How to hardwire the Olympus D-370 and D-380 Digital Cameras
(On/Off style using internal batteries) Copyright , PixController http://www.PixController.com, all rights reserved. This document covers in detail how to modify the Olympus D-370 and D-380 digital cameras for either the Direct RSP or RSS PixContorller boards. You will also need the special PIC control chip for the (RSP3i or RSP4i PIC Chip). Contact our sales at sales@pixcontroller.com or visit our web site http://www.pixcontroller.com for ordering information. This method here we will cover the wiring for the RSP3i PIC chip, which is the 3 wire method using the shutter, power, and common contact points inside the digital camera. You can use the RSP4i method, which wires the shutter, refresh, power, and common contacts. Note: If your D-370 or D-380 is currently wired for the RSS PixController board using the RSS PIC chip your camera can easily be converted to this modification. Follow the directions here and just move your internal Refresh wire to the Power contact point shown in this document. Then contact sales@pixcontroller.com for the new RSP3i PIC chip. The advantages of these modifications are camera battery life. You can increase your battery life from at most 10 day to well over a month!
Please note that if you make this modification to your Olympus camera that you will void your cameras warranty. This modification can also result in damage to your digital camera if you do not follow the instructions properly.
Tools Needed 1. 2.4 mm #0 Philips Screwdriver & Small Flat Blade Screwdriver. 2. Very fine tipped soldering iron with heat control. 3. Wire wrap wire (can be purchased from Radio Shack), or small gauge wire. 4. Small tweezers.
Remove the Camera Batteries and SmartMedia Card Before you begin to modify your camera you need to make sure you remove the batteries and the SmartMedia card from the camera. If you leave them in you can damage your camera or the media card. Note Figures 1 and 2 for the location of the 4 AA Batteries and the SmartMedia card.

Figure 1

Figure 2
Remove the Screws The next step is to remove the screws from the camera case. There are a total of 7 small screws to remove from the camera body. Note the location of each screw in Figure 3. There are 5 screws that are 3/16 inch in length, and 2 that are 1/4 inch in length.
Figure 3 Using a small 2.4 mm Philips type screwdriver remove screw #1 shown in Figure 5. Be sure to keep a small jar handy to keep your screws in. Next open the door where the SmartMedia card is located and remove screws #2 and #3 from the locations shown in Figure 6. Note, these are the longer inch screws. After the screws are removed close the door so it stays in place when the camera is taken apart. Next open the door that covers the batter compartment. Remove screw #4 from the location shown in Figure 7.

Figure 5

Figure 6

Figure 7

Next remove screws #5 and #6, which are located around the cameras tripod mount seen in Figure 8. Lastly remove screw #7, which is located under the flap where the USB port is.

Figure 8

Figure 9
You should have these 7 screws set aside shown in Figure 10 while you now remove the camera back.
Figure 10 Remove Back Cover The next step is to remove the back cover. This is done by taking a small flat blade screwdriver and carefully prying apart the back cover from the middle seam. See Figure 11. Note: you must keep the tabs open that cover the DC Power Input and the USB port when doing this.

Figure 11

Caution! Be sure not to touch the area show. This is where the flash CAP is located and it will give you a nasty shock it touched. Its a good idea to place a piece of electrical tape over this area when performing this modification

Do not touch this area! Locating the internal wiring contact points
First locate the Common Shutter Refresh contacts. These are located near the shutter button of your D-370/D-380. If you are wiring your camera for the RSP3i just attach your small gauge wires to the Common and Shutter contact points. If you are wiring your camera for the RSP4i then you will need to attach wires to all 3 contact points.
D-370 and D-380 Shutter/Refresh/Common contacts
Next locate the Power contact point. These are in different locations between the D-370 and D-380. Shown to the right is the location of the D-370 Power contact. There is also another Common contact here. Feel free to use which ever Common contact you want.
D-370 Power contact location
The D-380 Power contact point is shown in the photo to the right.
D-380 Power contact location Wire the cable The last step is to wire your PixController camera cable. Use the following steps: 1. Attach the Green PixController cable wire to the Power contact. 2. Attach the Black PixController cable wire to the Common contact. 3. Attach the Red PixController cable wire to the Shutter contact. Once finished close up the camera case and you are finished.
D-380 wired for the RSP3i method
How to Operate your D-370 or D-380 When using your new D-370 or D-380 RSP3i or RSP4i PixController system there are a few important features you need to follow. First one is that when you open the cover slide of your D370/D-380 until it is about 1/8 from full open. In this state the camera should not power up (the PixController board will power it up/down for you). Next you want to setup the following setting on your camera to get the best battery life: All Reset to Off Sound to Off Preview to Off
Open the cover slide until it is about 1/8 from full open.
PixController Universal Board Wiring Information Update 9/9/04 Shown below are the locations for wiring to the PixContorller Universal Board. You may either solder your connections to the Camera Port, or use the enclosed Phone Cable and wire to the Phone Jack Port. Note: The included phone cable for the phone jack can come in 2 different types of configurations: Please make note if you have the Standard or Reverse Cable. If the wiring for the phone line you have is BRGY (Standard Cable) Black -> Shutter Red -> Refresh Green -> Power on/off Yellow -> Common or Ground If the wiring for the phone line you have is YGRB (Reverse Cable) Yellow -> Shutter Green-> Refresh Red -> Power on/off Black -> Common or Ground

Olympus D380 D370 NO GLASS Ir modification www.bfoutdoors.com
Just a reminder I assume no responsibility to any damage that can occur when this modification is attempted (Also as always modification of commercial products is done at your own risk. Use extreme caution since high voltage exists within these units First you need to disassemble the camera
Remove all 7 Screws and the back will pull right off
Once the back is off remove these screws and the metal plate will lift off still connected by the CCD cable just gently flip it over and out of the way

D370 example

Next remove the 3 screws Shown The D380 will have a metal plate at the orange circled screw it also will need to be removed This is a 380 example
Remove the metal clip the black tape and all 3 screws holding the lens assembly in place.
Lift the main board up from the cameras shell it will be still connected by wires at the top of the camera so gently pull until you get enough clearance Once its open unplug the white connector you then can remove the entire lens assembly intact from the cameras shell.
Lens assembly removed. You can discard the rubber aligner and the ir glass
Once you have the lens assembly removed removes the 2 circled screws and the locking plate. The lens barrel will pull right out Caution there is a small spring and ball that hold the macro lever in place that will fall out
Looking at the lens In my hand is what I refer to as the lens barrel also you can see how I have marked the focus adjustment nut with white out so you can keep track as you focus. Turning the focus nut clockwise will pull the lense farther from the ccd
I have found that when others do this they dont take quite enough material out and leave a lip that keeps the lens barrel from going deeper in the assembly not allowing the mod to work Remember the reason we grind all the material out is to allow us to get the lens just a few thousandths closer to the ccd.
After with the material ground out I use a small sanding drum on my dremmel tool try not to touch the round edges as that is what keeps the barrel aligned
Once you have removed enough material you also need to remove part of the support angle circled. You can see in this picture the shiny plastic left in the lens farther in is where we ground the material out.
Now peel the black label off the front of the camera Take care and it can be reused very nicely
I use the metal retainer ring to mark the camera body where we need the access holes drilled I do the drilling later after the assembly has been reinstalled
Reassemble the lens assembly and put the screws in but do not tighten them fully. Make sure the lens is pressed in a little farther or deeper and then put it all back together leave the 2 lock down screws slightly loose so you will be able to adjust the focus
Now go ahead and reassemble the camera be sure you get the Macro lever back in the switch slot.

After I have reinstalled the lens assembly and closed the camera back up I then use my drill press and drill out the holes /marks for access to the focus ring nut and the 2 screws that tighten or lock the lens focus Once its all focused lock the screws down I also apply a small bead of black silicone around the lip as I have found in these mods that flash bleed is common because the focus nut is in deeper and allows a little of the flash to sneak thru

Now to focus

This is how I start out I mark the very bottom of the lens with whiteout so its easier to track where the focus if really at. I will take a picture as is then start turning the focus nut clockwise one hour increment at a time and then taking another picture to compare Remember that the lens must start deeper than it was originally and we are now pulling it out farther from the CCD.
Pic at starting point Whiteout mark at 6 oclock
Pic with whiteout mark at 10oclock
Pic at final focus Whiteout mark at 1 oclock