Tyre condition and pressure
It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear (rotating the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
Tread Depth - visual check
The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).
Tread Depth - manual check

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result. Tyre pressures are shown on page 016
Alternatively tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.
4 Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your cars tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, dont forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

7.9a Timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover fasteners (arrowed) - K8 engine
7.9b Timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover fasteners (arrowed) - K16 engine
7.9c Removing timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover - K16 engine
7.10 Ensure timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover engages correctly with cylinder head cover - K8 engine
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A9
8.6 Crankshaft pulley mark aligned with timing belt lower cover mark at 90 BTDC clear of the timing belt covers. Take great care not to place any undue strain on hoses and mop up any spilt fluid immediately. 3 Remove the timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover. 4 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel 5 From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel to gain access to the crankshaft pulley bolt. 6 Using a suitable spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until the long whitepainted mark on the crankshaft pulleys outboard (right-hand) face is aligned with the single, separate mark on the timing belt lower cover so that the crankshaft is in the 90 BTDC position (see Chapter 1 for details of the pulley/cover marks) (see illustration). 7 Check that the camshaft sprocket mark(s) align as described in paragraph 15, showing that Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at 90 BTDC so that there is no risk of the valves contacting the pistons during dismantling and reassembly. If the camshaft sprocket mark(s) are 180 out, rotate the crankshaft through one complete turn (360) to align the marks as described (see illustration). 8 On K16 engines, use the tool described in Section 9 to lock up the camshaft sprockets
8.7 Camshaft sprocket marks (A) aligned with timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover mark (B) - K16 engine so that they cannot move under valve spring pressure when the timing belt is removed. 9 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt lower cover. 10 Position a trolley jack with a wooden spacer beneath the sump then gently jack it up to take the weight of the engine. 11 Slacken and remove the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting through-bolt and nut and the mounting-to-bracket nuts. Remove the mounting, along with the two rubber washers which are fitted on each side of the mounting. On K8 engines only, unscrew the retaining bolts securing the bracket to cylinder block/crankcase and remove it from the engine unit (see illustration). 12 Slacken both the timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt through half a turn each, then push the pulley assembly downwards to remove all the tension from the timing belt. Hold the tensioner pulley in this position and re-tighten the backplate clamp bolt securely (see illustration). 13 Slip the belt off the sprockets (see illustration). Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt has been refitted.

9 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting
If both camshaft sprockets on K16 engines are to be removed, it is good practice to mark them (inlet or exhaust) so that they can be returned to their original locations on reassembly. Note: This Section describes as individual operations the removal and refitting of the components concerned. If more than one

Adjustment

28 As the timing belt is a fit-and-forget type, the manufacturer states that tensioning need only be carried out when a belt is (re)fitted. No
9.2a Timing belt, sprockets and covers - K8 engine 1 Timing belt upper righthand (outer) cover 2 Seal 3 Bolt 4 Bolt 5 Bolt 6 Shouldered bolt 7 Timing belt lower cover 8 Seal 9 Seal 10 Bolt 11 Bolt Crankshaft pulley Washer Crankshaft pulley bolt Timing belt tensioner pulley assembly Tensioner pulley Allen screw Tensioner backplate clamp bolt Tensioner pulley spring Sleeve 26 Pillar bolt Timing belt Crankshaft sprocket Camshaft sprocket Camshaft sprocket bolt Washer Timing belt upper lefthand (inner) cover 27 Bolt - cover to water pump 28 Bolt
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A11
a clockwise direction until the long whitepainted mark on the crankshaft pulleys outboard (right-hand) face is aligned with the single, separate mark on the timing belt lower cover so that the crankshaft is in the 90 BTDC position (see Chapter 1 for details of the pulley/cover marks). 7 Check that the camshaft sprocket mark(s) align as described in Section 8, paragraph 15 then proceed as described under the relevant sub-heading.

Camshaft sprocket(s)

8 Slacken through half a turn each, the timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt. Push the pulley assembly down to release all tension from the timing belt, then re-tighten the backplate clamp bolt securely. 9 Remove the belt from the camshaft sprocket(s), taking care not to twist it too sharply. Use fingers only to handle the belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is refitted. 10 On K8 engines, slacken the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and remove it, along with its washer. To prevent the camshaft from rotating, use Rover service tool 18G 1521 to retain the sprocket. If the tool is not available, then an acceptable substitute can be fabricated from two lengths of steel strip (one long, the other short) and three nuts and bolts. One nut and bolt should form the pivot of a forked tool with the remaining two nuts and bolts at the tips of the forks to engage with the sprocket spokes, as shown in illustration 9.23a. 11 On K16 engines, unscrew the appropriate camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and remove it, along with its washer. To prevent a camshaft from rotating, lock together both sprockets using Rover service tool 18G 1570. This tool is a metal sprag shaped on both sides to fit the sprocket teeth and is inserted between the sprockets. If the tool is not available, then an acceptable substitute can be cut from a length of square-section steel tube or similar to fit as closely as possible around the sprocket spokes (see illustrations). 12 On all engines, remove the sprocket(s) from the camshaft end(s), noting the locating roll pin(s) (see illustration). If a roll pin is a

4 Engine/gearbox removal and refitting
Note: The engine can be removed from the vehicle only as a complete unit with the gearbox.
1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground then remove the bonnet. 2 If the engine is to be dismantled, drain the oil and remove the oil filter, then clean and refit the drain plug, tightening it to its specified torque setting. 3 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels. 4 From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel. 5 Drain the gearbox oil, then clean and refit the drain plug, tightening it to its specified torque setting. 6 Drain the cooling system. 7 Remove the battery, followed by the battery tray and support bracket. 8 Remove the complete air cleaner assembly, including the intake duct and mounting bracket, intake hose and resonator. 9 Disconnect the ignition coil HT lead from the distributor cap. 10 Undo the nut and disconnect the battery positive lead from the main starter motor solenoid terminal, then carefully disconnect the spade connector from the solenoid. 11 Undo the two bolts securing the engine compartment fusebox to the body, then disconnect the two engine wiring harness block connectors from the underside of the fusebox. Undo the bolt securing the wiring harness earth lead to the bonnet platform, then disconnect the LT wiring connector from the ignition coil. On fuel-injected engines, also disconnect the wiring connector and vacuum pipe from the engine management ECU. Free the engine wiring harness from any relevant clips or ties so that it is free to be removed with the engine/gearbox unit (see illustrations).
4.11a Disconnecting engine harness wiring connectors from underside of fusebox.
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B3
27 Insert a suitable flat bar in between the left-hand inner constant velocity joint and gearbox housing, then carefully lever the joint out of position, whilst taking great care not to damage the gearbox housing. 28 Withdraw the left-hand inner constant velocity joint from the gearbox and support the driveshaft to avoid damaging the constant velocity joints or gaiters. Repeat the operations described in paragraphs 25 to 28 for the right-hand driveshaft. 29 On K8 engines, the cylinder head has a tapped hole provided at the right-hand rear end (above the dipstick tube) and at the lefthand front end (behind the spark plug lead clips). On K16 engine cylinder heads, the right-hand end hole is in the same place but at the left-hand end, the air intake duct support bracket mounting points must be used. Attach lifting brackets to the engine at these points (see illustrations). Take the weight of the engine/gearbox unit on the engine hoist. 30 From underneath the vehicle, unscrew the two bolts securing the rear engine/gearbox mounting bracket to the gearbox, then slacken the connecting link-to-body throughbolt and pivot the mounting away from the gearbox. 31 Slacken and remove the two bolts securing the left-hand gearbox bracket to the mounting. Lower the gearbox slightly then undo the four bolts securing the mounting to the body and manoeuvre the mounting out of position. 32 Raise the gearbox again then slacken and remove the right-hand engine/gearbox mounting through-bolt and nut. Unscrew the two nuts securing the mounting to the engine bracket and remove it, noting the rubber washers which are fitted on each side of the bracket. 33 Make a final check that all components have been removed or disconnected that will prevent removal of the engine/gearbox unit from the vehicle and ensure that components such as the gearchange linkage link rods are secured so that they cannot be damaged on removal. 34 Lift the engine/gearbox unit out of the vehicle, ensuring that nothing is trapped or damaged. Once the unit is high enough, lift it

7 Cylinder head and valves cleaning and inspection
11 Examine the head of each valve for pitting, burning, cracks and general wear, then check the valve stem for scoring and wear ridges. Rotate the valve and check for any obvious indication that it is bent. Look for pits and excessive wear on the tip of each valve stem. Renew any valve that shows any such signs of wear or damage. 12 If the valve appears satisfactory at this stage, measure the valve stem diameter at several points by using a micrometer (see illustration). Any significant difference in the readings obtained indicates wear of the valve stem. Should any of these conditions be apparent, the valve(s) must be renewed. 13 If the valves are in satisfactory condition they should be ground (lapped) into their respective seats to ensure a smooth gas-tight seal. If the seat is only lightly pitted, or if it has been re-cut, fine grinding compound only should be used to produce the required finish. Coarse valve-grinding compound should not be used unless a seat is badly burned or deeply pitted. If this is the case, the cylinder head and valves should be inspected by an expert to decide whether seat re-cutting or
Note: If the engine has been severely overheated, it is best to assume that the cylinder head is warped and to check carefully for signs of this. Note: Be sure to perform all the following inspection procedures before concluding that the services of a machine shop or engine overhaul specialist are required. Make a list of all items that require attention. 1 Thorough cleaning of the cylinder head and valve components, followed by a detailed inspection, will enable you to decide how much valve service work must be carried out during the engine overhaul.

Cleaning

2 Scrape away all traces of old gasket material and sealing compound from the cylinder head. 3 Scrape away all carbon from the combustion chambers and ports, then wash the cylinder head thoroughly with paraffin or a suitable solvent. 4 Scrape off any heavy carbon deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a power-operated wire brush to remove deposits from the valve heads and stems.
5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks, evidence of coolant leakage and other damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder head should be obtained. 6 Use a straight-edge and feeler gauge blade to check that the cylinder head surface is not distorted (see illustrations). If it is, it may be possible to resurface it, provided that the specified reface limit is not exceeded in so doing, or that the cylinder head is not reduced to less than the specified height. 7 Examine the valve seats in each of the combustion chambers. If they are severely

Heater blower motor resistor
21 Remove the glovebox as described in paragraphs 15 and 16. 22 Disconnect the wiring connector, then undo the two retaining screws and remove the resistor from the front of the motor assembly.

Heater valve

23 Working in the engine compartment, disconnect the cable inner from the heater
10.18 Disconnect motor wiring connectors (A) and air recirculation cable (B)
10.19a Undo three blower motor mounting bolts (arrowed).
10.19b. and remove unit from behind facia
10.20a Remove motor cover retaining screws (arrowed).
10.20b. and disconnect breather hose
10.20c Undo motor retaining bolts and withdraw motor from unit
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 311
2 The ducts are mounted on the facia assembly and can be removed individually, once the retaining screws have been removed.

Heater unit ducts

3 The left-hand heater unit to blower motor duct is removed as described in paragraphs 15 to 17 of Section 10. 4 To remove the right-hand duct, first remove the facia. Slacken and remove the retaining screw which secures the right-hand end of the duct to the mounting bracket and release the radio aerial from the retaining clips on the underside of the duct. The duct can then be manoeuvred out of position. 5 Removal of the lower ducts which supply air to the rear passenger footwells is a complex job, requiring the removal of the front seats, centre console and the various trim panels so that the floor carpet can be peeled back, and is therefore not recommended.
10.20d Remove fan retaining nut. valve and free the cable outer from the retaining clip. 24 Slacken and remove the bolt securing the heater valve mounting bracket to the engine compartment bulkhead. 25 Either drain the cooling system or clamp the coolant hoses on each side of the coolant valve to minimise the loss of coolant. 26 Slacken the hose retaining clips, then disconnect both hoses from the coolant valve and remove the valve from the engine compartment. Mop up any spilt coolant immediately.
10.20e. and lift off fan (seal arrowed)
28 Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure.
29 Refitting is a reversal of the removal sequence, noting the following: a) Ensure that the foam rubber seal is refitted correctly so that the blower motor-to-bulkhead aperture is closed off. b) Tighten the blower motor mounting bolts to the specified torque setting. c) Ensure that the air recirculation cable and flap functions correctly before refitting the glovebox. If necessary, adjust by releasing the cable retaining clip and repositioning the cable outer.

30 The stepper motor fitted to this type of manifold is an integral part of the throttle housing and as a consequence, cannot be removed.
38 Disconnect the potentiometer multiplug (see illustration). 39 Remove and discard the two securing screws and wavewashers and remove the clamping plate. 40 Pull the potentiometer off the throttle spindle being carefull not to apply leverage or twist the potentiometer.
31 Disconnect the multiplug from the stepper motor (see illustration). 32 Remove the two Torx screws which
14.35 Disconnecting potentiometer multiplug - alloy inlet manifold
14.38 Potentiometer multiplug (arrowed) plastic inlet manifold
Fuel and exhaust systems - multi-point fuel injection engines 4C7
14.41 When pressing potentiometer onto spindle, apply finger pressure only to shaded area 41 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following: a) Carefully clean the mating surfaces of the throttle housing and potentiometer. b) Refit the potentiometer so that the flat on the spindle is aligned with the mating portion of the potentiometer. c) When pressing the potentiometer onto the spindle, apply finger pressure only to the shaded area shown (see illustration). d) Rotate the potentiometer anti-clockwise only to align the fixing holes. e) Tighten the potentiometer screws to their specified torque wrench setting. f) Operate the throttle cam 2 or 3 times and ensure that full travel exists between the throttle open and closed positions. A B C
14.49 Intake air temperature sensor multiplug (arrowed) 14.43 ECU connection points Mounting nuts Multiplug connectors Vacuum hose c) Tighten the sensor to the specified torque wrench setting. d) On completion, replenish the cooling system.
48 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 49 Disconnect the sensor multiplug and unscrew the sensor from the inlet manifold (see illustration). 50 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following: a) Thoroughly clean the sensor threads and mating surfaces. b) Tighten the sensor to the specified torque wrench setting.
56 Refer to Section 11 in Part A of this Chapter.
57 Refer to Section 15 in Part B of this Chapter.
58 Refer to information. Chapter 12 for further
51 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 52 Either drain the cooling system or be prepared for some loss of coolant as the sensor is unscrewed. 53 Disconnect the sensor multiplug (see illustration). 54 Unscrew the sensor and withdraw it, then plug the opening to prevent any entry of dirt. If the cooling system has not been drained, work quickly to minimise coolant loss. 55 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following: a) Thoroughly clean the sensor threads and mating surfaces. b) If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it. If no sealing washer is fitted, apply a smear of sealant to the sensor threads.
42 Remove the battery. 43 Undo the three nuts securing the ECU to its mounting bracket (see illustration). 44 Unplug the two multiplug connectors from the ECU. 45 Release the securing clip and pull the vacuum hose from the ECU. 46 Remove the ECU from the vehicle. 47 Refitting the ECU is the reverse of the removal procedure. If a new or different ECU has been fitted, it may take a short while for full idle control to be restored.

Warning: Specially rapid boost charges which are claimed to restore the power of a battery in 1 to 2 hours are not recommended as they can cause serious damage to the battery plates through overheating. Warning: During battery electrolyte replenishment, never add water to sulphuric acid otherwise it will explode. Always pour the acid slowly onto the water. Warning: The battery will be emitting significant quantities of highly inflammable hydrogen gas during charging and for approximately 15 minutes afterwards. Do not allow sparks or naked flames near the battery or it may explode.
1 In normal use, the battery should not require charging from an external source unless very heavy use is made of electrical equipment over a series of journeys that are too short to allow the charging system to keep pace with demand. Otherwise, a need for regular recharging points to a fault either in the battery or in the charging system. 2 If the vehicle is laid up for long periods (in excess of thirty days at a time) the battery will lose approximately 1% of its charge per week. This figure is for a disconnected battery. If the battery is left connected, circuits such as the clock (where fitted) will drain it at a faster rate. To prevent this happening, always disconnect the battery negative lead whenever the vehicle is to be laid up for a long period. To keep the battery fully charged, it should be given regular refresher charges every six weeks or so. This is particularly important on maintenance-free batteries, which will suffer permanent reduction of charge capacity if allowed to become fully discharged. 3 If a discharged battery is suspected, the simplest test for most owners is as follows. Leave the battery disconnected for at least two hours, then measure the (open circuit, or no-load) voltage using a sensitive voltmeter connected across the battery terminals. Compare the reading obtained with the following: Voltmeter reading Charge condition 0.50 volts Fully discharged battery scrap 12.30 volts 50% charged 12.48 volts 75% charged 12.66 volts or more Fully charged
6 If the battery condition is suspect, first check the specific gravity of electrolyte in each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte or deterioration of the internal plates. 7 A further test can be made only by a battery specialist using a battery heavy discharge meter. Alternatively, connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals and operate the starter motor with the ignition coil HT lead disconnected from the distributor and earthed, and with the headlamps, heated rear window and heater blower switched on. If the voltmeter reading remains above approximately 9.5 volts, the battery condition is satisfactory. If the voltmeter reading drops below 9.5 volts and the battery has already been charged, it is proven faulty.

Warning: Brake shoes must be renewed on both rear wheels at the same time. Never renew the shoes on only one wheel as uneven braking may result.
1 Remove the brake drum. 2 Working carefully and noting all precautions, remove all traces of brake dust from the brake drum, backplate and shoes. 3 Measure the thickness of friction material remaining on each brake shoe at several points. If either shoe is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four shoes must be renewed as a set. Also, the shoes should be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease as there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material once contaminated. 4 If any of the brake shoes are worn unevenly or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly. 5 To remove the brake shoes, first remove the shoe retainer springs and pins, using a pair of pliers to press in each retainer clip until it can be rotated through 90 and released. Ease the shoes out one at a time from the
14 Pressure regulating valve testing, removal and refitting
1 The pressure regulating valve is mounted on the right-hand side of the engine compartment bulkhead. 2 Specialist equipment is required to check valve performance. If the valve is thought to be faulty, the vehicle should be taken to a suitably equipped Rover dealer for testing. However, in the event of an internal failure, brake fluid will seep from the plug on the front face of the valve which is situated directly above the lower two hose unions (see illustration). Repairs are not possible and, if faulty, the valve must be renewed.
14.2 In the event of failure, fluid will seep from pressure regulating valve plug (arrowed)

912 Braking system

lower pivot point to release the tension of the return spring, then disconnect the lower return spring from both shoes. Ease the upper end of both shoes out from their wheel cylinder locations, taking great care not to damage the wheel cylinder seals, and disconnect the handbrake cable from the trailing shoe. The brake shoe and adjuster strut assembly can now be manoeuvred out of position and away from the backplate (see illustrations). Do not depress the brake pedal until the brakes are reassembled. Wrap a strong elastic band around the wheel cylinder pistons to retain them. 6 With the brake shoe assembly on the worksurface, make a note of the fitted positions of the adjuster strut and springs to use as guide on reassembly (see illustration). Carefully ease the adjuster strut from its slot in the trailing shoe and remove the short spring which secures the two components together. Detach the upper return spring and separate the shoes and strut. 7 Examine the adjuster strut assembly for signs of wear or damage, paying particular attention to the adjuster quadrant and knurled wheel. If damaged, the strut assembly must be renewed. Renew all the brake shoe return springs regardless of their apparent condition. 8 Peel back the rubber protective caps and check the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks or other damage. Check that both cylinder pistons are free to move easily.

6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following: a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the disc and hub are clean and flat. b) Align (if applicable) the marks made on removal. c) If a new disc has been fitted, use a suitable solvent to wipe any preservative coating from the disc before refitting the caliper.
24 Handbrake cables removal and refitting
1 Firmly chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. The handbrake cable consists of two sections (right and left-hand), which are linked to the lever assembly by an equalizer plate. Each section can be removed individually.

Braking system 917

lower the tailpipe section to gain access to the heat shield. Undo the three heat shield retaining bolts and remove the shield from the vehicle underbody. 8 Work along the length of the cable section and remove all bolts securing the cable outer to the vehicle underbody and trailing arm. Once free, withdraw the cable from underneath the vehicle and, if necessary, repeat the procedure for the remaining cable section.
9 Refitting is a reversal of the removal sequence noting the following: a) Lubricate all exposed linkages and cable pivots with a good quality multi-purpose grease. b) Ensure the cable outer grommet is correctly located in the floorpan and that all retaining bolts are tightened to the specified torque. c) On non-ABS models, relocate the trailing shoe and refit the brake drum. d) Prior to refitting the rear centre console section, adjust the handbrake cable as described in Chapter 1.
23.4 Handbrake mechanism layout 1 Handbrake cable adjuster nut 2 Equalizer plate 3 Bolts 4 Cable retaining plate 5 Grommet 6 Exhaust heatshield 7 Bolts - cable to body 8 Bolts - cable to trailing arm
25 Stop lamp switch - removal, refitting and adjustment
2 From inside the vehicle, prise out the cover from the top of the rear centre console section to gain access to the two retaining screws. Undo the two screws and remove the rear console section. 3 Slacken and remove the handbrake cable adjusting nut from the rear of the lever and disconnect the equalizer plate, noting the spring which is fitted to the lever adjusting rod. 4 Undo the two bolts securing the cable outer retaining plate to the floor pan (see illustration). Remove the retaining plate then detach the relevant cable inner from the equalizer plate and release the cable grommet from the floorpan. 5 On models equipped with ABS, working from underneath the vehicle, remove the two brake caliper shield retaining bolts and remove the shield from the caliper. Extract the
spring clip and clevis pin securing the handbrake cable to the caliper handbrake lever then remove the clip securing the cable outer to its mounting bracket and detach the handbrake cable from the caliper. 6 On non-ABS models, remove the relevant rear brake drum. Remove the trailing shoe retainer spring and pin, using a pair of pliers to press in the retainer clip until it can be rotated through 90 and released. Ease the trailing shoe out of the lower pivot point to release the tension of the return spring, then disconnect the lower return spring from both shoes. Disconnect the handbrake cable from the trailing shoe then use a 12 mm spanner to compress the handbrake cable retaining tangs and withdraw the cable from the rear of the backplate (see illustration). 7 On all models, release the main silencer from its three rubber mountings and carefully

The independent front suspension is of the MacPherson strut type, incorporating coil springs and integral telescopic shock absorbers. The MacPherson struts are located by transverse lower suspension arms, which utilize rubber inner mounting bushes and incorporate a balljoint at the outer ends, and forward facing longitudinal tie bars. Both lower suspension arms are connected to an anti-roll bar via a small connecting link. The front swivel hubs, which carry the wheel bearings, brake calipers and the hub/disc assemblies, are bolted to the MacPherson struts and connected to the lower arms via the balljoints.
The fully independent rear suspension is of double wishbone type, utilising pressed steel trailing arms which have the roadwheel stub axles bolted into their rear ends. These are located longitudinally on the vehicle underbody via a large rubber bush which is situated towards the centre of each arm. Each trailing arm assembly is located transversely by three lateral links, which utilize rubber mounting bushes at both their inner and outer ends. The rear suspension struts incorporate coil springs and integral telescopic shock absorbers and are mounted onto the rear lower lateral link via a rubber mounting bush. The steering wheel is of the energyabsorbing type (to protect the driver in the event of an accident) and is attached by a deeply-recessed nut to the steering column which is also collapsible. In the event of an impact, such as in an accident, the lower steering column clamp and the upper column mounting, fitted with energy absorbing
bending plates, is designed to allow the column to slide downwards. The downwards movement of the column bends the mounting plates which absorb some of the energy, so lessening the force transmitted to the driver via the steering wheel. An airbag is available as an option and, when fitted, is mounted in the centre of the steering wheel. See Chapter 12 for full details. The steering column has a universal joint fitted towards the lower end of its length and its bottom end is clamped to a second universal joint, which is in turn clamped to the steering gear pinion. The steering gear is mounted onto the engine compartment bulkhead and is connected by two track rods, with balljoints at their outer ends, to the steering arms projecting rearwards from the hub carriers. The track rod ends are threaded to facilitate adjustment. Power-assisted steering is available as an

5 Front suspension strut removal and refitting
1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove the appropriate roadwheel. 2 Extract the split pin and undo the nut securing the steering gear track rod balljoint to the swivel hub. Release the balljoint shank, using a suitable balljoint separator tool whilst taking care not to damage the balljoint gaiter. 3 Slacken and remove the bolt and washer securing the anti-roll bar connecting link to the lower suspension arm, then undo the two
1 Remove the swivel hub assembly, then undo the brake disc shield retaining screws and remove the shield from the hub. 2 Press the hub out of the swivel hub using a tubular spacer (see illustration). If the bearings outboard inner race remains on the hub, remove it using a suitable bearing puller. 3 Extract both circlips from the swivel hub and discard them as they should be renewed whenever disturbed. 4 Press the bearing out of the swivel hub by using a suitable tubular spacer (see illustration). 5 Thoroughly clean the hub and swivel hub, removing all traces of dirt and grease. Polish away any burrs or raised edges which might hinder reassembly. Check both for cracks or any other signs of wear or damage and renew
3.8 Pressing new hub bearing into swivel hub
3.9 Pressing hub into swivel hub - note support for bearing inner race
106 Suspension and steering
5.4 Removing bolt securing brake hose to suspension strut bolts securing the tie bar to the lower suspension arm. 4 Undo the bolt securing the brake hose retaining clamp to the strut, then remove the clamp and free the flexible hose (see illustration). 5 Slacken the swivel hub-to-suspension strut clamp bolt, then carefully ease the swivel hub assembly off the end of the strut. 6 Working in the engine compartment, remove the rubber suspension strut cover. Use chalk or a dab of paint to mark the relative positions of the suspension strut upper mounting and body. Undo the three strut upper mounting nuts and manoeuvre the strut out from under the wheelarch whilst noting the seal which is fitted between the upper mounting plate and vehicle body (see illustrations).

Headlamps: Dip/main beam bulb. Individual main beam bulb. Front sidelamps. Direction indicator lamps. Direction indicator side repeater lamps. Interior lamp. Instrument panel warning and illumination. Glovebox lamp. Luggage compartment lamp. Reversing lamps. Tail lamps. Stop lamps. Rear foglamps. Number plate lamps. * With exception of rear illumination panel bulb which is capless
Wiper arm spindle nut. Wiper motor mounting bolts. Windscreen wiper linkage spindle assembly bolts. Airbag-to-steering wheel (Torx) screws. Airbag control unit-to-steering wheel (Torx) screws.
Body electrical systems 123
battery, alternator and components such as the fuel injection/ignition system ECU to protect them. A number of additional precautions must be observed when working on vehicles equipped with airbags (SRS), they are as follows: a) When cleaning the interior of the vehicle, do not allow the airbag unit to become flooded with detergents or water and do not clean with petrol or furniture cream and polishes. Clean the unit sparingly with a damp cloth and upholstery cleaner. b) Before working on any part of the system, remove the ignition key and wait at least ten minutes to allow the system backup circuit to fully discharge. Disconnect both battery leads, earth lead first, to avoid accidental detonation of the airbag. c) Make no attempt to splice into any of the electric cables in the SRS wiring harness as this may affect the operation of the SRS. Never fit electronic equipment such as mobile telephones, radios, etc. into the harness and ensure that the harness is routed so that it cannot be trapped. d) Avoid hammering or causing any harsh vibration at the front of the vehicle, particularly in the engine bay, as this may trigger the crash sensors and activate the SRS. e) Do not use ohmmeters or any other device capable of supplying current on any of the SRS components, as this may cause accidental detonation. Use only a digital circuit tester. f) Always use new replacement parts. Never fit parts that are from another vehicle or show signs of damage through being dropped or improperly handled g) Airbags are classed as pyrotechnical devices and must be stored and handled according to the relevant laws in the country concerned. In general, do not leave these components disconnected from their electrical cabling any longer than is absolutely necessary as in this state they are unstable and the risk of accidental detonation is introduced. Rest a disconnected airbag unit with the pad surface facing upwards and never rest anything on the pad. Store it on a secure flat surface, away from flammable materials, high heat sources, oils, grease, detergents or water, and never leave it unattended. h) The SRS indicator light should extinguish 3 seconds after the ignition switch is turned to position II. If this is not the case, check the electrical system connections as soon as possible. i) The airbag control unit and slip ring are non-serviceable components and no attempt should be made to carry out repairs or modifications to them. j) Only use the recommended special bolts when fitting the airbag assembly. Do not use any other type of bolt. k) Never invert the airbag unit. Renew the airbag unit and slip ring every ten years, regardless of condition. m) Return an unwanted airbag unit to your Rover dealer for safe disposal. Do not endanger others by careless disposal of a unit. l)