Chevrolet Cavalier 2000
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier 2 & 4 Door Coupe & Sedan Carpet kit . Our replacement 2000 CHEVROLET CAVALIER carpet kits are Cut and Sewn for the early models or precisely Molded Carpet sets for later models. Carpet kits are available in their original material and color.
Part Number: 11479-00
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Chevrolet Cavalier 2000 CAR, size: 2.6 MB
Chevrolet Cavalier 2000
2000 Chevy Cavalier
User reviews and opinions
|mike_d||6:49am on Saturday, July 10th, 2010|
|Easy peasy Very easy to set up. Came with printed simple-to-follow instructions. Had it set up and working in under half a minute. Excellent Almost identical to the one I bought as a replacement at the dealership for $105.|
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Bomz Racing 2000-Up Chevy Cavalier/Sunfire Coilover Kit Installation 1. Raise and suitably support the car. 2. Remove the wheels and tires. 3. FRONT: Remove the two bolts that secure the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle by removing the two nuts with a 21mm socket. 4. Drive the bolts out of the knuckle carefully to protect the threads on the bolts. 5. Remove the two nuts and one bolt from the top of the strut tower with a 13mm socket. 6. Remove the strut assembly from the car. It may be necessary to push the control arm downwards to allow the strut to clear the suspension for removal. 7. Secure the strut assembly in a strut compressor and remove the top nut on the strut rod with a 21mm socket to disassemble the strut assembly. Note the assembly of the strut paying particular attention to the top strut mount and order of the pieces removed. 8. Remove the rubber isolator pads from the spring seats on the strut body. 9. Remove the boot from the upper spring mount and retrieve the yellowish colored bumpstop cushion from inside. 10. Cut the bump-stop cushion in half. 11. Remove the plastic boot retainer cap from the strut body by twisting it off. 12. Remove the bearing assembly from the upper spring mount and remove the white Teflon washer from it. 13. Install the front (short) threaded coilover sleeve onto the strut body with the threaded setscrew holes down. This will place them in an area where they will not interfere with the adjusting nuts, below the bottom of the lower factory spring perch. Make sure that the adjusting nut with the step in it is at the top of the assembly. Install and tighten 2 short setscrews in the threaded holes accessible by a hex wrench. Note: for maximum drop, it is necessary to cut this factory spring perch off to allow clearance for the adjusting nuts to travel to the bottom of the threaded sleeve. In this case, the sleeve should be installed with the set-screw holes upwards. Do not cut the perch off completely flush with the strut tube body as the threaded sleeve needs a good, solid ridge to sit on to support the assembly. 14. Place the front coil spring onto the sleeve. 15. Insert the smaller half of the shortened bump-stop onto the strut piston rod, inside of the spring. 16. Place the bearing over/around the step in the top hat orienting it the way it was installed in the factory mount, and install the upper strut mount. 17. Install the top nut onto the rod and tighten it. The assembly should be able to be tightened and the rod should not be depending solely on the rubber isolator in the top mount to be restrained. If the nut runs down the threaded rod end too far, something is installed incorrectly. It should only go on the same distance as it was when the assembly was stock. Verify that the rod is captured above and below the top strut mount. Otherwise the rod could come through and contact the hood. 18. Reinstall the assembly into the car reversing the removal steps.
19. REAR: Remove the bottom shock bolt with an 18mm socket. 20. Remove the nut from the upper strut mount inside the trunk with a 13mm socket or wrench. 21. Remove the two bolts from the upper strut mount inside the top of the wheel well with a 10mm socket. 22. Remove the assembly from the car. 23. Secure the strut/shock assembly in a strut compressor and remove the top nut with a 15mm socket. 24. Disassemble the strut/shock. 25. Remove the small, machined washer that is pressed onto the shock piston rod by tapping it off. Do not damage it and save it for reuse in reassembly. 26. Remove the boot and bump-stop and cut the bump stop in half. 27. Remove the spring perch and dust cap from the shock body by driving the perch towards the rod end of the shock. It is just a lightly pressed-on fit. 28. Install three of the fattest O-rings from the O-ring kit onto the shock body and roll them over and below the enlarged ridge in the shock body that the perch was sitting against. 29. Space them about.50 apart. These will stabilize the threaded sleeve when installed. 30. Make sure that the stepped adjusting nut is facing the top of the sleeve (small hole end). Install the long setscrews about 1/3 to way into the rear (long) threaded sleeve and install the sleeve onto the shock body. 31. Press the sleeve down over the O-rings, rolling them inside of the sleeve and down until the underside of the top surface of the sleeve contacts the top of the shock tube. This supports the sleeve on the shock body. The O-rings are necessary to stabilize the sleeve. 32. Tighten the setscrews down snugly onto the shock body. 33. Install the rear coil spring and the smaller half of the cut-down bump stop onto the assembly. 34. Install the machined, previously pressed-on washer onto the shock rod. 35. Install the upper strut mount onto the shock rod and secure with the nut and flat washer. 36. Set the adjusting nuts on the sleeves a certain distance from the bottom of the sleeve and repeat on the other side so the coilovers will be adjusted equally when done. About half way puts the rear at or just below the level of the front. 37. Reinstall the dust boot (if it originally had one) and install the strut assembly back into the car, reversing the removal steps.
38. Double check your assembly torques. 39. Check everything periodically and once you get your heights dialed in, lock the adjusting nuts together. Do not over-tighten them together. 40. Have an alignment shop check the car. The toe and camber will likely be changed and possibly out of spec.
It helps to grease the areas that pivot in the front assemblies every oil change or so to help prevent popping and creaking that sometimes occurs with coilovers. Road grime and dirt gets in there and starts to lock everything up so the coil spring will bind then pop when you turn the wheels. This is normal but some good preventative maintenance keeps it to a minimum. This situation is considered normal with these styles of coilovers and will not be considered a valid cause for return. *These instructions have been created to assist you in the installation of these coilovers. The manufacturer does not supply installation instructions so these instructions have been written as a guideline based upon previous installation experiences and provided as a courtesy to you. These instructions DO NOT guarantee in any way, shape, or form, the installation, function, or any liability for damages resulting from the installation of these coilovers. ISP cannot be held liable for any such items by providing these instructions to you. ISP cannot be held responsible for incorrect or improper installation procedures or misuse of this product. You are installing these coilovers at your own risk.
** Bomz Racing is not responsible for any damage to the vehicle if the installation in not done by professional mechanic
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