Pentax MZ50
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Manual
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(Japanese)Pentax MZ50 Digital Camera, size: 13.7 MB |
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Pentax MZ50
User reviews and opinions
| sevendp |
6:09pm on Sunday, August 15th, 2010 ![]() |
| Had used until then (a Pentax P30): it had accompanied me from my beginnings in this world (if the Polaroid and children machines are excluded). | |
| osiris |
5:34pm on Thursday, July 15th, 2010 ![]() |
| Classic Pentax SLR Excellent Manual 35mm SLR camera with the added convenience of Automatic Scene Programs. | |
| adamwg |
7:16pm on Tuesday, July 6th, 2010 ![]() |
| Very good esp for those on tight budget size - but nothing to complain about really see text! colours, flash | |
| scubagal |
2:01am on Monday, June 28th, 2010 ![]() |
| UPDATED 18/01/01:(my first op!) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I bought this camera a year ago and it never failed to amuse me everytime I uses it. autofocus. | |
Comments posted on www.ps2netdrivers.net are solely the views and opinions of the people posting them and do not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of us.
Documents
Bob Bimon May 2009
HOW TO CHANGE O-S250 mirror motor on PENTAX MZ50 You will need 4 basic but necessary tools : - little screwdriver Philips 000 - a soldering iron (20W max) + unsolder pump : be cautious with flexible boards, they don't support heat very much. - a digital camera to take photographs step by step when dismantling your camera - small plastic bags to put the several elements you will progressively dismantle, attached with their screws, and make written notes for each, this will be very helpful when remounting the whole stuff. I used 20 of them for the whole. Remove batteries, film and lens now, be always careful with the curtain and the mirror box aperture : I stuck rigid paper or credit card on them to avoid to damage them or to introduce accidentally foreign parts inside. Remove the back cover pushing down the screw head on the inner axis (A217 : do not unscrew it, its not useful), like for a watch belt (there is a spring inside the axis). Remove all screws of cover parts, putting them in separate plastic bags : left, right, front ring (open flash to reach the hidden screw), top and bottom. Try to identify the specific ones (color, head, length.) making a drawing or writing down description, or taking pictures with the Digital camera for each step; for instance, for the top cover part, one long black screw is in film compartment, one silver one is on battery compartment side, very deep inside.
Dismount the metallic bottom cover with gears O-D1 : be careful not to loose gears and one spring on camera body side ! put tape on them to maintain them in place. To completely free this O-D1 metallic piece, it will be necessary to loosen the 2 screws tightening the A265 part and the flexible contact (3 circular pads) in the film compartment, close to the shutter; when dismounted pull the flexible enough to free OD1, be careful not the damage the flexible.
Bob Bimon May 2009 1/12
detach the buzzer (the white disc with 2 wires), it is lightly glued but leave it soldered to the wires
This is the easiest step, I hope you are not desperate at this step, the hardest job is coming right now. The 2 main problems to reach the guilty motor of the mirror box is to dismount the flash board (2 big capacitors like black tubes) first, and the mirror box assembly after. This requires to unsolder a lot of wires; thats why pictures are very useful, even if the repair notice (electrical wiring diagram) may help.
Bob Bimon May 2009 2/12
(this is the flashboard, with the 2 tubular capacitors).
You have to unsolder : o 4 wires on the flash board linked to the top cover (flash) + 1 long black wire coming from the flashlamp to the battery contact; after this step, you will dismount 2 screws of the LCD : one up, close to the ON/OFF switch pad, and one below the LCD. o 2 + 4 wires of the top flexible board o red wire on the + contact of battery case o black wire of the contact battery case o 2 contacts (+ and -) on the battery case directly soldered with the board carrying the shutter button. o 4 pillar contacts (use a solder pump, this is mandatory to avoid overheat on the flexible board). o Red wire on the flash board
Bob Bimon May 2009 3/12
(The 4 wires to unsolder between the flashboard and the flash : black left, brown, blue and green,; unsolder the little black on the right, but on the right extremity at - battery contact ; additionally, theres a long black wire coming along the flashboard, running from the flashlamp to the battery contact : you will unsolder it on the contact )
(the screw to loosen close to ON/OFF pad)
Bob Bimon May 2009 4/12
(the screw to loosen below the LCD screen; additionally the 2 screws on the right shall be dismounted too, they tighten the carry belt support)
(The 2+4 wires to unsolder, and the red and the black wires on the right on the battery case contact, and on the board close to the shutter button; dont make error when resoldering it, dont be confused with the pads + and - !!! They are very close each other)
Bob Bimon May 2009 5/12
Here you see the 4 contact pillars soldered between the flashboard and the main flexible board : unsolder them at main board size (on the left here); dont overheat, because you may unsolder the other extremity of the pillars ! Unsolder the flexible ribbon soldered on flexible main board (close to the reflex prism) coming from the shutter mechanism box (O-E000)
Here to lift up this board, it was necessary to unsolder the 2 contacts (+ and -) on the battery case soldered with the board carrying the shutter button (they are shown 2 picture above). Unsolder the red remaining wire are release the screws.
Bob Bimon May 2009 6/12
The flashboard is OUT !
Notice ! The flashboard capacitors shall be discharged to avoid any electrical stress : try to discharge the flash before putting out batteries, if the camera permits you (before starting the dismantle); if not, measure the voltage on capacitors contacts at board level : if voltage is higher than 10V, discharge each of them with a resistor 100kOhms.
Bob Bimon May 2009 7/12
Unsolder the black and red wires on O-S250 motor Move away the flexible ribbon (previously unsoldered) coming from shutter mechanism Move the buzzer away (do not unsolder it) (Those 3 steps are necessary to have free space to dismount the mirror box assembly). NOTICE : do not dismount the 2 big screws on the top of O-E000 (I did it by mistake, it was a mess after, because its the inner mechanism of the shutter, lot of work to rebuild it and set it again.)
Dismount the viewfinder (2 screws) Dismount the mirror box assembly (4 screws + 1 reinforced plate A162 : 2 at the bottom front , and 2 at the top rear, below the viewfinder free space).
Courtesy and permission of Alan Chan
Copyright Alan Chan
Bob Bimon May 2009 8/12
(Within the green circles, here are the 2 bottom screws and the reinforced plate). Close to the end. now extract the mirror box assembly with a delicate and combined movement : towards and to the right simultaneously, because there is a flexible connection in Z on the right of mirror box connected to the ASA contacts film detector, this needs some tricky ability to free the mirror box. Dont force at all, I shall be free without forcing it
(mirror box OUT)
(the gearbox)
Bob Bimon May 2009 9/12
- Now you have the G-100 gearbox : loosen the 4 screws, and delicately open the gearbox, avoiding to loosen the gears. Use tape if necessary.
(O-100 is now open, motor ready to be free !)
Bob Bimon May 2009 10/12
Final step : remove the 2 inner screws that tighten the bloody O-S250 motor to G-100. Done !!
Bob Bimon May 2009 11/12
Put the new motor : be CAREFUL on orientation of the motor !!! The label is UP, visible when remounting it on G-100, and in the camera (as on my picture); this is fundamental to avoid to have the motor running in the wrong way when you will resolder wires on it (thats why pictures help!). and do again all what you did before in reverse order. if remounting the mirror box assembly is hard (be sure that the 4 feet are in contact with the body before tightening the 4 screws), this may because you have to resynchronise a bit the gearbox with the shutter mechanism; I dont think you may suffer this inconvenience, if shutter has not be accidentally opened as I did. Tell me if you have a problem at this step. BE CAREFUL and TAKE YOUR TIME on each reconstruction step : o check twice that you resolder on the CORRECT pad the CORRECT wire, making comparison with the pictures. o Check that parts match perfectly each other, without forcing when tightening screws o Checks screws type o Check that no wire is stressed or compressed; they must be put as on pictures, a few position tolerance is allowed.
GOOD LUCK ! Bob
Bob Bimon May 2009 12/12

eBay: Pentax MZ-50 & Sigma 28-80mm Lens & Lens Protector (item 7.
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Cameras & Accessories > Film Cameras & Lenses > 35mm SLR Cameras > Pentax Item number: 7607919429 Email to a friend | Printer Version
Pentax MZ-50 & Sigma 28-80mm Lens & Lens Protector
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Feedback: 98.7% Positive Member: Ended: Apr-17-06 02:29:18 PDT Shipping costs: AU $15.00 (discount available) Regular (more services) View larger picture Ships to: Item location: History: Worldwide Buderim, Queensland, Australia 13 bids ) since May-04-03 in Australia
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Description
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Pentax MZ-50 & Sigma 28-80mm Lens & Lens Protector. The camera and lens are in very good condition minor marks from general use. Specs listed as below.
Key Features Lens Mount Pentax KAF SLR (Single Lens Reflex) With Focus Lock 30 1/2000 sec 2.5 in. 3.6 in. 5.3 in. 12.64 oz.
Camera Type
Focus Focus Lock Shutter Shutter Speed Dimensions Depth Height Width Weight Miscellaneous
MPN Product ID More Information
1685 44022
This SLR takes a leap towards the next millennium, with up-to-date styling, and packed with the latest advances. The MZ-50 boasts catch-the-moment simplicity - simply choose from the icons shown in the LCD panel and the MZ-50 will select the optimum exposure for the best results. It's the easy way to get those shots you've always wanted. Green Operation Mode with picture modes Predictive autofocus Uncluttered viewfinder LCD display High-precision 2-segment autofocus system silver body The kit includes Pentax strap.
*International sales are more than welcome but payment only accepted by paypal. __________________________ Payment: Payment is due in full no later than 7 days after the end of the auction. I will confirm your winning bid within 24hrs after the auction ends via eBay's checkout system. I accept Money Orders, Bank Deposit & Paypal. Confirmation of your winning bid is required within 3 days of the end of auction. Final total will be calculated after the auction has end. Domestic Shipping: Shipping is via Australia Post or Courier. Shipping and handling is listed in all auctions. Combined orders must pay via 1 combined payment. All items are sent registered post, unless auction is listed as courier delivered as we are able to trace goods, therefore no Registered Post fee required, but Insurance is extra if requested. International Shipping: I only accept paypal from international buyers. Registered Post/Insurance is required at the cost of $8.50. International insurance may not be available and may be higher to some countrys. Please contact me before paying form outside the Australia to verify the cost and options as in some cases prices may vary.
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Shipping, payment details and return policy Shipping Cost AU $15.00 AU $45.00 Services Available Regular Economy Air Service Transit Time* 1 to 6 business days Available to Australia only Worldwide
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Will ship to Worldwide. Save on shipping - buy additional items now from this seller's other listings! Shipping insurance AU $3.00 Required Seller's return policy: Return policy may differ for international buyers. Contact seller for more details. Learn more. Item must be returned within: 7 Days Return Policy Details: Refund will be given as: Money Back All goods that are delivered that are not as described in auction, will be given a full refund less postage. All goods MUST be sent back within 3 days of arrival and be approved by us before being returned. All unisured returned post we are not responsible.
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