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The double insulated system is intended to protect the user from shock resulting from a break in the tool's internal wiring. Observe all normal safety precautions related to avoiding electrical shock.
Do not attempt to operate this tool until you have read thoroughly and understand completely all instructions, safety rules, etc. contained in this manual. Failure to comply can result in accidents involving fire, electric shock, or serious personal injury. Save owner's manual and review frequently for continuing safe operation, and instructing others who may use this tool.
The operation of any router can result in foreign objects being thrown into your eyes, which can result in severe eye damage. Before beginning power tool operation, always wear safety goggles or safety glasses with side shields and a full face shield when needed. We recommend Wide Vision Safety Mask for use over eyeglasses or standard safety glasses with side shields.
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS
1. KNOW YOUR POWER TOOL. Read owner's manual carefully. Safe operation of this power tool requires that you read and understand this owner's manual and all labels affixed to the tool. Learn its applications and limitations as well as the specific potential hazards related to this tool. GUARD AGAINST ELECTRICAL SHOCK by preventing body contact with grounded surfaces. For example: Pipes, radiators, ranges, refrigerator enclosures. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE and in working order. KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN. Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents. AVOID DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT. Don't use power tool in damp or wet locations or expose to rain. Keep work area well lit. KEEP CHILDREN AND VISITORS AWAY. All visitors should wear safety glasses and be kept a safe distance from work area. Do not let visitors contact tool or extension cord. STORE IDLE TOOLS. When not in use tools should be stored in a dry and high or locked-up place - out of the reach of children. DON'T FORCE TOOL. It will do the job better and safer at the rate for which it was designed. USE RIGHT TOOL. Don't force small tool or attachment to do the job of a heavy duty tool. Don't use tool for purpose not intended - for example - A circular saw should never be used for cutting tree limbs or logs. WEAR PROPER APPAREL. Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry that can get caught in tool's moving parts and cause personal injury. Rubber gloves and nonskid footwear are recommended when working outdoors. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair and keep it from being drawn into nearby air vents. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Everyday eyeglasses have only impact-resistant lenses; they are NOT safety glasses. PROTECT YOUR LUNGS. Wear a face or dust mask if operation is dusty. 23. 18. 13. 14. PROTECT YOUR HEARING. Wear hearing protection during extended periods of operation. DON'T ABUSE CORD. Never carry tool by cord or yank it to disconnect from receptacle. Keep cord from heat, oil and sharp edges. SECURE WORK. Use clamps or a vise to hold work. It's safer than using your hand and it frees both hands to operate tool. DON'T OVERREACH. Keep proper footing and balance at all times. Do not use on a ladder or unstable support. MAINTAIN TOOLS WITH CARE. Keep tools sharp at all times, and clean for best and safest performance. Follow instructions for lubricating and changing accessories. DISCONNECT TOOLS. When not in use, before servicing, or when changing attachments, blades, bits, cutters, etc., all tools should be disconnected from power supply. REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS AND WRENCHES. Form habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting wrenches are removed from tool before turning it on. AVOID ACCIDENTAL STARTING. Don't carry plugged-in tools with finger on switch. Be sure switch is off when plugging in.
Look for this symbol to point out important safety precautions. It means attention!!! Your safety is involved.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Your RE601 router has been shipped completely assembled and ready for use. After removing it from the box, inspect it carefully to make sure no breakage or damage has occurred during shipping. If any parts are damaged or missing, contact your nearest Ryobi dealer to obtain replacement parts before attempting to operate router. A 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) bit adapter, a 24 mm wrench, phillips flat head 8 mm screws (quantity 4), owner's operating manual, and warranty registration are the only loose parts included in the box.
If any parts are missing, do not operate your router until the missing parts are replaced. Failure to do so could result in possible serious personal injury.
HEAVY DUTY MOTOR
Your router has a powerful 15 amp motor with sufficient power to handle tough routing jobs. It delivers 3 horsepower for heavy duty performance. The motor also has externally accessible brushes for ease of servicing. the front of your router for protection against flying dust and chips. The shield fits the front opening of the router base. See Figure 1. If necessary to remove chip shield, loosen the knob screw and remove. For your protection, do not use router without chip shield properly in place with knob screw tightened securely.
To turn your router ON, depress the switch trigger. Release the switch trigger to turn your router OFF.
A spindle lock secures the spindle so that only one wrench is needed to loosen the collet nut and change cutters.
The soft start feature builds motor RPM gradually to minimize start-up torque.
The handles on your router have been designed so that they provide for easy handling and maintaining proper control when routing. The handles have also been designed so that they are comfortable and easy to grasp when operating in different positions.
Your router is equipped with a lock-on feature that is convenient when continuous operation for extended periods of time is required. To lock on, depress the trigger, push in the lock-on button located on the side of the handle, then while holding the lock-on button pushed in, release the trigger. To release the lock, depress the trigger and release it. See Figure 2.
ELECTRONIC VARIABLE CONTROL
Your router has advanced electronic features, designed to assist you in getting the maximum use from your router. By making proper speed selections, your router can be adjusted to specific routing needs. This eliminates much of the guess work previously needed to perform a given job. Both the experienced and inexperienced router users benefit, obtaining professional like results with fewer job errors.
Do not allow familiarity with your router to make you careless. Remember that a careless fraction of a second is sufficient to inflict severe injury.
VARIABLE SPEED CONTROL SELECTOR POWER HANDLE
24 mm WRENCH
LOCK KNOB ADJUSTMENT KNOB (DEPRESSING CENTER OF KNOB QUICK RELEASES STOP BAR) STOP BAR (WITH INCH AND METRIC SCALE)
CHIP SHIELD KNOB SCREW(S)
DEPTH STOP (TURRET)
1/4 in. (6.4 mm) BIT ADAPTER
FRONT VIEW OF ROUTER
DEPTH STOP ROTATES FOR DEPTH OF CUT CHANGES
STOP SCREW HEX NUT Fig. 1
SPEED SELECTION CHART
(Use only for the purposes listed below) I Routing grooves, shaping edges, freehand designs, etc. in wood. I Chamfering, rabbeting, dadoing, and dovetailing in wood are additional applications. I Routing edges on laminates.
Your router has a precision built electric motor. It should be connected to a power supply that is 120 volts, 60 Hz, AC only (normal household current). Do not operate this tool on direct current (DC). A substantial voltage drop will cause a loss of power and the motor will overheat. If your tool does not operate when plugged into an outlet, double-check the power supply.
HANDLE LOCK-ON BUTTON
VARIABLE SPEED CONTROL SELECTOR
PLUNGE LOCK AND RELEASE LEVER
8 mm SCREW HOLES COLLET NUT
PLUNGE LOCK AND RELEASE FEATURE
See Figure 2. Your router has a plunge lock and release lever that allows free plunging. Releasing the lever allows smooth, precise plunging action. Locking the lever secures the cutter once the desired depth of cut has been determined.
SPINDLE LOCK BUTTON KNOB SCREW
REAR VIEW OF ROUTER
Your router should never be connected to power supply when you are assembling parts, making adjustments, installing or removing cutters, or when not in use. Disconnecting your router will prevent accidental starting that could cause serious injury. DEPRESS TO LOCK SPINDLE TO TIGHTEN COLLET NUT 24 mm WRENCH TO LOOSEN COLLET NUT
SPINDLE LOCK BUTTON
See Figure 3.
CUTTER COLLET NUT
Failure to unplug your router could result in accidental starting causing serious injury.
To prevent damage to the spindle or spindle lock, always allow motor to come to a complete stop before engaging spindle lock. I Lay your router on its side with the collet facing away from you and the spindle lock button facing up. See Figure 3. I To activate spindle lock, depress spindle lock button and turn collet nut with wrench until lock mechanism interlocks. NOTE: Once spindle lock button engages, continue to depress spindle lock button.
If collet nut is not tightened securely, cutter may come out during use causing serious personal injury. I Release spindle lock button.
If you are changing a cutter immediately after use, be careful not to touch the cutter or collet with your hands or fingers. They will get burned because of the heat buildup from cutting. Always use the wrench provided. I Remove cutters by turning collet nut counterclockwise enough to allow cutter to slip easily from collet. See Figure 3. I If installing cutter for the first time, it can be installed once collet nut is loose. If changing cutters, cutter will easily slip from collet after loosening collet nut. I The 1/2 in. (13 mm) collet is machined to precision tolerances to fit cutters with 1/2 in. (13 mm) diameter shanks. I Insert shank of cutter into collet until shank bottoms out, then pull it out 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) to allow for expansion when the bit gets hot. I Tighten the collet nut securely by turning clockwise with the wrench provided. See Figure 3.
Do not use cutters with undersized shanks. Undersized shanks will not tighten properly and could be thrown from tool causing injury.
I Unplug your router.
INSTALLING/REMOVING CUTTERS WITH A 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) DIAMETER SHANK
As mentioned previously, a 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) bit adapter has also been provided with your router so that cutters with 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) shank bits can be used. See Figure 4. I If using a cutter with a 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) diameter shank, follow the instructions on the previous page to loosen the collet nut and remove any 1/2 in. (13 mm) diameter shank cutters from the collet. I Place the 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) bit adapter provided in the collet. See Figure 4. I Insert shank of cutter into collet until shank bottoms out, then pull it out 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) to allow for expansion when the bit gets hot. I Tighten the collet nut securely by turning clockwise with the wrench provided. See Figure 3. CUTTER WITH 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) SHANK DIAMETER 1/4 IN. (6.4 mm) BIT ADAPTER
1/2 IN. (13 mm) COLLET NUT
If collet nut is not tightened securely, cutter may come out during use causing serious personal injury.
PLUNGE LOCK AND RELEASE LEVER TO UNLOCK Fig. 5
TO SET DEPTH OF CUT
Failure to unplug your router could result in accidental starting causing serious injury. I Raise the cutter by releasing the plunge lock and release lever. See Figure 5. I Adjust depth control knob until cutter is inside router subbase. See Figure 6. I Place your router on a flat surface. I Lower router until tip of cutter barely touches the workpiece. See Figure 7. I Tighten the plunge lock and release lever to lock cutter at "zero" depth of cut. NOTE: If desired, adjust the depth control knob until it seats against the router housing. This will provide a positive stop at "zero" depth of cut. I Rotate depth stop to desired position, loosen lock knob, then turn adjustment knob until stop bar touches stop screw on depth stop. See Figure 8. I Pick a reference point on the scale. I Next, turn adjustment knob in the opposite direction, lifting stop bar to obtain desired depth of cut. See Figure 8. For example, if setting 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) depth of cut, the scale will move 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) from the reference point. I Tighten lock knob securely. I Position your router so that the cutter can extend below the subbase for desired depth setting. See Figure 9. Page 10
SUBBASE DEPTH CONTROL KNOB
CUTTER INSIDE SUBBASE Fig. 6
in mm 4
CUTTER AT ZERO DEPTH OF CUT Fig. 7
I Release the plunge lock and release lever. I Grasp the handles and lower router until stop bar contacts stop screw. Tighten the plunge lock and release lever to lock the cutter at the desired depth of cut. SCALE
DEPTH STOP SYSTEM
See Figure 10. The depth stop is located on the base of your router and makes it possible to make deep or heavy cuts in successive passes by use of preset depth of cut changes. Adjustable stops are provided, making depth of cut changes quick and easy. The depth stop, also known as a revolving turret, rotates on a ball detent design in the router base. A preset cutting depth is achieved by plunging router until stop bar comes in contact with the stop screw on depth stop. The adjustable stops have screws that may be adjusted approximately 1/2 in. (13 mm).
in cm 2
ADJUSTMENT KNOB STOP SCREW DEPTH STOP (TURRET) Fig. 8
TO SET DEPTH STOP SETTINGS
Failure to unplug your router could result in accidental starting causing serious injury. I Loosen lock knob and turn adjustment knob clockwise, raising stop bar to it's highest position. I Determine which adjustable stops will be used to reach desired depth of cut. I The stop screw on each stop can be adjusted to the desired height by loosening the hex nut with a 3/8 in. (10 mm) open end wrench and turning it in or out with your fingers. Secure stop screw in position by retightening hex nut with wrench. Do not overtighten hex nut. Set stops to desired heights, spreading the entire depth of cut over the number of stops used. I Rotate depth stop until the highest depth stop is aligned with the stop bar. I Raise cutter by releasing plunge lock and release lever. I Place router on a flat surface, and lower router until tip of cutter barely touches flat surface. I Tighten plunge lock and release lever to lock cutter at "zero" depth of cut. I Turn adjustment knob counterclockwise to lower stop bar against stop, then tighten lock knob securely. The highest stop now becomes "zero" depth of cut setting. I Release plunge lock and release lever and raise router. Rotate depth stop so that next highest depth stop aligns with stop bar. This locates cutter for the initial pass. I Tighten plunge lock and release lever, locking cutter at desired depth of cut. I Rotate depth stop after each pass. Make as many successive passes as needed to obtain desired depth of cut, progressively lowering router to next depth of cut setting with each pass. Page 11
CUTTER EXTENDED BELOW SUBBASE
DEPTH STOP ROTATES FOR DEPTH OF CUT CHANGES Fig. 10 ROUTER BASE
DEPTH OF CUT ADJUSTMENTS
When routing a groove or dado that is too deep to safely cut in one pass, it is best to make the cut in several passes. The proper depth of cut depends on several factors: the horsepower of the router motor, the type of cutter being used, and the type of wood being routed. A lightweight router with low horsepower is designed for making shallow cuts. A router with a high horsepower rating can safely cut much deeper. A small router bit, such as a 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) shank veining bit with a 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) cutting diameter, is designed to remove only small amounts of wood. Large bits, such as a 1/ 2 in. (13 mm) shank straight-flute bit are made to remove a large amount of wood in a single pass. Router cuts can be made deeper in soft woods, such as white pine, than in tough hardwoods like oak or maple. Based upon these considerations, choose a depth of cut that will not place excessive strain on the router motor. If you find that extra force is needed to make the pass or that the motor speed slows down considerably, turn off the router and reduce the depth of cut. Then, make the cut in two or more passes. The depth of each pass can be preset by using the three positions on the depth stop. Set the depth of cut, using the lowest stop. Then, rotate the depth stop so that the highest stop screw is under the scale. Rotate the depth stop assembly after each pass. The screws on the stops can be adjusted to the desired height by first loosening the lock nuts, then turning the screws in or out with a phillips head screwdriver. Retighten the lock nut to secure the depth stop screw in position. See Figure 10. DEPTH CONTROL KNOB TO RAISE
SPEED SELECTION CHART R.P.M. A=10,000 B=11,000 C=13,000 D=16,000 E=19,000 F=23,000
CUTTER DIA FROM TO
1/8''(3mm) 1/4''(6mm) 1/4''(6mm) 5/16''(8mm) 5/16''(8mm) 3/8''(10mm) 3/8''(10mm) 1/2''(12mm) 1/2''(12mm) 3/4''(20mm) 3/4''(20mm) 1''(25mm) 1''(25mm) 2''(50mm) ---CHAMFERING ONLY
SOFT WOOD HARD WOOD F E E D D C D B C B C B C B PLASTICS C C B A A A A ALUMINUM C B A A A A A
See Figure 13. Your router has a variable speed control selector designed to allow operator control of speed and torque limits. You can make speed selections best suited to the type of cut, the material being cut, and the size of bit being used. The variable speed control selector allows you to adjust router speed from 10,000 to 22,000 rpm. There is a six step scale labeled A through F on the variable speed control selector. To increase the speed and torque of your router, turn the variable speed control selector to a higher setting. Turn to a lower setting to decrease speed and torque. NOTE: If you do not want to use the variable speed control selector, turn to the highest possible setting F. The speed selection chart shown gives suggested speed settings based on the diameter of the cutter and the type of material being routed. See Figure 13.
TO INCREASE SPEED
TO DECREASE SPEED
PRACTICE BEFORE ACTUAL USE
We suggest that you practice with the variable speed feature of your router before installing a cutter and making cuts in wood. Check the following before connecting your router to power supply: I Make sure power supply is 120 volts, 60 Hz, AC only. I Make sure the trigger is not in the lock-on position. I Make sure there is not a cutter in the collet. I Make sure the collet does not extend below the subbase. I Choose the desired speed from the speed selection chart. See Figure 13. I Turn the variable speed control selector to the desired setting. Align desired setting on the variable speed control selector with indicator mark on the housing. I Plug your router into power supply source. I Grasp your router firmly with both hands and depress switch trigger to turn on.
ROUT END GRAINS FIRST ROUTER FEED DIRECTION
BIT ROTATION Fig. 18 GUIDE OUTSIDE ROTATION THRUST FEED GUIDE GUIDE INSIDE GUIDE ROTATION FEED THRUST Fig. 19
ROUTER FEED DIRECTION
Whenever you are routing a groove, your travel should be in a direction that places whatever guide you are using at the right-hand side. In short, when the guide is positioned as shown in the first part of Figure 19, tool travel should be left to right and counterclockwise around curves. When the guide is positioned as shown in the second part of Figure 19, tool travel should be right to left and clockwise around curves. If there is a choice, the first setup is generally the easiest to use. In either case, the sideways thrust you use is against the guide. Page 16
Place your router on workpiece, making sure the router bit does not contact workpiece. Turn router on and let motor build to its full speed. Begin your cut, gradually feeding cutter into workpiece. ROUTER
Keep a firm grip on router with both hands at all times. Failure to do so could result in loss of control leading to possible serious injury. Upon completion of cut, turn motor off and let it come to a complete stop before removing router from work surface. PILOT WORK
TOP EDGE SHAPING
Never pull router out of work and place upside down on work surface before the cutter stops. ROUTER WORK
EDGING WITH PILOT BITS
See Figure 20. Rabbets and molded edges can be cut using piloted cutters. The pilot extends below the cutter. Some pilots are solid extensions of the cutter. Others are ball bearing guides that are fastened to the end of the cutter. The pilots allow the cutters to turn while the pilot follows the edge of the workpiece. Arbor-type bits with pilots are excellent for quick, easy, edge shaping. They will follow workpiece edges that are either straight or curved. The pilot prevents the bit from making too deep a cut; and holding the pilot firmly in contact with the workpiece edge throughout prevents the cut from becoming too shallow. Whenever the workpiece thickness together with the desired depth of cut (as adjusted by router depth setting) are such that only the top part of the edge is to be shaped (leaving at least a 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) thick uncut portion at bottom), the pilot can ride against the uncut portion, which will serve to guide it. See Figure 20. However, if the workpiece is too thin or the bit set too low so that there will be no uncut edge to ride the pilot against, an extra board to act as a guide must be placed under the workpiece. This guide board must have exactly the same contour straight or curved as the workpiece edge. If it is positioned so that its edge is flush with the workpiece edge, the bit will make a full cut (in as far as the bit radius). On the other hand, if the guide is positioned as shown in Figure 20 (out from the workpiece edge), the bit will make less than a full cut which will alter the shape of the finished edge. NOTE: If desired any of the piloted bits can be used without a pilot for edge shaping with guides, as preceding. Also, the size (diameter) of the pilot that is used determines the maximum cut width that can be made with the pilot against the workpiece edge (the small pilot exposes all of the bit; the large one reduces this amount by 1/16 inch (1.6 mm).
Do not use large router bits for freehand routing. Use of large router bits when freehand routing could cause loss of control or create other hazardous conditions that could cause possible serious personal injury. When using a UL listed router table, large router bits should be used for edging only. Do not use router bits that are larger in diameter than the opening in router base for any purpose.
See Figure 23. When used freehand, your router becomes a flexible and versatile tool. This flexibility makes it possible to easily rout signs, relief sculptures, etc.
There are two basic techniques for freehand routing: I Routing letters, grooves, and patterns into wood. See Figure 23. I Routing out the background, leaving the letters or pattern raised above the surface. When freehand routing, we suggest the following: I Draw or layout the pattern on workpiece. I Choose the appropriate cutter. NOTE: A core box or Vgroove bit is often used for routing letters and engraving objects. Straight bits and ball mills are often used to make relief carvings. Veining bits are used to carve small, intricate details. I Rout the pattern in two or more passes. Make the first pass at 25% of the desired depth of cut. This will provide better control as well as being a guide for the next pass. Freehand routing is an excellent example of how to use the plunge routing feature of your router: I Choose the appropriate cutter, set desired depth of cut, carefully check setup, and secure workpiece. I Make a test cut in a scrap piece of wood from the same workpiece if possible. I Release plunge lock and release lever and raise cutter from any preset depth of cut. This also permits raising cutter inside router subbase.
I Place router on workpiece inside pattern to be routed. I Grasp handles securely and depress switch trigger to start your router. I Let motor build to full speed, then gradually plunge cutter into workpiece until stop bar comes into contact with stop screw on depth stop. I Tighten plunge lock and release lever to secure depth of cut setting. I Begin routing out the pattern, continuing until a complete pass at this depth of cut has been made. I Several cuts that require repositioning of router may be needed for a particular job. If this situation exists, release plunge lock and release lever and raise cutter inside router subbase after each cut, reposition router for next cut, gradually plunge cutter into workpiece until stop bar contacts stop screw, tighten plunge lock and release lever, and continue routing.
When servicing use only identical Ryobi replacement parts. Use of any other parts may create a hazard or cause product damage. DEPTH CONTROL KNOB
Unplug your router from its power supply before making any adjustments or performing any maintenance procedure.
DEPTH CONTROL KNOB ADJUSTMENTS
See Figure 24. The depth control knob is spring loaded against hex nut to prevent router motor from accidentally separating from router base. If depth control knob is turned too far up depth adjustment rod, the spring will cause depth control knob to pop off before hex nut. Do not remove hex nut. It should remain on depth adjustment rod at all times. This is especially important when using router upside down on a router table.
TO REPLACE DEPTH CONTROL KNOB: I Unplug your router.
1/4 in. (6.4 mm) WASHER DEPTH ADJUSTMENT ROD Fig. 24
Failure to unplug your router could result in accidental starting causing serious injury. I Turn hex nut counterclockwise until 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) of threads are remaining at the top of depth adjustment rod. I Place compression spring on top of hex nut as shown in figure 24. I Place depth control knob on top of compression spring. I Carefully compress spring by pushing down on top of depth control knob. I With spring compressed, align hex shaped recess in depth control knob with hex nut. I Thread depth control knob clockwise onto depth adjustment rod. I Turn depth control knob until desired depth of cut is reached. Do not replace depth control knob without compression spring.
Replacing depth control knob without compression spring could result in depth control knob and hex nut vibrating off depth adjustment rod during use. This situation could cause motor to separate from router base, resulting in possible serious personal injury.
To ensure safety and reliability, all repairswith the exception of the externally accessible brushesshould be performed by a Ryobi Factory or Authorized Service Center. DEPTH CONTROL KNOB COMPRESSION SPRING BRUSH ASSEMBLY
See Figure 25. Your router has externally accessible brush assemblies that should be periodically checked for wear.
PROCEED AS FOLLOWS WHEN REPLACEMENT IS REQUIRED: I Unplug your router.
Failure to unplug your router could result in accidental starting causing serious injury. I Remove depth control knob and compression spring. See DEPTH CONTROL KNOB ADJUSTMENTS for reference. I Remove brush cap with a screwdriver. Brush assembly is spring loaded and will pop out when you remove brush cap. I Remove brush assembly. I Check for wear. If worn, always replace in pairs. Do not replace one side without replacing the other. I Reassemble using new brush assemblies. Make sure curvature of brush matches curvature of motor and that brush moves freely in brush tube. I Make sure brush cap is oriented correctly (straight) and replace. I Tighten brush cap securely. Do not overtighten. I Reassemble compression spring and depth control knob.
Fig. 25 When sharpening cutters, sharpen only the inside of the cutting edge. Never grind the outside diameter. Be sure when sharpening the end of a cutter to grind the clearance angle the same as originally ground.
PROPER CARE OF COLLET
From time to time, it also becomes necessary to clean your collet and collet nut. To do so, simply remove collet nut from collet and clean the dust and chips that have collected. Then return collet nut to its original position. DO NOT tighten collet nut on collet without a cutter installed.
All of the bearings in this tool are lubricated with a sufficient amount of high grade lubricant for the life of the unit under normal operating conditions. Therefore, no further lubrication is required.
PROPER CARE OF CUTTERS
Get faster and more accurate cutting results by keeping cutters clean and sharp. Remove all accumulated pitch and gum from cutters after each use.
Avoid using solvents when cleaning plastic parts. Most plastics are susceptible to damage from various types of commercial solvents and may be damaged by their use. Use clean cloths to remove dirt, carbon dust, etc. When electric tools are used on fiberglass boats, sports cars, wallboard, spackling compounds, or plaster, it has been found that they are subject to accelerated wear and possible premature failure, as the fiberglass chips and grindings are highly abrasive to bearings, brushes, commutators, etc. Consequently, it is not recommended that this tool be used for extended work on any fiberglass material, wallboard, spackling compounds, or plaster. During any use on these materials, it is extremely important that the tool is cleaned frequently by blowing with an air jet.
Do not at any time let brake fluids, gasoline, petroleumbased products, penetrating oils, etc. come in contact with plastic parts. They contain chemicals that can damage, weaken, or destroy plastic.
Always wear safety goggles or safety glasses with side shields during power tool operation or when blowing dust. If operation is dusty, also wear a dust mask.
The following recommended accessories are current and were available at the time this manual was printed: ITEM NO. * 6072223 * 6080997 * 6240863 DESCRIPTION Template Guide (Non-adaptable) 1/2 in. (13 mm) O.D. Template Guide Adapter - Accepts all Ryobi template guides Template Guide Adapter - Accepts Porter-Cable, Rockwell, and Black & Decker template guides Straight Guide Holder Straight Guide (requires straight guide holder #6070573 above) 1/2 in. (13 mm) to 3/8 in. (10 mm) Bit Adapter 1/2 in. (13 mm) to 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) Bit Adapter Phillips Flat Head Screws for router table mounting - M8 x 25 - Set of mm Wrench * Included with your router as standard accessories
Always clamp workpiece securely before routing. A safe operator is one who thinks ahead. Always wear eye protection when routing. Make setup adjustments carefully. Then double check. Measure twice and cut once. Keep cutters clean and properly sharpened. Dont let familiarity make you careless. Study all safety rules and do the job safely. NEVER place your hands in jeopardy. Page 22
Make certain clamps cant loosen while in use. Test difficult setups on scrapDont waste lumber. Plan each operation before you begin. Provide for smoother operation by cleaning your router frequently. Shake router or blow with an air jet to remove sawdust buildup. tices can damage tool as well as workpiece.
DO NOT ABUSE POWER TOOLS. Abusive prac THINK SAFETY BY THINKING AHEAD.
EXTENSION CORD CAUTION
When using a power tool at a considerable distance from a power source, be sure to use an extension cord that has the capacity to handle the current the tool will draw. An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage, resulting in overheating and loss of power. Use the chart to determine the minimum wire size required in an extension cord. Only round jacketed cords should be used. When working with a tool outdoors, use an extension cord that is designed for outside use. This is indicated by the letters "WA" on the cord's jacket. Before using any extension cord, inspect it for loose or exposed wires and cut or worn insulation.
(on tool data plate)
Wire Size (A.W.G.)
25' 50' 100'
CAUTION: Keep the extension cord clear of the working area. Position the cord so that it will not get caught on workpiece, tools, or other obstructions while you are working with a power tool.
**Used on 12 gauge - 20 amp circuit.
Now that you have purchased your tool, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact your nearest Ryobi Factory Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit. Please refer to the Service Center insert or call 1-800-525-2579 in the United States or 1-800-265-6778 in Canada for your nearest Factory or Authorized Service Center.
The model number of your tool will be found on a plate attached to the motor housing. Please record the model number and serial number in the space provided below.
MODEL NUMBER RE601 SERIAL NUMBER
RYOBI AMERICA CORPORATION
5201 Pearman Dairy Road Anderson SC 29625-8950 Post Office Box 1207 Anderson SC 29622-1207 Phone 1-800-525-2579
RYOBI CANADA INC.
P.O. Box 910 Cambridge, Ontario N1R 6K2 Phone 1-800-265-6778
his new jig from Trend is designed to make short work of fitting door locks. By means of a set of interchangeable templates and with a router fitted with a 30mm guide bush it enables the mortise and face plate recess for most popular makes of lock to be cut quickly, easily and accurately. Photo 1 shows the components of the jig.
Ron Fox tests this new jig from Trend designed to unlock the potential of the router for the quick fitting of door locks
The main body of the jig is a substantial steel pressing which clamps to the edge of
the door and is adjustable to centre it for different thickness doors. Two powerful magnets on the body hold the templates for mortise and face plate. Sixteen different templates are provided: four for different sizes of mortise and twelve for different face plates. A look-up chart specifies the appropriate templates to use for 46 different model locks. The jig is used with a router fitted with a 30mm guide bush. A 12in router is preferred because it can be used with a special 12in shank long reach cutter to cut deep mortises.
With a medium-duty router, full depth mortises are not possible and a suitable drill will be required to deepen the router cut. However, the bulk of the work, including cutting the face plate recess, will be accomplished with the router. Many 12in routers come with a 30mm guide bush as standard. Examples include the Bosch 1700 ACE, DeWalt DW625E, Draper RV 1900, Freud FT2000E, HolzHer 2365 and Trend T9. Several other models, including the Hitachi M12 V, include a 30mm bush among their optional accessories. For 14in routers the standard Trend 30mm bush is available for the Trend T5 and the many routers that have Elu/Trend compatible bases. Most other routers can be converted to 30mm guide bush operation by fitting the Trend Unibase and 30mm guide bush. A neat touch is that if you plan to use the lock jig in conjunction with the Trend Hinge Jig, which uses a 16mm guide
bush, a guide bush collar which converts the 16mm bush to a 30mm bush is included with the lock jig so you are spared the effort of changing bushes between hinge and lock routing. Photo 1 includes the Trend T5 router fitted with a 16mm guide bush to which the 30mm conversion collar is fitted.
Using the jig
We tested the jig by fitting a bathroom door lock. Rather than buy a door we fitted the lock to a length of 50 x 150 softwood, held in the Triton Superjaws. To use the jig, the first step is to mark the position of the lock on the door. The jig is then centred on the edge of the door and clamped, and the appropriate mortise template placed in the jig. The mortise is plunge-routed by drilling a series of holes, removing the waste with an extractor, then running round the edge of the template in a
Prices List price of the lock jig is 81.08 inc. VAT, but you can find it advertised at the ex-VAT price of 69. The TR37 x 12TC cutter is 25.85 and the TR12 x 14TC is 18.80, both prices inc. VAT. The Corner Chisel is 10.52 inc. VAT. The workpiece with the jig fitted, ready to start work Trend 0800 487363
On Test The verdict.
This jig makes short work of a job that can take a long time by conventional means. It is aimed primarily at the building professional and tradesman as a means of increasing productivity, but it will also appeal to the ambitious DIYer with a number of doors to fit. The jig does exactly what it claims to do, is straightforward to use and, being built like a tank, is not likely to wear out or break. One thing I am certain of is that having used this jig I would not willingly revert to the old drill and chisel method of fitting door locks. The final flourish is produced by using the Corner Chisel to square the corners of the face-plate recess. Now if only Trend can come up with an equally simple way of cutting the striking plate recess. lock but an alternative is to add the Trend Corner Chisel to the Lock Mitre. This makes short work of the corners with one tap of a hammer and can also be used for hinge recesses. Photo 6 shows the lock set in the door. This was my first attempt with the jig and took less than ten minutes. If a 14in router were used with its shorter cutter, the mortise cut with the router would have to be deepened with a suitable drill and chisel. Photo 7 shows a 13mm auger bit in a drill deepening the mortise. Finally, the job is finished by drilling holes for the keyhole and spindle and cutting the appropriate recess for the striking plate on the door jamb. The lock jig cannot help with these operations but I think I could devise a simple jig for the striking plate recess. All these operations are clearly described in the excellent instruction manual which accompanies the jig.
The mortise being cut with a drilling action
The depth of cut being reset for the face plate mortise, using the lock and face plate as a feeler gauge
Lock mor tises are ver y deep by router standards and Trend provide three special cutters; two on half-inch shanks and one on a quar ter-inch shank. The standard 12in cutter, the TR37 x 12TC is a deep cutting 12mm diameter cutter with an overall length of 115mm and cutting length of 63mm. For cer tain routers such as the Ryobi RE601, Makita 3612C and Skil 1875U1 a shor ter alternative cutter, the TR37M x 1 2TC, is provided. The recommended 14in cutter is the TR12 x 14TC, which is 12mm diameter with an overall length of 70mm and a cut length of 19mm. This is also the recommended cutter for use with the Trend hinge jig. All these cutters have long shanks, which are marked to indicate how far into the collet they should be inser ted and centre carbide inser ts to facilitate the drilling cuts. The Trend special cutters for use with the lock jig
clockwise direction with a series of shallow passes. The work is carried out in a series of 25mm steps. This process is continued until the full depth of mortise is reached. With a 14in router the mortise is routed as deep as the cutter will allow then finished with a drill and chisel. Photo 3 shows the mortise being cut with a 12in router. Having cut the mortise, the template is changed for the
appropriate face plate template and the depth of cut set by placing the lock fixing plate together with the face plate on the turret screw and lowering the stop bar on to it. The faceplate recess is then routed in one pass made in a clockwise direction around the template. The corners of the recess will have to be squared with a chisel before fitting the
A completed mortise and face plate cut. The corners were squared with the corner chisel
The lock set in the door
A 13mm auger bit in a drill deepening the mortise cut with a 14in router with a shorter cutter
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