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Elna SU Manual

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User reviews and opinions

Comments to date: 6. Page 1 of 1. Average Rating:
Baerbel, GERMANY 6:35pm on Friday, July 29th, 2011 
Having worked with this machine for about 45 years wirhout any problems now the motor has failed.
Lesley B 9:14pm on Sunday, November 7th, 2010
I was given my Elna Supermatic for my 21st birthday in 1972 and it's still going strong, even though the enamel is chipped in places after nearly 40 years of heavy use.I've made clothes, curtains loose covers, fitted covers for a sofa, quilts............ I thought it was broken so I recently bought a Janome Horizon which does 200 odd stitches. I couldn't bear to part with my elna so my husband checked it out and the problem was a screw had worked free. He fixed it and its running again- for free embroidery my old Elna beats the Janome hands down!
teawa 7:25am on Sunday, October 31st, 2010 
best machine ever
marge 12:11am on Tuesday, October 19th, 2010 
machine is fine works fine easy to use enjoy it for all minor sewing price was right
Wendy 10:32pm on Friday, September 10th, 2010 
just received this sewing maching as a donation to my adult day training program. We are making pillow cases for children with cancer. Looking forward to getting started...need manual.
Don Hanacock 12:24am on Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 
I bought this machine used at a great price and found it sews very well the only problem with the machine is the dial the controls the needle placment is seized up. I will take it in to my Bernina dealer for repair though as he works on the Elna as well.

Comments posted on are solely the views and opinions of the people posting them and do not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of us.





Dear User, The Instruction Booklet shows you how to operate your Elna. This Sewing Guide contains practical hints for easy sewing. It will help you to get the best out of your Elna and spend many happy hours with it. For an: Elna EC (Economic) Elna Plana EC (Economic) Elna ZZ (Zig Zag) Elna Plana ZZ (Zig Zag) Elna SP (Special) Elina Plana SP (Special) Elna ST (Star) Elna Plana ST (Star) Elna SU (Super) Elina Plana SU (Super) Other types of sewing and special accessories If you want to look something up in a hurry, consult the Index. Model No. 11 Model No. 13 Model No. 21 Model No. 23 Model No. 31 Model No. 33 Model No. 41 Model No. 43 Model No. 62 Model No. 64 Consult pages

1- 34 1- 38

50- 57 58-60
Although far from being exhaustive, the Guide gives you a good idea of the wide range of possibilities for practical and decorative sewing that are available to you, either by using the standard equipment of your machine, or by acquiring one of the additional extra accessories. Remember to inquire regularly at Etna shops and you will constantly make interesting discoveries.

Thread and Needle

It is preferable to use good quality dull or mercerized thread, For darning, use fine left-twist thread, because it is stronger. Remember that a dry thread becomes brittle. The best sewing machine will give poor results with a bad needle. A golden rule: Select the thread according to the type of work and material, and the needle according to the thread: darning, sewing or embroidery thread depending on the fineness, durability or appearance desired for the work in hand. For synthetic (nylon), elastic or metallic thread, it is usually best to reduce the upper tension. First get used to simple sewing, and you will get more out of other Elna possibilities later on. The type of thread or needle size will be referred to subsequently only in special cases.


To simplify the explanations, the sewing feet and adjustments are shown by the following symbols (fig. 1-2) Stitch selector and stitch number (1)
Elna-disc No. (2) Stitch width (3) Stitch length (4) Sewing foot

: 1 Example:

Embroidery/buttonhole foot Darning foot

Cith 1


o1.1 zigzag stitch

Explanation: Sewing foot Selector at Stitch width 2 to 3 Stitch length 1 to 14

/ThA Q152 X

Explanation: Embroidery/buttonhole foot Selector at A Etna-disc 152 Stitch width 4 Stitch length A N.B.: Obviously, with the Elna EC machine only the straight stitch, and with the Elna ZZ machine only the straight stitch and zigzag stitch are used.


Materials Conan Sheer Used (darning) Ordinary Medium Weight Thick Weave & HoavV Sheets 120-100 D20ning 100-60' 80-40'
Thmads l Synhetic Sik Fibres Sowing Darning Sewing Sewing Sowing Darning Sewing Sawing eig
| Ho~~~~~~~~Nedle Sizes Sysem 10705 H 1tI 60-70 -10

01 -T04110

Sizes may change depending cn the countr. Or the system 705

#6 #~~,.,,,3

Universal Thread Tensions
Universal tensions enable you to do most of your sewing without changing the tension,.e. Lower Tension Red number 1 faces the lever-fig. 3 Upper Tension Red number 5 faces guide mark I"-fig. 4. If the upper tension needs to be altered (nylon or metallic thread, special sewing, etc), turn the tension dial.
Correct tension: the threads are locked properly between the two layers of material-fig. 5. Upper tension too strong: the lower thread is visible on top of the material, Reduce the tension by turning the knob to between 5 and 1 (thinner lines)-fig. 6. Upper tension too weak: the upper thread is visible underneath the material. Increase the tension by turning the knob to between 5 and 9 (thicker lines)-fig. 7. If the lower tension needs altering (nylon or elastic, thread, hem-stitching, etc.), turn the graduated screw with the screwdriver. The graduation marks allow you to revert easily to the universal tension-fig. 3. If you try out the tensions for a special sewing job, use a double thickness of material (not a single one), as will be the case when you actually start sewing.


Pages 6 to 11 deal mainly with straight sewing and apply to all Elna sewing machines.

Straight Sewing - fig. 8

This is generally no problem, but remember to adapt your stitch length to the type of material. Fine material; fairly short stitches. Medium or heavy material longer stitches. Only guide the work, without holding it back or pulling it.
The stitches are too long

fig. 9

Stitch lengths between 2 and 3, for example, may cause fine material to gather. Reduce the stitch length to between 1 and 1%' and your sewing will be correct.


Thicknesses - fig. 10
M X _ (0 2-4 necessary, it is possible to lift the foot in order to place especially 11 thick pieces of work underneath it. Do not forget to lower the foot lever again, otherwise your sewing will not be satisfactory.

fig 11lr

For sewing coarse pleats or across seams
Guide the work as shown in the illustration, It will slide easily under the foot.
Gathering with Elastic Threadfig. 12-13-14

1 11t't

Wind elastic thread (Lastex) onto the bobbin and thread it into
the lower tension. - fig. 12.
The upper thread should be a good quality sewing or embroidery thread. Make a trial. Trho gathers will be more pronounced with a long stitch (if necessary, increase the upper tension). The material needed will be about twice as long as the finished
Itis possible to sew two, three or more rows of gathers. This method can also be used for smocking. If necessary, a sheet of paper may be placed on the material to hold it in place during sewing. Tear off the paper after sewing. Wrong side

- fig.

Right side

fig. 14



fig 15
When gathering a fine or medium material you can make use of the stitch length and, if necessary, of the tensions. Set the maximum stitch length 4 and a very weak upper tension. Sew two parallel rows of stitches, one next to the other. Knot the threads at one end and pull the two lower threads to form the gathers. This makes it easy to distribute the gathers on the threads. to give roundness to a sleeve, for example. For more than just occasional gathering jobs, use the gathering foot - see pages 10-11.

Sewing Net Curtains

fig. 16-17
Theo side or bottom hems can be sewn with straight stitching, in case of need, Make sure thie meshes of the cuirtain match (if the pattern allows) -fig. 16: wrong, fig. 17: right. Pin or baste, Since it is not always easy to follow the straight in some net curtains, it is a good idea to hold the material behind and in front of the foot. if necessary, reduce the upper tension (see pages 48-49),


Zip Fasteners - fig. 21
Zipper foot M 0 (0 1-4 Needle position wheel in the center. The zipper foot can be moved to the left or the right of the needle. This makes it possible to sew in the zip fastener without turning the work, by sewing first on one side of the foot and then on the other. Begin with the fastener zipped up, then, when you reach the middle, leave the needle in and open the zip. This makes it easier to get past the clasp of the zip fastener. Some other uses for extra accessories that can be acquired - see also pages 52-57.

Gathering foot

fig. - 18-20

Kg (3 3-4

For more than just occasional gathering jobs with fine or fairly fine material, it is preferable to use the gathering foot, Fig. 18 - Place the material to be gathered underneath the gathering foot, as for ordinary sewing. The gathers will become more pronounced if the upper tension is increased and the stitches are lengthened, Fig. 19-20 - To gather and sew on a flounce at the same time, place it underneath the foot from the left. Then insert the top piece of material from the left, into the side slot of the foot, being careful to keep it flat. Insert the needle and sew a few stitches while holding back the ends of the threads. Guide both pieces of material at the same time while sewing. The top piece of material must be fed regularly into the foot and should not be held back or the stitches will be uneven. Do not hold back the flounce. The material for the flounce must be longer than the main piece of material. N B,: To sew further from the edge, the needle should be decentered towards the left.
Pages 12-22 deal mainly with zigzag sewing with Elna ZZ, SP. ST and SUJ

Overcasting - fig. 22-23

_5 ' 1 C 2-4
Fig. 22 - Simply proceed as shown in the illustration. In the case of a medium or thick material. use stitch width 4, lengtih 1as-2 and guide the material along the slot in the foot.
24 Fig. 23 -A hint for fine mnaterials: place the edge of the material underneath the middle of the sewing foot and guide it according to the guide mark engraved on the foot. Stitch width 4, length 1II-2. The needle will then stitch over the edge of the material to the right, and the result will be neat overcasting withi a finished width of 2 mm,


Patching - fig. 25-26

03 2-3

Place the patch over the damaged part. Fig. 26 - Sew two rows of zigzag stitches, one along the edge of the patch, the other slightly inside the first row. Cut out the damaged part of the material close to the stitching. This simple method avoids excess thicknesses or felled seams.

Edge-to-Edge Sawing

fig. 54
Place two selvedges edge to edge and sew. This is useful for turning worn sheets 'sides to middlet Excess thicknesses are avoided and the stitches get lost in the material.
Sewing on an Elastic - fig. 55
_S h4 2-4 (2)1 Place the elastic on the work as shown in the illustration. In this way there is no need to pull the elastic to stretch it, but be sure to sew slowly, feeding enough material into the foot to form gathers. The seam will remain supple and easy to stretch. The overcasting stitch gives added strength to garments that have to stretch easily (jersey underwear, for example).
sos Blind Stitch - fig. 56

0J o _ 6 [ (1-4 (C3 1-4

Place the material wrong side up. folded as shown in the illustration, Sew, making sure that the side stitches catch only one thread in the fold of material. After sewing, unfold the work and press. If you use this stitch often, the special foot with a guide is recommended. See extra accessories, page 52-57. See also elastic blind stitch. page 32.


Shell Stitch - fig. 57


This stitch is usually sewn on bias material. Each sixth side stitch must be sewn off the edge of the material Then either sew on or insert the bias depending on the work (flounces, etc armholes, underwear, e.
Other Uses for Blind Stitch
Lace sewn onto underwear with an appliqu6d ribbon, held in place by two rows of blind stitchi sewn opposite each other. In this way the blind stitch becomes attractive ornamental stitchiing.


Sewing and Overcasting with Multistretch Stitch - fig. 59

_S r.hc5

This stitch is ideal for sewing and overcasting at the same time, especially when sewing and assembling stretch fabrics (jesey, loosely knitted fabrics) or woollens. Place the work under the foot and sew, so that the stitches to the right fall just off the edge of the material. The result will be a straight seam coupled with a well-finished overcast. Uses: for assembling garments, sewing up sleeves and trousers sewing necklines, etc.

\~6 *4

When making up loosely knitted fabrics (jumpers, cardigans, etc.), make sure that the stitches pass easily under the foot. The seam is stretchable and the knitted fabric will not be pulled out of shape, For shoulders and side-seams which ought not to stretch or lose their shape, sew simultaneously a woollen thread placed flat under the foot in the left slot; fasten the woollen thread at both ends.


Sewing on Borders - fig. 61-62 ~5

5 gi3 4

For sewing borders around armholes, necklines, cuffs, the bottom of jumpers. etc. The stitch is mainly used with jersey or loosely knitted fabrics. Place the border on the material as shown in the illustration. Make sure that the stitches on the right fall off the edge of the material. The garment will retain its shape, if an elastic thread (Lastex) is sewn at the same time, placed flat under the foot in the left slot.
Sewing Stretch Towelling -fig. 63

113 Bp

Such fabrics are sewn in the same way as jersey and ordinary stretch fabrics. But since the material stretches so easily, it is a good idea in some cases (when sewing side-seams, sleeves,
cuffs, necklines, etc.) to make sure the garment retains its
shape by simultaneously sewing an elastic thread placed flat under the foot in the left slot. The material is especially suitable for baby outfits and hooded wraps, pyjamas, tracksuits, T-shirts, etc. Garments will stretch (when put on) and then go back to their original shape each time.
Edge-on-Edge Sewing-fig. 64

j;. C.r,5

which will be subject to a lot of wear.
Edge-on-edge sewing may be required for garments or objects
With the multistretch stitch, the seams will retain their shape and remain perfectly elastic. Sew first one edge and then the other, as shown in the illustration. To give the stitching an attractive appearance, sew the stitches to the right flush with the edge and the stitches to the left well inside the edge.


*-t~5 rTh

fig. 65

If necessary, use the roller foot - see extra accessories, page 523 Sew along the edge of the patch (leather, plastic, etc.). The stitches to the right should be sewn into the garment flush with the patch and the stitches to the left should be sewn into the patch. The result will stand up to a lot of wear and the stitching lok eyatrcie Practical for sing o he o knees, shoulder, eb e1


Handkerchief Borders - fig. 66-67
The multistretch stitch is just the thing for edging fine materials, handkerchiefs, scarves, flounces, etc. Fold the edge once, to a width of 1 cm (I/ inch). Sew, letting the stitches to the right be made off the material, flush with the edge. Then cut away the excess material along the seam. The result will be excellent. This method avoids the use of hems or rolled hems and is quickly done.
Scalloped Edges for Collars, Cuffs and Children's Clothes - fig. 68-69


To decorate the edges of collars, cuffs or children's clothes, you can embroider a small piped scallop. After sewing as usual, finish off with a multistretch stitch, the stitches to the right being formed off the material, and those to the left just catching the edge of the garment. The effect is most attractive.

Elastic Blind Stitch - fig. 70

,=E ] ~2 E g2-4 i 31-2

For invisible hems. Place the material wrong side up. folded as in the illustration (a). Make sure that only the wide zigzag just catches the fold of the material. After sewing, open out and press. For woollens, stretch fabrics and jersey, it is not necessary to fold the hem twice. Leave it flat, as shown in the illustration (b), then overcast and sew the blind hem in a single operation. The stitching will remain easy to stretch. If you have to sew blind hems very often, you will find the special blind stitch foot extremely useful - see extra accessories, page 52.

Edging Stitch - fig. 71

The edging stitch is very useful. It is suitable for sewing borders on tablecloths, serviettes and small covers and also for applique work and reinforcing. If necessary, the stitching can be raised or the material held in shape by sewing one or two threads of pearl cotton, at the same time, which are placed flat under the foot in the right and left grooves. The stitch is also useful for repairing buttonholes. Proceed in the same way as with the zigzag stitch, as shown on page 22.

Elastic Shell Stitch - fig. 72

tizj2 a 4

Place the work as shown in the illustration and sew with the wide zigzag being stitched beyond the edge of the material. This stitch can be sewn directly onto the material, in the case of armholes or necklines in jersey underwear, for example, Otherwise, it can be sewn on a strip of bias material or other soft fabric, which is inserted afterwards.
Insertion of a Shell Hem - fig. 73
Gi>J2 X4 (A-%Y Place the work as shown in the illustration, making sure that the edging stitch closely follows the fold of the material.

Decorative Sewing

The stitches obtained with the selector on Elna SP - ST - SU can also be used for decorative sewing, to give added appeal to the articles you make. All you need is a little imagination and a bit of practice. It is preferable to use embroidery thread and choose matching colours. Reinforce soft material by putting paper underneath.
Scalloped Edging - fig. 74

,_2F <M4 (D !

This kind of scallops is made by folding the edge of the material only once. Sew, making the needle stitch off the


material to the right, close to the edge. It is not necessary to cut away the edges of the scallops after sewing, as is usually the case, Tray-cloths, table sets and tablecloths, frills on blouses and at openings will all look particularly good with this scalloped edge.

fig. 75

4~ cS3j2 and]13 Braid is easy to put on and looks attractive on curtains, cushions or national costume blouses. Sew the braid on both sides with straight stitches. Then use the edging stitch along each side and sew two rows of decorative stitches back to back down the middle.
Pages 35 to 38 deal mainly with additional sewing which can be done with interchangeable single Elna-discs on Elna machines ST - SU

Scallops - fig. 76

,g Gh A 4 3Y For flounces, table sets, serviettes, children's clothes, etc. Sewn by itself or in combination with other Elna-discs, this scalloped edge always adds an alluring touch. You should usually sew slightly inside the edge on either single or double material. Then cut away flush with the scallops. The scallop stitch is also very useful for embroidering attractive patterns in the middle of the material, in conjunction with other decorative stitches.

Fagoting - fig. 77

tiG.A (orr G<fl4) (or 25)
By holding two pieces of material, which have been overcast and placed side by side, folded once, about 2 to 3 mm apart, you can sew the desired fagoting stitch between them. This open-work stitching can be used for tablecloths, lengthening dresses, decorating sheets, trimming dresses and blouses, lengthening curtains, etc. or for any other kind of border.
Monograms - fig. 78 and 79
Not everyone is immediately capable of embroidering a tapered monogram. It requires a certain amount of practice first. But with a little imagination and Elna-disc 17, it becomes easy. Draw the monogram first. Sew the straight parts with a satin stitch and use Elna-disc 17 for the curves. To make the curves, stop sewing after each phase of the stitch pattern, leave the needle in the material, raise the foot and turn the material as required. To increase or reduce the width of the stitch pattern evenly, stop sewing after each phase and increase or reduce the stitch
still more decorative by using other Elna-discs.
width as required, then sew the next phase, and so on. With a little taste and imagination, you can make the monogram

Braid and Furnishings - fig. 80

Etna-discs as required

An Eina with automatic stitches is ideal for furnishings. slip covers for sofas and armchairs, for cushions and curtains. Braid can aiso add a personal touch to clothing.
Other types of sewing that are possible with extra accessories or Elna-discs purchased separately See pages 54-57 and Instruction Booklet.

Large Scallops - fig. 81

= ThA Q 04
Mark the design by sewing with the machine set as indicated above and then follow the outline with a tapered satin stitch. Decenter the needle to the left, zigzag stitch, stitch length V. to 'A,stitch width 1-4-1-4. Reinforce sheer fabrics with paper underneath. Then cut away the excess material.
Shadow Tucks with Large Scallops
fig. 82 (on organdy and organza)
Twin needle 2,7 or 2 mm, and embroidery or a finer,thread. It is possible to use a thicker lower thread to increase the shadow effect. Fold down the edge of the material and sew. Cut away the excess material.

Shadow-Appliqu6 Stitch


fig. 83

Twin needle. Double with the same material, Sew, Cut away the excess material

Tacking - fig. 84

Q 14 A4

0n 1-4

Use tacking or sewing thread. With the needle plate for tacking (see extra accessories, pages 54-57), it is possible to tack with the machine. This will be found to be especially useful for larger sewing jobs. You can adjust the stitch length for stitches up to 24 mm (an inch) long, which can easily be removed after having done the actual sewing.
Decorative Outline Sewing (Saddle Stitch) -fig. 85
With the same special needle plate as for tacking, you can do attractive outline sewing. Wind cordonnet thread onto the spool. If necessary, increase the upper tension. The same cordonnet thread is also used as upper thread. The advantage is that the outline stitching comes out clearly on both sides of the garment. N.B. This stitch can also be sewn with an Elna ZZ or an Elna SP.


Pages 39 to 49 deal mainly with additional sewing done with the interchangeable double Elna-disos on Elna SU.
Overlock Sewing - with simultaneous
straight stitching and overcasting

- fig. 86

or F 5P A Q149 2-4
Elna-disc 149 makes it possible to sew and overcast at the same time. The stitching remains supple and easy to stretch. It is suitable for dressmaking and especially for sewing stretch fabrics, fine jersey fabrics, underwear, night dresses, hems, sewing on elastic, etc. - Fig. 87 For assembling shirts and blouses, sewing up sleeves, shoulders or side-seams, sewing up the legs of pyjamas or track-suits, dressing-gowns, underwear, etc. either make the needle stitch just off the edge of the material to the right or slightly inside the edge. In the latter case, cut away the excess material afterwards. The method used will depend on the type of material. First do a trial run with a double piece of material under the presser foot before sewing the actual garment. The overlock stitch makes it possible to avoid flat or felled seams. It is durable and quicker to sew,

103 104

with a triple seam (Elna-dis 149, stitch width 0, stitch length A) - fig. 102 Open out the seam as illustrated, - fig. 103 Fold over the side that has not been sewn and sew it to the open seam of the garment with superstretch stitch 0 152. stitch width 4. stitch length A. -fig. 104 Fold out the border and iron with a damp cloth. N.B.: For stand-up collars and for cuffs, the circumference should first be closed with a tripie seam,


True hemstitching can be sewn automatically with the Elna SU. Take a large needle, size 100 to 120, and fine darning thread. Linen and well-dressed fabrics can be sewn as they are. For very fine materials like organza and organdy, reduce the stitch width, if necessary. Depending on the type of hemstitch, the needle may sew as many as 9 times in the same hole. It is therefore essential to adjust the stitch length in accordance with the quality of material and thread, turning the stitch tuner to between A + and A -. Make a test before starting the actual work
Turkish Hemstitching - fig. 105-106 rx A G X 2-3 X A
Fig. 106. Just like artistic embroidery. Sew first and then draw the threads.
* Point do Paris - fig. 107
,g GE. A X4 A Needle 80-100 For fine embroidery on dress bodices; for all kinds of applique work; for sewing on lace; for fringes, etc.
Stars and Venetian Hemstitch - fig. 108.IF A 0142 gj34 A
The stars can be embroidered on dresses or other garments, used as an edging for braid or combined with hemstitching.
* Venetian Hemstitch - fig. 108
r A Q -4 * These Elna-discs are available as extras. o A

,,_ __11

Embroidery with Metallic Thread

- fig. 109-110

as required A huge range of possibilities is opened up for machine embroidery by the use of gold, silver or coloured metallic threads such as Lurex. Wind the metallic thread onto the bobbin, place it in the rotary hook and set the lower tension to between 0 and 'h. Choose an upper thread of the same colour as the material or of a colour similar to that of the metallic thread, depending on the effect you wish to obtain. Sew with the material the wrong side up. so that the metallic thread makes the designs on the right side. If the material is too soft, draw the designs on a piece of paper and place it on the wrong side of the material just under the
foot. Sew by following the drawing and tear off the paper afterwards, Really spectacular effects can be obtained by using shimmering, sparkling metallic thread for tablecloths, evening and cocktail dresses. national costumes. etc. Press with a very cool iron. Be very careful when washing: use cold water and do not rub or use chemicals,

Combining Decorative Stitches
There are unlimited and fantastic possibilities for combining and arranging different stitches. Avoid placing stitches that 'clash -side by side. First make a trial. Star by sewing stitches with a straight edge side by side Once you get more expert you will be able to combine other stitch patterns, for example by counting the stitches to make attractive designs.

fig. ill

as required
Embroidery with Wool or Pearl Cotton - fig. 112
as required Excellent effects can be obtained by using wool for decorative stitching on jersey dress fabrics and even on other textiles. Wind the wool onto the bobbin (if you plan to do a lot of embroidery, wind several bobbins before you start). Place the

112 Seth


me r:; 7

bobin in hok the

tesoQtapsto ewe

l mak a ,gf'tria ij runt.firs,t,

3 v2.< t

r<= r~
i obioul exreml imprat Emridr don intis wa

112.5='' '

bobbin in the hook. Set the lower tension at a position between 0 and y. The upper tension may be between 7 and 9-but make a trial run first. Select an Elna-disc. Place the work with the wrong side up, so that the wool is applied on the right side. The choice of colours is obviously extremely important. Embroidery done in this way is most attractive. If necessary, you can draw the design to be embroidered on a piece of paper and place it on the wrong sde of the work (lust under the foot), Sew by following the drawing and tear off the paper afterwards.
Sewing Net Curtains - fig. 113-117
As described on page 9. it may be a good thing to reduce the upper tension (if necessary) and guide the curtain, holding it both in front of and behind the foot, to make it easier to follow the straight. For the hems of the two long sides, you may, if you like, use straight stitches with a medium stitch length. For assembling, it is preferable to use the zigzag stitch, or better still, the multistretch stitch (Q,1or 5) or picot stitch (tJm146).
Joining Curtains in the Middle - fig. 113

_S or a3A

Sew 1cm ('Y in.) from the edge. Then cut flush with the seam. The join will be strong and almost invisible. Satisfactory results can also be obtained with the zigzag or multistretch stitch (GAN 1).

fig. 123-

Panig Z




By using different colours of thread, shaded thread, etc. you can make very pretty decorative designs with the darning stitch, All you need is a little practice and imagination. Draw the design and fill it in with the darning stitch, using different colours, as required. Stretch the work on an embroidery hoop. Shaded effects are more easily obtained, if you sew alternate long and short stitches (if necessary, make a sketch first). For flowers or leaves for example, sew fromn the edge towards the center,

-,l S''.

Other possibilities with extra accessories, to be purchased separately

see also pages 54-57

Some extra accessories have already been described as being particularly suitable for certain stitches. The following accessories are also extremely useful, if you do a lot of the type of sewing for which they are designed.
Blind Stitch Fact with Guide

t 12 42-4 , I1-2

fig. 203
This foot is useful for sewing hems with a blind stitch in knitted fabrics and medium-weight materials. Fold the material and place it with the wrong side up, as shown in the illustration. Hold the fold of the material against the guide. Sew a few stitches, turning the flywheel by hand and make sure that the wide zigzag is sewn so that the needle catches only one fiber of the material, If necessary, adjust the stitch width. After sewing, unfold and press the hiem,


Sewing Plastics (Vinyl) or Leather. Roller Foot - fig. 207
Straight or zigzag stitch or even edging or overlock stitch. Some plastic materials may tend to stick to the sole of the foot. The rollers avoid friction and the plastic can be sewn evenly without being held back. Choose the stitch most suitable for the work; the most usual ones are those mentioned above. N.B.: The roller foot is also extremely useful for sewing leather, imitation leather and some jersey dress fabrics and synthetic materials.
Quilting. Quilting Foot with Guide - fig. 204

3S1 [Q2-4


CZ 2-4

You can use a straight or zigzag stitch for quilting. Adjust the stitch width and length as required. Always begin in the middle of the work. Sew the first row of stitches and adjust the guide to the desired distance between the rows (to do so, loosen the screw on the guide and then tighten it again). The guide should not press on the material for it will prevent it from sliding smoothly. Sew first one side of the work and then the other, starting from the center and working towards the edge. This is because the layers of padding tend to shift and the edges may have to be evened afterwards. So always allow a little extra material.

Stitch: blind 16. 26-27, 52 edging 32 elastic blind 32 elastic shell 33 multistretch 28 overcasting 23 overlock 39-42 Point de Paris (hemstitching) 45 saddle 38 satin 18 shading 37 shell 16, 27, 33 straight 6-7 supenstretch 43 tapered satin 19 triple (elastic) 41 Venetian (hemstitching) 45 zigzag 12-22 Stretch (fabrics) 14-15, 24-26, 28-30, 39-44 Superstretch (stitch) 43, 44
Tablecloths (Designs for)
Tacking Tapered Satin Stitch Tension of Threads lower upper Thicknesses Threads: elastic metallic Towelling (sewing of) Underwear Venetian Stitch
4-5 4-5 4-2-3 8, 15, 29 27, 39 45

Wool (darning)

(embroidery) Zip Fasteners

47 10-11

C-11.73-Angiais-No. 104342-1
Tavaro S.A. Geneve-Suisse



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