7.9a Timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover fasteners (arrowed) - K8 engine
7.9b Timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover fasteners (arrowed) - K16 engine
7.9c Removing timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover - K16 engine
7.10 Ensure timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover engages correctly with cylinder head cover - K8 engine
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A9
8.6 Crankshaft pulley mark aligned with timing belt lower cover mark at 90 BTDC clear of the timing belt covers. Take great care not to place any undue strain on hoses and mop up any spilt fluid immediately. 3 Remove the timing belt upper right-hand (outer) cover. 4 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand roadwheel 5 From underneath the front of the vehicle, slacken and remove the three bolts securing the bumper flange to the body. Remove the seven bolts securing the front undercover panel to the body and remove the panel to gain access to the crankshaft pulley bolt. 6 Using a suitable spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until the long whitepainted mark on the crankshaft pulleys outboard (right-hand) face is aligned with the single, separate mark on the timing belt lower cover so that the crankshaft is in the 90 BTDC position (see Chapter 1 for details of the pulley/cover marks) (see illustration). 7 Check that the camshaft sprocket mark(s) align as described in paragraph 15, showing that Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are at 90 BTDC so that there is no risk of the valves contacting the pistons during dismantling and reassembly. If the camshaft sprocket mark(s) are 180 out, rotate the crankshaft through one complete turn (360) to align the marks as described (see illustration). 8 On K16 engines, use the tool described in Section 9 to lock up the camshaft sprockets
8.7 Camshaft sprocket marks (A) aligned with timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover mark (B) - K16 engine so that they cannot move under valve spring pressure when the timing belt is removed. 9 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt lower cover. 10 Position a trolley jack with a wooden spacer beneath the sump then gently jack it up to take the weight of the engine. 11 Slacken and remove the engine/gearbox unit right-hand mounting through-bolt and nut and the mounting-to-bracket nuts. Remove the mounting, along with the two rubber washers which are fitted on each side of the mounting. On K8 engines only, unscrew the retaining bolts securing the bracket to cylinder block/crankcase and remove it from the engine unit (see illustration). 12 Slacken both the timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and the tensioner backplate clamp bolt through half a turn each, then push the pulley assembly downwards to remove all the tension from the timing belt. Hold the tensioner pulley in this position and re-tighten the backplate clamp bolt securely (see illustration). 13 Slip the belt off the sprockets (see illustration). Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt has been refitted.

5 Inspect the head very carefully for cracks, evidence of coolant leakage and other damage. If cracks are found, a new cylinder head should be obtained. 6 Use a straight-edge and feeler gauge blade to check that the cylinder head surface is not distorted (see illustrations). If it is, it may be possible to resurface it, provided that the specified reface limit is not exceeded in so doing, or that the cylinder head is not reduced to less than the specified height. 7 Examine the valve seats in each of the combustion chambers. If they are severely
7.7 Check valve seat wear by measuring valve stem installed height (A)
7.12 Measuring valve stem diameter
2B6 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
7.15 Grinding-in a valve seat even the renewal of the valve or seat insert is required. 14 Valve grinding is carried out as follows. Place the cylinder head upside down on a bench. 15 Smear a trace of (the appropriate grade of) valve-grinding compound on the seat face and press a suction grinding tool onto the valve head. With a semi-rotary action, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding compound (see illustration). A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. 16 If coarse grinding compound is being used, work only until a dull, matt even surface is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, then wipe off the used compound and repeat the process with fine compound. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced on both the valve and seat, the grinding operation is complete. Do not grind in the valves any further than absolutely necessary, or the seat will be prematurely sunk into the cylinder head. 17 To check that the seat has not been overground, measure the valve stem installed height, as described in paragraph 7. 18 When all the valves have been ground-in, carefully wash off all traces of grinding compound using paraffin or a suitable solvent.
7.19 Measuring valve spring free length Use a little grease to hold the collets in place. Release the compressor, then repeat the procedure on the remaining valves. 5 With all the valves installed, place the cylinder head flat on the bench and, using a hammer and interposed block of wood, tap the end of each valve stem to settle the components. 6 Refit the hydraulic tappets and camshaft(s) as described in Part A of this Chapter.
damage and discoloration and also measure their free length using vernier calipers or by comparing each existing spring with a new component (see illustration). 20 Stand each spring on a flat surface and check it for squareness. If any of the springs are damaged, distorted or have lost their tension, then obtain a complete new set of springs. 21 Check the hydraulic tappets as described in Part A of this Chapter.

6 Undo the inertia switch retaining nut and disengage the switch from the steering column support bracket.
10.4 Remove blower motor-to-heater unit duct
10.5a Undo right-hand duct retaining screw (arrowed).
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 39
10.5b. and disengage duct from heater unit
10.7a Release wiring connector from steering column support bracket and remove fusebox nut (arrowed)
10.7b Remove mounting bolts and manoeuvre steering column mounting bracket out of position
retaining nut. Slacken and remove the five support bracket retaining bolts and remove the bracket from the vehicle (see illustrations). 8 Disconnect the air recirculation cable inner from the flap and free the cable outer from the blower motor. 9 Prise out the stud securing the rear heater duct sleeve to the bottom of the heater unit, then slide the sleeve down to disengage it from the unit (see illustration). 10 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the heater control panel, then remove the two upper heater unit retaining nuts and carefully manoeuvre the heater unit out of the vehicle (see illustrations).
10.9 Remove retaining stud and disengage rear heater duct sleeve from heater unit
10.10a Disconnect wiring from heater control panel.

Heater matrix

11 Remove the heater unit. 12 Undo the screw securing the matrix outlet pipe bracket to the heater unit and remove the bracket (see illustration). 13 Slacken and remove the two matrix cover retaining screws, then remove the cover and withdraw the matrix from the heater unit (see illustrations). 14 If the matrix is leaking, it is best to obtain a new or reconditioned unit as home repairs are seldom successful. If it is blocked, it can sometimes be cleared by reverse flushing using a garden hose. Use a proprietary radiator cleaning product if absolutely necessary.
10.10b. and remove heater retaining nuts
10.12 Undo retaining screw and remove matrix outlet pipe bracket
10.13a Undo two matrix cover retaining screws.
10.13b. then remove cover.
10.13c. and withdraw matrix from heater unit
310 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
10.15 Glovebox damper retaining screw (arrowed)
10.16 Remove glovebox support rail.
10.17. then remove blower motor-toheater unit duct cover. Slacken and remove the three motor retaining bolts and withdraw the motor assembly from the blower unit. Undo the fan retaining nut and separate the fan and motor, noting the seal fitted between the two components (see illustrations).

8 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the heater locating projection is correctly engaged in the manifold recess. On completion, lower the vehicle to the ground and refill the cooling system.

Manifold heater relay

15 Refer to Chapter 12.
16 Inlet manifold removal and refitting
Pre-heater temperature switch
9 The pre-heater temperature switch is fitted to the underside of the inlet manifold (see illustration). Either drain the cooling system or be prepared for some loss of coolant as the switch is unscrewed. 10 Release the wire retaining clip and disconnect the wiring connector from the switch. 11 Unscrew the switch from the manifold and withdraw it, then plug the opening to prevent the entry of dirt. If the cooling system has not been drained, work quickly to minimise coolant loss.
Note: The following procedure describes removal of the manifold with the carburettor. Access to some of the components concerned is much improved if the carburettor is first removed separately and if this is done, the following procedure should be amended as required.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly. 3 Drain the cooling system. 4 Disconnect the accelerator and choke cables. 5 Slacken the retaining clamps and disconnect the coolant hoses from the inlet manifold. 6 Trace the float chamber vent hose and the full load air bleed hose from the carburettor down to their metal pipes then unscrew the nut and bolts securing the pipes to the cylinder block/crankcase. 7 Using pliers, release the retaining clip and
12 Wipe clean the threads of the switch and of the thermostat housing. If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it whenever it is disturbed to prevent leaks. If no sealing washer is fitted, apply a smear of sealant to the switch threads. 13 Refit the switch, working quickly if the
13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following (see illustrations): a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder
16.13a Fit a new manifold gasket.
16.13b. and fit inlet manifold - less carburettor
16.13c Inlet manifold tightening sequence - K8 engine
4A10 Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor engines
head mating surfaces are clean and dry, then fit a new manifold gasket. Working in the sequence shown, tighten the manifold retaining nuts and bolts evenly to the specified torque wrench setting. Ensure all relevant hoses are reconnected to their original positions and are securely held (where necessary) by their retaining clips. Renew the vacuum servo unit vacuum hose banjo union sealing washers and tighten the union bolt. Adjust the accelerator and choke cables. On completion, refill the cooling system.
17.8a Refitting exhaust manifold with new gasket 1 On models not equipped with a catalytic converter the exhaust system is in three sections. All exhaust sections are joined by a flanged joint. If a catalytic converter is fitted, it is situated between the front pipe and the

9 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following: a) Ensure that the manifold and cylinder head sealing faces are clean and flat, then fit a new manifold gasket. b) Working in the sequence shown (see illustration), tighten the manifold retaining nuts evenly to the specified torque wrench setting. c) Tighten all other disturbed nuts and bolts to their specified torque wrench settings (where given).
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly. 3 Remove the alternator. 4 Referring to Part D of this Chapter, release the lambda sensor multiplug from the gearbox bracket and disconnect the plug from the sensor. 5 Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 6 Unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust front pipe to the manifold, then disconnect the pipe and collect the gasket.
44 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following: a) Thoroughly clean all component parts, paying particular attention to the mating surfaces. b) Ensure that a metal insert is located in each manifold stud or bolt hole. c) Always fit a new manifold gasket (see illustration). d) Working in the sequence shown (see illustration), tighten the manifold
18 Exhaust system inspection,removal and refitting
16.44a Fit a new inlet manifold gasket (arrowed)
16.44b Plastic inlet manifold tightening sequence
17.9 Exhaust manifold tightening sequence
Chapter 4 Part D Emission control systems
Catalytic converters - general information and precautions. 2 Emission control system components - testing and renewal. 3 General information. 1
Lambda sensor. Nm 55 lbf ft 41 engine is worn, the raised crankcase pressure (due to increased blow-by) will cause some of the flow to return under all manifold conditions. the crankcase, through a wire mesh oil separator in the cylinder head cover, into the inlet tract to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. On carburettor engines, a single breather hose connects the cylinder head cover to the carburettor continuousdepression area. On fuel-injected engines, a small-bore breather hose connects the cylinder head cover to the throttle body downstream of the throttle disc, while a larger-bore hose is connected above the throttle disc so that the same effect is obtained at all states of manifold depression. Under conditions of high manifold depression (idling, deceleration), the gases will be sucked positively out of the crankcase. Under conditions of low manifold depression (acceleration, full-throttle running), the gases are forced out of the crankcase by the (relatively) higher crankcase pressure. If the

Starter motor

Type. Rating. Brush minimum length.
Alternator Pulley retaining nut. Mounting/pivot/adjusting arm bolts. Starter motor Motor-to-gearbox bolts. Motor support bracket fasteners: Bracket front half-to-motor nuts. Bracket front half-to-rear half bolt. Bracket rear half-to-gearbox bolts.
5C2 Starting and charging systems
4 If frequent topping-up is required and the battery case is not fractured, then the battery is being over-charged and the voltage regulator will have to be checked. 5 If the vehicle covers a very small annual mileage, it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity of the electrolyte every three months to determine the state of charge of the battery. Use a hydrometer to make the check and compare the results with the following table: Discharged Half charged Fully charged Normal climates 1.120 1.200 1.280 Tropics 1.080 1.160 1.230

2 Battery - maintenance

The electrical system is of the 12 volt negative earth type and comprises a 12 volt battery, alternator with integral voltage regulator, starter motor and related electrical accessories, components and wiring. The battery is charged by an alternator which is belt-driven. The starter motor is of the pre-engaged type incorporating an integral solenoid. On starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion into engagement with the flywheel ring gear before the starter motor is energised. Once the engine has started, a one-way clutch prevents the motor armature being driven by the engine until the pinion disengages from the flywheel.
Refer to Chapter 1 and Weekly Checks.
3 Battery testing and charging
It is necessary to take extra care when working on the electrical system to avoid damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes and transistors), and to avoid the risk of personal injury. In addition to the precautions given in the Safety first! Section at the beginning of this manual, take note of the following points when working on the system. Always remove rings, watches, etc before working on the electrical system. Even with the battery disconnected, capacitive discharge could occur if a component live terminal is earthed through a metal object. This could cause a shock or nasty burn. Do not reverse the battery connections. Components such as the alternator or any other having semi-conductor circuitry could be irreparably damaged. If the engine is being started using jump leads and a slave battery, connect the batteries positive to positive and negative to negative. This also applies when connecting a battery charger. Always ensure that the battery negative lead is disconnected when working on the electrical system. Do not allow the engine to turn the alternator when the alternator is not connected. Never test for alternator output by flashing the output lead to earth. Never disconnect the battery terminals, or alternator multi-plug connector, when the engine is running. The battery leads and alternator multi-plug must be disconnected before carrying out any electric welding on the vehicle. Never use an ohmmeter of the type incorporating a hand cranked generator for circuit or continuity testing.

11.4a Note alignment marks between yoke and grommet.
11.4b. then remove through-bolts and withdraw end cover
11.6a Remove plastic insulating plate.
11.6b. remove brush spring caps and springs.
11.6c. and remove positive brush assembly from motor
11.7 Measuring starter motor brush length
Starting and charging systems 5C7
11.14 Unscrew nut and disconnect starter motor lead from solenoid terminal free to move in their holders against spring pressure. 11 Refit the starter motor end cover, engaging it with the grommet, and aligning the marks noted on removal. Tighten the cover through-bolts securely. 12 Refit any necessary thrustwashers to the end of the armature and secure them in position with the C-clip. Refit the gasket and small cover to the end cover and tighten its retaining screws securely. Connect the positive brush lead to the solenoid terminal and tighten the nut securely.
11.15 Remove solenoid retaining bolts (one arrowed). 13 Refit the support bracket to the motor and tighten its retaining nuts to the specified torque.
11.16. then release solenoid plunger from lever and remove assembly from motor motor drive end bracket (see illustration). 16 Release the solenoid plunger from the starter engaging lever, then withdraw the solenoid, noting the spring which is fitted to the plunger (see illustration).

Solenoid

14 Slacken and remove the nut and spring washer securing the starter motor (positive brush) lead to the solenoid and disconnect the lead from the solenoid terminal (see illustration). 15 Unscrew the two bolts and spring washers securing the solenoid to the starter
17 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the solenoid, its plunger and the motor/solenoid mating surfaces are clean and lubricate the plunger/starter engaging lever surfaces with a smear of grease (Rover recommend Shell Alvania).

Chapter 9 Braking system

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) - component removal and refitting. Brake pedal - removal and refitting. Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting. Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting. Front brake pads - inspection. Front brake pads - renewal. General information and precautions. Handbrake cables - removal and refitting. Handbrake lever - removal and refitting. Hydraulic fluid - level check and renewal. Hydraulic pipes and hoses - inspection. Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal. Hydraulic system - bleeding. 6 Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting. Pressure regulating valve - testing, removal and refitting. Rear brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting. Rear brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting. Rear brake drum - removal, inspection and refitting. Rear brake pads - inspection. Rear brake pads - renewal. Rear brake shoes - inspection. Rear brake shoes - renewal. Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting. Stop lamp switch - removal, refitting and adjustment. Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting. Vacuum servo unit check valve - removal, testing and refitting. 4

ABS system

18 Carefully prise out the dust cap from the rear of the master cylinder body and remove the flat washer. 19 Using a wooden dowel, press the primary

98 Braking system

piston in as far as possible and extract the circlip and washer. Withdraw the primary piston assembly and spring. 20 Undo the grub screw from the underside of the master cylinder body then use the wooden dowel to press the secondary piston into the body and withdraw the secondary piston retaining pin. Extract the secondary piston assembly and spring. If necessary, the piston can be dislodged by tapping the master cylinder body on a wooden block. 21 Examine and overhaul the master cylinder components as described above in paragraphs 9 to 14. 22 Fit the spring to the secondary piston assembly and use a clean wooden dowel to press the assembly fully into the master cylinder bore. Align the slot in the piston with the retaining pin hole then insert the secondary piston retaining pin. Refit the grub screw and tighten it securely. 23 Fit the spring to the primary piston assembly and press the assembly into position using the wooden dowel. Refit the washer and secure the piston assembly in position with the circlip, ensuring that it is correctly located in its groove in the master cylinder bore. 24 Fit the flat washer and refit the dust cap to the rear of the master cylinder body. 25 Align the lugs on the new mounting seals with the slots in the master cylinder body and press them into position. Carefully refit the reservoir, ensuring that it is pressed fully into the master cylinder body.
26 Remove all traces of dirt from the master cylinder and servo unit mating surfaces, then fit a new O-ring to the groove on the master cylinder body. 27 Fit the master cylinder to the servo unit, ensuring that the servo unit pushrod enters the master cylinder bore centrally. Refit the master cylinder washers and mounting nuts and tighten them to the specified torque. 28 Wipe clean the brake pipe unions then refit them to the master cylinder ports and tighten them to the specified torque setting. 29 Refill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid and bleed the hydraulic system.
Never blow it with compressed air or inhale it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. DO NOT use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or methylated spirit only.
1 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Remove both front roadwheels. 2 Remove the lower caliper guide pin bolt whilst, if necessary, using a slim open-ended spanner to prevent the guide pin itself from rotating. Pivot the caliper away from the disc to gain access to the brake pads and tie it to the suspension strut using a piece of wire (see illustrations). 3 Remove the circular shim which is fitted to the caliper piston (see illustration). 4 Remove the brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket whilst noting the correct position of the pad retainer springs and pad shims (see illustration). 5 Measure the thickness of friction material remaining on each brake pad (see illustration). If either pad is worn at any point to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed. Also, the pads should be renewed if any are fouled with oil or grease as there is no satisfactory way of degreasing friction material once contaminated. If any of the brake pads are worn unevenly or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify the cause before reassembly. New brake pad kits are available from Rover dealers and include new shims and pad retainer springs. 6 If the brake pads are still serviceable, carefully clean them using a clean, fine wire brush or similar, paying particular attention to the sides and back of the metal backing. Clean out the grooves in the friction material (where applicable) and pick out any large embedded particles of dirt or debris. Carefully clean the pad retainer springs and the pad locations in the caliper body and mounting bracket.

17 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following: a) Ensure the sensor and hub sealing faces are clean, then install the sensor and shim and tighten the sensor retaining bolts to the specified torque. b) Refit the sensor cover, cover strap retaining bolt and sensor lead brackets, then tighten all retaining bolts to the specified torque. c) Reconnect the sensor lead wiring connector and refit the connector to its retaining clip.
26 Anti-lock Braking system (ABS) - component removal and refitting Modulator block
6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following: a) Tighten the modulator block mounting nuts to the specified torque. b) Refit the brake pipes to their respective unions and tighten the union nuts to the specified torque. c) On completion, bleed the braking system.

Reluctor rings

18 The reluctor rings are not available as separate items. The front rings are available only as an integral part of the outer constant velocity joint assembly and the rear rings are available only as an integral part of the rear hub. 19 The front reluctor rings are situated on the outer constant velocity joint and the rear reluctor rings are part of the stub axle assembly. Examine the rings for signs of damage such as chipped or missing teeth and renew as necessary.
1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal then undo the screw and remove the modulator relay cover (see illustration). 2 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the modulator and free the wiring from its retaining clip on the unit. 3 Disconnect the sender unit wiring connector and unscrew the master cylinder reservoir filler cap. Place a piece of polythene over the filler neck and securely refit the cap (taking care not to damage the sender unit). This will minimise brake fluid loss during subsequent operations. As an added precaution, place absorbent rags beneath the modulator brake pipe unions. 4 Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe unions then make a note of how the pipes are arranged for reference when refitting. Unscrew the union nuts and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe ends and valve orifices to minimise the loss of

Front wheel sensor

7 Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support on axle stands. Remove the appropriate front roadwheel. 8 From inside the engine compartment, disconnect the relevant sensor wiring connector and displace the sensor wiring grommet. 9 From underneath the vehicle, pull the sensor wiring lead through the wing valance then undo the sensor lead bracket retaining bolts and remove the brackets. 10 Slacken and remove the two bolts securing the sensor unit to the wheel hub then remove the sensor and lead assembly.

10.6 Using special Rover mandrels to renew lower suspension arm bush A Removing old bush lower arm balljoint moves freely without any sign of roughness and that the balljoint gaiter shows no sign of deterioration and is free from cracks and splits. Examine the shank of the pivot bolt for signs of wear or scoring. Renew worn components, as necessary. 6 Check the lower arm inner pivot bush and renew it if worn, cracked, split or perished. Bush renewal is best left to a Rover dealer as a press, a special bush removal/refitting mandrel and a support are required (Rover Service Tool Numbers 18G 1600/2 and 18G 1600/1 respectively). While the old bush can be extracted using a strong bench vice and suitable sockets, it is unlikely that new bushes can be installed successfully without the shaped mandrel (see illustration). B Fitting new bush 10 Refit the roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified torque. 11 With the vehicle standing on its wheels, rock the suspension to settle the lower arm bush in position then tighten the lower arm-tobody pivot bolt to the specified torque setting. 12 Check and, if necessary, adjust front wheel alignment.
11 Rear hub and bearings removal and refitting
7 Offer up the lower arm and fit the arm to body pivot bolt. Tighten the bolt by hand only at this stage. 8 Insert the lower arm balljoint shank into the swivel hub and tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque. Secure the balljoint nut in position with a new split pin. 9 Refit the tie bar and anti-roll bar connecting link to lower arm bolts and tighten them to the specified torque.
Note: The bearing is a sealed, pre-adjusted and pre-lubricated, double-row tapered-roller type and is intended to last the vehicles entire service life without maintenance or attention. Never overtighten the hub nut beyond the specified torque wrench setting in an attempt to adjust the bearings. Note: The bearing is an integral part of the hub and can not be purchased separately. If renewal of the bearing is necessary, the complete hub assembly must be renewed as a unit. The only component which is available separately are roadwheel studs.
8 Prior to refitting the hub, inspect the stub axle for signs of wear or scoring and, if necessary, renew it. 9 Apply a thin smear of grease to the hub bearing seal and refit the hub assembly. Refit the toothed washer, ensuring that its tooth locates with the groove in the stub axle. Install the new hub nut, tightening it by hand only (see illustrations). 10 Refit the brake drum or disc (as applicable) but do not refit the roadwheel.
11.2 Prise off centre cap to gain access to rear hub nut

1 Insert the key to ensure the steering column is unlocked, then release the column tilt lever and position the steering wheel at the lowest possible position. Remove the steering wheel. 2 Disconnect the battery negative terminal then undo the five right-hand lower facia panel retaining screws and remove the panel from the facia. 3 Prise the large snap-ring which secures the two halves of the steering column shroud together from the top of the shrouds and remove the ignition key. Undo the three screws securing the lower shroud to the steering column and remove both the upper and lower steering column shrouds (see illustrations).
19.3a Prise off snap-ring.
19.3b. undo lower shroud retaining screws (arrowed).
19.3c. and remove lower and upper shrouds
Suspension and steering 1015
19.5 Combination switch assembly is retained by two screws (arrowed) 4 Lift the indicator cancelling cam off the steering column and disconnect the wiring connectors from the rear of the steering column combination switch assembly. 5 Undo the two combination switch retaining screws and slide the assembly off the end of the steering column (see illustration). 6 Trace the ignition switch wiring back to its wiring connectors and disconnect them from the main wiring loom. 7 Pull back the drivers footwell carpet and remove the two studs securing the lower column cover to the floor. Remove the two retaining clips from the upper end of the cover and withdraw the cover (see illustrations). 8 Using a hammer and punch, white paint or similar, mark the exact relationship between the steering column shaft and shaft-tosteering gear universal joint, then slacken and remove the pinch-bolt securing the joint to the column shaft. 9 Undo the nut and bolt securing the lower steering column mounting clamp in position and remove the clamp (see illustration). Slacken and remove the two nuts and bolts securing the upper mounting assembly to the vehicle then disengage the column from its mounting studs and universal joint then remove it from the vehicle.
19.7a Remove retaining clips.
19.7b. and withdraw lower steering column cover
10 Before refitting the steering column, closely examine the upper mounting assembly for damage or misalignment.
11 Align the marks made on dismantling and engage the steering column shaft splines with those of the universal joint. 12 Locate the upper mounting bracket assembly over its mounting studs and refit the upper mounting nuts and bolts. Refit the lower mounting clamp and tighten its retaining nut and bolt to the specified torque setting, then tighten the upper mounting nuts and bolts to their specified torque settings. 13 Refit the universal joint to steering column pinch-bolt and tighten it to the specified torque. Refit the lower cover over the steering column and secure it in position with the retaining clips and studs. 14 Refit the combination switch to the column and tighten its screws securely. Refit the indicator cancelling cam to the steering column, ensuring that it is correctly located with the switch assembly, and reconnect the combination and ignition switch wiring connectors (see illustration). Ensure that the wiring is correctly routed and secured by any relevant clips. 15 Offer up the two halves of the steering column shroud and refit the three retaining screws to the lower shroud. Ensure the shroud halves are clipped firmly together, then refit the snap ring to its groove. 16 Refit the lower facia panel, tightening its retaining screws securely, then refit the steering wheel.

25.4b. and withdraw pulley. Note FRONT mark on pulley face (arrowed)
25.5a Unscrew power steering pump mounting bolts (three arrowed).
7 Refitting is a reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following (see illustration): a) Tighten the pump mounting bolts to the specified torque. b) Fit a new O-ring to the pump outlet pipe union and tighten the union nut to the specified torque. c) Ensure the pulley is correctly installed and lightly tighten its mounting bolts. d) Refit and adjust the drivebelt, then tighten the pulley mounting bolts to the specified torque. e) On completion, bleed the hydraulic system.
26 Power steering oil cooler removal and refitting
1 Remove the right-hand headlamp assembly. 2 Remove the bonnet lock. 3 Position a suitable container beneath the power steering oil cooler hose connections to catch any spilt fluid, then slacken the hose retaining clips and disconnect both hoses (see illustration). Plug the hose and oil cooler ends to prevent excessive fluid loss and possible entry of dirt into the system.

25.5b. and remove pump

25.7 Always renew outlet pipe O-ring (arrowed)
26.3 Slacken clamps and disconnect hoses from power steering oil cooler
1020 Suspension and steering
2 If the balljoint is to be re-used, use a straight-edge and a scriber, or similar, to mark its relationship to the track rod. 3 Holding the balljoint, unscrew its locknut by one quarter of a turn. 4 Extract the split pin and undo the nut securing the steering gear track rod balljoint to the swivel hub. Release the balljoint shank by using a suitable balljoint separator tool whilst taking care not to damage the balljoint gaiter (see illustration). 5 Unscrew the balljoint from the track rod, counting the exact number of turns necessary to do so. If the locknut is to be removed, mark its position on the track rod and count the number of turns required to remove it so that it can be returned exactly to its original position on reassembly. 6 Carefully clean the balljoint and the threads. Renew the balljoint if its movement is sloppy or too stiff, if it is excessively worn, or if it is damaged in any way. Carefully check the stud taper and threads. No grease leakage should be visible.
26.4a Power steering oil cooler upper mounting bolts (arrowed) 4 Undo the three oil cooler mounting bracket retaining bolts, then manoeuvre the oil cooler assembly out from between the front bumper and body (see illustrations).

1 At vehicle start-up, a warning light located in the steering wheel centre pad will illuminate when the system electrical circuits are activated by turning the ignition switch to position II and will stay illuminated for 3 seconds whilst the system performs a selfdiagnosis test. If this test is satisfactory, the light will extinguish. If the test is unsatisfactory, the light will remain on or fail to illuminate at all, denoting that the system must be serviced as soon as possible. System operation is as follows: 2 Upon the vehicle suffering a frontal impact over a specified force, a sensor inside the airbag control unit, which is located in the steering wheel centre, activates the system. A sensor (fitted to discriminate between actual impact and driving on rough road surfaces, etc.) is also activated and power is supplied to the airbag ignitor from the battery or a backup circuit, causing the airbag to inflate within 30 milliseconds. 3 As the driver of the vehicle is thrown foward into the inflated airbag it immediately discharges its contents through a vent, thereby providing a progressive deceleration and reducing the risk of injury from contact with the steering wheel, facia or windscreen. The total time taken from the start of airbag inflation to its complete deflation is approximately 0.1 seconds.
Note: For safety reasons, owners are strongly advised against attempting to diagnose problems with the SRS using standard workshop equipment. The information in this Section is therefore limited to those components in the SRS which must be removed to gain access to other components on the vehicle. Read carefully the precautions given in Section 1 of this Chapter before commencing work on any part of the system. Note: All SRS system wiring can be identified by its yellow protective covering.
b) Observe the specified torque wrench setting when tightening the airbag retaining screws (TX30 Torx type) and take care not to cross-thread them. c) With the airbag unit in position, press either side of the steering wheel to allow the ridge on the wheel to engage in the groove of the airbag unit. d) Reconnect both battery leads, negative lead last, and turn the ignition switch to the II position. Check the condition of the system by observing the SRS warning light located in the steering wheel centre pad. The light should stay illuminated for 3 seconds whilst the system performs a self-diagnosis test. If the test is satisfactory, the light will extinguish. If the test is unsatisfactory, the light will remain on or fail to illuminate at all, denoting that the system must be serviced as soon as possible.

Airbag control unit

6 Remove the airbag unit.

Airbag unit

1 Remove the ignition key and wait at least ten minutes to allow the system backup circuit to fully discharge. Disconnect both battery leads, earth lead first, to avoid accidental detonation of the airbag. 2 Remove the two airbag unit retaining screws which are accessed from behind the steering wheel (see illustration). 3 Carefully prise the airbag unit away from the steering wheel to gain access to its wiring behind. Do not allow the unit to hang from its wiring. 4 Unplug the wiring connector from the rear of the airbag unit and carefully remove the unit from the vehicle, placing it in safe storage.

Rover 414 Si

57-0167
Instruction Sheet A2054-193-1 Page 1 of 4
PLEASE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE FITTING THE KIT. If you have a problem, however small, call our Technical Department. Tel:- 01925 636950. Fax:- 01925 243111. Mon - Thurs 8.30 - 5pm. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Remove the three air box screws and remove the lid. Remove the two hoses, green tab and white tab, Drawing A. Using the screw supplied seal the end of the small red plastic pipe together with the plastic unit and attach to the other pipes, secure with the medium size plastic tie. Remove the complete air filter box assembly including the flexi rubber hose attached behind the nearside headlight. Remove rubber gasket. Remove the green plug from the green cold start sensor in the air box. Unscrew the sensor and refit the plug. Push the sensor and plug into the hole in the base of the filter (front section). Drawing C & D. Fitting the air filter. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY. Make sure the filter neck and the intake flange are clean and free of oil. Fit the filter onto the flange, with the logo facing front and sensor in the middle hole. Hold the filter down and tighten the clip carefully until the filter will just turn on the flange, then one full turn 360 , No More. Cold Air System. Carefully expand the flexi air hose to approx. 42"/106cm. Drawing E. Remove the plastic screen next to the radiator. Cut out the section shown with a round cutter 2.25"/57mm. Alternatively cut out a square section 57mm x 57mm. Refit the plastic screen. Carefully elongate the end of the hose by tapping gently with the palm of the hand. Don't press. Feed the hose through the new hole from the engine side, turn down and then forward into the lower grille section Drawing E. Pierce a small hole in the ovalised hose and attach with a small plastic tie to the upright position. Continue hose towards the filter. Attach with plastic ties as Drawing F. The cold air should finish 4"/10cm from the filter, No Nearer. Point hose as Drawing G. Tuning. CAT. Cars. No adjustments are required. An increase in fuel may be required if further engine modofocation are to be carried out. Filter maintenance. Under normal conditions clean and reoil the filterat approx. 40,000 miles/65,000 Km. Use only K&N cleaner and oil and follow the instructions carefully. K&N Filters are pre-oiled ready to fit.

7. 7.1.

7.2. 7.3.

7.4. 8.

The advantages of K&N's cold air intake system Cooler air being denser, will show positive improvements in power over filter systems that draw hot air from the engine bay.
Instruction Sheet A2054-193-1 Page 2 of 4
This kit should contain:1 x Air Filter. 1 x Hose Clip size 100/120. 1 x Cold Air Hose Assembly. 1 x Instruction Sheet. 1 x Instruction Pack :1 x Filter Maintenance Sheet. 1 x K&N Window Sticker. 1 x Million Mile Warranty Card. 1 x Leaflet. 1 x Fixing Kit containing:1 x Plastic Cable Tie (10cm Long). 3 x Plastic Cable Tie (35cm Long) 1 x Plastic Cable Tie (19cm Long). 1 x M5 x 10 Pan Head Screw.
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS FOR ROUND ENTRY CLAMP ON AIR FILTERS Gently tighten the hose clip to the point where the filter will just rotate on the pipe or intake flange Reposition the K&N logo straight, then give the clip two turns i.e. 360 , no more.
FITTING YOUR OWN 57i KIT If not, it is essential that the person fitting the kit (e.g. mechanic) carefully follows these particular instructions even if he has fitted K&N kits before. This will save you both time and money. Kits incorrectly fitted may show a loss in performance e.g. the positioning of the essential cold air hose, (flexi expandable and rubber hoses are used). A final check under the bonnet, by yourself, with the instructions, would seem sensible.

A2054-193-1 Page 3 of 4

Drawing A
air filter base black plastic unit

TOP VIEW

Remove hoses and lift out black plastic unit refit hoses correctly to the plastic unit. Attach to hose as Drawing B.

SIDE VIEW

white tab

green tab

Drawing B
metal pipe bulkhead black plastic unit Seal end of red pipe with screw. Attach with the medium size plastic tie.

K&N

red pipe

Drawing D

Drawing C
TOP VIEW FRONT VIEW Front K&N
hole in filter base for sensor sensor and plug

Drawing E

A2054-193-1 Page 4 of 4
Plastic screen Cut out See section 7-2 Radiator
Pierce a small hole in the hose and attach small plastic tie to upright

Drawing F

4"/10cm from the filter NO NEARER

long plastic tie

cam cover
long plastic tie hose hole in hose oval end small plastic tie upright

DRAWING G

Bonnet

4"/10cm NO NEARER