BERNINA /bernette Sewing Machines

Mastering Your BERNINA

Mastering Your BERNINA/bernette Sewing Machine

Owners Workbook

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 1/06
2006 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission to copy granted only to Authorized BERNINA Dealers

Table of Contents

Class 1 - General Information...3
Introduction... 4 Meet Your Feet.... 5 Sewing Machine Needles... 6 Thread.... 8 Stabilizers & Interfacings... 10 Samples.... 12 Product Reference List... 30 Seam Samples... 32 Hem and Edging Samples... 40 Product Reference List... 52
Class 2 - Practical Stitching... 31
Class 3 - More Practical Stitching... 53
Elastic Samples.... 54 Buttonhole & Eyelet Types & Uses... 58 Buttonhole Feet.... 59 Button & Buttonhole Samples... 60 Zipper Samples.... 70 Darning Sample.... 74 Product Reference List... 76 Gathering Samples... 78 Specialty Needle Samples... 86 Product Reference List... 94
Class 4 - Decorative Techniques... 77
Class 5 - More Decorative Techniques... 95
Decorative Technique Samples... 96 Patchwork/Quilting/BSR/Applique Samplers.. 108 Surface Embellishment Sampler... 124 Product Reference List... 128 Memory - Basic Information... 130 Function Sampler... 132 Memory Samples.... 144 Setup Program.... 164 Tutorial... 166 Creative Consultant... 167 Product Reference List... 168 Directional Stitching Samples... 170 Product Reference List... 190
Class 6 - Stitch Manipulations...129
Class 7 - Directional Stitching...169

Appendices.... 191

Class 1 General Information Class Overview
Machine Overview Parts of the machine Setting up the machine Getting ready to sew Winding a bobbin Threading the upper thread Using the needle threader Presser Feet & Accessories BERNINAs philosophy - use correct tools Specific feet for each machine Attaching the presser feet Overview of additional feet Stitch Plates Feed Dog Stitch Access How to find the stitches on your machine Making the settings for each stitch Tension Adjusting tension Stitch formation Needle Stop Adjustment Foot control Needle Stop Up/Down function Correct use of handwheel Sewing Machine Needles Types of needles Sizes of needles Parts of needle Matching needle and thread Sewing Thread Good quality vs. poor quality Fibers and weight Thread storage ideas Stabilizers & Interfacing Difference between the two Different types and applications Sewing sprays Samples 1 Straight Stitch/Seaming 2 Needle Positions 3 Securing Stitches 4 Stitching Corners 5 Zigzag/Oversewing Edges 6 Satin Stitch 7 Topstitch/Edgestitch 8 Basting 9 Temporary Altered Stitch Memory Care and Cleaning of the Machine Cleaning the feed dog and needle areas Cleaning and lubricating the hook Cleaning the outside of the machine This class is formatted for owners of the following BERNINA sewing machine models: classic 1008 activa 220 activa 230PE activa 240 aurora 430 aurora 440QE artista 630 artista 640 artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed This class is also formatted for owners of the following bernette sewing machine models: 80e 90e

Introduction

Congratulations on your purchase of a BERNINA or bernette for BERNINA sewing machine! This workbook is designed to be used in conjunction with the Owners Classes you will take at your BERNINA dealership, and contains a series of exercises intended to familiarize you with the features of your new BERNINA or bernette sewing machine. In addition, you will learn about needles, threads, stabilizers, interfacing, presser feet and accessories, all of which will increase your knowledge of sewing and assist you in achieving success in all of your sewing endeavors. Once you have completed the exercises designated for your BERNINA or bernette machine, attach the sewn samples to the indicated pages and insert the pages into plastic page protectors and store them in a 3-ring binder. They can then be used as a reference tool in the future as you use your machine and explore the creative possibilities it affords you. BERNINA of America, Inc. strives to provide its customers not just with quality sewing machines, but with informative publications and classes. Along with providing Owners Classes, your local BERNINA dealer stocks BERNINA books and magazines, such as Feetures and Through the Needle. Plus, BERNINA of America, Inc. has a website www.berninausa.com offering free projects, basic sewing information, a glossary of sewing terms, inspirational stories, interviews with creative stitchers, and a variety of articles and postings that appeal to all types of stitchers, no matter which machines are their favorites. Learn to use your BERNINA or bernette machine to its full extent and enjoy being creative with fabric and thread! My BERNINA or bernette sewing machine model is: _______________ Serial Number: _________________ I purchased it on: ________________ at ____________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________

Universal 60-120 A compromise between a sharp and a ballpoint needle; can be used on both wovens and knits. 60 very fine batiste 70 broadcloth 80 trigger and gabardine 90 denim and twill 100/110/120 canvas Double 1.6/70- Two needles attached to one shank. Universal 8.0/100 Used for pintucks, hems, and decorative work. Triple (Drilling) Jeans 2.5/90 3.0/90 Three needles attached to one shank. Used to create mock smocking and other decorative effects.
70-110 Has a sharp point and a shaft that is less prone to flex. The sharpness of the needles makes it better for use on denim and woven fabrics where a clean stitch is desired. 4.0/80 Two Jeans needles attached to one shank. For topstitching on denim with heavy thread; can also be used for decorative stitching with metallic thread. Double Wing Metallica Metallica Double

100 & 110

Jeans Double

70-90 2.0/80 2.0/80

Leather
80-100 Point is a sharp cutting wedge. Used for leather only. Not for vinyl or simulated leathers.

Thread

Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a seesaw action before it forms a single stitch. Poor quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions. Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with todays fabrics for fine stitches. Staple refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1 to 2 long while European threads use 5 to 6 lengths. Ply number of strands twisted together to make a single thread. Roll the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching, causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll. Twist the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in seams. Right twist most American threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling. This gives average stitch quality. Left twist Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for the hook point to enter, reducing skipped stitches.
Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics. Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen. Fiber refers to the type of material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads: Polyester 2 ply such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450 Fahrenheit. Polyester 3 ply cordonnet topstitching or buttonhole twist such as Mettler 30/3. Cotton 2 ply such as Mettler 60/2 excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate machine embroidery, piecing and darning. Cotton 2 ply such as Mettler 30/2 loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine embroidery, applique, and buttonholes. Cotton 3 ply such as Mettler 50/3 excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers. Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton thread stretches less than polyester. Rayon a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only. Polyester 2 ply embroidery thread Isacord and Polysheen embroidery thread excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant. Thread Storage Thread does deteriorate with age and should be stored with care to keep it usable as long as possible. Extreme moisture may cause thread to swell while very dry conditions can leave it dry and brittle as it ages. Store thread in a covered container (thread box with a lid, cabinet with doors, or drawers that close) if possible to keep it dustfree. Be wary of old spools of thread recovered from Grandmas sewing box. The fibers may be so weak and brittle that even if it sews into a seam, it may be so unstable that the garment or project will not hold together and the life of the project may be considerably shortened.

Needle Positions Sample

Straight Stitch Needle Position Range
2.5-5mm 3.5-7mm 3.5-7mm 3.5-7mm
Straight Stitch Needle Positions Pattern Repeat Function Needle Down/Up Function --

Securing Stitches

Fabric..4 pieces firm, woven fabric, each 4 x 6 Needle.. 90/14 Universal Thread.. 30 wt. cotton embroidery, contrasting color Presser Foot. BERNINA Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or #1C... bernette Zigzag/Universal Foot Additional Accessories.. Quilting/Seam Guide... Seam Guide with Rulers.. bernette Seam Guide Bar Stitches... straight. securing stitch and/or quilters securing stitch... feather Stitch Needle Position... center
Row 1 - Straight Stitch: Find the 5/8 guide line on the stitch plate. [Not available on bernette 55.] Fold one piece of fabric in half lengthwise. Place it under the presser foot; align one 6 edge with the 5/8 guide line. Select straight stitch. Sew a few stitches forward, then press the Quick Reverse Button/Lever; sew a few stitches backward; machine will sew in reverse until the Quick Reverse Button/Lever is released. Continue stitching the seam; secure the end in the same way. BERNINA models only: Row 2 - Securing Stitch or Quilters Securing Stitch: Attach the Quilting/Seam Guide or Seam Guide with Rulers to the foot. Set the guide 5/8 from the center needle position. Fold another piece of fabric; align the raw edges with the guide. Select the Securing Stitch. Begin to sew; machine will automatically secure the stitching, then continue stitching forward. At the end of the seam, press and release the Quick Reverse button. The machine will automatically secure the stitching, then stop. Sample 3 - Securing Function: Place remaining two fabric pieces wrong sides together. Attach one of the Seam Guides with Rulers to presser foot. Set guide 2 from needle; select a feather stitch. Engage the Securing Function, if available; machine will automatically secure the stitches at beginning of stitching. Re-engage when approaching the end of the stitching; machine will automatically secure the stitching at the end of the current stitch pattern (630/640 will stop stitching as well).
Securing Stitch: Five straight stitches forward and back at beginning; five stitches backward and forward at end. Quilters Securing Stitch: Several very short stitches at beginning and end of straight stitching. Securing Function: Several very short stitches at beginning/end of stitching; can be applied to decorative as well as straight stitches.

BERNINA electronic models only
Temporary Altered Stitch Memory Sample
Heart Stitch Pattern End Mirror Image Pattern Extend -----

artista 630/640/730

156 yes yes -yes

32 ---yes

46 yes --yes

85 yes yes -yes

127 yes yes -yes

712 yes yes yes yes

Temporary -Stitch Memory
Class 1 Product Reference List General Information
Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3 BERNINA Embroidery Foot #6 BERNINA Darning Foot #9 BERNINA Edgestitch Foot #10 or BERNINA Edgestitch Foot #10C BERNINA Open Embroidery Foot #20 or BERNINA Open Embroidery Foot #20C BERNINA Clear Embroidery Foot #39 bernette Satin Stitch Foot Deluxe Accessory Box Thread Storage Box Bobbins Magnetic Pin Cushion Magnetic Bobbin Holder Straight Stitch Plate Seam Sealant Thread Stand Supplementary Thread Guide Multi-Spool Thread Holder Left Seam Guide Seam Guide with Rulers (right and left) Magnifying Lens Set Suitcase System Needles Universal Double Wing Embroidery Quilting Stretch Ballpoint OESD Stabilizers Aqua Film (topping, backing) Aqua Mesh Aqua Mesh Plus (adhesive-backed) Tear-Away (lightweight, medium weight) Hydro-Stick Tear-Away Stabil-Stick Tear-Away Cut-Away (heavy weight) Xtra Heavyweight Cut-Away Hydro-Stick Cut-Away Stabil-Stick Cut-Away Poly Mesh Fusible Poly Mesh HRFive Temporary Adhesive Spray 606 Spray and Fix Fabric Shield Thread Isacord Polyester YLI (variety) Mettler Cotton Embroidery Mettler Metrosene Polyester Mettler Silk-finish Cotton Quilters Resource Nifty Notions Scissors Dressmakers shears Trimming scissors Applique Scissors
60/70/80/90/100/110/120 1.6/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0/6.0/8.0 Single/Double 75/90 75/90 70/75/80/90 60/70/80/90/100
Class 2 Practical Stitching Class Overview
Stretch Seam Samples 1 Zigzag Seam 2 Super Stretch Seam 3 Vari-Overlock Seam 4 Flat Joining Seam Hem & Edging Samples 5 Blind Hem 6 Handpicked Hem 7 Double Needle Hem 8 Jeans Hem 9 Shell Edge 10 Rolled and Whipped Edge
This class is formatted for owners of the following BERNINA sewing machine models: classic 1008 activa 220 activa 230PE activa 240 aurora 430 aurora 440QE artista 630 artista 640 artista 730 & 200 with 730 upgrade installed
This class is also formatted for owners of the following bernette sewing machine models: 80e 90e MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 1/06

Select the Shell Hem stitch (stitch width = 4mm; leave stitch length at default setting). Increase/tighten the upper thread tension to 6-8.
Pull on the fabric a bit to see which way the edge curls. Be sure to hem with the curl rather than against it. Place the Aqua Film under the edge of the hem, extending about 2 beyond the back edge of the fabric; baste layers together along the back edge. Twirl the stabilizer into the scroll of the hemmer foot the Aqua Film is stiff enough to easily move into the coil. Begin stitching, using the Aqua Film to guide the fabric edge into the coil of the foot. If necessary, increase/tighten the needle thread tension to create more defined scallops. Remember to return to normal setting after completing this sample. Trim and mount the sample.

Shell Edge Sample

Shell Hem Stitch

Rolled and Whipped Edge

Fabric.. lightweight cotton, 6 x 4 Needle.. 80/12 Universal Thread... all-purpose Presser Foot. BERNINA Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C... bernette Clear Satin Stitch Foot Stitch.... zigzag Needle Position... left Clean one 6 lengthwise edge of whiskers Select the Zigzag Stitch (BERNINA SW = 2.5mm and SL = 1mm or less; bernette SW = 3.5mm and SL = buttonhole setting). Loosen the top tension if necessary. BERNINA Place cut edge of fabric between the center and left toes of the presser foot and sew.
Place cut edge of fabric against the inside of the right toe of the foot and sew.
Notes: - The left swing of the needle should be in the fabric, while the right swing falls off of the right edge of the fabric. - As needle swings left, it should roll fabric into a tiny rolled edge. - The finer the fabric, the finer the needle and thread used. Trim and mount the sample. This edge finish is used on a single thickness of fine lightweight fabrics. It is also use as a seam finish or as an edge on ruffles, hems, etc.
Rolled and Whipped Edge Sample
Class 2 Product Reference List Practical Stitching
Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3 BERNINA Vari-Overlock Foot #2 or BERNINA Vari-Overlock Foot #2A BERNINA Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 or BERNINA Standard Buttonhole Foot #3C BERNINA Jeans Foot #8 BERNINA Edgestitch Foot #10 or BERNINA Edgestitch Foot #10C BERNINA Clear Foot #34 or BERNINA Clear Foot #34C BERNINA Shell Hemmer Foot #69 bernette Clear Satin Stitch Foot bernette Blind Hem Foot bernette Overcasting Foot bernette Quilting Foot bernette Hemmer Foot Stitch Witchery - 5/8 roll Rotary Cutter Rotary Cutting Mat Clear, Gridded Ruler Aqua Film Stabilizer Thread All-Purpose Mettler 60 weight Cotton Embroidery Double Needles 2.0mm 2.5mm 3.0mm 4.0mm 6.0mm (artista 640 and 730 only) 8.0mm (artista 640 and 730 only) Jeans Needles 90/14 100/16 Double Seam Pressing Tools BERNINA Iron Seam Pressing Stick Hem Gauges Curved Hem Ruler 6 Sewing Gauge

Insert the Double needle and thread with 2 different colors. Use the auxilliary spool pin for the second spool and skip the thread guide just above the needle Select the straight stitch; adjust length to 1.75mm-2mm. Adjust needle position to maximum stitch width see chart at right. Parallel Pintucks Start sewing in one corner and meander across fabric. Sew 5-6 more rows evenly spaced across corner of the fabric. Position previous tuck against edge of foot
Tips Sew at a slower speed and test movement of the needle, making sure that it doesnt hit the presser foot. Tighten top tension to create more dimension. * Choose the correct needle: BERNINA Pintuck Foot #groove: 4mm needle BERNINA Pintuck Foot #groove: 2.5 or 3mm needle BERNINA Pintuck Foot #groove: 2mm needle BERNINA Pintuck Foot #groove: 1.6 needle bernette 55 satin stitch foot 2.0 needle = 2.5mm max SW 3.0 needle = 2mm max SW bernette 65, 80e, 90e satin stitch foot 2.0 needle = 4mm max SW 3.0 needle = 4mm max SW 86
Corded Pintucks Thread machine, using the same thread in both needles and the bobbin. BERNINA only: Thread cord through the hole in the needle plate. It is not possible, with a double needle, to turn completely around a corner in one step. To turn corners, use the following steps: bernette only: Remove accessory table; use center needle position - Sew to corner; needle in fabric, drop feed dogs. - Turn 45, take 1 stitch, lower needles into fabric, turn another 45. - Raise feed dogs and continue. Sew four random corners. Sew 2 points as on a leaf or star. - Sew to corner; needle up. - Pivot work carefully and lower needles back into same place. Decorative Pintucks Select desired decorative stitches; stitch several rows of pintucks.
Pintucks & Double Needles Sample
Scallop Stitch Square Stitch Decorative Stitch
Feather Stitch Running Stitch -7

Straight -Stitch Scallop

Triple (Drilling) Needle
Fabric.. firmly woven, 6 x 8 Stabilizer.. firm tear-away or cut-away, 6 x 8 Needle... Triple (3.0mm) Thread.. Isacord embroidery thread, 3 different colors Presser Foot. BERNINA Clear Foot #34/#34C or.. BERNINA Open Embroidery Foot #20/#20C

Wing Needle/Double Wing Needle Sample
Wing Needle Stitch Options Double Wing Needle Stitch Options

80e S10 S8 SSS8 8

90e S11 S8 SSS8 8
Wing Needle Stitch Options Double Wing Needle Stitch Options 4 -4

50/141 --

45/161 720/329 720/329 720/-719 security 719 security 733 security
Specialty -Needle Function

Entredeux

Fabric.. cotton organdy, 8 x 6 Notions.. heavy cotton thread for cording Stabilizer.. spray starch and/or water soluble stabilizer Needle... Wing, size 100 Thread..60 weight cotton Presser Foot.. BERNINA Cording Foot #25 Stitch... straight Needle Position... center Insert Wing needle. If available, engage the Security Program, selecting the Wing needle option. This alters the stitch width so that the wings of the needle will not hit the presser foot; also constrains stitches to the center needle position. Select the entreduex or star stitch; adjust stitch length to 3mm. Attach Cording Foot #25, but do not load cord into the guides at this time. Stitch a row of entredeux. Load Cording Foot #25 with lengths of heavy cotton thread in grooves 2 and 4. Stitch a second row of entredeux. As the hemstitching is sewn, the heavy cotton threads fill the outer edges of the stitching, creating a stitch that looks very similar to fine, purchased endredeux. Trim and mount sample.

Entreduex Sample

Star/Pattern Stitch Entredeux Stitch ---

126 118

155 147

711 701

Class 4 Product Reference List Decorative Techniques
Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3 BERNINA Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 or BERNINA Standard Buttonhole Foot #3C Embroidery Foot #6 Wide Gathering Foot #16 or Extra Wide Gathering Foot #16 BERNINA Open Embroidery Foot #20 or BERNINA Open Embroidery Foot #20C BERNINA 3-Groove Cording Foot #22 BERNINA 5-Groove Cording Foot #25 Pintuck Feet #30 - 3 groove #31 - 5 groove #32 - 7 groove #33 - 9 groove BERNINA Clear Foot #34 or BERNINA Clear Foot #34C Clear Embroidery Foot #39 Ruffler Attachment #86 bernette Cording Foot bernette Gathering Foot bernette Satin Stitch Foot Needles Double Needles (1.6/70, 1.6/80, 2.0/80, 2.5/80, 3.0/80, 4.0/80, 3.0/90, 4.0/90, 4.0/100, 6.0/100, 8.0/100) Triple (or Drilling) Needles (2.5/80, 3.0/80) Wing Needle (100/16, 120/20) Double Wing Needle (100/16) Guide Bar Set with Rulers Wavy Rotary Cutter Ruler Cutting Mat BERNINA Iron Elastic Thread Gimp Cord or Pearl Crown Rayon Spray Sizing
Class 5 More Decorative Techniques Class Overview
Decorative Detail Samples 1 Pleats and Tucks 2 Off-the-Edge Scallops 3 Lace Insertion 4 Fagoting and Bundling 5 Fringing 6 Piping Embellishment Samples 7 Patchwork/Quilting 8 Applique 9 Surface Embellishment Crazy Patchwork Decorative Stitching Bobbinwork Couching

Off the Edge Tip: Stitch N Ditch Heirloom Stabilizer is very thin, crisp, and easy to tear, which makes it perfect for off-the-edge techniques. 98
Off-the-Edge Scallops Sample
Straight Stitch Satin Stitch Scallop 1 8

Lace Insertion

Fabric.. lightweight cotton 4 x 6 Notions.. 9 insertion lace, - wide Needle.. 70/10 Universal Thread... 60 weight cotton Presser Foot. BERNINA Edgestitch #10/10C.. bernette blindhem foot Stitch... straight Needle Position...half left, half right
First Run: Pin or spray-baste lace in position on top of fabric. Select straight stitch; adjust length to 1.5mm-2mm.
BERNINA Move needle to half left (artista 640 & 730: adjust needle one position to left). Align left edge of lace with blade; sew.
Move white blade 1/8 from the needle). Align right edge of lace with guide; sew. Turn fabric 180 and sew the right side in the same manner.
Sew the right side in the same manner using the half right needle position (artista 640 & 730: adjust needle one position to right).
From the back, carefully cut through fabric, between the two rows of stitching, leaving lace intact. Press fabric back against the straight stitch. Second Run: Select zigzag stitch; SW = 1.5-2mm and SL = 0.75-1mm.
BERNINA Move needle to half left (640/730: adjust needle one position to left).
Place edge of lace first to the right of the blade, and zigzag over the edge of the lace and the previously sewn straight stitch. Turn fabric 180 and sew the right side in the same manner.
Place edge of lace first to the left of the guide, and zigzag over the edge of the lace and previously sewn straight stitch. Sew right side in the same way, using a half right needle position (artista 640/730: adjust needle one position to right).
Trim surplus fabric from wrong side. Trim and mount sample. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/05

Lace Insertion Sample

Straight Stitch Zigzag Stitch
Straight Stitch Zigzag Stitch 1 2

Fagoting & Bundling

Fabric.. firm fabric, 2 pieces, 4 x 6 each Needle... 90/14 Embroidery Thread... embroidery Presser Foot.. BERNINA Tailor Tack Foot #7.. BERNINA Open Embroidery Foot #20/20C.. BERNINA Clear Foot #34/34C Stitches... zigzag.. decorative stitches as desired...triple straight Needle Position... center

Fold wrong side of bias strip around filler cord and position it under the presser foot with folded edge to the left and the cord under the left side of the foot. Using a straight stitch with needle in the center position, begin stitching. Stitches will be sewn alongside cord, creating a 5/8 seam. Trim seam allowance if necessary.

bernette Covered Piping

Once piping is covered, it is ready to be inserted into a seam. Cut the other piece of fabric in half, making two 2 x 6 pieces. Inserting Piping Matching raw edges, place piping right sides together with one long fabric edge. Place second piece right sides together with piping and first piece. BERNINA Position fabric/piping under presser foot; adjust needle one position closer to center. Note: By adjusting the needle position, the previous stitching will not be seen on the finished project.
Position fabric/piping under left side of presser foot; adjust guide to left.
Covered Cord Tips: Fabric strips should be cut 1 plus the circumference of the cord being used. Trim the 2 strip, if needed, to work with the cording being used. This should result in a 5/8 seam allowance on the finished piping. Strips for covering cord are generally cut on the bias (diagonal); however, crosswise and lengthwise strips may be used if there are no corners to be turned or curves to maneuver. 106

Piping Sample

Patchwork/Quilting
Fabrics.. medium print cotton, one 4 x 8 center strip. solid print cotton, two 4 x 8 strips. print cotton, one 8 x 12 square (backing) Stabilizer.. thin cotton batting, 8 x 12.. temporary adhesive spray (ex: HRFive) Needle...90/14 Quilting Thread.. 30 weight cotton thread.. clear monofilament (invisible thread) Presser Feet. BERNINA Patchwork Foot #37 or.. BERNINA Patchwork Foot with Guide #57.. BERNINA Walking Foot #50.. BERNINA Leather Roller Foot #55. BERNINA Freemotion Quilting Foot #29/29C... bernette quilting foot... bernette walking foot.. bernette darning/embroidery foot Stitches.. straight, hand-look quilting Needle Position... center Patchwork BERNINA Seam solid strips to each side of center print strip using Patchwork Foot #37 or Patchwork Foot with Guide #57 and a seam allowance. Press seams to sides.
Seam solid strips to each side of center print strip using the mark at the right of the right toe of the quilting foot and a seam allowance. Press seams to sides.
Create a quilt sandwich by placing batting between patchwork and backing square, wrong sides to the batting. Use a temporary adhesive spray such as HRFive to baste the layers together.
Quilting In-the-Ditch Attach walking foot to sewing machine. Select straight stitch. Stitch in the ditch of the seams between blocks or pieces. Hand-Look Quilting Stitch (BERNINA electronic & bernette 80e & 90e machines only) Attach the walking foot to the sewing machine. Insert a bobbin of colorful 30 weight cotton thread into the machine; thread the needle with clear monofilament thread. Select hand-look quilting stitch. Stitch along outer edge of the patchwork seams, about 1/8 to from the seamline. Increase tension as necessary; bobbin threads should pull to surface to form stitches; monofilament creates spaces between stitches. Stippling Thread the needle with cotton quilting thread. Select straight stitch and lower the feed dog. BERNINA Attach Freemotion Quilting Foot #29/29C to the machine.

Stitching Center Motif The center motif is about 4 long. Draw a line through the center of the stitched rectangle to use as a guide. Select the Multi-Function button. Select the Preview option. Scroll to move the cursor just to the right of the second tulip in the second section of the stitch combination. Notice that every stitch in the combination is numbered. Select the 9th stitch (tulip). When the stitch is selected, the Preview screen auto-matically closes. The artista will begin stitching at the beginning of stitch nine (unless the cursor is moved again). Sew; the artista will stitch the end of the combination and automatically begin sewing it a second time. Sew, watching stitching. After the tulip begins stitching, press the Pattern End button on the front of the artista; sewing will stop at the end of the tulip.

Setup Program

The Setup Program allows personalization of your sewing system to reflect your sewing style, needs, and preferences. To access, press the external Setup button. Display > Brightness & Display > Contrast adjust the appearance of the screen for the lighting conditions in your sewing area Display > Welcome Text change greeting Sewing Setting > Sewing Light (artista 730 only) turn sewing light off/on Sewing Settings > Motor Speed adjust the overall sewing speed of your sewing system Note: the artista has a separate motor speed screen for embroidery; to access, touch the Embroidery Settings symbol Sewing Settings > Thread Tension (artista 640 & 730 only) adjust the overall tension setting of your sewing system Note: the artista 640 & 730 have a separate tension screen for embroidery; to access, touch the Embroidery Settings symbol Customize Favorite Function (artista 730 only) assign function of your choice to the Favorite Function button Touch > Calibrate calibrate the touch screen of your sewing system Software & Language access information on the software version installed in your sewing machine and embroidery module

Sewing Tension

(artista 640 & 730 only) The tension of BERNINA sewing machines is factory set for the best all around results using Mettler polyester Metrosene thread in the needle and bobbin. If you regularly use other types of thread, you may find it useful to adjust your tension settings using the Thread Tension Adjustment in the Setup Screen. 164
Setup Program - continued

Class 6 Product Reference List Stitch Manipulations
Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3 BERNINA Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A/C BERNINA Open Embroidery Foot #20 or BERNINA Open Embroidery Foot #20C BERNINA Clear Foot #34 or BERNINA Clear Foot #34/C BERNINA Iron HRFive Temporary Adhesive Spray Thread Stand Threads 30 weight cotton embroidery thread Gimp cord or YLI Pearl Crown Rayon Needles Microtex Sharp Embroidery Double
Class 7 Directional Stitching Class Overview
Directional Stitching 1 4-Directional Stitching 2 Directional Stitching 3 Freeform Directional Stitching 4 All-Over Directional Stitching 5 Trailing Tulip Vines 6 Monogram 7 Scalloped Edge 8 Stacked Scallop Edge 9 Directional Quilting 10 Directional Baubles
This class is formatted for owners of the following model of BERNINA sewing machines: artista 730

4- Directional Stitching

(artista 730 only)
Fabric... firm fabric, 6 x 6.. firm cotton for patch, 2 x 2 Stabilizer...heavyweight tear-away, 6 x 6 Needle... 90/14 Embroidery Thread... 30 weight cotton embroidery Presser Foot.. Sideways Motion Foot #40C Stitch... directional blanket stitch (#46) Needle Position... as directed Position and bond the fabric patch in the center of the fabric square using 606 fusible adhesive spray. Draw a line from each side of the patch, forming a rectangle. This is the stitching line. Press the decorative stitch menu icon at the right side of the screen, then select the 4-directional stitching category. Select stitch #46 (directional blanket stitch), then select the forward (down) direction. Activate the Needle Down function. Position the presser foot on the drawn line at the right side of the patch, aligning the center mark on the foot with the line, and positioning the needle at the upper right corner of the patch. Sew forward (down), stopping at the lower right corner of the drawn rectangle. Select the left direction. Sew, lightly guiding the fabric to keep the sideways stitching on the drawn line. Stop when the needle reaches the lower left corner of the drawn rectangle. Select the backward (up) direction. Sew, keeping the stitching line centered under the center mark on the foot. Stop at the upper left corner of the drawn rectangle. Select the right direction. Sew, lightly guiding the fabric to keep the sideways stitching on the drawn line. Stop when the needle reaches the upper right corner of the drawn rectangle, completing the stitching. Bring the thread tails to the wrong side of the sample; tie by hand. Fringe the edges of the patch between the stitching and the outer edge of the patch. Trim and mount the sample. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA /bernette SEWING MACHINE 8/05
4- Directional Stitching Sample
16 - Directional Stitching
Fabric... firm fabric, 6 x 6 Stabilizer... heavyweight tear-away, 6 x 6 Needle... 90/14 Embroidery Thread.. 30 weight cotton embroidery Presser Foot.. Sideways Motion Foot #40C Stitch... directional zigzag Needle Position... center Mark the center of the square of fabric. Place stabilizer behind fabric, bonding with a light application of HRFive adhesive. Press the decorative stitch menu icon at the right side of the screen, then select the 16-directional stitching folder. The stitch direction is chosen by pressing the clockwise and counterclockwise arrows; the red line indicates the stitch direction. Starting at the center of the fabric, stitch all 16 directions using the preprogrammed directional zigzag stitch #40. Note that the directional zigzag is a satin stitch, and that the stitch formation that changes depending on the sewing direction. Trim and mount the sample.

Directional Quilting Sample

Directional Baubles

Fabric.. firm, woven fabric, 8 x 12 Stabilizer.. heavyweight tear-away, 8 x 12 Needle... 90/14 Embroidery Thread.. 30 weight cotton embroidery Presser Foot.. Sideways Motion Foot #40C Stitch... as indicated Needle Position... center
This is a fun and different way to use the artista 730s directional capabilities. It makes use of the Sub-Divider 2 feature, which acts as a stop within a combination. A Sub-Divider 2 also allows you to continue sewing other parts of a stored stitch combination.
Select Combi Mode. Program the following combination of stitches:
- stitch #654, stitch length = 2mm - stitch #651 - stitch #654, SL=2, Up/Down Mirror Image - Sub-Divider 2 - stitch #39, direction 4- 3x - Sub-Divider 2 - stitch #431 - Sub-Divider 2 Save to an empty file drawer. Place the stabilizer under the fabric. Begin sewing the motif. After the first three patterns have been stitched the artista 730 will automatically stop at the Sub-Divider 2. Release the foot control, then begin sewing again. The artista 730 automatically moves to the directional section of the combination, then stops at the next Sub-Divider 2. Release the foot control. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric 180. Resume stitching; the next stitch pattern stitches over the previous directional stitching. Again, the artista stops automatically at the end of the stitch pattern. Pivot 90 and continue sewing the combination as shown. Repeat to create an interesting linear embellishment. Trim and mount sample.
Directional Baubles Sample
Class 7 Product Reference List Directional Stitching
Feet-ures, Volumes 1, 2, and 3 Sideways Motion Foot #40C Embroidery Foot #6 Clear Embroidery Foot #39 BERNINA Iron Thread Mettler 30 weight Cotton Embroidery Needles Embroidery Microtex Sharp Stabilizers OESD Heavyweight Tear-Away OESD Heavyweight Cut-Away OESD Aqua Film HRFive Spray Adhesive Nifty Notions Cut for the Cure Rulers Rotary Cutter and Mat Temporary/Wash-Away Fabric Markers
Appendix Stitch & Function Charts
Practical Stitch Chart Selected Decorative/Quilting Stitches Chart Selected Functions/Features Function Icons & External Buttons artista 630 artista 640 artista 730
Owners Manual References Practical Stitch Chart

Practical Stitches

Straight Stitch Zigzag Stitch Vari-Overlock Running Stitch Securing Stitch Quilters Securing St. Triple Straight Stitch Triple Zigzag Honey comb Blindstitch Double Overlock Super Stretch Gathering (Bridging) Stretch Overlock / Towelling Jersey Stitch Universal Stitch Sewn-Out Zigzag Lycra Stitch Stretch Stitch Reinforced Overlock Knit Overlock Basting Stitch

Length On-Screen Measurement Manual Stitch Counter
Alphabet Size (size 1 active) Upper case/Lower case Monogram Size (size 1 active)
Security Program Continuous Reverse Securing Function Pattern Repeat 1-9x Motor Speed Stitch Selection by Number

Head Frame

Automatic Thread Cutter -1 Favorite Function Button - 2 Pattern End Button - 3 Quick Reverse Button - 4

Machine Right Front

Needle Position Buttons -1 Creative Consultant - 2

4 Clear Button- 3

Tutorial - 4

5 Setup Button - 5