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Sigma BC 800


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Sigma BC 800About Sigma BC 800
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Comments to date: 9. Page 1 of 1. Average Rating:
tcrock41 7:01am on Friday, October 8th, 2010 
Hi all.....I had own a canon g10, leica dlux-3, panny lx3....& canon 400d...if compare to the dp1. It could be the revolution but Sigma failed.
Aronsslk 2:28pm on Friday, September 24th, 2010 
Capable of excellent image quality. Requires careful use and post-processing with SPP. Not a camera for the casual user.
mbo 12:06am on Monday, July 26th, 2010 
Even better than I expected The DP-1 met and exceeded my expectations as a camera. It has indeed improved my approach to photography.
uweknop 12:59am on Friday, July 23rd, 2010 
Padded and stylish, but DP2 owners take note This case fits my DP1 snugly, offering a secure and padded environment for my compact camera. Sun Worshiper The Sigma DP1 is a sun worshiper and can take the most amazing pictures if you know some basics. It loves iso 100 in bright daylight.
Ringfinger 12:19pm on Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010 
Sigma DP1 Ahhh....the DP1! This cam has had some awful things said about it. I agree with many but....the images are the best.
Crazy Squirrel 6:13am on Sunday, May 16th, 2010 
sigma dp1 this is a truly revolutionary camera with the largest sensor in any compact camera and using the foveon chip that sees colour in real time. Sigma DP-1 The Sigma DP-1 is a real no frills camera.
NDC˛ˇL 11:38am on Tuesday, March 30th, 2010 
The Sigma DP1 is a highly specialized tool for the artist/photographer and has a very sharp 28mm (35mm equiv.)non-interchangeable wide angle lens.
nachteule 7:43pm on Monday, March 29th, 2010 
Totally Disappointed I ordered Sigma Dp1 because I did read so many good reviews but at the same time I bought it.
Hapo 8:45am on Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 
Great,great quality. No compromise. Incredible color and tone extension and dynamic range. The B&N and color is similar film. Not perfect camera.

Comments posted on are solely the views and opinions of the people posting them and do not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of us.




Mounting a SIGMA SPORT BC800 Trip Computer on a Honda ST1100
This description was written specifically for a HONDA ST1100 ABS however it has application to just about any motorcycle you just need to use your imagination about the mounting of the computer unit. The speedo fitted to any bike is a compromise based on the tyre fitted by the bike maker as new. As soon as the tyre starts to wear or if you replace it with anything else the speedo calibration becomes suspect. Fitting the bicycle computer allows you to correct for this error plus it provides a lot more functionality. The SIGMA unit has been used by many motorcyclists with a lot of success.
All versions of the SIGMA SPORT BC800 offer the following features: Speedo to 300kpm/180mph Trip distance accurate to 10m or 1/100 mile Clock Odometer, logs up to 99,999 miles or Km Riding Time auto start/stop stop watch tracks actual riding time Max stores maximum speed AVS Average speed (auto calculated by trip distance divided by Riding Time) Comparison constant indication of current actual speed to average speed
12 month warranty. In addition to the above the 2000 model allows 2 different calibrations to be stored, though as they both affect all other indicators I think this is somewhat pointless. One other point to consider is that the newer model uses larger digits for the speedo reading , so once you exceed 100 the comparison to average speed is not shown till you reduce your speed to under 100. The earlier model does not suffer from this minor problem It must be pointed out that the operating environment on a motor cycle is far LESS harsh than experienced on a bicycle, so robustness of the unit is not in question. OK so what do you need? Head off to your local bicycle store and purchase a SIGMA SPORT BC800 bicycle computer no you do not want any other make, no you do not want any other model. You also need a small amount of high strength double sided tape an auto accessory store or your local panel beater can help here. About a dozen thin cable ties and some kneadable (thick) epoxy. While you are at it try to locate a small metal angle bracket about 1 inch by 1 inch. You may also need a length of microphone cable more on this later. These computers all work the same way. The sensor is always some form of magnetic switch and each time that the switch closes (by a passing magnet) it activates a pulse inside the computer. The sensor mounts on the front fork and the magnet mounts on the wheel. Now the itty bitty magnet that comes with the computer is just that itty bitty gutless, ok for a bicycle where speeds are low and its easy to adjust the space between the sensor and the magnet but rather hopeless on a motor bike. I attacked a cheap set of compact headphones (not the in ear bud type) and salvaged the voice coil magnets. These things are about 1cm in diam and just a few mm thick and boy oh boy are they strong magnets. OK so now you have a suitable magnet. (in fact you will have 2 if you trashed both sides of the headphones). About that microphone cable. It may be that the cable between the sensor unit and the computer mount as supplied is not long enough for your installation and this was the case for me. What I did was cut the original cable about 12 inches away from both the sensor and the computer mount then soldered in a length of microphone cable. I used very thin heat shrink tube to insulate each conductor (microphone cable is a form of very very flexible coaxial cable i.e. it is two conductor) then put a slightly larger diam heat shrink over the lot. I chose to use microphone cable because it is very flexible and also has a strong outer covering. Preparing for the install. The sensor that comes with the unit is in 2 parts a holder that is meant to attach to the bicycle fork and the sensor that locks into the holder. Separate the two and throw that holder gizmo into the rubbish bin right now. Grab a pair of side cutters then remove from the back of the sensor those dinky mounting lugs. Next get a small file we are about to cut some location groves into the face of the sensor to locate thin cable ties ( oh, you are going to need a few thin cable ties if at any time u think that they are not long enough , remember- they can be joined together). In case you are not too sure about this look at the original out of the box unit in your hand and compare it to the modified sensor in the attached pics.

Shows the groves I filed into the sensor to locate the cable ties
Shows the rear of the sensor with the mounting lugs removed. Yes I have also filed it smooth. Once you have removed the lugs from the sensor and cut the location groves, put the double sided tape on the back of it and trim the tape to size. Do not remove the outer protective tape layer just yet! It is now time to turn your attention to the other end of the cable the computer mount. When you sit on your ST I want you to look at the way the fairing sweeps around the instruments and back toward you. On the grey plastic, just below the screen on the right hand side you will see 2 screws. Focus on the one closest to you, thats the one that will be used to mount the computer-mounting bracket. A bit later on I refer to this screw as the mounting screw. Here is a pic showing the computer mounted on my ST.
This is my feeble attempt at drawing what I did to the computer mount. If you look at a side on view of the computer mount you will see that the back of it is concave, designed to fit around a bicycle handlebar. First grab the double sided tape already on the concave face of the computer mount and remove it, make sure that the resulting surface is clean. Now take your 1 inch by 1 inch bracket. Oh, be sure to put a whole in one end of the bracket, a hole just big enough for the mounting screw to pass
through. Just hold the angle bracket into the back of the computer mount then hold all of that up against the mounting screw OK I hope you can now visualise just how it will all look when finished. Have a peek at this snap taken with the screen removed.
So now it is time to mix up enough of that thick epoxy ( I used the kneadable stuff, sometimes called KNEAD-IT Polymer Repair) for those in Australia you can also use Selleys PlastiBond. Once mixed you apply it to the concave side of the computer mount, then push the angle bracket into it and apply a bit more over the top of the bracket to make sure it all stays put. Be sure that the leg of the bracket with the hole in it is not the one in the epoxy. The stuff I used took about 30 minutes to set though you only have about 2 minutes to work from when you start mixing. Once the epoxy is set you can paint it black if you want else just leave it the ugly epoxy color.

After this you can mount the computer holder to the inner of the right hand fairing using the mounting screw. You now need to feed the cable (connecting the computer mount to the sensor) down through the fairing so that you can mount the sensor on the front side of the LEFT HAND fork (see photo). You may choose to remove some fairing parts in order to do this. I needed to remove the screen and the dress panel (thats the one you can get to once you have removed the screen).
Do not stick the sensor down just yet!
Now for the magnet, it mounts close to the inside edge of the left hand disk (see the photo). I applied a small daub of epoxy to the back of the magnet just in case. Hey, before you do the same put the magnet on the disk and then spin the front wheel to ensure that the magnet does not hit on the fork if it does hit the fork you need to seek out a thinner magnet ( Uh O there goes another set of headphones in fact the headphones I used were a souvenir from a airline in-flight). Once you have the magnet in place you can remove the cover tape from the double sided stuff you put on the back of the sensor then put that sensor into position. It does not need to be at 90 degrees to the magnet on my install its about 45 degrees and all works fine be sure to check that when you spin the wheel that the magnet does not hit the sensor.
You can see the magnet positioned in between the 2 disk socket screws. Note how the white alignment mark on the sensor lines up with the centre of the magnet this is important for correct operation of the sensor.
All done? Well wrap a couple of cable ties around the sensor/fork leg as insurance against the mounting tape failing. Why put the sensor on the front of the leg you ask. If it is on the rear and god forbid it comes loose it will jamb between the fork leg and the disk on the front at worst it will just flap about. Use those spare cable ties to tidy everything up , ensuring that the sensor cable cannot foul the wheel etc. OK time for a glass of wine? Not just yet! You now need to calibrate the computer detailed instructions are included with the computer so just follow them. Now have the wine! And do not even think of removing your speedo cable in order to keep your bike seemingly ever young! Here is another crappy drawing


The Sigma BC700/800 - How To Install And Why?

By: Mike DiSabatino

Did you ever want the bragging rights (proof) of your high-speed escapades? How about knowing your actual speed after making gearing changes? Better yet, what about just the accuracy of your stock speedo? What about an exact traveling time. you know without all those traffic lights, gas stops. just pure moving time? Well, here is your answer! The Sigma BC700 or newer BC800 Cycle Computer. Actually this is made for a bicycle, but the BC700 is very capable of displaying ACCURATE speeds in excess of 170mph. This is very important. The Sigma BC700 is the only model known to accurately measure high speed! The BC800 is accurate to 167mph. The good news. this little charm costs less than $30.oo and is everything from required to a trick toy. The BC700 / BC800 is comprised of 3 parts. The computer that is more like a digital watch, the sensor which picks up the rotational information of the wheel, and the magnet which trips the sensor. Installation is easy and should take no more than 1 hour including planning time. Understanding how the computer works will also help in the install. The sensor is mounted on a stationary part of the bike like the fork leg. The magnet is mounted to a part that rotates as the wheel spins, but without being in the way of other parts like the brake caliper, brakes, or. The computer will detect the magnet passing the sensor and register one revolution of the wheel. This revolution will start the E.T. on the computer automatically as well as start the calculation of speed and its variations. If the wheel stops, the sensor will not be detect the magnet passing, and all functions (except the clock) will end. If you have your BC700/800, try this. Insert the computer into the mount, have the computer set to E.T. Now pass the magnet by the sensor with you hand. You will notice the stopwatch has started. If you do not pass the magnet again, the stopwatch will stop. Another example is to pass the magnet back and forth over the sensor (close distance) rapidly, and note the current speed display will read out. Keep this in mind when install the unit and you may find a more innovative install that is not discussed here. Just remember to share the knowledge!! And e-mail us your great ideas. Here we go. Installation.
Required (varies with application):
Bike to mount on BC700 / BC800 Metal type epoxy (2 part clay like) Clear liquid type epoxy (2 part usually found in syringe dispenser) Cable ties Length of string (about 4 feet) Tape measure (or ruler) Some mechanical ability. Never work of your own bike without this one!
First plan on where you want the computer (display) to be placed. On the bars is good, or maybe near the instruments. Constant visibility is good but not required since all information is stored for later viewing. If you have made gearing changes to your bike, then placement for easy visibility may be more important so you can see the constant speed display. Next hold the mount (for the computer) where you want it to be installed and route the wire (pickup sensor attached from factory) to the wheel area. The recommended spot is on the fork leg, which is on the same side as the side stand. This makes the system more invisible to by-passers when the bike is parked. At this point, most will find they need to extend the wires. If you find you are in need of extending the wires. just cut, splice, solder, and seal (electrical tape, heat shrink, or liquid seal) a length of wire in place. ** Note an alternative is to order a rear wheel mount (referring to bicycles) kit with your BC700. This kit is nothing more than an additional mount with extended wire that is more than adequate for all install applications, and its cost is only $10.oo. For the tool-impaired or lazy installers this extension kit may be the way to go. Note: It is not recommended to place the pick-up system on the rear wheel. This is due to wheel spin. In testing, it was conclusive that the rear unit displayed speeds higher by 2%-5%! OK, now that you have a place for the computer and have the mount wired down the fork tube, you need to see were to install the magnet and pickup sensor. Tolerance is important. Instructions that come with the BC700 call for a maximum distance of 5mm between the magnet and sensor. Keep these suggestions in mind. The sensor and magnet should be kept in the same direction at time of passing each other. You cannot mount the sensor vertical and the magnet horizontal to each other. Here are some suggestions: * the sensor wire tied to the speedo cable near the wheel hub and the magnet on the disk floater (note! this is very simple and a ten minute installation if the speedo cable applies to your bike!), * the sensor to the fork leg and magnet on the disk floater (shown below), * the sensor on a bracket secured (need to make bracket) to the fork leg and magnet on disk floater, * sensor on back side of brake caliper and magnet on spoke of wheel (patience required, working in close quarters!) In our illustration below we located a spot for the magnet on the disk floater. In some applications the magnet casing could be or should be removed. In our example below, we just laid the magnet in place, put a little zip tie to hold, and finished it with some clear 2 part epoxy. This sucker ain't goin' nowhere! Then we chose to build up the sensor with clay-like 2-part epoxy. This epoxy give you about 15 minutes to work with and mold, and will be completely cured in 1 hour. We removed the sensor mount back used on bicycles and cut off the little tabs in order to maintain proper clearance tolerances. Then 'eye-balled' the positioning of the sensor. Mix up a bit of metal epoxy, and start molding.

Started with a ball, rolled into a 'tube', placed on fork leg, placed sensor on epoxy, pushed sensor into epoxy, and continued to mold. Once you are in the approximate distance, start your rolling check. This will insure that the tolerance is good and that the metal epoxy is not in the way of moving objects. We used a builders razor to trim the epoxy at times in order to make a clean cut. When done, we zip tied the sensor as a precautionary move. Since our install, we feel that the epoxy itself, if applied correctly, should do the trick. This application may require a little tweaking to remove the wheel. The sensor could be in the way of the rotor when dropping the wheel. This is remedied by rotating the fork tube ever so slightly or by removing the caliper and rotating the fork tube more. If this is a concern for you because you swap rims/tires often, you may want to use a bracket mount. Zip tie you wire going up the fork leg tight near the rotor. You don't want the wire rubbing on the rotor, 'cause you won't have much wire after a few minutes! As you secure the wiring, remember to leave enough play between the forks and the mount for full suspension travel (about 2inches)! If you wheelie, this is really important! Secure the mount to your desired location with the double-sided tape provided and/or other mounting devices, and your ready for programming. Finally program the computer per the instructions, and your ready to go. In order to have the speed accurate, you must know the circumference of your front wheel (TIRE). This is where you use the string. Tape the string to the front tire and roll the bike so that the string wraps around the tire. Be sure that the string is not inside the tread, cause this will give a smaller reading. Mark the string where the 2 ends meet. Take the string and tape off, and measure the length of the string. This needs to be entered into the computer as millimeters (mm) not inches (in). To convert inches to millimeters, just divide inches by 0.03937. That's it. If your speed-reading is about 5mph lower on the BC700. you probably did everything right! It seems that most who install the BC700 find the stock speedo to be +5mph. This has also been confirm be radar. Good luck and enjoy! The Sigma Pick up mounted on the left lower fork leg. Note metal epoxy build-up under pick-up sensor which fills gap to proper clearance and secures the sensor to fork leg. Black 'zip' tie is supplemental to provide 'warm-fuzzy' that your sensor will be there after some hard-core wheelies. Check clearance while molding epoxy under sensor by wheeling bike back and forth 12". This will ensure that the epoxy is clear of all moving parts! (Such as the disk mounting bolts on the hub) The MAGNET is mounted to the disk 'floater' with clear epoxy, and again 'zip' tied for extra security. Upper cable tie is to secure the wiring to avoid contact with the rotor. This was later relocated out of site under the fork protector.

The Sigma mounted on the left bar
The BC700 has triple digit speed display. Dual display show: (1) Constant current speed display (2) Push a button to find: Maximum Speed Average Speed Trip Distance Total Distance Stop Watch Clock Auto starts/stops by sensing wheel movement



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