MODEL 5110 DE DIAMOND DREDGE ASSEMBLED VIEW
ASSEMBLED MODEL 5110DE DIAMOND DREDGE TOP VIEW DETAIL
ASSEMBLED MODEL 5110DE SHOWING ENGINE, COMPRESSOR & PRIMING PUMP DETAIL
FRAME PICTORIAL MODIFICATION FOR DIAMOND DREDGE MODEL 5110DE
MODEL 5110 DE FRAME SHOWING ENGINE MOUNTING POSITION
OUTRIGGER FASTEN DIAGRAM. WASHER PROVIDES SPACING OF OUTRIGGER TRIM
MODEL 5110 DE FRAME SHOWING SLUICE MOUNT POSITION
THE AUMINUM LIP ON TH BOTTOM OF THE SLUICE BOX SLIDES OVER PINS AND IS LOCKED IN PLACE WITH COTTER PINS
DETAIL OF ENGINE AND SLUICE MOUNTING POSITON

POWER JET SUPPORT STRAP

FRAME ASSEMBLY FOR 5100-6100 SERIES
LOCK PIN ( TYPICAL ) GRAY MARLEX FLOAT ASSEMBLY
Sluice box adjustment track bar. To increase angle of the sluice, pull the sluice away from the engine. This changes the balance of the dredge and will tilt the floats and Sluice.

LOCKING PINS ( TYPICAL )

Base plate Base plate with 263 Air compressor P2A
Base plate mounting engines with T80 air compressors.
Top View 5100 & 6100 SERIES
Power jet is supported by a U shaped metal strap. The jet support strap is adjustable. Power jet slides inside jet flair and is held in place by a metal strap clamp.
Jet support frame is mounted on top of engine base plate.
Sluice Box Adjustment Track Bar. To Increase Angle Of The Sluice, Pull The Sluice Away From The Engine. This Changes The Balance Of The Dredge And Will Tilt The Floats And Sluice.
(2) HDC3P- 3" HEAVY DUTY CLAMPS (1) POWER JET
PHC3- 3" PRESSURE HOSE
VENTURI JET LOG (1) FVA40- 4" FOOT VALVE ASSEMBLY
(2) HDC3P- 3" HEAVY DUTY CLAMPS (1) PHC3- 3" PRESSURE HOSE COUPLING COMPRESSOR UNIT
PUMP ENIGNE OPERATIONAL NOTES TO ADJUST THE SLUICE BOX WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU START WITH THE SLUICE IN THE LEVEL POSITION WHEN THE ENGINE IS A 50%, THROTTLE. THEN BRING THE ENGINE UP TO 70% ENGINE THROTTLE. ADJUST SLUICE ANGLE SO THE LIGHTER SAND WASHES AWAY,WHILE LEAVING THE CONCENTRATES. THIS IS DONE BY SLIDING THE SLUICE BOX BACKWARDS AND FORWARDS WITH THE TRACK BAR. THE PROPER ANGLE CAN ONLY BE DETERMINED BY EXPERIMENTATION DO TO DIFFERENT MATERIAL CONDITIONS.

JET FLAIR

SLUICE BOX
FRAME ASSEMBLY FOR 5200-6200 SERIES Twin Engine
POWER JET SUPPORT STRAP LOCK PIN ( TYPICAL ) YELLOW MARLEX FLOAT ASSEMBLY
DRILL HOLES FOR TWIN ENGINE FRAMES
Top View 5200 & 6200 SERIES

Twin Engine

Twin engine adaptors may have to be drilled and mounted on the frame work.
(2) HDC3P- 3" HEAVY DUTY CLAMPS Top View 5100 & 6100 SERIES
OPERATIONAL NOTES TO ADJUST THE SLUICE BOX WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU START WITH THE SLUICE IN THE LEVEL POSITION WHEN THE ENGINE IS A 50%, THROTTLE. THEN BRING THE ENGINE UP TO 70% ENGINE THROTTLE. ADJUST SLUICE ANGLE SO THE LIGHTER SAND WASHES AWAY,WHILE LEAVING THE CONCENTRATES. THIS IS DONE BY SLIDING THE SLUICE BOX BACKWARDS AND FORWARDS WITH THE TRACK BAR. THE PROPER ANGLE CAN ONLY BE DETERMINED BY EXPERIMENTATION DO TO DIFFERENT MATERIAL CONDITIONS.
Stage #2 Secondary recovery of coarse gold
Primary classifier screen Secondary classifier screen Jet Flare
line up carpet with the first riffle Adjustable flow control separator sheet and carpet should be pulled out as far as possible to start.
Stage #3 Allows fine material to enter lower section & protects it from high velocity water, providing super fine recovery of gold and black sand
Stage #1 Recovers 90% of all visible gold in the primary recovery riffles
Three Stage Sluice Instructions
The 3 stage sluice box requires more water than a normal sluice box to operate correctly. We recommend that the engine be ran at least 2/3rds. throttle or higher. If the engine operates too slow the riffles may become overloaded and a loss of fine gold will occur. The Adjustable flow control separator plate should be pulled out as far as possible to allow maximum flow into the 3rd. stage riffle area. If the Third Stage Riffle appears to be running too clean you can move the separator plate inward decreasing the water flow allowing more material to accumulate into the riffle section. Side view of 3 stage sluice box
2nd stage Riffle Secondary classifier Punch plate 1st stage riffle Primary recovery classifier woven wire Jet flare

Aluminum separator plate

Standard Ribbed Carpet Wire mesh
Standard Ribbed Carpet Miners Moss
Black Rubber ribbed matting

3rd stage riffle

Sluice Box Tilt Adjustment Move the sluice Box forward to increase or backward to decrease the angle. The proper sluice box angle adjustment can affect the recovery of values. If the sluice does not have enough angle the sluice box will "load up" causing the riffle openings to fill with unwanted excess material. Too much angle will cause the material to flow too fast, resulting in loss of values, evidenced by the riffles running too clean. If the sluice box is working properly, approximately one third of the riffle should be visible after pumping clean water for a minute or so. Aloss of values can also occur if the ratio of solid content to water is too heavy. The solid content should not exceed 1 part material to two parts water. Anormal sluice box tilt is approximately 3/4 inch to the running foot. Example: Afour foot sluice box should have approximately 3 inches of tilt. First Stage: Cleaning the 3 Stage Sluice Box A. Position the suction tip away from any material so it is sucking only water. Operate the engine at approximatly 2/3rds. throttle speed for a several minutes to wash out any excess gravel that has accumulated in the riffle section. B. Turn the engine off or lower the engine speed to a slow idle. Remove primary and secondary classifier screens and riffle. Remove the carpets and aluminum plate and wash the concentrates into a bucket or tub. Note: the primary riffle or 1st stage can be cleaned separately without cleaning the entire sluice box. We recommend that the primary riffle be cleaned only once or twice a day. The balance of the sluice should be cleaned every few days, depending on the type of conditions encountered. 2nd Stage: A. Unlatch the top 2nd. stage riffle and pivot back towards the jet flare. Roll the carpet up and wash out in a bucket or tub. 3rd. Stage. A. Lift the adjustable flow control separator sheet up on it side and rinse the concentrates in to the lower third stage sluice. B. Remove the 3rd stage lower riffle and screen. Splash water on the riffle and screen to rinse any concentrates onto the carpet. Roll up the carpet and wash out the concentrates. Note: many of the above clean up procedures can also be done with the engine idling, however it will require a second person to hold a tub at the end of the sluice.

out any excess gravels that have accumulated. Either turn engine off, or let run with a slow idle, then remove the classifier screen and replace the wing nut to prevent losing it. Unsnap the riffle latches, fold the riffle tray up, and let rest against the jet flare, taking care not to let it drop back into place while cleaning. This could result in a potential injury! Place a wide tray, bucket or large gold pan at the end of the sluice, then carefully roll up the riffle matting and wash into the container at the end of the sluice. Rinse any excess gravel that remains in the sluice into container. All material must be removed before replacing the riffle matting, riffle tray and classifier screen. ENGINE SPEED Most small engines are throttle controlled. The speed of the engine can be controlled with the use of a lever. Although the rated horsepower is achieved on most small engines at 3600 R.P.M., it may not be necessary to operate the dredge at full speed. Lower speeds conserve engine life and fuel economy. Be sure to read all instructions and especially the engine instructions that are provided with each unit. ENGINES ARE NOT SHIPPED FROM THE FACTORY CONTAINING OIL. OIL MUST ADDED PRIOR TO USE! ENGINES OPERATED WITHOUT SUFFICIENT OIL SUPPLY WILL INVALIDATE ENGINE WARRANTEE! TROUBLE SHOOTING [A] IF SUCTION DECLINES 1. Check the suction device for an obstruction. An obstruction can be removed by probing the obstructed area with the provided probe rod. I may be necessary to check the suction hose for a visible obstruction. This can be remedied by either back flushing the system or dislodging the obstruction with a gentle blow. 2. Check the pump for loss of prime or blockage. The foot valve may be too close to the surface of the water and air may enter the intake of the pump via a small whirlpool. The pump intake or foot valve screen may be plugged with leaves or moss, restricting flow into the intake of the pump. Check and tighten all clamps to prevent an air leak. [B] IF PRIMING THE PUMP BECOMES DIFFICULT 1. Check all clamps for an air leak. 2. It may be necessary to check the foot valve for a small leak. This is accomplished by removing the foot valve assembly from the pump and blowing air into the hose portion of the assembly and listening for an air escape. It may be necessary to remove the hose and check the rubber valve for an evidence of a leak, or for a small obstruction preventing the valve from sealing. 3. If a water pump seal is either defective or damaged, a leak will be evident on the inside portion of the pump around the drive shaft. Often a new pump will leak slightly, until the seal and gasket has become fully seated. This is a common occurrence in most new pumps.
PUMP INTAKE HOSE SUCTION NOZZLE FOOT VALVE PRESSURE HOSE

RIFFLES

SLUICE BOX POWER JET

SUCTION HOSE

CENTRIFUGAL PUMP ASSEMBLY
STANDARD 5/8" TREADED SHAFT ENGINE 12

THREADED ENGINE SHAFT

PART NO. HA102 HA182 WPS2(PT.1) WPS2(PT.2) MB 105 HB HW SB PFAC FA FACS

P100 and P180 PUMPS

ITEM 8A 9 9A DESCRIPTION HOSE ADAPTER OUTER HOUSING IMPELLAR PUMP SEAL (CERAMIC SEAL) PUMP SEAL (SPRING & CASING) MOUNTING PLATE BOLT MOUNTING(BACK) PLATE HOUSING BOLT HOUSING BOLT WASHERS SHAFT BUSHING COMPRESSOR DRIVE "O" RING(GASKET) FLUSHER ADAPTER CAP FLUSHER ADAPTER FAC RUBBER SEAL(INSIDE CAP) QUANTITY 1 PART NO.
WPS2(PT.1) WPS2(PT.2) MB 105 HB HW SB PFAC FA FACS
INSTALLATION NOTES: The rotation of all is counter-clockwise. Water must be contained within the pump while it is running. Do not run the pump dry, as it will damage the pump seal and may lead to the need to replace the seal. To ensure continuous performance, it is always a good idea to carry a spare seal, in case you need to replace it. For maximum pump performance, use only Keene Engineering foot valves. INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Before installing the mounting plate (7) to the engine, the spring portion of the water pump seal (5) must be installed. Place this portion of the seal into the center of the mounting plate, with the use of a light hammer and or blunt instrument and a seal setting tool. Tap the perimeter metal portion of the seal to set the seal into position. Care must be taken to avoid contact with the carbon portion of the seal. A small amount of Silicone Rubber Cement placed in this section will insure a water tight seal. Insert the FOURmounting bolts (6) into the mounting plate (7). Tighten the bolts evenly so as to prevent mis-alignment. 2. Fit "O" Ring gasket (OR1) into "O" slot on the front face of the mounting plate, making sure that it is properly seated. Place the ceramic portion of the water pump seal (4) into the center of the impeller (3) firmly, using the heal of your hand to insure a proper fit. The ceramic surface of the seal must be facing outwards. Thread the impeller onto the engine shaft by turning it gently in a clockwise rotation, taking care to avoid damage to the threads on the impeller. 3. Attach the outer housing (2) to the mounting plate, using the housing bolts (8) and washers (8A). Tighten the housing bolts evenly to ensure proper tension and alignment. Extreme care must be taken to prevent over tightening of the bolts. Too much torque will damage the threads in the outer housing.

CENTRIFUGAL PUMPASSEMBLY P280, P350 and P350S PUMPS

ITEM 8A 12A 13 14

PART NO. HA202 WPS3(PT.1) WPS3(PT.2) EB 207 HB HW AB 208 FAC FA FACS 204 CGS
PART NO. N/A WPS3(PT.1) WPS3(PT.2) EB 207 HB HW AB 208 FAC FA FACS 204 CGS P350S PART NO. N/A 301S 352S WPS3(PT.1) WPS3(PT.2) EB 207 HB HW AB 208 FAC FA FACS 204 CGS
DESCRIPTION QUANTITY HOSE ADAPTER 1 OUTER HOUSING 1 IMPELLAR 1 PUMP SEAL (CERAMIC SEAL) 1 PUMP SEAL (SPRING & CASING) 1 ENGINE MOUNTING BOLTS LEG MOUNTING BRACKET 1 HOUSING BOLT 4 HOUSING BOLT WASHERS LEG MTG. BRACKET BOLTS 3 GASKET 1 FLUSHER ADAPTER CAP 1 FLUSHER ADAPTER 1 FAC RUBBER SEAL (INSIDE CAP) 1 ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET 1 COMPRESSOR GUARD SHIELD 1
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Before installing engine mounting bracket (13) to the engine, the 3 leg bracket pump bracket (7) or engine adapter rings must be bolted to the engine mounting bracket and the engine mount bolts (6) must be fitted into place as illustrated. The spring loaded portion of the water pump seal (5) must then be installed in the 3 leg adapter. Place this portion of the seal into the center as shown, with the use of a seating tool (WPK3) and a light hammer. Care must be taken to avoid contact with the carbon portion of the seal. A small amount of silicone sealant is placed in this section to ensure that a water tight seal is accomplished. Insert the three mounting bracket bolts (6) into the engine mounting plate (13) to attach the 3 leg adapter as illustrated. Align the 3 leg pump bracket (7) in the proper position to the engine mount bracket. Tighten evenly, to prevent mis-alignment. If you are installing the compressor mount bracket, be sure to place engine pulley, with drive belt attached, onto the engine shaft, before mounting this assembly to the engine. Make sure to tighten the set screw on the pulley. Be sure to install BELT SHROUD before use. IF NOT AVAILABLE CONSULT WITH FACTORY. 2 Place the ceramic portion of the water pump seal (4) firmly into the center of the impeller, using the heal of your hand to insure a proper fit. Lubricate the outer portion of the seal to assist in proper placement of this portion of the seal. The smooth ceramic surface of the seal must be facing outwards. Thread the impeller onto the shaft in a clockwise fashion, by turning gently, taking care to avoid damaging the threads on the impeller. 3. Fit the pump gasket (10) onto the 3 leg mount bracket (7) and align holes before attaching the pump housing. Attach pump housing (2) to the mounting plate, using the housing bolts and washers ( 8 & 8A). Tighten housing bolts evenly, to ensure proper tension and alignment. Just snug the bolts up. The paper gasket may leak for the first 5 minutes until the gasket begins to swell, as it fills with water. Extreme care must be taken to prevent over tightening of the bolts. Too much torque will damage threads in the pump housing. ALWAYS REMEMBER THAT RUNNING YOUR PUMP DRY WILL LEAD TO POSSIBLE DAMAGE AND DESTRUCTION OF THE WATER PUMP SEALS. IT IS RECOMMENDED TO KEEP ON HAND, ONE WATER PUMP SEAL KIT AND ONE ADDITIONAL WATER PUMP SEAL WHEN WORKING IN AN ISOLATED AREA.

KEENE ENGINEERING 20201 Bahama Street Chatsworth California 91311 Tel. (818)-993-0411 Fax. (818)-993-0447 E-mail: keene@jetlink.net Web site www.keeneengineering.com
INSTALLATION & REPLACEMENT OF A PUMP SEAL, MARLEX PUMP COUPLER & A COMPRESSOR DRIVE ASSEMBLY
The water pump seal must be replaced if water is observed leaking between the engine and pump adapter or around the engine shaft,. To replace a seal or to install a compressor drive assembly (engine shaft pulley and drive belt), the pump must first be removed from the engine. INSTRUCTIONS TO REMOVE THE PUMP FROM THE ENGINE: Note: If the pump has been in use for a year or more, we suggest that you apply a penetrant such as "WD-40" to the engine shaft threads and allow it to penetrate the threads of the engine shaft. Saturate for 24 hours before attempting to remove the impeller from the engine shaft! 1. Remove the four housing bolts and remove the pump housing. If the housing does not pull off easily, gently pry it off with a screwdriver. Inspect the housing gasket and replace if necessary. 2. The impeller is directly mounted to the engine shaft and will unscrew in a counter clockwise direction. Before attempting to remove the impeller the engine shaft must be locked in a fixed position to prevent it from turning. A simple way of locking the shaft is to insert a pointed tool such as a screwdriver or an awl through one of the many holes in the starter assembly and turning the engine over until the tool is firmly locked in place by the starter housing cover. IMPORTANT: Always disconnect the spark plug wire before attempting any repairs or service on your pump or engine. Once the engine shaft is locked into position, there are two methods that can be used to remove the impeller. Method #1. Use a block of wood, such as a 2x4 and place one corner of it into one of the impeller vanes on the left side of the impeller and strike the block of wood sharply with a hammer. This should loosen the impeller and enable it to be unscrewed in a counter clock-wise direction. Method #2. If the above is not successful, use a thin breaker bar or a heavy duty screw driver. Insert the blade into one of the impeller vanes towards the left side and try to unscrew the impeller by applying a downward pressure. If this still does not work carefully strike the end of the bar with a hammer until the impeller loosens from the shaft. If this still does not work, strike gently with a hammer. This method may cause a chip in the vane of the impeller. Depending on the size break of the corner of the impeller, it may or may not have adverse effects on the performance of the pump. So be careful! SEAL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION: 1. All of our pumps use a two piece seal assembly, with the exception of some older models (P-50 and P-60). One half of the seal located in the backside of the impeller is called the "seat", or ceramic portion. The other side of the seal is shrouded in a brass encasement, encasing a hardened material that rests against the ceramic portion of the seal. Always replace both sides of the seal. Remove the ceramic portion with a sharp object similar to a screwdriver and press the new seat into place by hand. Always inspect the seal to note that it is not cracked. Always place the smooth surface of the seal to the outside.

Introduction to Hookah Diving
There are two air supply systems that are used for underwater diving activities. One system, known as Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus (SCUBA), involves the use of high pressure metal tanks which are worn on the diver's back while diving. The equipment used in SCUBA diving is quite technical in nature, and SCUBA gear should not be used by persons who have not become a certified diver involving specialized instruction. Without a certification card indicating completion of such a course, you cannot purchase compressed air. Of course, the SCUBA air system has its advantages as well. A diver using SCUBAgear is literally "an entity unto himself," since he carries his life giving air supply on his back at all times. He can go anywhere he chooses, completely free of any ties with the world topside. There are many times when an underwater diver does not need the total freedom that is afforded by the SCUBA air system, particularly in cases in which the diver is sub-
merged in a limited area for long periods of time. For these applications, the "Hookah" (Surface Air Supply) was invented. The The Hookah air system uses no high pressure air tanks of the type worn on a diver's back Instead, it uses a small air compressor which is located at the surface. It is commonly powered by a portable gasoline engine or electric motor, and the air is delivered to the diver via a floating air hose. With the Hookah system, the diver has an unlimited and nearly "cost free" air supply which will only stop flowing when the engine or motor that powers the compressor ceases to operate. This makes for a truly economical air system, which will quickly pay for itself when compared to the cost of refilling a SCUBA tanks every hour or so. The only operating cost for a Hookah system is fuel, since the vast majority of Hookah compressor units are gasoline powered. It is not uncommon to get two hours diving time on a single gallon of gas, which shows just how economical the
Hookah air system can be. Most Hookah divers will have a partner working "topside" as a safety man, and he can refill the engine's gas tank as it starts getting low. This will enable the diver to stay submerged so long as he desires. THE AIR COMPRESSOR

Typical Hookah Air Compressor Model T-80
The Hookah air system begins at the diver's air compressor. Hookah compressors are small, lightweight, and of simple design. They are commonly constructed of an aluminum alloy, and utilize a rubber diaphragm as the means of air displacement. There are also compressors that use a "piston" arrangement to displace air and these types generally deliver more air at higher pressures than the diaphragm models. The moving parts inside a Hookah compressor are lubricated with Teflon for the life of the unit, and need no additional lubrication; to do so may actually damage the compressor. The air that is delivered by this type of Hookah compressor is pure, oil free air. It is however recommended that at least a 40 micron filter be included to remove any solid particles that may occur. This type of Hookah compressors contains sealed bearings rather than oil for lubrication which can contaminate the air supply. Most compressors utilize an oil bath lubrication system which will contaminate the air supply. Hookah compressors operate at a relatively low pressure. The maximum pressure available from the higher capacity models is about 125 pounds per square inch. The higher the operating pressure, the lower the air output. Consistently high operating pressures (unless the unit specifically designed for high pressure use) will shorten the life of the compressor by a noticeable degree. Conversely, the LOWER the operating pressure, the greater the air output, and the longer the compressor life. A compressor should not be operated at high pressures unless a diver intends to be submerged at greater depths. If a diver is working at depths of 33 feet or less, he will need only 30 to 40 pounds per square inch for optimum operation of his regulator. Most Hookah compressors have a built in "pressure relief valve" which prevents excessive pressure from building up in the compressor head when the diver is only making a small "demand" on the compressor. This valve is usually preset at the factory at approximately 50 p.s.i., which will give the average diver at shallow depths enough air to operate his regulator while leaving enough pressure left over to allow for increased exer-
tion. If a diver is breathing at a normal rate (light exertion), the pressure relief valve will occasionally "pop off" and shoot out a burst of air. This is normal, as it prevents excess buildup of pressure in the compressor head. If a diver is breathing heavily and is under physical exertion, he will be demanding all of the volume and pressure that the compressor can deliver. In this case, the pressure relief valve will rarely, if ever discharge excess pressure or "pop off." The type of Hookah compressor that is required for a given diving operation is dependent upon the extent of underwater physical exertion, the depth, and the number of divers that are connected to the system. A single diver under light exertion at shallow depths will require a relatively small air output that is measured in "cubic feet per minute," or "CFM". The same diver under heavy exertion will require additional air at a slightly higher pressure and volume. If more than one diver is connected to an air system, or if diving at greater than normal depths, more air volume at higher pressures may be required.

Air Reserve Tank Model RT-1 THE AIR RESERVE TANK The next major component in the Hookah air system is the reserve tank. This very important piece of equipment performs four vital functions: The reserve tank operates as an air ``reservoir," that supplies a constant volume of air at all times. If, you are diving under heavy exertion and demanding a greater amount of air, the large volume of air in the reserve tank will supply the reserve air required. If you were breathing directly from compressor itself, your rate of inhalation might actually surpass the air volume provided by the compressor, and you would not get a sufficient amount of air.
The reserve tank functions as a cooling and condensation vessel. Few divers realize it, but the air emerging from a Hookah compressor is quite hot, and can actually reach temperatures as high as 190 degrees. As the air enters the the reserve tank, it will expand and cool. This expansion process will also condense most of the water contained in the compressed air. Hookah compressors, because of their small size, do not have the capability to remove the moisture from the air and hence, they deliver air with an appreciable moisture content. The expansion process in the reserve tank allows the water to condense, ensuring that the diver breaths less moisture in the air. The reserve tank also suppresses surges from the compressor or any temporary decrease in running speed. Often a the compressor's engine will run uneven due to moisture in the gasoline. The reserve tank can compensate for this by delivering an even flow of air. And finally, the most important function of all. The reserve tank will contain enough pressurized air to give the diver a couple of minutes breathing time, should his compressor, or engine failure run out of fuel. Equipment breakdown is not a pleasant thing to consider while working underwater, but is always a possibility. In the event of an engine failure without a reserve tank in the system, a diver could experience an immediate loss of air that could lead to desperation and panic. Any experienced diver will tell you, that panic is the leading cause of drowning incidents. THE AIR HOSE The next component in the Hookah air system is the air hose. Hookah air hose is made of a special vinyl plastic construction, is resistant to the effects of oil, gasoline and sunlight that exists in the environment. Conventional rubber hose should never be used for diving, because it will gradually deteriorate and become toxic. Hookah hose commonly has an inside diameter of 3/8ths. of an inch. It is constructed of an inner liner of food grade vinyl wrapped with a nylon webbing reinforcement and covered with a heavy duty PVC abrasion resistant wall. Hookah hose is
designed to prevent kinking and collapsing that could prevent the flow of air being shut off A quality Hookah hose will be colored a bright yellow or orange, for a high degree of visibility. It will also float, so that any excess hose not actually being used will float on the surface, completely away from the diver, reducing the possibility of entanglements on the bottom. For example, if you are diving in ten feet of water but are using a thirty foot length of air hose, the excess twenty feet will float on the surface, completely away from you. A quality Hookah air will not impart any "flavoring" to the air, and should meet FDA and OSHA requirements.

Typical Hookah Air Regulator and Harness THE REGULATOR The regulator is an oral respiration device that is worn in the divers mouth. The regulator regulates the amount of air that is received by the diver each time he inhales. Because the divers nose is covered by his face mask, air must be inhaled through the divers mouth. There are two types of diving regulators, those designed for SCUBA use and those designed for Hookah applications. A SCUBA regulator is designed for use with SCUBA a air tank, and delivers maximum efficiency when operated at a pressure exceeding 100 p.s.i. They require a "first stage" valve assembly, attached to the SCUBA tank. The function of the first stage is to reduce the extremely high pressure of the air in the SCUBA tank from approximately 2,250 p.s.i. to approximately 180 p.s.i. This pressure then goes to the
Typical air system for one diver, including air hose, reserve tank, regulator, harness, and connector hose to compressor "second stage," which is the part that "pin" valve, which delivers a full air is worn in the diver's mouth. The sec- flow to the diver at a pressure as low ond stage of a SCUBA regulator has as 30 p.s.i. This type of regulator is a spring loaded "downstream" valve specifically designed for use with low which delivers the correct amount of pressure Hookah compressors. air to the diver when driven by an air Hookah regulators, as are all modern pressure ranging from 100 to 250 regulators, are of the single hose, p.s.i. "demand" type. A "demand" regulator A prospective Hookah diver must works on a relatively low volume of realize that SCUBA regulators CAN- air, since it only has to deliver air as NOT be used for Hookah applications the diver breathes, or "demands" it. without special modifications. A typical Hookah compressor operates in an average pressure range of 30 to 50 p.s.i., which is not enough pressure to drive the spring loaded downstream valve of a SCUBA regulator. A diver who already owns a SCUBA regulator, but who wishes to use it for Hookah applications, must take his regulator to a competent dive shop or repair station and get the regulator converted over for low pressure use; he should not attempt to do it himself. THE HARNESS The conversion can be made by A regulator should not be used for installing a set of low tension springs Hookah diving unless it is in conjuncwhich will give maximum efficiency tion with a "chest harness." The harwhen operated at low Hookah pres- ness serves two principle functions: sures. A dive shop or repair station will also have the necessary test 1. It keeps the air hose from getting gauges, etc., to make certain the in the diver's way when he is working adaptation has been effective. underwater. The harness has a A Hookah regulator is entirely dif- "back plate" which is automatically ferent from a SCUBA regulator. It positioned over the center of the consists of a "second stage" only, diver's back when the harness is which is fed directly from the output of Since the air hose terminates at the the reserve tank via the air hose. diver's back, it prevents potential There are no valve assemblies of the entanglements around the diver's type that are used with SCUBA tanks. body. Hookah regulators employ a "tilt," or

2. The regulator intake hose that attaches to the check valve prevents any pulling motion from the regulator while working underwater. For example; if a diver were moving around underwater and inadvertently came to the end of the air hose, the harness would absorb the shock and the regulator and would not be jerked from the diver's mouth. INCIDENTAL ACCESSORIES, HOSES, HINTS, PRECAUTIONS: One accessory hose item you will need is a short length of hose for routing the air output from the compressor to the input of the reserve tank. The type of hose that is needed depends upon the compressor you are using. Diaphragm models that operate in the 30 to 50 p.s.i. range use a simple hose connector that is made of hookah air hose. The high pressure, high volume piston compressors that are capable of delivering pressure of 100 p.s.i., require a connector made of special certified "heat resistant steam" hose, due to the fact that these models discharge air at higher temperatures. When setting up a Hookah air system, you will frequently need an array of metal fittings. For use around water, you should use stainless steel or brass fittings only. This is especially important when diving in salt water. Fittings made of ferrous metal will rust or corrode when used in, or near a water environment. If your Hookah compressor is powered by a gasoline engine, make every effort to ensure that the engine exhaust (which contains deadly carbon monoxide gas), is always placed DOWNWIND from the compressor. This will help prevent exhaust from being accidentally pulled into the compressor's air inlet. Always use a snorkel extension on any compressor that can elevate the intake of the air supply away from engine exhaust contaminates. Never use a gasoline powered compressor in confined areas, such as underneath piers, in close, narrow grottos, etc. This will prevent the exhaust gases from dissipating into the atmosphere safely. Also, never dive in an area where there is little ventilation or air movement. Take
special precautions when diving in areas where the air is extremely still, as dead air spaces, or poor ventilation can cause exhaust gases to linger in the immediate area of the engine and compressor unit. Always install a long extension on the intake of your compressor to avoid the possibility of contamination of Carbon Monoxide Gas from the engine exhaust system. The air intake of a compressor must tower over the engine exhaust at a sufficient height or distance to avoid intake of engine exhaust gas. If this gas is inhaled even in small quantities for short periods, it can cause severe headaches and possibly result in sickness. In larger quantities it can kill you, so please be careful! If you are using Hookah equipment around salt water, be sure to rinse off all your components with freshwater afterwards. This includes your regulator, diving mask, harness, metal fittings, and air hose (flush it out on the inside as well as outside). A salt water environment will quickly corrode aluminum parts such as: Hookah compressors and gasoline engines. It is advisable to keep all metal components freshly painted and cleaned to avoid excess corrosion. If you are using a gasoline powered compressor always shut of the engine before attempting to refuel. Do not attempt to refill the engine's gas tank while the engine is still running, as this will increase the possibility of spilling gasoline onto a hot engine, which could result in a potential fire or cause an explosion. A diver should always surface and shut off the engine first prior to refueling and allow time for the engine to cool down. Always use a funnel for refilling the gas tank, or a special spillproof gas container to prevent spillage. Every Hookah diver should understand the basic rudiments of engine and compressor maintenance, and should always keep his equipment in top condition. If you take proper care of your equipment, it will give you many years of trouble free service. Knowing how to work on your own equipment will also come in handy, should you experience any mechanical failure on a diving trip. It is a good idea to carry

along some spare parts for your air compressor, and the necessary tools to make repairs. All of the basic "rules of the deep" that apply to SCUBAdiving also apply to Hookah diving as well. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU DIVE ALONE.! Always Hookah dive with a partner who owns his own regulator, harness, and air hose. Make sure that his or her equipment as well as yours is attached to the air system at all times. If you were to experience underwater problems, your "diving partner" should be available to come to your immediate assistance. Even though no formal instruction is required to use Hookah equipment, we strongly recommend that all divers should take a CERTIFIED SCUBA course at your local county or diving supply store. You should also read books on the subject of underwater diving safety and study them thoroughly. This will further familiarize you with the "rules of the deep."

New 12volt system HAS

WARNING CARBON MONOXIDE GAS
If you're considering diving with a "Hookah Compressor" , It is most important that you become aware of Potential Danger associated with exhaust emissions. We place a caution label on the engine, warning of dangerous engine fumes and also illustrate further warning in " Introduction to Hookah Diving" and Safety in Gold Dredging that is issued with the purchase of all diving equipment. WHAT IS CARBON MONOXIDE GAS? Carbon Monoxide is an invisible odorless gas which gives no warning of its presence. It is the product of the incomplete burning of any material such as ; Oil Gasoline, Wood, Coal, etc. that contains carbon. WHAT IS THE EFFECT OF CARBON MONOXIDE EXPOSURE? Carbon Monoxide deprives the blood of its ability to carry oxygen throughout the body. When Carbon Monoxide is inhaled , it chemically combines with hemoglobin, the oxygen carrier in the blood. Even if there is plenty of oxygen in the air, hemoglobin combines much more readily with Carbon Monoxide than with oxygen. As the oxygen level of the blood is reduced, the heart must pump faster in an effort to supply sufficient amounts of oxygen to the brain and other parts of the body. When the brain does not receive enough oxygen, symptoms of headache, dizziness and mental confusion occur. Further exposure to the gas causes lack of coordination, weakness and nausea. The final effect of excessive exposure are convulsions, coma and death. Needless to say, we cannot emphasize strongly enough that caution must be exercised. Never dive alone, never dive in an enclosed area, or in an area where good ventilation is not eminent such as; under piers, narrow grottos, under heavily overgrown brush or trees or in any area where a good breeze does not occur. Always make an effort to position your air unit to allow the prevailing breeze to carry any exhaust emissions away from the air intake of the compressor. Remember, Carbon Monoxide is the product of incomplete burning of gasoline and oil, so it most important to keep your unit properly running and clean. Never allow gasoline to overfill or spill anywhere near engine and compressor. THE SAFETY AIR SNORKEL DOES NOT ELIMINATE CARBON MONOXIDE GAS, IT ONLY AIDS IN THE REDUCTION OF FUMES. ALL THE SAFETY CAUTIONS MUST BE OBSERVED !

SNAP FIT 1/4" NYLON NUT AND WASHER
REMOVE AIR FILTER FROM THE AIR COMPRESSOR AND INSTALL IN THE TOP OF THE AIR SNORKEL 1/4-20 X 2" BOLT ALUMINUM SNORKELSUPPORTS #10-24 X 2.5" BOLT ALUMINUM SPACER SNORKEL SLIDES INSIDE THE COMPRESSOR INTAKE

STABILIZING BRACKET

#10-24 X 1/5 PHILLIP PAN HEAD

#10 NUTS

Optional Recommended Air filter (CDAF)
A4 THIS IS THE AIR SUPPLY COMING FROM THE H.P. COMPRESSOR
A5C RT9S AND RT25S STAINLESS STEEL TANK HC1ST A2 1/4 F X 1/2M

A5C A5G

1/4 F X 1/2M A5E

TO AIR LINES

Air intakes are re-located to reduce the chance of Carbon Monoxide intake

CDAF A4

A8 A5 F A5C A5C 1/4 F X 1/2M A5G A8 TO AIR LINES
High temperature hose (HC1ST) must be used on the out put of the 263 Air Compressors The 263 Compressors run Hot and can Heat up standard air hose on blow the ends off.
1/4" M BRASS PETCOCK ALLOWS DRAINAGE OF THE CONDENSATION FROM THE RESERVE TANK
263/265 COMPRESSOR TANK CONFIGURATION 2 OR 3 DIVERS (RT 9 OR RT 25)

263G & 263GH

Remote air intakes reduce the chance of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning