EC.ZZ.SP STSU

Pages 6 to 11 deal mainly with straight sewing and apply to all Elna sewing machines.

Straight Sewing - fig. 8

This is generally no problem, but remember to adapt your stitch length to the type of material. Fine material; fairly short stitches. Medium or heavy material longer stitches. Only guide the work, without holding it back or pulling it.
The stitches are too long

fig. 9

Stitch lengths between 2 and 3, for example, may cause fine material to gather. Reduce the stitch length to between 1 and 1%' and your sewing will be correct.

6 EREEC-ZZ-SP.ST-SU

Thicknesses - fig. 10
M X _ (0 2-4 necessary, it is possible to lift the foot in order to place especially 11 thick pieces of work underneath it. Do not forget to lower the foot lever again, otherwise your sewing will not be satisfactory.

fig 11lr

For sewing coarse pleats or across seams
Guide the work as shown in the illustration, It will slide easily under the foot.
Gathering with Elastic Threadfig. 12-13-14

1 11t't

Wind elastic thread (Lastex) onto the bobbin and thread it into
the lower tension. - fig. 12.
The upper thread should be a good quality sewing or embroidery thread. Make a trial. Trho gathers will be more pronounced with a long stitch (if necessary, increase the upper tension). The material needed will be about twice as long as the finished
Itis possible to sew two, three or more rows of gathers. This method can also be used for smocking. If necessary, a sheet of paper may be placed on the material to hold it in place during sewing. Tear off the paper after sewing. Wrong side

- fig.

Right side

fig. 14

EC-ZZ.5P-ST-SU

Gathering

fig 15
When gathering a fine or medium material you can make use of the stitch length and, if necessary, of the tensions. Set the maximum stitch length 4 and a very weak upper tension. Sew two parallel rows of stitches, one next to the other. Knot the threads at one end and pull the two lower threads to form the gathers. This makes it easy to distribute the gathers on the threads. to give roundness to a sleeve, for example. For more than just occasional gathering jobs, use the gathering foot - see pages 10-11.

Sewing Net Curtains

fig. 16-17
Theo side or bottom hems can be sewn with straight stitching, in case of need, Make sure thie meshes of the cuirtain match (if the pattern allows) -fig. 16: wrong, fig. 17: right. Pin or baste, Since it is not always easy to follow the straight in some net curtains, it is a good idea to hold the material behind and in front of the foot. if necessary, reduce the upper tension (see pages 48-49),

ECZZSP'STSU

Zip Fasteners - fig. 21
Zipper foot M 0 (0 1-4 Needle position wheel in the center. The zipper foot can be moved to the left or the right of the needle. This makes it possible to sew in the zip fastener without turning the work, by sewing first on one side of the foot and then on the other. Begin with the fastener zipped up, then, when you reach the middle, leave the needle in and open the zip. This makes it easier to get past the clasp of the zip fastener. Some other uses for extra accessories that can be acquired - see also pages 52-57.

Gathering foot

fig. - 18-20

Kg (3 3-4

For more than just occasional gathering jobs with fine or fairly fine material, it is preferable to use the gathering foot, Fig. 18 - Place the material to be gathered underneath the gathering foot, as for ordinary sewing. The gathers will become more pronounced if the upper tension is increased and the stitches are lengthened, Fig. 19-20 - To gather and sew on a flounce at the same time, place it underneath the foot from the left. Then insert the top piece of material from the left, into the side slot of the foot, being careful to keep it flat. Insert the needle and sew a few stitches while holding back the ends of the threads. Guide both pieces of material at the same time while sewing. The top piece of material must be fed regularly into the foot and should not be held back or the stitches will be uneven. Do not hold back the flounce. The material for the flounce must be longer than the main piece of material. N B,: To sew further from the edge, the needle should be decentered towards the left.
Pages 12-22 deal mainly with zigzag sewing with Elna ZZ, SP. ST and SUJ

Overcasting - fig. 22-23

_5 ' 1 C 2-4
Fig. 22 - Simply proceed as shown in the illustration. In the case of a medium or thick material. use stitch width 4, lengtih 1as-2 and guide the material along the slot in the foot.
24 Fig. 23 -A hint for fine mnaterials: place the edge of the material underneath the middle of the sewing foot and guide it according to the guide mark engraved on the foot. Stitch width 4, length 1II-2. The needle will then stitch over the edge of the material to the right, and the result will be neat overcasting withi a finished width of 2 mm,

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Patching - fig. 25-26

03 2-3

Place the patch over the damaged part. Fig. 26 - Sew two rows of zigzag stitches, one along the edge of the patch, the other slightly inside the first row. Cut out the damaged part of the material close to the stitching. This simple method avoids excess thicknesses or felled seams.

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Sewing on an Elastic

fig. 24

Place the elastic on the work as shown in the illustration, In this way it isnot necessary to pull the elastic, in order to stretch it. Just sew slowly, while feeding enough material under the foot to form gathers. The stitching will remain supple and easily stretchable. For very accurate work. insert a gathering thread and distribute the gathers before sewing orn thea elastic.

Sewing Stretch Fabrics

Sewing Jersey - fig. 27
With a narrow zigzag, the seam will remain supple and elastic. Open the seam and overcast as explained below,

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that have a tendency to fray.

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Overcasting Jersey

fig. 28

and materials
Depending on the quality of the material, you may eithier overcast in the ordinary way (see page 12) or overcast about 1 em ('A inch) from, the edge and then cut away the excess material; the result will be even better.

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Patching Jersey - fig. 29

_, iG, 2-3 (31

For jersey, it is preferable to use fine thread (darning thread). Cut out a round patch. Sew the first seam 1 cm (' inch) inside the edge, then the second seam. Cut away the loose edges of the patch and the damaged pan of the material.

Children's Sacks

fig. 30
For tops of socks that have stretched out of shape, use elastic thread (Lastex). Use darning thread of matching colour both as upper and lower threads. Place the top of the sock underneath the foot. Put in the needle before lowering the foot, pass a length of elastic thread around the needle in such a way that the two ends of the Lastex can be stretched while held between thumb and first finger. Lower the foot and let each Lastex thread pass through one of the grooves in the foot. Sew, while pulling gently on the Lastex threads. If necessary, more than one row may be sewn. By sewing spirally round the top of the sock, there is no need to stop after each row. With ELIna SP, ST or SU it is preferable to use the overcasting stitch.

Tapered Satin Stitch

g1 X 1-4-1

- fig. 40

Pull out and turn the stitch width lever to the ' back and * forth 'position ' * b. The width of the satin stitch can thus be varied by hand. so that a monogram with a down- and upstroke effect is obtained. Suitable for monograms and ornamental designs. If necessary stretch the material in an embroidery hoop or reinforce it with a paper backing. The paper is removed after sewing.

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Small Monogramns

fig. 41

By using the darning foot and plate, it is easier to follow the curves of small monograms (to mark linen, for example), Practise with a few trial monograms first. Run the machine at a fast speed and guide the material slowly. If necessary, stretch the material in an embroidery hoop. It is obvious that such monograms require a certain amount of practice.

Fringes

X Gh 21

fig. 42

a3 2-4 IA%,,X
For tablecloths, tray cloths, scarves, etc. Sew a satin stitch 2 to 3 cm (about 1 inch) from the edge of the material and then pull out the threads on the outside. That's all there is to it. If you want to make it look even nicer, sew a wider or a tapered satin stitch parallel to the first.
Designs for Tablecloths - fig. 43
For this lovely design, sew the two straight portions with a satin stitch, stitch width 4. stitch length %24%, use the and tapered satin stitch for the flowers. The stems are sewn with a small satin stitch, stitch width 1-2.

ZZ-SP-ST-SU

Appliqu6 Work - fig. 44-45
This is fun to do. Sew the outline of the appliqu4 drawing with straight or small zigzag stitches, stitch width 1, stitch length 1. Then cut away the excess material close to the stitching.
Finish by sewing a sai tthoe h des of the appliqu4, stitch width as required. In this kind of work, the choice of pattern and colour is the main thing. Appliqu6s look good on aprons, pockets, tablecloths, curtains. cushions, et.
FinshyStlChove th edes f te apl214 a ati swin

Buttons - fig. 46

Set the stitch length at ' 0 -and adjust the stitch width, so that the needle passes through the eyes of the button. Sew 6 to 8 stitches. Pull the thread through underneath and knot. If you have to sew on buttons very often, you will find the button foot to be a great help (see extra accessories, pages 54-57).
Reinforced Buttonhole - fig. 47
, 2cs T 1 M 2-4 () Position the needle to the left. Thread a soft piece of embroidery cord under the left groove in the foot. Proceed as for ordinary buttonholes. Finish by pulling the two ends of the cord and cutting close to the buttonhole.

Sewing Stretch Towelling -fig. 63

113 Bp

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Such fabrics are sewn in the same way as jersey and ordinary stretch fabrics. But since the material stretches so easily, it is a good idea in some cases (when sewing side-seams, sleeves,
cuffs, necklines, etc.) to make sure the garment retains its
shape by simultaneously sewing an elastic thread placed flat under the foot in the left slot. The material is especially suitable for baby outfits and hooded wraps, pyjamas, tracksuits, T-shirts, etc. Garments will stretch (when put on) and then go back to their original shape each time.
Edge-on-Edge Sewing-fig. 64

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which will be subject to a lot of wear.
Edge-on-edge sewing may be required for garments or objects
With the multistretch stitch, the seams will retain their shape and remain perfectly elastic. Sew first one edge and then the other, as shown in the illustration. To give the stitching an attractive appearance, sew the stitches to the right flush with the edge and the stitches to the left well inside the edge.

Reinforcing

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fig. 65

If necessary, use the roller foot - see extra accessories, page 523 Sew along the edge of the patch (leather, plastic, etc.). The stitches to the right should be sewn into the garment flush with the patch and the stitches to the left should be sewn into the patch. The result will stand up to a lot of wear and the stitching lok eyatrcie Practical for sing o he o knees, shoulder, eb e1

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Handkerchief Borders - fig. 66-67
The multistretch stitch is just the thing for edging fine materials, handkerchiefs, scarves, flounces, etc. Fold the edge once, to a width of 1 cm (I/ inch). Sew, letting the stitches to the right be made off the material, flush with the edge. Then cut away the excess material along the seam. The result will be excellent. This method avoids the use of hems or rolled hems and is quickly done.
Scalloped Edges for Collars, Cuffs and Children's Clothes - fig. 68-69

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To decorate the edges of collars, cuffs or children's clothes, you can embroider a small piped scallop. After sewing as usual, finish off with a multistretch stitch, the stitches to the right being formed off the material, and those to the left just catching the edge of the garment. The effect is most attractive.
Elastic Blind Stitch - fig. 70

,=E ] ~2 E g2-4 i 31-2

For invisible hems. Place the material wrong side up. folded as in the illustration (a). Make sure that only the wide zigzag just catches the fold of the material. After sewing, open out and press. For woollens, stretch fabrics and jersey, it is not necessary to fold the hem twice. Leave it flat, as shown in the illustration (b), then overcast and sew the blind hem in a single operation. The stitching will remain easy to stretch. If you have to sew blind hems very often, you will find the special blind stitch foot extremely useful - see extra accessories, page 52.

Edging Stitch - fig. 71

The edging stitch is very useful. It is suitable for sewing borders on tablecloths, serviettes and small covers and also for applique work and reinforcing. If necessary, the stitching can be raised or the material held in shape by sewing one or two threads of pearl cotton, at the same time, which are placed flat under the foot in the right and left grooves. The stitch is also useful for repairing buttonholes. Proceed in the same way as with the zigzag stitch, as shown on page 22.

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72~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I
Elastic Shell Stitch - fig. 72

tizj2 a 4

Place the work as shown in the illustration and sew with the wide zigzag being stitched beyond the edge of the material. This stitch can be sewn directly onto the material, in the case of armholes or necklines in jersey underwear, for example, Otherwise, it can be sewn on a strip of bias material or other soft fabric, which is inserted afterwards.
Insertion of a Shell Hem - fig. 73
Gi>J2 X4 (A-%Y Place the work as shown in the illustration, making sure that the edging stitch closely follows the fold of the material.

Decorative Sewing

The stitches obtained with the selector on Elna SP - ST - SU can also be used for decorative sewing, to give added appeal to the articles you make. All you need is a little imagination and a bit of practice. It is preferable to use embroidery thread and choose matching colours. Reinforce soft material by putting paper underneath.
Scalloped Edging - fig. 74

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This kind of scallops is made by folding the edge of the material only once. Sew, making the needle stitch off the

4~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~7

material to the right, close to the edge. It is not necessary to cut away the edges of the scallops after sewing, as is usually the case, Tray-cloths, table sets and tablecloths, frills on blouses and at openings will all look particularly good with this scalloped edge.

fig. 75

4~ cS3j2 and]13 Braid is easy to put on and looks attractive on curtains, cushions or national costume blouses. Sew the braid on both sides with straight stitches. Then use the edging stitch along each side and sew two rows of decorative stitches back to back down the middle.
Pages 35 to 38 deal mainly with additional sewing which can be done with interchangeable single Elna-discs on Elna machines ST - SU

Twin needle 2,7 or 2 mm, and embroidery or a finer,thread. It is possible to use a thicker lower thread to increase the shadow effect. Fold down the edge of the material and sew. Cut away the excess material.

Shadow-Appliqu6 Stitch

tim.,A

fig. 83

Twin needle. Double with the same material, Sew, Cut away the excess material

Tacking - fig. 84

Q 14 A4

0n 1-4

Use tacking or sewing thread. With the needle plate for tacking (see extra accessories, pages 54-57), it is possible to tack with the machine. This will be found to be especially useful for larger sewing jobs. You can adjust the stitch length for stitches up to 24 mm (an inch) long, which can easily be removed after having done the actual sewing.
Decorative Outline Sewing (Saddle Stitch) -fig. 85
With the same special needle plate as for tacking, you can do attractive outline sewing. Wind cordonnet thread onto the spool. If necessary, increase the upper tension. The same cordonnet thread is also used as upper thread. The advantage is that the outline stitching comes out clearly on both sides of the garment. N.B. This stitch can also be sewn with an Elna ZZ or an Elna SP.

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Pages 39 to 49 deal mainly with additional sewing done with the interchangeable double Elna-disos on Elna SU.
Overlock Sewing - with simultaneous
straight stitching and overcasting

- fig. 86

or F 5P A Q149 2-4
Elna-disc 149 makes it possible to sew and overcast at the same time. The stitching remains supple and easy to stretch. It is suitable for dressmaking and especially for sewing stretch fabrics, fine jersey fabrics, underwear, night dresses, hems, sewing on elastic, etc. - Fig. 87 For assembling shirts and blouses, sewing up sleeves, shoulders or side-seams, sewing up the legs of pyjamas or track-suits, dressing-gowns, underwear, etc. either make the needle stitch just off the edge of the material to the right or slightly inside the edge. In the latter case, cut away the excess material afterwards. The method used will depend on the type of material. First do a trial run with a double piece of material under the presser foot before sewing the actual garment. The overlock stitch makes it possible to avoid flat or felled seams. It is durable and quicker to sew,

Elastic Overlock Buttonhole - fig. 95-96

,g , A

Decenter the needle to the left. This buttonhole is stretchable and will be highly appreciated for jersey fabrics. Use embroidery thread. Set stitch length at A. Make a trial buttonhole on a spare piece of material before sewing the actual buttonhole. Proceed as for an ordinary buttonhole for the bar-tacks, set the stitch length at ' 0 - and the stitch width at 4. Sew 4 or 5 stitches. Then return to stitch width 2 and stitch length "A -for the other side.

9b~~~~~~~9 96

Overlock Buttonhole for Looselyknitted Jersey - fig. 97-98
Decenter the needle to the left. Proceed as above but also place a thread of pearl cotton or wool flat under the foot in the groove at the left. When the buttonhole is finished, pull this thread and finish off with a hand-needle. The buttonhole will retain its shape even after washing.
Sewing with the Superstretch Stitch
,25 A Q 152 M 4 ( A The superstretch stitch sews and overcasts in a single operation. It is suitable for stretch fabrics, wool or cotton jersey and loosely machine-knitted materials. It prevents the material from losing its shape. It can be used for assembling all kinds of garments, for sewing sleeves, shoulders and side-seams, and for finishing, overcasting, etc. It can be sewn either at the edge of the material, as shown in the illustration, or slightly in from the edge, in which case the excess material is cut away afterwards. The method you use will depend on the quality of the material. Make a test on a spare piece of material before doing the final sewing.

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Covering an Elastic

fig. 99-100

I, f4 A Q152IA Eaicatthe edge of necklines, in shoulder-straps, around arhlsor the legs of bathing suits or sportwear are covered Paeteelastic flat on the wrong side of the material and sew owihthe overcasting stitch (a~~4). Fold the elastic down (on the wrong side) and sew finally on the right side wihthe superstretch stitch 152). The stitching is at the same time stretchable, hard-wearing and extremely decorative.
Sewing on Borders, Stand-u p Collars, Cuffs. in Jersey or Knitted Fabrics

and 0 152

(CA These can be sewn according to the instructions on page 29, but with the superstretch stitch (101 152) the stretch stitching will be even better finished. If you would like thinner seams or a more neatly finished look, proceed as follows. -fig. 101 Place the right side of the border against the right side of the material, just inside the edge, and sew

103 104

with a triple seam (Elna-dis 149, stitch width 0, stitch length A) - fig. 102 Open out the seam as illustrated, - fig. 103 Fold over the side that has not been sewn and sew it to the open seam of the garment with superstretch stitch 0 152. stitch width 4. stitch length A. -fig. 104 Fold out the border and iron with a damp cloth. N.B.: For stand-up collars and for cuffs, the circumference should first be closed with a tripie seam,

Hemstitching

True hemstitching can be sewn automatically with the Elna SU. Take a large needle, size 100 to 120, and fine darning thread. Linen and well-dressed fabrics can be sewn as they are. For very fine materials like organza and organdy, reduce the stitch width, if necessary. Depending on the type of hemstitch, the needle may sew as many as 9 times in the same hole. It is therefore essential to adjust the stitch length in accordance with the quality of material and thread, turning the stitch tuner to between A + and A -. Make a test before starting the actual work
Turkish Hemstitching - fig. 105-106 rx A G X 2-3 X A
Fig. 106. Just like artistic embroidery. Sew first and then draw the threads.
* Point do Paris - fig. 107
,g GE. A X4 A Needle 80-100 For fine embroidery on dress bodices; for all kinds of applique work; for sewing on lace; for fringes, etc.
Stars and Venetian Hemstitch - fig. 108.IF A 0142 gj34 A
The stars can be embroidered on dresses or other garments, used as an edging for braid or combined with hemstitching.
* Venetian Hemstitch - fig. 108
r A Q -4 * These Elna-discs are available as extras. o A

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Embroidery with Metallic Thread

- fig. 109-110

as required A huge range of possibilities is opened up for machine embroidery by the use of gold, silver or coloured metallic threads such as Lurex. Wind the metallic thread onto the bobbin, place it in the rotary hook and set the lower tension to between 0 and 'h. Choose an upper thread of the same colour as the material or of a colour similar to that of the metallic thread, depending on the effect you wish to obtain. Sew with the material the wrong side up. so that the metallic thread makes the designs on the right side. If the material is too soft, draw the designs on a piece of paper and place it on the wrong side of the material just under the
foot. Sew by following the drawing and tear off the paper afterwards, Really spectacular effects can be obtained by using shimmering, sparkling metallic thread for tablecloths, evening and cocktail dresses. national costumes. etc. Press with a very cool iron. Be very careful when washing: use cold water and do not rub or use chemicals,

Combining Decorative Stitches
There are unlimited and fantastic possibilities for combining and arranging different stitches. Avoid placing stitches that 'clash -side by side. First make a trial. Star by sewing stitches with a straight edge side by side Once you get more expert you will be able to combine other stitch patterns, for example by counting the stitches to make attractive designs.

fig. ill

as required
Embroidery with Wool or Pearl Cotton - fig. 112
as required Excellent effects can be obtained by using wool for decorative stitching on jersey dress fabrics and even on other textiles. Wind the wool onto the bobbin (if you plan to do a lot of embroidery, wind several bobbins before you start). Place the

112 Seth

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112.5='' '

bobbin in the hook. Set the lower tension at a position between 0 and y. The upper tension may be between 7 and 9-but make a trial run first. Select an Elna-disc. Place the work with the wrong side up, so that the wool is applied on the right side. The choice of colours is obviously extremely important. Embroidery done in this way is most attractive. If necessary, you can draw the design to be embroidered on a piece of paper and place it on the wrong sde of the work (lust under the foot), Sew by following the drawing and tear off the paper afterwards.
Sewing Net Curtains - fig. 113-117
As described on page 9. it may be a good thing to reduce the upper tension (if necessary) and guide the curtain, holding it both in front of and behind the foot, to make it easier to follow the straight. For the hems of the two long sides, you may, if you like, use straight stitches with a medium stitch length. For assembling, it is preferable to use the zigzag stitch, or better still, the multistretch stitch (Q,1or 5) or picot stitch (tJm146).
Joining Curtains in the Middle - fig. 113

_S or a3A

Sew 1cm ('Y in.) from the edge. Then cut flush with the seam. The join will be strong and almost invisible. Satisfactory results can also be obtained with the zigzag or multistretch stitch (GAN 1).

Hems - fig. 114 'j nNg

Net curtains are usually sold finished off at the bottom with attractive designs and with a lead wire to ensure that they hang well. If this is not the case, make a hem. Fold twice to the full width of the fold about 15 cm (6 in.). Sew the hem with a zigzag stitch.
Gathering or Pleating Curtains
Here we describe three different methods, but of course there are many more. - Fig. 115: Curtains Gathered with Rufflette Tape. This is tape which is usually made with loops for hooks and with one or more cords threaded through it. Place the Rufflette at the top of the curtain, edge on edge, on the right side of the curtain. Sew and then fold the Rufflette down flat on the wrong side of the curtain. Sew the second seam. All you have to do now is pull the cords and distribute the gathers as required. The same type of gathering can be used for heavy curtains and pelmets. - Fig. 116: Traditional 3-fold " Pinch ". After sewing a hem at the top about 4 in. wide, fold twice to make attractive and traditional ' Pinch ' pieats. Sew a few stitches at the base to keep it in place, - Fig. 11 7: Fluted Pleats These make the curtain hang extremely well. Make the hem as described below. Fold as shown in the illustration and sew the pleat in place at the base.

Straight or zigzag stitch or even edging or overlock stitch. Some plastic materials may tend to stick to the sole of the foot. The rollers avoid friction and the plastic can be sewn evenly without being held back. Choose the stitch most suitable for the work; the most usual ones are those mentioned above. N.B.: The roller foot is also extremely useful for sewing leather, imitation leather and some jersey dress fabrics and synthetic materials.
Quilting. Quilting Foot with Guide - fig. 204

3S1 [Q2-4

tk32-3

CZ 2-4

You can use a straight or zigzag stitch for quilting. Adjust the stitch width and length as required. Always begin in the middle of the work. Sew the first row of stitches and adjust the guide to the desired distance between the rows (to do so, loosen the screw on the guide and then tighten it again). The guide should not press on the material for it will prevent it from sliding smoothly. Sew first one side of the work and then the other, starting from the center and working towards the edge. This is because the layers of padding tend to shift and the edges may have to be evened afterwards. So always allow a little extra material.

CZZ-SP-ST S

Extra Accessories
The following is a complete list of the extra accessories that are available as this Sewing Guide goes to press-including those already described on previous pages.
Electronic Foot Control - 199
If the control is marked " electronic ", it has a small switch as shown opposite. This gives the machine two different ranges of sewing speeds: - fast speeds: with the switch at 4 a - slow speeds: with the switch at -

Button Foot - 200

For buttons, hooks and buckles.

Darning Plate - 224

For particularly fine darning.
Button Foot with Adjustable Guide - 202
For sewing buttons with stems on woollens, heavy materials, etc.
Quilting Foot with Guide - 204
For sewing at regular intervals (quilting), for guiding the edges of materials and for covering cord - illustrated page 53.

For tidy arrangement of threads, spools. bobbins, needles, etc

Elna-disc Case - 221

Holds ten discs and makes selecting them easier.
Circular Sewing Device - 222
For decorations, large scallops, various combinations, etc.

Monogram Device - 226

For embroidering perfect monograms, on sheets, towels, tablecloths, serviettes. etc.

Dust Cover - 227

not illustrated. Useful lon protecting the machine when taking a shot bherak from sewmy,

Needle plate

Depending nn the country, the needle plate has the guiding lines marked in eighths of an inch (3-4-5-6) or in millimeters (10 -15-20).

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Adjustments Applique Work Borders Braid Break-downs (see Instruction Booklet) Buttonholes: elastic overlock in jersey in knitted fabrics reinforced repairing Buttons Combining Decorative Stitches Curtains (net) Darning: automatic edges embroidery, shaded or needle painting instant with fine wool Decoration
2-29, 31, 41, 44 34, 9, 48-21-21, 34-37, 45-47, 51

woollens

Edge on Edge (sewing) 30 Edges: knitted 41 of handkerchiefs, scarves 31 scalloped (collars, cuffs and children's clothes) 31 Edge to Edge (sewing) 25 Edging (stitch) 32 Edgings (sewing of) 29, 44 Elastic 8, 11-12, 15, 26, 29.40, 43 Embroidery 18-21, 34-37, 45-Extra Accessories 52-57 Fagoting Foot: blind stitch gathering quilting with guide roller zipper (see also special accessories) Fringes Gathering Grogram Hems: invisible jersey net curtains Henistitching Hemstitching : Entre-deux Turkish Instant Darning 10-53 10-11 54-6, 8-16, 26-27, 32, 48-25

EC-ZZ SP-ST*SU

Jersey Knitted Fabrics (sewing of) Lace Leather (imitation leather) Monograms Multistretch stitch Needles Net Curtains Overcasting Overcasting: jersey multistretch overlock Painting (needle) Patching Reinforcements jersey Pearl Cotton (embroidery) Plastic (sewing of) (Vinyl) Point de Paris Quilting
14-15, 24-26, 28-29, 32-33, 39, 41-44 28. 41-44, 30, 40, 53 18-19, 36 28-31 2-3 9, 48-49 12,23 14-13-24 30.40 15, 30, 40, 18 34-35, (37 *) 25 29,28-31 9, 48-49 39-42 30.6-41 12-37 16, 27, 33 15, 50 45
Reinforcements (imitation leather, jersey, leather, plastic) Repairing Buttonholes Satin Stitch Scallops (large ) Scallops (scalloped edges) Sewing: decorative (see embroidery) edge on edge edge to edge edgings jersey (see jersey) jersey stretch fabrics (see jersey) knitted fabrics multistretch net curtains overlock plastic, leather straight stretch fabrics (see stretch) stretch towelling fabrics triple elastic zigzag Shadow tucks Shadow Appliqub Stitch Shell stitch Socks Stars
Stitch: blind 16. 26-27, 52 edging 32 elastic blind 32 elastic shell 33 multistretch 28 overcasting 23 overlock 39-42 Point de Paris (hemstitching) 45 saddle 38 satin 18 shading 37 shell 16, 27, 33 straight 6-7 supenstretch 43 tapered satin 19 triple (elastic) 41 Venetian (hemstitching) 45 zigzag 12-22 Stretch (fabrics) 14-15, 24-26, 28-30, 39-44 Superstretch (stitch) 43, 44