving subjects. FP high-speed sync flash is only available in the SB-26s Manual flash mode when using the F5, F90X/N90s and F90Series/N90. For details, see FP High-Speed Sync Flash Flash Photography At Higher Shutter Speeds on page 98. In normal flash synchronization, the flash fires at an early stage of exposure (i.e., front-curtain sync). At slow shutter speeds with a moving subject, this results in unnatural light patterns. For more natural lighting, use Rear-Curtain Sync. With this method, the flash fires at a later stage of the exposure, just before the rear, or second, shutter curtain starts to close (i.e., rear-curtain sync), turning available light into a stream of light that follows the flash-illuminated moving subject. Rear-Curtain Sync is available with the F5, F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90, F70-Series/N70, F4-Series, F-801/N8008, F-801s/N8008s, F-601/N6006 and F-601M/ N6000. For more details, see Rear-Curtain Sync Flash For Natural Light Flow, page 105 and Flash Sync Mode Selector W vs. q, page 139.

SB-26 sync flash

Y Light output Y Y X: Time duration Y: Shutter curtain movement : Front-curtain movement : Rear-curtain movement : Film surface is exposed to flash light throughout the entire duration. : Film surface is exposed to flash light for only part of the time that the curtain are open.

Front-curtain sync flash

Rear-curtain sync flash
A slow shutter speed could create light flow from a moving subject. Rear-Curtain Sync Flash catches him/her with natural-looking light stream.

Page 16

Red-Eye Reduction Control
Red eye effect occurs in flash photography when flash pictures are taken in dim surroundings where the subjects eye pupils will be dilated (opened very wide). Light from the cameras flash reflects off the interior of the eye through the wide-open pupil and back into the cameras lens; the result in the photo appears as bright red eyes. With this function, before the shutter is released the SB-26s red-eye reduction lamp illuminates to make the subjects eye pupils become smaller, thus reducing the appearance of red-eye. The F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90 and F70-Series/N70 offers this exclusive Red-Eye Reduction Control, for use in any flash mode, except Repeating Flash mode. For more details and setting operation, see page 104, and the cameras instruction manual. Red-eye effect can also be controlled by the angle at which light strikes the subject and is reflected back to the cameras lens. For further details, see Red Eye, page 138.

Repeating Flash

When used with any Nikon SLR, the SB-26 is capable of strobo-effect multiple flash exposure at up to 160 flash per frame; it also allows control of the amount of flash light output. Operation becomes simple once you learn how to match the number and speed of flash to your desired shutter speed. For details, see Repeating Flash G Mode For Multiple Exposure, pages 91 to 96.
SB-26 Feature Comparison: Flash Operations Available with Your Camera
For details regarding your camera, see pages: 1) 33 to 41. 2) 42 to 49. 3) 50 to 58. 4) 59 to 64. 5) 65 to 70. 6) 71 to 76. 7) 77 to 80. TTL Auto Flash 3D Multi-Sensor Balanced Fill-Flash Multi-Sensor Balanced Fill-Flash Matrix Balanced Fill-Flash Center-Weighted Fill-Flash Spot Fill-Flash Programmed TTL Auto Flash Standard TTL Flash Non-TTL Auto Flash Manual Flash Repeating Flash (strobo effect) FP High-Speed Sync Flash Red-Eye Reduction Control Rear-Curtain Sync Flash Flash Exposure Compensation Open Flash Button (test firing) Built-in Wide Flash Adapter Zoom-Lock Capability AF Assist LED Standby Position (power switch) Bounce Flash (built-in diffuser card) Close-up Photography (TTL Auto Flash) Multiple Flash Photography
pa s ge 4s s 50 N N N 00 s es/ es/ s es/ N4 V 90 ri ri ie 8 /N 6 /N ri /N 4 s/ s ies res /N Se Se er 1/N 1s 1/N 1M Se 1x 1/N 1/N 1/N 01 no er ei 0 0X 90- 70- 4-S -80 -80 -60 -60 50- -40 -50 -30 -40 F-4 A E2 G iko 3-S 2-S M2 G2 F5 F9 F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F N F F F F
Repeating flash mode offers strobo effect, multiple exposure on a single frame.

126 136

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Chapter 2

Before Flash Shooting

Page 20

WARNING TO AVOID INJURY
DO NOT FIRE FLASH NEAR THE EYES: Firing the flash light very close to any persons eyes can injure the retina, thereby weakening eyesight or causing blindness. DO NOT TOUCH THE FLASH HEAD WHEN FIRING THE SB-26: The flash head generates significant heat during normal operation, which may cause burns. Also, when using the flash, keep delicate materials away from the flash head.
Getting Started SB-26 Set-Up
This section introduces preparations for using the SB-26, such as installing batteries, attaching flash unit to your camera, and finally, turning the unit on. Follow these steps in order, especially when using for the first time. This section should serve as a practical guide for later reference.

LCD figures and symbols for meters (m) and feet (ft) do not appear simultaneously, as shown above. They are shown together throughout this manual for ease of explanation.
For Nikon F3 Series users The SB-26 can only be mounted on an F3 Series camera that uses a DE-2 or DE-3 finder. Be sure to attach Flash Unit Coupler AS-4 or AS-7 to the cameras accessory shoe before mounting the SB-26 on the camera. 22
Precaution for Nikon F5, F90X/N90s, F90Series/N90 and F70-Series/N70 users As the locking wheel is tightened, the SB-26 is firmly attached to the accessory shoe with the mount pin. Be extra careful that the locking wheel is completely loosened before removing the flash unit from the camera or it may cause damage to both units.
Replace batteries with a fresh set: With alkaline-manganese batteries replace if readylight takes more than 30 sec. to light up. With NiCd batteries remove if ready-light takes more than 10 sec. to light up. 23

Page 24

Adjustment Functions Using LCD Panel and Built-in Functions
Tilting/rotating flash head, built-in zoom head, LCD panel and control buttons for aperture/distance computation. The SB-26 features many convenient functions. Proper use will help you perform successful flash photography in every situation. Before practice, you should understand the adjustments and reasons behind them. Once you have learned them, you can make the most of the SB-26 for all kinds of flash techniques. Operation can be controlled manually or automatically, depending on which Nikon SLR model is used. Manual operation is described for each feature, then automatic adjustment features are described within the boxed sections (with a mark). Before proceeding: E ATTACH SPEEDLIGHT TO CAMERA. E TURN ON BOTH SPEEDLIGHT AND CAMERA.
Adjusting Flash Head To Horizontal/Front Position
In normal shooting situations, the flash head should face straight forward, tilted in the horizontal position. A tilted/rotated head can be used for special techniques such as close-ups or bounce flash photography.
Tilting/Rotating flash head to a position other than horizontal and straight forward Downward-tilted flash head (-7 position) is used for taking pictures of subjects at a distance of less than 1.5m (approx. 5 ft.). When the head is set at this position, the distance indicator bars / blink. An upward-tilted and/or rotated flash head is used for bounce flash photography. When the head is set this way, the distance indicator bars / do not appear, to show the distance indication function is not available. See Diffusing Light To Soften Harsh Shadows, pages 119 to 123, for information on bounce flash photography. 24
Tilt the flash head to the horizontal, until it click-stops.

Flash Methods: F-801s/N8008s Settings and Lenses
Cameras Metering System Lens in Use 1) Cameras Exposure Mode Matrix Programmed auto (PD, P, PH) Shutter-priority auto (S) Aperture-priority auto (A) Manual (M) Aperture-priority auto (A) 5) Manual (M) CenterWeighted Spot
AF Nikkor lenses 3) AI-P lenses
Center- Standard Matrix Balanced Weighted TTL Flash Fill-Flash Fill-Flash
Matrix Balanced FillFlash

CenterWeighted FillFlash

Center- Spot FillMatrix Balanced Weighted Flash Fill-Flash Fill-Flash
AF Teleconverter/ Aperture-priority AF Nikkor auto (A) 4) lenses for F3AF/AItype Nikkor lenses Manual (M) (including AI-S) Programmed auto (P, PH) Shutter-priority Other lenses auto (S) Aperture-priority auto (A) Manual (M)
Other lenses Center- Standard Matrix Balanced Weighted TTL Flash Fill-Flash Fill-Flash
Center-Weighted Fill-Flash 6)

Other lenses

Center-Weighted Fill- Spot FillFlash 6) Flash
1) Suitable lenses and use depend on the camera; see instruction manual for information. 2) With AE Action Finder DA-20, Center-Weighted Fill-Flash and Standard TTL Flash can be used. With Waist-Level Finder DW-20 and 6x High-Magnification Finder DW-21, because Matrix and Center-Weighted metering systems cannot be used, only Standard TTL Flash can be used. 3) Includes the latest D-type Nikkor lenses, but excludes AF lenses for F3 Series cameras.
4) Exposure mode (P, PH or S) automatically shifts to aperture-priority auto (A). Set desired aperture manually. 5) Exposure mode (PD, P, PH, or S) automatically shifts to aperture-priority auto (A), shown by the blinking mode indication in the cameras LCD panel. Set desired aperture manually. 6) Matrix metering system automatically shifts to Center-Weighted, as shown by the blinking indication in the cameras LCD panel. Only Center-Weighted FillFlash is available.
Flash Methods in TTL Auto Flash Mode HJ Matrix Balanced Fill-Flash HJ Center-Weighted Fill-Flash HJ Spot Fill-Flash H Standard TTL Flash 42

Page 44

Some operations can be controlled automatically when the camera uses an AF Nikkor lens (including the latest D-Type) or Nikkor lens having a built-in CPU. In other cases, operate manually. Note that the following instructions describe a situation where you are using either a D-type Nikkor, an AF Nikkor (except for F3AF) or an AI-P lens. Before proceeding: E ATTACH SPEEDLIGHT TO CAMERA. E TURN ON BOTH SPEEDLIGHT AND CAMERA. E USE SINGLE-SERVO AUTOFOCUS (S) OR MANUAL FOCUS (M). E USE SINGLE-FRAME SHOOTING (S) FILM ADVANCE MODE.
Appears for fully automatic fillflash; disappears for Standard TTL Flash.

3 Flash sync

To perform Matrix Balanced, Center-Weighted or Spot Fill-Flash, confirm J appears in the LCD panel. To perform Standard TTL Flash, press the button so that J disappears. Choose p (flash mode selector position). Confirm H in the LCD panel. Choose W position (flash sync mode selector).

Viewfinder prompt: Use flash or not When the SB-26 is attached to the camera but turned off, the cameras viewfinder ready-light g blinks to suggest you use a flash. You can reject or ignore the prompt simply by leaving the SB-26s power off (g continues blinking). 71

Page 72

Chapter 3 TTL Auto Flash H Mode: For F-401/N4004 and F-401s/N4004s Users
TTL Auto flash mode H with F-401/N4004 and F-401s/N4004s
Lens in Use 1) Cameras Exposure Mode Programmed auto (A/S) Shutter-priority auto (S) Aperture-priority auto (A) Manual (M)
1) Suitable lenses and use depend on the camera; see instruction manual for information. 2) Except AF lenses for F3AF cameras. For Programmed TTL Auto Flash, use only AF Nikkor lenses (including latest D-Type), except AF Nikkor 80mm f/2.8, 200mm f/3.5 IF-ED and Autofocus Converter TC-16/TC-16A.

SB-26 Flash

Programmed TTL Auto Flash
When camera is set at programmed auto (A/S) or shutterpriority auto (S) exposure mode, it automatically switches into Programmed TTL Auto Flash. Before proceeding, be sure to: E ATTACH SPEEDLIGHT TO CAMERA. E TURN ON BOTH SPEEDLIGHT AND CAMERA. E SET LENS TO MINIMUM APERTURE (HIGHEST FNUMBER). E USE FILM WITH A SPEED BETWEEN ISO 25 AND ISO 400. E USE AN AF NIKKOR LENS (including the latest D-Type Lens, but excluding AF Nikkor 80mm f/2.8, 200mm f/3.5 IF-ED and Autofocus Converters TC-16/TC-16A).

1 Flash mode

Set ISO speed of the film in use. Usable film speeds are ISO 25 to ISO 400. For instruction, see Setting ISO Film Speed (Manual Adjustment), pages 27 to 28. Set the built-in zoom head position.

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Setting Up Your Camera Confirming Settings Guide to determining aperture Use these suggestions as a guide for choosing aperture.
In programmed auto (ISO 100) For subjects backlit by the sun For outdoor subjects on a sunny day For subjects beside a bright window For indoor subject In shutter-priority auto For subjects backlit by the sun f/16 at 1/100 sec. f/8 at 1/100 sec. f/5.6 at 1/100 sec. f/5.6 at 1/30 sec. f/16 f/8 f/5.6 f/5.6
Select one of the following exposure modes: a. Programmed auto (A/S) to perform Programmed TTL Auto Flash. b. Shutter-priority auto (S) to perform Programmed TTL Auto Flash. c. Aperture-priority auto (A) to perform Standard TTL Flash. d. Manual exposure mode to perform Standard TTL Flash. Perform other settings: a. For shutter-priority auto, set desired shutter speed*. b. For aperture-priority auto, set desired aperture. c. For manual exposure mode, set desired shutter speed* and aperture.
For instruction, see Setting Aperture Value (Manual Adjustment), pages 28 to 29. In programmed auto and shutter-priority auto exposure mode, set an aperture using the Guide to determine aperture in the following page. In aperture-priority auto or manual exposure mode, set the aperture value that you have set on the camera (from step 6). Once aperture is set, indicator bars / show the shooting distance range for that setting.

Set aperture in use.

For instruction, see Setting Aperture Value (Manual Adjustment), pages 28 to 29. Shooting indicator bars / in the LCD panel move as the figure input changes. Determine approximate flash-shooting distance range by reading indicator bars.
Look into camera viewfinder, compose and lightly press the shutter release button. Confirm ready-light has come on and subject is in focus. Check if ready-light is on in cameras viewfinder g or on the SB-26.
Quick reference on relationship between usable apertures and flash shooting distance Use table on page 146 in this instruction manual. 78 79

Page 80

Non-TTL Auto Flash A Mode Shooting with Various Lens Apertures
To use various lens apertures for the same subject or when camera/lens combination is incompatible with TTL Auto Flash mode, set the SB-26s flash mode selector to u for Non-TTL Auto Flash operation. In Non-TTL Auto Flash shooting, light output automatically changes to match the flash-to-subject distance, but instead of light being measured through the lens, it is measured by the light sensor on the front of the SB-26. The SB-26 can be used in Non-TTL Auto Flash mode with any Nikon camera/lens combination. Before proceeding: E ATTACH SPEEDLIGHT TO CAMERA. E TURN ON BOTH SPEEDLIGHT AND CAMERA. E USE APERTURE-PRIORITY AUTO OR MANUAL EXPOSURE MODE. E USE SINGLE-SERVO AUTOFOCUS (S or A) OR MANUAL FOCUS (M). Set Up and Practice

selector at Non-TTL Auto

3 ISO film
speed in use and zoom-head position

4 Aperture

APPLICABLE NIKON SLR MODELS F5 E F-601M/N6000 E FE2 F90X/N90s E F50-Series/N50 E FG F90-Series/N90 E F-401x/N5005 E Nikonos V F70-Series/N70 E F-501/N2020 E F3-Series F4-Series E F-301/N2000 E F2-Series F-801/N8008 E F-401/N4004 E FM2 F-801s/N8008s E F-401s/N4004s E FG-20 F-601/N6006 E FA E

E E E E E E E

5 Appears when flash is fully charged and ready
to fire. Push for test firing. Blinks after firing indicates possible underexposure.

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Chapter 3 Non-TTL Auto Flash A Mode
Choose u position (flash mode selector). Confirm A appears in the LCD panel. Choose W position (flash sync mode selector*).

F90X/N90s viewfinder

* q position is used for Rear-Curtain Sync Flash, and only with the F5, F90X/N90s, F90Series/ N90, F70-Series/N70, F4-Series, F-801/N8008, and F-801s/N8008s. For details, see page 105.

Set ISO film speed and position the built-in zoom head. For instructions, see Setting ISO Film Speed (Manual Adjustment), pages 27 to 28, and Setting Zoom-Head Position (Manual Adjustment), pages 29 to 30.
Set desired aperture in the SB-26s LCD panel, then set again on the camera. For instructions, see Setting Aperture Value (Manual Adjustment), pages 28 to 29. Indicator bars / show a appropriate shooting distance range.
Push button for a test firing (see page 110) when you are not sure whether subject is within the flash shooting range. If ready-light blinks for a few seconds after test firing, flash has fired at its maximum output but light might not have been sufficient. Select a wider aperture or move closer to subject.
Look into the camera viewfinder, compose and lightly the press shutter release button to confirm that subject is in focus. Check that ready-light is on in the cameras viewfinder g or on the SB-26.

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Manual Flash i Mode Manual Light-Output Control
With the SB-26s flash mode selector at i, you can perform manual flash photography. For manual flash photography, it is important to choose an appropriate aperture and shooting distance to achieve your desired effect. To help approximate these variables, you can use the SB-26s LCD panel and control buttons as a calculator, or use guide numbers (see page 118). To enhance this feature, the SB-26 lets you manually adjust flash output levels from full power (1/1) to 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, 1/64, and FP1 and FP2. Before proceeding: E ATTACH SPEEDLIGHT TO CAMERA. E TURN ON BOTH SPEEDLIGHT AND CAMERA. E USE APERTURE-PRIORITY AUTO OR MANUAL EXPOSURE MODE. E USE SINGLE-SERVO AUTOFOCUS (S or A) OR MANUAL FOCUS (M). E USE SINGLE-FRAME SHOOTING (S) FILM ADVANCE MODE.
Exposure compensation Exposure compensation in Non-TTL Auto Flash mode is achieved by purposely setting a different aperture value on the camera (actually on the lens in most cases) than on the SB-26. Use an aperture 1/3 to one stop smaller for an entirely dark background (low reflectance). For backgrounds that include a highly reflective object, use an aperture 1/3 to one stop larger. Note that shooting distance range indication / corresponds to the aperture value set on the SB-26 not on the camera. In general, you may want to take a series of pictures using exposure bracketing.
If ready-light blinks for a few seconds after shooting, flash has fired at maximum output but the light may have been insufficient. Reconfirm shooting distance and, if necessary, move closer to subject or select a wider aperture to compensate underexposure.

E E E E E E E 85

Page 86
Chapter 3 Manual Flash i Mode

at Manual Flash

at Repeating Flash

5 Flash
speed per sec. (in hertz)

3 Zoomhead position

8 Aperture
AA-type alkalinemanganese (four sets)

AA-type NiCd (four sets)

SD-8 (when used with NiCd batteries)

6 Number of flash

per frame

Page 92

Chapter 3 Repeating Flash G Mode
Choose G position (flash mode selector). Confirm D and G appear in the LCD panel. Choose W position (flash sync mode selector*).
* q position is only used for Rear-Curtain Sync Flash in TTL Auto H, NonTTL Auto A and Manual D Flash, and only with the F5, F90X/N90s, F90Series/ N90, F70-Series/N70, F4-Series, F-801/N8008, and F-801s/N8008s. For details, see page 105.
Set the built-in zoom head position.
Automatic zoom-head position adjustment: F5, F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90, F70-Series/ N70, F4-Series, F-801/N8008, or F-801s/N8008s used with an AF Nikkor lens (including the latest D-Type) or Nikkor lens having a built-in CPU The zoom-head position in use is automatically set and indicated in the SB-26s LCD panel. For other lenses, set manually according to the shooting situation. See Setting Zoom-Head Position (Manual Adjustment), pages 29 and 30.
For instructions, see Setting Zoom-Head Position (Manual Adjustment), pages 29 to 30. Press button to choose desired light output.
You can choose an amount ranging from one eighth of full power (1/8) to one sixty-fourth (1/64). LCD indications change as: - j - k - l -; -.
Press until a number (flash speed per second) starts blinking beside d. Use or to set a desired flash speed. See Determining shutter speed with number/speed of flashes on page 93.
Press again until a number (flashes per frame) starts blinking beside center hyphen -. Use or to set the desired number. The maximum number of flashes per frame depends on light-output amount and flash speed. If two hyphens - blink, the available number of flashes is fixed (no other choice). For details, see the chart below.
Number of repeating flashes per frame (shown with blinking hyphens - -) : Figures indicate use with External Power Source SD-7 or SD-8 Light output amount Flash speed per second j k l ; Hz Hz Hz 80 40

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F90X/N90s LCD panel
Set desired shutter speed and aperture on the camera.
Choose B (bulb) setting or a shutter speed long enough to accommodate the flash you will fire. For calculations, see at right, Determining shutter speed with number/speed of flashes. Use a tripod to minimize camera shake.

10 Aperture value

Confirm the zoom-head position has been set and appears in the SB-26s LCD panel. The zoom-head position is automatically set and indicated in the SB-26s LCD panel when the camera is used with an AF Nikkor lens (including the latest D-Type) or a Nikkor lens having a built-in CPU. Or, set manually according to the shooting situation (see page 29). DO NOT USE THE WIDE FLASH PANEL (zoom head at the 20mm or 18mm position). When used, m 20 or m 18, D and F blink in the LCD panel as an alert.

Page 100

Chapter 4 FP High-Speed Sync Flash
Press button until F appears in the LCD panel, and confirm 1 or 2 appears in the light amount indicator while LCD indication changes: - h - ' - " - j k - l - ; - 1 - 2 -. Next, choose either 1 for FP1 flash operation or 2 for FP2. Detaching the SB-26 When you take off the Speedlight from the F5, F90X/N90s or F90-Series/N90 to use it with another camera, be sure to cancel FP flash operation by pressing the button: confirm F disappears from the LCD panel. If it is removed with FP setting, F blinks a warning. The SB-26 will not function normally with the FP setting when mounted to any model other than the F5, F90X/N90s or F90-Series/N90. 100
Choose a shutter speed* from 1/250 to 1/4000 sec. on the camera
* Although any shutter speed can be used, an uneven exposure may result with speeds outside this range.
Set your desired aperture on the camera. Focus on the subject.
Look into camera viewfinder and compose shot while lightly pressing the shutter release button.
Confirm aperture and shutter speed in the cameras viewfinder. Check whether subject is focused by using the in-focus indicator !.
Shifting to other mode Shutter speed is automatically locked at 1/250 sec., if you have set a shutter speed at 1/250 sec. or faster, then you perform one of the following: a. Switch exposure mode to programmed auto on the camera, or b. Change from FP High-Speed Sync to another flash operation on the Speedlight.
Set the aperture value (from step 7) in the SB-26s LCD panel. See Setting Aperture Value (Manual Adjustment), pages 28 to 29. The aperture value is automatically set and indicated in the SB-26s LCD panel when the camera is used with an AF Nikkor lens (including the latest D-Type) or a Nikkor lens having a built-in CPU. An indicator bar / appears to show the appropriate shooting distance.
In a bright scene After you have adjusted the camera/flash-to-subject distance (with subject standing at the location represented by indication bar /), readjust indicator bar (from step 11) to the left by one or two steps so the bar indicates a position closer than the actual subject location. Experience indicates that a small amount of underexposure may result in a more pleasing photograph. To readjust the indicator bar, perform one or a combination of the following adjustments: 1) Pressing button to switch from FP1 (F with 1) to FP2. 2) Moving further from the subject. 3) Choose a different number for the zoom-head position (wider angle of coverage). We recommend that you not manipulate shutter speed and aperture on the camera.

FP2 guide number (at ISO 100; for meters/feet) Shutter speed 1/250 1/500 1/1000 1/2000 1/4000 Zoom-head position 24mm 28mm 35mm 50mm 70mm 10/33 11/36 12/39 14/46 16/52 7/23 7.5/25 8.5/28 10/33 11/36 5/16 5.3/17 6/20 7/23 8/26 3.5/11 3.7/12 4.2/14 5/16 5.6/18 2.5/8.2 2.6/8.5 3/10 3.5/11 4/13 85mm 17/56 12/39 8.5/28 6/20 4.2/14
Using a film speed other than ISO 100 For film speeds other than ISO 100, multiply the above figures by the factors shown in the following chart. If the film speed in the previous example had been ISO 400 rather than ISO 100: 12 [flash-shooting distance] = 4 x 2 = 3 x 2 = 6 if measuring in feet; 39 [flash-shooting distance] = 4 x 2 = 9.75 x 2 =19.5 You should have obtained 6 meters, or 19.5 feet, for correct exposure.
Adjustment factors for other ISO film speeds ISO film speed Factor 25 x 0.x 0.xx 1.xx 2.x4

Page 104

Red-Eye Reduction Control For Better Flash Portraits
Light from the cameras flash reflects off the interior of the eye through the wide-open pupil and back into the cameras lens. The result is a portrait with the subjects eyes bright red, a phenomenon known as red-eye effect. When used with the F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90 and F70-Series/N70 camera, the SB-26s red-eye reduction lamp lights for a moment before the flash fires and the picture is taken. Red-eye effect can also be affected by the angle at which light flash on the subject and is reflected back to the lens. For further details on red eye, see page 138. Before proceeding: E ATTACH SPEEDLIGHT TO CAMERA. E TURN ON BOTH SPEEDLIGHT AND CAMERA. E USE SINGLE-SERVO AUTOFOCUS (S or A) OR MANUAL FOCUS (M). E USE SINGLE-FRAME SHOOTING (S) FILM ADVANCE MODE. APPLICABLE NIKON SLR MODELS F5 F-601M/N6000 FE2 F90X/N90s E F50-Series/N50 FG F90-Series/N90 E F-401x/N5005 Nikonos V F70-Series/N70 E F-501/N2020 F3-Series F4-Series F-301/N2000 F2-Series F-801/N8008 F-401/N4004 FM2 F-801s/N8008s F-401s/N4004s FG-20 F-601/N6006 FA 104 Hints and Notes
Rear-Curtain Sync Flash For Natural Light Flows
When used with the F5, F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90, F70-Series/N70, F4-Series, F-801/ N8008, F-801s/N8008s, F-601/N6006 and F-601M/N6000 camera, the SB-26 lets you synchronize the flash to the instant before the rear (second) curtain begins to close. This turns available light into a stream of light that follows the moving, flash-illuminated subject. Rear-curtain sync flash photography is most effective with slower shutter speeds. You can slow the shutter down to 30 sec., depending on the background situation. Before proceeding: E ATTACH SPEEDLIGHT TO CAMERA. E TURN ON BOTH SPEEDLIGHT AND CAMERA. E USE SHUTTER-PRIORITY AUTO OR MANUAL EXPOSURE MODE. E USE SINGLE-SERVO AUTOFOCUS (S or A) OR MANUAL FOCUS (M). APPLICABLE NIKON SLR MODELS F5 E F-601M/N6000 E FE2 F90X/N90s E F50-Series/N50 FG F90-Series/N90 E F-401x/N5005 Nikonos V F70-Series/N70 E F-501/N2020 F3-Series F4-Series E F-301/N2000 F2-Series F-801/N8008 E F-401/N4004 FM2 F-801s/N8008s E F-401s/N4004s FG-20 F-601/N6006 E FA Hints and Notes Select TTL Auto H, Non-TTL Auto A or Manual D Flash mode. Choose q position (flash mode selector). With the F-601/N6006 and F-601 M /N6000, you must select REAR-CURTAIN SYNC FLASH on the camera. This sync flash then operates regardless of the SB-26s sync mode setting, either W or q position. With the F5, F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90 or F70-Series/ N70, although it is possible to select REAR-CURTAIN SYNC FLASH on the camera, the SB-26s sync mode setting will override what is set on the camera. With the F5, F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90, F70-Series/N70, F-601/N6006 or F-601M/ N6000 used in programmed auto or aperture-priority auto exposure mode, the camera automatically controls the shutter speed down to as slow as 30 sec. In the following cases Rear-Curtain Sync Flash cannot be performed: 1) When using Vari-Program or Red-Eye Reduction Control with an F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90 or F70Series/N70 camera. 2) When performing multiple flash photography with an F5, F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90, F70-Series/N70, F4Series, F-801/ N8008 or F-801s/ N8008s. 3) When shutter speed dial is set at T with an F4Series camera. Use a tripod to minimize camera shake. 105

APPLICABLE NIKON SLR MODELS F5 E F-601M/N6000 E FE2 F90X/N90s E F50-Series/N50 E FG F90-Series/N90 E F-401x/N5005 E Nikonos V F70-Series/N70 E F-501/N2020 E F3-Series F4-Series E F-301/N2000 E F2-Series F-801/N8008 E F-401/N4004 E FM2 F-801s/N8008s E F-401s/N4004s E FG-20 F-601/N6006 E FA E 112 E E E E E E E
Press and buttons simultaneously for a few seconds until m indication starts blinking.
Next, press button only to set desired zoom-head position. This position remains locked as long as the m indication continues blinking.
Press and buttons simultaneously for a few seconds until the previously set number and the m indication start blinking.
Press only button to set your desired zoom-head position. To resume automatic adjustment with certain camera/lens combinations (see page 30), press button until the m indication above z disappears.
To unlock, press the same buttons simultaneously for a few seconds until the m indication stops blinking or totally disappears. Automatic zoom-head position adjustment: F5, F90X/N90s, F90-Series/N90, F70-Series/N70, F4Series, F-801/N8008, or F-801s/ N8008s used with an AF Nikkor lens (including the latest D-Type) or Nikkor lens having a built-in CPU The SB-26 automatically adjusts the zoom-head position to provide an angle of coverage that matches the focal length of the lens in use. For details, see page 30.

Page 114

AF Assist LED Autofocus Flash Photography in Dim Light
The SB-26s AF assist LED enables you to perform autofocus flash photography in dim light or even total darkness with some Nikon AF cameras. When ambient light is insufficient for autofocus operation, the AF illuminator automatically turns on to start operation and give contrast to a dark subject, allowing the cameras autofocus system to function as though it were daytime. If ambient light is sufficient, the AF illuminator does not light up. Before proceeding: E ATTACH SPEEDLIGHT TO CAMERA. E TURN ON BOTH SPEEDLIGHT AND CAMERA. E USE SINGLE-SERVO AUTOFOCUS (S or A) E USE SINGLE-FRAME SHOOTING (S) FILM ADVANCE MODE E FOR F5, SELECT CENTER FOCUS AREA Hints and Notes In Rear-Curtain Sync Flash with the F-601/N6006, a light pattern from the AF assist LED sometimes affects the picture. To prevent this, confirm that the LED light pattern has disappeared before shooting.
Usable autofocus lenses are: With Nikon F-501/N2020: AF Nikkor lenses from 35mm to 105mm (including the latest D-Type) With other cameras: AF Nikkor lenses from 24mm to 105mm (including the latest D-Type)
Notes on AF assist LED Autofocus distance range with AF assist LED depends on the lens in use and subjects reflection ratio. For example, with an AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 lens (including the latest D-Type lens) and a subject having 35% reflection ratio, you can perform autofocus from approx. 1m (3.3 ft.) to approx. 8m (16.4 ft.), at 20C (68F). If the ready-light does not stay on after the AF assist LED activates, replace batteries.

Check that the SB-26s ready-light has come on. Lightly press the cameras shutter release button to activates the AF illuminator LED. Do not use autofocus lock function.
APPLICABLE NIKON SLR MODELS F5 E F-601M/N6000 FE2 F90X/N90s E F50-Series/N50 E FG F90-Series/N90 E F-401x/N5005 E Nikonos V F70-Series/N70 E F-501/N2020 E F3-Series F4-Series E F-301/N2000 F2-Series F-801/N8008 E F-401/N4004 E FM2 F-801s/N8008s E F-401s/N4004s E FG-20 F-601/N6006 E FA 114
Confirm whether in-focus indicator LED ! in the cameras viewfinder appears. If the in-focus indication does not appear inside the viewfinder, the subject is beyond the autofocus distance range (see at right Notes of AF assist LED); focus manually on the clear matte field.

Page 116

Power Switch Standby (STBY) Position To Conserve Energy and
Setting the power switch to STBY position turns on the SB-26, but the SB-26 will also automatically shut off to conserve flash battery energy. When you will not use the SB-26 for a long time, however, it is recommended to set the power switch to OFF. Hints and Notes

Shorten Recycling Time

When using a remote cord with the FA or FE2 connected to Nikon Motor Drive MD-12, camera remains on as long as the MD-12s power switch is on. In this case, the SB-26 will not turn off in STBY position. Use OFF position to turn it off manually. You cannot use the STBY position to turn on the SB-26 when using it with an FA, FE2 or FG set on a mechanical shutter setting (M250 or B setting with the FA or FE2, M90 or B setting with FG or Nikonos V). Use ON position to turn it on manually.
With the SB-26s power switch on standby (STBY) position, the unit turns off to conserve energy approx. 80 sec. after the cameras meter has turned off. To turn the SB-26 on again, lightly press the shutter release button to turn the cameras meter on, or push the SB-26s open-flash button. E E E
APPLICABLE NIKON SLR MODELS F5 E F-601M/N6000 E FE2 F90X/N90s E F50-Series/N50 E FG F90-Series/N90 E F-401x/N5005 E Nikonos V F70-Series/N70 E F-501/N2020 E F3-Series F4-Series E F-301/N2000 E F2-Series F-801/N8008 E F-401/N4004 E FM2 F-801s/N8008s E F-401s/N4004s E FG-20 F-601/N6006 E FA E 116