Volvo PV 544 B
Volvo PV 544 B CAR, size: 30.0 MB
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User reviews and opinions
|titi23||10:13pm on Monday, October 18th, 2010|
|Pros: EXCELLENT LINUX SUPPORT, Silent, 256mb, DDR2, Dual monitor out, optional low profile bracket. Cons: AGP, not the fastest card around. well, its not a such high-end processor. but i strongly recommend it because of its value for money.|
|!rosee||6:48pm on Monday, October 4th, 2010|
|Cards are getting REAL cheap,and there are tons to choose from. Decent 256MB card that supports 8x AGP.Price is $40 by now. I would consider this a Budget card. I notice... 101 CAD (35$ US rebate), big difference between ATI Radeon X200 Not good with DX10 games I would consider this a Budget card. I notice a big difference increase in my FPS in games between ATI Radeon X200 (integrated).|
|rafa_dex||2:04am on Saturday, September 25th, 2010|
|This card has provided trouble free performance and handled everything I have thrown at it. Even with two additional fans, one above one below, it was still running pretty warm Good for the money Died after 2 years, runs hot I needed a board that could support 2560X1600 resolution and run on my system that has a 240 Watt power supply. This card does it great. I run this as a secondary video card in my PC.|
|binsleylmt||3:27am on Friday, August 13th, 2010|
|Passive cooled, and quiet, "Check!". 7900 gtx performance when overclocked, "Check!". Can be cooled much easier with passive cooler, "Check!".|
|Sixsous||6:35pm on Tuesday, August 3rd, 2010|
|I know my review is well behind the others already on here, but I only bought my 8800GTX around a month or so ago. Either way. The stereotypical view of a gaming pc is that of a ludicrously expensive, liquid nitrogen cooled.|
|pb||7:16am on Tuesday, July 13th, 2010|
|I have an older (from 2003) computer that still worked well, although it was in dire need of some updating. I decided to get it a new hard drive.|
|blonde||6:16am on Tuesday, May 25th, 2010|
|"This is really a great graphics card for the price. "This is a great video card for playing games and watching high definition movies. It supports H.|
|rfrenkel123||8:49am on Sunday, April 25th, 2010|
|graphics exelerator Beware of hardware that changes the performance of your computer. this graphics card was not compatable with my computer.|
|greulen||5:46am on Friday, April 9th, 2010|
|"This card is a powerhouse. It worked great with every game I threw at it, even Crysis. If you turn up the fan speed a bit, it overclocks well too.|
Comments posted on www.ps2netdrivers.net are solely the views and opinions of the people posting them and do not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of us.
3. Front carburetor 4. Equalizing tube
5. Oil cleaner 6. Carburetor
7. Container for windshield washer B. Oil filling tap 9. Charging control
10. Windshield washer motor 11. Throttle control 12. Air cleaner 13. Battery U. Distributor 15. Coil 16. Hoses for heating lyite 17. Fusebox 18. Heater
20. Fan for heater 21. Oil dipstick
22. Generator 23. Fuel filterwith fuel pump
24. Junction block for electrical leads
25. Chain for radiator blind 26. Steering gear
27. Filling cap for radiator 11
. The electrical system is of the six-volt type and is fitted with a voltage control generator. The starter motor is controlled from the instrument panel by means of the ignition key. This key also forms the main switch for the rest of the electrical system. The cables to the headlights, parking lights and internal lighting, however, are not taken over the ignition switch but can be switched on and off without the ignition key being in position.
The lighting on the vehicle consists of two headlights (full and dipped) together with two combined flasher and parking lights. At the rear the lighting consists of two tail lights including flashers as well as combined lamps for the tail lights and the brake warning lights. Internal lighting consists of a roof light above the rear view mirror. See pages 4244 concerning replacement of bulbs.
The electrical system is protected by means of fuses fitted in a fusebox to the left on the bulkhead under the hood. When replacing a fuse, be sure that you use a fuse of the right rating. If one of the fuses should blow repeatedly do not fit a more powerful fuse. Instead, take the vehicle to a workshop for a check of the electrical system. 15. Control for fan 16. Charging control lamp 17. Full headlight warning lamp 18. Direction indicator warning lamp 19. Oil pressure warning lamp 20. Fuel gauge 21. Horn ring 22. Ignition coil 23. Windshield wiper motor 24. Charging relay 25. Windshield washer motor 26. Fusebox 27. Roof lamp 28. Switch in front door 29. Distributor (order of firing 1-3-4-2) 30. Plug 31. Battery 32. Starter motor 33. Generator 34. Horn 35. Flasher and parking light, left 36. Flasher and parking light, right 37. Headlight, left 38. Headlight, right
1. Left-hand tail light 2. Right-hand tail light 3. Number plate lighting 4. Connector 5. Ventilator fan 6. Lighting switch 7. Brake pedal 8. Flasher impulse unit 9. Lighting control 10. Direction indicator switch 11. Instrument lighting 12. Ignition switch 13. Cigarette lighter 14. Controls for windshield wipers and windshield washer
The angle of the front seat backrests can be adjusted by removing or adding further shimi under the backrest setting screws,.
Doors and locks(2
The car is provided with locks for both the doors. The doors are locked from inside by moving the handle downwards (position 3). In order to prevent you from being locked out of the car, the door handle lifts again automatically closed. Jf you happen to lose the keys, you car go to your nearest Volvo dealer who will supply you with new keys. In order to prevent the locks from freezing during the winter, these should be regularly "lubricated" with some antl-freeze agent. Several preparations of this type are available commercially. Remember to apply it in good time , during the winter. and to apply this ''lubricant'1 regularly to the locks If the lock has frozen up in extremely ^^^ |cold weather be careful that you do not break the key. A good plan is to warm up the key and then insert it quickly into the lock whereby the ice there melts. The The Ing ' lowered in the ij be to this when the door is
luggage compartment is opened is by The then built the should catch is locked turnlid held Into lid first re Always be careful to tighten the spare wheel securely and to pack in the toolbag and jack properly as otherwise irritating rattles can arise. with the same key as used (or the door. compartment the handle slightly. position be closed up so anti-clockwise. The by hinge. again, that a lid is catch When it the
Is lifted up as far as it will go and then
leased and then lowered, ^The spare wheel is attached by a bolt with nut lifted washer is to after and be which a wing the and nut. bolt moved When the out should wheel used, unscrew
Position 1 Open Position 1 Position 3 Closed Locked
^P the wing be
wards as shown in fig. 3.
There is > special bedding set (or the Volvo PV 544 which can be ordered from four Volvo dealer (part number 79772).
Extra equipment on this vehicle includes safety belts for both the front seats. Utilize this simple but effective safety device. The practical design of the belt type used makes it so simple to engage and disengage the belts so that you get used to fitting the belts as an automatic procedure before starting the engine. The length of the belt can be adjusted on that part of the belt which Is attached to the floor. Make sure that the belt has che right length for you.
The bedding let consist! of two support bars ind four plvoc studs with leather strap for locking. The pivot studs are Intended to replace , permanently the pi/ot boles with which the front seat backrests are equipped as standard. The old pivot. \ bolts are removed and the new ones with leather straps fitted ai shown in fig. 1.
15. Radiator blind control 16. Ashtray
17. Radio panel 16. Heater controls 19. Foot dipper switch 20. Clutch pedal 21. Brake pedal 22. Accelerator pedal
23. Horn ring 2i. Steering wheel
25. Gearshift lever 26. Cigarette lighter (extra)
The temperature gauge shows the temperature of the cooling system and thus indicates the working temperature of the engine. The indicator on this gauge should remain within the green markings. If it should show an excessively high temperature for a longer time without the radiator blind being pulled up. this cm depend upon the fact that the channels in the cooling system are blocked and circulation is thus being hindered. In such cases the cooling system should be cleaned (see page 40).
Charging control lamp
Thii lamp lights up when the battery Is discharging, this being normal at idling speed. If you accelerate a little, this lamp should go out. Should the lamp light up while you are driving, this generally means that there is some fault in the electrical system or that the fan belt is not sufficiently tensioned and is slipping on the pulley thereby causing poor charging.
This trip meter, which is graduated in tenths of a mile, can be used to measure even short distances. This meter can be reset to zero by means of a control under the instrument panel to the left of the steering column. Dimmed headlights
The headlights are controlled by meins of a push pull switch on the instrument
panel and by a foot dimmer switch (21) to the left on the floor. The headlights are switched from full on to dipped and vice versa by depressing the dimmer switch with your foot-Instrument lighting
The speedometer has a horizontal field, the right hand point showing the speed at which you are travelling. Since the length of the red strip is proportional to the speed, this is in itself a safety factor the more r*d you can see, the more dangerous your speed. >
The instrument lighting is regulated by turning the lighting switch button.
Headlight flasher If the direction indicator lever is lifted directly towards the steering wheel, a special flasher apparatus starts functioning.
The more this button is turned clockwise, the stronger the instrument lighting
wilt be. Internal lighting
The miteometer shows the total distance covered in miles. At a reading of miles the mechanism returns to zero and starts to go round again.
1. The lamp lights when the left-hand door ii opened. 2. The light Is off all the time, i.
Oil pressure warning lamp
When you switch on the ignition this lamp should light up and then go ojt again when the engine has been started. Should the lamp remain on while you are driving, the engine should be stopped immediately and the cause for this determined. In most cases it means that the oil I evil is too low.
If the vehicle is to be towed, the tow-line should not be attached directly to the bumpers but should be taken round the bumper supports. While the vehicle is being towed, the tow-line should be kept evenly stretched since violent jerks can damage the bumpers. 30
Lubrication is the most important procedure in servicing a vehicle. The cost of lubricant is insignificant compared with the cost of repairs caused by neglected lubrication. All metallic surfaces, no matter how finely ground they are, consist of extremely small uneven points. If two ground surfaces are pressed together and rubbed, the uneven surfaces will engage in each other and result in friction and wear. If these two surfaces are separated by a thin coating of oil, however, the friction disappears and with it the wear. This is exactly what happens when bearings, pistons and gears in the vehicle are lubricated. The oil or grease actually prevents the metallic surfaces from coming in contact with one another. This means that from a purely theoretical viewpoint the metallic surfaces in a motor vehicle are never subject to wear and it should be sufficient to lubricate them once. Unfortunately this is not so in practice. The uneven surfaces are worn down more and more and the minute particles released contaminate the oil which becomes also partially carbonized. It is thus impossible to avoid wear completely but wear can be decreased and prevented to a very large extent by regular and careful lubrication.
In order to avoid squeaking from doors and locks, the body should be lubricated after every km (miles) running. During the winter the locks should also be lubricated with some antifreeze preparation which prevents the locks from freezing up.
Make a habit of insuring that the vehicle is given all-round lubrication according to the instructions in the lubricating chart at the end of this book after a certain number of miles. You should preferably follow the recommendations in the service book concerning all-round lubrication after every km (750 miles) since this mileage is based on research carried out by the Volvo factory. Use only top-quality lubricants of well-known manufacture.
When all-round lubrication is ordered at a service station, the servicing procedures detailed for km (750 miles) intervals in the lubricating chart are followed. Apart from this the oil level in the engine is checked as well as the cooling water level and the electrolyte level in the battery. Before lubrication is carried out, all the lubricating points must be carefully cleaned to prevent dust and other impurities from getting into the bearings. 11 1. Hood hinges 2. Door hinges 3. Hood lock
Light engine oil
4. Windshield wiper arm attachment 5. Ventilation window lock 6. Door lock plungers 7. Front seat sliderails 8. Locking mechanism, etc. (accessible after the door upholstery panels have been removed). Lubrication need only be carried out about every km (12 500) miles or once a year Keyholes Luggage compartment hinges Luggage compartment lock 35 Pulverised graphite Light engine oil Light engine oil Paraffin
Check the cooling water level
The engine cooling water level should be checked each time the fuel tank is filled. Water is added through the filler opening at the top of the radiator. In order to avoid deposits in the cooling system, only clean water should be used (not water containing chalk or iron), together with some rust-preventive additive. Do not use rust-preventive agents based on mineral oil since these can damage the rubber hoses in the cooling system. Be careful when you unscrew the radiator cap. There are two positions on the cap when loosening it, one to decrease pressure in the system and the second to remove the cap itself.
Replace the spark plugs
When the electrodes have been burnt down about 50 %, all the spark plugs should be replaced. This corresponds to a driving stretch of about km (miles). This replacement should preferably be carried out at a Volvo workshop where the spark plugs are tightened with a torque wrench to about 3.5 kgm (25 Ib.ft.). When fitting new spark plugs, be sure that you fit the right type (see page 55). Consult a Volvo workshop if you consider fitting another type of plug.
Never add cold water to a hot engine. "The sudden change in temperature can cause cracks in the engine.
ff3 Ignition system
The distributor contact breaker gap and the engine ignition timing setting should be checked in a Volvo workshop after every 5000 km (3000 miles). All adjusting work should be done by the workshop which has the necessary equipment for this purpose. The distributor is one of the most sensitive units in the engine and careless handling can lead to decreased engine output and high fuel consumption or even serious damage to the engine.
Clean the cooling system
If the cooling system is to function in an effective manner, all the channels in the engine and radiator must be free from deposits and impurities. The deposits that build up consist of the salts which are always present in normal water. Cleaning can be conveniently carried out in connection with filling or draining of anti-freeze in the fall and spring, (see page 52).
The carburetor float chamber should be removed and cleaned after every 5000 km (3000 miles). After every 20000 km (12500 miles), the vehicle should be taken to a Volvo workshop for the carburetor to be thoroughly cleaned and checked.
Acceleration pump (B 16 A)
The carburetor is fitted with an acceleration pump and the length of the pump stroke is determined by a cam washer which can be ad justed for short or long strokes by lifting the washer and turning it half a turn. The best acceleration performance is obtained when the arm is towards the lower cam. This will, however, also result in increased fuel consumption.
21 Check the spark plugs
The spark plugs should be checked in a Volvo workshop after every 5000 km - (miles). The plugs should be cleaned by using a brush or a sand-blaster and should then be blown well clean with compressed air. The electrode gap can be checked by using a wire gauge with a diameter of 0.7 0.8 mm (0.028-0.032"). After the spark plugs have been cleaned and adjusted they should be thoroughly tested.
The fuel used should be gasoline with an octane value of at least 83* for B 16 A and 93* for B 16 B. If gasoline with too low an octane value is used, knocking or glow ignition can result.
*) Research Method
Q Check the battery electrolyte level
On vehicles fitted with Sealed Beam headlights, follow the instructions under pictures 11 and then replace the complete unit.
Replacing the roof light bulb
When replacing the roof light bulb the lamp shade Is pulled straight out. 42
9 Check the air pressure
Make a habit of checking the air pressure in the tires regularly. The best way to do this is to check [he pressures every time you fill the fuel tank. See page 57 for the correct air pressures. Do not forget the spare wheel when you check the air pressure. Even if this wheel is not used, the air pressure cm go down and you wi find that the tire is flat just when you need it. Do not leave the spare wheel unused for any length of time but interchange it with one of the other tires at regular intervals, The tires with which the car is equipped 2S standard are, according to the manufacturers, suitable for speeds up to 160 km.p.h. (100 m.p.h.). For prolonged driving at high speeds (140160 km.p.h. = 90-100 m.p.h.) the manufacturers recommend that the pressure should be increased by 0.4 kg/cma(6lb,'sq.in.) If the car is trimmed in such a way that it can be driven at speeds exceeding 160 km.p.h. (100 m.p.h.]. special highspeed tires must be f tied. Excessively low air pressure is one of the most usual reasons for abnormal tire wear. If pressure is too low, the outer edges of the tread take the whole loading and are therefore worn down very quickly. Insufficiently inflated tires
Excessively high air pressure means that the tire is worn along the centre of the tread. It also means that the tire cannot stand up to impact which results in
Changing a wheet
severe tire damage. Before the vehicle is jacked up, the handbrake should be applied and one of the gears should be engaged to make sure that the vehicle stands still. Liy a couple of stones or chockj in front of and behind the wheels that are to remain on the ground. Do not rely entirely on the jack, for safety's sake, a block or something similar should be used as an extra support under the vehicle.
Lever off the hub cap with the help of the spade-shaped lever.
Loosen the wheel nuts to a certain extent with the help of the socket and tommy bar. All the wheels have nuts with right-hand threads which are loosened by turning In an anticlockwise direction. Insert the lifting claw of the jack in the appropriate jack attachment of the wheel to be changed. Lift up the side of the car far enough for the wheels to turn freely. Unscrew the wheel nuts completely and lift off the wheel. Be careful when lifting off the wheel so that the threads of the studs are not damaged. Fit the new wheel and tighten the nuts until the wheel Is in good contact with the hub flange. Then lower the vehicle and tighten the nuts finally. Tighten the nuts alternately. Fit the hub cap by striking it smartly with the hand opposite th last of the lugs to engage.
Tighten the wheel nuts, balance the wheels
After every 10000 km (6000 milej} the wheel nuts should be tightened to atorqueof10-Ukgm(7I-100lb.ft.) The wheels should also be balanced at the same time if this proves necessary. If inspection of the tires shows chat there are particularly worn spots and unusual wear on the tread, take the vehicle to a Volvo workihop for th wheels to be balanced.
When the vehicle is new it should be washed often to harden the surface finish. Otherwise the vehicle should be washed as soon as it is dirty or dusty. If dust and dirt are allowed to be in contact with the surface finish for some length of time, damage can result. While the vehicle is being washed it should stand where it is not in direct sunshine since sunshine can cause drying patches. First rinse off the underside of the body with a jet of water and use a soft brush if necessary. Then rinse down the entire body with a fairly light jet until the dirt has loosened up. Do not be stingy with the water. Then wash off the dirt with a sponge using plenty of water. If washing with water alone is not sufficient, washing agents can be used. Be very careful when choosing a washing agent since some of them are detrimental to the surface finish. Spots of tar, etc. can be removed by using kerosene. If the vehicle has white sidewall tires, these can be cleaned by scrubbing them with washing agents, scouring powder or, in the worse cases, a fine sandpaper. Whenever washing agents are used, the tires must be carefully rinsed off afterwards with clean water. After washing, clean the vehicle carefully with a soft, clean chamois leather.
Wash with warm soap solution and then rinse off with cold water. After this pour a little dilute ammonia (1 part of ammonia to 5 parts of water) over the stain. Allow the ammonia to remain for a minute or so and then dry off with a moist cloth.
Rub hard with a rag moistened in hot water and allow the stain to dry. Then use carbon tetrachloride.
Rub the stain with a rag moistened with hot water. When the stain is dry rub
Loosen up the chewing gum with carbon tetrachloride and then scrape off with a blunt knife before it has dried.
If you're thinking of travelling abroad with your vehicle or taking a long trip on the whole, you should have your vehicle overhauled in a Volvo ^*T*1^^ s -'--^, W\ / F | Jl \ jl if ^ HHft ^^^^^^/ J^F^^^L^ f \ ^ ^ } j
long journey, the following tips are worth noting:
Give the vehicle thorough all-round lubrication. workshop. You will enjoy your jourbetter if you know that your Flush out the engine cooling system and check the hose clips. 3 Examine the tires carefully. Replace worn tires. 4 If you are not sure whether the engine is functioning perfectly and the fuel consumption is normal, you can save both time and money by doing a thorough overhaul. 5 Examine the state of charge of the battery and clean tern 6 Check brakes, front wheel alignment and steering gear. 7 Check the tool kit and check the spare wheel. 8 Check the lighting and adjust your headlights for right-hand traffic if necessary.
vehicle is in perfect trim. You drive in a more relaxed way if you're certain
ever/thing is functioning perfect-
ly- You thus avoid irritating incidents ' vou avoid expensive and timetaking stoppages. Even if something unforeseen should happen, your journey does not need to be spoiled. Wherever you go you know you have
Volvo workshops within reach and these workshops can take care of your vehicle very quickly. Do not forget your regular servicing during your trip abroad. All Volvo workshops abroad are equipped to give your vehicle the service it needs.
If you prefer to look over your vehicle yourself before taking a
Servicing Procedure in cold weather
When cold weather is in the offing, It Is time to chink of the winter servicing of your vehicle. The first heavy night frosts can come as an unpleasant surprise unless preventive precautions have been taken. Most people know that there should be anti-freeze in the radiator but have you thought that the water in the windshield washer can also freeze and that moisture can freeze in the locks?
Mixing table for ethylene glycol'water
Coolini iritcm Ciplcit)'
NaiAiurr amount of tthylepc ElycoHor Iron protection down to: -IS'C (SF) (14F) Imp. pinu U.S. pint* 15 It 3V, V. VI. *<l.
-30 C (-
Engine lubricating system
During the winter engine oil with a viscosity of SAE 10W should be used for ihe engine lubricating system. This lighter oil reaches the lubricating points ir the engine more easily at low temperatures and also facilitates cold starting. If you drive mainly short distances during the winter, the engine oil should be changed more often than usual, for example after every km (1500 miJes). If the vehicle has been stand ing outdoors dunng the night in very cold weather, you should not start driving is soon as the engine has been started. Let the engine run for a minute or so at rapid idling speed first.
Some suitable type of ami-freeze should be added to the cooling system in good time before cold weather. The most usual anti-freeze agents are ethylene glycol and methylated spirit. Methylated spirit, however, has the disadvantage that it evaporates at normal engine temperatures. Ethylene glycol is made more permanent and is therefore preferable for use as anti-freeze. Pure. ethylene glycol has a corrosive effect on the cooling system in the engine and that is why the anti-freeie preparation available on the market has corro-sion-preventative additives. For certain chemical reasons the quantity of these additives is only sufficient to last for one winter season. Under unfavorable conditions, they can even be used up more quickly, for example if tliere is sludge, rust or flushing agents left in the cooling system. The cooling system should be thoroughly flushed out before anti-freeze is added. Drain off the entire cooling system including the heater, flush out with water, steam at a pressure of about 1 kg/cm* (14 p.s.i.) or soda solution.
The electrical system in the vehicle is subjected to greater stresses during the winter than during the warm summer months. The lighting and the starter motor are used more and since the capacity of the battery is also considerably tower with low air temperatures, the state of charge must be checked more often. If the battery voltage is excessively low there is risk of frost damage to the battery.
Drain cocks for cooling system During the winter the brakes are subjected to splash and condensation water to a greater extent than during the summer and the result of this can be that the handbrake cable may freeze up if the handbrake is left on. When you park the car, do not apply the handbrake but engage first gear or reverse.
Windshield washer, anti-freeze for door locks
In the same way as anti-freeze is added to the cooling system during the winter to prevent frost damage, anti-freeze should also be added to the windshield washer water container. Your Volvo dealer can supply you with i suitable anti-freeze for this purpose A frozen door lock is one of the most irritating things that can happen to a carowner. Many valuable minutes early m the morning can go to waste warming up keys and melting ice in locks. Remember chis in good time and lubricate the lock with some anti-freeie preparation.
Symbols !^k ~ ^^ fl
Lubricate after every:
Brake fluid HD type Light engine oil Engine oil Grade (B16A): For Service MM or MS (B16B): For Service MS Viscosity: below 0 C (32 F) SAE 10 W 0-30 C (32-90 F) SAE 20 over 30 C (90 F) SAE 30 Transmission oil Viscosity: SAE 80 all the year round*) ^
Rear axle oil Grade: Hypoid oil Viscosity: SAE 80 all the year round*) Lubricant see notes
e King pin Lower control arm Steering rod Wheel bearing Motel Upper control arm King pin
Engine. 2.75 liters 47/s Imp.pints 6 US pints Engine, incl. oil cleaner. 3.5 liters 6*/4 Imp. pints 7% US pints Transmission.. 0.75 liter 1*/4 Imp. pints 1V2 US pints Rear axle. 1.3 liters 2x/4 Imp. pints 23/4 US pints
Notes for lubricating chart
Note 1 The front wheel bearings should be disassembled after every 20000 km (12500 miles). The bearings should be cleaned and then carefully packed with heat-resistant grease. Note 2 Check that the oil level is up to the filler plug. Use SAE 80 hypoid oil (above 30 C (90 F) - SAE 90). Note 3 Check the brake fluid level. If necessary top up with new brake fluid. Note 4 Lubricate the wick under the rotor with a few drops of light engine oil. Also add a few drops of oil to the lubricator. Note 5 Check every 1250 km (750 miles) that the oil level is up to the filler plug. The oil should be changed after every 20000 km (12500 miles). Note 6 The rear wheel bearings should be disassembled after every km (miles) or at least every other year. See note 1. Note 7 Fill the lubricator with light engine oil. The lubricator is opened by turning the outer casing. Use a normal oil can (not a pressure can). Note 8 At every engine oil change light engine oil (SAE 20) should be filled into the carburetor damping cylinders. Unscrew the nuts at the top of the carburetors and remove the plunger. Fill up with oil so that the spindle but not the part above it is full. Also lubricate the carburetor jets sparingly after the choke control has been pulled out fully. Note 9 Lubricate sparingly with heat-resistant grease. Note 10 Check the oil level when you fill the fuel tank (at least every 14th day). Change the oil after every km (miles) as well as in the spring and in the fall when the viscosity is changed (see page 36). Note 11 Have the handbrake cable lubricated with graphite grease twice a year at a Volvo workshop. Note 12 Every 1250 km (750 miles) check that the oil is up to the filler plug. The __ oil should be changed after every 20000 km (miles).
) See page 37 62
Steering gear Note 2 Brake fluid Note 3 Pedal shaft Clutch shaft Distributor Note 4 Transmission Notes Handbrake lever Generator (B16A] Note 7
Wheel bearing Note 6 Universal joint III
Rear axle Note 12
mechanically. The early model had a 3-speed transmission and a sportstuned version of Volvo's old PV-series 3-mainbearing engine, which had bore and stroke dimensions of 2.95 and If thou shouldst lay up even a little upon a little, 3.15 in., and a displacement of 1414 cc. and shouldst do this often, The new engine, carrying the desigsoon would even this become great.-Hesiod, 720 B.C. nation "B-l8," also has 4 cyl and a stroke of 3.15 in., just like its immediA TIDAL WAVE of cars from across the Atlantic came ate ancestor, but that is where the resemblance stops. The to our shores about 7 years ago, and in the full flowerB-18 engine has a 5-mainbearing crankshaft, with bearings i ng of American enthusiasm for the imports, it was that are remarkably generous in size; it is strong enough to difficult to spot those destined to survive. However, few peowithstand far more than is being asked of it at present. The ple would have selected the Volvo, a scaled-down 1948 Ford block is much roomier than before, and at the present bore with a smallish 4-cyl engine, as a likely candidate. The Volvo size of 3.31 in. there is no crowding. Water completely surwas too dated in appearance, and embodied little in interestrounds each cylinder, and that minimizes thermal distortion. i ng technical features. Far-out engineering was getting most An interesting feature carried over from previous Volvo enof the play in those days (as is often true now) and the comgines is thermosiphon cooling for the cylinder block. This pletely straightforward Volvo drew little notice. Neverthegives a very rapid warm-up around the cylinders, and that reduces bore wear-which is heaviest when the cylinder-wall l ess, after the tides receded in 1960, Volvo was among those which had found a solid and satisfied following of American temperature is below the dew-point of the corrosive vapors buyers. generated in the combustion process. In its original form, the Volvo had the same "1948 Ford The cylinder head is blessed with valves and porting that bodywork" of the present 544, but was somewhat different would do justice to a racing engine. All of the ports are sep-
arate, and the inlets have inserted rings that perfectly match the manifolding to the ports. The engine is equipped with a pair of SU carburetors. The compression ratio is only 8.5:1, but-oddly enough-at the specified spark setting, the engine would not run on regular-grade fuels without some pinging. Prior to the change of engines, Volvo had redesigned the old 3-speed transmission into an all-synchro, 4-speed unit: a change that was much welcomed. However, the extra gear was crowded in at some expense in strength, and there were some instances where owner exuberance resulted in the need for repairs. Concurrently with the B-18 engine, Volvo designed and developed an all-new 4-speed transmission with a greater torque capacity and an absolutely unbeatable synchromesh on all forward gears. The gear lever, a long stalk growi ng up out of the transmission tunnel and inclined back to bring the knob within easy reach, is unchanged. It would be nice (and much appreciated by all of us here) if Volvo would use the transmission extension provided on the P-1800 to bring the lever mounting back nearer the driver, thereby shortening the lever itself, and reducing the "throw" required. Only detail changes, and exceedingly minor ones at that, have been made in the 544's chassis since its introduction. The front wheels are carried on unequal-length A-arms, and a very light and precise cam-and-roller steering is used. The rear axle, which has hypoid-type gears, is located by trailing links and a transverse track rod. Coil springs and telescopic dampers are used all around. All of the other Volvos have gone over to disc brakes at the front wheels, but the 544 retains 9-in. drum brakes. Con. sequently, the 544's braking performance is not as good as the others', but it is still quite good. Our braking tests produced a strong odor of scorched lining, but no perceptible fade. One of the more attractive features of the 544 is its sturdy and rattle-free unit-constructed body. Window area is a bit li mited, as the posts are quite thick, and the styling is neither contemporary nor classic-beautiful, but the use of heavygauge sheet steel, and a lot of it, renders the 544 nearly i ndestructible. In the interest of making the passengers as bash-resistant as the car, Volvo has developed a seat-belt that is one of the best. It is a strap that starts on the floor, leads across the lap
to a latch-fitting on the drive tunnel, then goes up and across the chest, and then back to an anchor on the window post. On the new 544, the instrumentation has been changed to bring it more into line with modern practice, and padding has been added along the top of the dash. The speedometer is now one of those creeping horizontal-line contrivances, and while it may look better than the previous round instrument, it is by no means as readable. The end of the thermometer line is cut on a sharp angle, and one never knows whether to read the point, middle or heel of the slanted end. In checking speedometer error, we used the middle; the error was moderate at that point. The circa-1948 bodywork of the 544 makes for a rather
The Volvo's lines are dated, but not entirely unattractive.
Nicely grouped and clearly labeled controls and instruments.
Accessibility is a requirement that has been fully met.
narrow interior, but there is adequate shoulder room, and a lot of head room. This is one of the few imports that one can drive while wearing a hat-if that matters. Leg room has been supplied unstintingly, but the area around the pedals is a trifle narrow for comfort. The seats are well contoured, and the placement of the controls, relative to the seats, makes this rather a nice car for long trips--much better, in fact, than many another car with nominally more posh interior. The upholstery is all done in a durable and rich-looking polyvinyl plastic, and there are a lot of nice small touches: such as an ash tray at each end of the back seat and back windows that pivot out for ventilation. Everything, except a radio, is included in the basic price of the car-and that includes a ventiRather limited visibility astern.
l ation and heating system that really does the job as it should. Trunk room is good by import standards; fair as compared to most U.S.-built compacts: adequate, in any case, for the average family on the average trip (as any married man knows, there can never be enough space). At the other end of the car, room has been provided around the engine to make routine service less bother than is so often the case. Above all, the Volvo 544 is a practical car. Its relatively light weight and small overall size, combined with what is really a very good chassis, make it a pleasure to drive, but its most valuable attributes are economy and durability. True, it cannot match the real midgets for mileage, but it does not have their lackluster performance or limited load capacity, either. If the Volvo has a single most-attractive feature, it is sturdiness and overall quality. There is nothing slap-dash or flimsy anywhere on the car, and this is, in our opinion, more than enough to compensate for any lack of sheer glamour.
Trunk space is well provided.
ROAD & TRACK
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