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Husqvarna 55


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Husqvarna 55 - Service Manual Chainsaw, size: 420 KB
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IPL, 55 Rancher, 2010-04

55 Rancher
Spare parts Ersatzteile Pices dtaches Reserve onderdelen Repuestos Reservdelar



Page A

Position 21
55 Rancher Article 81-80 27-12 33-87 53-21 28-87 54-71 87-42 52-31 08-16 48-76 81-49 32-87 42-21 28-15 21-87 47-89 27-76 80-20 26-52 39-22 00-01 Quantity 1

55 Rancher COVER

Page B

Position 3

55 Rancher Article 90-21 43-98 74-01 Quantity 1

COVER Notes Kit 1 1


A 18-02 Set of gaskets

Page C

Position 15 16

55 Rancher Article 82-21 07-89 81-89 81-20 32-20 02-28 31-28 31-77 00-76 48-63 97-73 09-73 08-20 02-60 84-31 07-16 16-76 18-02 Quantity 1 1

FELT 80 3

EPA, EU8 8

A = Set of Gaskets

55 Rancher CYLINDER & PISTON 3

Page D

Position 11 12
55 Rancher Article 91-55 22-60 81-28 90-45 16-44 10-16 21-12 79-66 54-20 02-23 51-76 18-02 Quantity 1 1

RCJ7Y A = Set of Gaskets

55 Rancher FUEL TANK & HANDLE 7

Page E

Position 19 20
55 Rancher Article 13-44 32-73 58-13 15-57 50-87 77-09 79-08 46-77 80-87 31-32 49-12 42-40 47-76 39-21 52-57 89-21 50-87 29-21 06-21 06-16 Quantity 2 2
FUEL TANK & HANDLE Notes Kit 1 1

55 Rancher MUFFLER 4

Page F

Position 7

55 Rancher Article 91-74 97-12 87-21 82-76 88-22 24-76 66-05 Quantity 1
55 Rancher CRANK SHAFT 3 4

Page G

Position 3 4
55 Rancher Article 38-22 02-45 16-22 02-25 Quantity 1 1


55 Rancher CLUTCH & OIL PUMP

Page H

Position 17
55 Rancher Article 32-53 29-76 37-12 10-66 01-77 76-10 49-10 16-11 05-35 91-74 54-45 39-25 34-45 74-52 30-23 01-08 87-25 34-23 01-05 Quantity 1
9.325"x7 3/8x7.325"x7 3/8x7.325"x11

55 Rancher CRANKCASE 2

Page J

Position 27

55 Rancher Article 98-73 04-21 27-33 25-27 57-20 02-76 44-20 02-22 62-27 57-76 30-76 56-44 05-57 89-79 50-45 41-45 27-54 63-76 64-20 02-20 02-76 22-12 10-13 07-66 84-68 42-76 18-02 Quantity 1


55 Rancher IGNITION

Page K

Position 12
55 Rancher Article 28-71 79-22 04-79 00-78 32-71 02-79 05-20 25-01 84-16 31-48 54-02 Quantity 1


55 Rancher STARTER 9

Page L

Position 11
55 Rancher Article 88-21 06-23 00-30 37-30 51-54 39-76 31-60 86-63 06-35 98-13 29-55 Quantity 4

STARTER Notes Kit 1 1


5 B 9 8

B 21-01 Set of gaskets

Page M

Position 39 40
55 Rancher Article 31-28 31-48 05-97 43-48 02-48 03-48 01-48 00-66 59-47 99-47 97-90 31-99 43-48 08-90 31-90 29-48 07-07 72-97 44-90 34-90 32-90 33-97 45-48 18-48 17-48 16-13 49-47 90-47 88-47 89-47 92-47 91-97 42-01 97-75 53-48 13-80 56-47 94-48 11-48 10-48 09-47 95-47 96-48 21-01 Quantity 1 1


This section explains the various safety features of the saw, how they work, and basic inspection and maintenance you should carry out to ensure safe operation. (See the What is what? section to find out where these components are on Your saw).
MOST CHAIN SAW ACCIDENTS HAPPEN WHEN THE CHAIN TOUCHES THE OPERATOR. You must wear approved protective equipment whenever you use a chain saw. Personal protective equipment cannot eliminate the risk of injury but it will reduce the degree of injury if an accident does happen. Ask your chain saw dealer for help in choosing the right equipment. NEVER USE A CHAIN SAW THAT HAS FAULTY SAFETY EQUIPMENT! Carry out the inspection, maintenance and service routines listed in this section.
Chain brake and front hand guard

Throttle lock


Chain catcher


Right hand guard

Vibration damping system

Stop switch

BOOTS WITH SAW PROTECTION, STEEL TOE-CAP AND NON-SLIP SOLE 7 Generally clothes should be close-fitting without restricting your freedom of movement. Muffler
Cutting equipment (see Cutting equipment section).

4 English

1 Chain brake and front hand guard
YOUR chain saw is equipped with a chain brake that is designed to stop the chain immediately if you get a kickback. The chain brake reduces the risk of accidents, but only You can prevent them. Take care when using your saw and make sure the kickback zone of the bar never touches any object. 2 The front hand guard is not designed solely to activate the chain brake. Another important safety feature is that it prevents the chain from hitting your left hand if you lose your grip on the front handle.
The chain brake (A) can either be activated manually (by your left hand) or automatically by the inertia release mechanism (a freeswinging pendulum). On most of our models the front hand guard acts as a counterweight in case of kickback.

3a Starting The chain brake must be engaged when starting.
The brake is applied when the front hand guard (B) is pushed forwards.
You can also use the chain brake as a temporary brake when you change position or if you put the saw down for a short time. You should also apply the chain brake manually if there is a risk of the chain accidentally hitting anyone or anything close by.
4 This movement activates a spring-loaded mechanism that tightens the Brake Band (C) around the engine drive system (D) (Clutch Drum).
To release the chain brake pull the front hand guard backwards, towards the front handle.
As mentioned in section A, kickback can be very sudden and violent. Most kickbacks are minor and do not always activate the chain brake. If this happens you should hold the chain saw firmly and not let go.
6 The way the chain brake is triggered, either manually or automatically, depends on the force of the kickback and the position of the chain saw in relation to the object that the kickback zone of the bar strikes. If you get a violent kickback while the kickback zone of the bar is farthest away from you the chain brake will be activated by the movement of the counterweight (INERTIA ACTIVATED).

2 Throttle lock

The throttle lock is designed to prevent accidental operation of the throttle control. When you press the lock (A) (i.e. when you grasp the handle) it releases the throttle trigger (B). When you release the handle the throttle trigger and the throttle lock both move back to their original positions. This movement is controlled by two independent return springs. This arrangement means that the throttle control is automatically locked at the idle setting when you release the handle.

3 Chain catcher

If the kickback is less violent or the kickback zone of the bar is closer to you the chain brake will be activated manually by the movement of your left hand. The chain catcher is designed to catch the chain if it snaps or jumps off. This should not happen if the chain is properly tensioned (see section on Assembly) and if the bar and chain are properly serviced and maintained. (See section on General working instructions).

Press the throttle lock and make sure it returns to its original position when you release it.
Regularly check the vibration damping units for cracks or deformation 3 Check that the throttle control and throttle lock move freely and that the return springs work properly.
Make sure the vibration damping units are securely attached to the engine unit and handles.
Start the saw and apply full throttle. Release the throttle control and check that the chain stops and remains stationary. If the chain rotates when the throttle is on idle setting you should check the carburetor idle adjustment. See the section on Maintenance.
Start the engine and make sure the engine stops when you move the stop switch to the stop setting.
Check that the CHAIN CATCHER is not damaged and is firmly attached to the body of the saw.
Never use a chain saw that has a faulty muffler.


This section describes how to choose and maintain your cutting equipment in order to: Reduce the risk of kickback. Reduce the risk of the chain breaking or jumping. Obtain maximum cutting performance. Extend the life of cutting equipment.

The 5 basic rules

1 Only use cutting equipment recommended by us! See the Technical data section.
Regularly check that the muffler is securely attached to the chain saw. 2 Keep the chain cutting teeth properly sharpened! Follow our instructions and use the recommended file gauge. A damaged or badly sharpened chain increases the risk of accidents.
If the muffler on your saw is fitted with a spark arrestor mesh this must be cleaned regularly. A blocked mesh will cause the engine to overheat and may lead to serious damage. 3 Never use a muffler if the spark arrestor mesh is missing or defective.
Maintain the correct raker clearance! Follow our instructions and use the recommended raker gauge. Too large a clearance increases the risk of kickback.

A General information on sharpening cutting teeth
Never use a blunt chain. When the chain is blunt you have to exert more pressure to force the bar through the wood and the cuttings will be very small. If the chain is very blunt it will not produce any cuttings at all, just wood powder. A sharp chain eats its way through the wood and produces long, thick cuttings. The following faults will increase the risk of kickback considerably.


The cutting part of the chain is called the CUTTING LINK and this consists of a CUTTING TOOTH (A) and the RAKER LIP (B). The cutting depth is determined by the difference in height between the two.


B Sharpening cutting teeth
To sharpen cutting teeth you will need a ROUND FILE and a FILE GAUGE. See the Technical data section for information on the size of file and gauge that are recommended for your saw chain. 1 Check that the chain is correctly tensioned. A slack chain is difficult to sharpen correctly.
When you sharpen a cutting tooth there are five important factors to remember. FILING ANGLE
CUTTING ANGLE 2 Always file cutting teeth from the inside face, reducing the pressure on the return stroke. File all the teeth on one side first, then turn the saw over and file the teeth on the other side. ROUND FILE DIAMETER 3 File all the teeth to the same length. When the length of the cutting teeth is reduced to 4 mm (0,16") the chain is worn out and should be replaced.


min 4 mm (0,16")


See the Technical data section for information about sharpening your saw chain.

12 English

C General advice on setting raker clearance
When you sharpen the cutting teeth you reduce the RAKER CLEARANCE (cutting depth). To maintain cutting performance you must file back the raker teeth to the recommended height. See the Technical data section to find the raker clearance for your saw chain. On a low-kickback cutting link the front edge of the raker lip is rounded. It is very important that you maintain this radius or bevel when you adjust the raker clearance. We recommend the use of a raker gauge to achieve the correct clearance and bevel on the raker lip.
D Setting the raker clearance
Before setting the raker clearance the cutting teeth should be newly sharpened. We recommend that you adjust the raker clearance every third time you sharpen the chain. NOTE! This recommendation assumes that the length of the cutting teeth is not reduced excessively. To adjust the raker clearance you will need a FLAT FILE and a RAKER GAUGE.
Place the gauge over the raker lip.
Place the file over the part of the lip that protrudes through the gauge and file off the excess. The clearance is correct when you no longer feel any resistance as you draw the file over the gauge.

The risk of kickback is increased if the raker clearance is too large!

3 Tensioning the chain

A slack chain may jump off and cause serious or even fatal injury. The more you use a chain the longer it becomes. It is therefore important to adjust the chain regularly to take up the slack. Check the chain tension every time you refuel. NOTE! A new saw chain has a running-in period during which you should check the tension more frequently. Tension the chain as tightly as possible, but not so tight that you cannot pull it round freely by hand.
4 Lubricating cutting equipment
1 Undo the bar nuts that hold the clutch cover and chain brake, using the combination spanner. Then tighten the nuts by hand as tight as you can. Poor lubrication of cutting equipment may cause the chain to snap and lead to serious, even fatal injuries.

A Chain oil

Chainsaw chain oil must demonstrate good adhesion to the chain and also maintain its flow caracteristics regardless of whether it is warm summer or cold winter weather. As a chainsaw manufacturer we have developed an optimal chain oil which has a vegetable oil base. We recommend the use of our own oil for both maximum chain life and to minimise environmental damage. If our own chain oil is not available, standard chain oil is recommended. In areas where oil specifically for lubrication of saw chains is unavailable, ordinary EP 90 transmission oil may be used.
Raise the tip of the bar and stretch the chain by tightening the chain tensioning screw using the combination spanner. Tighten the chain until it not hang slack on the underside of the bar.
Use the combination spanner to tighten the bar nuts while lifting the tip of the bar at the same time. Check that you can pull the chain round freely by hand and that it is not slack on the bottom of the bar. The position of the chain tensioning screw varies from model to model. See the What is what section to find out where it is on your saw.
Never use waste oil! This is dangerous for yourself, the saw and the environment.

B Filling with chain oil

All our chain saws have an automatic chain lubrication system. On some models the oil flow is also adjustable. The sizes of the chain oil tank and fuel tank have been chosen so that the saw will run out of fuel before running out of oil. This means that you should never run with a dry chain. However, this safety feature requires that you use the right sort of chain oil (if the oil is too thin it will run out before the fuel), and that you adjust the carburetor as recommended (a weak mixture may mean that the fuel lasts longer than the oil). You should also use the recommended cutting equipment (a bar that is too long will use more chain oil). The above conditions also apply to models with an adjustable oil pump.

14 English

C Checking chain lubrication
Check the chain lubrication each time you refuel. Aim the tip of the saw at a light coloured surface about 20 cm away. After 1 minute running at 3/4 throttle you should see a distinct line of oil on the light surface. The clutch drum is equipped with one of the following chain sprockets: Spur sprocket (A) (the chain sprocket is welded on the drum) Rim sprocket (B) (exchangeable) Both versions have built-in needle bearing at the drive shaft, whitch has to be greased regularly (once a week). NOTE! Use only high quality bearing grease or engine oil.
Needle bearing maintenance
If the chain lubrication is not working: 1 Check that the oil channel in the bar is not obstructed. Clean if necessary.
Checking wear on cutting equipment
Check that the groove in the edge of the bar is clean. Clean if necessary. Check that the bar tip sprocket turns freely and that the lubricating hole in the tip is not blocked. Clean and lubricate if necessary.
Check the saw chain daily for: Visible cracks in rivets and links. Whether the chain is stiff. Whether rivets and links are badly worn. We recommend you compare the existing chain with a new chain to decide how badly it is worn. When the length of the cutting teeth has worn down to only 4 mm the chain must be replaced.
If the chain lubrication system is still not working after carrying out the above measures you should contact your service agent.

G Chain drive sprocket

D Lubricating the bar tip sprocket
The clutch drum is fitted with one of the following drive sprockets: A SPUR (integral drive sprocket) RING (replaceable) Regularly check the degree of wear on the drive sprocket. Replace if wear is excessive. Replace the drive sprocket whenever you replace the chain.
Lubricate the bar tip sprocket each time you refuel. Use the special grease gun and a good quality bearing grease.


Kickback can happen very suddenly and violently; kicking the saw, bar and chain back at the user. If this happens when the chain is moving it can cause very serious, even fatal injuries. It is vital you understand what causes kickback and that you can avoid it by taking care and using the right working technique.

4 Freeing a tree that has fallen badly = high accident risk

A Freeing a Trapped tree

The safest method is to use a winch. A Tractor-mounted B Portable
There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger than the bar length. However these methods involve a much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will come into contact with the tree.
B Cutting trees and branches that are in tension Preparations:
a) Work out which way the tree or branch will move if released and where the natural BREAKING POINT is (i.e. the place it would break if it was bent even more).
Make sure there are no obstacles in your way. Work on the left side of the trunk. Work close to the saw for maximum control. If possible, let the weight of the saw rest on the trunk. Keep the tree between you and the saw as you move along the trunk.
Decide which is the SAFEST way to release the tension and whether YOU are able to do it safely. In complicated situations the only safe method is to put aside your chain saw and use a winch.
General advice: a) Position yourself so that you will be clear of the tree or branch when it springs free.
Cutting the trunk into logs
See chapter General working instructions point 2 Basic cutting technique.
Make one or more cuts at or near the BREAKING POINT. Make as many cuts of sufficient depth as necessary to reduce the tension and make the tree or branch break at the BREAKING POINT. Never cut straight through a tree or branch that is IS in tension!


Husqvarna 55


Husqvarna AB Huskvarna, SWEDEN
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Cylinder cover. Front handle. Front hand guard. Starter cover. Chain oil tank. Starter handle. Adjuster screw, carburetor. 20. Throttle control. Choke control/Start throttle lock. Rear handle. 21. Throttle lock. Prevents accidental operation of throttle control. 23. Combination spanner. 24. Chain tensioning screw. 25. Operator's manual. 26. Bar guard. 14. Saw chain. 15. Saw bar. 16. Bumper. 17. Chain catcher. Catches chain if it jumps or breaks. 18. Clutch cover. 19. Right hand guard. Protects right hand if chain breaks or jumps.
10. Stop switch. Ignition on/off switch. 11. Fuel tank. 12. Muffler. 13. Bar tip sprocket.

24 English

Mounting guide bar and chain
Always wear gloves, when working with the chain, in order to protect your hands from injury.

Two-stroke oil

For the best results use HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil, which is especially developed for chain saws. Mixing ratio 1:50 (2%). Never use two-stroke oil intended for water cooled outboard engines, so-called, outboard oil. Never use oil intended for four-stroke engines.

Chain oil

The chain lubrication system is automatic. Always use special chain oil with good adhesive characteristics. In countries where no special chain oil is available, EP 90 transmission oil can be used. Never use waste oil. This results in damage to the oil pump, the bar and the chain. It is important to use oil of the right viscosity according to the air temperature. In temperatures below 0oC (32oF) some oils become too viscous. This can overload the oil pump and result in damage to the oil pump components. Contact your servicing dealer when choosing chain oil.

Gasoline Lit.


US gallon

0,10 0,20 0,30 0,40

US fl. oz.

2 1/1/7/8

26 English

Taking the following precautions, will lessen the risk of fire.
Do not smoke or place warm objects in the vicinity of the fuel. Always shut off the engine before refuelling. Slowly open the fuel cap, when filling fuel, so that possible overpressure is slowly released. Tighten the fuel cap carefully after fuelling. Always move the saw from the fuelling area before starting. Clean around the fuel cap. Clean the fuel and chain oil tanks regularly. The fuel filter should be changed at least once a year. Contamination in the fuel tanks causes malfunction. Make sure the fuel is well mixed by shaking the container before fuelling. The volume of chain oil and fuel tanks are adjusted to each other. Therefore, always fill chain oil and fuel at the same time.

Min 3 m (10ft)


Start and stop Start

Grip the front handle with your left hand and hold the saw down by putting your right foot in the rear handle. Pull the starter handle with your right hand and pull out the starter cord slowly until the starter pawls engage. Then pull sharply. Never wrap the starter cord around your hand. Push in the choke control immediately when the engine ignites and make repeated starting attemps. Immediately press and release the throttle when the engine starts. That will disengage the throttle latch. As the chain brake is still activated the engine must return to idling speed as soon as possible by disengaging the throttle latch in order to avoid unnecessary wear on the clutch assembly. CAUTION! Do not release the starter handle from fully pulled out position as this can cause damage on the saw. Pull the front hand guard towards the front handle. The chain brake is now disengaged. Your saw is now ready for use.


Never start the saw engine without the bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake) assembled - or else the clutch can come loose and cause personal injuries. Always move the saw away from the fueling area before starting. Place the saw on clear ground and make sure that the chain is not contacting anything. Also, make sure that you have a secure footing. Keep people and animals well away from the working area.

Cold engine

STARTING: The chain brake should be activated when starting the chain saw. Activate the chain brake by pushing the front hand guard forwards. IGNITION: Move the ignition switch to startposition. CHOKE: Set the choke control in choke position. FAST IDLE: Combined choke/fast idle is received when the choke is moved to choke position.

Warm engine

Use the same procedure as for starting cold engine but without choke. Fast idle is recived by first set the choke control in choke position, and then back again.
The engine is stopped by switching off the ignition. (Move the ignition switch to stop position.)

28 English



Your Husqvarna product has been designed and manufactured to specifications that reduce harmful emissions. After your unit has been run 8-10 tanks of fuel the engine has broken in. To ensure that your unit is at peak performance and producing the least amount of harmful emissions after break in, have your authorized servicing dealer, who has a revolution counter at his disposal, to adjust your carburetor for optimum operating conditions.


Before any adjustments are made the air filter should be clean and the cylinder cover fitted. Adjusting the carburetor while a dirty air filter is in use will result in a leaner mixture when the filter is finally cleaned. This can give rise to serious engine damage. Carefully turn the L needle to the mid point and H needle counter-clockwise against the stop. Do not attempt to adjust the needles beyond the stops as damage can occur. Now start the saw according to the starting instructions and run it warm for 10 minutes. NOTE! If the chain rotates the T screw should be turned counter-clockwise until the chain stops. Place the saw on a flat surface so that the bar points away from you and so that the bar and chain do not come into contact with the surface or other objects.

Starter device assembly

Assemble the starter device, by pulling the starter cord out first, then place the starter against the crankcase. Then slowly release the starter cord so that the pulley engages with the pawls. Assemble and tighten the screws, which hold the starter.

30 English

Air filter
The air filter must be regularly cleaned from dust and dirt in order to avoid: Carburetor malfunctions Starting problems Engine power reduction Unnecessary wear on the engine parts Abnormal fuel consumption


Clean the air filter daily or more often if the air is exceptionally dusty in the working area. Disassemble the air filter by removing the cylinder cover and unscrew the filter. When reassembling, make sure that the filter is tight against the filter holder. Clean the filter by brushing or shaking it. A more thorough cleaning of the filter is obtained by washing it in water and soap. An air filter, which is used for some time, cannot be cleaned completely. Therefore it must be replaced by a new one, with regular intervals. IMPORTANT! A damaged air filter must always be replaced.
The muffler is designed in order to reduce the noise level and to direct the exhaust gases away from the operator. The exhaust gases are hot and can contain sparks, which may cause fire if directed against dry and combustible material. Some mufflers are equipped with a special screen. If your saw has this type of muffler, you should clean the screen at least once a week. This is done with a wire brush. CAUTION! The screen must be replaced, if damaged. The saw will be overheated, if the screen is clogged. This results in damage on the cylinder and the piston. Never use a saw with a clogged or defective muffler.
The clutch drum is equipped with one of the following chain sprockets: Spur sprocket (A) (the chain sprocket is welded on the drum)

Spark plug

The spark plug condition is influenced by: An incorrect carburetor setting. Wrong fuel mixture (too much oil in the gasoline). A dirty air filter. These factors cause deposits on the spark plug electrodes, which may result in malfunction and starting difficulties. If the engine is low on power, difficult to start or runs poorly at idling speed, always check the spark plug first. If the spark plug is dirty, clean it and check the electrode gap. Readjust if necessary. The correct gap is 0,5 mm (0,020"). The spark plug should be replaced after about a month in operation or earlier if the electrodes are badly eroded. IMPORTANT! Always use the recommended spark plug type. An incorrect spark plug can severely damage the piston/cylinder.
Rim sprocket (B) (exchangeable)

0,5 mm

Both versions have built-in needle bearing at the drive shaft, whitch has to be greased regularly (once a week). NOTE! Use only high quality bearing grease or engine oil.
Cooling system Winter use

During winter time, powder snow and cold weather can cause running problems, such as: Too low engine temperature. Icing on the air filter and carburetor. To obtain the lowest possible running temperature the saw is equipped with a cooling system. The cooling system consists of: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Air intake on the starter unit. Air guide plate. Fan blades on the flywheel. Cooling fins on the cylinder.
Therefore some special measures are required: Partly reduce the air inlet of the starter and by doing that increase the engine temperature. Preheat the intake air to the carburetor by removing the special plug between the cylinder and the carburetor space.
Temperature 0C or colder:
Cylinder cowling (supplies cold air over the cylinder).
Clean the cooling system with a brush once a week, more often in demanding conditions. A dirty or blocked cooling system results in the saw overheating which causes damage to piston and cylinder.
Twist the cover flap so that preheated air from the cylinder can enter the carburetor chamber to prevent icing of the filter. Fit the rubber seal to the fuel pipe by the main air intake.
Centrifugal cleaning Air Injection
Centrifugal cleaning means the following: All air to the carburetor is carried through the starter. Dirt and dust is centrifuged away by the cooling fan. IMPORTANT! In order to keep the function of the centrifugal cleaning, a continous maintenance and care must be made. Clean the air intake to the starter, the fan wings of the flywheel, the space around the flywheel, inlet pipe and carburetor space.
Temperature -5C or colder:
If the saw is to be used in cold weather or powder snow conditions a special cover flap can be fitted to the right side of the cylinder. This restricts the flow of cold air and reduces the amount of snow that is sucked in. NOTE! If the special winterising kit has been fitted or any measures have been taken to increase the temperature these changes must be reversed before the saw is used in normal temperature conditions. Otherwise there is a risk that the saw will overheat, resulting in severe damage to the engine. IMPORTANT! Any maintenance other than that described in this manual must be carried out by your servicing dealer.

Without bar and chain, Lbs/kg 5,2/11,46


Standard bar length, inches/cm Recommended bar lengths, inches/cm Usable cutting length inches/cm Chain speed at max. power, m/sec Pitch, inch/mm Thickness of drive link, inch/mm Number of teeth on drive sprocket 15"/38 13-24"/33-60 12-23"/30,5-58,5 17,4 0,325"/8,25 3/8" /9,52 0,050"/1,3 0,058"/1,5 7

Guide bar

Length inch Pitch inch 0,325" 0,325" 0,325" 0,325" 0,325" 0,325" 0,325" 0,325" 0,325" 0,325" 3/8" 3/8" 3/8" 3/8" Max nose radius 10T 10T 10T 10T 10T 10T 10T 10T 12T 12T 11T 11T 11T 11T
Husqvarna H30 or Oregon 95VP
Husqvarna H21/H25/S24 or Oregon 21LP/21VB/34LG/34SL
Husqvarna H21 or Oregon 21LP
Husqvarna H42/S48 or Oregon 73VL/73LG/77SL
Note: For the chains above you are free to choose between 0,050" and 0,058" gauge drive link for the corresponding bar, see the table below. 0,058"/1,5mm 0,050"/1,3mm 0,058"/1,5mm 0,050"/1,3mm H30 H42 95VP S48 H25,H21 73VL 72VL S24 73LG 72LG 21VB 20VB 77SL 76SL 34LG 33LG 34SL 33SL

34 English

The EPA (The US Environmental Protection Agency), Environment Canada and Husqvarna Forest & Garden are pleased to explain the emissions control system warranty on your 2001 and later small nonroad engine. In U.S. and Canada, new small nonroad engines must be designed, built and equipped to meet the federal stringent anti-smog standards. Husqvarna Forest & Garden must warrant the emission control system on your small nonroad engine for the periods of time listed below provided there has been no abuse, neglect or improper maintenance of your unit. Your emission control system includes Parts such as the carburetor and the ignition system. Where a warrantable condition exists, Husqvarna Forest & Garden will repair your small nonroad engine at no cost to you. Expenses covered under warranty include diagnosis, parts and labor.



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