simply PERFECT seams

More stitches, more features, more stunning techniques to inspire and enhance your creativity.

1150MDC

009DCC
Exclusively from Bernina. Micro Thread Control (mtc) lets you fine tune your stitches with incredible ease. for the best looking seams you ever saw. Featured on the M series sergers.

www.berninausa.com

The M series two amazing sergers with the exclusive and patented* micro thread control.
Sew, cut and neaten in a single operationin overlock, chain or coverstitch. Innovative features make Bernina sergers delightfully easy to use and ensure professional quality down to the last stitch. The M series of sergers allow you to sew creatively with unrivalled ease. Youll be inspired by the wide range of stitches and enjoy the wealth of deluxe features that make serging an even greater pleasure.

from loose

to lovely
with a flick of the wrist.
Micro Thread Control (mtc). Only from Bernina. Micro Thread Control fine tunes over-edge thread length at the turn of a knob for tight, clean results like this. Its not just more precise, its easier. Previously, to correct overhanging thread loops, you had to reset cutting width and both looper tensions. Now, one twist of the mtc knob makes a smooth, tight seam, and makes it easy to create a professional finish as you move from fabric to fabric. These edges are so perfect, you have to see them to believe them. Up to 24 stitch variations. Overlock, chainstitch, coverstitch, flatlock, rolled hem, all at your fingertips, all crisp and clean. A simple threading system. The Bernina lay-in system lets you thread quickly and directly and the automatic lower-looper threading system makes it simpler, too. Stitch widths up to 9 mm. Even lets you sew together loose knits, such as hand-knitted sweaters.
The 1300MDC and 1150MDA have a host of special features designed to make your sewing experience simpler, smarter, and more creative.

1150 Auto

Auto threader For 2 needles. (1150 MDA)
Needle threader Easy-to-use manual tool. (1300MDC only) Rolled-hem lever Simply move the rolled-hem lever to switch effortlessly to a rolled-hem stitch and back again with no need to change the stitch plate or presser foot. Bernina exclusive.
LCD screen The clear display tells you both personal and default basic settings of stitch variations. You can also read recommended basic thread tension, and save personal settings. (1300MDC only)
Differential feed Stepless differential feed ensures wave-free seams in knits and prevents puckering in fine fabricsat the same time allowing deliberate gathering. Patented swing-out presser foot Simply swing the foot out to the side to give yourself plenty of space for easy threading and hassle-free needle change. Bernina exclusive.
Handwheel position indicator Easy, ergonomic operation. Find the ideal threading position for the needles and the lower looper quickly. Bernina exclusive. Front foot lift system The front foot lift gives an additional lift to the front of the presser foot, making it possible to accurately position multiple layers of fabric and bulky projects such as polar fleece, hand-knit sweaters and homedecorating fabrics underneath it.
Accessories in the looper cover Here youll find the most commonly used accessories, neatly arranged and right at hand.
The Bernina lay-in threading system Lets you thread quickly and directly and the automatic lower-looper threading system makes it simpler, too. Micro Thread Control Thanks to , its finally possible to directly set the over-edge thread length for the perfect seam at the twist of a knob. Bernina exclusive.
Safety switch The safety switch is activated as soon as you open the looper cover or the fabric support plate, thus preventing the accidental operation of the serger.

Professional knife drive from above Provides the greatest, most robust cutting force. Even thick fabrics wont deflect the upper knifeso all fabric edges can be trimmed safely and professionally.
Swing-out upper-knife arm The upper-knife arm can be quick-released effortlessly at the press of a button to provide more room. This is particularly advantageous when youre working in coverstitch mode or do not wish to trim the fabric edge. (1300MDC only)
Elasticator Foot The elasticator foot guides and stretches the elastic. Ideal for lingerie, swimwear, sportswear, home textiles, and more.
Blindstitch Foot The blindstitch foot features an adjustable lateral guide plate that takes the hard work out of sewing blind hems. Excellent for blind hemming, flatlocking and heirloom techniques.
Coverstitch Foot This special foot can be fitted for absolutely flawless coverstitch seams. Especially for seams, hems, bindings and decorative applications. (1300MDC only)
Versatility, simplicity, practicality and creativity.
The Bernina 800DL and 700D are especially versatile machines with practical features that make them easy to use. Whether youre working with the finest silk and satin, robust denim, thick fleece or stretch fabrics, these Bernina sergers give you the sewing results youve always dreamed of. They bring you features such as easily adjustable thread tension, thirteen stitch variations with 2, 3 or 4 threads, the Bernina lay-in threading system, the rolled hem lever and ergonomically placed differential feed and stitch-length controls. You can sew much more quickly, easily and skillfully whether youre doing creative threadwork, hard-wearing seams on stretch and woven fabrics, decorative rolled hems or gathering. The Bernina 009DCC is the ideal partner for cover and chainstitching. It brings you professional, 5-mm wide coverstitching, the standard in ready-made clothing. You can coverstitch beautiful, decorative seams or flat, joining seams for smooth comfort. Plus, gathered seams and simple, elegant hems with chainstitch. And temporary basting. All, of course, with Bernina quality, precision, and ease of use.
Sergers used to be thought of as just tools for smooth seams and finished edges. Bernina quality and innovation have made them into highly flexible tools for enhancing all sorts of garments, quilts and home-decoration projects. So, creative sewers now use them for many stunning techniquesbeautiful results that just cant happen without a serger. Nancy Bednar Author of Creative Serging
11 MDC MDA 0D 70 L 0D 00 9D CC

Stitch variations

4-thread coverstitch, wide (5.0 mm)
Durable, flat stitch for hems and seams in elastic materials. Use for flat seams, finishes with sandwiched or sewn-on elastic, and elastic binding. For the decorative topstitching of seams or elastic straps; may also be used with decorative thread in the looper (wrong-seam-side up).

3-thread coverstitch, wide (5.0 mm)/narrow (2.5mm) 1300MDC wide (5.0 mm) 009DCC
2-thread chainstitch seam, top and bottom
Having limited stretch, the chainstitch is ideal for fairly firm-woven fabrics, stabilizing seams, and bindings, as well as decorative effects in finer fabrics for garments and home textiles. May also be used for decorative seams with decorative thread in the looper (wrong-seam-side up).
5-thread safety seam, wide
The two different parallel seams and the limited elasticity of the chainstitch make this extremely hard-wearing seam ideally suited for firm-woven fabrics such as jeans, uniforms, jackets, and more. A highly elastic seam in lengthways- and crossways-stretch fabrics such as Lycra and cotton-Lycra.
4-thread overlock seam with wooly nylon thread and built-in safety seam
An elastic, highly durable seam for knits such as jersey, machine knits and tricot from any natural or synthetic fibers, as well as for hand-knits. For seams in fine- to medium-weight cotton, viscose, silk or synthetic fabrics such as batiste, crpe de chine, poplin, satin, and more.
3-thread overlock seam, wide/narrow
For neatening edges, seams, hems and facings; suitable for all fabrics. A soft, elastic seam for fine knits. For decorative and quickly sewn edge finishes, as well as effect seams in fairly firm-woven fabrics, fluffy or furry materials and sturdy knits.
3-thread super-stretch (with wooly nylon thread) 3-thread flatlock seam, wide/narrow (with decorative thread) 3-thread rolled seam
A highly elastic seam in lengthways- and crossways-stretch fabrics such as Lycra and cotton-Lycra. For a flat, decorative seam in woven fabrics. Excellent for patchwork.
A light seam for the finest silk, cotton or synthetic fiber jerseys. Perfect for sewing on or inserting lace. An attractive, quickly sewn edge finish for all fine fabrics.

3-thread rolled hem

2-thread overlock seam, wide/narrow (edgewrapped with wooly nylon thread) 2-thread flatlock seam, wide/ narrow (with decor. thread) 2-thread rolled hem
Fine for all fabrics. For neatening edges, seams, hems and facings, reversible edge finishes. Use for firm-woven fabrics, fluffy or furry materials and sturdy knits.
A flat, elastic, decorative seam for knits and woven fabrics. Ideal for patchwork. Edge finish on hems, ruffles and flounces in fine- and light-woven fabrics or jerseys. Excellent for inserting lace in fine batiste.

Total Stitch Count

Deluxe features and threading aids
Needle threader Automatic lower-looper and chain-looper threader for machines with chainstitch Swing-out presser footA Bernina Exclusive Handwheel position indicatorA Bernina Exclusive Color-coded threading paths and diagram in looper cover Lay-in threading system Automatic tension release when presser foot lifted Differential-feed and stitch-length setting LCD display of the recommended settings Saving of personal settings on the LCD Accessories in looper cover Sewing light Safety switch activated when covers opened

1300MDC

yes yes yes yes yes yes yes right yes yes yes yes yes

1150MDA

automatic yes yes yes yes yes yes right yes yes yes
yes yes yes yes right yes -

yes yes yes left yes -

yes yes yes right yes -

Technical Specifications

mtc thread controlA Bernina Exclusive
Overlock seam width Knife drive from above Two-step lift Front foot liftA Bernina Exclusive Three-step presser foot pressure Rolled-hem lever built into stitch plate Sewing speeds of up to 1500 SPM
yes 39 mm yes 6+2 mm yes yes yes yes
37 mm yes 5+2 mm stepless yes yes

5+2 mm stepless yes

Standard and optional accessories
Exclusive combination presser foot for overlock and chainstitch, with built-in tape guide Standard serger presser foot with built-in tape guide Standard serger presser foot Coverstitch Compensating Foot Chainstitch Foot Set of needles (5) Special coverstitch needle set (3 needles) Waste collector for excess fabric Seam guide Blindstitch Foot Elasticator Foot Multi-Purpose Foot Cording Foot Gathering Foot Gathering Attachment Coverstitch Hem Guide Upper-looper converter Tools and accessories in separate bag Dust cover yes yes yes yes yes optional yes yes optional optional optional optional optional yes yes yes yes yes yes optional yes yes optional optional optional optional yes yes yes optional yes yes optional optional optional optional optional optional optional optional yes yes yes optional yes yes optional optional optional optional optional optional optional optional optional yes yes yes optional yes optional optional optional optional optional optional yes yes
No one supports the creative sewer like a Bernina Dealer.
SB06 BER-6022 6/Bernina of America *Patent Pending

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA

BERNINA 700D/800DL

700D/800DL

OWNERS WORKBOOK
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA 1/04/02 700D/800DL/1

Table of Contents

SECTION A Pages 3-17 Lets Start With The Basics SECTION B Pages 18-37 4-Thread Techniques SECTION C Pages 38-59 3-Thread Techniques SECTION D Pages 60-74 Lets Experiment
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA 1/04/02

700D/800DL/2

OWNERS WORKBOOK Section A Lets Start With The Basics

700D/800DL/3

SECTION A Lets Start With The Basics

Machine Set-Up

Identifying the serger parts Owners manual pg__ Attaching the Foot Control and Power Cord Owner's manual pg.____ Assembling thread stand Owner's manual pg.___ Power Switch Owner's manual pg.___ Loopers what are they? Owner's manual pg.___ The Looper Cover Owner's manual pg.___ - Safety feature machine wont sew when the cover is open

Threads

Owner's manual pg.___ Types to use The importance of quality threads

Needles

Owner's manual pg.___ Always start with a new needle Match the needle to the fabric and thread Owner's manual pg.___ Change the needle often; using the needle inserter Loosening/re-tightening needle screws
Threading for Overlock Serging
Owner's manual pg.___ Cone Holders and Spool Caps - Holders used for large cones of serger thread - Turn the cone upside down for the larger based cone threads. - Caps used for normal sewing thread and decorative thread spools Raise the presser foot when threading The threading path Owner's manual pg.___ Use the road map inside the looper cover as a quick reference guide. Threading the first thread guide on all threads Owner's manual pg.___. Lock thread into guide. Threading Order - First Upper Looper (Blue) - Second Lower Looper (Red) - Third Right Needle (Green) - Fourth Left Needle (Yellow) Upper Looper Owner's manual pg.___ Lower Looper Owner's manual pg.___ - 700D Only Rotate the handwheel to bring the looper to the right before using the wire looper threader - 800DL Only Rotate the handwheel to bring the looper to the right before engaging the automatic looper threader Right Needle - Owner's manual pg.___ Left Needle Owner's manual pg.___ MASTERING YOUR BERNINA 1/04/02 700D/800DL/4

Test Sewing

Owner's manual pg.___ Lift the front of the presser foot to place the fabric under it to begin serging. Lift the entire presser foot by the handle at the back when accurate fabric placement is needed. Chain off the fabric

Cleaning and Oiling

Owner's manual pg.___ Clip all threads at the thread guide support. Lift the presser foot to release (open) the thread tension disks. Gently pull threads from serger. Always remove threads in the direction of sewing. If you encounter any resistance, stop and rotate the handwheel slightly to release the threads from the loopers. Open the looper cover; rotate the upper knife up. Using a vacuum cleaner adapter or a 1 cosmetic brush, remove all lint and fluff from the looper, knife and feed dog areas of the machine. Following the oiling guide inside the looper cover, place a drop of oil on each of the two oiling points. Remove old needles and replace them with new. Rotate upper knife down into cutting position.

Replacing the Knives

Owner's manual pg.___ Serger knives cut fabric as it is serged; as with scissors, repeated use can dull them. If knives begin to chew instead of cut, consider replacing the lower knife. If you serge over pins, replce both knives. An authorized BERNINA technician will need to replace the upper knife.

700D/800DL/5

TENSION THEORY Balanced 4-Thread Stitch
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Firm fabric, 6 x 6 80/12 Universal 4 cones of serger thread (yellow, red, green, blue) Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Thread the serger for a 4 thread overlock stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the serger. Set all thread tension levers at 3-5 (normal). Fold the fabric in half to 3 x 6. To begin stitching, lift the front of the presser foot with your right thumb and slide the fabric under the presser foot. Release the tip of the presser foot and begin serging. Serge to the end of the fabric. Continue stitching off the fabric until you have a 3- 4 thread chain. Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the balanced stitch graphic on page__ of the Owner's manual. Read the information under Adjusting the Thread Tension on page__ of the Owner's manual for information about the stitch formation and correcting any stitch irregularities. Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of stitching. Trim and mount the sample.

700D/800DL/6

ADJUSTING TENSIONS
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: 6 pieces of firm fabric, 6 x 6 each 1 piece of lightweight cotton, 3 x 4 80/12 Universal 4 cones of serger thread (yellow, red, green, blue) Standard
Lower Looper - Increased Tension
Owner's Manual pg.____ Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the serger. Fold each piece of the firm fabric to 1 x 4 and set aside. Locate the thread tension levers on the front of the serger. From left to right, these levers adjust tension for the Left Needle, Right Needle, Upper Looper, and the Lower Looper. Adjust the lower looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the tension on the looper thread. Place the first piece of folded fabric under the presser foot with the fold to the right and serge to the end of the fabric, cutting off the fold. Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The upper looper thread is pulled tightly to the back of the stitch. The left needle thread may be pulled to the back of the stitch. Trim, label, and mount the sample.
Lower Looper - Decreased Tension
Change the lower looper thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the tension on the looper thread. Serge the second piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold. Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The lower looper thread is visible on the face of the fabric. The looper threads are very loose. Label, trim, and mount the sample.

700D/800DL/7

Upper Looper - Increased Tension
Adjust the upper looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the tension on the looper thread. Serge the third piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold. Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The lower looper thread is pulled tightly to the front of the stitch. Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Upper Looper - Decreased Tension
Change the upper looper thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the tension on the looper thread. Serge the fourth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold. Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The upper looper thread is visible on the back of the fabric. The looper threads are very loose. Label, trim, and mount the sample. Return the thread tension levers to normal.

700D/800DL/11

DIFFERENTIAL FEED Fabrics That Stretch
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: 3 pieces of ribbing, 5 (width) x 2 each (length) 80/12 Universal 4 cones of serger thread Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions for a balanced overlock stitch (3-5). Set the cutting width as needed and set the stitch length to 2.5mm. With differential set at N, serge two of the ribbing pieces together along one 5 edge. If the fabric is stretchy enough you will have a wavy edge. Adjust the differential to 2.0. Stitching along the 5 side, serge the remaining ribbing to the other side of the piece, trimming slightly. With differential at a higher setting, the the wavy edge should be eliminated. Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample. Compare the seams to see how the differential settings can affect stretching. Trim and mount the sample. Return the differential feed setting to N (normal). 700D/800DL/12
DIFFERENTIAL FEED Fabrics That Pucker
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Batiste, 3 x 6 80/12 Universal 4 cones of serger thread Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions for a balanced overlock stitch (3-5). Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm. With differential set at N, serge on one 6 edge. If fabric is lightweight enough you will have a puckered edge. Adjust the differential to 0.7. Serge along the other edge, trimming slightly. With a low differential setting, the puckered edge should be eliminated. Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.

700D/800DL/13

SL 4mm Diff. Feed 2
Increased needle tensions SL 4mm Diff. Feed 2

Diff. Feed 2

DIFFERENTIAL FEED Gathering and Easing
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Medium weight cotton, 3 x 12 80/12 Universal 4 cones of serger thread Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Using a fabric marker divide the fabric into 3 equal sections along the 12 side. Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions for a balanced overlock stitch (3-5). Turn the differential feed dial to 2. Serge to the first mark. Adjust stitch length to 4mm and serge to the second mark. Move the thread tension levers up to 8 to increase the needle thread tensions. Serge to the end of the fabric. Return the differential feed to N (normal). Return the stitch length to 2.5 (normal). Move the thread tension levers to return tensions to normal (3-5). Mark the sample: Differential Feed 2; Differential Feed 2 & Stitch Length 4; Differential Feed 2 & stitch length 4 & increased needle tension. Trim and mount the sample. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA 1/04/02 700D/800DL/14

700D/800DL/16

WISH LIST Lets Start With The Basics
Feet-ures, Unit M Serger Technique Reference Book Carrying Case Serger Cone Thread color________ color________ color________ color________ Needles size____ and type___ size____ and type____ size____ and type____ size____ and type____ Seam Sealant Fabric Marking Pen Rotary Cutter Wavy Cutting blade BERNINA 14 ruler BERNINA Cutting Mat Fabric Glue Stick Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles Vacuum Cleaner Attachment 1 Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster

700D/800DL/17

OWNERS WORKBOOK Section B 4-Thread Techniques

700D/800DL/18

SECTION B 4-Thread Techniques
General Construction Seaming
Use a 4-thread Overlock stitch for most fabrics - The right needle stitching helps to prevent fabric rolling within the stitch, keeping the seam flat. Secure seam ends if you will not be stitching across them again. Adjust presser foot pressure for very thick or thin fabrics Owners manual pg.____

Serging Knits

Use Ballpoint or Stretch needles to prevent damage to the fabric. Woolly Nylon in the loopers adds to the stretch of the serger stitch. Adjust stitch length to 3mm for most seam applications. To prevent fabric stretching during sewing - Differential feed Owner's manual pg.____ - Presser foot pressure Owner's manual pg.____

Serging Wovens

Use Universal, Sharp or Microtex Needles. Match the serger cone thread to the fabrics fiber content and color. Adjust stitch length to 2.5mm for medium to heavy fabrics. Adjust stitch length to 2mm for lightweight fabrics. Whenever possible work with opposing seams (one seam allowance pressed to the left and one seam allowance pressed to the right) as you join the seamed pieces together.

Optional Presser Feet

Standard Presser Foot with Tape Guide - Holds narrow twill tape, elastic, and ribbon to be serged into seam The Elasticator Foot Owner's leaflet for the Elasticator - For attaching elastic from 5mm -12mm ( to ) wide. - Adjust Presser Foot Pressure to H Owner's manual pg.____ - Adjust Stitch Length to 4mm. Gathering Attachment Owner's leaflet for the Gathering Attachment - Attachment Base for adding 2500 and 1100 attachments Gathering Attachment, Right Seam Guide, Multi-Purpose Foot Guide - What affects gathering? - Type and weight of fabric - Differential Feed Owner's manual pg.____ - Stitch Length - Needle Tension Owner's manual pg.____ - Gathering to a piece of fabric Use the Gathering Attachment with other serger presser feet.

700D/800DL/19

4 THREAD OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Medium weight, 5 x 6 80/12 Universal 4 cones of serger thread Standard

Owners manual pg.___ Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set all thread tension levers between 3-5 (normal). Locate the tape guide on the presser foot. Using the small screwdriver from the accessory pouch, loosen the fixing screw and slide the tape guide all the way to the left. Snug the screw. Slip the twill tape or ribbon into the slot on the presser foot. Lower the presser foot and lower the needles into the tape or ribbon. Loosen the fixing screw and adjust the tape guide to the width of the tape or ribbon. Retighten the screw. Seam the jersey together along the 6 side, catching the tape or ribbon. Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and examine the seam. It will not stretch. The tape or ribbon has stabilized the seam. Trim and mount the sample.

700D/800DL/23

ATTACHING RIBBING
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Sweatshirt fleece, 4 x 6 Ribbing, 6 (width) x 2 (length) 11/75 Stretch or Ballpoint 2 cones of serger thread (needles) 2 cones of Woolly Nylon (loopers) Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using Woolly Nylon in both loopers. Set all thread tension levers between 3-5 (normal). Cut a mock neckline on the corner of the fleece (quarter circle). Fold the ribbing in half (wrong sides together) to 1 x 6. Matching raw edges, place the ribbing to the neckline on the right side of the fleece. Serge the ribbing to the fleece, stretching the ribbing to meet the fleece neckline. Trim and mount the sample.

700D/800DL/24

SERGER PIECING
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: 3 strips of medium weight cotton fabric cut 1 x strips of contrasting medium weight cotton cut 1 x 4 80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex 4 cones of serger thread Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set all thread tension levers between 3-5 (normal).
There will be two (2) strip sets sewn, each with three (3) strips of fabric. Strip set 1 is light, dark, and light and strip set 2 is dark, light, and dark. With right sides together, serge the fabric strips together into strip sets without trimming any fabric. Press the seam allowances toward the dark fabric strips. Using a rotary cutter, mat and ruler, cut the strip sets into 1 block sets. Use 1 block set from the light/dark/light strip set and 2 block sets from the dark/light/dark strip set. Discard the excess fabric. Serge 1 dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip. The seam allowances will be opposing (flipped to nest into each other). Serge the remaining dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip. Press the seam allowances to the dark/light/dark strips. Trim thread tails and mount the sample on the following page.

700D/800DL/25

700D/800DL/26

REVERSIBLE QUILTING

Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot:
Cut the following from cotton fabrics, muslin, and batting: 3 pieces 2 x 4; cut 1 piece 2 x 5 80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex 4 cones of serger thread Standard

Owners manual pg.___ Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set all thread tension levers between 3-5 (normal). Raise the upper knife and adjust the cutting width to 3mm. Locate and loosen the silver fixing screw in front of the rolled hem stitch selection lever and attach the attachment base. Slip the Gathering Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal post directly behind the fixing screw. Hint: attach the horseshoe-shaped slot over the screw and then rotate the attachment to lock over the metal post. Tighten the fixing screw. Return cutting width to 2mm (normal) and lower the upper knife into cutting position. Locate and adjust the differential feed dial to 2. Raise the presser foot and insert the 14 strip of fabric (right side up) under the Gathering Attachment. The fabric is lying next to the stitch plate. Sew several stitches until the fabric is under the needles. Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed dog.) Place the 8 strip of fabric (right side down) on top of the Gathering Attachment and under the presser foot with the end of the 8 strip touching the needles. Serge the two strips together, the lower strip will gather as you sew. Trim and mount the sample. Return all settings to normal. The attachment base can remain on the machine.

700D/800DL/33

700D/800DL/34
THE GATHERING ATTACHMENT With the Elasticator Foot
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Attachments: Medium weight cotton, 3 x of nylon or cotton braid elastic 80/12 Universal 4 cones of serger thread Elasticator Gathering Attachment (optional accessory) Attachment Base (optional)
Owners manual pg.___ Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set all thread tension levers between 3-5 (normal). Raise the upper knife and adjust the cutting width to 3mm. Locate and loosen the silver fixing screw in front of the rolled hem stitch selection lever and attach the attachment base. Slip the Gathering Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal post directly behind the fixing screw. Hint: Attach the horseshoe-shaped slot over the screw and then rotate the attachment to lock over the metal post. Tighten the fixing screw. Return cutting width to 2mm (normal) and lower the upper knife into cutting position. Locate and adjust the differential feed dial to 2. Attach the Elasticator Foot. Raise the presser foot and insert the 18 strip of fabric under the Gathering Attachment. The fabric is lying against the stitch plate. Sew several stitches until the fabric is under the needles. Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed dog.) Turn the pressure adjustment screw counterclockwise to release all pressure on the roller guide. Raise the roller guide and insert the elastic into the slot at the front of the presser foot. Lower the presser foot and take a few stitches into the elastic. Slowly tighten the pressure adjustment set screw to increase the pressure on the roller and stretch the elastic. Note: Do not over tighten the screw. Excessive pressure on the elastic will bind the fabric. Serge the elastic onto the fabric letting the presser foot stretch the elastic for you. Trim and mount the sample. Return all settings to normal.

700D/800DL/40

Fabric edge wrapped with strips of bias cut tricot or water soluble stabilizer before serging.
THREE THREAD OVERLOCK (5mm-7mm - Left Needle) Seam Finish
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: 2 pieces medium weight wool, 2 x 5 each 2 strips of bias cut tricot, x 5 (optional) 80/12 Universal 3 cones of serger thread Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Set the serger for a wide 3-thread overlock stitch. (left needle). Set all thread tension levers between 3-5 (normal). Serge one 5 raw edge on each piece of fabric. Optional: For added support, wrap the fabric edge with strips of bias cut tricot or water soluble stabilizer before serging. Using your BERNINA sewing machine and a standard 5/8 seam allowance, seam the two pieces of fabric together along the serged edges. Press the seam open. Trim and mount the sample

700D/800DL/41

OUTSIDE CORNERS
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: 2 pieces of firm fabric, 4 x 5 80/12 Universal 3 cones of serger thread Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Set the serger for a wide 3-thread overlock stitch (left needle). Set all thread tension levers between 3-5 (normal).

OPTION I

Serge one edge of the fabric, stitching off the end of the fabric; trim the thread tail. Continue serging around the square crossing over the previous stitching. Use a seam sealant on the untrimmed thread tails (or use a tapestry needle to weave the thread tail back through the stitching). When the seam sealant is dry, trim the thread tails. Mount the sample on the next page.

OPTION II

Before serging, trim away the seam allowance () for about 2 on each corner. Beginning at one trimmed corner, serge (cutting as you sew) to the end of the fabric. Take one stitch off the end of the fabric. Locate the rolled hem lever on the stitch plate and pull the white lever towards you. This will free the thread from the stitch finger. Lift the presser foot and carefully pivot the fabric 90 clockwise. Return the rolled hem lever to normal (away from you). Place the needle one stitch into the fabric and lower the presser foot. Continue serging until you are one stitch off the next corner. Repeat the turning procedure and continue serging. Mount the sample on the next page.

Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Sweatshirt fleece, 4 x 6 80/12 Universal 2 cones of serger thread 1 cone of Jeans Stitch by YLI Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Set the serger for a wide 3-thread overlock stitch (left needle) with Jeans Stitch in the upper looper. Set the thread tension levers for a 3-thread flatlock stitch as directed in the Owners manual. Adjust the stitch length to 3mm. (You can shorten the stitch length slightly to fill in the stitch as you serge.) Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, to 2 x 6. Optional: Attach the Attachment Base and the Right Seam Guide. Move the Right Seam Guide halfway between the needle and the stitch finger. Place the fold under the foot. Guide the fabric halfway between the left needle and the right edge of the stitch finger (or against the Right Seam Guide). Slowly serge the fabric. The looper threads will extend beyond the fabric on the right side of fold. Gently pull the fabric flat Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal. Trim and mount the sample. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA 1/04/02

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WISH LIST 3-Thread Techniques
Serger Technique Reference Book Feet-ures, Unit M Woolly Nylon Thread color________ color________ color________ color________ Isacord Thread color________ color________ color________ color________ Jeans Stitch Thread color________ color________ color________ color________ Needles Microtex size____ size____ Sharp size____ size____ Cording Foot Blindstitch Foot Right Seam Guide Attachment Base Aqua Film Stabilizer Seams Great (Bias Cut Tricot) Seam Sealant BERNINA Ironing System 6 Ruler/Gauge Rotary cutter BERNINA Cutting Mat BERNINA 14 ruler Floral Wire - 28 gauge or smaller Wire Looper Threaders
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA 1/04/02 700D/800DL/59
OWNERS WORKBOOK Section D Lets Experiment

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SECTION D Lets Experiment
Installing the Upper Looper Converter (optional for the 700D)
Owners manual pg__ Turn the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position before attaching the 2-thread Adapter Used for specialty stitches: 3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch, 2-Thread Wrapped Stitch, 2-Thread Flatlock, 2-Thread Rolled Edge

Specialty Stitches

3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch - Ideal for active wear construction; use with Elasticator when applying elastic 2-Thread Flatlock - Wide decorative stitch for home decor projects and active wear 2-Thread Rolled Hem - Delicate decorative edge on fine fabrics 2-Thread Wrapped Edge - Perfect decorative edge finish for blankets and polar fleece edges

Optional Presser Feet and Accessories
Attachment Base - For adding 2500 and 1100 attachments: Gathering Attachment, Right Seam Guide, Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide Right Seam Guide - Accurate seaming - Attach the Right Seam Guide when working with standard patterns requiring a 5/8 seam allowances. - Adjust the Guide from the left needle using a 6 ruler/gauge to measure. Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide - Instructional Leaflet for Multi-Purpose Foot - Used for: Making covered corded piping, attaching beads, attaching sequins - Cording Guide Instructional Leaflet for Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide Correctly feeds cording under the foot Use with a variety of stitches - Covering cord 4-thread overlock stitch, 3-thread wide overlock stitch - Attaching beads 3-thread flatlock stitch right or left needle, 2-thread flatlock right or left needle - Attaching sequins 3-thread overlock stitch left needle, 3-thread flatlock left needle, 3-thread flatlock left needle - Use with the Gathering Attachment Gather fabric and attach covered cord in one operation

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THREE THREAD SUPER STRETCH STITCH
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Cotton or nylon Lycra, 5 x 6 80/12 Stretch or 11/75 Ballpoint 2 cones of serger thread 1 cone of Woolly Nylon Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D. Set all thread tension levers between 3-5 (normal). Following the instructions in the Owners manual thread the serger for a Super Stretch Stitch using Woolly Nylon in the lower looper. Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm (normal). Fold the Lycra in half to 2 x 6. Place the fabric under the foot and serge, cutting off the fold. Trim and mount the sample

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ATTACHING ELASTIC WITH THE SUPER STRETCH STITCH
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Cotton or nylon Lycra, 3 x of nylon or cotton elastic braid elastic 80/12 Stretch or 11/75 Ballpoint 2 cones of serger thread 1 cone of Woolly Nylon Elasticator Foot (optional accessory)
Owners manual pg.___ Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D. Set all thread tension levers between 3-5 (normal). Following the instructions in the Owners manual thread the serger for a Super Stretch Stitch using Woolly Nylon in the lower looper. Adjust the stitch length to 4mm. Turn the presser foot presser knob clockwise to increase the pressure. Attach the Elasticator Foot. Turn the pressure adjustment screw (on the roller guide) clockwise to set pressure as desired. Raise the roller guide and insert the elastic into the slot at the front of the presser foot. Place the fabric under the foot and serge, cutting off the fold. Trim and mount the sample. 700D/800DL/63

TWO THREAD FLATLOCK STITCH
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Medium weight cotton, 4 x 6 80/12 Stretch 1 cone of serger thread 1 cone of Jeans Stitch Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D. Set all thread tension levers between 3-5 (normal). Following the instructions in the Owners manual thread the serger for a 2-thread flatlock stitch using Jeans Stitch in the lower looper. Set tension levers as directed. Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm. Fold the fabric in half to 2 x 6 and position it halfway between the left needle and the stitch finger. Optional: Attach the Attachment Base and the Right Seam Guide. Move the Right Seam Guide halfway between the needle and the stitch finger. Slowly serge the fabric. The looper threads will extend beyond the fabric on the right side of fold. Gently pull the fabric flat Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal. Trim and mount the sample.

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SERGING WITH HEAVY DECORATIVE THREADS
Fabric: Needle: Thread: 3 pieces medium weight cotton, 4 x 6 each 90/14 Stretch 1 cone of serger thread 1 cone of each of the following: Pearl Crown Rayon, Candlelight, Designer 6 Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D. Following the instructions in the Owners manual thread the serger for a 2-thread flatlock stitch using decorative thread in the lower looper. Set tension levers as directed. Adjust the stitch length to 4mm. You can slowly shorten the stitch length as you serge to fill in the flatlock stitch. Sew the sample. If the tension on the decorative thread is too tight, slide the looper tension lever to a lower number and try again. If after reducing the thread tension with the looper tension Lever, the tension on the decorative thread is still too tight, remove the thread from the last thread guide and try again. Experiment with the suggested threads, adjusting thread tension levers and by-passing thread guides as needed. Press, trim, and mount the samples on the following page.

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Pearl Crown Rayon

Candlelight

Designer 6

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TWO THREAD ROLLED HEM
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Batiste, 3 x 6 70/10 Sharp or Microtex 2 cones of lightweight serger thread Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D. Following the instructions in the Owners manual thread the serger for a 2-thread flatlock stitch. Set tension levers as directed. Pull the rolled hem lever towards you. Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm. Set cutting width at 2mm (normal). Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 6 edge, trimming about 1/8 from the raw edge. Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal. Trim and mount the sample.

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WRAPPED EDGE
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Heavy wool or polar fleece, 5 x 6 80/12 Stretch 1 cone of serger thread 1 cone of Jeans Stitch Standard
Owners manual pg.___ Attach the 2-thread adapter to the upper looper. Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D. Following the instructions in the Owners manual thread the serger for a 2-thread wrapped edge using Jeans Stitch thread in the lower looper. Set tension levers as directed. Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one edge; adjust the differential feed function if needed. If the Jeans Stitch does not wrap, the thread tension may be too tight. Reduce the looper thread tension. If the thread still does not wrap, remove the Jeans Stitch thread from the uppermost thread guide and try again. Wrap-stitch the other three edges of the fabric. Use seam sealant to seal the stitching at the corners. When the sealant is dry, trim the thread tails. Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal. Trim and mount the sample.

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MULTI-PURPOSE FOOT Corded Piping
Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2 x of 3/8 cotton cording 80/12 Stretch 4 cones of serger thread Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide (optional accessory) Attachment Base (optional)
Owners manual pg.___ Following the instructions in the Owners manual thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using both needles. Set all thread tension levers to normal (3-5). Set stitch length to 3.5mm. Attach the Attachment Base. Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in the instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide. Insert the cord into the guide. Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the groove under the foot. Serge the covered cord. Mount the sample.

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MULTI-PURPOSE FOOT Creating and Attaching Corded Piping
Fabric: Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2 x 8 Medium weight cotton, 3 x of 3/8 cotton cording 80/12 Stretch 4 cones of serger thread Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide (optional accessory) Attachment Base (optional)
Owners manual pg.___ Following the instructions in the Owners manual thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using both needles. Set all thread tension levers to normal (3-5). Set stitch length to 3mm. Attach the Attachment Base. Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in the instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide. Place the 3 x 8 fabric under the foot. Insert the cord into the guide. Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the groove under the foot and on top of the other fabric. Serge, making the covered cord and attaching it to the fabric strip in one stitching. Press the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric strip. Mount the sample. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA 1/04/02 700D/800DL/70

MULTI-PURPOSE FOOT With The Gathering Attachment
Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2 x 8 Medium weight cotton, 3 x of 3/8 cotton cording 80/12 Stretch 4 cones of serger thread Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide (optional accessory) Gathering Attachment (optional accessory) Attachment Base (optional)
Owners manual pg.___ Following the instructions in the Owners manual thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using both needles. Set all thread tension levers to normal (3-5). Set stitch length to 3mm. Adjust differential feed to 2. Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot (no guide), following the directions in the instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide. Attach the Attachment Base. Attach the Gathering Attachment following the directions in the instruction leaflet for the Gathering Attachment. Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the groove under the foot. Take 2 or 3 stitches into the fabric and lower the needles into the fabric. Place the 3 x 18 fabric under the Gathering Attachment and next to the needles. Serge, covering the cord, gathering the fabric strip and seaming all layers together. Mount the sample on the following page.

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MULTIPURPOSE FOOT With The Gathering Attachment

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MULTI-PURPOSE FOOT Attaching Pre-Strung Beads
Fabric: Needle: Thread: Presser Foot: Medium weight, 4 x of plastic, pre-strung beads (4mm) 80/12 Universal 3 cones of serger thread Multi-Purpose Foot (optional accessory)
Owners manual pg.___ Following the instructions in the Owners manual thread the serger for a 3-thread flatlock stitch using the right needle. Set all thread tension levers as directed. Set stitch length to 4mm. Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot (no guide), following the directions in the instruction leaflet for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide. Optional: Attach the Attachment Base and the Right Seam Guide. Move the Right Seam Guide halfway between the needle and the stitch finger. Lay the pre-strung beads in the groove on the top of the foot, threading them under the back groove (see instruction leaflet for the Multi-purpose Attachment with Guide). Turn the handwheel to encase the first beads into the thread chain. Fold the fabric in half to 2 x 6 and place the fabric under the foot with the fold halfway between the needle and the stitch finger or against the right seam guide. Slowly flatlock the beads to the folded fabric. Gently pull the fabric flat. Mount the sample.

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WISH LIST Lets Experiment
Elasticator Foot Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide Right Seam Guide Attachment Base 2-Thread Adapter (for 700D only) Gathering Attachment Serger Technique Reference Book Woolly Nylon thread
color________ color________ color________

YLI Jeans Stitch

color________ color________

YLI Pearl Crown Rayon

YLI Decorator 6

YLI Candle Light

Feet-ures, Unit M, Unit M BERNINA Ironing System 6 ruler/gauge Pearls-By-The-Yard (3mm-4mm) Seam Sealant

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