De-Constructed Garment Sewing with Louise Cutting
It is always a joy to welcome Louise Cutting representing Rowenta to America Sews and Sue loved Louises Deconstruction techniques! Louise is a couture designer and teacher and her patterns always include excellent instructions and great couture tips. Ready to wear is showing garments with lots of different shapes, raw edge nishes and texture. The de-construction technique has been around for about 10 years however now we are seeing it in mainstream designs. De-construction needs to be done in the right way, and Louise brought all the tips for our viewers. Sue wore a Jackwrap which Louise created by using half of her High Five Jacket from the Shapes pattern line. The result is half a jacket, with the other half a shawl. The entire garment features a silk de-constructed nish. A bias cut silk taffeta strip is stitched on both sides of the raw edges. The raw edge Hong Kong nish is used on the seams with the seams stitched to the outside. Louises jacket features a de-constructed raw edge fabric down the front of the jacket. To create a De-constructed Edge nish on your jacket, eliminate the seam allowance on the edges you plan to
Louise Cutting and Sue Hausmann

Sewing Supplies:

Husqvarna Viking sewing machine Rowenta Expert Steam Generator Iron Rowenta Ironing Board Chenille Brush 15mm Rotary Cutter Rotary Cutting Mat Fusible interfacing Silk organza 1/4 wide Steam-A-Seam Clear View S Foot #51-45 Shapes Patterns by Louise Cutting and Linda Lee
High Five Jacket Twos Company Tunic Plus One Tunic Three Fold Vest Six Sense Skirt Four Good Measure Top Crazy Eight Top Nine Lives Vest 1
nish with this technique and eliminate the facing from the pattern as you cut the jacket out. Always cut the nishing strips on the bias. Use your Rowenta Steam Generator Iron to steam your fabric before cutting to eliminate any wrinkles and to preshrink. Press pattern pieces with a dry setting on your Rowenta. For the Deconstructed Jacket, cut the bias strip from the fashion fabric or a contrasting fabric, 1 1/4 wide. You will be stitching it along the jacket edges. If you need to piece the strips, simply butt the next strip edge up to the last, no need to stitch the strips together, when the edges bloom you wont see where one end stops and the next strip starts. In the center of the wrong side of each strip, place 1/4 Steam-a-Seam. Press lightly with a steam iron. Remove the paper and fuse the strip to the jacket matching the raw edges. When pressing a fabric with a synthetic blend, use a silk organza press cloth. Press another strip in the same way to the wrong side of the garment, matching all the raw edges. Snap on your Clear View S foot. Stitch the bias strip to the jacket edge with two rows of stitching 1/8 apart. This is easy when you stitch the rst with left needle position and then the second row with right needle position. The two rows of stitching will keep the bias from rolling up. To uff the bias strip, place a ruler with only 1/4 to 1/2 of the strip edge sticking out. Brush this edge with a wire chenille brush to uff. Because you
dont want to damage the jacket fabric, on the edge of the strip that is over the jacket, place a manila folder underneath the strip and then use the ruler and brush. The manila folder will protect the fabric from the wire brush. Use the steam only from your Rowenta Expert Steam Generator to steam the strip edges to give even more dimension. Louise nished the pocket on the blue fabric with a chenille strip. The top edge of the pocket has been interfaced, serged just along the top and turned to the wrong side. The side and bottom edgesof the pocket are not turned under. The bias strip of fabric is stitched along the raw edge. If your pocket fabric frays you may want to nish the side and bottom edges raw edges with your Huskylock serger before stitching the strip in place. Place the bias strip of fabric so the outside edge of the strip matches the raw edge of the pocket. Stitch the bias strip to the pocket with two rows of stitching 1/8 apart. At the top of the pocket where the bias edges nish, you dont have to turn these short edges under, just let them bloom Steam the chenille to uff. Louise emphasized that the fabric strips for this deconstruction technique are always cut on the bias. Bias strips will not fray out. This is why you must brush them to fray the edges and can create just the amount of fray you desire. Louise also uses her Rowenta Expert Steam Generator to press the strips and the steam only to uff them. Louise also nished the raw edges of a linen shell with 2

her deconstruction technique. When you cut out the shell, leave seam allowance on. Cut the bias strip 1 1/4 wide from your fashion fabric. To add a bit of interest use a light weight silk fabric or a quality hand dyed bias silk ribbon. Place the strip on the wrong side of the neck edge. Select straight stitch and adjust the needle position two clicks toward the garment. Stitch in the center of the strip. Use your Rowenta Expert Steam Generator to steam press the strip rst towards the right side of the garment, leaving the strip at. Then fold the strip in half, bringing the strip around to the right side and steam press. Clip the neck edge of the garment where necessary.
designers did it. Stitch a strip of bias silk organza to the wrong side at the center of a fashion fabric strip. You can use one or two layers of bias (or straight of grain) fashion fabric strips before applying to the garment.
Use the brush, a ruler to protect the bias strip (moving it around the curve as needed) and the manilla folder under the strip to uff the edge slightly.
Two layers of the fashion fabric will give a fuller fringe. Fold the bias strip of the fashion fabric in half and steam press. The bias strip of silk organza will be pressed in the opposite direction in half. With a rotary cutter, trim the two layers of silk organza to. Match the raw edges of the silk organza to the raw edge of the garment and pin in place. Using a zipper foot, stitch the fringe to the garment catching just the silk organza in the seam allowance. If you are working with a plaid or check fabric, use the strip of fashion fabric on the straight of grain. Move the fringe strip up and down the edge of the garment so the fringe with match the same line of the plaid or check. After the garment is completed, using a rotary cutter, trim the fringe to the desired width and pull all the loose threads in the fringe. How to make a Jackwrap using the High Five jacket from Shapes pattern line.the Left Front and Sleeve are just like the pattern. As in most patterns, the back of the High Five Jacket has back of the garment cut on the fold. Using the back pattern, tape the tissue at the center back to a very long strip of paper (make sure the tissue is facing toward the left side of the paper that has been taped to the pattern piece). Extend the neck and hem horizontal lines out. You will be able to gure this length by taking a measurement on you. Start to 3
When you use a hand dyed silk bias ribbon for this technique, because it has burned edges it wont fray so you can trim the edges so the deconstructed edges will fray. The black and white check silk tweed featured self fabric to create the deconstruction technique to nish the edges of a garment. If the fashion fabric is just stitched and trimmed to create fringe, it can become worn and tired looking. Louise gured out how the upscale

measure with a tape measure at your center back, wrap it around your upper arm loosely, across your front, up over the opposite shoulder, and let the tape measure hang down your back. The width of the paper will be taped to the center back of the pattern (from neck to hem). This is the length you will need to make the
extension of paper from the center back of the High Five jacket. The longer the garment hangs down your back, the more dramatic effect it has and the more the garment will stay in place, because of the weight of the fabric. Dont forget to give yourself enough fabric to create long fringe. Usually the Jackwrap needs to be made in a hand woven, boucle, or a fabric with a bit of weight and drape. Both the wrong and right sides of the fabric will show in this garment. If all the edges were nished in the conventional way, (turned under twice) so the
wrong and right sides are clean nished.it would give the appearance of the home made look to the garment.adding a great deal of bulk. The entire outside edge can have deconstruction edging added. This will keep the fashion fabric at and crisp with a professional results in the end.
Thanks to our Underwriter:

www.rowenta.com

2805 Quick Project
Remembrance Pictures in Stitches

with Jared Collins

Jared Collins joined Sue with a Family Portrait quick project. The picture is actually stitching and was created in the Husqvarna Viking 4D Family Portrait Embroidery Software Program. This software program is for all brands of embroidery machines and can save the photo les in all formats. Go to a Husqvarna Viking store for more information. The quilt on the wall was a family tree quilt that was created in the 4D Family Portrait software and stitched out as as a gift for Sue and Herb by the software developers in London, VSM Software. The Family Portrait software program is also a genealogy program that saves family history information and provides the opportunity to select from many different family tree type layouts for projects.
Sue Hausmann, Louise Cutting and Jared Collins Sewing Supplies:
Robison Anton 40 weight Rayon Thread (the 4D
Family Portrait program will tell you exactly which colors to use for your stitched picture) Husqvarna Viking Sewing and Embroidery Machine Husqvarna Viking 4D Family Portrait Software Program or Optional: EQ Printable Fabric Inspira size 100 Topstitch Needle Inspira Cut-A-Way stabilizer Jennys Magic Tassel Maker #140003241 Husqvarna Viking Sensor Q Foot Husqvarna Viking 6mm Beading Foot Havels Scissors Husqvarna Viking Watercolor Bobbins Husqvarna Viking 8-Spool Thread Rack Rowenta Expert Steam Generator Iron Shadow Box Frame stitches. The rst step is to scan or import your picture into the program. The Wizard will take it from there and guide you to crop the photo and remove the background if desired. As the Wizard creates the stitch picture, the 4D Family Portrait Software program chooses the very best colors of Robison Anton thread. It is very important to use the exact colors the program recommends. Robison Anton will soon be offering two special esh tone collections of thread for this purpose. There are usually quite a few 5

Jared brought a smaller version which would be a great rst project for those just starting to use embroidery software and embroidery machines. He chose a graduation theme and created a memory box for his sister featuring the stitched photo, embroidered 09 and a clever tassel created to match the stitching with the new tassel maker. Once you have opened 4D Family Portrait software, the Wizard will do all the steps of turning your picture into
colors so it helps to place the 8 Spool Thread Rack on your Husqvarna Viking to keep the colors in order. Set up for embroidery. The stitching becomes very dense when you embroider a picture in 4D Family Portrait so Jared recommends hooping 2 layers of Cut-A-Way Stabilizer and using the Sensor Q Foot. Embroider your picture! If you do not own an embroidery machine yet, an alternative for creating this memory box is to print the photo onto EQ Printable fabric with an ink jet printer. Follow the instructions on the package. Jared used Jennys Magic Tassel maker to create the tassel for the graduation hat. This adds a great 3D element to the memory box. Select three different thread colors and wrap the tassel maker tool about 50 times. Then snap on the 6mm beading foot and select a 7mm satin stitch. Place the tassel maker tool under the presser foot and pull the threads together at the center and satin stitch over them You will need to hand feed the tool as you satin stitch. The tunnel on the underside of the beading foot rides over the satin stitch. The threads are then cut and the tassel folded and satin stitched again. Complete instructions are included with Jennys Magic Tassel maker.
Thanks to the Underwriter of our Quick Project:
Place your stitched picture, tassel and other elements into the shadow box and enjoy!

www.robison-anton.com

Portable Organizer With Annie Lindsay

Sewing Supplies:

Husqvarna Viking Sewing Machine Husqvarna Viking Huskylock Serger Dream World Sew Steady Acrylic Table for Sewing Machine Dream World Sew Steady Acrylic Table for Serger Dream World Bendable Bright Light #140003053 Havelss Scissors Warm and Natural Batting Husqvarna Viking Clear A Presser Feet Set #920237096 Husqvarna Viking Clear Piecing Foot #412927447 Inspira Size 90/14 Universal Needle 8 Spool Thread Rack Applique Press Sheet Rowenta Expert Steam Generator Iron Rotary Cutting Mat, Cutter and Ruler 1 2/3 yds for Large (2 yds Big) double-sided quilted fabric yd fabric for outside pocket and to make 1 yard of bias to bind bag ap 1 1/8 yds for Large (2 yds for Big) divider fabric 1 yd total assorted prints or solids for pockets Bias Tape Maker 3 x 27 Ultrasuede Soft Organizer bottom edge Two 2 3/8 x 6 Ultrasuede Soft webbing handle covers Mettler Silk Finish Cotton Thread to match Robison Anton 40 weight Rayon thread for topstitching 3 yds for Large (3 2/3 yds for Big) webbing 20of hook and loop tape (cut into pieces) Rulers 6 x 12 and 6 x 24 Small bowl that measures 5 6 across (for drawing ap curve)
Annie Lindsay and Sue Hausmann
Annie Lindsay from Dream World Company joined Sue to share how the Dream World Company began and to teach a very functional Portable Organizer to carry all your sewing supplies to class. Annie has always been an avid sewer and about 16 years ago she was teaching machine embroidery and needed a large at surface around the free arm of her sewing machine to support her free motion pieces and make it easier. She asked her husband Scot to make one for her and he went right to the garage to get to work. He did not have any plywood which would have been his rst choice at the time but he had a piece of acrylic and brought it in to show Annie. She asked him to cut it to t around the free arm, put legs on it and make it smooth and within the day Scot had created the rst acrylic sewing extension table. Soon everyone wanted one of these practical and functional sewing tools and Dream World was born!
Thanks to our Underwriter:

www.dreamworld-inc.com

Today Scot and Annies company, Dream World makes Sew Steady Acrylic Tables for all brands and models of sewing machines and sergers. Your local Husqvarna Viking Store will order whatever size and style you need to t your machine and overlock/serger. There is sure to be one to t your sewing, embroidering and quilting needs. Go to www.dreamworld-inc.com for more information to see all the sizes available. Dream Worlds newest sewing tool has been a real hit with sewers all over the country. The Bendable Bright Light is small yet very powerful with a 120 volt energy efcient pure white LED light that will give you 100,000 light hours. The Bright Light comes with an adhesive bracket that mounts on your sewing machine or serger. The quality metal housing has a exible arm that allows you to position the light just where you need it. We love using it on the Huskylock serger. So many people have asked for a light in the serger looper area. Now you can bend it down to shine into the looper area while threading then raise it up to the needle area while serging. The Bright Light that attaches to your sewing machine is a great accessory to carry with you to places where lighting is poor which is often the case at retreats and classes.
followed by measurements for the Big in parenthesis. If only one measurement or illustration is given for a step, it will apply to both sizes. All topstitching is done 1/16 from edge unless otherwise indicated. Topstitching on the webbing may be determined by the webbing because some webbings have nice lines to follow.

Inside Divider Sections

For Large Bag: Cut - x 27 (Fold each piece to measure 18 1/2 x 27 press the fold. For Big Bag: Cut - x 27 (Fold each piece to measure 24 1/2 x 27 press the fold. Set one divider section aside.

Pockets and aps.

Diagram 1 Pocket and ap sizes. Cut out pockets and aps. The outside pocket is made just a little differently. See Diagram 2 and 3. Label the pockets and the aps as to which edge is the top. Place ap pieces right sides together and stitch around the aps, leaving a 1 2 opening for turning along the top edge.
Annies Portable Organizer
Annie taught how to make this Portable Organizer Bag with sturdy straps, an Diagram 1 outside pocket for your Bendable Bright Pocket placement Light and the legs for your Dream World Flap cut two on divider Lg (Big) 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" Sew Steady Acrylic Table plus specially Divider Fold designed inside pockets and dividers for 1" 1" your Dream World Sew Steady Acrylic Table, rotary cutting mat and rulers, pressing mats, scissors, rotary cutters Pocket Cut two and sew much more. She originally Flap cut two 13 1/2" x 2 1/2" 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" Pocket cut two 13 1/2" x 4 1/2" (7 1/2") designed the Portable Organizer for (7 1/2") herself to carry her supplies to class and 1" 1" so many people loved it she is sharing the project with America Sews viewers. Open topstitched edge. No

3/4" flaps on bottom three pockets.
Flap cut two 2 1/2" x 7 1/2"
1" 3/4" Pocket cut two 7 1/2" x 4 1/2" (7 1/2") 1" Cut two 7 1/2" x 11 1/2" (14 1/2")
Annies instructions are for two sizes. The Large size carries the 18 x 24 Sew Steady Portable Table and the Big carries 24 x 24 Sew Steady Portable Table. Both Organizers will also carry many of these sewing supplies: cutting mats, embroidery hoops, large and small rulers, pressing mats, Bendable Bright Light, quilting templates as well as many of your smaller sewing notions. Seam allowances are all. Measurements for the Large will be
Cut two 13 1/2_ x 11 1/2" (14 1/2")
Cut two 4 1/2" x 11 1/2" (14 1/2")
Serge or zig zag this edge in step3 These two rows of stitching are done in Step 6
Place pocket pieces right sides together and stitch around the pockets, leaving a 1 2 opening along the bottom edge to turn them right side out. Before turning, use a pinking shear to trim along pocket and ap seam allowances. Turn them right side out. Spray generously with water as this will make pressing the edges much easier. Press the opening in each piece as straight as possible. This opening will be caught in the stitching that attaches the pocket/ap to the divider section.
Cut the outside pocket aps and stitch as in 1. Diagram 4 Place and stitch hook and loop tape on pockets/aps according to Diagram 4 and Diagram 1. For hook and loop tape general placement ideas. See Illustration 1, 2 and 3. It will be easier to add and remove items from the pockets if you put the hook side
Diagram 4 Back Outside Pocket

Top Fold Back 4"

Diagram 2 Outside Pocket
Top 1 1/2" 1 1/2" 1 1/2" 1 1/2" of the tape on the pocket and the loop side on the ap. Stitch hook and loop tape in directions as shown.

Diagram 5

Cut two 9" x 11" Stitch 1/4" seam along top and bottom edges with right sides together. 6 11" 3
Assemble Divider Sections
Diagram 2 Diagram 3 Once the pockets and aps are held together with the hook and loop tape pin them as shown in diagram 1 and topstitch in place. Set aside pocket and ap aside. After pockets and aps are stitched onto the divider, lay this divider section on the top of the remaining divider section. Pin the two sections together, along the side and bottom edges. Stitch two vertical rows of stitching as indicated in diagram 6 (Large) or diagram 7 (Big) as this will create three large ruler pockets. Serge or zig-zag

Diagram 3 Outside Pocket Flap
Topstitch this edge to organizer 4" from top fold. Leave open for turning
Cut two 3" x 9 1/2"

1 1/4"

9"
the bottom edge of the divider section.

Diagram 6

14" Top Fold 5" 8"

Bind the Flap

Cut 36 of bias fabric the width as recommended by the Bias Binding Tool. Pull the strip through the Bias Binding Tool and press to create bias binding for the ap. Lay front ap of Organizer on a at surface. Place a bowl, plate or coffee mug on the point. Trace the curve of the bowl then cut the curve just before applying the bias tape so that the edge does become distorted. You can also stay stitch this edge if you have trouble applying bias tape.

18 1/2"

Handle
zig zag/serge both divider sections together along the bottom edge Cut 104 (128) of webbing, this will allow an extra 2 for overlap. This overlap will be hidden at the bottom fold of the Organizer. If you butt the ends of the webbing together to make the at join you will need to remove those 2 extra inches. Pin the webbing as shown in diagram 9 8. Keep in mind the distance from the sides, where you stop to loop a handle and where the topstitching stops and starts. If this placement is not accurate your handles will not be the same length. Insert the outside pocket under the edge of the webbing before the topstitching is done. See diagram 9 Topstitch the webbing in place, catching the outside pocket on your way by but being careful not to catch the ap. Topstitch along the top edge of outside ap and bottom edge of pocket. Topstitch an Ultrasuede piece (3x 27) along bottom of Organizer. This gives a sturdy and washable base to your Organizer and adds a designer touch. Topstitch or zigzag stitch Ultrasuede to the center of the handles if desired.

Diagram 7

24 1/2"
zig zag/serge both divider sections together along the bottom edge
Quilted Organizer Outside
Cut Organizer shape from quilted fabric as shown in diagram 8 (page 5). Fold straight end to the inside to form a double 1 hem. Topstitch with matching thread 1/8 and again 7/8 from top edge. Attach three pieces of loop tape to the inside edge. The two sidepieces are 6 from the outer edge, the third in centered. When your Organizer is completed, you will sew the three matching hook pieces to the inside of the back, just below the fold.
Diagram 8 Cutting and Pinning

13 1/2" Round this point with bowl

10"

15" of webbing not stitched down
Top Fold 1" Topstitch 18" (24") of webbing after pocket has been inserted 1" Stop stitching on webbing 1" from fold Pocket goes here 19" (25)
40" (52") 3" x 27" of suede 9"
Bottom Fold Topstitch after webbing has been stitched on
Stop topstitching on belting 6 1/2" from top edge
12 1/2" (18 1/2")

19" (25)

26" of webbing not stitched down Inside top edge 1" double fold hem
Assemble the Organizer Lay Quilted
Organizer outside piece totally at right side up. Now take hemmed straight edge and fold it up to meet top back fold. Next lay divider section on top with the

Right side of flap

no pocket side facing up. See stacking diagram10. Pin generously along side seams. Hand tacking to match the Ultrasuede seam is a good idea as there are a lot of layers to match. Serge or sew and clean nish the side seams as desired. Turn right side out and press. Apply the three inside pieces of hook tape and one more set for front ap. You may wish to put items in your Organizer rst before deciding where to add the last remaining pieces of hook and loop tape.

Other Pattern Ideas:

Top stitch the top edge of each pocket and around the exposed edge of the aps, if desired. Adding aps to all 6 of the inside pockets, is up to you. Consider what you will be carrying in them. You may not need all of those pockets. You choose. Using Ultrasuede Soft is optional. Annie added it for better wear and character. Other durable fabrics could also be used. Large snaps could replace the use of hook and loop tape. Top stitching the webbing can be done just around the edges or you could stitch it multiple times. A decorative stitch could also be used instead of a straight stitch. We know you will sew enjoy your new Portable Organizer! Use it at home to keep everything together when you clean up!
No pocket side of divider section

Wrong side of front

Diagram 10 Stacking

2807 Quick Project

Machine Made Crochet with Lynn Lunoe

Lynn Lunoe joined Sue with a great embellishment idea. Add fun crocheted button trim to spruce up any jacket. The crochet for Lynns buttons was stitched on her Husqvarna Viking Embroidery Machine! She was inspired by a picture in one of the pricey catalogs and decided to she could create this upscale look for pennies! All Husqvarna Viking Embroidery Collections are on CD in multi formats. The design Lynn chose was a strip of insertion lace so Lynn brought Design 220803 into the Stitch Editor program of her Husqvarna Viking 4D Embroidery Software and edited the strip of lace into a square shape for the 5 x 7 Design Hoop. By copying and pasting the lace squares, Lynn lled her hoop with squares to embroider then saved them to her USB stick and took them to her Designer Diamond.
Sue Hausmann, Annie Lindsay and Lynn Lunoe Sewing Supplies:
Husqvarna Viking Designer Diamond Sewing and
Embroidery Machine Husqvarna Viking 4D Embroidery Software Husqvarna Viking Embroidery Collection Endless Romantic Cotton Lace #203 Robison Anton 40 weight Rayon Thread Robison Anton 30 weight cotton Thread Mettler 50 weight Silk Finish Cotton Thread Husqvarna Viking 5 x 7 Design Hoop Inspira Aqua Magic or Sulky Fabric Solvy Water Soluble Stabililzer Havels Scissors Inspira Size 90/14 Embroidery Needles
When selecting lace designs to embroider it is important to know whether the lace designs are digitized to be free standing or to be stitched on a background fabric to support them. The difference is that free standing designs can be stitched on water soluble stabilizer only and when the stabilizer is dissolved away the free standing lace will not fall apart. A lace design that is not free standing must be stitched on a sheer background fabric so it does not fall apart when the stabilizer is removed. For
this project you need to be sure your design is a free standing lace. Lynn set her Husqvarna Viking Designer Diamond for embroidery and hooped two layers of Inspira Aqua Magic water soluble stabilizer. Put in an Inspira size 90/14 Embroidery needle and thread with Robison Anton 40 weight rayon thread on top and matching Robison Anton 40 weight Rayon thread on the bobbin. It is important to use the same top and bobbin thread for lace because you will usually see both sides. This lace embroidery collection is digitized for cotton thread as it says in the title Endless Romantic Cotton lace however Lynn stitched samples in cotton and in Robison Anton Rayon thread and preferred the look of the Robison Anton Rayon thread. For this lace, turn off your Jump Stitch Trim command in the SET menu because when your machine automatically cuts jump stitches, the thread ends are all pulled to the wrong side of the design leaving a build up of thread ends which is not pretty on lace. Lynn stitched the lace square designs in different colors then stacked two different colored lace squares for each button. Once the embroidery is complete, remove it from the hoop, cut away the excess stabilizer and soak the lace squares in water to remove the rest of the water soluble stabilizer. Let the lace squares dry and press. Stack different colors of lace squares with one turned 45 degrees, place them on your jacket and stitch a button on top to hold them in place then enjoy the compliments.

Thanks to the Underwriter of our Quick Project: www.robison-anton.com