TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION

There are three basic types of transducers to consider: High Speed, Puck Style, and the Ice-Ducer System.

HIGH SPEED TRANSDUCERS

High Speed transducers are designed to be mounted on the transom of a boat. The wedged shape will cut the water and give a clear depth reading at any boat speed. Locate a spot similar to the one in figure E. Keep in mind that you need clear water flow across the face of the transducer to insure a clear reading at all speeds. Stay away from rivets, ribs, or strakes that would be just in front of the transducer. They will disturb the water and scramble the reading. Attach the mounting bracket to the transducer and hold it up to the boat where you are Figure E planning to mount it (see figure E). Mark the holes on the transom, or mounting plate, so that when the bottom of the transducer is flush with the bottom of the boat the holes are located at the bottom of the bracket slots. This gives you room to "fine tune" the position of the transducer and optimize your reading after you've put the back boat in the water. Drill out the holes and tighten the bracket down securely. Be sure to seal any holes drilled into the transom with silicone to prevent water from leaking into the boat. Run the transducer cord up to the unit taking the same care as you did when you ran the power cord. Plug the transducer connector into the back of the unit and screw the retaining ring down tight.

PUCK STYLE TRANSDUCERS

There are three ways in which a Puck Style transducer can be mounted. It can be mounted In-Hull, on an electric trolling motor, or portable (with a suction cup or on an arm of some type).

IN-HULL MOUNTING

This method, gluing the transducer to the hull, gets the same results as if you were using the High Speed transducer only there are no holes to drill in the boat and there is no transducer on the transom to get damaged by impact. Finding the best location for the transducer before mounting is critical. Choose a flat smooth spot near the center of the bilge and near the back of the boat. It is a good idea to make a "test run" before you permanently install the transducer to make sure that you can indeed get a reading through your hull, and when the boat is on plane. Put about a half inch of water in the bilge and hold the transducer in the intended location. Move the transducer around until you get the best reading. Mark the spot. To install the transducer clean the spot of mud and oil. Using an epoxy or silicone glue make a puddle about the same diameter as the transducer on the hull. Place the transducer in the glue. Press it down firmly, gently twisting it back and forth, making sure that there are no air bubbles in the glue between the transducer and the hull. Let the glue dry completely before turning the unit on. Run the transducer cord up to the unit taking the same care as you did when you ran the power cord. Plug the transducer connector into the back of the unit and screw the retaining ring down tight.

TROLLING MOTOR MOUNTING

To attach a Puck Style transducer to a trolling motor, use a hose clamp or a large cable tie. Notice the slots in the transducer for this purpose. Locate the transducer on the bottom of the lower unit as in figure G. Run the cable up the shaft using cable ties to hold Figure G it in position. Make sure that the movement of the trolling motor will not damage the cable. Plug the transducer connector into the back of the unit and screw the retaining ring down tight.

PORTABLE MOUNTING

Optional suction cup brackets can be used to temporarily attach a transducer to the transom or side of the boat. The cups should be placed in a location where it will not be torn off when the boat goes high speed. It is a good idea to tie on a safety rope in case the cup does let go. There are three suction cup brackets available for the FL-8SLT. The BK0023 and BK0027 are made to attach the Puck style transducers to a boat for use at slow speeds. The BK0044 suction cup brackets is made to attach the high speed transducers to a boat for high speed uses. See page 26 for details. An arm can also be used to hold the transducer. Simply attach the transducer to the end of the arm using cable ties or tape. If the arm is constructed of metal tubing insulate the transducer from the arm by wrapping electrical tape around the arm. This prevents "ringing" which can be displayed as noise near the surface. Run the transducer cord up to the unit using cable ties to hold the cord in place. Plug the transducer connector into the back of the unit and screw the retaining ring down tight.

THE ICE-DUCER SYSTEM*

The Ice-Ducer system provides a quick and easy way to set up the transducer for ice fishing. All of the adjustments needed to find the true perpendicular point are done automatically. To use the Ice-Ducer, simply adjust the transducer to the desired depth and drop the assembly in the ice hole. There are three main components to the Ice-Ducer system. They include the transducer, float, and the stop. The transducer comes assembled with the connector already installed. The stop is put on by passing the transducer cord through the slit in the side of the stop. Make sure that the tapered or rounded end is facing down, toward the transducer. The float is installed between the stop and the transducer by, again, passing the transducer cord through the slit in the side. Make sure the countersunk hole is facing up towards the top. To use the Ice-Ducer, adjust the stop to allow the transducer to float at the desired depth. A six inch minimum is recommended in order to make sure that the transducer will indeed be pointing straight down. The most it should be down is to the bottom of the ice hole. If the transducer is below the bottom of the ice it can cause tangling problems when bringing in fish. If you run into problems when using the Ice-Ducer and you can't see your bait try this, rub the bottom of the transducer with water to eliminate any residue or air film. This insures good contact between the transducer and the water. Check the length of cord between the float and the transducer to make sure there are no kinks in the cord that will cause the transducer to shoot off to the side *Patent no. 5,546,362

OPERATION

Figure I shows the three main controls of the FL-8SLT. They include Power and Range control, Gain, and Interference Rejection.

POWER AND RANGE CONTROL

The knob located at the bottom of the control panel turns the unit on and selects which range is to be used. The center position is the Off position. There are six depth ranges to choose from. S1 - 0-20' S2 - 0-40' S4 - 0-80' D1 - 0-30' D2 - 0-60' D4 - 0-120' (D8 - 0-240' Deep Model) Figure I
To activate the unit and select the appropriate range turn the knob to the left or right. To read the correct depth on the display you must correlate your range setting with the proper scale on the display. Notice that the shallow ranges are marked in white and the deep ranges are marked in yellow. For a range selection of S1 you would read the white numbers on the display. For a range selection of S2 you would read the white numbers times two, and times four for S4. The same is the case for the D ranges, only you would read the yellow numbers on the display. For example, figure J shows the leading edge of the bottom at nine feet on the white scale. With a range setting of S1 you would interpret this as nine feet deep. With a range setting of S2 you would interpret this as 18 feet deep. With a range setting of D1 you would look at the yellow numbers and read the depth as slightly over 13 feet deep. D2 would read 26 feet. A setting of D4 would read the depth at 52 feet (13 x 4).

GAIN CONTROL

The knob located at the top of the control panel is the gain control. This controls the amount of signal that you see on the display. A gain setting of zero will display a minimum amount of signal while a gain setting of ten will show the maximum amount. Different conditions will require different gain settings. Deeper water will require higher gain than shallow water. A weedy bottom will demand a lower gain setting than a clean bottom. Keep the gain level low. Too much gain can "wash out" the targets that you want to see. Generally, it is a good idea to set the gain at an appropriate level and leave it there. Only change the gain level if the water depth or conditions change.

INTERFERENCE REJECTION*

The yellow button in the middle of the panel controls the Interference Rejection feature. The red LED to the upper left of the I.R. button tells you if the rejection circuitry is on. The I.R. feature has eight steps of rejection to let you eliminate unwanted interference from another nearby depth finder. When you turn on the FL-8SLT on, the I.R. automatically comes on to the first step. If necessary, press the I.R. button repeatedly until the interference is eliminated. You can press the button seven times before you get back to the first step again. Turning the unit off and then on again will also reset the I.R. back to the first step. To turn the I.R. feature off press the Gain control knob. The red LED will also go off. TIP - If running two SLTs, it is best to turn the I.R. off on one unit and then eliminate the interference on the other unit. * Patent #5,515,339

TYPICAL INDICATIONS

The three-color display on the FL-8SLT can give you a lot of information if you know how to read it. A color represents the strength of a signal. A red color indicates a strong signal, an orange color indicated a medium strength signal, and green represents a weak signal. The colors will combine to indicate objects, such as bottom echoes, structure, fish, and plankton. The way in which they combine, and the speed in which they do so, tells you what is what. The following examples illustrate some of the different conditions that you may encounter and what the display on the FL-8SLT may look like.

HARD BOTTOM

Under these conditions the bottom will be almost all red, although you will always see some orange and green at the trailing edge, as in figure J. A sharp red leading edge tells you that the bottom is very clean. If you were to move from a hard bottom to a softer -bottom you would see a change in color to more orange and green. Try not to change the Gain setting as you move around.

WEEDY BOTTOM

In weedy conditions the bottom can be harder to determine. Figure K gives you an idea of what it may look like. To find the bottom in weeds it is important to keep the gain control low. If the gain is too high the bottom and the weeds will "run together" making it difficult to determine the actual depth. Some weed beds can be so dense that they will display as solid red, even at medium gain. If you fish in these conditions often you may want to add an S-Cable to your system (see page 27).

Fig. J

2ND ECHO

ZERO MARK

SURFACE CLUTTER

BAIT FISH OR PLANKTON

TRAILING EDGE BOTTOM

LEADING EDGE

Fig. K
ZERO MARK SURFACE CLUTTER

TRAILING EDGE

WEEDS LEADING EDGE BOTTOM

POSSIBLE FISH

SEEING FISH
The FL-8SLT sees a fish as a target, much like the bottom. It has a leading edge, a width, and color content. Refer, again, to figure J. If the range setting is S x2 then the fish is just over two feet above the bottom. It is a fairly wide target and is made up of all three colors. This should be recognized as a significant fish, something you may want to catch. The targets that appear just above this fish are smaller and there is no red. Here is where target identification gets a bit trickier. Since we do not know the position of the targets in the cone of sound we cannot readily identify them. For example, the green target at ten feet could be a small piece of floating debris or a single small baitfish in the center of the cone or it could be a large game fish at the very edge of the cone. In the weeds spotting fish is more difficult. Figure K shows a bottom at twelve feet (S1). The weeds extend from the bottom up to about eight feet. Notice the red target at ten feet is marked "possible fish". We cannot say that it is a definite fish because the weeds around it are dense enough to give a red signal themselves. Again, keep the gain as low as you can for reading in the weeds. If you can't turn the gain down far enough you may want to get an S-Cable to cut down the power of your unit.

CLUTTER VS. NOISE

Clutter is created by very small targets in the water. It is usually displayed as thin green or orange lines. Clutter can include bait fish, plankton, floating debris, or air bubbles. Although clutter is not fish, it can be useful in finding fish. Noise is, usually, electrical noise, which is in the engine ignition, radios, or trolling motors. It can be displayed as red, orange, or green lights that flash as the interfering equipment is operated. The Interference Reject circuit of the FL-8SLT will block out most noise, but sometimes, extra measures are required to eliminate it. Please contact our service department (page 28) if you have interference that you cannot get rid of.

HIGH SPEED OPERATION

The FL-8SLT can accurately read depths at almost any boat speed. Here high speed is defined as any speed at or above the planning speed of the boat. Once the boat starts to plane out, turbulence will develop behind the transom. If you have the wrong type of transducer, or it is poorly mounted, the unit will lose the bottom at a certain boat speed. This is due to all of the air bubbles in the turbulent water.

ICE FISHING

Ice fishing brings out the best in the FL-8SLT. The stable platform of ice lets you concentrate on your bait and the fish around it. The bottom becomes less important because it never changes. The only movement on the display is of your bait and fish. Unlike open water use, the direction in which the transducer is pointed is very critical. You want your bait to be located in the dead center of the cone sound. This way you can see very small baits at low gain settings and also see fish come in from all sides. If you are not using the IceDucer system, the transducer must be attached to an adjustable arm so that it can be manually pointed directly at the bait. Sometimes it helps to attach a bubble level to the transducer so that you know when it's straight. After your system is properly set up, adjust the gain until you see your bait as a green target. You may need to readjust the gain control to keep the bait green. This is due to the changing condition and position of your bait. If you are using a swimming bait or a lure that darts to the side as it's jigged, you will see the color change as the bait moves. Sometimes it may even disappear if the bait goes out of the cone of sound. Fish will appear at the edge of the cone as a green target. If the fish moves closer to the bait it will change from green to orange. If it moves up, right next to the bait, it will change to red. If the fish leaves and you can no longer see your bait, chances are, you've been robbed.

MAINTENANCE

PERMANENT MOUNT
With permanent mount applications, the power cord is left connected to the source, the transducer is not easily removed, and the gimbal bracket is screwed to the seat, deck, or dash. Under these conditions maintenance is very simple because nothing changes once the unit is installed. Because of this problems can sneak up on you if you're not careful. The unit should be removed from the bracket whenever the boat is parked to guard against theft. Don't store it in a place that may fill with water. Power connections need constant checking. Corrosion can develop and cause intermittent or loss of operation. Connections made to battery posts need extra attention because of the battery acid. The transducer should be checked for scratches and cracks which can reduce the units sensitivity. Cuts or breaks in the cord should be repaired as soon as possible so corrosion doesn't attack the wire. Periodically clean the face of the transducer with a mild detergent. An oily film can develop which will cause weak readings.

PORTABLE MAINTENANCE

How Long Will My Battery Last On The FL-8SLT?
Run Time - The FL-8SLT draws about 200 mA, less than a quarter of an amp of current The unit will run good until the battery voltage drops to about 10 volts. Beyond that you will notice lower sensitivity, as well as, a much dimmer display. The Vexilar Model V120, a 7.2 amp/hr battery, will run the FL-8SLT for about 20 hours straight. Battery Life - This applies only to rechargeable batteries. The largest influence on battery life is your charging habits. To get the most out of your battery follow these simple tips; Charge the battery as soon as possible after each use or, if it's cold, as soon as it reaches room temperature. Do not overcharge or under charge the battery. Use a battery charger that has an automatic shut-off feature. A battery should be stored, fully charged, in a cool place. Charge it once a month or so when in storage to make sure it's full.
How Far Down The Ice Hole Does The Ice-Ducer Have To Be?
You need water contact only to get a depth reading. The bottom or the face of the transducer, only, has to make contact with the water in order to get a good transfer of sound waves into the water There are times (usually deep ice - 36" or more) when the transducer needs to be placed at the bottom of the ice. The zero indication of the flasher will be unusually wide, 8 to 10 feet wide. This can be caused by the transmitted signal ringing back and forth through the depth of the hole. By extending the transducer to the bottom of the hole this ringing can be eliminated. Now the lake depth must be mentally corrected for the new position of the transducer.
Will The FL-8SLT Read Through The Ice?
YES! It will easily read through ice, provided the ice is CLEAR ICE and not MILKY ICE. Remember, the transducer must have GOOD CONTACT with the surface of the clear ice. A bottom indication should appear on the sounders dial at an appropriate depth. The ice surface must be wet; water works well.
Why Do I Get Interference?
Electrical interference can be caused by other electrical equipment that put unwanted signals on the power line. It usually can be reduced or eliminated by simple fixes such as resistor spark plugs and wires on the engine or better grounding on the electrical system. Sometimes, however, there can be equipment problems that need shop service. Another kind of interference comes from another depth finder operating on the same frequency nearby. The FL-8SLTs interference rejection circuitry is designed to knock out most or all of this, but sometimes severe conditions can still cause interference. The two factors that determine if this happens are: a) the depth of the water and, b) how far apart the two

sounders are placed. If this interference is happening, each of the sounders will have a non-stop rotating light moving around the dial. One moving light rotates around the dial clockwise and on the other sounder the light will rotate in the counter clockwise direction. To eliminate this problem you can either move the sounders farther apart or shut one off.
Which Side of the Transducer Should Be Aimed Toward The Lake Bottom?
Most of today's transducers have two sides to them. Side A is the side that the cable enters the transducer and usually has holes, slots, or some method to attach a bracket to. Side B is usually flat but may have different shapes, such as round, square, or arrow shaped. The Side B or the Flat side should be aimed toward the lake bottom.
What Does the Zero Light Mean?
The zero light is actually the start point of the units transmission of sound waves. On the display it indicates the zero foot point. This signal has very little use. Sometimes a portable transducer arm can cause "ringing" which will display as a very wide zero. The width of the zero indication should never be more than 5 feet wide. Most problems occur when the arm, which the transducer is attached to, is metal. Plastic or wood transducer arms cause little problems. To test your portable box system, in air, turn the FL-8SLT on, range 1, and with the gain control turned to maximum position, note the width of the zero indication. If the zero indication is wider than 5 feet, squeeze the transducer and metal arm together with your hand. While squeezing, if the zero gets smaller you need to work on the transducer attachment. To solve the problem, especially with a metal transducer arm, remove the transducer from the metal arm. Then tape three layers of black electrical tape around the arm in the flat section of the arm, then lay the transducer against the tape and continue to tape it onto the flat section on the metal arm. The tape creates an insulation layer between
the metal arm and the plastic housing of the transducer. This insulation layer eliminates any transmission vibrations caused when the unit transmits the signal to the water.
What Does the Bottom Light Mean?
Besides depth the bottom light can give you a lot of information. The width and color content of the bottom signal can tell you what type of bottom it is. Ice fisherman can look for movement of color in the bottom signal. If you see a red line move through the orange or green part of the bottom signal, it's probably a fish close to the bottom and away from the center point. Open water fisherman usually can't see this because the boat moves too much. You can, however, see changes in the bottom type as you move along. The more red in the signal, the harder the bottom. The more green and orange in the softer the bottom
Why is the Bottom Indication so Wide?
While fishing in a depth of 30 feet, a normal width of a bottom indication is from 5 to 12 feet wide. The width of the bottom is actually the summation of the radius of coverage on the bottom and is controlled by the gain control. The bottom width and color adjust automatically. The leading edge of the bottom light is the actual depth. The color beyond is the area, within the cone of sound, which is around the center point of the circle you are covering on the bottom.

TRANSDUCER BEAM ANGLES VERSES DIAMETER OF COVERAGE AND PERFORMANCE
Beam angle has a large effect on the performance of your depth finder. There is more to it 10 1.6 3.4 than simply area of coverage. The correct beam 20 3.2 6.7 angle to use depends entirely on what you are try30 4.7 10.0 ing to do with your sonar. If you are fishing for 40 6.3 13.4 suspended fish then you probably would be very 50 7.9 16.7 pleased with the performance of the 19. However, 60 9.4 20.8 if you were going after fish that are hanging right 70 11.0 23.4 on the bottom, along a steep drop-off, you would 80 12.6 26.8 have better results with the 9. Here's why; Dead Zone is an area 90 14.2 30.15.7 33.5 within the transducers cone 120 18.9 40.2 of sound that is blind to you. 150 23.6 50.2 The wider the beam angle the 300 47.2 100.4 greater the possible dead zone. The sonar will mark bottom as the nearest distance it sees. If you are fishing over a slope, it may see the high side of the slope, at the edge of the cone, and mark that as bottom. The fish that are hanging on the bottom in the center of the cone will be invisible to you because they are actually within the bottom signal on your depth finder. A narrower beam angle will reduce this effect. Your depth finder puts out a constant amount of power. It does not matter where you have the gain level set. Gain simply controls how much you amplify the signal that is bounced off of the bottom. Therefore, a narrow beam transducer will appear to be much more powerful than a wide beam transducer. This is because you are putting that same amount of power into a smaller area. This can be an advantage if you are fishing in deep water or a detriment if you are fishing shallow. A narrow beam transducer can be overpowering in shallow water. The use of an S-Cable will solve this problem, though. Depth 9 19

TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART

Symptom Unit is turned on, but no display and motor is not running. Unit is turned on and the motor is running, but there is no display. Unit runs well for a short time, then lights fade out or unit quits. Unit runs and shows display light, but does not read depth. Unit works, but needs high gain to see bottom or targets. Unit works, but has too many lines on the display. Can't tell what is what. Unit works well when sitting still or at when slow trolling, but loses reading at higher speeds. Unit shows noise when engine or electric motor is turned on. I.R. does not work. Cant eliminate interference from other depth finder. Possible Cause Check for bad connections, proper hook up polarity, and make sure you have a good, fully charged, battery. Battery voltage too low. The unit will show no display if the voltage is below 10 volts. Check while unit is running. Bad battery or connection. Voltage may be good when checked, but will fall as as unit runs. Transducer is not plugged in, not in contact with the water. Transducer is not aimed correctly or needs to be cleaned. 19 transducers will have trouble seeing small targets deep. Improper transducer adjustment. Also, gain may be set too high or ,if gain is set to minimum, you may need an S-Cable (see page 27). Improper transducer type, installation, or adjustment causing a loss of clear water flow across the transducer when the boat reaches a certain speed. Defective engine or electric motor. Also can be improper grounding or missing ground in electrical system. Gain may be set too high or the other unit has a problem.

Accessories for the FL-8 SLT

PORTA CASE

The unique P-160 Porta Case holds your FL-8, FL8SLT or other manufacturer's sonar or GPS. It has space for your transducer, a rechargeable battery, and the Vexilar Battery Status Indicator. Just set it down on the ice or boat seat, position the transducer and turn on your flasher. The round base is just the right size to fit down inside a standard 5 gallon bucket.

ECONOMY CARRY CASE

The new P-100 carrying case is simple, sturdy, and inexpensive. It is an easy way to mount the Vexilar FL-8 and many other depth finder and GPS. Made of heavy ABS plastic, this case can take abuse at any time of year.
SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERY WITH CHARGER
This V-120 Battery was designed for sportsmen on the go, with rugged construction and design features that make it ideal for summer and winter use. With a near "bulletproof" charger, this system packs enough power to run your equipment for hours, and for years to come.

BATTERY STATUS INDICATOR

The T-130 Battery Status Indicator works with all 12 volt lead acid batteries and can be permanently mounted or used as a portable unit. It monitors your battery constantly as it is discharging and charging. Battery charge status is indicated with highly visible LED lights. Portable durable, waterproof and compact. Draws very low current.
L-100 Flexible Night Light
It simply attaches to the Porta Case or other type of case to get light where it is needed. Just attach with the wing nut provided and hook up the battery clips. Extra bulb is included.

S-240 Sun Hood

The Sun Hood gives you full screen visibility in even the most extreme sunlight. Inexpensive and easy to take on and off.
More Depth Sounders From Vexilar
For a free color brochure please ask your dealer or contact Vexilar. The EDGE2 Model LC-507
The Edge, LC-507, is an amazing depth sounder. It is unique in that it is like having two totally different sonar in one unit. It comes with two transducers, a 107 kHz, 38 degree, and a 400 kHz, 10 degree. The idea is that you mount the transducers right next to each other and compare the two different views directly on the split screen. You can also run either beam at full screen. Speed, temp, and voltage sensors are included. This unit was designed for the very serious fisherman. It has a lot of powerful features, but is one of the easiest units ever made to understand and operate.

The FL-18

The FL-18 is the first ever flasher to incorporate a split-screen zoom. and with two modes of zoom, a low power mode for shallow water, and a super bright display, this unit is the ultimate three-color flasher.
The Boundary Waters Model LC-10
The LPS-1 is a simple to use handheld digital depth finder. Use it for fishing, ice fishing, canoeing, backpacking, and scuba diving. runs on one 9-volt battery.

The Deptherm Model 104

The fishing odds are on your side when you use DEPTHERM. It tells you quickly and accurately what temperatures are below your boat and it also tells you the temperature at a specific depth. If your DEPTHERM indicates that the water is too cold or too warm for the species you're after, you can quickly move, just as the fish do.
Transducers and Accessories
TB0044 - 19 Transom Mount High Speed Transducer. Comes with the Mounting Bracket and 25 Feet of Cable. TK144 - Complete Mounting Kit. Comes with TB0044 Transducer, FL-8 Power Cord, Unit Mounting Bracket, and all the Hardware You Need to do the Job Right. TB0030 - 9 Transom Mount High Speed Transducer. Comes with the Mounting Bracket and 25 Feet of Cable. TB0045 - Dual Beam 9/19 Transom Mount High Speed Transducer. Comes with the Mounting Bracket and 25 Feet of Cable. Built-In Switch Box must be Mounted within 3 Feet of the Depth Finder. BK0044 - Optional Suction Cup Mount for all of the above High Speed Transducers. Dual suction cups for extra holding power. TB0023 - 19 Puck Transducer. For Mounting on a Electric Trolling Motor, In-Hull Mounting, Portable Use, or Ice Fishing. Comes with 12 Feet of Cable. TK123 - Complete Mounting Kit. Comes with TB0023 Transducer, FL-8 Power Cord, Unit Mounting Bracket, and all the Hardware You Need to do the Job Right. BK0023 - Optional Suction Cup Mount for TB0023. TB0027 - 9 Puck Transducer. For Mounting on a Electric Trolling Motor, In-Hull Mounting, Portable Use, or Ice Fishing. Comes with 25 Feet of Cable.
TB0032 - Dual Beam 9/19 Puck Transducer. For Mounting on a Electric Trolling Motor, In-Hull Mounting, Portable Use, or Ice Fishing. Comes with 25 Feet of Cable. Built-In Switch Box must be Mounted within 3 Feet of the Depth Finder. BK0027 - Optional Suction Cup Mount for TB0027 and TB0032. TB0050 - 19 Ice-Ducer. Self Leveling and Floats in the Ice Hole. Comes with Float, Stopper, and 7 Feet of Specially Designed Cable. TB0051 - 9 Ice-Ducer. Self Leveling and Floats in the Ice Hole. Comes with Float, Stopper, and 7 Feet of Specially Designed Cable. TB0052 - Dual Beam 9/19 Ice-Ducer. Self Leveling and Floats in the Ice Hole. Comes with Float, Stopper, and 7 Feet of Specially Designed Cable. Built-In Switch Box must be Mounted within 3 Feet of the Depth Finder. "S" CABLE - The S-Cable (short for Suppression Cable) is used to reduce the output power of the FL-8 or FL-8SLT. This can often help clear up readings in shallow or cluttered waters. Simple installation between the unit and transducer. SB-100 Switch Box - The SB-100 Switch Box allows you to run two transducers on one FL-8 or FL-8SLT unit. You could switch between a trolling motor mounted transducer and a stern mounted one or, while ice fishing, switch between the hole you are fishing from and a remote hole. Also, the SB-200 is available as a switch box for two units and one transducer.

Service and Support

If you find that you need help please contact us. Have ready the model number and, if possible, the serial number of your product. Be sure to read the Question and Answer and Trouble Shooting sections first.

Address

Vexilar, Inc. 200 W. 88th St. Minneapolis, MN, 55420-2752

Telephone

(952) 884-5291 (8 am to 5 pm M-F Central Time)

(952) 884-5292

service@vexilar.com

Web Site

www.vexilar.com

LC-10 Operation Manual

CONTENTS
General Description Specifications Assembly Installation Operation Menu Functions Typical Indications Maintenance Trouble Shooting Other Products Optional Transducers Service and Support 24 27
Founded in 1965, Vexilar, Inc. has a long history of bringing revolutionary technology to the sport fishing industry. Just some of the Vexilar firsts include: the first liquid crystal display, the first fish alarm, the first three color display, and the first CRT and straight line paper graphs, for the sport fisherman.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

The Boundary Waters model LC-10 is a compact and light-weight liquid crystal depth sounder. It indicates depth, shows changes in bottom content, and conditions. It can also discriminate between large underwater targets, such as fish, and smaller targets such as bait fish and plankton. The unit transmits bursts of high frequency pulses which are converted from electrical to mechanical energy by the transducer. These "sound" pulses radiate from the transducer downward and are reflected back up to the transducer where the energy is converted back to electrical signals. The LC-10 then processes these signals and displays them. The graphic display is accomplished by activating individual or groups of pixels, or dots, on the LCD. The first vertical column of pixels, on the right edge of the display, shows the most current information. This column is then moved to the next place, to the left, as soon as a new column is ready. This process is repeated continually to make up the graphic display. Thus what you see on the display is a brief history of what the boat just went over. The LC10 displays the depth as an easy to read number in the lower corner of the display.

SPECIFICATIONS

Operating Voltage: Current Draw: Power Output: Frequency: Beam Angle: Resolution: Sounding Rate: Display Size: Dimensions: Weight: 8.5 - 15 Volts (12 Volts Nominal) 50mA (100 mA w/Backlight On) 400 Watts (Peak to Peak) 200 Khz 22 Degree 64 x 64 Pixels 750/Min. 2" x 2 1/4" 5.9"H x 6.4"W x 2.5"D 1.6 Lbs. (No Batteries)
Depth Ranges: 0-5', 0-10', 0-15', 0-20', 0-30', 0-40', 0-60', 0-80', 0-120', 0-160', 0-240', 0-320', and 0-400'.

Figure 3

ASSEMBLY
Set the battery tray down and place the unit, face down, inside. Line up the bracket holes and install the gimbal knobs. Make sure the rubber washers are in place. Turn the knobs in, but tighten only slightly.

INSTALLING THE BATTERIES

Turn the unit over to access the battery compartment door. Unscrew the two retaining screws and remove the compartment door. The screws are restricted from falling out so you don't need to worry about losing them. Install eight AA batteries (not included) by following the imprinted guides in the battery compartment. Use ALKALINE or NICAD rechargeable batteries. Replace the compartment door and tighten the screws back into place. Make sure that the power cord from the battery pack is plugged into the bottom (3 pin) jack on the LC-10 and that the retaining ring is screwed down tight. Note The battery compartment is not sealed. Water may leak inside. After use, , if it is wet inside, remove the batteries and leave the compartment open. This will allow it to dry and minimize any corrosion that may develop.

Figure 4

ASSEMBLING THE TRANSDUCER
Locate the transducer and bracket assembly. This includes: 1 - Transducer 1 - Metal angle bracket 1 - Suction cup 1 - Short panhead screw 2 - Short machine screws 2 - Nuts 2 - Washers 2 - Long panhead screws 1 - Safety rope The two longer wood screws, if included, are for permanently mounting the transducer bracket to the boat. They do not apply here. The suction cup installs using the single short screw. Attach it to the slot in the angle bracket. Center the vertical adjustment and tighten the screw until the suction cup can no longer rotate. Note - The small fin at the edge of each cup is meant to help you remove the cup from the surface it is stuck to.

Figure 5

Now locate the transducer and the remaining hardware. Install the transducer onto the angle bracket. The flat edge of the transducer should be facing the boat. Install the two short screws through the transducer slots and into the angle bracket slots. Place the washers and then the nuts onto the screws and tighten, only slightly. Slide the transducer up and forward in the bracket as far as it will go and then tighten the screws firmly. Finally, install the safety rope. Tie the rope around the upper end of the slot in the metal angle bracket. You will tie the other end to the boat.

TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION

The suction cup bracket is meant to be mounted on the transom or side of a boat. You may need to adjust the transducers position in the bracket to match the angle in which you mount it on your boat. Ideally, it should point straight down when your boat is normally loaded. Wet the suction cup and press the assembly onto the surface of the hull in the area where you are going the attach it. Slide the assembly up or down until the bottom edge of the transducer is close to the bottom edge of the hull. Tie the end of the safety rope to the boat. Leave as little slack in the rope as you can. If the suction cup lets loose, the rope may save your transducer and depth sounder from being lost. If your boat has a flat transom and you wish to get clear readings while the boat is moving at a faster speed, you

may need to purchase the optional Tri-Cup bracket shown in figure 6.
ALTERNATE TRANSDUCER MOUNTING

Figure 6

If you choose not to use the suction cup mounting method, you can permanently mount the transducer to your boat. This can, often, give better results, but you will lose the portability of the transducer.

TRANSOM MOUNTING

The LC-10 transducer can be mounted, permanently, on the transom of the boat. Proper installation will allow a clear depth reading at any boat speed. Attach the angle bracket to the transducer (flat edge facing forward). Locate a spot at the bottom of the transom that is clear of ribs and rivets that would be just in front of the transducer. Hold it up to the boat. Mark the first hole on the transom, or mounting plate, so that when the bottom of the transducer is flush with the bottom of the boat, the hole is located at the bottom of the bracket slot. This gives you room to "fine tune" the position of the transducer and optimize your reading after you've put the back boat in the water.
Drill out the hole, install one screw, and tighten the bracket down securely. Be sure to seal any holes drilled into the transom with silicone to prevent water from leaking into the boat. Figure 7 If you have trouble keeping a clear reading, try tilting the transducer in the bracket so that the back, rounded, edge is slightly lower than the front, straight, edge. If readings are still not clear, adjust the bracket on the boat downward until the reading becomes clear. Once you have verified that the unit reads at all boat speeds, drill out the second hole and install the second mounting screw.

IN-HULL MOUNTING

This method, gluing the transducer to the hull, gets the same results as if you were mounting the transducer externally, only there are no holes to drill in the boat and there is no transducer on the transom to get damaged by impact. This method works well for canoes and small boats that are moved in and out of the water often. Finding the best location for the transducer before mounting is critical. Choose a flat smooth spot near the center of the bilge and near the back of the boat. It is a good
idea to make a "test run" before you permanently install the transducer to make sure that you can indeed get a reading through your hull and at all speeds. Put about a half inch of water in the bottom of the boat and hold the transducer in the intended location. Move the transducer around until you get the best reading. Mark the spot. To install the transducer, first clean the spot of mud and oil. Using an epoxy or silicone glue, make a puddle, about the same size as the transducer, on the inside of the hull. Place the transducer in the glue. Press it down firmly, gently twisting it back and forth, making sure that there are no air bubbles in the glue between the transducer and the hull. Let the glue dry completely before turning the unit on.

PERMANENT MOUNTING (Optional)
You can permanently mount the LC-10 to your boat, yet maintain the easy portability for times when you go fishing in another boat. You will need to have a battery in your boat to power the unit. Also, you will need to order the optional Boundary Figure 8 Waters Mounting Kit. This kit contains a swivel gimbal mount, a transducer mounting bracket, and power cord.

OPERATION

Figure 9 shows the main controls of the LC-10.

ON/OFF

Turns the LC-10 ON and OFF. Simply turning the unit on will start the Automatic System. This will give good results in most conditions. If you choose to modify any of the control features, your settings will be saved in memory when the unit is turned off. When you turn it on again the unit will operate the same way as it did when you last used it.

Figure 9

Press the AUTO button to turn on or off the automatic range control feature. This feature will automatically change the depth range for you when the depth of the water moves outside the current range. When the AUTO feature is off you must change the range manually by pressing the SHALLOW or DEEP buttons.

RANGE CONTROL

The two buttons at the top right of the control panel set the depth range when the Auto Mode is off. Pressing the SHALLOW button changes the range to the next shallowest range. Pressing the DEEP button changes the range to the next deeper range.

LIGHT ON/OFF

Press the LIGHT ON/OFF button to turn on the Backlight. Press it again to turn the backlight off. NOTE The backlight will double the current requirement of the LC-10, thus cutting your battery life in half.

FISH ID ON/OFF

Press the FISH ID ON/OFF button to turn the fish identification feature on or off. When the feature is on, any target that the LC-10 sees will be judged as to whether or not it is a fish. If the unit determines that there is a good chance the target is a fish it will display a fish shaped symbol on the display.

ALARM ON/OFF

Press the ALARM ON/OFF button to turn on or off the fish alarm feature. When ON this feature will sound an alarm when a fish is detected. This feature works independently from the FISH ID feature.

EXPANSION

EXP. ON/OFF displays only the bottom half of the water depth when selected to ON. This doubles the display resolution making it much easier to see targets near or on the bottom. Pressing the EXP. ON/OFF button once puts the LC-10 in EXPANSION mode. Pressing it again will go back to the normal view.
Pressing the MENU button opens the menu page. Pressing it again will go back to the normal view. Each item in the menu will be explained in the next section.

Figure 10

MENU FUNCTIONS
Press the MENU button and then the LIGHT button to enter the SWEEP settings. SWEEP controls how fast the information moves across the display. There are 4 steps of sweep speed. The top selection, four arrows, is the fastest setting. The bottom selection, one arrow, is the slowest. The sweep speed should roughly match the boat speed to get the most accurate reading. Press the MENU button to resume to the normal view.

A-MODE

Press the MENU button and then the FISH ID button to enter the A-MODE settings. A-MODE is a vertical representation of the depth that is near "real time" speed, unlike the scrolling display which has more delay. It will be displayed to the right of the normal display on the screen. The default mode is off. To turn the feature on press the FISH ID button while you are in the A-MODE setting page of the menu. Pressing the ALARM button turns off the A-MODE and replaces it with a depth scale that can help when trying to judge the depth of a target. Press the MENU button to resume to the normal view.

TEMP ADJ

Press the MENU button and then the ALARM button to enter the TEMP ADJ settings. This page allows you to adjust or calibrate the temperature reading if you have the optional temperature probe installed on your LC-10. Pressing the LIGHT button will decrease the read temperature by one tenth of a degree each time you press it. Pressing the FISH ID button will increase the reading.
Press the MENU button and then the EXP. button to enter the system reset setting. RESET returns all setting back to the factory original settings. Press the FISH ID button to reset the system. Use this feature to trouble shoot problems or to get back to a "known" state.

RESUME

While in any menu page, press the MENU button to return back to the normal view.

SIMULATOR

There is a built-in simulator that will allow you to operate the LC-10 without being on the water. To activate it, turn the unit off. Then, press the ON/OFF button and hold it until you hear a second set of beeps. You can then let go and the simulator will start.

Typical Indications

Once the boat is in the water and you have turned on the LC-10 you must allow it time to find the bottom. This can take just a short moment or several minutes, depending on the depth and conditions. As soon as the digital depth appears the graphical representation of the bottom will start to move across the screen. The appearance of the bottom signal can give you information as to what type of bottom you are over. The LC-10 has a built in Clean Line feature which can help determine the hardness of the bottom. Clean Line "cleans out" the target signal on harder objects. A hard bottom will appear cleaned out in the center. A soft bottom will be all black.

Figure 11

SEEING FISH
With the FISH ID feature on, any target that the LC-10 identifies as a fish will change to a fish symbol shortly after it appears on the screen. With the FISH ID feature off, the Clean Line feature will help you identify fish from floating debris. If the target appears cleaned out, you can assume it's something significant, like a fish. In heavy weeds this can be difficult to see. It is best to use the Fish ID feature in these conditions.

SURFACE CLUTTER

The line of information going across the top of the display represents the surface of the water. This line can get quite wide at times, due to surface clutter. Tiny marine life, such as algae or plankton, can be responsible for this. Choppy or rough waters can also be a cause as tiny air bubbles are forced down under the surface. Surface clutter has little effect on the performance of the unit.

HIGH SPEED OPERATION

The LC-10 can read depths at almost any boat speed. Due to the limited speed of the display, the displayed bottom may be some distance behind you, depending on how fast the boat is traveling. Use the A-MODE feature to help you with high speed readings. Here, high speed is defined as any speed at or above the speed at which the boat planes out. Once the boat starts to plane, turbulence will develop
behind the transom. If your transducer is poorly mounted, the unit will lose the bottom at a certain boat speed. This is due to all of the air bubbles in the turbulent water. Readjustment of the transducer mounting should solve this problem.

SHALLOW WATER OPERATION

When the LC-10 is in the AUTO mode, it automatically senses the bottoms depth and tries to keep the best view at all times. Although the display may not show it, the LC10 is monitoring basic sonar signals such as the bottoms second echo and various target's signal strengths. This way it can maintain the optimum gain level, automatically, for you. In very shallow water (less than 3 feet) the unit can get "over-welmed". In this condition the unit will show erroneous information. The graphic display will become mostly black and the digital numbers on the display will read depths that are much deeper than reality. These depths are actually multiple echoes of the real bottom. It is important to use caution when navigating in shallow waters. Use common sense. Don't rely solely on your depthfinder. It often helps to turn off the AUTO feature and manually change the range to the 5 or 10 foot range. This tells the LC-10 that you are in shallow water and it will adjust the gain appropriately. If the digital depth reading doesn't seem right, it is probably a multiple of the correct depth. Use the graphic display as a better reference.

ICE FISHING

The stable platform of ice lets you concentrate on your bait and the fish around it. The bottom becomes less important because it never changes. The only movement on the display is of your bait and fish. Unlike open water use, the direction in which the transducer is pointed is very critical. You want your bait to be located in the dead center of the cone sound, directly under the transducer. This way you can see very small baits at low gain settings and also see fish come in from all sides. If you are not using the optional Ice-Ducer system, the transducer must be attached to an adjustable arm so that it can be manually pointed directly at the bait. Sometimes it helps to attach a bubble level to the FIGURE 12 transducer so that you know when it's straight. When you drop your bait down into the water, you should see it come onto the screen as a line curving towards the bottom. If you are using a swimming bait or a lure that darts to the side as it's jigged, you will see the signal strength change as the bait moves. This is due to the changing position of your bait. Sometimes it may even disappear if the bait goes out of the cone.

MAINTENANCE

Maintenance for the Boundary Waters LC-10 is very simple. There, simply, is not that much to maintain. Because of this, problems can sneak up on you if you're not careful. The unit and transducer should be removed whenever the boat is parked to guard against theft. Don't store it in a place that may fill with water. Power connections need constant checking. Corrosion can develop and cause intermittent or loss of operation. Spray the power connector and battery compartment with silicone to prevent this. Remove the batteries before you put the unit away for storage. The transducer should be checked for scratches and cracks which can reduce the units sensitivity. Cuts or breaks in the cord should be repaired as soon as possible so corrosion doesn't attack the wire. Periodically clean the face of the transducer with a mild detergent. An oily film can develop which will cause weak readings. Clean the face of the unit with a mild soap. Don't submerge the unit when cleaning.

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Symptom

Unit will not turn on.

Possible Cause
Check for proper battery polarity and that you have fully charged, working batteries. Battery voltage may be too low. The unit will show no display if the voltage is below 8.5 volts. Bad battery. Voltage may be good when checked, but may fall as it is loaded. Transducer is not plugged in or not in contact with the water. Transducer is not aimed correctly or needs to be cleaned. Many air bubbles or very small targets in the water. Improper transducer installation or adjustment. There is a loss of clear water flow across the face of the transducer when the boat reaches a certain speed. Improper ground or missing ground in electrical system. Defective engine or trolling motor. Internal lithium battery is dead. Replace with new. Common number is CR2032.
Unit is turned on, but there is no display. Unit runs well for a short time, then the unit quits. Unit runs and shows display light, but does not read depth. Unit works, but needs high gain to see bottom or targets. Unit works, but has too many lines on the display. Can't tell what is what. Unit works well when sitting still or at slow trolling speeds, but loses reading when the boat speeds up. Unit works, but shows noise when the engine is started or the electric trolling motor is turned on. Unit does not save settings in memory. Does not sound normal beeps when turned on.

OTHER VEXILAR PRODUCTS

The Edge
The Edge, model LC-507, is the ultimate LCD depth sounder. Its unique design incorporates two transducers running at the same time. The split screen view is like having two different depth finders built into one unit.
The FL-8SLT Color Flasher
The FL-8SLT is a compact and lightweight flasher designed for serious anglers. Besides indicating depth, the unit also shows changes in bottom content and conditions. It has three display colors. Red indicates a strong signal and green indicates a weak signal. Orange is a medium signal.

The FL-18 Color Flasher

The FL-18 has many of the same features as the FL-8SLT, plus additional features such as split-screen zoom, a low power mode for shallow water, and a super bright display.

BATTERY STATUS INDICATOR

The Vexilar Battery Status Indicator works with all 12 volt batteries and can be permanently mounted or used as a portable unit. It monitors your battery constantly as it is discharging and charging. Battery charge status is indicated with highly visible colored LED lights.
12 VOLT SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERY WITH CHARGER
This Vexilar Battery was designed for sportsmen on the go, with rugged construction and design features that make it ideal for summer and winter use. With a near "bulletproof" charger, this system packs enough power to run your equipment for hours, and for years to come.

PORTA CASE

The unique Vexilar Flasher Porta Case holds your FL-8SLT, LC-10, or other manufacturer's sonar or GPS. It has space for your transducer, a rechargeable battery, and the Vexilar Battery Status Indicator. The round base is just the right size to fit down inside a standard 5 gallon bucket.

104 DEPTHERM

The fishing odds are on your side when you use DEPTHERM. It tells you quickly and accurately what temperatures are below your boat and it also tells you the temperature at a specific depth. If your DEPTHERM indicates that the water temp is wrong for the species you're after, you can quickly move.

OPTIONAL TRANSDUCERS

HIGH SPEED TRANSDUCERS TB0044-7P
19 Degree Transom Mount High Speed Transducer. Comes with the Mounting Bracket and 25 Feet of Cable.

TB0030-7P

9 Degree Transom Mount High Speed Transducer. Comes with the Mounting Bracket and 25 Feet of Cable.

TB0045-7P

Dual Beam 9/19 Degree Transom Mount High Speed Transducer. Comes with the Mounting Bracket and 25 Feet of Cable. Built-In Switch Box must be Mounted within 3 Feet of the Depth Finder.

TB0084-7P

12 Degree Transom Mount High Speed Transducer. Comes with the Mounting Bracket and 25 Feet of Cable.

BK0044

Optional Suction Cup Mount for all of the above High Speed Transducers. Dual suction cups for extra holding power.
PUCK STYLE TRANSDUCERS TB0023-7P
19 Degree Puck Transducer. For Mounting on a Electric Trolling Motor, In-Hull Mounting, Portable Use, or Ice Fishing. Comes with 15 Feet of Cable.

BK0023

Optional Suction Cup Mount for TB0023.

TB0027-7P

9 Degree Puck Transducer. For Mounting on a Electric Trolling Motor, In-Hull Mounting, Portable Use, or Ice Fishing. Comes with 25 Feet of Cable.

TB0032-7P

Dual Beam 9/19 Degree Puck Transducer. For Mounting on a Electric Trolling Motor, In-Hull Mounting, Portable Use, or Ice Fishing. Comes with 25 Feet of Cable. Built-In Switch Box must be Mounted within 3 Feet of the Depth Finder.

TB0087-7P

12 Degree Puck Transducer. For Mounting on a Electric Trolling Motor, In-Hull Mounting, Portable Use, or Ice Fishing. Comes with 25 Feet of Cable.
ICE FISHING TRANSDUCERS TB0050-7P
19 Degree Ice-Ducer. Self Leveling and Floats in the Ice Hole. Comes with Float, Stopper, and 7 Feet of Specially Designed Cable.

TB0051-7P

9 Degree Ice-Ducer. Self Leveling and Floats in the Ice Hole. Comes with Float, Stopper, and 7 Feet of Specially Designed Cable.

TB0052-7P

Dual Beam Ice-Ducer. Self Leveling and Floats in the Ice Hole. Comes with Float, Stopper, and 7 Feet of Specially Designed Cable. Built-In Switch Box must be Mounted within 3 Feet of the Depth Finder.

TB0080-7P

12 Degree Ice-Ducer. Self Leveling and Floats in the Ice Hole. Comes with Float, Stopper, and 7 Feet of Specially Designed Cable.

SERVICE AND SUPPORT

If you find that you need help, feel free to contact us. Please have ready the model number and, if possible, the serial number of your product. Be sure to read the Trouble Shooting sections first.

Address

Vexilar, Inc. 200 W. 88th St. Minneapolis, MN, 55420-2752

Telephone

(952) 884-5291 (8 am to 5 pm M-F Central Time)

(952) 884-5292

Web Site

www.vexilar.com

service@vexilar.com