8. 9. 10. 11.

12. 13. 14. 15.
and tin it for about.25 inch [6mm] and then trim it down to this length. (b) Stripping back the inner by about 1/16 inch (2mm) and tin the inner conductor. Solder the screen of the coax to the earth track so that it will present the inner conductor very close to or touching the free leg of the capacitor. Now clamp this coax cable into position using the cable tie (as mentioned in 5 above) to secure it. Solder the inner conductor to the free end of the capacitor Orientate the radio so that the front panel is facing you and looking into the radio from the top, thread the free end of the coax to the bottom, by way of gap between the main pcb and the case at the back, right hand side (near the two white connector plugs) Tuck the coax under the big choke (the thing that looks like a transformer). BE CAREFUL not to put any strain on the coax. Leave a little slack. now turn the radio upside down and orientate it so that the dial is facing your right. The coax should be poking up at the left hand side nearest you! To use the "MPX" jack socket as the access point:Identify the 3 mounting pins of the MPX jack. They are 2 5/8 inch [65mm] from the edge facing you, of the main pcb. The pin on the left is the earth (ground) pin. The centre if the "live" pin and the right pin is not used electronically (only as a mechanical mounting point and is ignored in this mod) Carefully cut the track leading to the centre "live" pin about half way along its length (This removes the unused "MPX" signal to the jack socket. Prepare the audio coax appropriately and solder the screen to the earth pin and the inner core to the middle pin. Replace the top and bottom covers, making sure that there is no strain on the coax and that it is not being "pinched" by the covers.
IMPORTANT - Add a "MOD NOTE to the inside of the radio and also in the instruction book:q
a small self adhesive label stuck to the metal screen on the underside of the pcb with words to the effect : "21 Jan 98 track cut to remove mpx and coax added to give access to the NFM discriminator output" Similar label on the back denoting the MPX now to be "NFM Discriminator" If you have a circuit diagram, note the change also thereon!!!

Subject: Solution for the FT-1000MP RX-Clarifier Check I found a solution the the "FT-1000MP RX-Clarifier Check" posting of 19-07-1998. The problem is the rotary encoder of the Clarifier function. To smoothen rotation, the manufacturer of this type of encoder, puts some grease into the shaft of the encoder. Due to extensive usage, this lubricant comes into the encoder itself, where it flows between the fixed contact pads and the rotary contacts (you can compare it to the wiper contact of a potmeter). As the lubricant is not electrically conducting, some contact points (representing digital values) are not detected by the digital control. Solution is simple: 1. open TRX (both covers) 2. remove all knobs and dials from frontpanel (only those needed - it'll point itself out) 3. tilt front panel towards you and locate little PCB (printed circuit board) holding the Clarifier encoder 4. loosen connectors + screws and pull out the little board as a whole 5. on the encoder (shaft facing upwards) you see 4 clips; bend them 90 upwards and CAREFULLY pull away the upper part 6. now you see a black disk with metallic contact pads, and in your other hand, you see three brittle springs, all covered with grease. 7. clean both parts thoroughly using Q-tips with alcohol (or something similar not agressive to plastic), but BE CAREFULL not to bend the springs. 8. now assemble everyting back together by following above steps in reverse order, but take care of the springs when closing the encoder! Should work 100% ok! Good luck!
This modification is read 1812 times.
(FT-1000) Out of band TX mod FT-1000
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Remove power and ant. Open case like explained in your "operating manual". Locate four screws attaching frount panel and remove the top screws. loosen the bottom screws. Tilt frount panel forward. On the left side of the radio, remove the plug from power supply to the frount panel. (gray and white wires.) Locate the jumper position 3 on control board. Change the jumper status in position 3. Reassemble radio. Reset CPU (see your OPERATING MANUAL).
73's de Phil, F1LOU @ ON7RC.BT.BEL.EU
This modification is read 2270 times.

This modification is read 1773 times.
(FT-11) Extended transmission range on a Yeasu FT-11R
I have knowlege that this mod works, but take no responsibility for any damage it does to your radio, the legality of this mod, or any other incurred damages. After the mod a FT-11R will have: Recieve: 110.000-135.995 (AM) 136.000-180.000 (FM) Transmit: 136.000-180.000 (FM) Empty Memories and a completely reset radio First, Remove the antenna, battery pack, and pocket clip (if installed) from the radio. Then remove the four black screws from the corners of the main section of the radio, the two black screws from the bottom center section of the main body, and the two silver screws from the bottom of the keyboard section. Now carefully separate the back and front halves of the radio, taking care not to put too much strain on the internal ribbon cable, or loose the small metal strap holder or the battery release button. Once you have opened the radio, carefully remove the metal plate covering the back of the keyboard. Then remove the "AF" pcboard by first removing the two copper screws in the middle of the board, then holding the bottom of the pcboard and the mic/speaker jacks between your thumb and forefinger and pulling straight up. This may take a little force, as you are seperating two connectors. Once you have the "AF" board removed, set it and the connector/keyboard backplane board aside. Now look at the lower left corner of the controller board. You should see the 8 jumpers (they are very small), set up like this:
Top of radio L E F T A B C D o-o o-o o o o-o o o o o o/o o o E F G H I don't know how the jumpers relate to the ones on the schematic, so the letters are just for reference in this article
"-" means a solder jumper, and "/" means resistor
These are the functions of the jumpers that I know of: A- Turns your radio into the euro version (TX between 144.000-146.000) B- ? C- ? D- This is the important one. Gives you extened TX range E- Turns your radio into the 440Mhz version. Not Suggested! F- ? G- ? H- Same as jumper "E" The only jumper that this mod deals with is "D". It currently has a solder jumper across it. Remove the solder across the jumper with really small solder wick or a desoldering station, taking care not to touch any plastic with your soldering iron. Once this solder jumper is removed, you now have extened tx range. Now carefully replace the "AF" board first, and then the connector/keyboard backplane board. Take care to get the copper grounding connector on the side of the mic/speaker jacks well seated. Replace the two copper screws in the middle of the "AF" board, and the two silver screws on the bottom of the keyboard. Replace the battery eject button and strap holder, and then replace the back half of the radio. Replace all the screws, put the battery and antenna back on, and turn the radio on. You should see 144.000 on the screen. Turn the radio off and the hold the MHZ/ and MHZ/ buttons while turning the radio on. You now have the transmit range between 136.000-180.000. As a suggestion, you can store completely different transmit and recieve frequencies in a memory (see manual), so if you store a service frequency in a memory, you can program a legal HAM frequency as the transmit freq. so you never accidently transmit on an illegal frequency. Another neat feature that I have found on these radios is the "Clone" feature. You can transfer all memories from one FT11R to another FT-11R. First, make a cable using two male stereo 1/8" connectors, and connecting the top(gound) and middle conductors of the plugs straight through. Don't connect the tip conductors together though. Plug this cable into the earphone jacks of the two radios, and on each radio, hold down the "FM" button while turining it on. You should see every character flashing on the screen. Now, on the radio which you wish to recieve the memory contents from the other radio, press the MHZ/ button. You should see "RX CLN" on the screen. Then on the radio which is to send it's memory contents, press the MHZ/ button. "TX CLN" should appear on the screen for about 5 seconds, then it should return to the flashing screen state. The recieving radio should now be in normal operating mode. Turn both radios off, and remove the cable. That's it. This function overwrites all of the recieving radio's mem contents, and copies everything from memories to pager codes to the status of the light. WARNING: The instant that you hit the MHZ/, your memories are GONE, even if the transfer is unsuccessful! Also, both radios must have the same jumper settings to successfully complete the cloning process. That's all I know for now! Have fun! Any other questions? Contact me at "ijordan@freenet.fsu.edu" Ian Jordan

This modification is read 908 times.

11-07-2000

(FT-1500) MARS/CAP Modification for the Yaesu FT-1500M.
Remove Cover Locate Microprocessor on Control Head.
___________________________________________________ | | | | | O O O O O O _________ | | | | | | X X X | MP | | | (X=Closed) |_______| | __________________________________________________
Remove the Jumper on JP1001 (#1) Solder Pads JP1002 (#2) & JP1003 (#3) (Pads Closed after Modicication #2 #3 #4)
Close Case & Reset Processor by Holding the Mhz Rev Low D/MR keys while Powering up. Remember it is Illegal to transmit out of band. This Modification is for Informational purposes ONLY. Doing such modifications on your radio may void any warranty and damage your equiptment. Date: 15-08-2000 Subject: Find the 6 pads I struggled from the instructions found on your mod listing trying to find the 6 pads on the Yaesu FT-1500. After taking the unit completely apart and seeing it from a different perspective, I found the pads. They are hidden by a resistor (not shown in drawing submitted). Therefore, to help others not repeat my visual limitation, I have taken a photo to better explain the pad's location. I have reduced the size of the photo to better accomodate its downloading size should you choose to publish it. The one item that is not mentioned is the resistor. It is connected to the pad whose bridge requires removal. It is possible that the newer units have this resistor as a post engineering addition. Someone more technicially inclined than I should probably address this situation and I would be very interesting in their finding - advice, i.e. should the resistor be removed and if not, which side of the pad should it be attached? User comment From: Rick - V31RS
Rick V31RS Date: 22-11-2000 Subject: More info about pads One side of each of the pairs of solder pads is connected to ground. (You can, in fact, see this in the photograph --- the lower pads are directly connected the the PC board's ground plane.) The resistor (which, by the markings, appears to have a value one ohm --- more of a jumper, really) just uses JP1 as a covenient place to make a connection to ground. You can safely move the end of the resistor from JP1 to JP2. Note: The mod disables the "automatic repeater shift" (ARS) feature of the tranceiver. Best Regards, Jeff Date: 12-01-2002 Subject: Newer FT 1500 mods The newer (looks to be 2001 models) have an SMD resistor on pod 1, just completely remove that, continue the mod as above and do reset and it works fine. Worked for me on 2 new FT 1500's Chris Date: 21-02-2002 Subject: ft-1500 User comment From: glen kc5nes User comment From: Chris User comment From: Jeff
The mod. for the FT-1500 caused my radio a few problems on setting the odd/split channel freq.s.I had to add the TX channel in while the channel number was blinking.This is not how the instruckion manual says to add the channel.You still must press the PTT switch also and then press the D/MR button one more time.The radio worked fine after I solved this problem.

Fig 4. Lf-klippern kopplas in genom att ledningen som ar ansluten till A14 flyttas till B6. Flj sedan steg-fr-stegbestrirningen betrffande nycklingen.
Nearby amateurs no longer a problem.
Finally we want to point out that FT225RD to our knowledge is the first factory made transceiver that may allow two amateurs to live as close as 500 meters from each other and use 300W output power (Remark: maximum allowed in Sweden in 1981) without causing interference to each other at a frequency separation of 50kHz and with parallel antennas. During band openings one usually wants to work in the same directions.
The worst case is when the main lobe of one operator points straight into the back lobe of the others antenna. 10 element antennas with 20 dB front to back are assumed. (Compare to table 1 page 11 in RT 1980 no 3.) This requires the looser coupling between the resonant circuit and the transistor in the VCO is sucessful. It will also be nessecary to lower the wideband noise in the transmitter by about 15dB, which is probably not difficult.
This modification is read 755 times.
(FT-227) FT-227R & 9600 baud Packet
Modifying the Yaesu FT227R for 9600 baud operation by James Miller G3RUH 1993 Sep 29 The FT227R "Memoriser" dates from 1977, and was one of the first amateur base/mobile FM radios to use a PLL synthesiser. Power output is 10 watts. Its classic design lends itself well to 9600 baud operation. The synthesised local oscillator tunes from 133.3 - 135.3 MHz in 10 kHz steps and for any particular channel uses the same frequency for both RX and TX. Being unswitched, the synthesiser doesn't chirp when changing from RX to TX. 5 kHz intermediate steps and 600 kHz repeater shift are effected by using other internal crystals selected with the FUNCTION switch. The RX IF chain is at 10.7 MHz (144.0 - 133.3), while the TX modulation is applied to a separate 10.7 MHz crystal oscillator for final output at 133.3 + 10.7 = 144.0 MHz. Reception Notes On the RX side, the IF filtering consists of a 15 kHz 2-pole roofing filter FMT-15A at 10.7 MHz, two ceramic 4 element LFB15 (muRata CFU455E2) ceramic filters at 455 kHz, and the discriminator based on a muRata SFD455S4. The frequency response is some -12 db down at 4800 Hz, and is much too heavy for 9600 baud where -6 db is the target, but is perfect for 4800 baud operation. Most of the damage is done by the ceramic discriminator; changing two resistors partly cures that. Changing the 455 kHz filters to CFU455D2 does the rest, and allows for several kHz of mistuning. You can also change the crystal filter to a 10M30AZ for a slightly better eye, but this is only a marginal improvement and admits some of the adjacent channel. TXEPROM selection 10 or 12 gives the best results. The discriminator output is very low, 20 mv/kHz, so a typical +/-3 kHz deviation signal gives only +/- 60 mv output. (G3RUH's own PCB implementation of the 9600 baud modem will accept from 8 volts down to 10mv before the circuit noisefloor is encountered. Other implementations are noisier.) The existing FT227R audio circuit loads the discriminator with a big kerchunk when a signal is initially received; changing (or removing) capacitor C158 cures that. Transmitter Notes On the TX side varactor D401 directly frequency modulates the oscillator X401 via the screened cable named MOD. This can be disconnected at the mic amplifier output, and 9600 baud audio injected instead. The load impedance is 18k seen through series 1uf capacitor C401. The charging of C401 when the TX is keyed results (even in standard form) in a 10 kHz swoop of TX frequency with a 20 ms time constant which takes about 40 ms to die away. This can (must) be reduced by 50% in amplitude and duration by decreasing the capacitance. Because of this, and only this, the recommended minimum TXDELAY is 50 ms. Extra may be needed to accommodate the distant station. TXAudio drive of 1.2 volts peak-peak gives +/- 3 kHz deviation. Other Notes Although the antenna changeover switching is by PIN diodes, 8 volt power to the TX and RX sections is switched by a miniature G2E style PCB relay. This operates in about 5 ms, but its clicking might annoy. A semiconductor alternative would appeal to some operators, maybe a couple of power JFETs. The radio has a convenient 5-pin 180 DIN socket on the rear panel. This can be re-wired with data audio input and output as per a conventional TNC for a very neat interface. Modifications to Radio

1 Cold Reset of the CPU Board. With the radio upright and your nose pointing at the CPU board, look at the Lower Right Corner of the CPU chip. You will see two parallel SMT resistors. Below them is a screw with possibly a paper washer. To the right is a SMT device (it's a cap) with a pointed end facing Left. Ground that point to the screw or to the case with a flat screwdriver. Awhile doing that, cycle on/off the radio to ensure a good reset. Remove screwdriver and then reassemble radio. Dedicated to: ----- the knuckleheads in Barry Electronics who said it was impossible. ----- Yaesu Tech Support who claimed that there are no RESET circuits in their radios, when their schematic diagrams say otherwise.
This modification is read 1888 times.
(FT-23) Yaesu FT-23R 2m walkie talkie anthology
by Frank Reid, W9MKV1 As the happy owner of several Icom radios, I went to a hamfest intending to buy a new IC-u2AT but my friends talked me into a Yaesu FT-23R instead. I'm glad! Construction: The case is die cast metal (u2AT is plastic) and is well protected against weather except as noted below (see DTMF). The carrying case is rather unattractive, made of odd smelling material; I don't trust its belt loop or Velcro flap closure. I removed the belt loop and cut a slit for the (optional) belt clip. I used a paper punch to round the ends of the slit to prevent tearing. Human Engineering: Yaesu did an excellent job of making a complex radio easy to operate. I especially like the rotary knob which selects presettable channels (10) or tunes in 5 or 10 kHz steps. Six keyboard buttons (one is an alternate function key) control programming and scanning. UP/DOWN keys duplicate the knob's function, and have an alternate 1 MHz "giant step" capability. The keyboard lock function does not affect the rotary switch. Keyboard lock (indicated by an "L" symbol on the display) is remembered when the radio is turned off (good idea!). The FT-23R has odd offset capability. A button above the transmit switch unsquelches the receiver (transmits tone burst on European model). There is no display illuminator, which would be practical with knob tuning; display lights in keyboard controlled rigs are nearly useless when it's too dark to see the keyboard. Audio: Not surprisingly, the tiny flat speaker isn't very loud, and rattles terribly at full volume. Speech from a belt mounted FT-23R is easily drowned out. It fits a shirt pocket, somewhat inconveniently with DTMF2 and large battery installed. It can be secured in a shirt pocket by hand lanyard attached to epaulet of military style shirt, or longer string with sliding cord lock, over the shoulder with loop around opposite armpit. Antenna: Standard BNC connector. The "short rubber duckie" supplied with the radio is more flexible than most similar antennas, and appears very durable. DTMF: The optional Touch ToneTM generator mounts between the radio and battery, plugs into a 4 pin internal socket, and is attached by 4 long screws. It makes the radio about 3/4 inch taller, and 1/8" thicker. Other accessories, e.g., the mobile power adapter, also mount between radio and battery; one envisions a future fully equipped wlakie-talkie 3 feet long! The delicate looking membrane type DTMF keyboard is not sealed around the edges. There could be trouble if it takes water. The DTMF keyboard has neither tactile nor audio feedback, however, an LED lights when a button is successfully pressed. CTCSS: 3 The optional subaudible tone squelch module provides "PL" encode. Actual tone squelch frequency is displayed during programming (nice!). The tiny module ($61) mounts above the battery attachment plate, and does not extend the radio's length. CTCSS modes are "Encode" and "Encode/Decode" but no decode without encode. Memory Cloning: A cable from the earphone jack of one FT-23R to the microphone jack of another transfers memory contents (useful for emergencies). A switch on the bottom of the radio (accessible by removing the battery) puts the radio into clone mode. You cannot reach the clone switch if the DTMF module is installed. Scanning:

This modification is read 1615 times.
(FT-411) FT-411 out of band modification (Software)
I discovered a nice trick to increase its frequency coverage. It is so simple that you don't even have to open your hand held. All you have to do is: 1. Make sure that the power switch is off. 2. press the UP arrow and DOWN arrow together, at the same time (those keys are also called A, and B. and they placed at the upper right side of the keyped) 3. Keep pressing both buttons and turn the power on. Now you can receive 130-174Mhz, and transmit 140-150Mhz. CAUTON: When you do this modification the memories can be erased. Ayhow I think it is not the end, and there are some more options. If you do have some more information about this Hand held, Please leave me a msg with it. Tnx, AVIAD, 4X6TL@4Z4SV
This modification is read 1418 times.
(FT-411) PTT mod for FT-411
Hello, a few days ago i was using my friend's Yaseu FT-411 and found out this neat trick!!! First, a little background. As i'm sure some of you know, Yaseu came out with the popular 411 a few years ago. Just recently, they came out with an "enhanced" model, the 411-E. The only found difference is the frequency lock of the radio. THe 411E has a feature that lets you lock the ptt as well as the frequency. To activate ptt lock on the 411:
Turn radio off Push the 6 button, hold it and turn on the rig while your still holding it. Now, press FM 6, you should see "L". Press FM 6 again, you should see "PTT"(Both L and PTT will appear in the bottem left corner of the lcd display). Congradulations you have installed ptt lock in ur rig. To turn it off, just repeat those steps. Mike-N2LPD @ N2IMC.NJ.USA.NA
This modification is read 1355 times.
(FT-411) Yaesu VHF mod for commercial splits
Start by setting your rig to low power and by hooking up a dummy load. This mod may take several attempts, and you don't want to be slapping a 50 watt signal at a 600K offset to your served agency's allotted frequency! THAT might bring down wrath from any number of sources !! All Yaesu gear I have used has 2 buttons or functions that we will use for this mod: a function button, usually labelled "f" and a button that allows you to tune within a given memory. This button puts an underscore beneath the memory number. I will call it "mr", as that is its label on my 470 and 411. Program into memory the receive frequency. That is to say, the commercial repeater output frequency. Put in any tone encoding required as well. Store this memory. Set the repeater offset to display a - or + depending on which direction your transmit frequency is. Preserve that as part of the frequency memory too. Try not to transmit. You have just saved a commercial frequency with a 600K split at this point. Press the "mr" button to display an underscore at the memory channel location. Enter the transmit frequency at this point. All you are doing is adjusting the memory tuning, and we are about to lock it in. Press the (f)button for 1/2 second or until the memory channel number is flashing. Now, while the memory channel number is flashing, momentarily press and hold the PTT button ( press to talk ),then simultaneously press the (f) button again to lock your new split. This may take several tries to get the timing right. You may have to press the "mr" button again to remove the underscore from beneath the memory channel number. Look for both the - and + repeater split indicators to be displayed. That is your sign that your mod has been successful. carefully test your new split.

Mick <-------------IIIII------------> Ear. 100Kohm
This is the way I did it, others have talked tohave used either just a resistor like me or a small capacitor, or a combination. On my radio, this value of resistor gave me a good range of transmitted audio levels by adjusting the volume control. The other small problem is that the radio automatically selects low power on transmit in this mode. This is probably because of the lack of a real duplexer.
(FT-470) Sensitive for the FT-470, from 130-180, to 430-500 MHz
Empfindlichkeit FT470 MHz V 135 0,0,0,0,0,0,9
2,4 8,90 0,21 0,21 0,21 0,21 0,24 0,31 0,5 0,9 1,2 1,3 2,9 6,6,9 14
Signalgenerator (Marconi 2022) an Antennenbuchse. Am Lautsprecherausgang der Funke wird die NF-Spannung (FMRauschen) ohne Signal auf 100mV eingestellt. Dann wird das unmodulierte HF-Signal im Pegel soweit erhht, bis das Rauschen um 20dB zurckgegangen ist. Vorteil dieser Methode: Sie ist uerst einfach durchzufhren. Allerdings knnen mit dieser Methode die Propagandadaten der Prospekte nicht erreicht werden weil hier ohne Modulation und ohne CCITT-Filter gemessen wird. Zum Vergleich mit anderen Funken geht dies aber hervorragend und der Empfindlichkeitsverlauf ber die Bandbreite lt sich sehr schn darstellen wenn man die Mewerte in z.B. Excel graphisch auswertet.
This modification is read 1019 times.
(FT-470) YAESU FT470 cross-band repeater
If you turn on the radio with the RPT key depressed, the radio becomes a crossband repeater. Dial up two frequencies you want to crosslink (be sure to pay attention to transmit offsets, if any), turn the radio off. Depress the RPT key while turning it back on. The tone encode/decode flags and the -+ flags will be flashing. When either band's squelch opens, the other band is moved into the primary frequency display and the transmitter keys. Note that the power output is decreased to LOW power. I made up an audio interface, using a mini and sub-mini phone plug. Tie the grounds together, and connect the center pins through a 0,01 uF cap. and 47K resistor in series. Adjust the volume control to about the 11 O'clock position. It work for both simplex cross-band and using a repeater on one band and a simplex freq on the other band. You do have to wait for the repeater to drop before you transmit on the simplex freq.

This will switch your unit to BAND A1 (USA), ARS will work again ! Disclaimer: Don't TX and RX at frequencies that you are not allowed to! I do not guarantee the validity of this information, as Yaesu may change programming or hardware so that some of the techniques in this document may cease to function. I am not
responsible if these instructions damage your rig in some way. All I can say is that I have performed the following procedures to my unit, and I am quite pleased with the results. Your mileage may vary, etc. Some newsgrups messages.
Subject: Re: FT50R Software MOD's From: Ingra-Beton@t-online.de (Ingra-Beton) Date: 26 Mar 1997 08:21:18 GMT Just e short explanation of the Message I've send: It is a Method to do any MOD to your FT50R. The procedure is very simple and fast done: 1. You make a Template from your FT50R 2. Change 3 Bytes in the Template 3. Upload the Template to your FT50R So you can switch to any BAND, you don't have do Hardware interventions or similar staff. If you want do return the FT50R to its Original state, just upload the old (unmodified).TPL to the Unit. It is also a solution to Upload your old.TPL files to the Unit, (those files your are not able to Upload after making Hardware MOD's) Indi. PS. I need various.TPL Files from different FT50R's for my further investigations, please send me a couple of.TPL files - The Original - After making same MOD's - any other (I still need the 1.04) ======== To: mgrand@mbi.net Newsgroups: rec.radio.amateur.equipment Subject: FT50 Freeband From: Ingra-Beton@t-online.de (Ingra-Beton) Date: 2 Apr 1997 07:07:40 GMT > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mark Grandstaff wrote: O.K. I read through all the info on mods for the FT-50R and am more confused than ever. My goal is to get expanded transmit and expanded receive (freeband) operation. I have a newer model (SN begins 6L12) so I realize that "pulling the plug" won't work to achieve freeband. I assume that the expanded Tx MARS/CAP mod of unsoldering the jumper #1 will work though. In an article submitted by E. Scott Sykes in addition to the jumper modification he suggests unsoldering the resister at location "A" to achieve a freeband state. Is this part of the "pulling the plug method"? What is the purpose of this resister? Is this recommended with the newer radios? It looks as though my best option to get to the freeband state is to first do the MARS/CAP mod as described by Bill Childers (unsolder jumper #1) then follow the software suggestions outlined by Ingra-Beton (3/26/97). Any comments? -Mark Grandstaff

mgrand@bmi.net

4. Here's the filter after installation. It should look like this.
5. You can go ahead and put the top panel and shoulder strap brackets back on and turn the rig back on. Press the "F" key and hold it for half a second to take you into menu mode. Turn the SEL dial until you get to menu #38. It should say "OP FILTER" and "OFF" just above that. Rotate the main tuning dial until you see "CW" (not "OFF" or "SSB"). Important note - as you go through the "SSB" choice, you will notice that the rig switches to the newly installed CW filter - DON'T PANIC, all is okay. This threw me for a while until I understood what was going on. Make sure that menu #38 is set to "CW" (ignore what the receiver actually does!) and then press the "F" key for half a second again to exit menu mode. 6. You're almost done. You will probably panic at this time (as I did!) because as you switch through the modes from USB/LSB/CW/CWR etc., the rig seems to be stuck in SSB filter mode. There's one more thing you have to do to get the CW filter working. Check out page 14 of your FT-817 Operating Manual - number 7 at the bottom right of the page you will see the "C-Key" setting for "NAR". You have to set this in order for the receiver to switch to the narrow CW filter when you switch the rig to CW or CWR modes. To do this, first put the rig into CW or CWR mode then tap the "F" key once quickly. The FUNC Keys menu items for the A/B/C pushbuttons should appear. Rotate the SEL control until you see "IPO ATT NAR" over the A/B/C buttons. Then press the "C' pushbutton once to set the filter to Narrow. A small right-pointing arrow should appear and the rig should switch to the CW filter - you should hear a marked difference in the receiver noise "tone". 7. That's it. You can swap between the SSB and CW filters anytime by revisiting the FUNC Key menu and toggling the NAR function. How does the filter sound? I did some preliminary tests with my HP8642B signal generator - the receiver is very sensitive indeed. The CW filter is an ABSOLUTE JOY to behold.it has a superb frequency response - very very sharp skirts - great stopband. WOW!!!! I'm blown away by it.I'll have some real measurements to back up my first impressions for y'all sometime soon. It's late, so I tried it on the bottom end of 40m - sounds REAL NICE!! Folks, if you are going to do CW seriously with the FT-817, you will simply HAVE to get the YF-122C filter option. It's a must have IMO.

This modification is read 3794 times.
(FT-847) How to modify FT-847 with full TX-RANGE on HF
From: DO5ARD @ DB0ERF.#THR.DEU.EU (Sven) It's correct: to close the jumpers 1,2,3 and opening the others ? The second method sayed:
pad 1 is already shorted with a chip resistor - NEGATIV ON MY TRX ! short pad 2 and 3 with solder. check pad 6 and if it has a chip resistor remove it.
Here are my factory-settings in FT-847: pad 1 = open pad 2 = shorted with a chip resistor pad 3 = open pad 4 = open pad 5 = shorted with a chip resistor pad 6 = i'm not shure if open or closed, only a big solder-point I'll send also a foto of my factory-jumper-settings
I'm happy about any detailed information !
This modification is read 4067 times.

26-09-1999

(FT-847) SSTV interface width PTT keying for FT-847
Author: Jim Barber N7CXI Original circuit by Jim Barber N7CXI Redraw v 3.1 by VA3JDH. Updated Jan. 16 1999
Note. Due to the low voltage output levels of the PKT and Data IN/OUT ports, it is recommended to use the EXT SPKR port as output to the sound blaster. This will ensure proper SSTV signal triggering and synchronization.
This modification is read 2823 times.

09-02-2000

(FT-847) External RX Input Modifcation for the Yaesu FT-847
Author: Guenter Koellner - DL4MEA - dl4mea@amsat.org.MODIFICATION.NET

(C) DL4MEA 09/1998

17.09.98 Creation
D: Beim Einsatz des FT847 mit einem externen Vorverstrker und Endstufen ist es zum Schutz des Vorverstrkers
empfehlenswert, eine doppelte Kabelfhrung aufzubauen. Damit wird in der gesamten Anlage nur ein einziges Koaxrelais bentigt, und der Vorverstrker ist definitiv vor Sende-HF geschtzt. Die hier vorgestellte Modifikation erlaubt es jederzeit den FT847 wieder im Normalbetrieb einzusetzen.
E: If the FT847 is used together with an external mast-mounted preamp, it is suggested to run two coax cables from the
mast to the shack. Not only that you save costs for a several coax relays, but also you protect the preamp from any TX power. The solution described here allows anytime to use the FT847 in the normal way.

input. In the past, TR switches were known to cause TVI but with cable tv, there is little to be concerned with. It's a great system. E-mail me if you have any questions. Steve Ellington
This modification is read 1273 times.
(FTH-7010) FTH-7010 talakts 9600 Bd-ra
This modification can also be found on http://ha5ob.sch.bme.hu/fth7010.htm
This modification is read 286 times.
(GC-1000) Upgrading a conventional rotator controller PA0PLY
Author: Jan PA0PLY - jk@comtestnl.com.MODIFICATION.NET
Introduction Only after almost 25 years of service, my antenna rotator system died under bad circumstances. Heavy winds and much larger load of 8 long yagis for 432MHz were too much for the mechanical construction. A new rotator was selected but it did not fulfil the todays requirements. State of art upgrading was badly needed.
Photo 1.: Large EME array for 432MHz. Selection The major goal to be achieved is an mechanical strong motor gear with little backlash and sufficient torque capabilities to withstand the windload. From the available table, my antennas would generate a windload of about 0.6m. Unfortunately this figure is not the only determining figure to select a rotator system. Large arrays of antennas will cause a lot of stress to the mechanical parts. For this reason I selected the YEASU G-1000C, to handle the next 25 years of service.
Band (MHz) 28 14/21 14/21/432
Elements 3-elements 5-elements 3-elements 2-el Quad 3-elements
Area (m) 0.7 1.7 0.45 0.3 0.3
4-elem trapped 0.5 4-elem trapped 0.5 4-elements 6-elements 10-elements 12-elements 0.25 0.37 0.2 0.06
10-elem x 4 x 2 2.0 12-elem x 4 x 2 0.6
Table 1: Typical wind loading areas for common antennas Specifications The outside unit is a waterproof die-cast aluminium enclosure. It takes advantage of a quiet, reliable gear reduction braking system. The inside unit is equipped with an indicator needle system to indicate the direction of the antennas Wind load: 2.2m Rotation torque: 800 kg/cm Backlash: 1 degree Rotation time: 55 sec. Upgrade requirements. Actually I was little disappointed after initial set-up of the rotator system in the shack. On the indicator unit, the minimum readable indication was written to be 5 degrees only. Even worse turns the fact that the indicator needle kept on moving while the outside unit already stopped. In my application this is unacceptable. Besides this such a type of indicating originates from the 70s, rather then state of art technique. Next to the indicating problem, the speed of 55 sec for one 360 degree turn should be reduced for better handling larger loads, such as my antennas. Preferable would be an adjustable rotation speed. An optional computer interface would be ideal.

This modification is read 461 times.