CAMERA MANUAL

Holga 120WPC

Holga 120N

Holga 120 CFN

Holga 120FN

Holga 120 PC
Photo by Michael Tullberg

Holga 135PC

Holga 135
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E D I T I O N

HOLGA 4

INTRODUCTION

Holga cameras have a near fanatical following of professionals, educators and artists. But, for those not familiar with the brand and its unique properties, a Holga is largely an enigma. This does not dissuade people from buying the camera. In fact, the Holga mystique draws people to it. In this guide, we will lift the veil that A partnership: The camera & photographer both contributed something to this image. shrouds the camera and give you Photo by Michelle Bates and her Holga. special insight into the Holga. We will explore the cameras inner workings, show you how to use it, and discuss that special photographic sensibility the Holga is known for.

HOLGA SENSIBILITY

The truth is something very different. Holga is not related to Diana, and the Holga was not designed with the Diana in mind. In fact, the people who manufacture the Holga were not even familiar with the Diana nor its substantial following. Designed and engineered in a factory in China, the Holga was initially introduced to the Chinese public in 1981 as an inexpensive camera using the most popular film format in the country at the time120 size film. At that point, China was just beginning to open its doors to the world, and photography was skyrocketing in popularity. Unfortunately for the Holga, no one could have predicted the enormous impact 35mm film would have on the Chinese market, and after only a few short years the Holga was overrun by its smaller format competitors. But by then, word of this special all-plastic camera had spread west, and its popularity was growing. Tens of thousands of cameras were sold in twenty different countries with almost no change in its original design a remarkable achievement of design stability. Then in 2000, the original Holga 120S was joined by the 120SF version which featured a built-in flash. By 2001, the Holgas 20th anniversary, over half a million cameras had been sold worldwide. Since then, photographers have purchased tens of thousands more. In the same year, research found over one hundred Internet pages supporting, discussing and displaying photos from the Holga. A micro industry had sprung up, and people began making a living modifying and accessorizing Holga cameras. Today, the array of cameras and accessories available from Holga reflects its continued popularity among photographers. Joining the latest models, including the 120N, FN and CFN are the famous colored Holgas that make up the Holgawood collection, the fantastically wide-angled Holga 120 WPC, and the Holga 3-D Stereo Cameras. Whats in a name? Quite a lot, it seems, because many people still wonder
With its plastic, low-contrast lens, the Holga can change how we interpret what we see in a photograph. Photo by Sherry Lee.
A Holga is a study in plastic imperfection, and to use it is an exercise in breaking free from dependence on technology, precision, and ubersharpness. The slight softness of the images, uncontrollable vignetting and peculiar light leaks create a partnership between you and your Holga. These flaws, accompanied by your creative choices, result in a quasiserendipitous form of art. A Holga stretches our visual perception. Using a Holga adds another facet to the way we see the world. We notice more things, and thus we examine and evaluate their status. A Holga is an educator teaching us a new visual vocabulary with which to describe our world. A Holga is a rule breaker. To use a Holga is to utterly change the terms of reference most people use to interpret photography.

HOLGA HISTORY

Holgas history is the stuff of myth and legend. Some say that the camera is made by the same people who brought us the original Diana plastic camera. Others say the Holga was designed specifically to fill the gap left by the Dianas temporary departure.

HOLGA SPECIFICATIONS

Camera Name Flash Hot Shoe Bulb Exposure Tripod Mount Masks (cm) Batteries Construction

Status

120 FORMAT Holga 120N Holga 120FN Holga 120CFN Holga 120PC Pinhole Holga 120WPC Pinhole Holga 120-3D Stereo Holga 120PC-3D Stereo Pinhole Classic Holga 120S Classic Holga 120SF 35MM FORMAT Holga 135 Holga 135 BC Holga 135PC Pinhole Holga 35MF Holga 35AFX Hot Shoe Hot Shoe None Built-In Built-In Yes Yes No No No Yes Yes Yes No No Brass Brass Brass Brass Brass None Soft filter None None None None None None Plastic Plastic Plastic Active Active Active Hot Shoe Built-In Built-In* None None Built-In None Hot Shoe Built-In Yes No No No No No No Yes No Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No No Brass Brass Brass Brass Brass Brass Brass None None 6x4.5, 6x6 6x4.5, 6x6 6x4.5, 6x6 None 6x7, 6x9 Dual 6x6 Dual 6x6 6x4.5 6x4.5 None Two AA Two AA None None Four AA None None Two AA Plastic Plastic Plastic Plastic Plastic Plastic Plastic Plastic Plastic Active Active Active Active Active Active Active Inactive Inactive
Two AA Plastic (Glass Lens) Inactive Two AA Plastic (Glass Lens) Inactive
*Holga CFN has a color wheel allowing the flash to be red, yellow, blue or white.
where the name Holga came from. The answer is related to the Holgas Far Eastern heritage. The name is derived from the Cantonese term ho gwong, which translates into English as very bright. A nip and a tuck and a Western twist, and you get the Western name: Holga.

SUMMARY OF FEATURES

On a sunny day, use a 160, 200 or 400 ISO B&W or color negative film. On gloomy days or late in the afternoon, an 800 speed film might be necessary, and near sunset or indoors, look for a 1600 or 3200 ISO film. Slide films are much less forgiving when pushed, but you can get great results in the right situation. 200 ISO slide film usually works in bright sunny weather, but for average conditions a 400 speed film is still best. Tungsten slide film has more latitude and suffers less from reciprocity failure than daylight balanced film; it can also provide an interesting blue tint if you choose not to filter-correct for daylight.

FORMAT

All versions of the Holga camera are essentially made entirely from plastic, with the exception of the shutter assembly. The original models accept 120-size film and are capable of shooting in either 6x4.5cm or 6x6cm format, while the 35mm and pinhole versions produce anywhere from standard 35mm to huge 6x12cm ultra-wide images, depending on the model. The plastic lens on the original Holga has an approximate focal length of 60mm, and has a switch designed to change the aperture from roughly f/8 to about f/11. ( Note: According to some, the two f-stops are so close that they are indistinguishable from one another. We leave it up to you to decide.) The shutter speed is fixed at approximately 1/100th of a second and operates on a spring. The depth of field ranges from 3 feet to infinity. Of course, being a Holga, these statistics can vary from camera to camera, as no two Holgas are exactly alike. Since its introduction in 1981, a total of ten medium format variations have been released. The manufacturer has ceased production of the Classic and Woca glass-lens models, but with a little searching, they can still be found. There were also two limited-edition 35mm film models, which have been similarly phased out and replaced with newer versions described in a later chapter.

CHOOSING FILM

Out of the box, a standard medium format Holga has the 6x6cm (12 frames) mask in place. This mask will produce square images with sharply defined borders. The camera also comes with a 6x4.5cm (16 frames) mask, which will produce a vertical rectangular image with the same sharp border. But, to get the most out of the Holgas (in)famous vignetting, light leaks and edge distortion features, we recommend removing the mask entirely, so that the image goes out to nearly the very edge of the film. ( Note: when removing the mask, it is a good idea to carefully examine the area that the mask covered for any small protruding edges of plastic that may scratch or damage the film. While this occurs very rarely, its a quick fix with a hobby or nail file, or some tape to cover up the offending edge.)
Symbol & Distance = 3 feet (1m) = 6 feet (2m) = 18 feet (6m) = 30 feet (10m)
Because a Holgas two approximate aperture settings are identified as sunny and not so sunny, much of the Holgas speed flexibility is in the film. You can shoot under almost any lighting condition by choosing the closest speed film beforehand and pushing or pulling it as necessary. Black and white C-41 films are a good choice because they have excellent latitude and can be conveniently developed at any color photo finishing location. But, conventional black and white films allow you to use your own favorite processing methods. If you have never processed film before, this is a great opportunity for you to tryits not as hard as you might think. Easy, step-by-step instructions can be found online at www.freestylephoto.biz/filmprocessinghowto.php.
With firm downward pressure, move the format arrow to infinity on the camera back from 16 to 12 so that the frame count on the film will be accurate. Particularly in earlier models, this can require some coaxing and a screwdriver or other tool may help the transition, but be careful not to damage the red window. Be sure to remember to move the arrow back to the 16 position if you wish to use the vertical 6x4.5cm mask.

FOCUSING A HOLGA

A Holga has four focus marks on the lens barrel. Simply rotate the barrel to the setting that most closely corresponds to your situation. Feel free to use your own setting that might fall between these icons.

EXPOSURE TIPS

The lens on a Holga is fairly low contrast (it is plastic, after all) and tends to lose detail in the shadow areas. For B&W negative film, the rule of thumb is to expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. Even color negative film can benefit from the habit of over exposing slightly. With slide film it is best to be as accurate as possible, so use a light meter.

LOADING A HOLGA

6. If your camera does not have foam padding behind the spools, keep your thumb on the film and insert the piece of cardboard between the bottom of the film spool and the camera. 7. Replace the camera back and slide the clips back into place. You may want to use some tape to keep the back in place. See the section on Taping Up A Holga, below for tips.

UNLOADING A HOLGA

If you own a Classic Holga 120S or Woca series camera, you will want to have ready a folded-up piece of thin cardboard, maybe an inch square. Part of a film box works well.
1. After shooting the last frame (16 frames in 6x4.5 format, 12 frames in 6x6 format), turn the take-up knob until the film and paper have completely rolled onto the spool. 2. Open the camera back in subdued light and remove the film. Be sure that the film is wound tightly around the take-up spool, then moisten the tape and wrap it around the film. 3. Switch the empty spool to the right side of the camera for the next roll you shoot.

TAPING UP A HOLGA

For Classic Holga 120S
As with all film, load and unload out of direct sunlight, preferably in subdued light. 1. Remove the back by sliding down the metal clamps on either side of the camera. Looking in from the back side of the camera, new film is loaded on the left side. Make sure that the take up spool is on the right side. 2. Place the spool of film into the left side of the camera with the leading edge pointing to the right. 3. Break and remove the seal securing the film. 4. With your left thumb resting lightly on the film, pull out the paper film leader until you can insert the tapered edge into the take-up spool. 5. Spool the film with a couple of turns of the take-up knob. Keep your thumb lightly on the film to prevent slack.
Many Holga owners look forward to the light leak feature of the camera, as the streaks of light can changeor even reinterpreta photograph. The most notorious light leak on the camera comes from the film counter window, since the red color is not suited to todays panchromatic films. Some people dont mind, but for the rest of us, a piece of opaque tape used as a flap solves this problem easily.

The Holgas optical imperfections enhance lens effects like flare. Photo by Michelle Bates.
There are those of us who prefer to expel the pesky light leaks altogether by taping up the entire camera. However, the judicious application of tape at key positions can nearly eliminate unwanted exposure and make film loading much easier. ( Note: there is no guarantee that even the total mummification of a Holga will eliminate every light leak. There are reports of leaking Holgas that were taped everywhere but on the lens.)
The best tape for this job is a black gaffers tape or black photographers masking tape. Both of these are found in most well-stocked photo retailers, studio lighting providers, and even good hardware stores. These tapes stay in place, are re-positionable, pull off cleanly, and do not leave a sticky mess on warm days.

LEAK REMEDIATION

There are no guarantees, but if you are lucky, your Holga will leak light like a sieve. Should you prefer to stem your good fortune, we have six ways to do it. Camera Back Run pieces of black tape along the seam where the back fits onto the body. Metal Clips Cover the metal clips that secure the camera back. This will prevent them from falling off of the cameraespecially when you use the camera strap. Some have used Velcro strips instead of tape to hold the clips in place, resulting in easier access while changing film and less tape residue left on fingers.
The Holga can be ideal for producing whimsical images from everyday locations. Photo by Lauren Martinez
Loose Film Unlike 35mm film, 120 film spools have no light-tight canister to protect them from exposure; the only guard against the sun is its thin paper backing. If your film is not rolled tightly as you shoot, light can sneak in under the loose paper. If you have an older Holga, or if your newer model is not rolling the film tightly, refer to the section Loading A Holga on page 8.
A lucky break: buckled film created this serendipitious dynamic. Photo by Perri Nguyen
FLASHES & STUDIO STROBES
The Holga 120S, 120N and 35mm Holgas all have standard hot shoes, so any simple non-dedicated standard mount camera flash will work. Because of the Holgas limited exposure adjustment, it is best to use an adjustable automatic flash. Simply set your flash to match your films ISO at f/8 and shoot away. To shoot with studio strobes, we recommend using an on-camera flash and equipping your strobes with photo slaves. You can also use a hot shoe-to-PC adapter which allows you to hook up directly to an off-camera flash or strobe pack with a sync cord. ( Note: Every version of the Holga camera triggers the flash twice once at shutter depression and once at shutter release! Be sure to pause in between or you risk damaging the flash or strobes.) Holga Manual Electronic Flash The perfect accessory for your Holga camera. This manual flash features a guide number of 22, recycling time of 6 to 8 seconds, includes a PC cord for use with other cameras and a locking ring on the hot shoe mount. Holgon MF Flash For Holgas with a bulb setting, the Holgon MF is a cool little strobe that fits on any hot shoe. It acts as a regular flash (guide number 21 at 100 ISO) until you switch to MF mode. Then, each time you press the

Behind the 6x4.5 Mask If you have a standard 120 Holga camera, removing the 6x4.5 mask reveals two holes above the lens that can cause light leaks. A single piece of tape can cover them both. Film Counter Window Cover the window with a piece of tape. Fold the tape at the end to create a convenient pull flap. Bag the Camera Keep the camera in your camera bag to minimize the impact of unwanted light. Painting the Inside of the Camera Although the inside of the camera is black, it is a semi-shiny, almost lustrous black, which can reflect any unwanted light that manages to make it inside. This can be countered by painting the interior of the camera matte black, which cuts down on reflections.
Multiple exposure with a colored gel on the Holga Flash work to create dynamic imagery. Photo: M. Tullberg.
Photo Complements of Joe Ostraff, BYU.
shutter it keeps popping about twice a second for as long as you hold the shutter down. Imagine the multiple image possibilities. There is also a bounce head which tilts up to soften shadows.

MULTIPLE EXPOSURES

There are also custom-designed hood patterns that you can download from the Internet.
The Holga shutter works independently from the film advance, which allows you to press the shutter as many times as you like on the same frame. Besides the creative door this opens, a key technical benefit is that you can build up exposures in low light situations. Be sure to use a tripod to minimize camera shake.
Custom Masks This is another simple mod: making a custom mask to create your own unique border for your images. Again, take some dark paper (or thin cardboard) measuring about 8x7cm, fold it down to about 6x7cm, cut or rip out the center in whatever pattern Low-tech success: An art student you wish, and then tape the whole thing to used a Holga in a place where 120 film and fancy batteries were the interior of the camera where the plastic scarce. The film was processed and mask normally goes. (Note: If you have a printed in a janitorial closet. Holga 120FN or CFN, you will need to tape the batteries down to keep them in place without the plastic mask.) Wide-Angle Lenses Coincidentally, some inexpensive wide-angle lenses originally designed as add-on accessories for compact digital cameras can be mated to a Holga as well. If the lens attachment is almost identical in diameter to the Holgas lens barrel, the lens can usually be taped to the front of the barrel quite easily. You will need to examine the lens attachment and your Holga beforehand to see if they match up. in fact, if youre lucky you may discover that the lens attachment can screw directly onto the barrel itself, no tape necessary! (Note: since the Holga is technically, at least a rangefinder camera, you will not be able to see exactly what the wide-angle image looks like through the Holga 120S with a wideviewfinder. Therefore, some practice and guesswork angle accessory originally are in order when first starting out.) for a digital point-and-shoot. Adding Traditional Photographic Filters to your Holga Even though there are various Holga filters to choose from, you may want to utilize traditional photographic filters that you already own. Holgas do not have filter threads so you will need to make a mild modification to the lens. The diameter of a Holga lens is 46mm. Find a 46-49mm step-up ring. Hold your Holga tightly and in a forceful motion, twist the 46mm ring into the

You can advance the film a little at a time to create multiple-image panoramas. Photo by Kit Frost
Long exposures are easily achieved when using the bulb setting built into the Holga 120N, FN, CFN, 120-3D, WPC and 35mm cameras. Simply mount the camera on a tripod and set the exposure switch to the B position. Push down the shutter release button and keep it down as long as desired. Then, release the button to close the shutter to complete the picture taking cycle. (Note: use of a tripod and the Holga Cable Release is highly recommended to reduce camera shake and blur. When finished, remember to set the B exposure switch back to the N position or you may end up with a roll of pictures full of motion.)
MODIFYING & PERSONALIZING YOUR HOLGA
There are many things you can do to modify a Holga. Among other things, weve heard rumor of a Holgablad a Holga mated to a Hasselblad Planar lens. Here are a few more practical changes you can make. Lens Hood This is an easy and cheap mod to reduce lens flare. Just get some tape and dark paper, and fashion a ring that you fit snugly on to your lens barrel.
pliable lens plastic. Keep the ring as straight as possible and twist it in as far as you can. Apply a seal of hot glue, and you have a permanent 49mm filter thread. Feel free to add more filter rings on top in various sizes to accommodate any filter or lens adapter you already own. Again, this modification is permanent and will not allow you to use the various sets of Holga-specific filters, so have more than one Holga handy. Stereoscopic Mounting two Holgas a few hand widths apart on a board can add new dimension to your photos literally! Set your board with a 1/4-20 tripod mount (also called a quarter-twenty mount) and shoot everything twice, once with each camera. Seen together under a stereoscopic viewer, your double photos will jump off the table in 3-D. Parallax has never been more fun! This works with both color and black and white film, and if you have a light table, then slide film works, too. How far apart your cameras need to be depends on how far away your subject is. The further away it is, the further apart your cameras need to be. Use large rubber bands to mount your cameras so that you can easily adjust the distance between them. Or, if you dont want to deal with such a setup, you can always pick up the Holga 120-3D stereo camera, so you can explore the world of stereo photography with a single convenient (albeit very wide) camera body. Holgas Adapted to Accept 35mm Film The beauty of using 35mm film in your medium format Holga is twofold. First, you get an image much longer than the standard 35mm area. Second, you expose the entire section of film, including the sprocket holes. It is a type of image unlike any other, instantly recognizable upon viewing. There are two ways to adapt your medium format Holga for 35mm use. One is the following simple modification. First, cut foam inserts to center and secure the cartridge of a roll of 35mm film where the roll of 120 film normally goes. The idea is to make sure the film stays centered and travels straight across the film plane behind the lens. Now, pull the leader of the 35mm film out and stretch it across to the 120mm take-up spool. Tape the film securely to the spool. Wind the film, making sure the film is centered on the take-up spool.

Replace the camera back and shoot. Now come the interesting parts
With your film loaded, you must completely tape up the film counter window because there is no protective paper backing on 35mm film. If you accidentally leave the film counter window uncovered, you will expose your filmand usually not in a good way. Obviously, there are no numbers for you to count exposures with. You will have to estimate how far to advance the film after each shot. It involves counting the clicks as you wind the film: about 34 clicks per each 6x6cm frame. After you process your own film you will notice an increasingly wider gap between frames. If you feel like compensating, you can reduce the number of clicks by 1 for every three exposures. The second method is to simply buy the Holga 35mm Conversion Kit. However, the kit differs from the modification just listed in a very significant way: it makes the camera shoot in a standard 35mm framein other words, the sprocket holes and panorama effects will not happen with the kit. Whether youre using the kit or making your own mod, after you are done shooting (i.e. when the film will no longer advance), you will need to extract your creation. For this we have two words for you: total darkness. You need a changing bag or a darkroom because your film is outside of its canister. If you plan to process the film yourself, simply cut the film from both ends (the canister and the spool). Load the film directly onto a 35mm developing reel and drop it into your tank. Lid on? OK, lights on. If you dont plan on processing the film yourself, then retract it back into the film canister before taking it to your local lab. Personalizing the Chassis Until recently, the popular saying was that Holgas come in any color you want, as long as its black. The Holgawood line of colored cameras has changed that, but this hasnt stopped people from further personalizing their Holgas in fun and eclectic ways. After all, your Holga is not a temple, it is a work in progress! So, fear no glue stains and go all out in your quest for unique photo fashion. Limitations? Your own imagination and the inventory of your local supply stores, hardware stores or swap meets. Standard equipment? Spray paint, fingernail polish, stickers, fake fur, bits of plastic, swap meet jewelry, Kewpie doll hair. the possibilities are endless. Three words of advice: Hot-Glue-Gun.

Photo by Oliver Tan

HOLGA POLAROID BACK
For many, this is the next step towards becoming a full-fledged Holgamaniac. Long sought after by Holga users, the aesthetic values of instant film matches that of the Holga camera perfectly. The Polaroid back for the Holga was designed for Polaroid 3.25x4.24 pack films, and currently takes Fujis FP line of instant films. It exposes an approximate 3 x 3 image area, and is custom built to fit all Holga standard medium format cameras, installing easily onto each of them within seconds. The Polaroid back comes with a 6x6 film mask, a.3x diopter (which adjusts the Holgas film plane to accommodate the Polaroid back) and an external viewfinder for precise composition within the frame. When used properly and with imagination, it becomes an amazing way to take instant pictures. Instant Films That Are Holga-Compatible Film Polaroid 664 B&W Polaroid 667 B&W Polaroid 672 B&W Polaroid 669 Color Polaroid 690 Color Fuji FP 100C Color Fuji FP 100B B&W Fuji FP 3000B B&W Speed (ISO 100) (ISO 3000) (ISO 400) (ISO 80) (ISO 100) (ISO 100) (ISO 100) (ISO 3000)

Split Image Filter Lens Set The Split Image lens set features three prism-like inserts that create remarkable abstract multiples. Each lens in this set will surprise and please any photographer as it splits, repeats and blends in totally unique ways. The set includes a four-facet lens with center focus, a three-facet vertical lens and a three-facet pyramid lens. Soft Surround Filter Set With a clear center, each of these four filters has a specially designed pattern that enhances the Holgas natural focus vignetting. Drawing the eye toward the center of an image, these filters are excellent for unique documentary, portrait or fine art style images. Set comes with a red, yellow, blue and neutral density filter in soft-surround.

HOLGA CABLE RELEASE

A must have for every Holga! This custom adapter fits snugly over the lens of your camera allowing you to use a cable release. It also does not interfere with the tripod mount and Bulb setting switch on the Holga 120N, FN, CFN, 120-3D and Holga pinholes. In addition, the cable release can be used separately from the adapter on the Holga 35mm camera.
The amazing Holgaroid (Polaroid style back) for the Holga. a perfect pairing.

HOLGA FISHEYE LENSES

HOLGA LENS & FILTER ATTACHMENTS
Expand your Holga universe and spur your creativity with the Holga Filter Holder. The holder fits like a cowling over the lens barrel. It slips on easily, stays on firmly and is removableno glue, hooks or tape needed. There are a lot of complex do-it-yourself solutions out there, but why make your life more complex? Thats so un-Holga. Once you have your filter holder in place, new possibilities become available: Color Filter Set The color filter set includes red, yellow, blue and green filters and can be used to create bold, vibrant images. They can also adjust the contrast of black and white photographs. In true Holga fashion, there are no contrast or colorcorrection numbers on the filters.
Yes, you read correctly: two real fisheye lens attachments for the Holgain both glass and plastic! The glass lens is a three-element item that fits over the lens barrel of your Holga, providing nearly 180 degrees of view in a circular, heavily distorted image. The lens includes two mounting rings one for regular shooting, and one for use with the Polaroid back. Mounting threads on the front of the lens allow filters to be used as well, although this reduces the image area slightly. Focusing is from as close as 1 cm to as far away as infinity. Since this lens is a glass one, it produces images that some Holga connoisseurs might consider to be too sharp, which is why Holga has also come out A Holga Fisheye Lens changes with a plastic lens that works much the same the entire nature of the image. as the glass one, only with a softer image. Photo by Michael Tullberg.

THE HOLGAWOOD COLLECTION

Until recently, Holgas came in only one color black. However, peoples tastes run the gamut, which prompted the creation of the Holgawood Collection, a series featuring ten new colors for the classic Holga 120N. Inspired by the classic Tinseltown theme, the Holgawood Collection has a color for anybodys personal preference. Oscar gold, Commando camouflage, Pretty in PinkHolgawood makes your camera fashionable as well as quirky.
47mm. The 135BC version adds even more: an internal mask that partially covers the shutter, which makes the resulting image even softer than normal. The 135PC is the pinhole version of this camera, which is described below.
THE HOLGA PINHOLE CAMERAS

COLLECTION

& Design 2008 Hollywood Chamber of Commerce. The Hollywood Sign and Hollywood Walk of Fame TM are trademarks and intellectual property of Hollywood Chamber of Commerce. All Rights Reserved.

THE 35MM HOLGA CAMERA

The easiest way for anyone to get into pinhole photography, the Holga pinholes are essentially a Holga 120 or 135 body with the lens removed and replaced with a pinhole. The lensless body produces infinite depth of field, meaning that under most conditions, everything is reasonably sharp and detailed. And, with the addition of the Holga 120WPC and 120PC-3D models, you can make super-wide and stereo pinhole images that go far beyond anything shot with a standard camera. Since pinhole is literally the starting point for all photography that followed, the Holga Pinhole is a great (and inexpensive!) tool for stripping photography down to its absolute basics. A tripod and cable release are highly recommended when using the Holga Pinhole, as exposure times will be much longer than those used in regular photography.
In 2005, Holga went into limited production of two 35mm camera models, which sold out quickly and became collectors items. Buoyed by the success of the cameras but not entirely satisfied with the design, Holga went back to the drawing board and created not one but three new 35mm cameras based in part on the existing Holga 120 body. The Holga 135, 135 BC and 135PC are compact, simple cameras with most of the same quirky characteristics of their larger cousins. Now anyone can enjoy shooting with the Holga, even those without access to 120 film processing! The Holga 135 is the 35mm equivalent to the bare-bones Holga 120N, with the addition of a handy pressure plate inside the cameras back door, and a lens with a focal length of approximately

STEREO HOLGA CAMERAS

Holga 35mm and 35mm pinhole cameras.
Its back to the future as Holga taps the cutting edge photo technology of the century. the 19th century! Recalling the days before movies and radio became the rage, the 120-3D Holga produces analog stereo images that pop out in true 3-D when looked at through Holgas special viewer. Its a great way to see your images move beyond the two-dimensional confines of paper, as well as stop people in their tracks when they see you with this wide-body monster! Available in both standard and pinhole models.

QUOTES

HOLGA HELP (FAQ)
Take your Holga out for a ride. Stop often. Play.
Kit Frost, Professional Photographer
Mechanically the Holga is simplicity itself. The nature of the Holga places emphasis on seeing, thinking, and interacting with the environment at hand.
Joe Ostraff, Professor, BYU
Q: Can I use slide film in my Holga? A: Sure. You just need to be more careful with your exposure estimates as slide film is less forgiving than print film. Feeling adventurous? Cross-process your slide film. Q: What is the easiest film to use as a beginner Holga owner? A: C-41 type B&W film is great for beginners. It is more forgiving, comes in ISO 400 speed, and you can take it to a 1-hour lab so you can see your results right away. Q: Can I choose a focusing range other than what is shown? A: Yes, by placing your focus point somewhere between the distance icons. However, the options available cover most of the bases. The minimum focus range will always be about three feet. Q: My pictures are dark in the corners. What am I doing wrong? A: Nothing. This effect is called vignetting and is a natural part of a Holgas optics. If you prefer to minimize this effect, make sure to use the 6x4.5 mask. Q: My pictures are more than fuzzy, they are blurry. What happened? A: Your film may be loose and not flush with the film plane. Check to make sure that your cardboard wedge is in place and working properly. Q: Can I use my Holga FN or CFN with studio strobes? A: Yes. Set up your lighting with a photo slave. It triggers your strobes when the cameras built-in flash goes off. Just make sure that the slaves are close enough to pick up the cameras flash. Q: Can I use infrared film in a Holga? A: Yes, but the impact of light leaks can be more pronounced on infrared films. You should make sure your Holga doesnt leak light by taping up all the seams. Q: Ive had my Holga for a long time, but now my pictures are way overexposed. Whats wrong? A: Your Holgas shutter spring may have finally worn outtime for a new Holga! But dont throw away your old onefeel free to tinker with it and come up with exciting new mods of your own! Q: Can I enter my Holga pictures in photo contests? A: Absolutely. Holga images have become increasingly accepted in photo competitions. The most prolific is probably the annual Krappy Kamera competition, held by the Soho Gallery in New York. For details visit: www.sohophoto.com.

The Holga summons up Dadaist traditions of chance, surprise, and willingness to see what can happen.
Robert Hirsch, Photographic Historian, in his book Photographic Possibilities (with J. Valentino. Focal Press 2001)
As for the Holga, I like using it and making my students use it, because it encourages the photographer to concentrate on his/her relationship with the subject without technology getting in the way. The resulting images depend on the photographers presence (of mind and body).
Lesley Krane, educator at California State University, Northridge
As the Koordinator of the Krappy Kamera Competition, Ive seen thou sands of images produced with this camera. I am always awed by the variety of images that can be produced with such minimal equipment.
Sandy Carrion, Coordinator of the Krappy Kamera Competition.
I still have the first Holga I ever bought back in 1988. I loved it then and still do, especially with black and white film.
Julia Dean, founder of the Julia Dean Photographic Workshops.
I love my Holgas and I have eight of them. As a designer and art director, I have used Holga cameras on many photo shoots and clients love the different effects!
Randy Thomas, Founder, Randy Thomas Design Agency.
Both detail and saturation are well within a Holgas abilities. Photo by Kit Frost.

GALLERY

A selection of images taken with a Holga camera
Photo by Skip Smith Photo by Doug Bundren Photo by America Alfaro Photo by Sherry Lee
Photo by Bill Vaccaro Photo by Pam Connolly Anonymous Photo by Michael Tullberg
Photo by Susan Lirakis Photo by Michelle Bates Photo by Kristina Loughery Photo by Ann Texter

5. Using the Flash

s For HOLGA120SF
A) Set to ON by sliding the flash ON/OFF switch (10) to the right. B) The flash may be used when the flash lamp (9) begins to flash on and off. (The camera will make a high-pitched sound until it has recharged. This is not a product fault.)

HOLGA by Polaroid

s For HOLGA120S
For the HOLGA120S, flashes available on the market can be connected to the hot shoe located in the upper part of the camera. In this case, the camera is used with the focus set to F/8 ([cloudy] on the weather switch (7)). In many cases, the flash fails to work (does not synchronize) or flashes twice (once when pressing the shutter button, and again when releasing the shutter button) when a flash available on the market is connected to the HOLGA120S. In cases where the flash occurs twice, a slight delay in releasing the shutter button is recommended.
A Concise Guide to the HOLGA120S & 120SF
Welcome to the world of HOLGA cameras!
The HOLGA characterizes the world of novelty cameras, representing an inexpensive and unique camera which is truly fun to have. Find out why the HOLGA has captivated professional enthusiasts and artists around the world!
This concise guide contains several points of interest in regards to the imperfections of the HOLGA camera. As a result of its unique design the HOLGA has continued to draw passionate support from photography fans around the globe. We encourage you to experiment with the photographic effects that can be acheived and enjoy the mysterious charm that the HOLGA has to offer.

6. Extracting the Film

A) Continue to turn the winding dial (4) in the direction of the arrow until the film has completely wound off. B) Once the film has been completely wound off, open the back cover and extract the film. C) Wind the film firmly around the spool for development.

Caution

The core remaining in the film chamber is used as a spool to wind the film for the next set of exposures. Film which is not tightly wound around the spool will result in photosensitivity. Film should be removed in a dark location in order to prevent photosensitivity. Used film should be stored in a dark location and should be developed as soon as possible. (1) Lens (2) Focus Ring (3) Shutter (4) Winding Dial (5) Flash* (6) Finder (7) Weather Switch (8) Back Cover (9) Flash Lamp* (10) Flash ON/OFF Switch* (11) Film Counter (12) Anchor * HOLGA 120SF only
Getting the most out of the HOLGA
When the shutter button is pressed and then pressed again without winding the film, the resulting picture has an overlapping effect (multiple exposure). This produces an unexpected result which can be a lot of fun to try. There are countless other ways in which the HOLGA can be used. For example, some people take pictures with a 35mm film (normal size film). Others damage the lens with a file to deliberately produce pictures with interesting effects. Professionals set up full-scale lighting equipment in photography studios only to take pictures with a HOLGA. Other photographers take brilliant portraits of film directors and musicians using a HOLGA. Simply put, the HOLGA is the worlds most unpredictable, uncontrollable, and beloved cameras. There are no rules. Enjoy the freedom of a HOLGA. Good luck!

Lens Shutter

For inquiries concerning HOLGA please call toll-free 800-225-1618. Lines open Monday-Friday 8 am to 7 pm EST. For more information visit www.polaroid.com.
f/8 60mm (plastic lens) Approx. 1/100th second Leaf Shutter Focus 1m~ Film Used Conventional 120 roll film or Polaroid Type 80 Series (84, 85, 87, 88, 89) Image Area 4.5cm x 6cm 6cm x 6xcm External Measurements 140 x 102 x 76(mm) Weight 200g Accessories Neck Strap
1. Inserting the Batteries (HOLGA120SF only)
A) Slide the anchor (12) downward (Picture 1), and remove the back cover (8) (Picture 2). B) Take out the frame mask located inside (Picture 3). C) Insert 2 triple A batteries (Picture 4). Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4

3. Inserting the 120 Film
A) Slide the anchor (12) downward and remove the back cover. B) Peel off the film seal and place in the film chamber (Picture 5). C) Pull the tip of the film out approximately 10cm and insert this into the cut in the spool (the core which winds the film), and turn the winding dial (4) 2 or 3 times in the direction of the arrow until the film is securely wound onto the spool (Picture 6). D) Return the back cover (4) to its original position and firmly close the back cover by sliding the anchor over it (Picture 7). E) Turn the winding dial in the direction of the arrow until the number [1] appears in the red window of the film counter (11) (Picture 8). Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7 Picture 8

Attention

Batteries not included Batteries are prone to being dislodged. We therefore recommended that the batteries are secured with tape. Batteries are not required when flash is not in use.
The camera is now ready to take a picture.
2. Selecting the Frame Format
This camera is capable of taking photographs in 2 types of format: 4.5cm x 6cm and 6cm x 6cm.
The film size used for the HOLGA is 120. This can be obtained at the camera store by asking for a conventional 120 roll film. Refer to the manual attached to the Polaroid holder concerning Polaroid photography

For 4.5cm x 6cm Format:

1. Open the back cover (8) of the camera and attach the frame included with the camera to the camera (attached as such at time of purchase). 2. Set the mark on the film counter (11) on the back cover to [16]. This enables 16 exposures per role of film.

For 6cm x 6cm Format:

1. Open the back cover of the camera and detach the frame included with the camera. Although photographs may be taken with the frame left attached, use of the 6cm x 6cm frame included with the Polaroid holder is ideal in order to avoid sagging in the film. 2. Set the mark on the film counter (11) on the back cover to [12]. This enables 12 exposures per role of film.

4. Taking the Picture

A) Adjust the weather switch (7) according to the type of weather (sunny/cloudy). B) Adjust the focus ring (2) according to the distance from the camera to the subject (the object to be taken). C) Look through the finder (6) from the back of the camera, set the composition for the picture, and slowly depress the shutter button (3). The picture has now been taken. D) Turn the winding dial (4) in the direction of the arrow until the next number appears in the red window of the film counter (11). The camera is now ready to take the next picture. Mark
Distance to Subject Approx. 1m Approx. 3m Approx. 6m
Use a screw driver should the mark on the back cover be too stiff to move manually. In the event of using a screw driver, take care not to damage the red window.

Approx. 10m or more

IMPORTANT

s Light Leaks

With a HOLGA, the film is often partially exposed due to light leaks. Although this does not concern many users, this can be avoided by covering the window of the film counter (11) with material such as tape. We recommend the black tape which is available at camera stores. To prevent light leaks altogether, the gaps between the body of the camera and the back cover should be taped over completely.

s Back Cover

The body of the camera and the back cover are held together by a simple anchor. For this reason, the back cover may become dislodged during exposure or transportation. We therefore recommend that the back cover be secured using material such as tape.

s Neck Strap

The neck strap is designed to be attached by threading through the upper part of the anchor. However, when hanging the camera on the neck strap, the weight of the camera can often pull the strap away from the body of the camera, bringing the entire anchor with it. This not only results in exposure of the film, but there is also a danger of dropping and damaging the camera itself. Therefore, we do not recommend the use of the neck strap.

s Film Guide

120 film is normally used with a HOLGA. Polaroid Peel-Apart Film 80 Series can be used when using a Polaroid holder. When taking pictures with a 120 film under sunny conditions, we recommend the use of a film with a sensitivity of ISO100~400. In cloudy conditions resulting in underexposure, a good effect may be achieved by depressing the shutter button twice.